Ezytrail K-Series Stirling LX User manual

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K-Series Stirling LX
Set-up Guide

1
INDEX
2 Maintenance Guide
7 Safety Tips
8 Set-Up Guide
16 K-Series Power Control Panel
17 Troubleshooting Guide
18 Periodic Maintenance Schedule
20 Camping Tips
22 Pre-Journey Checklist
23 Camping Checklist
24 Pole Diagram
25 Fridge Chart

Maintenance Guide
Maintenance Recommendations:
Depending on the amount of kilometres travelled and the type of road surface encountered
during a trip, maintenance of your trailer and tent is a must on your return to ensure your long
term enjoyment of your trailer. When planning a trip you will no doubt spend much time making
sure the tow vehicle is prepared for the road ahead, so it follows that the trailer should also be
checked out as well. [cfr. Periodic Maintenance Schedule page 18-19 for service intervals]
Maintenance Tips for your Camper Trailer:
Check condition and air pressure of trailer tires and spare tire regularly.
Check the fastening of the jockey wheel and stabiliser legs bolts.
Check the wheel nuts are tight.
Check the hand brake and electric brakes are adjusted and in good condition.
oAdjust brake shoes if brakes are loose.
Check cables for potential damage.
Check the hitch anchor bolts are tight and have enough grease in the hitch.
Check all lights are working.
Repack wheel bearings and adjust if necessary after long or rough terrain trips.
Touch up any stone chips quickly to prevent rust stains.
After returning from your trip, empty out all water from water tank.
Tips for Caring for Canvas Tent:
Always make sure the tent is clean and dry. If the tent was wet when packed up then it
must be erected as soon as possible on your return home to dry out to prevent mould
and stains.
Always return all zippers & mesh screens to the closed position before folding the tent.
Always have the tent fully zipped before tying down with guy ropes.
Zippers are delicate items and care must always be taken when using them
To assist with fast tent set up, devise a way to keep the tent poles separate from the PVC
cover
When not in use the trailer should never be left out in the open weather without a
storage cover.
Although our tents/annexes are constructed to rigid specifications, they should not be left
unattended for long periods of time during inclement weather. Long periods of rain may soak
the ground so that pegs become loose and/or the frame uprights may sink into the ground. One
or both of the above will weaken the rigidity of the overall structure since its strength depends
on a taught erected condition.
Water pockets may form in the roof if the unit is not erected taught, further adding to the load
on the frame supports and possibly causing a broken frame, bent poles as well as roof leakage.
2

Pre-Use & Maintenance Instructions
Weathering:
All products must be assembled prior to use and inspected for accuracy and parts. This also gives
you an opportunity to familiarise yourself with your tent set-up and to make sure you have all
necessary components. At this time the product should be hosed with water to allow seam take
up. You may find that in first wettings some leakage occurs through the seams and canvas. This
is not a fault of the manufacturer, but a natural characteristic of the blend of canvas and
synthetic fabrics. For this reason your canvas product must be erected and thoroughly saturated
and then allowed to dry prior to its first use. This procedure (weathering) should be followed a
number of times –3 times as recommendation, this causes the fabric to shrink and help close up
fibres and seams which may cause leakage. Do not over tension seams at this stage. Any
persistent drips may need proofing with a suitable seam sealing solution.
Stitch Holes:
Every care is taken to ensure that your canvas tent is made using the finest water repellent fabric.
However, canvas products are not permanent structures and in extreme conditions some water
may penetrate. Seepage may occur in the seams through the needle holes created in the sewing
process. This is normal and can be corrected with the application of seam sealing compound. It
is suggested you purchase a wax stick or water proofing compound to keep with your camping
equipment.
Storage:
Canvas products have excellent fungus resistance. As a result you can pack your canvas product
wet if necessary for a short period of time. However, we recommend that the canvas product
should not be left wet for more than 24 hours. Dry your canvas product thoroughly and dust off
any foreign particles before storage. Fold your canvas product loosely and store in a dry place
off the ground.
Cleaning:
Do not use a washing machine or any detergents as this may destroy your proofing. Remove
dust, etc. with a soft brush and warm water. If it is necessary to use a mild detergent or canvas
mildew remover, reproof the area with suitable waterproofing compound.
Wicking:
Your canvas product will not leak if you touch the canvas. However, if you rub your finger back
and forth continuously on the canvas you may eventually draw water through (wicking). For this
reason it is advisable not to have anything touching your canvas product. Similarly, if canvas is
left to pool, water may draw through the fabric causing leakage. This is not considered to be a
defect.
Zips:
All care is taken in the design to cover zips with storm flaps or position them where wa ter will
not flow. At times wind driven rain could force water under the flaps and through the zips. To
minimise this, make sure all doors and windows are closed with flaps securely covering the zip
wherever possible.
3

