3D Upfitters CR-10 S4 User manual

CR-10 S4/S5 Enclosure Kit
Installation Manual 1.0 !
October 31, 2018
Copyright 2019 3DUpfitters
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You Really Do Want to Read the Directions
Hey, we get it. You just got your new enclosure kit and want to start using it as fast as possible.
How hard can assembling a few plastic panels possibly be? Its not really that hard, assuming
you’re following the directions, but try to use brute force and you’ll end up working your way
through your vocabulary of swear words. While the acrylic pieces in the kit are strong and
difficult to harm accidentally, they are still plastic and will break if bent far enough. The ghosts
of the broken panels that have gone before you have become much stronger than you could
ever imagine, and are whispering into your ear, “just be a little careful”. #
Before you Start
Is This Manual for Yo u r Kit?
This installation manual covers the R1 enclosure design for the Creality CR-10 S4
(400x400x400mm) and S5 (500x500x500mm ) enclosure. If you have a different version of the
enclosure please read previous versions of the manual available on the website. Note that
while the design for the S4 and S5 is the same, the enclosure sizes are different to exactly fit
each model.#
Is your Printer Customized?
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If your printer is stock then no customization is needed. If you have customized the printer,
you should examine any modifications to make sure they don't block the panels. If part of one
of the panels is blocked, you can use a laser or drill to customize one or more panels. This
should be done before removing the plastic or paper covers on the acrylic panels.
Cutting acrylic requires great care as the plastic is prone to crack if mishandled.
Preparing the Printer!
Remove any filament from the hot end (will require heating the hot end) and remove the
filament spool from the spool holder.#
Turn the printer offand unplug the power cable from the printer’s power supply. #
Don’t Panic If You See This!!
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If you can’t see through the plastic, please don’t
panic! What you’re seeing is just the plastic or paper
protective covering.#
When plastic sheets are manufactured they are covered
by either a paper (brown colored) or plastic (white)
covering to protect against scratches. Follow the
directions below to remove the cover and discover the
beautiful plastic underneath. #
The basic process follows this iterative pattern for the
acrylic panels. The wood panels don’t have covers,
and so you can just connect those directly. Take the
acrylic panel out and lay it down flat on a table. Then,
CAREFULLY, SLOWLY, and with DELIBERATION
remove the covering on both sides. Pull horizontally
to the sheet to reduce the lateral forces that would bend the acrylic. #
Connecting screws should be tightened only a little more than hand tight. Use enough force
and even this high quality acrylic will crack. #
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Assemble Panels
The S5 side panels are made from thicker 1/4" acrylic to provide more structural rigidity. Do not
try to bend the 1/4” acrylic! The S4 version has 1/8” acrylic or 1/4” wood side panels. #
1. Attach The Front Door Frame Corners!
Each of the corners on the enclosure will be held together by the connectors pictured below. There are
only two versions L and R, which can be identified by the letters stamped on the inside. The opposite
connectors are identical, i.e. Bottom Right is the same as Top Left. In all cases the surface of the
connector with the cutout pattern faces front or back.#
#
The front door is designed so that the latches
are on the left. Attach the corner connectors on
the back side of the door frame using the
provided cap head 14mm screws. See the
photos below. The top of the connector should
be flush with the top of the acrylic.#
#
Top Left
Top Right
Bottom Left
Bottom Right
!
!
!
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The S4/S5 version also has three new connectors at the top and on the left and rights
side when viewed from the front.
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2. Assemble Front Door!
Locate the magnetic latches and use the wood screws to
attach them to the latch mounts. Hand tighten and make
sure they’re secure, but do not over tighten or they may
strip. The latch can be later adjusted front-
to-back to make sure the door is flush with
the door frame. #
Each latch mount is attached via three
screws. Two M4 10mm cap heads are used
to attach the latch mount to the side, while
a 30mm cap head secures the latch mount
to the door frame.#
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At this point attach the latch mount to the front
door frame using the included 30mm M4 screw.#
Attach the hinges to the door and door frame using
M4 flat head 12mm screws and nuts. There will be
some play in the hole size so that you can adjust the
door to swing freely.#
Attach the door knob using a 12mm flat head screw
and nut.#
Now that the latches are mounted it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate
comes with a squishy adhesive covering the same size of the plate. Carefully attach
the adhesive side to the acrylic at the location of each latch. Then, adjust the width of
the metal strike plate so that it is held on by the pressure of the two sides of the plate.
The adhesive covering will keep the metal of the strike plate from scratching the
acrylic. #
#
3. Attach Left Side
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Attach the left side to the front forming an L-
shape that will stand up on its own, then
attach one L and one R connector at the
back.#
The CR-10 S4/S5 design adds a side door for
each access to the printer, which is
assembled at this time. The latch mounts
are smaller than the front, although the
magnetic latch attaches in the same way
with wood screws. The parts for the side
door will be in a separate packet.#
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Attach the door hinges, latch mounts,
strike plates, and the knob, and the
assembly will look like the illustration to
the right. #
As with the front door, adjust how the door
hangs by loosening the hinge screws,
using the strike plates to hold the door to
the latches, and then tightening the hinge
screws.#
4. Assemble Back
The view to the right is of the back of the
enclosure when viewed from the back. The four
corner connectors are mirror images of the front.
