EASTMAN Kodascope D User manual
Panchromatic Kodascope Model D User Manual
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The Place to find Antique, Vintage, Retro or just plain used, 8 mm Super 8 mm 9.5 mm,
16 mm Film Projectors, Slide Transparency Projectors, Cameras and Darkroom
Equipment.
Kodascope
Model D
16 mm Format
Film Projector
User Manual
Service@Panchromatic.co.uk
Panchromatic Kodascope Model D User Manual
2
Instructions for operating the
Kodascope
Model D
Published by
EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
Rochester N.Y.
Panchromatic Kodascope Model D User Manual
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CONTENTS
Table of Parts 5
Setting Up the Kodascope 6
Threading 10
Operation 15
Rewinding 17
Care of the Kodascope 18
Oiling 18
Cleaning the Lenses and Mirrors 20
Cleaning the Gate 21
Replacing the Lamp 22
Care of the Film 23
Breakage of the Film 24
Titles 25
Duplicates 26
Copies of "Still" Pictures 27
Kodascope Rapid Rewind & Splicer 28
Kodascope Rewind & Splicer 28
Carrying Case for Kodascope Model D 29
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Instructions for the Operation of the Kodascope
To successfully operate the Kodascope, the instructions in this manual
should be carefully read and followed. The Kodascope is accurately
adjusted and is very simple to operate but, unless the few things which
have to be done by the operator are done correctly, there will be danger
of injuring the film. Before threading the film, it is best to familiarize
yourself with all the operations mentioned in this booklet. Then thread
the sample film, which you will find on the small reel, and practice
projecting and rewinding the film. In the Kodascope, the sprocket draws
the film from the supply reel and feeds if to the pull-down. The pull-
down draws the film intermittently past the aperture in the gate and the
same sprocket takes the film from the pull-down and feeds it to the
lake-up reel. The Kodascope can be run on either alternating or direct
current but must not he operated on a line carrying more than 125 volts
or less than 100 volts, either A.C. or D.C. If it is not known what voltage
your line carries inquire of your local electric service company. To obtain
the best illumination, check the voltage of the lamp in the Kodascope.
Because line-voltage is reduced with a heavy current load, obtain a lamp
with a voltage rating slightly lower than your line. For instance, if your
line-voltage is 115 to 120 volts the 1I5-volt lamp will be satisfactory.
Illumination of the Room
Before using the Kodascope, the room in which the pictures are to be
shown should be darkened sufficiently to allow the Kodascope to project
a brilliant image on the screen. This does not mean that the room
should he totally dark. If the lights are properly placed, the room may
be sufficiently light to read in, after the eyes of the occupants have
adjusted themselves to the subdued lighting. A floor or table lamp with a
dark colored shade may be left lighted if the light does not shine directly
in the eyes of the spectators and does not perceptibly reduce the
brilliance of the image on the screen. If the lamp throws too much light
at the top, a piece of brown paper cut to size can he inserted in the top
of the lamp shade. Very often the lights in rooms adjoining rooms in
which the Kodascope is used do not impair the brilliancy of the projected
pictures.
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Table of Parts
Part
Explanation
1
Upper Reel Support
Holds supply Reel
2
Lower Reel Support
Holds take-up Reel
3
Lens Barrel
Contains Projection Lens
4
Front Plate
Holds Lens Barrel
5
Spring Button
Keeps upper reel support in position. Page 7
6
Spring Button
Keeps lower reel support in position. Page 8
7
Spring Belt
Connect take up reel with driving Mechanism
8
Knob
Turns drive mechanism when threading film.
