Country Hearth 24A User manual
USSC Page1851731A
227 Industrial Park Road
P.O. Box 151
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
Models: 24A, 30A
TESTED TO UL 391
Report #: 215-S-17-4
LISTED BY PORTLAND,
OREGON, USA
Page2 USSC
Your new furnace must be installed into a
This type of chimney consists of a ue lined brick chimney, or an
approved “Class A” all fuel factory built (prefabricated) type. Any
other installation guarantees an immediate re hazard.
Do not install the furnace into the same chimney serving other
appliances.
When using 8” ue pipe, the chimney should have an 8” to 10”
round ue liner or 9”x9” square liner.
The chimney should have a minimum height of 3’ from the top
of the chimney to the point at which it passes through the roof.
The top of the chimney must be at least 2’ higher than the peak
or the highest portion of the roof within 10’ horizontally.
A chimney that rises within the house is better insulated than a
chimney that is located outside the house and exposed to the
weather, the north side of the house is the worst position.
Check manual for proper installation of ue pipe into chimney.
Install your furnace as close to the chimney as possible with a
minimum of elbows, no more than two and a ue pipe run of no
more than 6 feet horizontally. Also, the ue pipe should contain
a 1/2” rise per foot and NEVER be installed closer than 18” from
combustibles.
WOOD BURNING: Install a manual ue pipe draft damper at a
safe, convenient location between your furnace and chimney.
COAL BURNING: Install a barometric damper set at .05 Water
Column.
AIR FLOW: Solid Fuel furnaces produce much hotter air than oil or
gas red appliances so all clearances are mandatory.
AIR DUCT INSTALLATION: This furnace provides a 12” round (113
sq. in.) opening, because of efciency and general convenience.
United States Stove Company recommends a Parallel Furnace
Installation with direct (ducted) feed or return air to your furnace.
NOTE: Cold air duct intake must be at least 25% larger than hot
air duct outlet.
U.S. Stove provides easy step by step pictures, therefore, the fur-
nace assembly procedure should be understandable.
Start on a conservative basis. Your new furnace, when properly
red with hard dry wood will achieve approximately 6 to 8 hours
of burn time per load of wood, much longer with coal. If the
furnace is being red hot constantly with full ames and only pro-
vides a 3 hour burn cycle, the furnace is being overred. Possibly
your heating requirements are too much for the size of furnace
purchased. Certainly allowing your existing furnace to assist in
extremely cold weather is no crime. Remember, your furnace can
be damaged if red continually at extremely high temperatures
and this procedure will void your warranty.
This generally occurs when the following procedures are not
followed, ash door is open (even partially open), the feed door
pressure relief ap is open, the feed door is open or the manual
draft spinner is open. Open the ash and feed doors only when in
attendance, never leave the furnace unattended when doors
are open. This furnace has an automatic draft fan so use the
manual draft with a specic purpose. Also, an overlled ash
drawer can cause grate warpage, keep ash drawer clean. Don’t
use furnace if distribution fan isn’t functioning properly, and keep
air lter clean. Draft fan opening should be set at 1/2” open as
a point of start, depending on condition of fuel.
•Your furnace will hold logs approximately 2” shorter than the
length of the rebox. Don’t force in oversized logs.
•Unsplit, dry logs will provide longer burn time than split logs.
•Don’t ever try to burn trash or garbage.
•Keep ue pipe stack temperature between 300 and 400 de-
grees. This will reduce creosote build-up. A magnetic surface
thermometer can be obtained from your dealer.
•Weather is the most important determinant in how you operate
your furnace (assuming you have dry wood).
•The colder it is the stronger the draft, warm weather reduces
draft. Set your draft fan rheostat and manual draft accordingly.
•Open manual smoke damper only when starting the re and
when chimney draft is marginal.
•Always place logs so air can ow between them.
•Shake gently (up to 10 o’clock down to 8 o’clock) don’t try to
loose weight shaking down ashes!
•Wood ash is useful as a fertilizer because it contains potassium,
ashes also decrease the acidity of the soil. Coal ashes will pro-
vide good traction on ice or snow, otherwise they are useless.
•Always store ashes in a metal container with a lid.
•Ashes are a good thermal insulator and will keep enough oxy-
gen away so embers will not burn out.
•Never, never let ashes accumulate up to grate level, this will
greatly reduce the life span of your grate.
•Coal produces much more ash than wood.
•Keep your chimney and ue pipe clean, check monthly.
•Smoke detectors and re extinguishers should always be a part
of your equipment.
•Never use chemicals or uids such as gasoline, charcoal lighter,
drain oil or kerosene to light a re.
•Oil the air fan motors yearly. They do not contain bearings,
sleeves with felt. Therefore keeping fan air clean is more impor-
tant than oiling.
•Turn on your regular furnace once every month to keep it
tuned up.
•Always shut the furnace down gradually to prevent excessive
stress on steel.
•There is no substitute for dry hard wood. Wood requires 6 months
to a year to air dry to 25% moisture content or less.
•Don’t throw heavy, wet wood into your Jensen, it could crack
the rebox and bricks.
•Treat your furnace with the proper respect and it will reward
you with much comfort, and a lifetime of central heat.
