Empisal S4D User manual

MODEL: S4D
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
EMPISAL COMPLETE FREE ARM OVER LOCKER
your creative assistant

- 1 -
Safety instructions
Like any other electrical device, a overlock
machine can cause serious, even
life-threatening injuries.To avoid this, and in
order to work safely:
• Before initial use of your overlock machine,
read these operating instructions thoroughly.
• Keep the operating instructions in a suitable
place near the machine. When passing the
appliance on to others, always enclose the
operating instructions.
• Always disconnect the power supply when
leaving the machine unattended. This will
prevent the risk of accidents if the machine is
switched on accidentally.
• First pull the power plug before changing the
bulb or performing maintenance work on the
machine.
This will prevent possibly life-threatening
electric shocks.
• Do not remove the plug from the socket by
pulling on the cable. Always grip the plug and
not the cable when pulling out the power
plug.
• Only use the overlock machine in dry rooms.
• In case of any visible damage on the
machine, the foot switch or the power cable:
Have the damage repaired by Customer
Service before using the overlock machine
again.
• Never let children or elderly persons handle
the machine unsupervised because they may
not properly appreciate the possible dangers.
Keep electrical appliances outside the reach
of children.
• Never use the machine when the ventilation
apertures are blocked. Keep the ventilation
apertures of the machine and the foot switch
free from fluff, dust and waste material.
•This machine is not intended for use by
persons (including children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or
lack of experience and knowledge, unless
they have been given supervision or
instruction concerning use of the appliance
by a person responsible for their safety.
•Children should be supervised to ensure that
they do not play with the machine
Warning
against injuries and
material damages:
According to legislation, you as the user of an
electrical appliance are responsible for preventing
possible accidents through safety-conscious
behaviour:
• Keep your work space tidy. An untidy workplace
can lead to accidents.
• Provide adequate lightingwhen working!
• Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery,as these
can be caught in the moving parts. You should
also wear a hair net if you have long hair.
• Avoid abnormal posture. Remain steady and in
a well-balanced position at all times.
• Be alert! Pay attention to what you are doing.
Always take a rational approach to your work.
Never work with the overlock machine if you are
unable to concentrate or if you are feeling
unwell!
If accidents occur as a result of handling the
machine with insufficient care, or failure to follow
the safety instructions in this manual, then the
manufacturer cannot accept liability.
If the supply cord that fixed with foot controller is
damaged, it must be replaced by the
manufacturer or its service agent or a similar
qualified person in order to avoid a hazard.
Please use for your overlock machine the
ZHEJIANG FOUNDER presser foot, type
KD-2902.
Power rating: 220 - 230V ~ , 50Hz
Current rating: 1.0A
Protection Class : II

- 2 -
INTRODUCTION
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING OUR OVERLOCK MACHINE
This overlock machine can stitch dependable seams on all kinds of fabric, both light and heavy,
including cotton, wool, rayon, tricot, jersey, and knits.
You do not need a special table for this portable machine.
We suggest that you read this instruction manual carefully before you start to operate the machine.
FOR YOUR SAFETY
1. Keep your eyes on the needles when operating the overlock machine. Do not touch the
handwheel, the cutter or the needles when the machine is running.
2. Turn off the power switch, and pull out the plug from electric socket in the following cases:
＊When you have finished your sewing.
＊When you leave the serger temporarily.
＊When replacing the parts.
＊When cleaning and adjusting the machine.
BEFORE YOU USE
1. Wipe dust and oil off the machine to avoid any stains on the sewing materials.
2. Test sew by using the same sewing materials you intend to sew.
3. Read this instruction manual thoroughly before replacing the cutters and the needles. Follow the
instructions for correct replacements and adjustments.

