Audio Control Architect 110 Assembly instructions

Architect
Model 110
Model 210
Model 210ES
Two Channel Power Amplifier
High Current Design • Sound Optimization
Superior Energy Efficiency
Professional Installer’s
Consciousness Guide
22410 70th Avenue West
Seattle, WA 98043 USA
425-775-8461 • Fax [phone]
www.audiocontrol.com
®
For Those Who Consider Perfection Possible®
©2011. All rights reserved.
™

®
Important Information
Dealer Name _____________________________________
Date Installed __________________________________
Serial Number ___________________________________

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Table of Contents
Architect Model 110 / 210 / 210ES
Architect Product Highlights .......................... 2
Experienced Installer’s Quick Hook-Up Guide ........... 4
A Guided Tour Of the Architect Model 210/110........... 5
Hooking Up Your System ............................. 8
Installation: The Long Version ........................ 8
Remote Power Control............................ 9
Audio Hook-Up ................................ 10
Speaker Wire Hook-Up .......................... 11
Equalizing The System .............................. 12
A Short Introduction To Equalizers And Acoustics....... 13
Audio Analysis Using Pink Noise ..................... 14
Equalization Controls ............................... 15
Troubleshooting .................................... 17
Appendix A - Bridging the Architect................... 18
Appendix B - Understanding the Front Panel LEDs...... 19
A Brazen Plug For Other AudioControl Products . . . . . . . . 20
The Warranty ...................................... 21
Block Diagram ..................................... 22
Specifications ...................................... 23
Table of Contents

®
Architect Model 210
Architect Model 110
Architect
Model 210ES
Model 210
Model 110
™
Architect Model 210ES

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Introduction
1
Introduction
Congratulations!
You are now installing an AudioControl Architect ampli-
fier, a component that will dramatically improve the perfor-
mance of any distributed audio system, especially those uti-
lizing in-wall speakers. The Architect Model 110, Model 210
and Model 210ES are American-designed and manufactured,
“set and forget” components which will provide a lifetime of
trouble-free service for your multi-room audio system. Ad-
ditionally this amplifier is highly efficient meaning that it
draws very little wall current making it ideal for projects that
require “GREEN” audio components.
The Architect Model 110, Model 210 and Model 210ES
are designed and manufactured in the USA by AudioControl.
A company whose professional sound division designed and
sold the most popular one-third octave real time analyzer
in the world, the SA-3050. AudioControl’s passion for high
quality, meticulous attention to detail and pro sound heri-
tage shows itself in the dozens of awards we have won for our
designs, products and service. Now, as when we began, our
greatest satisfaction is our reputation for sonic excellence and
reliability among people just like you throughout the world.
This manual is designed to help you get everything you
can out of your new amplifier. So, even though you’re dying to
see it in action, please take a few minutes to slog through our
not-so-weighty prose and learn how to get the most from the
Architect power amplifier. Anything as capable as this amp
deserves all the explanation it can get.
AudioControl SA-3052 with CEDIA Hall of Fame
award.

®
Great Features
2
Great Features of the Architect Amplifiers
HigH Current Design toDrive Multiple speakers
Distributed audio systems can place terrific demands on
power amplifiers. Lots of speakers and volume controls add
up to extremely complex loads that can drive most amps to
the point of smoking. The high current drive capabilities of
this Architect amplifier allows it to play into very low imped-
ances (2 ohms) meaning it can play eight pairs of speakers
simultaneously. This amp loves lots of speakers so go ahead
and put a small quarry of stereo rocks by the patio. Then sit
back and enjoy the sound.
superior energy effiCienCy AudioControl Architect am-
plifiers are designed to provide audio enthusiasts with lots of
power and great sound quality. Architect amplifiers are also
great for those of us who want to “save the environment” and
“go GREEN” as they very energy efficient. The literally sip
electrical power making them ideal for any distributed audio
application.
speCially-DesigneD frequenCy Controls The Architect
Model 210 and Model 210ES are intended to provide a dra-
matic sound improvement for “small” speakers, such as those
with 6-inch and 8-inch woofers. The Architect’s equalization
band centers were chosen to optimize in-wall and 2-way book-
shelf speakers at critical frequencies, where adjustment is
most advantageous. The bandwidths (or ‘Q’ as our engineer-
ing types call it) have also been optimized for the difficulties
that in-wall speakers present. This allows the Architect Model
210 and Model 210ES to improve the sound of these smaller
speakers better than any other equalizer.
proteCtion WHen you neeD itMost The Architect
Model 110, Model 210 and Model 210ES have been de-
signed and manufactured with durability in mind. The
AudioControl Lightdrive protection circuitry defends the
Architect and your speakers against clipping, distortion, dam-
age, and even teenage parties. Even if the party lasts all week-
end. Each channel is independently protected so a problem in
one channel will not affect the rest of the system.
Typical Amplier
AudioControl Architect Amplier

