Lincoln Continental 1964 Install guide

-
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
FORD DIVISION
~MOTOR COMPANY
FIRST PRINTING ~SEPTEMBER, : ·;6J
©1963 FORD MOTOR COMPANY, DEARBORN~ MICHIGAN
(001)
GROUP INDEX
•
LUIRICAt1Ql4 CHAitTS
'.~·.,,w:n
~- _·E:U
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS
··&&
INDEX
1m
SPECIFICATIONS AT END OF EACH GROUP

FOREWORD
This shop manual provides the Service Technician with com-
plete information for the proper servicing
of the 1964
Lincoln Continental.
The information
is grouped according to the type of work
being performed, such as diagnosis and testing, frequently
performed adjustments and repairs, in-vehicle adjustments,
overhaul, etc. Specifications and recommended special tools
are included.
Refer to the opposite page for important vehicle identifica-
tion data.
The descriptions and specifications' in this manual were in
effect at the time this manual was approved for printing.
The
Ford Motor Company reserves the right to discontinue models
at any time, or cha/zge specifications or design, without notice
and without incurring obligation.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
FORD MOTOR COMPANY

(003}
LINCOLN-CONTINENTAL IDENTIFICATION
3
LINCOLN-CONTINENTAL IDENTIFICATION
LIGHT SILVER BLUE METALLIC CRINKLE LEATHER
DAY OF MONTH CONVENTIONAL 2 891 RATIO AXlE
1964 MODEL YEAR ---"
PRODUCED AT WIXOM PlANT
CONSKUTiVE UNIT NUMBER
ENGINE
430 CID 4V CARBURETOR
BODY SERIAL CODE
IDENTIFlCATION
FIG. 1-1964 Lincoln-Continental Warranty Plate
Figure 1 illustrates the 1964 Lincoln-Continental Warranty Plate. The
Warranty Plate is located on the rear (lock) face of the left front door.
The official Vehicle Identification Number for title or registration purposes
is located on the right front fender apron above the upper suspension arm
opening (Fig. 2). Do not use the "Warranty Number" on the Warranty plate
for title or registration purposes.
FIG. 2-Vehide
Identification Nvntber Location
VEHICLE DATA
Example (fig. 1):
(74A W 81
74A ..
w
81.
29H 11 4)
4-Door Convertible
Rose
light Silver Blue Metallic Crinkle Leather
29H.
11 ..
I.
29th Day August
Boston District
2.89:1 Axle Ratio
N1200-B
4..
Twin Range Turbo-Drive Transmission
BODY
53A ... .
74-A ... .
COLOR
4- Door Sedan
4-Door Convertible
Two-tone paint codes use the same symbols as the single colors except that
two symbols are used. The lower body color code will appear first in the
Warranty Plate Paint Color Space.
If a special paint is used, the paint color space will not be stamped.
*M-30-J
Code Number Color Sales Name
A. .1724. Black. . Black Satin
C... . .1620. Dark Gray Metallic.. Princeton Gray
E. .. 1446 . . Silver Blue Metallic.. . Silver Blue
F .1226. Light Blue. . Powder Blue
G... 1636. Buff Buckskin
H. . .1544 Nocturne Blue Metallic ... Nocturne Blue
J.. .1515 . Red . Fiesta Red
M.. .1619 . White . Arctic White
N.. 921 Platinum.. Platinum
0. 1629 Light Green Metallic. . . Silver Green
Q 1624 Medium Blue Metallic. Huron Blue
R... 1633. Yellow EncinoYellow
S.. .1453 Dark Green Metallic... . Highlander Green
T. 1631 light Beige Metallic .. . Desert Sand
U .1070. Med. Turquoise Metallic . Regal Turquoise
W.. 1555. . Pink Metallic.. . Rose
)(. 1632 Maroon Metallic. Royal Maroon
2:.. 1630 Medium Beige Metallic. Silver Sand
*"M-32-J" Acrylic Paint Alternate with "M-30-J"

4
LINCOLN-CONTINENTAL IDENTIFICATION
(004)
TRIM
Deviation trim sets will use existing trim codes plus 2 suffix. A trim code
with a numeral suffix is not serviced, while a trim code with an alphabetical
suffix is serviced.
CODE TRIM SCHEMES
Motif Cloth and Crinkle leather
(Bench-Biscuit)
20 ........................ Rose Beige and Rose Beige
22. .... . ................ Blue and Blue
27 ........................ Turquoise and Turquoise
(Bench-Pleated)
70. .... . ......... Rose Beige and Light Rose Beige D/L
71. ........... . ..... Silver Blue and Light Silver Blue Metallic
72 ........................ Blue and Light Blue D/L
74 ........................ Beige and Pearl Beige
76 ........................ Black and White
77.. . ................ Tmquoise and Light Turquoise 0/L
Broad Cloth (Bench-Pleated)
31. . . ................ Medium Silver Blue
Versailles Cloth and Crinkle leather
(Bucket-Biscuit)
44. .............. . ....... Beige and Beige
46 ........................ Black and Black
51. . .............. Silver Blue and Light Silver Blue Metallic
(Bench-Biscuit)
61. . .............. Silver Blue and Light Silver Blue Metallic
64 ........................ Beige and Beige
66 ........................ Black and Black
Crinkle leather
(Bucket-Biscuit)
50 ........................ Rose Beige
51. .. ..... ..... .. . ....... Silver Blue
52............. . ...... Blue
54... .. Beige
55..... . .... Red
56..... . ....... Black
57... . . .... Turquoise
58 ........................ Burgundy
59... . ....... Palomino
(Bench-Pleated)
80. .... . ................ Light Rose Beige Metallic
81. ......... . ........... Light Silver Blue Metallic
82 ........................ light Blue 0/L
84 ................. · ....... Pearl Beige
85 ........................ Red
86 ........................ Black
87 ........................ light Turquoise D/L
88. ..... . ........ Burgundy
DATE
The code letters for the month are preceded by a numeral to show the day
of the month when the car was completed. The second year code letters
are to be used if 1964 model production exceeds 12 months.
First Second
Month Model Year Model Year
January... . .................. A....... .N
February.. . .................. B .............. P
March........ . .............. C .............. Q
April............. . ............... D .............. R
May.......................... .E.... . .... S
June............. . ................ F....... . .... T
July........... .. ................... G ............ U
August .................... ~ ........... H .............. V
September. .. .... . ... J.. ............. W
October ........ .K .............. X
November.... .l....... .. Y
December. . .......... .M .............. Z
DSO
Domestic Special Orders, Foreign Special Orders, and Pre-Approved Special
Orders have the complete order number recorded in this space. Also to
appear in this space is the two-digit code number of the District which
ordered the unit. If the unit is regular production, only the District code
number appears.
DISTRICT CODE
Code District Code District
11 ...................... Boston
34 ..................... Detroit
12 .., .............. Philadelphia
41. .................... Chicago
13 .................... New York
44 .................... St. louis
14 .................. Washington
45 .................. Twin Cities
21 ...................... Atlanta
51 ..................... Denver
22 ....................... Dallas
52 ................. los Angeles
24 ................. .Jacksonville
53 .................... Oakland
25 .................... Memphis
54 ..................... Seattle
31 ...................... Buffalo
81. ............. Ford of Canada
32 .................... Cincinnati
84 ......... Home Office Reserve
33 .................... Cleveland
90-99 ................... Export
AXLE
A number designates a conventional axle, while a letter designates an Equa-
lock differential.
Code Ratio
1 ............................. ·..· .......................... 2.89:1
3 ................... · ...................................... 3.11:1
A .... : ................. ~ .................................. 2.89:1
TRANSMISSION
The numeral "4" indicates a dual-range automatic transmission.
VEHICLE WARRANTY NUMBER
Example (Fig. 1): 4Y 86N 400001
4 ........................ 1964 Model Year
Y ........................ Wixom Assembly Plant
86 ....................... 4-Door Convertible
N ........................ 8-Cylinder 430 Cubic Inch Engine
400001 ................... First Unit Built (Consecutive Unit Number)
MODEL YEAR
The numeral "4" designates 1964
ASSEMBLY PLANT
Code Assembly Plant
S ..................................................... Pilot Plant
Y ........................................................ Wixom
MODEL
The model code number identifies the product line series and the particular
body style: the first of the two digits shows the product line, and the second
digit shows the body style.
Code
82 ...................... .
Body Type
.............. .4-0oor Sedan
.............. .4-Door Convertible
86........ .. ....... ..
ENGINE
Code
N ......... .
7 .......... ..
...... 8-Cylinder 430 Cubic Inch 4-V Carburetor
. .... 8-Cylinder 430 Cubic Inch 4- V Carburetor
(low Compression)
CONSECUTIVE UNIT NUMBER
The assembly plant, with each model year, begins with consecutive unit
number 400001 and continues on for each car built.

