Hangar 9 ULTRA aspire User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WE GET PEOPLE FLYING
TM
TM
Specifications:
Wingspan:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79"
Length: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45"
WingArea:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680 sq.in
Weight (Approx.): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36–48 oz.
2 meters
114 cm
4387 sq cm
1020–1360g
• 90% pre-built
• Pre-covered in Goldberg UltraCote®transparent blue and white covering
• Includes sailplane hardware package with adjustable tow hook
• Superb stability during“Hi-Start” launches

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Table of Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Notes & Warnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Additional Equipment Required. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Field Equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Optional Field Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Kit Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Section 1: Joining the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6–9
Section 2: Mounting the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Section 3: Installing the Tail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11–13
Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14–16
Section 5: Installing the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17–18
Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19–22
Section 7: Control Throw Recommendation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Section 8: Installing the Tow Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Section 9: Installing the Canopy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25–26
Section 10: Balancing the Aspire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Section 11: Thermal Soaring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28–29
Section 12: Pre-Flight Checks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Section 13: Test Glide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Section 14: Hangar 9 G-Force. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32–33
Section 15: In-Flight Adjustments for Performance and Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Pitch Attitude . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Minimum Sink Speed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Maximum Lift/Drag (L/D) Speed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Best Penetration Speed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Definitions. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
AMA Safety Code. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

3
Introduction
The Aspire has been designed to build quickly and easily, providing you with great looks and exceptional flying performance.
Entering the world of sailplanes is both extremely challenging and rewarding. It’s your skill and knowledge of the surrounding atmos-
phere combined with the design capabilities of your model that will result in your ability to defy the laws of gravity and produce
flights of unbelievable distance or duration. Under the proper conditions, it’s not unusual for flight times of up to an hour or more to
be obtained, limited only by the capacity of the receiver and transmitter batteries or your endurance.
Warning:
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio.
Pre-Assembly:
We strongly suggest that before you begin assembly of the kit, you read through this Instruction Manual so you can become familiar
with the parts and assembly sequence. Please assemble the kit according to the sequence provided in this Instruction Manual. Do
not attempt to modify or change the kit design as doing so could adversely affect the flying characteristics.
Seek Expert Assistance:
If you are new to R/C we suggest you find an experience pilot to check out your aircraft and help you with the first few flights. This
will help prevent damage to your model and will speed up the learning process. You can contact local R/C clubs or your hobby shop
to obtain the names of experienced R/C pilots who would be willing to help you with your first few flights.
Special Note:
Due to changes in weather, wrinkling of the covering can occur. This is the nature of the covering film of the model and can be easily
eliminated using a heat gun or sealing iron.
In Case of Wrinkle:
Carefully use a heat gun or sealing iron on the wrinkled area. Then rub the surface with a soft cloth until the surface is smooth again.
If you have any questions concerning the construction of the Aspire, please feel free to contact our Service Department at
the address below:
Horizon Hobby Distributors
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
217-355-9511
Visit our web site at www.horizonhobby.com
Thank you again for purchasing the Hangar 9 Aspire sailplane. We believe you will have many enjoyable hours of challenging and
rewarding flight.

4
Additional Equipment Required
Radio Equipment
2 channels (minimum)
2 standard servos
You will need at least a two channel radio control system with two servos on an aircraft frequency for use in your Aspire. A standard
radio system (4 channels with standard servos) will work fine. The standard size servos will fit into the fuselage of the Aspire.
Recommended JR Systems
JR F400EX
Field Equipment
JRPA003 Switch
JRPR600 Receiver
JRPB3150 Receiver Battery
JRPBS507 Servos
Hi-Start System
A Hi-Start launch is the most common method of launching gliders. The Aspire does not include a Hi-Start. We suggest the Hangar
9 “G-Force” Sailplane Launch System (HAN200 or HAN400), which includes a pre-assembled Hi-Start system. Hi-Start launches will
be discussed later in this instruction manual.
Sailplane Launch System
TM