- 3 -
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PARTS DIAGRAM..........................................................................................................................4-5
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE.....................................................................................................6-8
The position of thread pole..................................................................................................6
Cone holders .......................................................................................................................6
Spool caps...........................................................................................................................6
Connecting the foot control..................................................................................................7
Controlling sewing speed.....................................................................................................7
Safety switch........................................................................................................................7
Attaching the waste catcher.................................................................................................8
ACCESSORIES .................................................................................................................................8
USING THE MACHINE......................................................................................................................9
Hand wheel..........................................................................................................................9
Front cover...........................................................................................................................9
Free arm..............................................................................................................................9
LOOPER THREADING.................................................................................................................... 10
NEEDLE THREADING......................................................................................................................11
TRIAL SEWING................................................................................................................................ 12
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS............................................................................................. 13-14
Adjusting the needle thread tensions................................................................................. 14
Adjusting the looper thread tensions ................................................................................. 14
MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART .................................................................................................. 15
CHANGING THE THREAD.............................................................................................................. 16
BUILT-IN POCKET HANDLE ........................................................................................................... 16
ADJUSTMENT OF STITICH LENGTH............................................................................................. 17
Stitch length setting............................................................................................................ 17
CUTTING WIDTH ............................................................................................................................ 18
The proper cutting width .................................................................................................... 18
Adjust to a wider cutting width ........................................................................................... 18
Adjust to a narrower cutting width...................................................................................... 18
CHANGING THE NEEDLE .............................................................................................................. 19
REPLACING THE BULB.................................................................................................................. 19
REPLACING THE CUTTERS .......................................................................................................... 20
THREE THREAD NARROW AND WIDE OVERLOCK STITCH...................................................... 21
FREE ARM SEWING....................................................................................................................... 22
CONVERTIBLE PRESSER FOOT................................................................................................... 22
ROLLED AND NARROW EDGE................................................................................................. 23-24
Rolled edge........................................................................................................................ 23
Narrow edge...................................................................................................................... 23
Rolled hemming................................................................................................................. 24
Narrow hemming ............................................................................................................... 24
DIFFERENTIAL FEED................................................................................................................ 25-26
Differential feed mechanism .............................................................................................. 25
Adjusting the differential feed............................................................................................. 25
Wavy knits & Gathering ..................................................................................................... 26
Stretching to prevent puckering......................................................................................... 26
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE........................................................................................................ 27
CLEANING AND LUBRICATING...................................................................................................... 28
SPECIFICATION OF MACHINE ...................................................................................................... 28
EDU-SEW ................................................................................................................................... 31-34

- 4 -
PARTS DIAGRAM
1. Thread pole
2. Spool pin
3. Spool holder
4. Lower looper thread tension dial
5. Handwheel
6. Base
7. Machine socket
8. Power switch
9. Front cover
10. Support bed
11. Free arm
12. Needle plate
13. Upper looper thread tension dial
14. Left needle thread tension dial
15. Right needle thread tension dial
16. Thread guide plate
4
2
3
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
16
14
15
1

- 5 -
1. Upper looper
2. Lower looper
3. Free arm release lever
4. Free arm
5. Lower knife
6. Cutting width adjustment knob
7. Presser foot
8. Upper knife
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1

- 6 -
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE
Set your Overlock machine on a sturdy flat
surface.
[ THE POSITION OF THREAD POLE ]
Pull up thread pole to its highest point before
threading.
Turn the thread pole so the thread guides
come right above the spool pins.
[ CONE HOLDERS ]
Both industrial cones and domestic type thread
spools can be used on this machine.
For large diameter industrial cones use the
cone holders with the large end at the top.
For small diameter cones. use the same cone
holders with the small end at the top.
[ SPOOL CAPS ]
When using domestic type thread spools,
remove the spool holders and place spool
caps over the thread spools.
Normal
Positioning catches
Spool holder
Domestic type
thread spool
Spool cap
Notch

- 7 -
[ CONNECTING THE FOOT CONTROL ]
Push foot control plug into the machine socket and then into main socket.
Turn on the power switch. This power switch controls both the machine power and sewing light.
[ CONTROLLING SEWING SPEED ]
The foot control regulates the sewing speed.
The sewing speed can be adjusted by
increasing or decreasing the pressure on the
foot control.
[ SAFETY SWITCH ]
This machine is equipped with a micro safety
switch.
The machine is automatically cut off from the
electricity supply if either the free arm
or front cover is open.
Close both free arm and front cover before
you start sewing.
Foot control
Safety switch
Foot control
Power switch
Machine plug
Power supply plug
Power supply
Machine socket

- 8 -
[ ATTACHING THE WASTE CATCHER ]
The waste catcher catches the cut-off fabric as
you sew, keeping your working area clean.
Place the waste catcher between the machine
and table.
ACCESSORIES
Waste catcher
Tweezers
Spare upper cutter
Oiler
Needles
Machine cover
Screwdriver
Brush
Hexagon wrench key
Waste catcher
Instruction manual
Spool caps