USSC Page3
...to the world of solid fuel heating! Your new furnace has been designed
and built with a high grade of materials and the strictest regard to quality.
Before you start installing your new furnace, take the time to read these instal-
lation and operating instructions. We have prepared them for your benet to
save time and provide some helpful knowledge on wood and coal burning.
Save the instructions for future use. It won’t take long for you to realize the
benet of solid fuel heating, however, maintenance is the key to a long
lasting relationship with your new furnace. These instructions can help you
now as well as in the future.
Note: This owners manual is provided for Forced Air add on furnaces. United
States Stove Company is constantly developing and improving its product
line, therefore, we reserve the right to change specications without notice.
General Rules ...........................................................................................................................................................4
How It Works..............................................................................................................................................................5
Installation Instructions ......................................................................................................................................... 6-9
Assembly ........................................................................................................................................................... 10-14
Control Box and Electrical Components.............................................................................................................15
Operation.......................................................................................................................................................... 15-19
Accessories .............................................................................................................................................................19
Trouble Shooting.....................................................................................................................................................20
Parts List & Diagram ......................................................................................................................................... 21-22
Wiring Schematic ...................................................................................................................................................23
How To Order Repair Parts ....................................................................................................................................24
welcome
table of contents
Page4 USSC
Check local codes, the installation must comply with
strict conformance in regard to clearances.
The Furnace must be installed on a noncombustible
oor.
Connect the furnace to tile lined inside masonry
chimney or approved insulated all fuel prefabricated
chimney only.
Keep smoke pipe connection as short as possible,
using a minimum 24 gauge pipe with a minimum
1/2” per foot rise from the ue collar to the chimney
opening.
Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to oper-
ate at .04 to .06 inches of water column and must be
set with a draft gauge to maintain a steady draft.
Do not use ammable liquids for starting a re.
Do not store fuel or combustibles near the furnace.
Some areas of the furnace are hot and could cause
an explosion and possible bodily or property dam-
age.
Store all ashes in a metal container with a tight seal-
ing lid and allow ashes to cool before disposing of
them, possibly a week.
Familiarize yourself with the furnace’s solid fuel burn-
ing characteristics before leaving unit unattended
for long periods of time.
The loading door and ash door must be tightly closed
during furnace operation to insure safety and ef-
ciency.
CAUTION -
The furnace has hot surfaces. Keep Children Away.
Do not touch during operation.
The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and
coal at a predetermined ring rate. Over ring could
result in damage to the heat exchanger and cause
dangerous operation. Over ring occurs when the
ash door is left open during operation or a highly
volatile fuel, such as large amounts of small kindling,
is used. Note: This action voids all warranty.
Follow a regular service and maintenance schedule
of the furnace and chimney for efcient and safe
operation.
Do not leave the ash door open when the re is
burning.
Do not let ashes build up closer than 2” to the grate.
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt
on the metal. You may smell an odor. This is normal
during the rst operation. You should assemble the
furnace out of doors and build a small re in it to
“burn off” this dirt and oil before installing the unit.
remove the lter from the
cold air return box if equipped. Do not expect to
keep your home at normal temperatures. Do not
load fuel above the botom of the feed door.
In the event of a chimney re call the re depart-
ment, then be sure the furnace doors are closed
tightly and the power to the unit is turned off.
general rules
USSC Page5
Unlike conventional heating (gas, oil, electric), wood
or coal heating requires more user attention. Your
furnace, with its automatic combustion air blower,
alleviates the constant need for adjusting the burn-
ing rate common to other units on the market. The
re, however, must be started and subsequent fuel
added by the user.
Conventional heating system produce heat only
when the thermostat calls for heat. This way of heat-
ing is inefcient and often leaves part of the home
either too hot or too cold. Your furnace is designed
to deliver heat as long as there is a re in it. The re
intensity is regulated by the room thermostat, high
or low, the re continues to produce heat. This heat
is continuously distributed throughout the home by
a distribution blower. This constant supply of heat is
uniform and prevents drafts.
Note: Improper ring. Wood or coal over ring
occurs when the ash door is left open dur-
ing operation or a highly volatile fuel is used.
Coal that exceeds the re brick line will cause
overring...this type of operation will immedi-
ately void any warranty.
how...
Page6 USSC
It is very important you check with your dealer, local
re department, or building inspector. They will be
able to inform you of any state or local codes pertain-
ing to the location and installation of your furnace.
The ideal location for your furnace is centrally located
in the basement. This allows for an even heat distri-
bution by having all the duct work approximately
the same length. Ideal locations cannot always be
used for one reason or another, therefore, let’s look
at some alternatives.
If your home does not have a basement, but a utility
room or garage, make sure there is enough space
to maintain the required clearances stated on the
label located on the furnace. Also, read about
combustion air.
Chimney location is also critical. The furnace must
be placed as close as possible to the chimney. You
want the chimney connector (smoke pipe) to have a
minimum of elbows, two (2) or less. Also, the chimney
connector should not have to run more than six (6)
feet to the chimney.
.
After installation, be sure the measured external
static pressure of the central and Furnace is not
greater than those marked on the nameplates.
The bafe on this system should be made the full
width of the furnace plenum in order to properly
direct the air into the distribution ducts.