5
Optional Field Equipment
Weight for balancing your Aspire:
You will need to balance your Aspire after you’ve completed assembly and have installed the receiver, battery and servos. Use of the
stick-on type of weights is recommended and can be obtained at your dealer. Before adding weight to the sailplane, try moving the
receiver battery pack to adjust the center of gravity (usually as far forward as possible).
Foam Rubber:
Also, it’s a good idea to use foam rubber (1/4” thick) to wrap your receiver and battery pack to give support and protection in hard
landings.
Tools, Supplies, and Adhesives Required (Not Included in Kit)
Tools & Supplies
• Medium grit sandpaper • Ruler
• Mixing sticks for epoxy • Felt tipped Pen
• Epoxy brush • Pencil
• Rubbing alcohol • Pliers
• Paper towels • Drill
• Hobby knife • Drill bit: 1/16”
• Wax paper • #64 rubber bands
• Small round file • 90° triangle
Adhesives
• 30-minute epoxy
• 6-minute epoxy
• Thin CA-glue
• Thick CA-glue
• CA debonder
• 1/2” masking tape

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Kit Contents
Other Parts
A. #64 rubber bands
B. Clevis – HAN1432
C. Clevis keeper
D. Control horn – HAN1432
E. Control horn plate – HAN1432
F. Wire snap keeper – HAN1432
G. Screws (8mm)
H. Nylon adjustable tow hook – HAN1433
I. Screws 4-40 x 12mm – HAN1433
J. 4-40 blind nuts – HAN1433
K. Washers – HAN1433
L. Wing hold down dowels
M. Plywood canopy supports – HAN1431
N. Small rubber band for canopy
O. Hardwood wing brace – HAN1427
P. 6” pushrod wire – HAN1430
Q. 12” pushrod wire – HAN1430
R. 16” hardwood pushrod – HAN1430
S. Heat shrink tubing – HAN1430
Note: Photo of product may vary slightly from contents in box.
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4
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2
6
H
G
E
F
K
J
I
M
O
Q
P
L
C
B
A
DN
SR
Main Parts
1. Left wing – HAN1427
2. Right wing – HAN1427
3. Vertical stabilizer/rudder – HAN1428

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Section 1: Joining the Wing
• Right wing panel
• Left wing panel
• Hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace)
• 30-minute epoxy • Ruler
• Rubbing alcohol • Pencil or felt tipped pen
• Paper towels • Mixing stick/epoxy brush
• Masking tape • Medium sandpaper
• Wax paper
Step 1. Locate the two wing panels and the hardwood wing
joiner. Using a pencil and ruler, measure and mark the center of
the “V” section of the hardwood wing joiner (dihedral brace).
This mark will serve as the centerline when joining the two wing
halves. Note that the outer wing panels have already been
attached at the correct polyhedral angle on each wing half.
Step 2. Trial fit the wing joiner (dihedral brace) into one of the
wing halves. It should insert smoothly up to the centerline
marked in Step 1. Now slide the other wing half onto the wing
joiner until the wing halves meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may
be necessary to lightly sand the wing joiner so the wing halves
fit together properly.
Step 3. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing
on a large, flat surface with one wing half resting on the surface.
The opposite wing half should be at 3 3/16” as measured where
the outer and inner wing panels meet on the wing half. See
picture below. If necessary, sand the wing joiner until this
is achieved.
Note: Before epoxying the wing halves together, it’s a good
idea to make a brace that can be placed under the
wing to hold it at the 3 3/16” dihedral angle while the
epoxy cures. It’s also a good idea to place wax paper
under the wing center so the epoxy does not adhere to
the work surface.
Step 4. Separate the wing halves and remove the wing joiner.
If you’re satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, you can
prepare to epoxy the two halves together.
Step 5. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. It’s
helpful to place wax paper under the wing to prevent epoxy from
dripping onto your workbench.
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