- 9 -
USING THE MACHINE
[ HAND WHEEL ]
Always turn handwheel toward you, i.e. the
same direction as on a household sewing
machine.
[ FRONT COVER ]
To open front cover, slide the hollow to the
right as far as it will go then pull front cover
toward you.
The front cover won't close while the free arm
is open.
[ FREE ARM ]
Open the free arm for threading.
Open the front cover first.
While pushing the release lever, push the free
arm down ward with your left hand.
○
2
○
1
Free arm
release
lever
○
2
○
1

- 10 -
LOOPER THREADING
Warning: Before contriving please adjust main control switch to (O).
Correct threading is important otherwise uneven stitches or thread breakage may result.
A convenient threading chart is placed on the front panel inside the front cover.
In addition, each thread guide is colored for
threading indication.
To help in threading, tweezers can be found in
the accessory box.
Threading must be carried out in the following
sequence.
1. FIRST……...Upper looper
2. SECOND…..Lower looper
3. THIRD……...Right needle
4. FINALLY……Left needle
1. Open the front cover and free arm.
2. Turn the handwheel toward you until. the
looper comes to best position for threading.
3. Pass the upper looper thread and lower
looper thread as illustrated.
Important: The thread must lie correctly
between the two discs inside the tension
dials.
4. Pull out the thread end about 10 cm (4")
long from the looper eyes. Raise the presser
foot and place threads under it, then lower
the presser foot.
Upper looper thread Lower looper thread
○
2
2
○
1
1
Thread between two discs
4 ○
4
○
4
○
5
○
6
○
8
○
4
○
9
○
11
○
3
○
7
○
2
8
5
2
3
4
6
7
○
10
○
5
○
6
○
7
○
8
○
4
○
9
○
10
○
11
8
7
6
5
5
Lower looper
Upper looper

- 11 -
NEEDLE THREADING
5. Turn the handwheel toward you until
needles are fully raised.
6. Pass the right and left needle threads as
illustrated.
Important: The thread must lie correctly
between the two discs inside the tension
dials.
Pass through the needle eyes from front to
back as illustrated.
7. Pull out the thread end about 10 cm (4")
long from the needle eyes. Raise the
presser foot and place threads under it,
then lower the presser foot.
Left needle thread Right needle thread
○
1
1
○
2
2
○
8
○
4
○
9
8
7
○
6
5
4
6
○
4
○
7
○
5
○
4
○
5
○
8
○
4
○
9
○
3
○
7
○
2
8
5
2
3
4
6
7
6
○
6
Thread between two discs
3○
3

- 12 -
TRIAL SEWING
When the overlock has been threaded for the
first time or re-threaded because of thread
breakage during sewing, start sewing in the
following manner.
Holding the end of threads between your left
finger tips, turn the handwheel slowly toward
you two or three times and check the thread
chain.
Place fabric for trial sewing under the presser
foot and start sewing slowly.
The fabric will be automatically fed.
Guide the fabric as you serge.
When work is finished, continue sewing to
form about 5 cm (2") long thread chain from
the end of fabric.
Cut the threads with a scissor.
Cloth

- 13 -
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Thread tensions will vary according to the type and thickness of both thread and fabric.
Adjust the thread tension of the machine accordingly while checking the seam.
Thread tension: Turn dial toward smaller numbers, tension becomes loose.
Turn dial toward larger numbers, tension becomes tight.
B: Right needle thread
tension dial
D: Lower looper thread
tension dial
C: Upper looper thread
tension dial
A: Left needle thread
tension dial
Correct thread tension
Right needle thread
Left needle thread
Lower looper thread
Back side
Upper looper thread
6 mm (0.24”)

- 14 -
It is necessary to adjust the thread tension for the seams shown below.
[ ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS ]
[ ADJUSTING THE LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS ]
The left needle thread tension is too loose.
The right needle thread tension is too loose.
The lower looper thread is tight and/or
the upper looper thread is loose.
The upper looper thread is tight and/or
the lower looper thread is loose.
Loosen the lower looper thread tension
and/or tighten the upper looper thread
tension.
Loosen the upper looper thread tension
and/or tighten the lower looper thread
tension.
Tighten the left needle thread tension.
Tighten the right needle thread tension.
Back side
Front side
Back side
Front side
Front side
Front side
Back side
Back side