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
3
arCHiteCt MoDel 210es – energy star CertifieD
AudioControl factories are located in the rainforests of the
Pacific Northwest, so we have long been know for designing
“green” amplifiers that are stingy on power consumption. For
clients that are looking for extremely low power consump-
tion, when their distributed audio systems are not in use,
AudioControl offers the Architect Model 210ES. This unique
model includes a patent pending circuit that allows the Mod-
el 210ES to meet the stringent Energy Star 2 requirements.
If no audio signal is present for a brief period of time, the
Architect Model 210ES goes into a sleep mode where it draws
less than 1 watt of wall current. When the audio system starts
playing , the Architect Model 210ES powers back up .
pfM subsoniC filter The Architect Model 110, Model
210 and Model 210ES’s Programmable Frequency Match
(PFM) circuitry is a bass-blocking filter which protects small
speakers and improves their overall sound. The smaller
woofers found in most in-wall or bookshelf speakers cannot
repro-duce the bass of a larger speaker (the laws of physics
intervene). If called upon to reproduce a bass note that would
cause the speaker to move PAST it’s maximum cone travel,
damage can result - and even if the speaker isn’t damaged,
severe audible distortion does occur.
bulletproof reliability The Architect Model 110,
Model 210 and Model 210ES began their existence at the
AudioControl factory in Mountlake Terrace, Washington, a
few miles north of Seattle, USA. Here, we also build precision
test instruments, equalizers and analyzers and a totally awe-
some line of car stereo components. AudioControl started in
1977 and has won so many audio industry awards for design
and engineering excellence that our reception room wall is
starting to sag. But enough about us. Let’s start getting the
most from the audio system!
Great Features
Your Friends at AudioControl

®
4
Quick Hook-up
Guide Experienced Installer’s Quick
Hook-Up Guide
What follows are “Express” hook-up diagrams for profes-
sionals and experienced audio buffs.
1. Connect the Speaker and Audio Inputs. (Page 10)
The Architect is designed to drive multiple speakers down
to 2 ohm loads. To simplify connection, there are two sets of
speaker terminals in parallel. Remember to figure in both
sets of connections when calculating the total system speaker
impedance.
2. Connect the AC power. (Page 9) Start with the
GROUND LIFT switch in the GROUND position. If you
have a ground loop hum, try the other two positions. This
switch only isolates the audio ground from the earth ground.
The chassis is always connected to earth ground.
3. Signal Sense and Remote Turn-On. This Architect
amplifier is equipped with a Signal Sensing circuit on the
inputs that will turn the unit on as soon as it sees an audio
signal. We have also equipped this unit with an optional 12V-
trigger input that can be used to remotely turn the Architect
On and Off, should this function be needed.
4. Set the Equalization (Model 210,
Model 210ES). (Page 15) While it can
be set by ear, adjustment of the Ar-
chitect Model 210’s speaker optimizer
controls is best done with a one-third
octave real time analyzer and pink
noise test signal.
5. Register Your Warranty To acti-
vate your warranty, go on-line to
www.audiocontrolregistration.
com and fill out the requested
information. Also, save your
invoice or sales slip as proof of
purchase. Not only is this neces-
sary for warranty purposes, it’s
also important if the unforeseen
disappearance of your Architect
amplifier occurs.
Four Zone System with
Volume Controls
Architect Model 210ES