9
Pulley
Connect take up reel with driving Mechanism
10
Plug
Connect Kodascope to electric service line Page 15
11
Supply Reel
Holds Film to be projected Page 10
12
Supply Spindle
Furnishes a bearing for supply reel
13
Take up Reel
Takes up film after projection Page 13
14
Take up Spindle
Furnishes a bearing for take up reel
15
Spring Belt
Connect pull down shaft and pulley for rewinding
16/17
Roller
Keep film perforation in mesh with sprocket teeth
18
Sprocket
Draws and feeds film
19
Roller
Guides film to and from the pull down mechanism
20
Gate
Contains aperture picture is projected through
21
Upper Loop
Provides slack for the pull down Page 11/12/13
22/23
Roller
Keep film perforation in mesh with sprocket teeth
24
Lower Loop
Provides slack for the pull down Page 11/12/13
25
Arrow
Indicates direction take up reel turns
26
Framing Lever
Corrects registration of picture in gate aperture
27
Knob
For tightening the reel supports Page 8
28
Holder
For lens barrel when not in use
29
Cover
Protects pull down mechanism and holds mirror
30
Motor
Runs the Kodascope Page 15
31
Motor Shaft
Connects with spring belt to driving mechanism
32
Spring Belt
Connects motor with pull down mechanism
32
Speed Regulator Knob
Adjusts and controls speed of motor
34
Front Condensing Lens
Concentrates light used for projection Page 20
35
Pull Down
Draws the film passed the gate aperture Page 20
36
Mirror
Reflects light through aperture and lens Page 20
37
Spring
Keeps gate in position
38
Elevating Screw
Raises or lowers Kodascope to register on screen
39
Spring Catch
Fastens lamp house to Kodascope
40
Lamp House
Contains lamp for projection and reflector
41
Socket
Holds projection lamp Page 23
42
Disk
For disconnecting motor to make “still” pictures
43
Rear Condensing Lens
Concentrates light used for Projection Page 20 / 22
44/45
Screws
Fastens condensing lens and framer to Kodascope
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46
Socket
For attaching floor or table lamp Page 8
47
Switch
Turns on electric current motor and lamp Page 8
48
Pulley
For connecting belt for rewinding film Page 17
49
Pull Down Shaft
For connecting belt for rewinding film Page 15
50
Lamp Cover
Prevents excess light through lamp house Page 23
Setting Up the Kodascope
Place the Kodascope on a firm table or stand.
When first unpacked, the Kodascope will appear as in Fig.1.
The upper and lower reel supports 1 and 2 are folded.
The lens barrel is screwed into the holder 28, on the base of the
Kodascope
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Lift the upper reel support 1to the vertical position. The spring
button 5, Fig. 2, will snap into place and hold the reel support
rigidly, If the reel support cannot be raised easily, loosen it by
turning the knob 27, Fig. 3, to the left.
Unscrew the projection lens barrel 3 from the holder 28, Fig. 1,
page 6, and screw it into the socket in the front plate 4as shown
in Fig. 2. Be careful not to screw in the lens barrel so that it
touches the gate. (The screw motion is used to adjust the focus
later, see page 16.)
Swing out the lower reel support 2until the spring button 6 Fig 3
page 8, snaps into position. Be sure that the spring belt 7is in the
groove of the knob 8and of the pulley 9.
Tighten the two reel supports 1and 2, Figs. 2 and 3, by turning
knob 27 Fig. 3, to the right. This keeps the reel supports rigid.
To return the upper and lower reel supports to their former
positions it will first be necessary to loosen them by turning the
knob 27 to the left, then release the supports by pressing in the
two spring buttons 5and 6Figs. 2 and 3.
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To obtain illumination while threading the Kodascope, Changing
reels or preparing to rewind, 8 a floor or table lamp can be used
by connecting the cord from the lamp to the convenient socket 46,
Fig 3, on the switch 47, attached to the cord of the Kodascope.
This lamp will operate alternatively with the lamp in the
Kodascope. When the black button of the switch 47 is pushed in,
the table or floor lamp is turned on; when the red button is
pushed in for projection or rewinding, the floor or table lamp is
automatically turned off.
