hergom HERITAGE User guide

ESTUFA DE LEÑA
WOOD STOVE
POÊLE À BOIS
ESTUFA DE LENHA
STUFA A LEGNA
HERITAGE
LIBRO DE INSTRUCCIONES PARA INSTALACIÓN, MANTENIMIENTO Y USO
INSTRUCTIONS BOOK FOR INSTALLATION, MAINTENANCE AND USE
MANUEL D’INSTRUCTIONS DE MAINTENANCE ET D’UTILISATION
LIVRO DE INSTRUÇÕESPARA A INSTALAÇÃO, MANUTENÇÃO E UTILIZAÇÃO
MANUALE DI ISTRUZIONI PER L’INSTALLAZIONE, IL MANTENIMENTO E L’USO
Fecha de edición 10/03/2011
CODIGO : C00061

30
WELCOME
To the HERGÓM family. We thank you for your consideration on
choosing our HERITAGE wood stove. The quality of the materials
used to build your stove guarantee a long service life.
We are sure your stove will give you great satisfaction, which is the
greatest motivation for our team. To have a Hergóm Stove is the
manifestation of an exceptional sense of quality.
Our instructions book has two basic parts:
MANUAL FOR PROFESSIONAL INSTALLERS indicating the
basic rules for building the chimney, its installation and maintenance.
MANUAL FOR THE USER explaining the operation of the stove,
its preservation and cleaning, safety rules, etc...
Please read the whole of the manual. Its purpose is to familiarise
you with the stove and indicate rules for its installation, operation and
maintenance, which will be very useful for you. Keep it and consult it
whenever you need. If after reading this manual you need any further
clarification, consult your habitual supplier or call the factory directly.
IMPORTANT WARNING: If the stove is not installed correctly, it
will not give the excellent service for which it was conceived. Read
these instructions completely and place the work in the hands of a
specialist.
Some parts of your stove are protected in a special heat-proof
paint for high temperatures. The first times the stove is lit, there is
generally a little smoke while some of the components evaporate, and
this enables the paint to bond. We therefore recommend you ventilate
the room until this phenomenon disappears.

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CONTENTS
Chapter
Pag
e
PRESENTATION
5
MANUAL FOR THE PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER
1.1 - INTRODUCTION
7
1.2. - INSTALLATION OF CHIMNEYS FOR SOLID FUELS
1.2.1 - COMPONENTS OF A SMOKE EVACUATION SYSTEM
1.2.2 - TYPES OF INSTALLATIONS
10
1.2.3 - EXAMPLE INSTALLATIONS
11
1.2.4 - GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
12
1.2.5 - EXTERNAL FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE OPERATION OF A CHIMNEY.
1.2.6 - SUMMARY OF REGULATIONS
1.2.7 - GENERAL ADVICE FOR THE INSTALLATION OF THE HEATING
APPLIANCE
15
1.3. - CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE
1.3.1 - CHIMNEY INSPECTION
1.3.2 - CHIMNEY CLEANING
16
1.3.3 - CREOSOTE
MANUAL OF USE
2.1 - STOVE OPERATION
17
2.1.1 - CONTROLS AND PHYSIONOMY
2.1.2 - FUELS
18
2.1.3 - LIGHTING YOUR STOVE
19
2.2 - STOVE MAINTENANCE
21
2.2.1 - PREVENTING AND CLEANING THE CREOSOTE
2.2.2 - SEALS
22
2.2.3 - GLASS
2.2.4 - COLLECTING AND DISPOSING OF ASH
23
2.2.5 - CAST IRON
24
2.2.6 - SOAPSTONE
2.2.7 - CONTROLS
2.3 - PRODUCTS FOR PRESERVATION
25
2.4 - SAFETY
23
2.4.1 - GENERAL PROCEDURES
2.4.2 - DISTANCES FROM COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES
2.5 - PROBLEMS WITH DRAUGHT
26
2.5.1 - TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
27
2.6 - TECHNICAL DATA
28
2.7 - COMPONENTS OF THE STOVE
30