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional)
is inserted into the heat run before the plenum of
the existing furnace to prevent air from the existing
furnace to blow back into the furnace when it is not
in use. When a back damper is employed, it should
be located as close to the existing furnace plenum
as practical.
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into
the existing plenum will help direct the ow of air
from the furnace as well as the ow in the existing
furnace. Ducting entering the existing plenum at
an angle (approximately 45 degrees) will facilitate
air ow from the furnace while diverting air from the
existing furnace.
installation
USSC Page7
installation
Your furnace is designed to be added on to existing
duct work and operate either with or without another
heat source such as a gas furnace. The following
diagrams illustrate acceptable ways of ducting your
furnace.
Your Furnace has been tested to determine the SAFE
clearances to combustible material. The clearances
are printed on the label located on the back of the
furnace. The chart on this page also states these
minimum clearances. Make sure you follow these
when choosing your furnace location.
Any hot air plenum connection to a furnace must
be constructed of metal.
Furnace to back wall 30”
Furnace to side wall 12”
Pipe to back wall 18”
Pipe to side wall 18”
Furnace to ceiling 30”
Ductwork to ceiling 18-6-1”
Page8 USSC
WHAT SIZE CHIMNEY SHOULD BE
USED?
TheChimneysizetouseiseithersix(6)
or(8)inchroundoran8x8”square.If
youusearectangularchimney,themini-
mumareaitmaybeis39squareinches.
“ClassA”chimneysarethosemadefrom
tile-linedmasonry(brickorblock)oran
independentlaboratoryapprovedall-fuel
factory-builtchimney.
CAUTION!
Onlya“ClassA”,all-fuelchimneyintend-
edforusewithsolidfuelshouldbeused.
flue recommendations
USSC Page9
If your home has an existing metal chimney, the same
rules apply as with masonry chimneys. One thing to be
especially aware of is that “Class B” chimneys are for gas
appliances only, not solid fuel burners. If purchasing a
new package, consult with the dealer. He will provide
the necessary parts and instructions for installation.
When installing a new chimney, whether it be masonry
or metal, if possible, it is recommended that it is placed
within the house structure. These chimneys remain
warmer and, in turn, radiate this warmth into the house.
A chimney located outside the house is exposed to cold
temperatures which encourages creosote build-up and
poor chimney draft.
When using a metal chimney, part of the installation
package should include a stove pipe connector. Follow
the instructions provided with the chimney and its parts.
These devices are used to help maintain adequate
chimney draft automatically. They should be installed
according to their instructions and set at .04 to .06 inches
of water column.
These are used to control chimney draft manually and
should be installed in a convenient place between
furnace and chimney. In the event of a chimney re, it
should be closed reducing air to the chimney re.
A combination of both barometric damper and manual
damper may be used. If this is the case, install the
manual damper between the barometric damper and
the chimney.
There are many appliances which require “make up” air
to operate. However, with a combustion air draft fan,
“make-up” air is not usually necessary with your wood
furnace.
If your home is sealed exceptionally well, use a 3” or 4”
diameter duct vented to the outside and terminating
in the vicinity of the combustion air draft fan. Also, it is
possible for your fans to draw in furnace smoke if there is
only dead air in the area. Note: It’s highly recommended
that a cold air return system be utilized. Simply attach a
14” round to a lter box adapter and attach to cold air
return. Also, a cold air return increases motor life.
With the chimney being the most important part to
your installation, great care should be given to its
design.
If your intention is to use an existing masonry chimney,
check rst with your local building ofcial to see if this
is acceptable.
The ue pipe you should use is 6” or 8” 24 gauge or
heavier steel pipe.
When installing the ue pipe, make sure all joints are
secured with at least three (3) sheet metal screws.
This includes the connection to the ue collar of the
furnace. For added protection, use some high tem-
perature furnace cement to seal each joint.
The stove pipe should slope upward to the chimney
at a rate of 1/2 inch per foot. Any horizontal runs
of stove pipe should not exceed six (6) feet and it
should be supported every four (4) feet. Note: Flue
pipe should be attached inside the ue pipe collar
to prevent creosote from running down onto electri-
cal motors.
When connecting ue pipe to a masonry chimney,
there are two ways to go:
The ue pipe itself can be cemented into the
chimney or;
A thimble can be used which is cemented into
the chimney, and the ue pipe ts into the thimble.
In each case, care must be taken. The outer masonry
(brick or block) must be chipped away, and the in-
ner liner must be pierced. The ue pipe or thimble is
then inserted ush to the inside face of the tile liner.
NOT ANY FURTHER!
Use furnace cement or mortar to seal this connec-
tion. When connecting the ue pipe, make sure the
attachment is secure enough so down draft or “puffs”
do not dislodge it.
flue recommendations
Page10 USSC
Prior to assembling, place the unit in the general vicinity of the installation. This should help minimize han-
dling damage to the unit after assembly.
1. Unit side shrouds can be assemble by slipping
the side shrouds into place from the top down.
If they don’t slide easily, open up the lip of the
sides with a large screw driver then add a little oil.
Sometimes a slight tapping with a block of wood
and hammer may be required, but do not force.