Zipper Care:
All zippers on your canvas product will give you years of service. However, care must be taken
when using your zips. Never force a zipper - reduce tension so all zippers run smoothly without
straining.
Have zips closed when pegging out the tent.
Have zips open slightly (to allow air into the tent) during erection.
Before final tensioning of a tent close all zips.
Always use two hands to operate zippers.
Damaging your product from over tensioning may void your warranty.
Reducing the Risk of Jamming Fabric in the Zip:
When using the zip, hold the pull-tab between your thumb and forefinger with your
thumb facing you.
As you are closing the zip, clear the way in front and under the zip slider using the back
of your hand and cup the zip slider underneath with your remaining 3 fingers.
Use this action for opening or closing. Keep the fabric clear of the zip slider - zip and unzip
slowly.
What to do if the Zipper Gets Caught:
Pull the fabric bit by bit out of the slider. Do not try and pull all the fabric in one go.
Do not force the slider or the fabric.
If the Slider Does Not Close the Zipper Properly:
With use the jaws of a zip slider can open slightly over time. This can be exaggerated
quickly if fabric is caught into the zipper. When this occurs the slider does not compress
and interlock zipper coil teeth tightly enough and the zip bursts open or does not close.
To fix this, simply undo the zip and with the slider at the end of the zip lightly crimp the
jaws of the zip slider together with a pair of pliers.
Crimping Instructions for a Zip Slider:
The most common reason why zips burst open is that the zip slider does not close the
coil tight enough. Commonly wear and tear or fabric jamming will cause the gap marked
“A” to increase, diagram below.
By gently “crimping” the slider together at points “B” and “C” with a pair of pliers, gap
“A” can be adjusted most times to its correct opening, see drawing below. Crimping in
other planes is worth a try if “B” and “C” fails to rectify the problem. This crimping is done
when the zip slider is still attached to the zip coil and is in the fully open position.
4