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PRESENTATION
The HERITAGE wood stove has the following main characteristics:
·Built in cast iron and Soapstone with parts assembled, ceramic seal and bolted together.
·Large capacity fireplace enabling firewood to be burnt of up to 57 cm in length.
·Primary air regulation valve.
·Indirect primary air supply system descending the inside of the glass (self - cleaning) to the bottom of the
fireplace. It also has a primary air hole in a nozzle under the gap of the door to enhance burning.
·Secondary air with self - regulation, increasing the output of the stove and reducing the emission of
unburnt elements into the air.
·Glass self - cleaning.
·Fold down front door with glass.
·Seal ash tray.
·Side door to facilitate fuel loading with a fixed opening control.
·Optional horizontal or vertical smoke outlet Ø150 mm. (6”)
·Double grill with shaker.
·Gives off heat by radiation, directly heating walls, ceilings, etc.
·It is supplied completely assembled from factory, prepared for connection to the chimney.
Fig.2
Horizontal
or Vertical
smoke outlet
Side loading
door
Grille with
shaker
Primary air hole
for lighting
Ash tray
drawer
Shaker
Control
Primary air
manifold
Secundary air
manifold
Primary air
control
Sealed ash
tray door
Front door
with glass
Soapstone

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SPECIAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INSTALLING AND MAINTAINING CHIMNEYS
FOR HEATING APPLIANCEES OPERATING WITH SOLID FUELS
1.1 - INTRODUCTION
The way to install the chimney conduct of the appliance, albeit a stove, a fireplace or
compact unit for solid fuels will decisively affect the safety and operation of the unit.
It is very important to install the chimney properly.
The general and local regulations must be known by the installer when installing a
chimney for solid fuels.
The recommendations we offer in this text will help you to take the right decisions.
Call the factory directly in the event of doubt. There is a Customer Attention department
waiting for your call.
1.2 - INSTALLATION OF CHIMNEYS FOR SOLID FUELS.
1.2.1 - COMPONENTS OF A SMOKE EVACUATION SYSTEM.
An evacuation system consists of various components:
Connector to the appliance, cleaning cover, hoods, draught valve, ceiling and wall insulators,
wall fixtures, linings, protective chambers etc.,.... and the chimney conduct.
To safely install a heating appliance, it is absolutely necessary to install all of these components
in full respect of the regulations established by the manufacturer, and particularly for the
distances to the fuel surfaces.
Chimney connector
·The chimney connector is the section of pipes that join the stove and the chimney. The
chimney connector must have the diameter specified by the manufacturer. The material will
be special steel for evacuation pipes, either with heat resistant paint protection, vitrified
enamels or stainless steels with refractory characteristics. Generally use pipes manufactured
for this purpose.
·Never use aluminium of galvanised plate, as these materials do not withstand the extreme
temperatures of fire.
·The chimney connector must be as short as possible, avoiding, if possible, all horizontal
sections and 90º elbows. The use of horizontal pipes or excessive elbows increases the loss
of draught and the accumulation of creosote in the chimney.
·In the event of fitting horizontal sections, it is recommendable that they should have a
minimum rising gradient of 5º
·Provide a cleaning cover. Simplify the connection of the pipes to the stove with additional
accessories such as telescopic pipes or cleaning Ts.
·Telescopic pipes enable the chimney to be separated without having to move the appliance
and facilitate inspection and maintenance operations.
·The cleaning Ts simplify chimney cleaning operations.
·Seal well all the joints of the chimney manifold with refractory paste.
·If there are holes drilled in the connection collar of the appliance, anchor the chimney
connector to the stove collar using suitable bolts. This ensures the adjustment and avoids
vibrations that could cause the seals to come apart.
Hoods
There is a wide range of hoods for chimneys.