When properly installed, the electrical knock-outs
will be at the top left side. NOTE: Should you wish
to install a domestic hot water coil, it should be
secured to the right side prior to assembly. Also,
the rear cast iron bafe must be fastened prior to
shroud installation.
The furnace is partially prewired all that is
required is the wiring of the distribution fan (see
wiring diagram, page 18) and the wiring to wall
the thermostat.
4. After mounting the three (3) fans proceed to the
fan control center.
NOTE: The best maintenance for fan motors is to
keep them clean (exceptionally clean). Oiling
with 20W N. detergent once a season will also
help, but cleanliness is what prolongs motors life.
The distribution motors have sealed ball bearing
motors and should not need oiling. However, if
an oil tube is present, you should oil the motors
once a season as mentioned.
Attaching the distribution fans. Using four(4) of the
supplied 1/4-20 self-tapping bolts, rst install the
blower motor on the right looking at the rear of the
furnace. Then proceed to mount the left blower.
Be sure to place the supplied gaskets between the
motors and rebox back as shown.
Attach the draft fan to the back of the weld on
the throat (2” throat hole with 3 mounting holes).
It’s best to use the self tapping screws without the
draft fan to establish threads then mount blower.
The electrical box on the blower should be facing
downward. Draft fan air intake cover should be
set at a 20% opening, about 1/2” opening.
3.
assembly illustrations
2.
USSC Page11
6. Attach low voltage thermostat No. 18 up to 30
ft. run No. 16 to 15ft. Run (purchase locally) to
terminal plate, screws identied with letters G
& R. (Generally top row center, bottom row
right). Snake wire through holes in top of box.
Replace outer covers & control knob. Under
no circumstances should you attempt to plug
in main power cord until all wiring and covers
are in place. NOTE: A ground power cord plug
is provided; however, local codes may require
fuse box mounting.
8. Install top shroud (if removed) by simply placing
shroud on to the top of unit, push down, check
each corner for snug t.
Attaching furnace control center box. To sepa-
rate outer cover, remove two (2) side screws
and pull off black rheostat knob. Attach box
to left side (facing feed door) with four (4) self-
threading screws. One screw in each corner.
(NOTE: Furnace control center is designed for left
side attachment. Should space prohibit such,
reversing shrouds for right side installation is pos-
sible, however, control wires from box will have
to be extended.)
Next, attach the 4x4 junction box below the
control center box, using (2) self-threading screws
provided in the parts bag. (Two starter holes are
provided.)
5a.
5b.
Wall thermostat should be mounted on an up-
stairs inside wall (no outside facing wall) prefer-
ably near your existing thermostat. For more
specic information, read the Honeywell instruc-
tion sheet provided with thermostat. Caution:
disconnect the power supply before installing.
NOTE: Your wall thermostat and transfer relay
are mated Honeywell products for trouble free
installation.
7.
assembly illustrations
Page12 USSC
10. Lay
the rst grate frame on the side supports and slide
to the back of the unit. Then install the second
grate frame to the front as shown in the picture
above. The smooth ends of the frames should
be together in the middle.
12. Place 5 bricks on each side
(10 brick total). The bricks tuck under rebox
seem.
For the 30A model, use six(6) full brick and 1 half
brick per side. (12 full and 2 half brick total)
9. To install hot air attach-
ing collar, simply bend all tabs right angle under
shroud. This may be possible with thumbs, if not,
remove top and use small hammer.
CAUTION: Any hot air plenum connection to a fur-
nace must be constructed of metal.
Install grates together, slip
shaker lug into hole and place grates into frame.
Grate arch faces upward. Check out grate rota-
tion by placing shaker handle on grate lug (3/4”).
Grates should rotate freely.
NOTE: Grates are designed to withstand high
temperatures, however, should you overre the
furnace you may fuse or melt grates. This hap-
pens if furnace receives too much air caused
by leaving the ash and feed doors open, draft
fan cover wide open, and hot coals or ashes are
excessive in ash pan.
11.
assembly illustrations
USSC Page13
13.Installing front and rear cast bafes, heat plates.
NOTE: Grate frames and brick will slide forward
and backward to allow bafe to t. Install front
cast bafe using two (2) 5/16 bolts, nuts & wash-
ers (7/16 wrench will be needed). Place the side
of the bafe that has the two ribs against the
front weld of the rebox. Do not tighten bolts
yet. Place the rear cast bafe to the back of the
rebox but do not attach the bolts at this time.
14. Now slip the rear heat plate in behind the rear
bafe. Attach heat plate to the rebox by using
two (2) 5/16 bolts, nuts & washers. First, line up
the top holes and tighten bolts. Secondly, line
up the holes in the rear bafe and the heat plate
with the rebox and attach by using two (2) 5/16
bolts, nuts & washers. Tighten all four (4) bolts.
NOTE: to reach rear bolts you may nd it easier to
put your arm through the ue outlet rather than
to reach through the feed door.
15.Installing smoke damper rod to sliding smoke
damper. First, insert rod through hole above feed
door and push forward.
16.Next working through the ue hole behind fur-
nace, line up rod between the two posts on the
sliding smoke damper. Then line up the three (3)
holes for cotter pin insertion, this procedure will
test your patience. It’s helpful to have a ashlight
and another person positioning the rod.
assembly illustrations
Page14 USSC
18. Installing steel smoke shield. Two (2) holes are
provided above each corner of the feed door.
