Sunshine Me 163 M 1:3,5 Instruction Manual

Sunshine Modellbau Germany
Building Instructions
Me 163 M 1:3,5
Dear customer,
Thank you for choosing our kit of the Me-163B. We ask you to read the instruction once in
advance before building this kit in order to avoid mistakes. Make sure that you identify
which photos accompany which step of the build before you start. Please keep in mind that
this is a model airplane suited for turbines of up to 16 Kg of thrust. Please beware that all
parts used in the construction of this kit have to be strong and large enough. Sunshine
Modell is making an effort to keep the kit as light as possible while not making any
compromises regarding the stability of the airplane. In order to keep the assembly of the
components as straightforward as possible we deliver all GRP parts with a clear coat instead
of a colored gel coat. This way you have the opportunity to check all fits and glue-joints. The
wings are preassembled except for the rudder assembly, the slats and servo-trays.
Construction section:
Wings, fuselage, RC
equipment and turbine
install
Our Me-163 comes with the original s-shaped airfoil design used by Mr. Alexander Lippisch.
The model aircraft possesses excellent slow-flight characteristics and does not tend to stall.
The function of the different control surfaces has to be maintained as described in this
manual as the airfoil design differs from other airplanes and kits. The ailerons serve as
ailerons and elevators in typical delta style. The inner control surfaces, called Flettner Flaps,
are to be set slightly up for takeoff and landing. The deflection should be at around 5 to 6mm
up. It is necessary to test the function of the Flettner Flaps in mid air in order to get a good
feeling for how they work and what they do and to learn at what speed to deploy the flaps
before your first landing approach with deployed Flettners. The airplane will climb in case it
is still too fast for Flettners but at the correct speed it will simply continue to fly straight and
you can initiate your approach. The rate of glide is excellent and the airplane will fly stable
and true with deployed Flettner flaps, even at slower speeds. Without deployed Flettner flaps
and in zero or low wind conditions it will be difficult to maintain a controlled approach.
Since the Me-163 has a wide speed range it is up to the pilot to get familiar with the flaps and
what they do at what speed. Again, do so before you come in for your first landing.
Should you experience any problems during the build or flight of your Me163, please
feel free to contact Vogelsang Aeroscale. They will, together with us, assist you.
The
Sunshine Modellbau Team

The Wings:
Attach the ailerons to the wings. Incorporated into the ailerons you will find three
brackets that will accept the 6mm carbon rod which is being used as a hinge rod. These
brackets house bearings that guarantee the tight and friction free operation of the hinge
rod.
Image 1
Just like the original our ailerons are designed to be detachable. Start with cutting off the
middle extension between the flaps and ailerons at 90 mm deep. OR you can fabricate a
much nicer looking and more functional access panel. For that option please check a few
pages further down. The control surfaces being detachable makes it easier to apply the
paintjob later on, as well.
Image 2 Image 3
Image 4 Image 5
The detached part will later on be glued back into place in order to cover the hinge points.
Again, installing an access panel is the preferred but more elaborate option.

Now you have to cut away at the top and bottom of the Flettner flap section in
order to make the Flettner Flaps fit. Draw a line 5mm deep from end to end of the
flap section, see photo 9 for reference. Now cut off as shown in photo 7.
Image 6 Image 7
Image 8 Image 9
Next up are the ailerons. Open up a square notch as shown in photo 11 in order to house
the outer hinge bracket for the ailerons. Use the ailerons as a template to locate the exact
position of the bracket. Everything done right you will find a pre-installed box inside the
wing that will house the hinge bracket. Slightly undersize the hole at first and then slowly
widen it in order to guarantee a tight fit of the hinge bracket inside the box.
Image 11

Use the aileron itself in order to double-check the exact location of the bracket.
Shorten the hinge-bracket if needed to accomplish a gap between wing and aileron of
around 2 to 2.5mm.
Image 12 Image 13
Image 14 Image 15
Now position the inner hinge-brackets for the ailerons, again using the ailerons themselves
as guides to verify position and gap, drill the holes for the hinge rod through the brackets
and glue them into place. You will need to assemble the complete unit and let it cure in the
right position in order to achieve this. Check photo 20 below first for numbers and advice.
Image 16 Image 17

Drill the hinge-bracket hole according to the photo, 6mm in diameter, 36 mm
back from the front-plate.
Image 20 Image 21
Image 22 Image 23
Now you can glue the aileron hinge-brackets in place. Call us before assembly in case there
are any questions! Again, make sure to accomplish a gap between the wing and aileron of 2
to 2.5 mm. You can shim a strip of 2mm balsa to align the aileron. Futhermore, lay a flat
bar or construction level spanning ailerons and wings to ensure that the ailerons are level
with the surface of the wing and are not installed aslant.