34
It must be well fitted and separated from the chimney by at least its diameter.
Draught valve
·It is not generally necessary to fit a draught valve in a correct installation.
·Some installations, however, can benefit from a draught valve, such as tall chimneys that
can create stronger draught than normal.
·In any case, a draught valve may help to regulate the draught. A solid fuel appliance
requires a draught of between 1.5 and 2.5 mm.c.a. (see manufacturer specifications) (see
technical data, page 28)
·If the chimney draught is higher than this, it is best to install a draught valve.
·Draught valves must never completely shut of the smoke movement. A passage of at least
20 % must always remain free.
Linings, protectors, ...
·Respect the distances between stove fuel surfaces and the chimney conduct recommended
by the manufacturer.
·If this were not possible, defend these materials with suitable protectors.
·There are special protectors for installing in fuel walls when they pass close by or the
chimney manifold passes through them. Their mission is to protect the wall against fire.
·A wall protector must be installed when a chimney manifold is installed through a fuel wall or
near one and is likely to be damaged
·Wall passages protect the inside of the combustion wall. This piece must be used when the
chimney is connected through walls or ceilings.
Chimney Conduct
Chimneys for solid fuel appliancees must be built in bricks or prefabricated with materials that
withstand high temperatures.
Therefore, if you are going to build a chimney for your heating appliance, you have two alternatives:
a) Brick chimneys
b) Metal chimneys
There is not much difference concerning the output of the draught between masonry and metal.
Wherever possible, locate the chimney in the house for a better draught, to accumulate
less creosote and give it a longer life.
Do not install the appliance without making sure that the chimney is suitable for its use.
Before installing the appliance, examine the chimney for cracks, bad connections, rust, missing
cement or other signs of damage and obstruction.
Make sure the chimney is the right size for your appliance. Consult the dimensions
recommended by the manufacturer.
The use of a chimney that is too small or too large may prevent the heating appliance
from working properly, and thus contribute to the formation of creosote.
BRICK CHIMNEYS:
The advantages of these chimneys are as follow:
·The mass of bricks and/or slabs reduce the cooling of the smoke in the chimney.
·The bricks’ heat - accumulating characteristic enables the house to be kept warm longer
once the fire has gone out.
·It may be built to a particular taste.
·If it is well built it is more heat resistant than the metal chimneys.

35
Brick chimneys must be lined on the outside of the dwelling to prevent smoke cooling.
They must be built in materials that withstand high temperatures and corrosion.
Make sure the chimney is clean and operates correctly, as this will prevent losses of
draught and the formation of creosote.
Make sure the chimney is of the right size
and that it is not too high.
A draught valve must be installed if it
is too high.
If your brick chimney has a larger cross -
section than that recommended by the
manufacturer of the appliance, it would be
best to install another metal chimney of
suitable proportions inside in order to avoid
problems with operation and creosote
accumulation.
In this case it would be best to seal one of
the ends of the chimney against the pipe to
prevent the formation of currents that could
cool the chimney (see Fig. - 3).
This seal should be performed at the top to
make use of the heat that is produced along
the whole section of the chimney. In the
same way, it is best to perform a circulation
inside this chamber between the pipes and
the chimney to allow relief and prevent
excessive heat from causing damage in the
walls (cracking etc...). To do this it would be
sufficient to locate and lower and upper grill
(15 x 10 cm) in the chamber. The air will
circulate by natural convection, taking the
hot air from the bottom to the top of the
dwelling.
METAL CHIMNEYS
The advantages of these chimneys are:
·They are easy to install.
·They enable slight changes in the
direction of the chimney, which gives
more flexibility in the choice of the place where the stove is to be installed.
·As there are curved elbows, the sharp angles are eliminated that could make the draught
difficult.
Make sure that all the pipes of the chimney fit well and are completely sealed.
1.2.2 - TYPES OF INSTALLATIONS
When you install the chimney and the accessories, make particularly sure that you respect all
the manufacturer’s recommendations for the right distances of the chimney from the
combustible materials, walls and ceilings.
There are basically two ways to install a prefabricated metal chimney:
Interior or exterior installation
Fig. - 3
SEAL
ONE OF THE
ENDS

36
1.2.2.1 - Interior installation
When the chimney passes inside the dwelling and through ceilings and roof.
Choose the interior installation wherever possible. An interior installation heats faster and
holds the heat. In this way it promotes the best draught and reduces the formation of creosote.
Fire prevention wall fixtures must be installed when the chimney passes through floors and/or
ceilings. The insulation will be at least 50 mm thick from the chimney to the structure.
Protect the walls with protectors when the chimney is not at a safety distance and might cause
damage. (See Fig. - 4)
1.2.2.2 - Exterior installation
Exterior installation when the chimney passes through the wall from the appliance and
then rises on the outside of the dwelling.
An exterior installation does not benefit by heating the outside of the building and normally
reduces the temperature of the smoke in comparison with interior installations.
In exterior installations, the draught is not good and in experiments they have been shown to
increase the accumulation of creosote.
If yours is an exterior installation, use double pipes with an insulating chamber.
CLOSE-UP OF THE PASSING
OF CHIMNEY PIPES THROUGH
WALLS AND COMBUSTIBLE STRUCTURES
HEAT
INSULATION
STRUCTURE METAL
EDGING
Fig.-4