Caring for your Galvanised Steel Poles, Pole Joiners and Zips:
Buckland & Stirling Z customers
Your steel poles have been hot dip galvanised to provide long life with minimum corrosion. Salt,
sand, dirt and water are the enemy of any steel product and zip. Make sure the poles and zips
are always clean and dry before storage. When the poles and zips have been used in damp,
dusty, sandy or salty conditions they must be cleaned and coated with a thin film of oil or silicon
based liquid spray before storage. Many of the frame poles are connected with pole joiners
which are designed to keep your poles organised and to allow quick assembly of the pole frame.
Over stretching or dropping the poles will easily damage the pole joiners and this is not covered
by the warranty. Please make sure you handle the poles carefully, especially when unpacking
and packing away into the carry bag.
Condensation:
When warm moist air meets cooler air, condensation of water gas into water liquid occurs. The
Camper Trailer Tent walls and roof form an impermeable layer between the inside and outside
climatic conditions. The moisture inside the tent condenses on the canvas fabric and water
droplets are formed. Sometimes these water droplets build up to appear that the fabric is leaking
when in fact the cause is condensation. Condensation can be reduced if the Camper Trailer Tent
is well ventilated to reduce the build-up of warm moist air on the ceiling.
Floor:
If the ground is very wet or water pools under the floor, then the downward pressure of standing
or kneeling on the floor can draw water through minute wear holes in the floor fabric or where
there are joins in the floor fabric. To prevent this, do not set up the camper trailer tent in hollows
and make sure water drains away from the tent site.
Structural Integrity:
A well set up camper trailer tent on level ground is structurally strong and the most water-
resistant. During periods of prolonged rain and wind it may be necessary to tighten and adjust
the frame, pegs and guy ropes as well as making sure any ground water is flowing away from the
camp site. A sagging roof or awning weakens the Camper Trailer Tent structure and could allow
water to pond on the roof causing leakage, structural damage and fabric tears.
Electric Brakes:
If your trailer is an off road model –it will probably have electric trailer brakes. Listed below is
how to connect these –if at the time of pick up –you did not yet have your electric brake
controller fitted to your car. Failure to use the electric brakes –can be dangerous and is
recommended to get a controller fitted ASAP.
1. Firstly, unscrew 7 pin (round or flat) plug to reveal wiring.
2. Blue wire is for electric brakes.
3. Connect blue wire to 5th pin on the inside of the trailer connection
4. Under trailer, located close to the right hand side wheel and suspension setup, you will
find two plastic plugs (a male and female) that need to be connected.
5. Connect both the male and female plugs together.
(You may need to cut zip tie to bring plugs together)
5

6. Now test your trailer’s electric braking system. Connect your 7 pin plug to your tow
vehicle.
7. Ensure your vehicle’s control unit is switched on. Have someone engage the brakes on
the tow vehicle –whilst the car is stationery.
8. The second person goes to the trailer wheel and listens for a humming noise. No
humming noise –means that the brakes are not yet connected –follow step 1 to 7
again to ensure correct fitment.
9. Now follow brake controller instruction manual for correct setup of your controller and
test as per their recommendations.
Water tank:
Your water tank is brand new and needs to be cleaned and flushed before use.
Before first use –please fill you tank with 30 or so litres of water and 5 to 10ml of vanilla essence.
This will help to take any smells and tastes from the water tank. Let this sit for a day or two and
then flush out. We recommend that before each trip –you flush your tank and refill with fresh
water.
4 Stove Burner:
Connect the water and gas as shown (A). Both have click and twist connectors. To switch on the
stove, simply turn the flame regulator counter-clockwise while pushing down (B); the clicking
noise stops when the flame is activated. First time might take a while as gas travels from the
trailer front. Make sure gas bottle and gas line regulator are open. To replace the battery of the
stove, you simply lift the stove out of its frame. The battery box contains 1x Type D battery (C).
Caution:
Cleaners that use bleach as an ingredient should not be used. Bleach can cause fading and lead
to damage of the canvas fabric, the stitching and the waterproofing.
The pole joiners within the poles are provided for easy assembly of the frame. The pole joiners
are not required for any structural reason and the poles perform perfectly well without the pole
(A)
(A)
(B)
(C)
6