Slide the two (2) bolts, supplied in the parts bag,
into the holes. Next, place the two (2) clips pro-
vided onto each bolt and then attach the two
(2) nuts on each bolt. Before tightening the bolts
and nuts securely, slide the smoke shield up under
the clips, lining them with the slots in the smoke
shield. Tighten the (2) bolts and nuts. (NOTE: The
smoke shield should be able to swing back and
forth.) The smoke shield will help prevent smoke
back pufng if you have a lazy ue.
17. To install Feed Door handle, insert handle into the
door then attach with the 1/2-13 nut and washer
provided. Tighten nut against the backside of
the door then back it off approx. 1/4 turn or until
handle moves freely. (Follow these instructions
for ash door handle installation.)
assembly illustrations
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
A A
B B
TOLERANCES
EXCEPT
AS
NOTED
HOLES
`
.005"
DECIMAL
.XX = 0.03 XXX = 0.010
ANGULAR
`
2
~
DESCRIPTION
FINISH
REFERENCE
SCALE
DWN BY
DATE
SIZE REV
TITLE NUMBER
UNITED STATES STOVE COMPANY
ESTABLISHED 1869
ASHLEY FURNACE, MEDIUM 24A
(Dual_Blowers)1
AB
24A
TOP LEVEL ASSY
1
OF
1
SHEET
REVISION HISTORY
REV DESCRIPTION DATE BY
A 7/31/2008
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
A A
B B
18. Find the Feed Door Latch shown in the parts box.
Install with the 1/4-20 bolts and nuts provided.
Adjust the latch so that the door seals properly.
(The ash door latch shall be assembled in the
same manner using the ash door latch.)
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
A A
B B
19. To install the dampers on the doors, screw the
damper up onto the 1/2-13 carriage bolt pro-
vided. Then screw the damper and bolt into the
door until the bolt protrudes the rear of the door
so that a nut can be attached. Tighten the nut.
USSC Page15
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
1.
2.
3.
4.
Relay...electrical switching device,
Rheostat...current (voltage) reducer increases or
decreases draft fan R.P.M.
Distribution Capacitor: Reduces amps required
to activate distribution fan.
Transformer: Reduces voltage 110 volts to 24
volts for thermostat usage. Generally hums a bit.
170 degree limit disk...breaks off electrical current
to the draft fan at 170 degrees
(2) adjustable140 degree limit disc...closes at
set temperature to operate distribution blowers.
Thermodisc’s range is 95-140. (see illustration for
location)
Draft fan...small fan that activates re, increasing
re temperature.
Wall mounted thermostat requests heat...electri-
cal contact occurs.
Current is sent through relay, rheostat, 170 de-
grees thermo limit disk to activate draft fan.
Upon rebox temperature rise due to air from
draft fan, current passes thru the top/right ther-
modisc to activate the left distribution fan. The
factory seting is approximately 120 degrees air
temperature, 500 CFM of air at 120 degrees.
Should rebox temperature air reach 140 de-
grees, current is directed thru the bottom/right
thermodisc to activate the second fan for 1,000
CFM of air.
Both blowers will continue to run until air tem-
perature drops approx. 20 degrees below the
set point on the thermodisc.
Check that your draft blower is in working order be-
fore lighting a re (cover setting 20% open).
Do this by turning the room thermostat to a high
temperature so that the draft blower turns on, then
turn the thermostat back to proper setting thus turn-
ing the draft air blower off. Should draft blower not
function, check to see if rheostat setting is on.
The above is somewhat basic, however, it’s offered
so you can understand your furnaces electrical func-
tions and enjoy it more.
Never use chemicals or uids such as gasoline,
charcoal lighter uid, drain oil or kerosene to
light a re in your furnace. This would be like
checking the level of gas in your car with a
lighted match.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pull bypass damper out (opens up ue hole).
Make sure your ue pipe damper is open. Place
several pieces of crumpled paper in the center
of your rebox. In a crisscross pattern, place a
couple of handfuls of dry kindling wood, then
several small dry pieces of rewood.
Ignite the paper and close the door. Do not at-
tempt to open the door immediately after igniting
the re. There could be a ame ash out.
It will take a few minutes for the re to establish
itself. Once you have some good red hot burning
coals, add larger pieces of wood. All Chimneys
and hookups act differently. After a while, you
will nd out how your unit works best for starting.
control boX & electrical comPonent
Wall Thermostat
*(2) 140 degree Adjustable Thermo Disk
*(1)170 degree Thermo Limit Disk
*(1)Relay Transformer
(2) Air Distribution Fan
(1)Draft, Fan
* Control Box Components
170 degree
limit disc
140 degree
adjustable disc.
(Left Dist. Blower)
140 degree
adjustable disc.
(Right Dist. Blower)
Page16 USSC
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Push in bypass damper after re has progressed.
Your furnace is capable of putting out many
BTU’s, so don’t fully load your furnace until you
have become familiar with the operation of the
furnace. Keep in mind, a full load will not always
give you the best results for your needs. Note:
With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or
dirt on the metal. You may smell an odor. This is
normal during the rst operation. You may want
to assemble the furnace out of doors and build a
small re in it to “burn off” this dirt and oil before
installing the unit.