37
1.2.3 -EXAMPLE INSTALLATIONS
Chimney Cap
Extended Roof
Support Bracket
(Conduit
not included)
Storm Collar
Adjustable Roof
Flashing
Twist-Lock
Chimney Sections
Attic Insulation Shield
Firestop Radiation
Shield
Firesafe Enclosure
Two story house installation with attic.
Stovepipe
Support Box and Trim
Collar with built-in
Starter section
Chimney through outer wall with enclosed chase. One story house installation with attic.
Chimney Cap
Storm Collar
Flashing
Chimney Sections
Chase Enclosure
Wall Strap
Support Box
with built-in
Starter
Adjustable Roof
Tee
Tee clean-out
Access door
Tee Support Bracket
Chimney is supported by Tee Support Bracket. Chimney is supported by Ceiling.
Chimney Cap
Storm Collar
Flashing
Adjustable Roof
section
Insullation
Shield
Stovepipe
Chimney pipe through Clay tile
Chimney Cap
Storm Collar
Flashing
Masonry Chimney
Adjustable Roof
Tee
Wall Thimble
Tee clean-out
Access door
or other Lined Masonry Chimney
Clay tile or
other Liner
Wall Thimble

38
1.2.4 - GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
·Use only prefabricated metal chimneys special for high temperatures.
·Do not connect a heating appliance to any conduct or air distribution system.
·Do not connect to chimneys with other services, as this would compromise the safe operation
of the appliance and the other applications.
·The premises where the heating appliance is to be installed must have a sufficient air inlet in
the premises to satisfy its air requirements. Houses that are excessively isolated can cause
the chimney not to work as well as possible and even cause reverse draughts bringing the
smoke inside the room when, for instance, the kitchen extractor hood is working. In such a
case it is necessary to make a special air inlet from outside the house to supply the
appliance.
1.2.5 - EXTERNAL FACTORS AFFECTING THE OPERATION OF A CHIMNEY:
·Houses highly isolated on the inside, without air flows. As there is not sufficient air in the
heating appliance, there is a deficient draught. This is corrected by sending air from the
outside to the stove.
·Trees and/or buildings close to the house.
·The wind speed. Generally, strong winds increase the draught, but stormy winds reduce the
draught.
·The difference between the temperature on the inside / outside. The colder it is outside, the
better the draught.
·Barometric pressure. On rainy, damp or stormy days, the draught is generally weak.
·Liveliness of the fire. The hotter the fire, the stronger the draught.
·Cracks in the chimney, a badly sealed or dirty door to the appliance, air entering through the
pipe connections, another appliance connected to the chimney, etc. can cause unsuitable
draughts.
1.2.6 - SOME STANDARDS
Below are other standards that must be respected when building the chimney:
a) Use resistant and non-combustible materials. Do not mount cement asbestos tubes.
b) Choose a route that is as vertical as possible. Do not connect various appliances to
the same chimney.
Fig.-6

39
c) Prevent the flue from ending in areas near to constructions and it must exceed the
closest peak in height, where there is a adjoining building.
Fig.-7
d) The inside walls must be perfectly smooth and free of obstacles. At the joints of tubes
with brick chimneys, avoid bottlenecks.
Fig.-8
e) It is very important for the tube joints to be well sealed to cover possible cracks that
allow air to enter.
Fig.-9

40
f) To check the airtightness of the chimney, cover the roof end and introduce paper with
damp straw into the chimney.
Fig.-10
g) It is very important for the chimney to stand out by more than one metre from the
highest part of the house. If the draught is to be increased, increase the height of the chimney.
Fig.-11
h) The cowls must not hinder the draught.
Fig.-12