. (005)
PART 2-1
GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE .
PART 2-2
BRAKE SYSTEM
PAGE
. . 2-1
.. " ... . 2-6
2-1
GROUP
2
PART 2-3
SPECIFICATIONS
PAGE
.. 2-20
PART
2-1
GENERAL BRAKE SERVICE
Section
1 Diagnosis and Testing ....... .
2
Common Adjustments and Repa1r'
Page
......... " .2-1
....... 2-4
Section Page
3 Cleaning and Inspection ................... 2-5
II DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PRELIMINARY TESTS
1. Check the fluid level in the
master cylinder, and add FoMoCo
heavy-duty brake fluid if required.
2. Push the brake pedal down as
far as it will go while the car is
standing still and the engine is run-
ning. If the pedal travels more than
haJfway between the released posi-
tion
and the floor, check the brake
adjustment and the automatic ad-
justers.
To check adjuster operation, fol-
low
the procedure described under
"Brake Shoe Adjustments" in Part
2-2, Section 2.
Make several reverse brake stops
to ensure uniform adjustment at all
wheels.
3. With the transmission in neu-
tral, stop
the engine and apply the
parking brake. Depress the service
brake pedal several times to exhaust
all vacuum in the system. Then, de-
press the pedal
and hold it in the
applied position. Start the engine.
1f
the vacuum system is operating, the
pedal will
tend to fall away under
foot pressure and less pressure will
be required to hold the pedal in the
appiied position. If no action is felt,
the
vacuum booster system is not
functioning. Follow the procedures
in the "Booster Diagnosis Guide."
4. With the engine shut off, ex-
haust all vacuum in the system.
Depress the brake pedal and hold
it in the applied position. If the
pedal gradually falls away under this
pressure,
the hydraulic system is
leaking. Check all tubing hoses, wheel
cylinders
and connections for leaks.
If the brake pedal movement feels
spongy, bleed the
hydraulic system
to remove air from the lines and
cylinder. See "Hydraulic System
Bleeding", Section 2. Also,
check for
leaks or insufficient fluid ..
5. Should one of the brakes be
locked and the car must: be moved,
open the brake cylinder bleeder
screw long enough to let out a few
drops of brake fluid. This bleeding
operation will release the brakes,
but it will not correct the cause of
the trouble.
ROAD TEST
The car should be road tested
only if the brakes will safely stop
the car. Apply the brakes at a speed
of 25-30 mph to check for the exist-
ence of the trouble symptoms listed
in
Table 1, with the exception of
those resolved in the preliminary
tests
and brake chatter. To check
for brake chatter or surge, apply
the brakes lightly from approxi-
mately 50 mph. For each of the
symptoms encountered, check and
eliminate the causes which are also
listed in
Table 1.
If the causes of noisy or grabbing
brakes listed in Table 1 have been
checked and eliminated and the
brakes still grab, follow the appli-
cable procedures in the "Booster
Diagnosis Guide."
If the brakes fail to release or if
the pedal is slow in
returning, fol-
low
the applicable procedures in-
dicated
in the "Booster Diagnosis
Guide."
•

2-2 GROUP 2-BRAKES
BRAKE BOOSTER TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
BOOSTER INOPERATIVE
SLOW
BRAKE PEDAL RETURN
(OR FAIL TO RELEASE)
GRABBING BRAKES
If the preliminary tests show that
the unit is not operating, remove
the hose from the power unit
and
check the vacuum source by placing
a thumb over
the }lose. Remove the
thumb and note the volume of suc-
tion (gulp of air). In case of little
or no suction, check the reserve tank,
vacuum check valve,
and fittings for
vacuum leaks.
If no trouble is found
in the vacuum source, install the
hose, making sure there are no kinks,
and check the power unit.
Check the air cleaner
to make
sure that it is clean and free of
restrictions. Remove the booster unit
This condition
may result from a
clogged booster air cleaner
or im-
proper master cylinder push rod ad-
justment. Refer to "Disassembly of
Booster Unit," Part 2-2, Section 4
for checking internal causes. Intern-
al causes may be a restricted
air
passage, sticky valve plunger, broken
valve return spring,
or the atmos-
pheric poppet valve stuck in a closed
position.
The air passages should be
checked for restrictions
and blown
out.
The valve plunger may be
This condition may result from a
broken poppet spring
or a sticking
poppet valve. Remove the booster
unit from the
car as described in
Part 2-2, Section 3. Remove the
booster body from the end plate,
and disassemble the booster piston.
(006)
from the car as described in Part
2-2, Section 3. Refer to "Disassem-
bly of Booster Unit," Part 2-2, Sec-
tion 4 for the internal checks that
follow. Remove the booster body
from the end plate,
and inspect the
internal vacuum hose to see that it
is properly installed and is not re-
stricted. If the hose is faulty, replace
it. Also, be sure the inside
of the
body
is clean. Inspect the booster
piston for faulty packing
and replace
if necessary. Inspect the piston plate
attaching bolts for looseness
and a
consequent vacuum leak. Tighten if
necessary. Also check the piston to
make sure it
is not jammed.
touched up lightly with crocus cloth.
Do not oil. Replace if necessary.
If the return spring is broken,
weak,
or distorted, it should be re-
placed. The booster piston must be
disassembled to locate
and correct
the cause
of a sticking poppet valve.
If the poppet valve appears faulty,
it should be replaced. Inspect the
vacuum check valve for faulty op-
eration. Be sure that the booster
piston
is free to move in its normal
stroke.
Refer to "Disassembly
of Booster
Unit" in Part 2-2, Section 4. If the
poppet return spring
is broken, weak
or disturbed, replace it. If the pop-
pet valve appears worn or bent, it
should be replaced.