When loading your furnace that has existing hot
coals, pull the bypass damper out and rake the
red hot embers over grate evenly. Put a few
smaller pieces of wood on the coals rst, then load
up to the middle of the feed door.
Set rheostat setting for type and condition of coal
or wood. Hard coal and wood requires more
forced air than soft, so experiment with dial set-
ting. Start with a center dial setting. The draft fan
cover also requires experimenting with. Start with
a 20% opening.
Set the furnace thermostat for comfort. Set the
other thermostat 10 degrees lower.
Use caution when opening loading door. Avoid
opening loading door rapidly. This could cause
ames to ash out the door. This occurs when
there is unburned fuel and a large amount of
gases on the top of the rebox. When the door is
opened oxygen is combined with the gases and
ignites.
Every morning when there is just a bed of hot embers,
shake the grate very, very lightly.
Once every week or two, depending on how much
fuel you burn, ashes should be removed. Note: A 2”
to 3” bed of ashes will prolong wood burning and
protect grates.
To remove ash pan simply open ash door and pull out
your ash pan. But remember, the ash pan can get
very hot. Dump ashes in a metal container with a lid
and place on a non-combustible surface.
Never let ashes build up to grate level. This will
reduce the life span of your grate, and void grate
warranty.
Never use anything but a metal container to put
your ashes in. Every year res are caused by emp-
tying ashes into cardboard boxes or paper bags.
Keep chimney and ue pipe clean by cleaning at
least twice during a heating season.
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and
other organic vapors which combine with expelled
moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors con-
dense in the relatively cool chimney ue of a slow
burning re. As a result, creosote residue accumu-
lates on the ue lining. When ignited, this creosote
makes an extremely hot re.
The chimney connector and chimney should be
inspected at least twice monthly during the heat-
ing season to determine if a creosote buildup has
occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed
to reduce the risk of a chimney re.
Keeping your chimney and stove pipe clean is the
best insurance against chimney res. Note: Smoke
detectors and re extinguishers should always be a
part of your equipment.
If you clean your own chimney and stove pipe, we
recommended purchasing the equipment profes-
sionals use. Wire brushes are available in enough
sizes and shapes to be a snug t inside any com-
mon ue.
Once a week let your furnace burn with ash door
open for a maximum of fteen minutes while in at-
tendance. This will help minimize creosote buildup.
Also placing a surface magnetic thermometer on
ue pipe is helpful to keep temperatures at 300 to
400 degrees. Duct temperatures should be 115 to
125 degrees at 12” above furnace.
If you have a chimney re, we recommend the
following immediate actions:
1.
2.
3.
Alert everyone in the house.
Shut any furnace doors, disconnect power to
the unit, and close any dampers. This should
take no longer than a few seconds.
Call the re department.
oPeration
USSC Page17
Your furnace is capable of burning both Bituminous
and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps the best
coal fuel because its long even burn time, high heat
output, and cleanliness make it a good choice for
the home. However, keep in mind it is a much more
difcult fuel to use, requires more care and patience,
is not so widely available, and is usually much more
expensive than bituminous.
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will
work in your New Furnace, for best results we recom-
mend large nut coal to small egg coal (1-3/4” dia. to
4” dia.). When burning Anthracite, use egg or broken
with sizes between 2-5/16” thru 4-3/8”. Note that it
is important to the long life of your furnace to buy
coal which has been sized and cleaned. Cleaning
insures removal of rocks and other materials. Never
use coal smaller than 1” or larger than 5” in diameter.
Small sized coal will smother the re. Too large a size
of coal will not burn well.
All coal res should be started
with wood which will allow the re to get hot enough
to ignite the coal. The best ignition res utilize dry
pine or other resinous soft woods as kindling, with
hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to increase
the heat prior to addition of the coal.
Once your kindling and
wood re has produced a bed of well established
coals, start adding coal in layers allowing each to
ignite before adding more. Bituminous has a high
volatile content and, as a result, should be red with
the “conical method” - with the highest portion of
your rebed in the center of the rebox. The rst
ames will be long and generally orange or yellow
and produce quite a bit of smoke. As the gases burn
off the ames become shorter, change colorand pro-
duce less smoke. Once the re is WELL ESTABLISHED
add coal to the center of the rebox forming the
cone. Burning in this fashion allows heat to drive off
the volatile gases, and turbulence created increases
the burn efciency. You will have to experiment with
your particular setup as no two chimney’s or instal-
lations are going to be the same. Just remember to
allow enough secondary air to enter the rebox and
keep your stove pipe damper open so that volatiles
are properly burned. Before refueling, take the time
to break up the cone a little with a poker, especially
if it has caked over or formed a crust. But, be care-
ful not to mix the coal as this increases the chances
of forming clinkers. When shaking the grate(s) be
gentle. Just a few short movements is better than a
lot of agitation. The objective is to remove a small
amount
of the ashes without disturbing the re. Stop when
you see a glow in the ashes or the rst red coals fall
into the ash pan. Excessive shaking wastes fuel and
can expose the grate(s) to very high temperatures
which can cause warpage or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time)
shake the re and add coal, retaining your center
cone. Once the volatiles are burned off, close the
feed door and adjust your stove pipe damper. Then
adjust your thermostat to the desired heat level.