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
5
A Guided Tour Of
Architect Model 210ES, Model 210 and Model 110
Front Panel
Power LED - Nothing too tricky here...when
you have the Master Power switch on the
back panel turned on, this LED will initially
turn Red and then Blue, indicating that all
systems are go. If the light stays Red, the
Architect is in a sleep mode
Protection LED - This LED has three faces.
In normal operation it glows Blue when mu-
sic is playing. If the Protection LED turns
Red, then one of the internal protection
circuits have come into use. No LED means
the unit is off or in a sleep mode.
Channel Status LED - This dual-color LED
serves two purposes. It illuminates Blue
when the corresponding channel is active
and everything is operating correctly. The
second function of the status LED is to turn
Red if something has caused the amplifier to
go into protection or it is operting at a very
high temperature.
Speaker Equalization controls
Model 210 and Model 210ES - This array
of knobs provide up to 12dB cut or boost at
45Hz, 150Hz, 300Hz, 700Hz, 2500Hz and
12KHz. After initial adjustment the only
time you would change the control settings
are 1) if you connect different speakers into
the system, 2) if you physically move them
significantly, or if 3) your room acoustics
change through addition or rearrangement
of furniture, wall or floor coverings, large
hairy dogs, etc.
  
Guided Tour
  
For more information on the LED
functions, see Appendix B on page 19.

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6
Guided Tour
Rear Panel
Remote Power Control – This mono 1/8”
jack allows you to remotely turn the Ar-
chitect ON and OFF by applying a 12-volt
trigger, should your system design require
this. Do not plug head-phones in this
jack!! You do not have to normally use
this trigger since the Architect is equipped
with Signal Sensing inputs. The amplifier
will turn on once an audio signal is pres-
ent on the RCA inputs and the LED will
turn on.
Main Inputs – These RCA inputs connect
to your preamplifier’s outputs. Any stan-
dard line level audio signal can be con-
nected to these inputs.
Main Outputs – These unbalanced RCA
outputs send a buffered audio output to
daisy-chain multiple Architect amplifiers
together.
Auxiliary Input – This input allows you
to feed a secondary audio source into your
Architect amplifier like the signals from
a bedroom TV, portable audio player, or
such. This input is triggered On by ap-
plying 12-volts to the 1/8” Auxiliary Input
Trigger.
Auxiliary Input Trigger – Hopefully you
read the previous sentence to know what
this 1/8” connector does.
Auxiliary Input Active LED – This LED
turns Red when you apply +12 volts to the
Aux 12V Trigger Input.
Signal Present – When an audio signal is
present on the Main or Auxiliary inputs,
this LED will light.
Input Level Controls – This screwdriver
adjustment controls the input sensitivity
of the Architect amplifier. The sensitivity
is variable from 0 -1 volt. A safe setting is
with the slot at 12 o’clock.
Mono/Stereo – Pushing in this button will
sum the left and right audio stereo inputs
into a Mono signal. This is particularly
useful when bridging the Architect. See
page 19 for more information. The Red
LED indicator above the switch will light
when this active.
Speaker Outputs –These terminal blocks
are designed to make an installer smile.
You can unplug the blocks and connect all
of the speaker wires to them without bal-
ancing the Architect on your lap. This also


    