Before using Kodascope for the first time, it must he oiled, see
directions for oiling on pages 18, 19, 20 and 21.
Note: The rewind belt, 15 Fig. 3. be in the position as shown in the illustration,
While projecting pictures,
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Set up the screen so that its center is on a line with or a little higher
than the lens of the Kodascope.
On account of the different sizes of the screens used, The distances
between tile screen and the lens of the Kodascope will vary. The
distances will also vary with the different, focal lengths; of the lenses.
The 2-inch lens is supplied with the Kodascope. The correct distances
are given in the following table:
Size of Screen
One Inch Lens
Two Inch Lens
16½ x 22 inches
5 feet
10 feet
22 x 30 inches
6¾ feet
13½ feet
30 x 40 inches
9 feet
18 feet
39 x 52 inches
11½ feet
23 feet
45 x 60 inches
13 feet
26 feet
The plug 10 Fig 3, page 8 on the end of the cord, must be attached to
the prongs of the Kodascope as in Fig. 3. Connect the plug at the other
end of the cord with any electric service socket that is on a line of 100 to
125 volts, either A.C. or D.C. If there is a switch in the service socket,
turn it on then turn on the current by pushing in the red button on the
switch 17 Fig 3 page 8.
If the light does not fill the area of the screen, change the distance
between the Kodascope and screen. The closer the screen is to the
Kodascope, the smaller the size of the lighted area. Turn the lens barrel
3, Fig 2, page 7, until the margins of the lighted area are sharp, then
increase the distance between the Kodascope and screen until the
lighted area is a trifle larger than the screen.
Vertical adjustment to center the light area on the screen is made by
turning the elevating screw 38, Fig. 2 page 7.
Push the black button of the switch 47, Fig. 3, page 8 and thread the
Kodascope
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Threading
Place the reel of film or supply reel 11 on the supply spindle 12, Fig. 4,
so that the film draws from the part of the coil nearest the lamp house,
with the shiny side of film towards the center of the reel *and with the
picture upside down. Push in the supply reel 11 until the spring on the
spindle snaps into position. This spring keeps the reel from slipping off
the spindle.
Unwind the matte leader strip (about two feet for threading. Always use
these matte leaders at the beginning of your 400-foot reels.
Insert the film by sliding it between the two rollers 16 and 17 and he
upper part of sprocket 18 as shown in the above diagram. Be sure that
the film perforations engage with the teeth on the sprocket and that the
film comes between the rollers 17 and 19.
*Duplicate films (see page 26) are now made so that the dull side must be towards
the center of the supply reel.
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Slide the film sideways behind the gate 20, as shown in Fig. 5.
Start inserting the film at the upper end of the gate. Be sure that the
dull side of the film is towards the lens barrel 3, and that the film is
pushed all the way in, so that none of it projects beyond the edge of the
gate. If the film does not slide easily behind the gate, turn the knob 8,
Fig. 3, page 8, until the pull down-claws are withdrawn from the small
holes in the lower part of the gate.
When sliding the film behind the gate, form the upper loop 21, following
the white line on the Kodascope, as shown in Fig.6, page 12.
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Insert the film by sliding it between the two rollers 22 and 23 and the
lower part of sprocket 18 as in Fig. 6. Be sure that the film comes
between the rollers 19 and 23 and the film perforations engage with the
teeth on the sprocket, Fig. 6.
When sliding the film between the rollers and sprocket, form the lower
loop 24, following the guide line on the Kodascope, as shown in Fig. 7,
page 13.
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Place the empty or take-up reel 13, on the take-up spindle 14, as in Fig.
7. Be sure that the reel is pushed all the way in so that the spring on the
spindle snaps into position.
Thread the film on the reel, by holding the end of film against the core
and turning the take-up reel 13 at least one turn in a clockwise direction
shown by the arrow 25 on the Kodascope, as in Fig. 7. The small spring
fingers on the flanges of the reel prevent the film from slipping. Wind up
on the take-up reel any slack that there may be in the film between the
sprocket and reel core.