(007)
PART
2-1 -GENERAL
BRAKE
SERVICE
2-3
TABLE 1-Brake
Trouble Symptoms
and Possible Causes
Trouble Symptoms
~T
~
~
(/)
>.
~
0.
> 0
ro
0
0()
Cl.
'
U":
~
c
-<
Possible Causes of
M
Oil
..:L
.b
.....
:.0
2
c:::
-0
t....
c
II)
0
t....
- c~
~
~
ro :;:;
II)
.::::
.D
z
a 0 '"0
::::l
-<
ro
Trouhlc Symptoms
~
0:
> 1-.
'"0 s
~
'"0
II)
..;:.G
0 0 u
::r;,
II)
'.>
..c:
r::
:5
..:.::
II)
'"0
0...
~./)
u u u
.:d
.....
0
~
~
v
...c
-~
0
1-.
0~
0
:ls
e
0...
>.
~
i/)
0
Vl
(/) (/)
0[)
Q..
II)
i/)
0 II)
g]
>,II)
~
co
~
§
II)
..::.:!
u
:§w:
.;.:: r/l..;:.G
..;:.G
;1
1-.
e u
ro
·- C':l
C':l
6
ro
0.
~
c
><
uo
Q;5
...c~
0 '-' 1-.
-<
::r:
Vl u 0
co
:..w
Q.. .....
e~:~O:: ZCl:l
CQ
Mechanical Resistance at Pedal or Sr'. t" I X X
1----
---i
Brake Line Rcstridcd X X X X
~----
Leaks or Insufficient Fluid
I X X X X
Improper Tirr Pressure
-------+
________ J X X
1mproperly Adjusted or Worn Whee'
ikaring:
! X X
-~----~-----
Distorted or Improperly Adjusted
Br.,
l' Shoe
l X X X X X X X
Faulty Retracting Spring
----·- ----t
X X
-t
Drum Out of Round
X X X
Lining Glazed or Worn
X X X X X X X
-----~--
Oil or Grease on lining
I X X X X X X
-~
Loose Carrier Plate
X X X
---- ----
Loose Lining
X
--1
Scored Drum X X
--------~
_____ , ______ '
Dirt on Drum-Lining Surface X
-~------~---
Faulty Brake Cylinder
X X X X
--1--
Dirty Brake Fluid
X X X X
--
-----------------
-------------
Faulty Master Cylmdcr
X X X X
-~------ ·---·---
Air in Hydraulic System
---1
X X X X
Self Adjusters Not Operating
X X
--- ~~--~-----
-~~----- ·- ---·--~-
Insufficient Shoe-to-Carncr Plate
Lur~ricatwn
X X X
r---·--------
~-----~-~~--
Tire Tread Worn
X
--------~---
Poor Lining to Drum Contact
X
------------
Loose Front Suspcnsi,,n
l'ul!' .... r t--
X
c--------~-------
~--
!------
------
---
--
"Threads'' J.eft h
Drum
Tun, in!.!
·I
i
Shoe" S1dcv. a\<
X
c----------------------
-i- ~-
--
Cracked
Drum
X

2-4 GROUP 2-BRAKES
EJ COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS ..
PARKING BRAKE
LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
Check the parking brake cables
when
the brakes are fully released.
If the cables are loose, adjust them
as follows:
1. Fully release the
parking brake
pedal by pushing down on the man-
ual release lever.
2. Raise the car.
3. Loosen the adjusting nut on
the equalizer rod, then turn the lock
nut in front of the equalizer several
turns forward (Fig. 15, Part 2-2,
Section
3).
4. Depress the parking brake pedal
slowly until the initial locking posi-
tion is obtained.
5. Turn the adjusting nut forward
against the equalizer until approxi-
mately 100 lbs.
of force at the out-
side
diameter of the tire is required
to turn the rear wheels.
6. Tighten the lock nut against
the equalizer.
7. Release the parking brake, and
check to make sure that the brake
shoes return to the fully released
position.
8. Depress
the parking brake pedal
with 100 lbs.
of pedal force.
9. Release the
parking brake again,
and check as in step 7.
10. If the rear brakes do not fully
release,
check the cables for kinks
or binds. Free the cables as required.
MASTER CYLINDER PUSH
ROD ADJUSTMENT·
The push rod is designed with a
self-locking adjustment screw
to pro-
vide the correct relationship between
the booster piston
and the master
cylinder piston. The adjustment
screw
is set to the correct height at
the time of the original assembly of
the power unit. Under normal serv-
ice the adjustment screw does not
require any further attention pro-
viding the push rod assembly re-
FIG. 1-Push Rod Adiustment
mains in the original unit. How-
ever, when a new push rod is used,
or the push rod assembly is trans-
ferred to
another unit, the distance
from the end of the adjustment
screw to
the mounting surface of
the booster body should be checked.
Use either a micrometer depth gauge
to a dimension
of 1.200 inch or a
height gauge as shown in Fig.
1.
The details for making a height
gauge
are given in Fig. 2.
After assembly of the master cyl-
inder to the power section, the piston
cup in the hydraulic cylinder should
just clear the compensating
port hole
when the
unit is in the fully released
position.
This can be checked by
placing a few drops of brake fluid
over the compensating
port and ap-
plying light air pressure to the out-
put port of the master cylinder. If
air bubbles appear, the port is open.
If the primary piston cup overlaps
the compensating port, there will be
no flow of air through the compen-
sating port.
If this condition exists,
the adjustment screw should be
turned into the push rod a slight
amount or until the compensating
port is open.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING
When any part of the hydraulic
system
has been disconnected for
repair or replacement, air may get
into
the lines and cause spongy pedal
action. Bleed
the hydraulic system
after it
has been properly connected
to be sure that all air is expelled
from the brake cylinders and lines.
The hydraulic system can be bled
manually
or with pressure bleeding
equipment.
MANUAL BLEEDING
Bleed the longest lines first. Keep
the
master cylinder reservoir filled
with new heavy-duty
brake fluid dur-
ing the bleeding operation.
Never use the brake fluid which
has been drained from the hy-
draulic system.
1. Position a 3 /s -inch box wrench
on the bleeder fitting on the right
rear brake wheel cylinder. Attach
a rubber drain tube to the bleeder
fitting.
The end of the tube should
fit snugly around the bleeder fit-
ting.
2. Submerge the free end of the
tube in a
container partially filled
(008)
# 15 OR # 16 U.S.S. GAUGE SHEET STEEl
I• 2·~------~~
i--r--ii
FIG. 2-Push Rod Gauge
Dimensions
H1087-B
with clean brake fluid, and loosen
the bleeder fitting approximately 3A
turn.
3. Push the brake pedal down
slowly through its full travel. Close
the bleeder fitting, then return the
.pedal
to the fully-released position.
Repeat this
operation until air bub-
bles cease to appear at the sub-
merged
end of the tube.
4. When the fluid is completely
free
of air bubbles, close the bleeder
fitting
and remove the drain tube.
5. Repeat this procedure at each
brake wheel cylinder in order: left
rear, right front, and left front. Re-
fill the master cylinder reservoir af-
ter each brake cylinder is bled and
when the bleeding operation is com-
pleted. The fluid level should be
within Vs -inch of the top of the
reservoir.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
Bleed the longest lines first. Never
use brake fluid which has been
drained from the hydraulic sys-
tem.
The bleeder tank should contain
enough new heavy-duty brake fluid
to complete
the bleeding operation,
and it should be charged with 10-
30
pounds of air pressure.
1. Clean all dirt from the master
cylinder reservoir cap.
2. Remove the master cylinder
reservoir cap, install an adapter cap
to the reservoir,
and attach the
bleeder tank hose to the fitting on
the adapter cap.
Adapter cap 2162 can be used,
or an adapter cap can be fabricated
by cutting a
hole in the center of a
filler
cap and soldering a fitting at
the hole.
3. Position a
Vs -inch box wrench
on the bleeder fitting on the right
rear brake wheel cylinder. Attach a