8
Section 1: Joining the Wing
Step 6. Place one wing half on a flat surface (remember the
wax paper under the wing). Use an epoxy brush to smear a
generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner cavity in the
wing half.
Step 7. Coat one half of the wing joiner with epoxy on both
sides, up to the line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of the
wing joiner — the “V” points to the top of the wing, or faces up
when the wing half is placed on the workbench topside up.
Install the epoxy-coated half of the wing joiner into the wing
joiner cavity of the wing panel, up to the centerline mark, making
sure the “V” of the hardwood wing joiner is orientated correctly
(see below). Any spilled epoxy can be cleaned up with rubbing
alcohol and paper towels. Allow the epoxy to cure before joining
the other wing half.
Note: You will need to mix up an additional ounce or so of
epoxy to complete the wing joining process.
Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner
cavity of the other wing half.
Step 9. Next, apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of
the hardwood wing joiner and uniformly coat both wing roots
with epoxy.
CONTINUED

Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and
firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.
Also, check to make sure the wing halves align properly. Wipe
any excess epoxy away with rubbing alcohol and paper towels.
Step 11. Masking tape can be applied to hold the wing halves
together while the epoxy cures. Place one wing half on a flat
surface and, using the template you made, prop up the other wing
half at the proper 3 3/16” dihedral from the flat surface. Use a mag-
azine or other material to weight the one wing half flat against
the workbench, making sure not to use something that will crush
the wing pannel. Check to make sure the dihedral is correct.
Apply more masking tape to make sure the wing halves stay
aligned and at the proper dihedral while the epoxy cures. Wipe
away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
Step 12. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before removing
the masking tape.
Note: If there are any gaps in the wing center section, they
can be filled with epoxy.
9
Section 1: Joining the Wing
CONTINUED

10
Step 1. Locate the four wing dowel holes in the fuselage.
Step 2. Locate the two wood dowels and trial fit them into the
fuselage.
Step 3. Position the dowels in the fuselage so an
equal amount projects from each side of the fuselage
(approximately 5/8”).
Step 4. Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and apply it to
the dowels at a position inside the fuselage. By moving the dow-
els back and forth slightly, the epoxy will be worked into the
holes in the fuselage, thus bonding the dowels securely to the
fuselage. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.
Step 5. Once the wing dowels are dry, trial fit the wing to the
fuselage by inserting the leading edge of the wing flush against
the former in front of the forward dowel and securing the wing to
the fuselage with two rubber bands. Position the trailing edge of
the wing in its relative position on the fuselage. It’s helpful to
mark the centerline of the fuselage on either side of the wing
opening in the fuselage and line up the wing center in reference
to the marks you made.
Section 2: Mounting the Wing
• Complete wing assembly
• Wing dowel rods (2)
• Fuselage
• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol
• 6-minute epoxy • Felt tip pen or pencil
• Paper towels • 90 degree triangle
• Masking tape • Measuring device ( )
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
36” ruler or
tape measure

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Section 3: Installing the Tail
• Fuselage
• Horizontal stabilizer with elevator
• Vertical stabilizer with rudder
• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol
• Ruler • Paper towels
• Felt tipped pen • Epoxy brush
• Masking tape • Mixing stick
• Pencil • Sanding stick (medium)
• 30-minute epoxy • 90-degree triangle
Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, a slot is cut for the
vertical stabilizer and a platform is provided for mounting the
horizontal stabilizer. You will need to also locate the pushrod
exit for the rudder, which is on the top left of the slot for the
vertical stabilizer. The covering may cover this opening. If so,
use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering over the
pushrod exit.
Step 2. We will mount the horizontal stabilizer first. Remove
the elevator; it will be reattached when you hinge the control
surfaces later. Note that the slot in the fuselage runs from the top
of the fuselage back into the balsa platform that doesn’t have any
covering applied. Trial fit the horizontal stabilizer to the platform
as shown, aligning the slot in the leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer to that in the fuselage top/platform as shown below.
Step 3. Holding the horizontal stabilizer in place, check to see
that the slots are aligned.
Step 4. With the fuselage, wing and horizontal stabilizer
resting on a flat surface, align the horizontal stabilizer by
measuring from fixed points on the wing to the outside of the
trailing edge tip of the horizontal stabilizer as shown in the
illustration. Be sure that the leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer stays aligned with the slot in the fuselage top.
Step 5. Use a felt tipped pen or pencil to mark the bottom of
the horizontal stabilizer where it comes into contact with the
sides of the fuselage. The mark will make a slight indentation in
the covering.
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