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i) Clean the chimney at least once a year.
Fig.-13
j) The joints of the tubes forming the chimney, in the event of using simple metal tubes,
must be sealed using refractory filler. Each tube must fit into the next to prevent any creosote
from reaching the outside.
k) The exterior metal chimneys must be built with special double heat-resistant tubes for
solid fuel.
1.2.7 - GENERAL ADVICE FOR INSTALLING THE HEATING APPLIANCE:
·Install the heating appliance on an insulated base.
·It is important to insulate the heating appliance from the floor to prevent the floor from
absorbing a large part of the calories of the appliance.
·Place the heating appliance in a suitable place for better output.
The best location is generally the lounge, as it is a large area and generally located in the
centre of the dwelling.
If the house has two floors, the best thing is to place it on the lower floor and near the
staircase.
1.3 - CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE
Having performed the installation, it must be preserved, and so it is necessary to carry out
periodical checks so that the chimney will work properly and to avoid its deterioration.
1.3.1 - INSPECTING THE CHIMNEY
Certain sections of special pipes and T pieces make inspection and maintenance a relatively
easy task.
By removing the lower cover of the T, it is possible to clean the set of pipes from the top, using a
chimney sweeping brush.
The waste coming off the inside of the pipes will be collected in a rubbish bag or bucket located
at the bottom of the chimney. A mirror fixed to a bracket support enables easy inspection of the
chimney.

42
If the chimney is made of bricks, instead of steel pipes we recommend the installation of a trap
for periodical cleaning and inspection. Normally, this trap is located at the bottom of the chimney
(for instance, in the basement of a house).
If the brick chimney were made without a trap or cleaning door, the inspections will be
performed from the connection point between the stove and the chimney.
1.3.2 - CLEANING THE CHIMNEY
The most effective way to clean the chimney is using suitable
chimney brushes. The brushes must be as close as possible to
the cross-section of the chimney.
In order to delay the general cleaning, we recommend
the periodical use of the HERGÓM soot product, which you can
get from any of our distributors.
Periodical inspections
Perform each of the following inspections in the specified times.
Monthly:
·A visual inspection is recommended for the amount of
creosote in the chimney and its manifold, depending on the
use of the appliance.
At the end of each season:
·Dismantle the chimney manifold and clean it thoroughly.
·Replace all pipes that show excessive signs of wear or
damage.
·Inspect and clean and repair the chimney if necessary.
1.3.3 - CREOSOTE
When wood burns slowly, tras and other organic vapours are
produced, which when combined with the atmospheric damp
produce creosote. The creosote vapours may condense if the
walls of the chimney are cold and if the creosote catches,
extremely outputful fires may result. Any creosote accumulation
must be eliminated immediately.
As the creosote accumulation depends on so many variables, it
is very difficult to judge the time when the chimney should be
cleaned. A visual inspection is the best way to make sure that
the chimney and your stove are clean.
We therefore recommend that installations be made to give easy access.
For protection against the chance of fire, the evacuation system must be installed correctly and
be perfectly assured. When inspecting, immediately replace any rusted, scratched or broken
component.
Fig. -14

43
MANUAL OF USE
2.1 - STOVE OPERATION
With your HERITAGE stove installed and connected to the
chimney, you are prepared to light the fire.
Before lighting your stove for the first time, you must
familiarise yourself with the different control systems and the
physionomy of your stove, how to choose the firewood, how to
light it and use it each day
Although the operation of your stove is easy, the solid fuel
combustion process is complex, as many factors are involved
and time and experience is needed to understand how it works.
ALWAYS REMEMBER the stove produces heat and it is
therefore necessary to keep children, clothes, furniture… away
from it as any contact might produce burns.
There follows some advice for you to suitably know your
stove and how it works, which we would ask you to read
carefully:
2.1.1 - CONTROLS AND PHYSIONOMY
Before lighting any fire, familiarise yourself with the
location and operation of the controls and parts of your stove and
learn how to use them (see Fig. 2 page 5)
For your own safety, do not modify these parts in any
case.
FRONT DOOR CONTROL: The front door enables you
to enter the stove to load firewood and for cleaning, and gives
you a view of the fire through the glass. To open the door, lift the
handle to 10 o clock (position on a clock) and draught on the
door. Fig. 15. To close the door, press the door against the
frame, lowering the handle to 8 o clock.
SIDE DOOR CONTROL: The side door enables you to
load firewood. To open the door, lift the handle to 2 o clock
(position on a clock) and draught on the door. Fig. 16. To close
the door, press the door against the frame, lowering the handle to
4 o clock.
ASH TRAY DOOR CONTROL: Open this door when you
need to remove the ash from the stove. To open the door, turn
the handle to 3 o clock (position on a clock). (Fig. 17) To close
the door, press the door against the frame, lowering the handle to
6 o clock.
PRIMARY AIR CONTROL: The primary air control
enables the amount of air coming into the stove to be increased.
By moving the control to the left, the entry of primary air is
increased (see Fig. 18)
Open
Close
Fig.15
Open
Closed
Fig.16
Open
Close
Fig.17
+-
Fig.18