(009)
rubber drain tube to the bleeder fit-
ting.
The end of the tube should
fit snugly around the bleeder fit-
ting.
4. Open the valve on the bleeder
tank to admit pressurized brake
fluid to the master cylinder reservoir.
5. Submerge the free end of the
tube in a
container partially filled
PART 2-1-GENERAl BRAKE SERVICE
'vith clean brake fluid, and loosen
1he bleeder fitting.
(). When air bubbles cease to ap-
pear in the fluid at the submerged
end of the drain tube, close the
bleeder fitting and remove the tube.
7. Repeat this procedure at each
hrake wheel cylinder in order: left
rear, right
front, and left front.
EJ CLEANING AND INSPECTION
BRAKE ASSEMBLY
1. Remove the wheel from the
drum, then remove the drum as
outlined in
Part 2-2, Section 2. Wash
all the parts except the brake shoes
in a cleaning fluid
and dry w.ith com-
pressed air.
2. Brush all dust from the back-
ing plates and interior of the brake
drums.
3. Inspect the brake shoes for ex-
cessive lining wear or shoe damage.
If the lining is worn to within 1~1~
inch of the rivet heads or if the
shoes are damaged, they must he
replaced.
Replace any lining that has
been oil
saturated. Replace lining
in axle sets.
Prior to replacement
of lining, the drum diameter should
be checked to determine if oversize
linings
must be installed.
4.
Check the condition of the
brake shoes, retracting springs, and
drum for signs of overheating. If
'he springs show any loss of load or
-.:hange in free length indicating over-
~1eating, replacement of the retract-
mg and hold down springs is neces-
-;ary. Overheated springs lose their
pull and could cause the new lin-
ing to wear prematurely if they
are not replaced.
5. If the car has 40,000 or more
miles of operation, or signs of ex-
treme overheating are present when
relining brakes, the wheel cylinders
should be disassembled
and inspect-
ed for wear and dirt in the cylinder.
fhe cylinder cups should be replaced
!hus avoiding future problems.
(). Inspect all other brake parts
and replace any that are worn or
damaged.
7. Inspect: the brake drums and,
1f necessary, refinish. Refer to Part
2-2, Section 4 for refinishing.
BOOSTER UNIT
A disassembled view of the brake
EXPANDER AND PI
MASTER CYliNDER
PUSH ROD PISTON PACKING
REACTION
DISC
2-5
8. When the bleeding operation
is completed, close the bleeder tank
valve and remove the tank hose
from the adapter fitting.
9. Remove the adapter cap, .refill
the
master cylinder reservoir to with-
in
3,/s inch from the top of the
reservoir, and install the filler cap.
booster is shown in Fig. 3.
After disassembly, immerse all
metal parts in a suitable solvent.
Use only alcohol on rubber parts or
parts containing rubber. After the
parts have been thoroughly cleaned
and rinsed in cleaning solvent, the
metal parts which come in contact
with hydraulic brake fluid or rub-
ber parts should be rewashed in clean
alcohol before assembly. Use an air
hose to blow dirt and cleaning fluid
from the recesses and internal pas-
sages.
When overhauling a power
booster, use all parts furnished in
the
repair kit. Discard all old rub-
ber parts.
Inspect all other parts for dam-
age or excessive wear. Replace dam-
aged or excessively worn parts. If
the inside of the booster body is
rusted or corroded, polish it with
steel wool or fine emery cloth. Re-
place the body shell when scored.
8 SELF-TAPPING SCREWS
__ / RUBBER BOOT
- _J~
-- J-
...... -........ ..... __
GASKET (.
RING
VACUUM TUBE
AND PLATE
PLATE
VACUUM HOSE
BOOSTER BODY
POPPET Rf TURN SPRING H12412-A
FIG. 3-Booster Unit Disassembled

2-6
PART
2·2
(010}
BRAKE SYSTEM
Section Page
Section Page
1 Description and Operation ................. 2-6 3 Removal and Installation
.................. 2-13
2 In-Car Adjustments and Repairs
............. 2-8 4 Major Repair Operations
.................. 2-16
D DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
HYDRAULIC SELF-ADJUSTING
BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake system on
the 1964 Lincoln employs single
anchor, internal expanding and self-
adjusting brake assemblies which
are powered by a vacuum booster
as standard equipment.
The master cylinder converts phys-
ical force from the brake pedal and
booster into hydraulic pressure
against the pistons in the wheel cylin-
ders. The wheel cylinder pistons in
turn convert hydraulic pressure back
into physical force at the brake
shoes.
The self-adjusting brake mechan-
REAR
BRAKE
ism consists of a cable, cable guide,
adjusting lever, and adjuster spring
(Fig.
1). The cable is hooked over
the anchor pin at the top and
is con-
nected to the lever at the bottom.
The cable
is connectd to the second-
ary brake shoe by means of the cable
guide. The adjuster spring
is hooked
to the primary brake shoe and
to the
lever. The automatic adjuster oper-
ates only when the brakes are ap-
plied while the
car is moving rear-
ward and only when the secondary
shoe
is free to move toward the
drum beyond a predetermined point.
With the
car moving rearward and
the brakes applied, the "wrap-
around" action of the shoes follow-
FIG •. 1-Lincoln Self-Adiusting Bralc:e Assemblies
ing the drum forces the upper end
of the primary shoe against the
anchor pin.
The action of the wheel
cylinder moves the upper end
of the
secondary shoe away from the an-
chor pin. The movement of the sec-
ondary shoe causes the cable to pull
the adjusting lever upward and
against the end
of a tooth on the ad-
justing screw star wheel. The up-
ward travel of the lever increases as
lining wear increases. When
the
lever can move upward far enough,
it passes over the end of the tooth
and engages the tooth. When the
brakes are released, the adjusting
spring pulls the lever downward
causing the star wheel to
tum and
H1278-A

(011)
FIG. 2-Booster in Released Position
expand the shoes. The star wheel is
turned one tooth at a time as the
linings progressively wear.
With the car moving forward and
the brakes applied, the secondary
shoe is against the anchor pin and
the
primary shoe is moved toward
the drum. Therefore, the adjuster
does
not operate.
The rear brake assembly is basic-
ally the
same as the front brake. The
conventional parking brake lever,
link,
and spring are used in the rear
brake.
The anchor pins on all brakes are
fixed
and non-adjustable.
VACUUM PORT
(OPEN)
ATMOSPHERIC
PORT
(CLOSED)
FIG. 3-Booster in Applied Position
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM
D ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
DvAcuuM
§ HYDRAULIC FLUID
H1067-C
BOOSTER SYSTEM
The booster assembly (Figs. 2 and
3) is mounted on the engine side
of the dash panel. A vacuum reser-
voir,
mounted on the left front fen-
der splash shield, gets its
vacuum
from the engine intake manifold.
When the engine is stopped, a check
valve traps vacuum in the reservoir.
The vacuum reservoir maintains
enough vacuum (after the engine has
stopped) for several power-assisted
brake applications. Should the power
unit fail, the car can still be braked,
although greater pedal pressure by
the driver will be necessary for a
given application.
~ HYDRAULIC FLUID
D HYDRAULIC FLUID PRESSURE
H1077-C
t
MANUAL RELEASE
HANDLE
FIG. 4-Parking Brake
Control Assembly
2-7
H1292-A
The chamber in back of the boost-
er piston is at all times open to at-
mospheric pressure through an air
cleaner. When the pedal is in the
released position, the valve return
spring holds the valve operating rod
and plunger back against the piston
rear plate leaving the atmospheric
port open and the vacuum port
closed (Fig. 2) . The atmospheric
pressure in the rear chamber is free
to pass
through the open· atmospheric
port of the valve and the porting in
the piston to the chamber area in
front of the piston. The booster pis-
ton is, therefore, balanced in atmos-
phere (atmospheric pressure on both
sides) and does not move.
FIG. 5-Parking Brake
Locking and Release Mechanism