12
Section 3: Installing the Tail
Step 6. Remove the horizontal stabilizer and use a sharp
hobby knife to carefully cut away the covering approximately
1/16” inside the line marked on the horizontal stabilizer so that
bare wood will show. Caution: Do not cut into the balsa wood,
as this will weaken the structure.
Step 7. Use masking tape to temporarily attach the horizontal
stabilizer to the fuselage, making sure it is aligned with the slots
in the fuselage and no bare wood shows on the bottom.
Carefully slide the vertical stabilizer (with rudder still attached)
into position in the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. If the fit is
tight, use a sanding stick to remove some of the balsa, but be
careful not to overdo it. Align the vertical stabilizer so the rudder
(still attached) has a slight gap between it and the horizontal sta-
bilizer, as shown below.
Step 8. When you’re satisfied with the alignment, use a
pencil to mark the junction of the vertical stabilizer and fuselage
top. The mark should leave a slight indentation in the covering.
Remove the vertical stabilizer and horizontal stabilizer from the
fuselage. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut away the covering 1/16”
inside the mark you made. This allows the epoxy to adhere
better to the vertical stabilizer and the fuselage/horizontal
stabilizer. Remember not to cut into the balsa wood, as this will
weaken the structure.
Step 9. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and
apply it to the area of the horizontal stabilizer that contacts the
fuselage. Make sure the slot of the horizontal stabilizer aligns
with the slot cut into the fuselage top and horizontal stabilizer
mount area of the fuselage. Check the bottom of the horizontal
stabilizer to see that it is aligned to the fuselage and no bare
wood is showing.
CONTINUED

13
Section 3: Installing the Tail
Step 10. With the fuselage resting on a flat surface and the
horizontal stabilizer attached to the fuselage, adjust the stabilizer
until you have an equal distance on both the right and left sides
of the stabilizer to the wing. When you are satisfied they are
even, tape the horizontal stabilizer securely in place and allow
the epoxy to cure. Check once more to make sure the slots of
the horizontal stabilizer and fuselage are aligned. This is to make
sure that when the vertical stabilizer/rudder is inserted, it will be
properly aligned to the centerline of the fuselage. Use rubbing
alcohol and a paper towel to remove any excess epoxy.
Note: Use masking tape to hold in place until epoxy is cured.
Step 11. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy
and apply it to the bare wood areas of the vertical stabilizer.
Carefully insert the vertical stabilizer into the slot provided in the
fuselage/horizontal stabilizer. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Check the alignment so
the rudder has just a slight gap between it and the horizontal
stabilizer (see below). A 90-degree triangle can be used to check
the alignment of the vertical stabilizer to the horizontal stabilizer.
Use masking tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cures.
CONTINUED

Note: The control surfaces, elevator and rudder are
pre-hinged with the hinges installed, but the hinges
are not glued in place. It’s very important that you
properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps that
follow using high-quality thin CA glue.
Step 1. Locate the horizontal stabilizer and elevator that you
attached to the fuselage. The hinges are not glued in place, so
you will have to use thin CA glue to attach them permanently. A
typical hinge is shown below. Note that the construction allows
you to determine the center of the hinge easily. There is also a
slot that enhances the wicking action when CA is applied.
Step 2. Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer.
Check each hinge to make sure it’s centered, then re-install the
elevator onto the horizontal stabilizer.
Step 3. With the elevator re-installed, check the alignment to
make sure it’s centered on the horizontal stabilizer. Deflect the
elevator and completely saturate each hinge with thin CA glue.
The elevator’s front surface should lightly contact the horizontal
stabilizer during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are
glued in place, a 1/32” gap or less will be maintained throughout
the length of the elevator. The hinges are constructed of a spe-
cial material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distrib-
ute throughout each of the hinges, securely bonding them to the
wood structure.
Step 4. Turn the fuselage over and deflect the elevator in the
opposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply thin CA
glue to each hinge, making sure the CA penetrates into both the
elevator and horizontal stabilizer.
14
Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator
• Fuselage
• Horizontal stabilizer with elevator attached
• Vertical stabilizer with rudder attached
• Thin CA glue • Drill
• CA debonder • Drill bit: 1/16”
• Paper towels • Medium Phillips
• Felt tipped pen screwdriver
or pencil
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