joiners. Age, over-stretching and mishandling may cause failure. Pole joiners are not covered by
warranty.
Always carry a roll of heavy duty tape for simple repairs to small rips, cuts and ash burns. The
tape not only blocks the hole, it will minimise any further tearing.
When removing pegs do not use the webbing attached to your Camper Trailer Tent as a handle.
Either use another peg, a peg remover or the claw of a hammer hooked under the peg to remove
them. A couple of taps with a hammer on the side of the peg or some twisting will often help
release the peg from the ground.
Safety Tips & Instructions
Camp Safe –Safety Habits:
Fabric used in the construction of your camper trailer tents has been treated with a mild
retardant. This retardant treatment reduces the rate at which the fabric will burn, however the
fabric will still burn if it comes into direct contact with a flame or heat source.
The application of any foreign substance to the fabric such as some water proofing treatments
or insect sprays may render the fire retardant treatment process ineffective.
The following covers several safety tips that will help you avoid some of the common hazards
encountered on a camping trip.
To Prevent Injury Caused by Gas Poisoning or Suffocation:
• Gas, fumes or lack of oxygen within the Camper Trailer Tent could result in unconsciousness,
brain damage and even death.
• Always ensure the Camper Trailer Tent is well ventilated. Even on the coldest night do not
close every vent, window and door. A well ventilated Camper Trailer Tent not only maintains
healthy oxygen levels, but also reduces condensation build up on the inside of the fabric.
• Do not use fuel burning devices that consume oxygen inside the Camper Trailer Tent. These
include candles, gas lanterns, kerosene lamps, stoves, cooking and heating appliances.
• Do not use gas appliances of any kind inside the Camper Trailer Tent.
To Prevent Injury Caused by Fire:
• Do not set up the Camper Trailer Tent near a camp fire or any other flame source.
• Do not use candles, matches or any other flame source in or near the Camper Trailer Tent.
This includes stoves, cooking equipment, lighting and heating appliances.
• Use only recommended non-flammable water repellent compounds on the canvas fabric.
• Do not spray canvas fabrics with insecticides
To Prevent Injury Caused by Electricity:
Always exercise care when using electricity and electric lighting in and near the Camper Trailer
Tent. Only use 12 volt or less for lighting.
7

STAGE ONE: PRESET
1. The first thing to do when you come to camp is to pick a nice piece of flat ground and unhitch your trailer.
Set the handbrake Lower the jockey wheel to take the
weight of the trailer
Take off hitch lock, push pin to the
outside and unscrew the hitch bolt
Disconnect your trailer plug & any
other elec. connections to the trailer
Don’t forget the safety chains Place your wheel chocks in front of
your wheels
Raise Jockey Wheel to disconnect
trailer from vehicle
Flip the hitch over to clear space to
drive vehicle away
Lower all legs into position & Use
your winder tool to level the trailer
8

STAGE ONE: PRESET 2. Unlatch the boat loader rack and push it up and away from the trailer, it can lock either horizontally or
vertically depending what you have attached to it and how much space you have.
Unlock the locking pin Release the over-centre catches
Remove the locking bolts on the
other side of the trailer
Push the rack up and away The rack can be locked horizontally
(Replace the bolts to lock in the rack)
Or it can be locked vertically
(Replace the bolts to lock in the rack)
3. Now undo the catch and lower the spare wheel carrier to the horizontal position.
Unlock the carrier Lower it out of the way of the rear
slide
5. Then unlatch all your catches and lift the lid by about 500mm, this is so when you start winching the lid
lifts rather than pulls straight against the hinges
Release the over-centre catches Lift the lid around 500mm or so
before winching
Unwind your winches Attach hooks to the anchor points
4. Next unwind both the forward and rear winches about 3.5-4m and attach to the anchor points
ANCHOR POINTS:
Front winch to rear anchor point
Rear winch to side anchor point
9

STAGE two: POLE LAYOUT
These have either a spigot or c clip
on one end and a rubber foot on the
other, these are used like normal tent
poles.
E3 & B1-B3: A C-clip
& Spigot upright pole
Ridge Poles: These have a hook in
one end and a flat piece on the other,
these support your annexe roof.
C2: A ridge pole
Spreader Bars: These come with ei-
ther c clips or flat ends and these are
used between two ridge poles or tent
bows to hold them in position
D1 & D3:A C-clip spreader bar
6. Using the front winch, wind until the trailer floor goes just past 90 degrees, it will then start to fall before
the rear winch catches it. Once it is supported by the rear winch, use that to lower the lid down onto the
front of the trailer.
Use the front winch to get the lid
past 90 degrees
Then use the rear winch to safely
lower the lid into position
The winch should lock into position
like this
10