The install of the Flettner flaps basically repeats the steps taken before for the aileron
install. Drill an 8mm hole through the root rib in the extension of the Flettner hinge-rod
line. This serves as an access hole only for the carbon rod, the hinge-brackets themselves
will serve as hinge points later on as shown below, last photo on this page. Again, use the
flaps themselves as guides.
Image 24 Image 25
Now let us have a look at the other end of the flap, the hinge bracket at the center section. I
will try to put the concept into words, in case of any questions, please call!
Image 26 Image 28
The center Flettner hinge bracket has two holes. One is located 23mm back from the front plate
and is 6mm in diameter in order to house the Flettner hinge rod itself, the other one is 63 mm back
from the front plate and 8mm in diameter and allows you to slide through the aileron’s hinge-rod
in case you want to remove or install the ailerons. Photo 28 shows (vaguely) both holes.

Once everything fits and works to your satisfaction glue the hinge-brackets in place. Again,
lay a flat bar or construction level spanning both flaps and wings to ensure that the
Flettners are level with the surface of the wing and are not installed aslant.
IMPORTANT:
Before you use any glue apply mold release or some other separating agent to the carbon
fiber rods in order the keep them from getting glued stuck. This could otherwise ruin all
the progress made to this point and damage vital parts!
The following two photos show dimensions of the alternative access hatch for the middle
section.
Image 30 Image 31
The now cut off lid can later on be screwed on top the hinge brackets which are
underneath. You can furthermore glue a frame in place surrounding the hole from
underneath in order to further supports the lid.
Back to the hinge rod. Once you are ready for final assembly please secure the whole
setup using 6mm collars with set-screw to keep the hinge rods from sliding out of
position. If you look at the two rod extensions inside the center section between aileron
and flap you will see that the simple use of one collar for each rod will secure enough to
keep the hinge-rods from travelling sideways.
In case you do experience slight sideways-slackness of the control surfaces please use the 4
plastic spacers included with the kits. Cut them to size in order to align the control surfaces
accordingly.
Earlier we had to cut away openings on the wings, left and right of the ailerons and flaps, in
order to install the hinge-brackets. If you now find these openings unsightly you can close
them up using 1mm plywood.
The slats: Sand them to size and close the open sides with thin balsa in order to increase the
bonding-surface used to glue them in place later on. It is important to fabricate 4 supports
that prop up the slats on top of the wing. The supports should be made of 3-5mm balsa
wood and should be shaped accordingly in order to accommodate the wing and slat contour.

.
Important!!!!
Do not glue the slats in place until after the paintjob is finished. Otherwise you will have
blind spots, making an immaculate paintjob difficult.
Servo and linkage install are up to your preference. Please call Vogelsang Aeroscale for
further advice in case you plan to “go fast”.
Last step is to cut out the ABS parts and to glue them in place.
The Fuselage:
You start with cutting the necessary cutouts on the fuselage. Being the back of
the fuselage’s access hatch, the side windows and…
Image 40 Image 41
Seitenfenster: Image 42 Image 43

the Air intakes underneath.
Image 46 Image 47
Image 48 Image 49
Please sand the edges smooth using sand paper in order to minimize injuries due to cuts.

Back of the fuselage:
Image 52 Image 53
Now drill the hole in the nose…DO NO GLUE A DOWEL IN PLACE YET.

Tailwheel: The opitional tailwheel is essential if you opt to launch self-propelled and not on a
bungee. Otherwise the airplane is difficult to direct on takeoff. The steerable tailwheel
should be the first item you install on your Me-163.
Image 58 Image 59
Image 60 Image 61

The opening for the linkage next to the tailwheel will be covered by a faceplate. The outer
sleeve of the push-pull rod will he held in place by the formers. We recommend a pushrod
of at least 2 mm made of carbon fiber. The servo for the tailwheel can be easily installed in
front of the dolly assembly. Double-Check location before install!
Now we continue with the install of the other components inside the fuselage. First you
should install the ring-former in the back of the fuselage. Check photos 66 and 68a for
reference. You can drill holes into it to bring the weight down, but do so with caution.
Make sure that the rudder stays straight and true! Secure it using CA and then fixate with
Epoxy.

Image 67
Top Lid: Build up a frame and construct as shown.

Construction of the Servo and Gear tray.
Position and Dimensions according to the photos

Use the 10mm hole in the nose as a mount for the dowl.
Image 96 Image 96 a

Image 97
Front supports and tray:

Canopy frame and internals:

Finish and sand the canopy frame and glue the canopy into place. It is important to finish the
locking mechanism before you glue the canopy into place on top of the canopy frame. In the
front of the cockpit, where the slotted former is located, you place a screw into the canopy
frame. This screw will act as a stud to secure the canopy in the front (photo 102a). In the back
you glue the piece of plywood into place according to photo 103 and 103b. Then position the
sliding lock according to photo 103a.
Glue the canopy into place and leave an overhang of 2mm.