Architect Model 110 / 210ES Rear Panel

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Guided Tour
16
7
makes it very simple to pre-wire a system
without ever taking the Architect out to
the installation site. The two output blocks
are paralleled to simplify connection to
multiple speakers. The speaker connector
blocks will accept up to 12 AWG wire.
Optional 5-way Binding Posts – Available
as an option for installers that prefer this
type of speaker connection (The Architect
Model 115 and Model 215).
Ground Lift Switch –This switch selects
the level of isolation between the audio
signal ground and your AC earth ground.
In normal operation this switch should be
in the Ground position, but if you run into
trouble with an AC ground hum, try the
other two settings for the best operation.
For your safety, the chassis is always con-
nected to the earth ground regardless of
the switch setting.
AC Power Fuse –The Architect is de-
signed with several layers of protection
circuitry. This power fuse is here just in
case something really awful goes wrong.
Master Power Switch –This switch shuts
off the main AC power. Normally the only
time you need to turn the master power
switch off is if the system is going to be
shut down for an extended period of time.
Power Cord –The Architect draws ap-
proximately 550 watts at full power. Make
certain that it is plugged directly into the
wall outlet or a power strip with sufficient
power rating. Since the Architect has
remote power switching, you can plug the
unit into an outlet that is always active.
Signal Present LEDs – These ultra-con-
venient LED’s light up when there is an
audio signal present at the outputs of your
Architect amplifier. If there is still no mu-
sic playing than you need to troubleshoot
the wiring that comes after the Architect.
PFM Highpass Filter (Internal Setting)
This Architect amplifier is internally
equipped with AudioControl’s unique
PFM subsonic filter circuit. This bass
blocking filter sets the low frequency
cut-off point of the Architect. The PFM
features an 18dB per octave slope at 35Hz
that can be bypassed internally. Contact
us for details as this is done internally.
15
14
13
12
11
15
12
11 14 13
Architect Model 110 / 210ES Rear Panel
16
Optional

®
Hooking Up Your
System
8
Hooking Up Your Architect
Amplifier
What you’ll need:
1. The Architect Model 110, Model 210 or Model 210ES.
2. RCA audio hook-up cables.
3. Plenty of speaker wire to reach all of your speakers.
4. Source unit(s) such as multi-zone controller, receiver, or
preamplifier.
5. Although you can set the speaker optimization controls by
ear, a real-time audio analyzer such as the AudioControl
Industrial SA-3052 is very helpful.
6. (Optional) A balanced line driver if you are going to mount
the Architect more than 20 feet from the pre-amp.
Installation: The Long Version
What follows is a step-by-step guide to integrating the
Architect Model 110/210/210ES into your multi-zone system.
If it seems overly detailed, please forgive us. We would rather
tell you too much than too little.
First, check your new Architect for any shipping damage.
We pack ‘em pretty securely, but it’s a vicious world out there
and anything can happen twixt Mountlake Terrace, Washing-
ton and your installation.
Placement
The Architect Model 110/210/210ES is a very efficient
amplifier, but it does need some breathing room to operate
properly. Make certain that the air vents on the top of the
Architect are not blocked and have at least 1/2” of air space.
Also make certain that heat sensitive components such as
DVD players, media servers, or cable boxes are not placed di-
rectly on top of the Architect. Just as a reminder, you should
avoid putting any leaky potted plants or sticks of butter on
the audio equipment stack.
AudioControl Maestro M4 Processor
with 2nd and 3rd zone audio outputs

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Warning - Always
connect the safety earth
ground. If you have
an AC hum problem,
use the ground lift
switch
Installation: The
Long Version
9
A benefit of having remote power control on the Architect
is that you can install it in another area of the house (such as
a basement or utility room) away from the main component
stack. Make certain that you use a good quality audio line
driver (such as ones from AudioControl) to extend the RCA
cables if you choose this type of in-stallation.
Power
Under normal operating conditions, the Architect Model
110/210/210ES can draw up to 550 watts of AC power. Don’t
plug it into a switched outlet on your system unless you are
certain that it can handle the power rating. Also, don’t cut
off the ground pin on the power connector. It is an important
safety feature. If you need to plug it into a two-prong outlet,
use a ground adapter (and connect the ground on it).
Remote Power Control
The Architect has three levels of power control:
1. Main AC Power Switch - This is the master control
and must be turned ON for the Architect to function. When
the main power switch is On, the blue Power LED on the
front panel lights up. Normally the only time that you would
need to turn the AC power switch off is when the system is
going to be unused for an extended period.
2. Signal Sensing Inputs - This Architect amplifier is
equipped with a very responsive Signal Sensing circuit on the
inputs that will turn the unit on as soon as it sees an audio
signal on the RCA inputs. Please note that this circuit is by-
passed when using the 12-volt trigger.
3. Remote Power Control - Should your system design
require it, this mono 1/8” jack allows you to remotely turn the
Architect ON and OFF by applying a 12-volt trigger. If you
are using a 12-volt trigger to turn the Architect ON, then it
will ignore the Signal Sensing Inputs.
AudioControl BLD-10 / BLR-10