2-8
VACUUM
JUNCTION
BLOCK
TO ENGINE
MANIFOLD
VACUUM
===•
H1286·A
FIG. 6- Vacuum
Connections for Automatic
Parking Brake Release
As the brake pedal is depressed
(Fig. 3
), the valve operating rod and
plunger move forward against the
poppet valve to close the atmospheric
port.
Further travel of the rod and
plunger moves the poppet away from
the vacuum seat to open the vacuum
port
and establish direct connection
between the intake manifold
(or res-
ervoir) through the porting in the
valve
and piston to the forward
chamber. As vacuum removes air
from the forward chamber, atmos-
pheric pressure behind the booster
piston exerts the force against the
hydraulic push rod and piston that
supplies the power assist. The amount
of assist supplied by the power unit
is always directly proportional to the
amount
of pressure being supplied
to the pedal.
Gradual application of
the brakes is thus possible.
GROUP 2-BRAKES
PARKING BRAKES
An independent foot- operated
parking
brake control actuates the
rear wheel brake shoes through a
cable linkage.
The operating cable is
routed from the parking brake con-
trol assembly to the equalizer lever
which is attached to the equalizer
assembly.
The rear brake cables con-
nect the equalizer assembly to the
parking brake lever at each rear sec-
ondary shoe (Figs. 15 and 17).
When the pedal is depressed the
secondary brake shoes are forced
against the
rear brake drums. The
pedal is held in the applied position
by the wedging action of a steel
roller between a friction block
and
a ramp in the control assembly
(Fig.
4).
A vacuum power unit will release
the parking brakes automatically
when the transmission selector lever
is moved into any drive position with
the engine running.
The brakes will
not release automatically, however,
when the selector lever is in the
neutral
or park position with the
engine running, or in any position
with the engine off.
The parking brake control assem-
bly is mounted to a bracket on the
dash panel to the left
of the steering
column (Fig.
15). The pedal assem-
bly pivots on the stationary pedal
mount (Fig. 4). A steel roller and
friction block
are assembled to the
upper end of the pedal. A steel
ramp is atta£;hed to the pedal mount
in such
manner that the roller is
positioned between the friction block
and the ramp (Fig. 5). The angle
of the friction block with respect to
EJ IN-CAR ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENTS
The car should be in a raised posi-
tion with the wheels off the floor.
If the car is raised on a frame-
contact hoist, disconnect the park-
ing brake cables to prevent the
rear brakes from being partially
applied due to rear axle and spring
sag on the hoist.
The hydraulic service brakes are
self-adjusting and require a manual
adjustment only
after the brake shoes
have been relined, replaced,
or when
the length
of the adjusting screw has
been changed while performing some
other service operation.
The brake drums should be at
normal room temperature when ad-
justing the brake shoes. If the shoes
are adjusted when the drurns are
hot
and expanded, the shoes may drag
when the drums are cool and con-
tracted.
1. After the shoes have been in-
stalled or the adjusting screw has
been turned, install the drum. Be
sure that all excess grease, oil,
and
other foreign material are wiped off
the backing plate and drum.
Before installing the brake drum
on the front wheel spindle, wipe
the
spindle completely free of grease.
Install the
drum carefully so that
the grease seal retainers within the
hub will not be damaged.
(012)
the ramp is such that the roller will
ride
on the ramp as the pedal is de-
pressed; however, when the applying
motion stops
and the pedal starts to
release, the roller becomes wedged
between the friction block
and the
ramp thus locking the brakes in the
applied position. Since the roller
is
mounted in the release lever, a slight
movement
of the release ·lever will
force the roller
out of its wedged
position allowing the brakes to re-
lease. The release lever is actuated
automatically
by the vacuum control
or by the manual release handle
which
is connected to the lever.
The vacuum power unit with
mounting
bracket is riveted to the
control assembly.
The vacuum act-
uated piston within the unit is con-
nected by a link to the upper end of
the release handle which actuates the
release lever
to move the steel roller
out of the locked position (Figs. 4
and 5). The lower end of the release
handle extends
out for alternate
manual release in the event
of a
vacuum power failure
or for optional
manual release at any time.
Hoses connect the power unit and
the engine manifold to a vacuum re-
lease valve in the transmission neu-
tral switch( Figs. 4 and 6). Moving
the transmission selector lever into
any drive position with the engine
running will open the release valve
to connect engine manifold vacuum
to one side
of the actuating piston
in the power unit.
The pressure dif-
ferential thus created will cause the
piston and link to pull the man-
ual release handle which, in turn,
actuates the release lever.
2. Remove the adjusting hole
cover from the backing plate and,
from the backing plate side, turn
the adjusting screw upward to ex-
pand the shoes (Fig. 7). Expand the
shoes until a slight drag
is felt when
the
drum is rotated.
3. Remove the drum. Mark the
tooth
on the star wheel where the
lever contacts the adjusting screw.
While holding the adjusting lever out
of engagement with the adjusting
screw, back off the adjusting screw
with a 3
A turn with the fingers. If
finger movement will not turn the
screw, free it up; otherwise, the self-
adjusting lever will not turn the
screw. Lubricate the screw with a

(013)
H1315-A
FIG. 7-Expanding Brake Shoes
thin uniform coating of Stanolube~
HD Molv Grease-Grade 2.
Any other adjustment procedure
may cause damage to the adjusting
screw with consequent self-ad-
juster problems.
4. Apply a small quantity of high-
temperature grease to the points
where the shoes contact the backing
plate, being careful not to get the
lubricant on the linings. Install the
drum.
On front wheels, install the wheel
outer bearing, washer, and adjusting
nut, then adjust the wheel bearings
as outlined in Part 3-1, Section 2.
On rear wheels, install the three
Tinnerman nuts and tighten securely.
5. Install the wheel on the drum
and tighten the mounting nuts to
specification.
6. Install
the adjusting hole cover
on the brake backing plate.
7.
When adjusting the rear brake
shoes, check the parking brake
cables for proper adjustment. Make
sure that the equalizer lever oper-
ates freely.
8.
After the brake shoes have been
properly adjusted, check the oper-
ation of the brakes.
FRONT BRAKE DRUM
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car w that the wheel
is clear of the floor.
2. Remove the hub cab, and re-
move the wheel from the drum. Re-
move the
bearing dust cap, cotter
pin, nut lock, adjusting nut, and
washer.
3. Pull
the brake drum approxi-
mately two inches outward and push
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM
back into position. Remove the
wheel bearing and withdraw the
brake drum.
If the brake drum will not come
off easily, insert a narrow screw-
driver through the brake adjusting
hole in the backing plate, and dis-
engage the adjusting lever from
the adjusting screw. While thus
holding the adjusting lever away
from the adjusting screw, back off
the adjusting screw with the brake
adjusting tool2018-A (Fig. 8). Back
off the adjustment only if the drum
cannot be removed easily. Be very
careful not to burr, chip, or dam-
agE~ the notches in the adjusting
screw; otherwise, the self-adjusting
mechanism will not function prop-
erly. If the adjustment was changed,
make sure that the adjuster lever
seal'> properly in the shoe web.
INSTALLATION
1. lf the drum is being replaced,
remove the protective coating from
the new drum with carburetor de-
greaser. Install new bearings and a
grease
retainer. Soak the new grease
retainer in light engine oil at least
30 minutes before installation. Pack
the wheel bearings, install the inner
bearing cone and roller assembly in
the inner cup, and install the new
grease retainer. See Part 3-1, Sec-
tion 2 ..
lf the original drum is being in-
stalled, make sure that the grease in
the hub is clean and adequate.
2. Install the drum assembly, outer
wheel bearing, washer and adjusting
nut.
3. Adjust the wheel bearing as
outlined in Part 3-1, Section 2, then
install the nut lock, cotter pin and
the grease cap.
,t Install the wheel and hub cap.
If the adjustment was backed off,
adjust the brake as outlined under
''Brake Shoe Adjustment".
REAR BRAKE DRUM
REMOVAL
1. Raise the car so that the wheel
is dear of the floor.
2. Remove the hub cap and wheel.
Remove the three Tinncrman nuts
and remove the brake drum.
If the brake drum will not come
off, insert a narrow screwdriver
through the brake adjusting hole in
the hacking plate, and disengage the
adJusting lever from the adjusting
screw. While thus holding the ad-
2-9
MOVE HANDLE
UPWARDS
FIG. 8-Bac:king off
Brake Adiustment
H1144-A
justing lever away from the adjust-
ing screw, back off the adjusting
screw with the brake adjusting tool
(Fig. 8).
Back off the adjustment only if
the drum cannot be removed
easily. Be very careful not to burr,
chip, or damage the notches in the
adjusting screw; otherwise, the
self-adjusting mechanism will not
function properly.
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the protective coating
from a new drum with carburetor
degreaser.
2. Place the drum over the brake
assembly and into position. Install
the three Tinnerman nuts and tighten
securely.
3. Install
the wheel. If the adjust-
ment was backed off, adjust the
brake as outlined under "Brake Shoe
Adjustments".
BRAKE SHOES AND
ADJUSTING SCREW
REMOVAL
1. With the wheel and drum re-
moved, install a
clamp over the ends
T
LM-119
FIG. 9-Retrading
Spring Removal
H1281-A