Before you get stuck into setting up the inside of your trailer, take the time to get your poles out and organise
them into groups. There are a couple of pole types that you will need to be aware of.
Spreader Bars: These come with ei-
ther c clips or flat ends and these are
used between two ridge poles or tent
bows to hold them in position
A1,A2 & A3: A flat spreader bar
Window Stays: These have a hook in
one end and spigot on the other and
are used for holding the windows
open.
F1: A window stay
Corner Stays: These have a rubber
foot and a c clip and are generally
shorter than an upright
E1: Corner Stays:
EZY TIP
With seasoning your main tent and canvas, take your time to set up your camper trailer perfectly. Then mark
your poles’ perfect height and use colour coded strips. This will reduce next time’s set-up time exceedingly.
11

Now, before we get into the tent there are two other types of poles you need to know about.
Other end of the roof bow
One end of your roof bow Example of a tent bow
STAGE three: inside
Now it’s time to setup your tent, this stage can take as little as 10 minutes once you become well practiced, but
be prepared for your first time to take a little longer
1. Locate your door key, and use this to open the door of the trailer, this is always the first thing you do
before going into the trailer and the last thing you do before folding trailer back up when you pack up.
Make sure you do this before you close up your camper otherwise the gas struts get in the way and may
stop you from being able to close the door.
2. Climb inside and unlatch the rear slide using the locating pin inside the seating area, then get back outside
and slide it into position, its best to have a friend help with this, as the locating pin needs to be reinserted
once the slide is at full extension.
3. Next, work your way around the trailer and make sure all the press studs are connected so the canvas holds
in place
Use the key provided to unlock the
door
Slide your rear bed out after unlock-
ing the latches and the pin inside
The locking pin needs to be released
inside before sliding the bed out
Attach the press studs while the
canvas is still slack
The Roof Bow The Tent Bow
12

3. Next, work your way around the trailer and make sure all the press studs are connected so the canvas holds
in place
4. Grab four c-clip spreader bars and two small corner stays and climb inside your trailer
Use the Velcro to attach the roof bow
to the roof
5. If your trailer is brand new check that all bows are correctly attached to the canvas you do this by using the
Velcro to hold them in place
6. Start by putting in two of your spreader bars between the living area bow and the centre bow then climb
up onto the bed
Attach the longer c-clip spreader bar
9. Work your way back extending all bows then spreader bars, but take care not to make it too tight it can
open up seams and cause water to get in. Canvas shrinks as it weathers so your trailer may appear a little
saggy when you first set it up but over time it will shrink and tighten up.
This is the most basic setup for those quick overnight stays where you don’t need the extra undercover area
that the annexe provides. If you are planning a longer stay however you’ll want to set up the annexe.
7. Raise the bed bow and extend out until side walls are from but not tight
Here’s what it should look like with
the bed (centre) bow raised
8. Then put in your corner stays and the other 2 spreader bars, extend the corner stays and lock in place
Pop in your corner stays at the front
of the trailer
The main tent is now set and ready
for sleeping in. Note that there is still
a little slackness in the canvas.
13
13

Annexe: Your annexe will take approximately 20-30 minutes to setup completely
and is best done with at least 2 people.
1. The first step is to unfold your annexe canvas and lay it out on the ground, make sure its sitting the right
way and you have a nice pile of all your annexe walls and shower room off to one side
4. Then lower your centre bow to make it easier to attach the annexe, this can be done without doing this but
this is much easier
Lay out your canvas Two pairs of hands will make the job
much easier
Use a window stay to help the zip
along
2. Now lay out all the poles we need before starting, for the Stirling we need 3 x ridgepoles, 3 x flat end
spreader bars, 3 x c clip spreader bars and 2 x c clip uprights
3. Start off by inserting the hooked end of the ridge poles through the canvas holes putting the hook through
the loop inside the tent, this is easier to do with a friend helping
6. Once all your ridgepoles are in & the annexe roof is attached, start at one end and put up the upright and
add in the flat spreader poles, and then last of all put the canvas over the top with the upright spigot
through the eyelet and use the plastic hook to secure. It’s best to have your mate or partner help with this
part, it’s really a two-person job.
Laying out your poles will make the
job much easier
Insert the hooked end of the pole
through the loops on each tent bow
Upright pole, followed by the ridge
pole, then the flat end spreader bar.
7. Once all the perimeter uprights and spreader bars are up, it’s time to put in the c clip uprights and
spreader bars
C-clip spreader bars stop water from
pooling in bad weather
All Ezytrail annexes are free standing, but always best and we suggest that you always use guy ropes, especially
if there is a chance of wind.
STAGE Four: Outside
5. Here’s a little trick for you, instead of trying to climb up and zip the annexe on, once you get the zip
started use a window stay to help the zip along
14