When the Kodascope is completely threaded, turn the knob 8, Fig. 9,
page 15, to the left or counter-clockwise a few tunes to see that the film
is threaded properly, and that the claws of the pull-down 35, Fig 13,
page 20 engage with the film perforations.
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Figure 8 shows the Kodascope set-up and properly threaded ready for
projecting.
Be sure that the upper and lower loops, 21 and 24 are of the proper
size. These loops provide slack in the film between the continuously
moving sprocket and the intermittently moving pull-down. They should
be formed as shown above, Fig, 8, following the guide lines on the
Kodascope.
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Operation
After the Kodascope is properly threaded, push in the red button of the
switch 47, Fig 9. When the current is turned on it automatically lights
the lamp and starts the motor at the same time. If the motor does not
start at once, revolve the adjusting knob 33, Fig. 9, to the right or
clockwise; then if the mechanism does not start, turn the knob 8, Fig. 9,
counter-clockwise.
Regulate the speed of the motor by revolving the adjusting knob 33, Fig.
9, to the right or left. The film should pass the opening in the gate at
the rate of 16 individual frames a second. The motor is running the
Kodascope at the proper speed when the dot on the know 8, Fig. 9, is
turning at the rate of two revolutions per second; if the motor is run too
slowly the pictures will flicker.
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If the picture is not sharp on the screen, focus the Kodascope by turning
the lens barrel 3, Fig. 10.
When the picture on the screen shows a white strip at the top or bottom
or the edge of the next picture on the film, in other words, it does not
“frame” properly, push the framing lever 26, Fig. 10, forward or
backward as may be required. After moving the framing lever 26, it may
be necessary to readjust the elevating screws 38, Fig 10, to make the
picture register properly on the screen.
If the picture on the screen is upside down, and if the action is
backwards, the film has not been rewound. If the subject is reversed,
left and right, the dull side of the film is away from the lens barrel 3, Fig.
10; this will occur if the reel was turned in the wrong direction or the
film was twisted when rewinding by hand with the Kodascope rewind, or
when rewinding on the Kodascope. When rewinding film on the
Kodascope, he sure the belt 15, is twisted as shown in Fig. 11, page 17.
When a still picture is desired of any subject during projection, revolve
the disk 42 Fig. 10, by the handle until it is at the top of the disk, to the
position shown in Fig. 10. The stud on the disk draws the spring belt
away from the motor shaft and stops the movement of the film. If the
shutter is closed when the pull-down mechanism is stopped, turn the
knob 8, Fig. 9, a trifle to open it. To start the action again, revolve the
disk 42 bringing the handle to its former position.
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If the picture on the screen is extremely unsteady, it is probably caused
by the loss of either the upper or lower loop. This will sometimes
happen if some of the film perforations are broken, If this should occur,
stop the mechanism at once by pushing the black button of the switch
47, Fig, 9. Turn the knob 8, Fig. 1, until the pull-down claws are
withdrawn from the gate. Adjust the sizes of the upper and lower loops
21 and 24, Fig. 8, page 14 by sliding the film up or down. Follow the
guide lines on the Kodascope as shown in Fig. 8, page 14. If there are
broken perforations, they should be noted and the film repaired when it
is rewound. The section of film that contains the broken perforations
must be removed and the ends spliced together. See directions included
with the splicing outfit.
Rewinding
After the film has been projected it is necessary to rewind it so that
when it is shown again it will be in the right order, and the back or shiny
side will be towards the center of the reel.
Duplicate films (see page 26) are now made so that the dull side must be towards
the center of the supply reel.
Attach the film to the empty reel by pressing the end of the film against
the core of the reel. Give the reel a few turns by hand, in the direction
indicated by the arrow in Fig. 11, to make sure the end is securely
attached. If there are no spring fingers on the flanges of the empty reel,
it will be necessary to thread the end of the film into the slot in the core
of the reel.