- 15 -
MACHINE ADJUSTMENT CHART
The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another.
The required tensions depend upon stiffness and thickness of fabric, thread size and type.
If necessary, readjust referring to the chart below.
Fabrics
Threads
Needle
Stitch length
Standard Setting
Light-weight
．Cotton
．Spun
polyester
．Polyester
continuous
No. 80 - 100
HA × 1
No. 11
130 / 705H
No. 80
2.0 - 3.5 mm
．Standard
2.5 mm
．Georgette
．Organdy
．Lawn
．Voile
．Crepe-de-chine
．Silk
etc.
Medium-weight
．Cotton
．Spun
polyester
．Polyester
continuous
No. 60 - 100
HA × 1
No.11-14
130 / 705H
No. 80 - 90
2.0 - 3.5 mm
．Standard
2.5 mm
．Cotton
．Poplin
．Gingham
．Corduroy
etc.
Heavy-weight
．Cotton
．Spun
polyester
．Polyester
continuous
No. 50 - 80
HA × 1
No.14
130 / 705H
No. 90
2.5 - 4.0 mm
．Standard
3.0 mm
．Denim
．Tweed
．Velour
etc.

- 16 -
CHANGING THE THREAD (TYING ON)
It is simple to change the thread in the following
manner.
Cut the thread above the spool pin, and knot
ends of old and new threads together.
Set the tension dials to "O" and raise the
presser foot.
Pull the other end of thread until knots come
under the presser foot. For needle threads, pull
the other ends of threads until knots come to
needle eyes and cut the threads at the both
sides of the knots. Then re-thread the needles.
BUILT-IN POCKET HANDLE
The Built in pocket handle is a convenient way
to carry your machine.
Pocket handle

- 17 -
ADJUSTMENT OF STITCH LENGTH
There are nine setting adjustments which can be made from 1.0 to 5.0 mm.
Most overlock work is done with a basic stitch length setting of 2.5-3.5 mm.
[ STITCH LENGTH SETTING ]
Stitches
Stitch length
Regular seaming
Narrow seaming
Rolled edging
Picot edging
2.0 - 5.0 mm
3.0 mm (Standard Setting)
1.0 - 2.0 mm
1.0 - 2.0 mm
3.0 - 4.0 mm
Stitch length
adjustment knob (lnner dial)

- 18 -
CUTTING WIDTH
The proper cutting width differs with the type of fabric. Check the seams each time, and adjust the
cutting width as follows.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needles are at the lowest position.
2. Open the front cover and free arm.
3. Turn the cutting width adjustment knob until the looper threads lie along the edge of the fabric.
Adjust to a narrower cutting width if the fabric edges curl when sewing. Turn the cutting width
adjustment knob to the right.
Adjust to a wider cutting width if the thread loops off the edge of the fabric. Turn the cutting width
adjustment knob to the left.
[ THE PROPER CUTTING WIDTH ]
[ ADJUST TO AWIDER CUTTING
WIDTH ]
Needle plate
Cutting width
adjustment knob
Wide
Narrow
Stitch width
Cutting width
Front side
[ ADJUST TO A NARROWER
CUTTING WIDTH ]
Front side
Front side
Threads looping
off edge of fabric
Stitch curling
edge of fabric

- 19 -
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Turn the power switch to "OFF" before
changing the needles.
Do not use any needle which is bent or blunt.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the
needles are fully raised.
2. Open the front cover and lower the presser
foot.
3. Using the hexagon wrench key from the
accessory box, loosen the needle clamp
screws and remove the needles. Upper left
screw for left needle and lower right screw
for right needle.
4. Insert the new needle with the flat side to the
back into the needle clamp, making sure it
is inserted as far up as possible. Tighten the
needle clamp screw firmly.
When the needles are set correctly, the left
needle is slightly higher than the right one.
If needles are not correctly inserted, skipped
stitches will result.
This machine is equipped with needle systems
H.A*1 (Needle are household type).
REPLACING THE BULB
Turn the power switch to "OFF" before replacing
the bulb.
1. Take the hole cap off by needle.
2. Loosen the screw until it is taken apart.
3. Pull the lamp cover off from the low part.
4. Push and twist and then remove the old
bulb.
5. Insert the new bulb and twist to its position.
Important:
This machine is designed to use 15 watt bulb.
The bulb is available from your local dealer.
Hexagon wrench key
Needle
(Use HA*1)
Machine front
Flat side to the back