44
AUTOMATIC REGULATION OF THE SECONDARY AIR: The secondary air enters
through the pipes of the deflector and is spread proportionally in the combustion chamber. The
greater the combustion, the more the heat and, as a result, the better the draught and the better
provision of secondary air.
GRILL SHAKER: This control is located inside the ash tray. Open the door to the ash
tray and using the tool provided, (see Fig. 19.) move the lever forward and back. The upper
grille will move forward and backward, opening and closing the entrance to the ash
compartment and causing the ash to fall into the ash tray. When the door to the ash tray is
closed, the door pushes the lever and this closes the connection between the stove and the ash
tray.
ASH TRAY: The ash tray collects the hot
wood in the fire and conveniently allows the ash to
be removed from your stove. The ash tray is very
easy to take out. When the stove is cold, push the
ash through the grille in the stove into the ash tray
and then remove the ash tray by sliding it out
carefully. After getting rid of the ash, push the ash
tray in to its position and close the door.
Warning!
Do not forget to put the ash tray back into
place.
Never allow your stove to work with the ash
tray and the grille open, as this could overheat and
damage your stove.
2.1.2 - FUELS
Your HERITAGE wood stove is designed only to burn high calorie hard firewood.
For guidance, here are some types of wood with a rough classification with reference to
their heating ability:
·HIGH: Apple, Black birch, Maple, Oak, White ilex, Black beech
·MEDIUM HIGH: Ash, Beech, Yellow birch, Maple, Red ilex
·MEDIUM LOW: Black ash, White birch, Elm, Norwegian pine, Teak pine,
Cherry, Tamarind
·LOW: Pine, Cedar, Fir, Poplar, Linden,
The quality of the wood affects the heat produced, the duration of the combustion and the
operation of your stove.
Do not use as fuel wood from the sea; salts contained in it react in the combustion
releasing acids that damage the cast iron and the steel plate.
Soft wood, low in calories, generate high, fast combustions, whereas hard woods, high in
calories, burn long and produce more heat.
The damp contained in the wood also plays an important role in the operation of the
stove. Green woods contain a large amount of damp.
Fig.19