®
Installation: The
Long Version
10
Connecting the Audio
If you’re an installation veteran, this may seem repetitive,
but some things can never be repeated too many times (just
ask our Customer Support Department).
1. Turn ALL components OFF before making any connec-
tions.
2. When making connections, designate RED RCA plugs as
RIGHT and WHITE, BLACK, or GREY plugs as LEFT. In
fact, this is a good idea for ALL signal connections made
in your audio system. The key is consistency. Stick with the
same color-coding and you’ll reduce possible problems.
3. Whenever possible, keep power cords away from signal
cables to prevent induced hum. This is especially impor-
tant if you bundle the cables to keep the installation neat
looking.
4. Use quality interconnect cables.
5. If you need to run the RCA audio cables more than 20 feet
you should use a balanced line driver for the signals. This
will provide noise rejection against nasty things like hum,
spikes, local talk radio, etc. The AudioControl balanced
line driver components are an excellent way to send audio
over long distances with standard Cat-5 type wiring. Check
them out at www.audiocontrol.com.

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Installation: The
Long Version
11
Speaker Hook-up
The same rule applies to the speaker wires as the RCA con-
nections. Establish a standard connection color code and stick
with it. One conductor of the speaker wire is normally marked
by a different color (silver versus copper) or there is a ribbing
on one side. Typically this marked conductor is used for the
positive (+) speaker leads. Of course the really good wire has
Positive and Negative printed right onto the wire jacket.
The Architect Model 110, Model 210 and Model 210SE
are designed with lots of speakers in mind. To make this type
of speaker connection simpler, there are two separate output
connector blocks. These outputs are paralleled internally so
remember to calculate your speaker impedances accordingly.
Your choice of speaker wire gauge and the length of the
runs also affects the speaker impedance load presented to
the amplifiers. As you can see in this table, even fairly short
speaker runs can have a very significant resistance if you use a
smaller wire gauge. This can be a benefit if you paralleling lots
of speakers. The wire itself acts as an impedance limiter, since
the amplifier cannot see a speaker load lower than the resis-
tance of the wire. The downside of this resistance in the wire
is that you waste the total power available to the speakers. All
that resistance in the speaker wire will turn some of your amp
power into heat.
Speaker Wire Resistance
See the appendix for information about bridging the Archi-
tect into mono operation.
25’ 50’ 100’ 250’ 500’
24 GA 1.3 Ω2.6 Ω5.1 Ω12.8 Ω25.7 Ω
22 GA 0.8 Ω1.6 Ω3.24 Ω8.1 Ω16.0 Ω
20 GA 0.5 Ω1.0 Ω2.0 Ω5.0 Ω10.1 Ω
18 GA 0.3 Ω0.6 Ω1.28 Ω3.2 Ω6.4 Ω
16 GA 0.2 Ω.4 Ω0.8 Ω2.0 Ω4.0 Ω
14 GA 0.1 Ω.25 Ω0.5 Ω1.26 Ω2.5 Ω
12 GA 0.08 Ω.16 Ω0.32 Ω0.8 Ω1.6 Ω
Speaker Wire Resistance Wire Gauge versus Run Length
Congratulations! You’re done with the hook up. Now for
the details of operation...
Calculating Impedance
For three 8 ohm speakers wired in
parallel (pluses connected to pluses)
the impedance is
1/8 + 1/8 + 1/8 = 3/8
Then take the inverse or
8/3 = 2.66 ohms