You will have more MAINTENANCE with bituminous
than with anthracite coal as more soot will collect
on heating surfaces and in pipes, requiring more
frequent cleaning.
Before starting the re open - the
stove pipe damper, open the ash pit door and feed
door, place newspaper, nely split kindling on the
grate, and light the paper. Add larger hard wood
after kindling is burning brightly.
Place the larger pieces of wood
on the re so that they are slightly separated and
form a level for the addition of coal. It will take 10
to 20 minutes before this wood is thoroughly ignited.
Adding coal too soon will cut the air supply and
smother the re.
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to
the wood re, being careful not to disturb it too much
or cut off the draft. Then, add a second heavier
layer after the coal is ignited and burning well. If
necessary, add a third layer to bring the coal up to
the top of the front liner (not above!). Be sure you
have closed your ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure you leave a red
spot of glowing coals in the center of the rebox to
insure that you have not smothered the re and to
help ignite thegases given off by the new charge.
A deep charge will give a more even heat and a
longer re, but it may take one to two hours before
the whole bed is fully ignited.
When the re is well established and the room is be-
coming warm, partially close the dampers. You will
have to experiment with your particular setting of the
damper and controls as your chimney provides the
draft necessary to not only exhaust the smoke, but to
pull combustion air into the heater as well - and no
two chimney’s perform the same. Leave the ash pit
damper at least partially open to prevent the re from
going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce
the draft on the re. With anthracite you will see short
blue ames above the coal, except when the re is
started or a new charge is added. If, however, there
oPeration
Page18 USSC
If, however, there is no ame then the re needs more
air from the bottom (unless it is near the end of its burn
cycle and needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original
depth is it time to add fresh coal. When doing so,
open your stove pipe damper, which will allow the re
to burn off any accumulated gases. Open the feed
door, and with a small rake, hoe or hooked poker
pull the glowing coals to the front of the rebox. Try
not to disturb the re too much. Next, add a fresh
charge to the back being careful not to seal off the
top. Close the feed door but leave the spin damper
open for a few minutes until the volatile gases have
burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the
ashes each time you refuel your furnace. Experience
will be your best teacher.
For extended operation, such
as overnight, you will need to bank the re. To do
so heap coal up along the sides and back of the
rebox so that the re gradually burns it over a lon-
ger period of time. You will also reduce the intensity
of the re without letting it go out. Follow the same
procedure as for refueling. If possible, avoid shaking,
as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the inten-
sity of the re during this time. After loading, let the
re establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close
your damper to the point where the house does not
become too cold. It is important that you begin
banking early enough before retiring or leaving that
you can make necessary adjustments after the re
is well established.
To revive a coal re that is almost out, you should (1)
open the ash door and stove pipe damper to get a
good draft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer
of dry coal over the entire top of the re. DO NOT
POKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the
fresh coal has become well ignited shake the grate
(just a little) and you will be ready to refuel.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous
coal, sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (some-
times called channel coal or candle coal). NEVER
burn wax or chemically impregnated sawdust logs -
their intended use is for replaces only. NEVER ll your
stove or furnace above the rebrick or cas iron liner.
Shaking should be done only when
there is a hot re.
The frequency of shaking will depend on the degree
of burning. Shaking should be done at least once a
day and preferably twice a day.
Best results from shaking the rocker grates will occur
if short “choppy” strokes are used rather than long,
even strokes.
The amount of shaking is critical. Too little or too
much of both can result in the extinguishing of a re
due to blocked air ow. The proper amount normally
occurs when red coals rst start to drop through onto
the bed of ashes.
No furnace ever should be “poled” from the top.
This can lead to clinker formation and compacting
of the coal and ashes, which results in clogged air
passages.
Ashes never should be allowed to accu-
mulate in the ash pit so that they in any way impede
the ow of combustion air to the re. Excess ash
accumulation can cause the re to go out and also
can cause severe damage to the grates because of
the absence of a cooling ow of air beneath them.
Ashes always should be emptied into a metal con-
tainer. Coals can remain hot many hours after a re
is out. Coal ashes should not be put on gardens as
they do not contain benecial minerals like wood
ashes, and may cause ground water pollution.
Coal produces considerably more ash than wood,
so the intervals between emptying are much shorter.
For equal heat output, coal will produce seven (7)
to ten (10) times more ash than wood.
Clinkers can occur in any coal furnace
during the process of burning. These are hard pieces
of fused ash that form in the rebox. They can be-
come hard and large in size and, therefore, cannot
be shaken through the grates in a coal stove. When
there is an appreciable accumulation, the re will go
out because insufcient air is allowed to pass through
the clinkers to the burning coal.
Once large clinkers have formed, they can be
removed only from above the grates. This usually
means the re must be allowed to go out before
they can be removed.
Clinkers formation can occur from a number of dif-
ferent causes or a combination of causes. Some of
these are:
• Poor quality coal-excess ash content and/or too
low a heat of fusion.
• Too hot a re (too much draft).
• Too shallow a bed of coals.
• Too deep a bed of coals.
• Excessive Shaking.