45
Therefore, green wood lights with difficulty and must be stored for a year to be able to
used in your stove.
In order to prepare green wood, it must be chopped and stacked in order to enable
contact with dry air for a year.
Store the wood on boards or blocks to keep it off the ground and cover only the top of the
stack. Plastics or canvasses used to cover the sides of the wood stack retain the damp and
prevent the wood from drying.
Do not stack wood close to the stove. Do so at the distances specified for combustible
materials (see page 25/26)
PRECAUTION
DO NOT USE CHEMICAL OR INFLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS PETROL,
NAPHTHLINE, KEROSINE, GAS - OILS, OILS, PELLETS, COAL, ARTIFICIAL WOOD OR ANY
OTHER MATERIAL TO LIGHT YOUR STOVE. DO NOT BURN RUBBISH.
Having understood your stove’s controls and having chosen the right wood, you are
ready to light the fire.
2.1.3 - LIGHTING YOUR FIRE
It is essential that the fire should be lit slowly for the first time.
The cast iron must be tempered: excessive fire on a new stove can cause cracks in the
iron or damage other parts of the stove.
The vocanic stones of the walls of the stove must be heated slowly to remove any damp
in the stones and in the cement joints.
When lighting your first fire, the stove will give off some smokes and gases.
This is normal due to the evaporation of the components of the paint and oils used in
making your stove.
If you consider it necessary, open a window to ventilate the room. The smoke and gases
normally persist for the first 10 or 20 minutes of lighting and will disappear when the stove is
“cured”.
The first times it is lit, other smells may be given off by the materials around the stove,
which will disappear with time. To reduce the smells, open the windows and create ventilation
around your stove.
FIRST LIGHTING
h) Open the door and place a couple of lighters in the bottom. Place some twigs
crosed over the lighters; place around 10 pieces with a diameter of 10/15 and a
length of 25/40 cm.
i) Open the primary air control completely by sliding the control to the left.
j) Light the lighters. Leave the front door ajar, not completely closed, until the twigs
begin to burn and the draught begins to rise.
k) Close the door and allow the fire to light. Keep the door closed while the stove is
working. Make sure the door to the ash tray is well closed.
l) WATCH THE FIRE ALL OF THE TIME to keep it low. The first fire must heat the
stove, but should not burn when touched. You should add some pieces of wood to
the fire to achieve the right temperature for the first lighting.
m) When the stove is warm but does not burn to the touch, close the primary air by
sliding the control to the right and allow the fire to go out completely.
n) Let your stove cool completely.

46
On the first lighting and the first time the stove is lit each season should be carried out as
described. Your patience will be rewarded with years of good operation from your stove.
NOTE: As the temperatures of the gases were low in the first lighting, the creosote
formed very fast. The glass in your door will have clouded up, and this will be cleaned by
another fire.
ORDINARY LIGHTING
Before lighting for normal operation, if your stove has not been used frequently for a long
time, it is best to follow the procedure for the first lighting, at least, to minimise the tensions of a
hot fire on a cold stove.
Before loading the stove, make sure the door to the ash tray is closed and the ash tray is
in place. If the ash tray door opens, the stove may overheat and be damaged.
Proceed as follows for normal lighting:
a) Open the door and place a couple of lighters in the bottom. Place some twigs crosed
over the lighters; place around 10 pieces with a diameter of 10/15 and a length of 25/40
cm.
b) Open the primary air control completely by sliding the control to the left.
c) Light the lighters. Leave the front door ajar, not completely closed, until the twigs begin to
burn and the draught begins to rise.
d) Close the door and allow the fire to light.
e) When the twigs have caught, open the door and add trunks, small at first, to form the fire.
Make sure that the wood is away from the glass so that the glass cleaning system works
correctly. Keep the front door and the ash tray door closed while the stove is working.
f) When the fire has lit well, use the primary air to regulate the required working range.
Slide the control to the left to achieve a high working range and to the right for a low
working range.
Note: When you open the door to load wood or move the trunks in the stove, it is best
to open it only a little at first, wait a few seconds and then open it completely. This procedure
will mean that the stove is smoke - free when you open the door completely, leaving the
room clear. Likewise, loading on a bed of red hot cinders reduces the smoke and will start
combustion rapidly.
COMBUSTION RANGES
HIGH COMBUSTION: Completely load the fire with wood on the bed of red hot cinders or
on the flames and open the primary air control completely. A high range is recommendable
once or twice a day to heat the chimney and the stove well, thus helping to avoid the creation
and accumulation of creosote.
MEDIUM COMBUSTION: Set the cam of the primary air to half, which is suitable for the
heat requirements of the area to be heated. This range is suitable when the stove is to be left
unattended.
LOW COMBUSTION: Close the primary air control for slow combustion. A low range
combustion for excessively long periods is not recommendable as it promotes the accumulation
of creosote.
The evacuation system must be inspected frequently if the low range combustion is
maintained continually.