15
Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator
CONTINUED
Step 5. Use CA remover/debonder and a paper towel to
remove excess CA from the elevator and horizontal stabilizer.
Step 6. After the elevator has been attached to the horizontal
stabilizer, firmly grasp the fuselage and the elevator to check that
the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this
by applying medium pressure, trying to separate the elevator
from the horizontal stabilizer. Use caution that you do not crush
the structure.
Note: Work the elevator up and down several times to “work
in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
Step 7. Repeat this process for hinging the rudder to the verti-
cal stabilizer. Remember to flex the rudder back and forth several
times to “work in” the hinge.
Step 8. You will next attach the rudder and elevator control
horns. Locate the nylon control horns (2), backplates (2) and the
four 8mm long control horn screws.
Step 9. Install the elevator control horn first. It will be located
on the elevator, centered to the opening in the aft of the
fuselage. Make sure it’s centered to the opening, as the elevator
clevis will move in and out of that opening. Also, make sure the
control horn holes for the pushrod wire are positioned over the
hinge line of the elevator/horizontal stabilizer.
Step 10. When you’re satisfied with the location of the
control horn, mark the position of the screw locations with a felt
tipped pen or pencil.

16
Step 11. Remove the horn and using a 1/16” drill bit, drill the
holes for the elevator control horn screws in the elevator.
Step 12. The rudder control horn will be centered 3/8” up from
the bottom of the rudder, positioned so the pushrod wire holes
on the horn line up over the hinge line of the rudder/
vertical stabilizer. When you’re satisfied with the position,
mark the screw hole locations on the rudder using a felt tipped
pen or pencil.
Step 13. Remove the control horn and drill the screw hole
locations with a 1/16” drill bit.
Step 14. Attach the elevator and rudder control horns using
the four 8mm screws and a medium Phillips screwdriver. Use
care not to slip and damage the covering.
Section 4: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator
CONTINUED

17
Note: Velcro tape can also be used for mounting the receiver
and battery pack.
Step 1. Install the grommets and eyelets in the two servos per
the instructions included with the radio.
Step 2. Locate the two plywood servo rails in the fuselage.
Note: The rails have not been glued in place yet. Move the rails
to the approximate opening for your servos. Trial fit the two
servos on the rails. Try to place each servo close to the sides of
the fuselage, as shown below. Note: It’s a good idea to remove
the two servo arms at this time to make it easier to fit the servos
in place.
Note: Position the two servos so there is ample room
between the servo horns. Remember you can make
adjustments to the servo rails to make it easier to fit
the servos in place. It is also important to orientate the
servo output shaft as shown.
Step 3. Once you are satisfied with the servo’s location, use a
pencil or felt tipped pen to mark where the mounting holes of the
two servos are located on the servo rails. Also mark the position
of the two servo rails. Remove the two servos and use thick CA
to glue the servo rails in place.
Step 4. Drill the 8 mounting holes with a 1/16” drill bit. Screw
the servos in place using the 8 screws provided with the servos.
Step 5. Remove the servo horns from the servos. Only one
arm of a servo horn will be used, the other three will be trimmed
off so the horn doesn’t bind with the side of the fuselage. Please
refer to the photo below before trimming the horn. The elevator
servo is on the left side as you look down from the front of the
fuselage; the rudder servo is on the right side. Trim off the
excess arms using a sharp hobby knife.
Section 5: Installing The Radio
• 2 to 4-channel radio system with 2 standard servos
and hardware (not included)
• Radio packing foam (not included)
• Thick CA glue • Small Phillips screwdriver
• CA debonder • Hobby knife with #11 blade
• Paper towel • Pencil or felt tipped pen
• Drill • Velcro
• Drill bit: 1/16”
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