• Poking the re from the top.
• Too little air (draft) after a long, hot re (caused by
rapid adjustment of draft from a very high setting to
a low setting).
oPeration
USSC Page19
Whenever the loading door is opened, it should be cracked slightly (for about ten (10) seconds) to allow
oxygen to enter and burn any combustible gases that are present before fully opening. Failure to do this
could result in sudden ignition of the unburned gases when the door is opened. This furnace is equipped
with a safety latch system to reduce the rsik of sucjh an ignition. Always wear a glove to protect you hand
from the heat.
With the exception of the start-up period, the ash pit door should never be left open. Serious damage
to the stove can occur from overheating. In extreme cases, this overheating could be the cause of an
“unfriendly re”.
Coal furnaces are subject to the same installation clearance standards as wood furnaces. Never burn
coal in any furnace that does not have an airtight, unied chimney system.
Coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney that has had a history of back-drafting or ow re-
versal. Also, coal furnaces should not be installed in any chimney having an excessively large ue. These
conditions can cause improper draft, resulting in carbon monoxide entering the house rather than being
drawn up the chimney. Remember, coal gases are toxic.
Sulfur dioxide, sulfur trioxide and other ions released from coal burning may corrode stainless and masonry
chimneys, and even terra cotta chimney liners and brick in nearby buildings. Coal with high sulfur content
will destroy chimneys especially fast if soot sits in the ue for extended lengths of time. It is important to
clean chimneys regularly.
safety - oPeration
Domestic Hot Water Coil
Part # 11WCK
accessories
CAUTION
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. KEEP
FURNISHINGS AND OTHER COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS A CONSIDERABLE
DISTANCE AWAY. TO AVOID EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURES, DO NOT OPER-
ATE WITH THE FUEL FEED AND ASH DOORS OPEN. TO PREVENT FLAME
AND SMOKE SPILLAGE, THE SLIDE BAFFLE MUST BE PULLED OUT AND
THE FEED DOOR MUST BE CRACKED FOR 10-15 SECONDS BEFORE DOOR
IS OPENED FULLY.
Page20 USSC
1.
2.
3.
Smoke puffs from furnace.
Check chimney draft. Check for blocked
chimney or ue pipe. Use mirror to check
chimney clearance.
Check ash pit - if too full, empty.
Make sure furnace room is not too airtight.
Make sure all chimney mortar connections
are air tight.
Check clean out door. Make sure it’s airtight.
Check chimney for possible down-draft
caused by taller surrounding trees or objects.
Correct with proper chimney vent cap.
Check the possibility of cold chimney forc-
ing cool gas blockage. Remedy by properly
insulating chimney with noncombustible liner
and non- combustible insulation.
Fuel may be too wet.
Make sure no other fuel burning devices are
connected to the chimney impairing the draft.
Inadequate heating being delivered
to your home.
Check home insulation - is it adequate?
Check hookup to furnace - is it installed cor-
rectly? (review manual)
Cool air inlet may be inadequate or furnace
room too airtight, 14” inlet for 12” outlet.
Your wood fuel may be too low grade. Hard
woods are recommended.
Make sure your hot air duct (and other duct
work) is airtight.
If furnace room is warm but your home isn’t,
check back draft dampers.
Is air inlet to the blower open? Check lters.
Fuel may be too wet.
Check draft blower cover, setting 1/2” open-
ing.
Rheostat setting is fully open.
Excess smoke or ames coming out door
when refueling.
Open bypass damper. Wait 15 seconds and
open door slowly - then refuel.
Check length of ue pipe to chimney. Your
unit should be within six (6) feet of your chim-
ney.
Make sure chimney cap is not too close to the
top of the chimney.
Check chimney draft-make sure chimney ue
pipe is clean and chimney is of adequate
height.
Make sure you’re not suffocating the re with
excess amounts of unburned fuel.
Distribution blower vibrating.
Tighten Allen Screw on squirrel cage.
Check for bad fan bearings.
Also oil 3-4 drops of 20w non detergent oil.
Distribution blower continues to run or
will not run.
Check to see if thermodisc 110 degrees (top
right side) is faulty. Use match or lighter for click
or jumper wire.
Check to see that blower is properly wired. (See
Wiring and Assembly Instructions).
Draft blower continues to run or will not
run.
Check rheostat switch for on position. Check
wiring.
Check thermostat or thermostat wire for short.
Make sure temperature is calling for or not
calling for heat. Set thermostat at 80 degrees.
Check to see if thermodisc 170 degrees (left
side) is faulty. Use match or lighter for click or
jumper wire.
Odor from rst re.
The odor remains, call your dealer immediately.
A defective weld can cause a fume leak.
Excessive creosote.
Check the grade of wood you are burning.
Make sure your unit is serviced by its own
proper chimney.
Check length of ue pipe and its connections.
Make sure you are burning the smallest, hottest
re to adequately heat your home.
Also see Solutions to Problem 1.
Use a magnetic surface thermometer on ue
pipe and operate between 300 and 400 de-
grees.
Poor seal around unit door.
Bend door latch in to tighten seals.
trouble shooting
A.
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C.
A.
B.
A.
B.
C.
A.
A.
B.
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D.
E.
F.
A.
A.
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