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PRECAUTION WITH EXCESSIVE FIRES
Excessive fires means that the fire is working at temperatures above those
recommended previously in the COMBUSTION RANGE section. Excessive fires must be
carefully avoided as they can cause damage to your stove.
The symptoms of an excessive fire, even for a short time, are creaking in the stove and
the connection conduct of the chimney, and discolouring in the chimney pipe.
Excessive fires may be caused by an extreme draught on the chimney, inappropriate
combustion or erroneous operation.
Correct a situation of excessive fire as follows:
oEXCESSIVE DRAUGHT: The depression of the draught must not exceed 2.5
mm.c.a. A draught that exceeds this value requires a draught valve in the
chimney.
oINAPPROPRIATE FUEL: Do not burn coal, stacks of dry twigs, waxed logs or any
material other than the natural wood recommended.
oERROR IN OPERATION: Make sure that all the joints are in a good state.
Replace all loose or compressed joints. Do not light the stove with the front, side
or ash tray door open.
Controlling the temperature is the best way to determine whether the stove has
excessive fire. If you suspect that your stove has excessive fire, contact your supplier
immediately. The damage caused by excessive fire is not covered by the guarantee. The results
of excessive fire may include: deformations or burns in the internal pieces, discolouring and
deformations in external pieces and damage to the enamel.
NOTE: ANY SYMPTOM OF EXCESSIVE FIRE MAY ANNUL THE GUARANTEE!!
2.2 - STOVE MAINTENANCE
The temperature of the stove may be controlled with a special thermometer for stoves
located in the centre of the top.
2.2.1 - PREVENTING AND CLEANING THE CREOSOTE.
To prevent the formation of creosote:
1. Keep the stove with the primary air open completely for 30 minutes each day to burn
the creosote inside the stove and the evacuation system.
2. After reloading with firewood, keep the combustion with the primary air control fully
open for 20 or 30 minutes. This form of operation ensures the operation of the secondary
combustion, which, when it works, minimises the formation of creosote in the chimney.
The connector pipe of the chimney must be inspected at least once a month during the
season when the stove is used, to determine whether creosote has formed. If the creosote
residue has an accumulated layer of 6 mm. it must be eliminated to reduce the risk of fire.
If the glass gets dirty frequently, the temperature range of the combustion is low; this
indicates the risk of the formation of creosote.
The smoke evacuation system must be inspected in its connection with the stove and at
the top of the chimney. Cold surfaces tend to create deposits very quickly and so it is important
to inspect the chimney at the top end as this is the coldest area, unlike the stove connection.
The accumulated creosote must be eliminated with a cleaning brush designed
specifically for this use.

48
It is therefore recommendable that before each season when the stove is to be used, a
professional should be called to inspect the whole system, clean it and repair it if necessary.
2.2.2 - SEALS
The joints normally have to be changed every 2 or 3 seasons of use, depending on how
much the stove is used. If the seal on the door is lost, a new seal must be installed to improve
the operation of the stove. Contact your supplier for a set of seals for your stove.
To replace the seals on the door, proceed as follows:
6. First remove the old one with a tool or the end of a knife.
7. Clean all of the channels of the seal with a wire brush to eliminate the remains of
cement and fibres.
8. Apply a suitable glue for seal in the seating channels.
9. Pur a new seal in place on the seal adhesive without stretching the material.
10.Close the door immediately to squeeze the joint in its place and ensure a valid seal.
The use is required of the following seals:
FRONT DOOR: 1.70 m in length, 10 mmin diameter. A low density black strip (code J38)
GLASS: 1.50 m in length and 6.5 mm. in diameter, (code J14)
SIDE DOOR : 1.25 m in length and 10 mm in diameter. Low density black strip (code.
J38)
ASH TRAY DOOR : 0.90 m in length and 6.5 mm in diameter (code J14)
2.2.3 - GLASS
Do not use your stove if the glass in the door is broken. Do not submit the front door to
knocking or slamming.
If necessary, you can clean the glass in the door with an Hergóm glass cleaner, which
will be supplied by your supplier.
Never try to clean the glass when the stove is worling or when the glass is hot.
Most of he particles that settle can be cleaned by following the instructions of use of the
cleaner.
To clean difficult particles, open the door by draughting upwards and removeing it from
the stove, leaving the hinge pins free (take care to keep the pins and the washers in order to
refit the door).
Put the door on a table or working bench and apply the cleaner to the glass, leaving it to
work for a few minutes.
Leave the door in a horizontal position to allow the cleaner to penetrate the surface of the
glass better.
Clean the cleaner using a soft cloth.
Important: Knocking or scratching the glass will harm the integrity of the glass. Do
not use blades or steel sponges or any other abrasive material as a utensil to clean the glass.