2-10
of the brake cylinder as shown in
Fig. 9.
2. Contract the shoes as follows:
a. Disengage the adjusting lever
from the adjusting screw by pulling
backward on the adjusting lever
(Fig.
1).
b. Move the outboard side of the
adjusting screw upward and back off
the pivot nut and as far as it will go.
3. Pull the adjusting lever, cable
and automatic adjuster spring down
and toward the rear to unhook the
pivot hook from the large hole in the
secondary shoe web. Do not attempt
to pry the pivot hook out of the
hole.
4. Remove the automatic adjuster
spring
and adjusting lever (Fig. 1).
5. Remove the primary shoe to
anchor spring with the tool shown in
Fig. 9.
With the same tool, remove
the secondary shoe
to anchor spring
and unhook the cable eye from the
anchor pin.
6. Remove the anchor pin plate
and the anti-rattle clip. -
7. Remove the cable guide from
the secondary shoe (Fig. 1).
8. Remove the shoe hold down
springs, shoes, adjusting screw, pivot
nut, and socket.
9. On rear brakes, remove the
parking brake link and spring. Dis-
connect the parking brake cable
from the parking brake lever.
10. After removing the rear brake
secondary shoe, disassemble the
parking brake lever from the shoe
by removing the retaining clip
and
spring washer (Fig. 1).
INSTALLATION
1. Back off the parking brake ad-
justment.
2. Before installing the rear brake
shoes, assemble the parking brake
lever to the secondary shoe and
secure with the spring washer and
retaining clip.
3. Apply a light coating of high-
temperature grease at the points
where the
brake shoes contact the
backing plate.
4. Position the brake shoes on the
backing plate and secure the assem-
bly with the hold down springs. On
the rear brake, install the parking
brake link and spring. Connect the
parking brake cable to the parking
brake lever (Fig. 1).
5. Install the anti-rattle clip and
the anchor pin plate on the anchor
pin.
6. Place the cable eye over the
GROUP 2-BRAKES
FIG. 10-Retrading
Spring Installation
H1280-A
anchor pin with the crimped side
toward the backing plate.
7. Install the cable guide on the
secondary shoe web with the flanged
hole fitted into the hole
in the sec-
ondary shoe web. Thread the cable
around the cable guide groove (Fig.
1).
It is imperative that the cable
be positioned in this groove and
not between the guide and the shoe
web.
8. Install the secondary shoe to
anchor spring (Fig. 10).
9. Install the primary shoe to an-
chor spring with the tool shown in
Fig. 10.
Be certain that the cable eye is
not cocked or binding on the an-
chor pin when installed. All parts
should be flat on the anchor pin.
Remove the brake cylinder clamp.
10. Apply high-temperature grease
(
Stanalube-HD Moly Grease-Grade
2) to the threads and the socket end
of the adjusting screw. Turn the ad-
justing screw into the adjusting pivot
nut to the limit of the threads and
then back off 112 turn.
Interchanging the brake shoe
adjusting screw assemblies from
one side of the car to the other
would cause the brake shoes to
retract rather than expand each
FIG. 11-Adiusting
Screws and Lever Identification
(014)
time the automatic adjusting
mechanism operated. To prevent
installation
on the wrong side of the
car, the socket end of the adjusting
screw is
stamped with an R or L
(Fig. 11). The adjusting pivot nuts
can be distinguished by the number
of grooves machined around the
body of the nut. Two grooves indi-
cate a right hand nut; one groove
indicates a left
hand nut.
11. Place the adjusting socket on
the screw and install this assembly
between
the shoe ends with the ad-
justing screw toothed wheel nearest
the secondary shoe.
12.
Hook the cable hook into the
hole in the adjusting lever. The ad-
justing levers are stamped with an
R or L to indicate their installation
on a right or left hand brake assem-
bly (Fig. 11).
13. Position the hooked end of the
adjuster spring completely into the
large hole in the primary shoe web.
The last coil of the spring should
be at the edge of the hole. Connect
the loop end of the spring to the
adjuster lever hole (Fig. 1).
14. Pull the adjuster lever, cable
and automatic adjuster spring down
and toward the rear to engage the
pivot
hook in the large hole in the
secondary shoe web (Fig.
1).
15. After installation, check the
action of the adjuster by pulling the
section
of the cable between the
cable guide and the adjusting lever
toward the secondary shoe web far
enough to lift the lever past a tooth
on the adjusting screw wheel. The
lever should snap into position be-
hind the next tooth, and release of
the cable should cause the adjuster
spring
to return the lever to its 9rigi-
nal position. This return action of
the lever will turn the adjusting screw
one tooth.
If pulling the cable does not pro-
duce the action described, or if the
lever action is sluggish instead of
positive and sharp, check the posi-
tion
of the lever on the adjusting
screw toothed wheel.
With the brake
in a vertical position (anchor at the
top) , the lever should contact the
adjusting wheel o/J.r. inch (± %2 inch)
above the centerline of the screw.
If the contact point is below this
centerline,
the lever will not lock on
the teeth in the adjusting screw wheel,
and the screw will not be turned as
the lever is actuated by the cable.
To determine the cause of this
condition:
a. Check the cable end fittings.