18
Section 5: Installing The Radio
Step 6. Attach the appropriate servo leads to the receiver.
Install the receiver just in front of the servos. (Refer to
photo below).
Step 7. The antenna lead will be run from the bottom of the
fuselage area out to the opening in the fuselage tail.
Step 8. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobby
shop) to hold the receiver and the battery in place in the fuse-
lage. This also provides some shock support during landings.
Step 9. Before attaching the battery pack to the fuselage with
servo tape, be sure to balance the aircraft first. Balance can be
adjusted by moving the battery back and forth in the fuselage
nose to achieve balance. Always try this first before adding any
weight to the aircraft. See Section 10, Balancing the Aspire, for
more information
Step 10. A switch can be installed in the side of the fuselage
under the wing.
Step 11. With the servos hooked into the receiver and the
battery connected, turn on your transmitter. The servos will
center. Make sure the trims on your transmitter are centered.
Turn off the receiver and then turn off your transmitter. The ser-
vos are now in their electrical “center” position. The servo horns
can now be installed on the servos as shown below.
CONTINUED

19
Step 1. Locate the parts used to make up the control linkages
for rudder and elevator. This includes two 6” pushrod wires, two
12” pushrod wires, two wood pushrods, and four sections of
heat shrink tubing.
Step 2. If there is covering over the rudder pushrod exit, which
is located on the top of the fuselage near the leading edge of the
vertical fin, carefully cut it away using a hobby knife.
Step 3. Using either a felt tipped pen or pencil, mark 1” from
each end of the wood pushrods as shown below.
Step 4. Drill a 1/16” hole through the wood pushrods at each
marked end.
Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages
• Fuselage
• 6” pushrod wire, no threads (2)
• 12” pushrod wire, threaded on one end (2)
• Wood pushrod (2)
• Heat shrink tubing (4)
• Clevis (2)
• Clevis lock (used to keep clevis closed) (2)
• Nylon wire keepers (2)
• Felt tipped pen or pencil • Ruler
• 6-minute epoxy • Drill
• Paper towels • Drill bit: 1/16”
• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol
• Heat gun
• Masking tape
• Pliers (standard
or needle nose)
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

20
Section 6: Installing the Control Linkages
Step 5. To determine the approximate length of a pushrod,
temporarily tape (using masking tape) one of the 12” pushrod
wires to one end of a wood pushrod, half the distance of the wire
(unthreaded end), onto the wood pushrod. Thread a clevis
approximately 10 turns onto the threaded end of the rod. Repeat
this process with one of the 6” unthreaded rods, however it will
not have a clevis attached. Make sure the metal rods are clear of
the tape near the holes drilled in Step 4.
Step 6. Position the temporarily assembled pushrod along
the outside of the fuselage, lining it up with the control horn on
the rudder and the servo arm of the rudder servo. Do the same
with the elevator pushrod. Remember the elevator pushrod will
be inserted through the fuselage and exit out the opening at
the aft end.
Step 7. If necessary, adjust the rods on the wooden pushrod
to allow for a 90-degree bend to be made in the non-threaded
portion of each rod that will be attached to a wooden pushrod.
Step 8. Mark the rods where the bends will be made in refer-
ence to the marks made on the wooden pushrod (the 1” mark
you made in Step 3).
Step 9. Disassemble the pushrod and remove the clevis
and tape.
Step 10. Use a needle nose pliers or standard pliers to make
a 90-degree bend at the mark you made on each rod. Trim off
any excess rod after the bend so it is 1/8” to 3/16” long. The short
portion of the rod that you cut will fit into the holes of the
wooden pushrod without the end extending out of the hole on
the other side. Repeat the process for the 6” unthreaded rod.
Make up the second pushrod following the same procedure.
CONTINUED