®
Doing The Deed
12
Doing The Deed
Before proceeding on to setting up the Speaker Optimiza-
tion controls on the Architect, it’s a good idea to make sure
that you have everything connected and working properly.
1. Double-check all connections. Make certain that all of the
audio and speaker connections are firmly seated and tight-
ened down.
2. Turn on your audio system. The Power LED on the Archi-
tect should be BLUE, the Protection LED should be BLUE
and (unless you have defeated the Signal-Sense) the Chan-
nel Status LED’s should be BLUE, with audio present.
3. Start the audio source playing and send that signal to the
Architect (how you do this depends on your particular
multi-room system). The zone status LED should illumi-
nate RED then BLUE approximately one second after the
music begins.
4. Check each speaker output zone to ensure that each one
plays properly.
5. With all the speaker loads turned on, turn up the volume
and make certain that the channel status LEDs on the
Architect stay BLUE. If they slowly toggle between BLUE
and RED, then there is either a short in the speaker wir-
ing, or the combined speaker load is below 2 ohms.
6. Congratulations! You’re ready to go on to setting the
Speaker Optimization controls.

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
Introduction to
Equalizers and
Acoustics
13
A Short Introduction to
Equalizers and Acoustics
Magazine reviewers and audio system owners spend much
time critically appraising speaker and other stereo compo-
nents. Unfortunately, a phenomenon that has a very large
effect upon sound is not is easily judged or changed. That
effect is the ACOUSTICS of the environment in which you
are listening.
Room acoustics is a complicated subject about which
entire textbooks have been written. We simply want you to
be aware of a few basics that have a direct effect on real time
audio analysis.
Sounds is waves, as you probably learned in junior high
school. In a stereo system, these waves are created by the
speakers. Like waves in a pond created by a splash, sound
waves emanate from the transducers (drivers) in your speak-
ers and spread out into the room. If your room were infinitely
big, that’s all there would
be to it. But just as waves in
a pond reach the bank and
reflect back, sound waves
bounce off walls, ceilings,
and floors, reflecting, rein-
forcing and canceling each
other as shown in the figure
above. Since sound is energy,
the way it reflects depends
upon the angle of the sur-
face, the type of material and
the frequency of the sound
wave. Because your listen-
ing position is likely to be
towards the back of the Free
Field waves shown in the
diagram, you also get part of
the reflected Reverberant Field as well.
Now we add the next set of complications: Different fre-
quencies of sound have different wave-lengths (a function of
frequency and the speed of sound). Each frequency’s wave-
length contributes differently to the Free and Reverberant
Fields because they are different sizes. For example, a 32Hz
bass note has a wavelength of 35 FEET, while a 16,000Hz note
has a wavelength just under a tenth of an inch. Tiny treble
Room interaction

®
Audio Analysis Using
Pink Noise
14
waves can be caught and neutralized by draperies, carpeting,
upholstered furniture and gangs of indolent Persian cats...
while gigantic bass waves simply slosh back and forth in the
room.
Another set of variables is the shape and volume of your
listening room. Large rooms require more bass energy to
excite waves within them. Small rooms need less energy, but
reflect it differently. And then there’s the fact that most rooms
don’t have four walls anymore, but open into dining rooms,
lofts, cathedral ceilings, etc. All of this means that predicting
sound interaction patterns is very difficult due to the irregu-
larities of the room shape.
As you can see, room acoustics is an important but com-
plicated subject To learn more about room acoustics, get a
copy of AudioControl’s Technical Paper 107, “Small Room
Acoustics De-Mythologized”. You can download this paper
from www.audiocontrol.com. The overall point that we’re try-
ing to make is that the various rooms in your home function
as gigantic mechanical equalizers, boosting or cutting certain
frequencies depending on size, shape, volume, acoustic treat-
ment and the position of the speakers.
Audio Analysis Using Pink Noise
It may take several series of adjustments since there is
some interaction between each control. We have included
some sample settings and general descriptions of each con-
trol’s function further in this manual.
After initial adjustment the only time you would change
the control settings are 1) if you connect different speakers
into the system, 2) if (assuming the speakers aren’t built-in)
you move them significantly, such as from a bookshelf to floor
stands, or 3) if your room acoustics change through rear-
rangement of furniture, wall or floor coverings, large hairy
dogs, etc.
The following are examples of typical settings along
with short descriptions of each Architect Model 210 Speaker
Optimizer control. Naturally, the results of adjustments will
vary depending on the individual acoustic environment, the
type of speakers, and the personal preferences of the listener.
These recommendations are not concrete, they are simply
good starting points.
Example Settings