(015)
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM
BLEEDER VALVE
PISTON /
BOOT L
\ ~·. ~(.0 PlST\ T
-1 ·~I , · .. ~.~•c&:J
I "'' t .: .. · I c'!' J"
LINK CUP CYLINDER SPRING BOOT H1295-A
FIG. 12-Wheel Cylinder
The cable should completely fill or
extend slightly beyond the crimped
section
of the fittings. If it does not
meet this specification, possible dam-
age is indicated and the cable assem-
bly should be replaced.
b. Check the cable length.
The
cable should measure 11 'h inches
(± lko~ inch) from the end of the
cable
anchor to the end of the cable
hook.
c. Check the cable guide for dam-
age. The cable groove should be
parallel to the shoe web,
and the
body
of the guide should lie flat
against the web. Replace the guide
if it shows damage.
d. Check the pivot hook
on the
lever.
The hook surfaces should be
square with the body
of the lever
for proper pivoting. Replace the
lever if the hook shows damage.
e. See
that the adjusting screw
socket
is properly seated in the notch
in the shoe web.
WHEEL CYLINDER REPAIR
DISASSEMBLY
V Remove the links and the rub-
ber boots from the ends of the brake
cylinder. Remove the pistons, cups,
and return spring from the cylinder
bore (Fig.
12).
2. Remove the bleeder screw from
the cylinder.
INSPECTION
1. Wash all parts in clean de-
natured alcohol. 1f alcohol is not
available, use specified brake fluid.
Dry with compressed air.
2. Check all internal parts for ex-
cessive wear or damage. If any of
the internal parts require replac-
ing, all should be replaced.
3. Inspect the cylmder bore for
score marks
or rust. lf either con-
dition is present, the cylinder bore
must be honed.
However, the cylin-
der should not be honed more than
0.003 inch beyond its original di-
ameter.
4. Check the bleeder hole to be
sure that it is open.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply a coating of heavy-duty
brake fluid to all internal parts.
2. Thread the bleeder screw into
the cylinder
and tighten securely.
3. Insert the return spring, cups,
and pistons into their respective posi-
tions in the cylinder bore (Fig. 12).
Place a boot over each end of the
cylinder.
WHEEL CYLINDER
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. With the wheel in a raised posi-
tion, remove the wheel and the drum.
2. Remove the brake shoe assem-
blies following procedures outlined
in this section.
3. Disconnect the brake line from
the
brake cylinder. Be sure the en-
gine is stopped and there is no
vacuum in the booster system be-
fore disconnecting the hydraulic
lines.
To disconnect the hose at a front
cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that
connects the opposite end
of the hose
to the brake tube at a bracket on
the frame. Remove the horseshoe-
type retaining clip from the hose and
bracket, disengage the hose from the
bracket, then unscrew
the entire hose
assembly from the front brake cylin-
der.
At a rear cylinder, unscrew the
tube fitting
that connects the tube to
the cylinder.
Do not pull the metal
tube away from the cylinder. Pull-
ing the tube out of the cylinder
connection will bend the metal
tube and make installation diffi-
cult. The tube will separate from
the cylinder when the cylinder
is re-
moved from the backing plate.
2-11
4. Remove the brake cylinder re-
taining bolts and lock washers and
remove the cylinder. Remove the
clamp from
the cylinder.
INSTALLATION
Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic
line to remove any foreign matter
before making connections.
1.
To install a front cylinder:
a. Insert the front cylinder into
the opening
on the backing
plate with the inlet toward
the
rear of the car. Install
the retaining bolts
and lock
washers.
b. Install a new copper gasket
over
the hose fitting. Screw
the hose assembly into the
cylinder.
c. Engage the opposite end
of
the hose to the bracket on
the frame, install the horse-
shoe-type retaining clip, and
connect the brake tube to
the hose with the tube fitting
nut. Tighten the
nut to
specification.
2. To install a rear cylinder:
a. Place the rear wheel cylin-
der into position. Enter the
tubing into the cylinder, and
start the tube fitting nut into
the threads
of the cylinder.
b. Secure
the cylinder to the
backing plate by installing
the retaining bolts
and lock
washers.
c. Tighten the tube fitting nut
to specification.
3. Install the links in the ends of
the brake cylinder, install the shoe
and adjuster assemblies, and adjust
the shoes as outlined in this section.
4. Install the brake drum and
wheel, and bleed the brakes as out-
lined in Part 2-1, Section 2.
BRAKE BACKING PLATE
REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
1. Remove the wheel and brake
drum. Disconnect the brake line
from the brake cylinder.
2. Remove the brake shoe and ad-
juster assemblies and the wheel cylin-
der as outlined in this section. On
the rear wheels, disconnect the park-
ing brake lever from the cable.
3.
If the rear backing plate is be-
ing replaced, rotate the axle shaft
so that the hole in the axle shaft

2-12
FIG. 13-Service Brake System
flange lines up with the backing plate
retaining nuts, and remove the nuts.
Pull the axle shaft assembly out of
the housing with tool 4235C and a
slide hammer (Par.t 4-2), then re-
move the backing plate.
If the front backing plate is being
replaced, remove the bolts and nuts
that secure the plate to the front
wheel spindle and remove the plate.
INSTALLATION
1. Position a new rear backing
plate
on the retaining bolts in the
axle housing flange. Insert the axle
shaft into the housing so that the
splines engage the differential side
gear with the bearing retainer sliding
onto the retaining bolts
and against
the backing plate. Install the retain-
ing nuts through the access hole in
the axle shaft flange.
Position a new front backing plate
to the wheel spindle and' install the
retaining bolts and nuts.
2. Install the wheel cylinder and
connect the brake line
as outlined in
this section.
GROUP 2--BRAKES
3. Install the brake shoe and ad-
juster assemblies as outlined in this
section. On a
rear brake, connect the
parking brake cable to the lever. In-
stall the brake drum and wheel.
4. Adjust the brake shoes and
bleed the
brake system as outlined
in this section.
HYDRAULIC Ll NES
Steel tubing is used throughout
the brake system with the exception
of the flexible hoses at the front
wheels and at the rear axle housing
brake tube connector (Fig.
13).
Always bleed the entire system
after any hose or line replacement.
BRAKE TUBE REPLACEMENT
If a section of the brake tubing
becomes damaged, the entire section
should be replaced with tubing
of
the same type, size, shape, and
length. Copper tubing should not
be used in a hydraulic system.
When bending brake tubing to fit
underbody
or rear axle contours, be
careful not to kink or crack the tube.
(016)
~~FRONT END
RETAININTcup--j';\ HOSE
TOMAINJ~~ )
~BRACKET
H1289-A
All brake tubing should be flared
properly to provide good leak-proof
connections. Clean the brake tubing
by flushing with clean denatured
alcohol before installation.
When connecting a tube to a hose,
tube connector,
or brake cylinder,
tighten the tube fitting
nut to the
specified torque with Milbar tool
1112-144 or equivalent.
BRAKE HOSE REPLACEMENT
A flexible brake hose should be
replaced if it shows signs
of soften-
ing, cracking, or other damage.
When installing a new front brake
hose, position the hose to avoid con-
tact with other chassis parts. Place a
new copper gasket over the hose
fitting and screw the hose assembly
into the front
brake cylinder. Engage
the opposite end
of the hose to the
bracket on the frame so that the
hose
is ¥s -% inch from the lower
flange
of the No. 2 cross member
with the suspension at normal posi-
tion (Fig. J 3). Install the horse-
shoe-type retaining clip, and connect