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To connect the motor for rewinding, remove the spring belt 7from the
lower reel pulley 9as in Fig. 11. Place the spring belt 15 Figs. 9 and 11,
onto the upper reel pulley 48, giving the belt a twist as shown in Fig. 11.
Be sure that the belt 15 is in the groove on the pull-down shaft 49, Fig.
9, page 15, and the groove of the upper reel pulley 48, Fig, 11, and that
the belt 15 is twisted a shown in Fig. 11.
The Kodascope must he connected to an electric outlet, then the red
button of the switch 47 Fig, 11. The motor will now turn the empty reel
and rapidly wind the film from the full reel onto the empty one. Apply a
slight retarding pressure with the fingers, to the lower reel to keep it
steady and prevent the film from unwinding too rapidly. Allow the film to
run freely enough to avoid “cinching”
See that the film is not twisted; a film can be ruined by careless
rewinding.
After rewinding, change the position of the spring belts 7and 15, Fig.
11, bringing them to the positions as shown in Fig. 9, page 15, before
again projecting.
Slack film should be taken up by rewinding the film onto another reel
slowly, and then winding with an even tension and at uniform speed
back onto the first reel. Never try to take up slack by holding a reel in
one hand and pulling the end of the film with the other or very bad
'cinch" marks will be produced.
Films tented from the Kodascope Libraries, Inc., should not be rewound when they
are returned to the Library.
Care of the Kodascope
Oiling
The Kodascope must be oiled before using for the first time, and it must
be kept clean. Obviously all machinery needs oil and this Kodascope
should be oiled at intervals which depend upon the frequency of it use.
There are 14 places that should be lubricated and all places where oil
should be applied are indicated in Fig. 13, page 20 and Fig. 14 on page
21. Be sure that all points marked "OIL" are supplied at each oiling.
Every place where oil must be used is painted red on the Kodascope.
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.
Remove the cover 29 as shown in Fig. 12. The cover is fastened by
means of two projections at the top and one at the bottom, which fit
into holes on the edges of the frame around the pull-down mechanism.
Never remove the cover 29 while the Kodascope is running.
Kodascope Oil, a bottle of which is supplied with the Kodascope is
preferable to any other, but ordinary sewing machine or “3 in 1”oil may
be used. In any case use only very small quantities. A drop or two in
each oil hole and at each bearing point is sufficient. Apply the oil with
the wire fastened in the cork of the bottle.
To oil the motor, apply a drop or two of oil in each hole at the two
places indicated in Fig, 14, page 21. Do not oil the motor at any other
place.
After oiling the Kodascope, replace the cover 29, Fig. 12, pushing it on
so that the two catches at the top and the one at the bottom snap into
position.
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Cleaning the Lenses and Mirrors
The lenses of the Kodascope should be' cleaned whenever necessary.
Dirt on the lenses will cause the picture on the screen to appear cloudy
or flat. Remove the lens barrel 3, by unscrewing it from the front plate
4, Fig. 13. With a soft clean, lintless cloth, carefully wipe the two lens
surfaces, also wipe the condensing lenses 34, Fig. 13, and 43, Fig. 16,
page 23.
To clean the rear surface of the front condensing lens 34, Fig. 13, first
remove the two screws 44 and 45, Fig. 13, push back the lower end of
the framing lever 26, and lift out the lens. After replacing the lens, be
sure to replace the framing lever to the position shown in Fig. 13, and
then tighten the two screws.
To clean the rear condensing lens 43, Fig. 16, page 23, first remove the
lamp house and the lamp as described on pages 22 and 23, then revolve
the condensing lens by the flange until the three notches on the flange
are at the studs. Now remove the lens and wipe both sides of it. After
replacing the lens be sure to revolve the flange to fasten the lens
securely. Do not moisten the cloth used for cleaning lenses.
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