The large hole is either for an air filter (purchased
separately) or can be covered up by a plastic
disc using short M4 10mm screws. On the top
and on each side are “mid panel corner
connectors”, which are basically simple L-
shapes. #
If assembling the Charcoal Air Filter, confirm the
direction of the fan’s air filter by plugging it into a USB
power supply before attaching to the filter and back of
the enclosure using M4 cap head 30mm or 40mm
screws depending on the depth of the particular fan.#
#
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The air filter should look like this after being
attached. Note that its easier to insert the
screws from the inside, and put the nuts next to
the filter housing.#
#
Now attach the back to the assembled left
and front panels, which should look like the
illustration to the right.#
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5. Attach Top
#
Be careful taking offthe protective cover,
as the top is delicate in the area of the slit
in the middle.
Use access through the doors to attach the
top of the enclosure using M4 12mm screws.
The hole to feed through filament in the stock
configuration will be on the left-back side of
the top, shown circled in red.#
If you are using a top feeding configuration the
filament will be fed through the slit in the
middle. #
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#
6. Attach Right Side
The right side is tricky to attach because of the
large size of the enclosure. Although attaching it
consists of simply screwing it to existing
connectors, unless you have exceedingly long
arms you will need a buddy to help hold the
nuts in place. Customers have done everything
from having a child climb into the enclosure to
placing the entire enclosure on the side of a
table to access the nuts. #
7. Attach Feet (Optional)
The feet are optional, and raise the enclosure
from the surface slightly, making it easier to run
cables. If you’ve also purchased an air filter, it
helps bring in air from the outside to run through
the filter, at the expense of slightly lowering the
ambient temperature inside the box. #
8. Attach Cables
Because of the large size of the enclosure and the printer, getting the full vertical range and
flexibility in control box placement will require purchase of cable extenders. These are easily
available on eBay and Amazon.#
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9. Sealing Gaps
Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to make sure that each of the panels is held
tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount of play that allows you
to make small adjustments for the perfect fit. #
1. Loosen screws on the panel to move.#
2. Push that panel into place. You may need a friend to hold it tightly in the right spot.#
3. Re-tighten the screws to hold the panel.#
Repeat the product, going around the enclosure looking to make sure all of the panels are flush to each
other.#
Accessories
Instructions for the spool holder are available online. You
can simply sit the spool holder on the top of the enclosure,
or optionally secure it to the side of the enclosure to keep it
from falling offthe enclosure as the printer vibrates the
table. #
Note the location of the spool holder is for the mostly stock
CR-10 extruder location. Those of you who have heavily
customized the hot end can feel free to drill holes and
move the spool holder where appropriate. #
Of course, you are free to use whatever type of freestanding
spool holder you wish; there are hundreds of designs available on Thingiverse. #
.#
Filament Guide
The filament guide is also optional, but does make it easier for the filament to make the 90
degree change from the top into the horizontal extruder mechanism. This type of 90 degree
bend doesn’t work with really brittle filament such as metal infused copper or bronze, and in
those cases you can simply bypass the guide altogether and send the filament directly into the
extruder.#
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The filament guide attaches to the Y motor (vertical
motion) by removing the two nuts, placing the
guide’s holes over the two screws, and then
replacing the nuts. #
The illustration to the right shows how the runout
sensor fits between the guide and the extruder.#
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Bed Clips
In order to make the size of the enclosure as
small as possible, there may be little room on
the front of the bed for clips that stick out. If
you find the enclosure needs a little more
room, attach the clips to the bed, and then
use needle-nose pliers to remove the clips.#
Customizations
Spool Holder Location Changes
There are lots of reasons to customize your enclosure. Those of you who want to change how
filament is brought into the enclosure should feel free to drill holes as appropriate. With acrylic,
be very careful to tape the area first on both the inside and outside, and use very little
pressure when drilling to gradually remove the plastic. If you do not follow these instructions
the plastic is liable to chip or crack the enclosure. Its not hard to do, but if you simply force the
bit into the plastic with no tape it will crack and chip. #
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Tool Holder
Our favorite customization is
to add magnetic tool holders
to the side. One end can be
attached via the same hole as
the corner connectors, but the
other end will require drilling a
single hole. #
Upgraded Bed Heaters
The next most common modification is a better heater bed, including the 120V bed. Not only
does the 120V version heat up faster than the hot end, it will go up to 120C so you can print
ABS. The key to doing this mod with an enclosure, is to make sure you adjust any cable
holders for the bed heater to not stick out the rear as on the stock heater. We have ours
adjusted to completely fit under the bed, giving the maximum front to back room in the
enclosure.#
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