(017)
the tube to the hose with the tube
fitting nut.
A
rear brake hose should be in-
stalled so that it does not touch the
muffler outlet pipe or shock absorber.
PART 2-2- BRAKE SYSTEM
Place a new gasket over the rear
hose fitting and screw the hose as-
sembly into the rear brake tube con-
nector. Engage the front end of the
hose
to the bracket on the frame so
El REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
MASTER CYLINDER
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground
cable.
2. Remove the hydraulic line out-
let fitting from the master cylinder.
3.
Disconnect the stop light switch
wires.
It is not necessary to remove
the stop light switch.
4. Remove the two nuts and lock
washers
that secure the master cylin-
der to the booster unit (Fig. 14).
Separate the master cylinder from
the booster unit and make sure that
the master cylinder does not rest on
the push rod.
5. Remove the rubber seal from
the
outer groove at the end of the
master cylinder.
6. Remove the push rod from the
power unit. Do not disturb the ad-
justing screw.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply a light coating of lubri-
cant COAZ-19584-A to the piston
end of the hydraulic push rod and
guide the piston end of the push rod
into the center bore of the booster
piston.
2. Twist the push rod to make cer-
tain the rnd of the piston is bot-
FIG. 14-Master Cylinder
ond Booster Installation
tamed against the reaction disc and
there is no air pocket between the
end of the push rod and the reaction
disc.
:t Before proceeding with the in-
stallation, check the distance from
the outer end of the push rod to the
master cylinder mounting surface at
the end of the vacuum cylinder
(Part 2-1, Fig. 1). This dimension
should be from 1.175 to 1.180 inch
measured metal to metal. If the push
rod dimension is not correct, see
"Master Cylinder Push Rod Adjust-
ment", Part 2-1, Section 2.
4. When the push rod adjustment
is correct, replace the rubber seal in
the
groove at the end of the master
cylinder.
5.
Position the master cylinder
over the push rod onto the two studs
that are integral with the booster
body.
6. Install the attaching nuts and
lock washers and torque the nuts to
specifications.
7. Replace the stop 1ight switch
wires.
8. Install the master cylinder hy-
draulic line outlet fitting.
9. Bleed the brake system. Fill the
ma<>ter cylinder to V<l-lh inch from
the top of the filler opening. Replace
the filler cap and gasket.
10.
Connect the battery ground
cable.
BOOSTER UNIT
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground
cable.
2. Remove the three retaining
bolts, nut and washer, and remove
the two left side fender apron··to-
cowl braces for access (Fig. 14).
3. From inside the car, remove
the six retaining screws and the in-
strument panel lower outer extension
from the
underside of the instru-
ment panel.
Before
removing the lower outer
extension from cars equipped with
:1 speed control, remove the control
head (two retaining screws) from
the
underside of the instrument
2-13
that the hose bends are in a plane
between the bracket and connector.
Install the horseshoe-type retaining
clip, and connect the tube to the
hose with the tube fitting nut.
panel. Disconnect the light and wire
(plug-in connector) from the control
lead.
4. Remove the C-washer that re-
tains the brake pedal to booster push
rod (Fig. 16), and disconnect the
rod from the pedal. Remove the
nylon bushings from the rod.
5. Loosen the hood release handle-
to-bracket lock nut, and remove the
release handle and cable assembly
from the bracket to obtain clearance
for removing the booster retaining
nuts.
6. Remove the five retaining nuts
from the booster mounting studs at
the passenger side of the dash panel.
7. From under the hood, discon~
nect the vacuum hose from the
booster and remove the booster as-
sembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the booster assembly on
the engine side of the dash panel.
The mounting studs and valve rod
go through the holes in the dash
paneL
2. Connect the vacuum hose to
the booster. A
new clamp will be
required.
3. From inside the car, install the
booster retaining nuts on the mount-
ing studs and torque them to specifi-
cations.
4. Install the nylon bushings in
the eye of the push rod. Use grease
to
lubricate the bushings.
5.
Connect the push rod to the
brake pedal assembly and secure
with the C-washer (Fig. 16).
6. Position the hood release handle
and cable assembly in the bracket at
the bottom of the instrument panel,
and tighten the lock nut.
7. Position the lower outer exten-
sion assembly
to the underside of
the instrument panel and secure with
six
attaching screws.
On cars equipped with a speed
control,
connect the light and wire
(plug-in
connector) to the control
head. M aunt the control head to the
underside
of the instrument panel
and secure with two screws.

2-14
\
""'
GROUP 2-BRAKES
PARKING BRAKE
CONTROL ASSEMBLY
MOUNTING BRACKET
H1287-A
FIG. 15-Parking Brake Control and Linkage Connections
8. Connect the vacuum hose to
the booster
and secure with the hose
clamp.
9. Install the two left side fender
apron-to-cowl braces and secure in
place with the three retaining bolts,
nut, and washer.
10. Connect the battery ground
cable.
11. Bleed the brakes as detailed
in
Part 2-1, Section 2.
VACUUM RESERVOIR
REMOVAL
1. Raise the front of the car.
2. Loosen the clamp and discon-
nect the vacuum hose at the reservoir
fitting.
3. Remove the two reservoir
bracket retaining screws and remove
the reservoir.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the reservoir, and se-
cure it with the two bracket retaining
screws.
2. Install the hose and new clamp
on the reservoir fitting and tighten
the clamp.
3. Lower the front of the car.
PARKING BRAKE
CONTROL ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the parking brake
cable from the equalizer lever under-
neath .rhe car (Figs. 15 and 17).
2. Disconnect and remove the sup-
port rod from the parking brake
control assembly and the service
brake pedal support bracket (Fig.
15).
3. Remove the control assembly-
to-mounting bracket screws.
4. Disconnect the hose from the
vacuum power unit.
5.
With the parking brake in the
fully released position, remove the
cotter pin and clevis pin.
6. Disconnect the operating cable
from the clevis, and remove the con-
trol assembly.
INSTALLATION
1. Attach the parking brake cable
to the clevis on the control assembly
FIG. 16-Brake Pedal and Related Parts
(018)
and secure with the clevis pin and
cotter pin (Fig. 15).
2. Connect the hose to the vacuum
power unit.
3.
Position the parking brake con-
trol assembly to the mounting brack-
et on the dash panel, and install the
mounting screws.
4. Connect the support rod to the
parking brake control assembly and
to the service brake pedal support
bracket.
5. From underneath the car, con-
nect the ball end of the operating
cable to the equalizer lever.
6. Adjust the parking brake link-
age.
7. Check the operation of the
automatic release.
PARKING BRAKE VACUUM
POWER UNIT
REMOVAL
1. Remove the parking brake con-
trol assembly from the car as de-
scribed under "Removal" in the
foregoing procedure.
2. Drill out or grind off the two
rivets that retain the vacuum power
unit to the parking brake control
assembly.
3. Drill
out or grind off the rivet
that connects the vacuum piston link
to
the release lever, and remove the
power unit.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the vacuum power unit
on the parking brake control as-
sembly and secure with two round
head bolts and nuts.
2. Connect the vacuum piston link
to the release 1ever with a sho~lder
H1290-A

(019)
bolt nut and wave washer. The wave
washer is positioned on the shoulder
bolt between the vacuum piston link
and the release lever. The link and
release lever must pivot freely.
3. Install
the parking brake con-
trol assembly in the car as described
under "Installation" in the fore-
going
procedure.
4. Test the lock and automatic
release operations of the parking
brake control assembly with the
engine running in all the transmission
selector lever positions.
With the
engine
running, the parking brake
should remain engaged in neutral or
park and should release in any drive
position.
BRAKE PEDAL
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery ground
cable.
PART 2-2-BRAKE SYSTEM
2. From inside the car, remove
the six retaining screws and the in-
strument panel lower outer extension
from the underside of the instrument
panel.
Before
removing the lower outer
extension from cars equipped with a
speed
control, remove the control
head (two retaining screws) from
the underside of the instrument
panel. Disconnect the light and wire
(plug-in
connector) from the con-
trol lead.
3. Remove the C-washer that re-
tains
the push rod to the brake pedal
assembly
(Fig. 16), and disconnect
the rod from the pedal. Remove the
bushings from the rod.
4. Remove the nut from the brake
pedal pivot bolt.
5.
On cars equipped with air con-
ditioning, remove the air condition-
ing icing switch, motor and bracket.
ARMOR EXTENDS FORWARD OF CLAMP
l 5fs II lf4 , ON RIGHT SIDE
2 Ya
11
:j~
1
/4 " ON LEFT ~
/
EQUAliZER-TO-REAR
-----
'EQUALIZER-TO-CONTROL CABLE STOP
FIG. 17 -Parking Brake System
2-15
Remove the pivot bolt and the brake
pedal assembly from the support
bracket.
INSTALLATION
1. Position the brake pedal assem-
bly in the
support bracket and install
the pivot
bolt and nut. Install the
air conditioning icing switch, motor
and bracket assembly on cars so
equipped.
2. Install the nylon bushings in the
eye of the push rod. Lubricate the
bushings. Connect the push rod to
the brake pedal assembly and secure
with the C-washer (Fig. 16).
3. Position the hood release
handle and cable assembly in the
bracket at the bottom of the instru-
ment panel, and tighten the lock nut.
4. Position the lower outer ex-
tension assembly
to the underside of
HORSE SHOE CLIP
H1288-A