Architect
Model 110-Model 210-Model 210ES
Installer’s Guide
™
15
Equalization
Settings
More About AudioControl’s
Equalization Settings
Here is a brief introduction to each of the Speaker Opti-
mization control frequencies and what their affect on your
music is.
45Hz — Low bass. This is about the lowest frequency
which in-wall, extension and small book-shelf speakers can
achieve. Boosting it too far might cause problems, even
though the Architect Model 210’s PFM filter cuts frequencies
under 35Hz. But if your speakers can take it, a mild boost will
enhance bass instruments such as Fender bass, kick drum,
floor toms, timpani and double bass violas.
150Hz — High bass. There’s a lot of bass information at
this frequency. In fact, most modern music is mixed to en-
hance this area of the frequency spectrum. 150Hz also de-
termines the depth of male vocals and contains reverberant
information which contributes to the spaciousness of sound.
Boosting 150Hz can add “POW!” and impact to bass or it can
make the sound “bonky” and “boomy”. This is a critical ad-
justment with small or in-wall speakers. Experiment with it.
300Hz and 700Hz — High and low midrange. These
controls directly affect the sound of instruments and vocals.
These bands also determine the speaker’s presence (whether
the music sounds far away or close in). Small speakers often
produce too much midrange, so these controls are candidates
for being turned down slightly during your initial experimen-
tation. Definitely consider reducing 700Hz if you are only
using your extension speakers for background music.
2500Hz — Treble. Female vocals and the “edge” of in-
struments such as guitars, snare drums, saxes, violins, etc.
are found in this range. If accentuated too much (by boosting
this control) sounds in the 2500Hz range can seem harsh and
fatiguing to the ear due to excessive output by the speaker or
because of live, reflective room acoustics.
12kHz — High treble. The fine detail, texture and sheen
of music is found here. The breathiness of vocals, the “sheen”
of cymbals, the high overtones of piano and strings. Actually,
there’s audible music information up to 20,000Hz on some
CD’s and most adult’s hearing is still pretty good at 15,000Hz.
But we’ve chosen 12,000Hz because it provides more useful
control to compensate for room acoustics and common small-
speaker deficiencies.

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16
Programmable
Frequency Match
Filter The Truth about Bass and The
Programmable Frequency Match
Filter
Now that digital audio is the favorite musical source,
there’s more low bass running around in a typical system.
Low bass injects large amounts of power into ANY kind of
speaker — up to 60% of your amplifier’s output is being used
to reproduce frequencies under 110Hz. That can really tax
a system, which is driving multiple speakers from a single
amplifier channel. The second problem is that bass produces
heat in the speaker. If more heat is built-up than the speaker
can dissipate, the driver coil can literally go into meltdown
(or worse).
In addition, ultra-low bass and small speakers don’t
always get along, ESPECIALLY when you DO have ample
power. The low bass music content can cause over-excursion:
The speaker cone attempts to travel farther than its physical
limits, potentially causing damage (in some cases you can
actually hear a clacking sound!). Even before destruction sets
in, there are other problems with feeding super-low bass to
small speakers. Most bookshelf and in-wall loudspeakers are
2-way systems. That means that the woofer also handles a
large part of the critical midrange area. When the woofer is
bashing around trying to reproduce unrealistically low bass,
its ability to produce midrange is compromised due to inter-
modulation distortion. So not only don’t you get low bass, you
get lousy vocal and instrumental reproduction.
Pragmatically, it boils down to this: If you want ultra-low,
foundation-shaking bass from an in-wall speaker, you should
add in a separate subwoofer, a somewhat expensive ap-
proach. A more economic approach is to equalize the speaker
for maximum low bass output WITHIN IT’S PRACTICAL
RANGE and eliminate lower frequencies which either can’t
be reproduced or which incite excessive cone travel.
The equalization part is handled by the Architect Model
210’s 45Hz control. The prevention part is handled by the
Architect’s Programmable Frequency Match (PFM) filter
circuitry. While it may seem surprising, actually cutting off
some of the lowest bass, will make the bass sound cleaner,
punchier and even louder.