Annexe WALLS: If you want a bit more privacy from other campers or the weather looks like
turning and you want to batten down the hatches, you’ll want to attach your annexe walls. It’s a fairly simple process
and shouldn’t take you more than 15 minutes to do.
1. The first step is to lay out your annexe walls, make sure that the side with the PVC flap is going to be on the
inside of your trailer, this will make sure the d-ring is on the outside and you can peg down your walls
2. Once again with the help of a friend start the zippers and zip away. Make sure you don’t forget to push
down the velcro for a good seal
3. Peg out all your walls using the d-rings that are positioned around the perimeter
This job is much easier with the help
of a friend
Pegging out the walls will help keep
them quiet if it gets windy, as well as
adding strength to the structure
4. If you are putting the PVC floor in, this is the time to do it, once it is all pegged out, this simply velcros on
and thanks to that PVC flap there is no change of water getting in
And there you have it, the Stirling LX setup, and ready for anything! If you have any questions, feel free to give
your local Ezytrail dealer a call. If you have a tip or hint that you would like to share with other Ezytrail owners
jump onto the Ezytrail Facebook page and have your say!
Lay out your walls to begin with
Getting a mate to put pressure on
the outside while you fasten the Vel-
cro will make the job much simpler
15

K-Series Power Control Panel
When connected (image), you can use the Anderson Plug on your drawbar to charge the batteries.
Charging batteries is done via Anderson connection at your car, solar panel or
Inverter.
[Red Digits] A full charged battery sits between 12.8 and 13.2. A charging battery (image) might show a slightly higher value. As soon as disconnected, the value balances itself to normal. [Blue Digits]
What is drawn from the bat
teries at a
specific moment.
A visual indicator of the battery
charge.
16

Trouble Shooting Guide
Possible Remedies
Symptoms
Adust the Stabiliser Legs
Adjust Jockey Wheel
Open the gas regulator in the
front tool box
Is the gas hose connected to the
gas bottle and/or the gas fitting
at the back of the trailer
Switch on 'Plug' switch in Power
Control Panel
Switch on the 50A fuse in the
Power Control Panel
Switch on the fan in the fridge
slide to pressurise the
compartement
Adjust all latches and brackets
from factory preset to a tighter
seal position
Fill up your water tanks till
maximum to avoid inverted
water flow
Open the outdoors panel to
release the trip switches, heater
will engage automatically with
switches on
Switch on 'Socket' Plug on the
power control panel and switch
on the two gas heater switches
The trailer isn't sitting level
• •
There is no gas flowing to the
kitchen • •
The Fridge doesn't power up
•
The batteries are not charging via the Anderson plug
•
Dust is getting into the fridge area/elsewhere
• •
The solar panel doesn't charge the batteries
•
The water pump keeps on
priming •
The gas heater is not working
(Parkes 13) • •
17

ITEM/COMPONENT
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
3 Months/
1000Km 2500Km
6 Months/
5000Km 7500Km
12 Months/
10000Km 12500Km
18 Months/
15000Km 17500Km
24 Months/
20000Km 22500Km
30 Months/
25000Km 27500Km
BATTERY CONDITION
T T I T T I T T I T T I T T I T T I
BRAKE CABLE
I/A I/A II/A I/A II/A/L I/A/L II/A I/A II/A/L I/A/L II/A I/A I
BRAKE LININGS
A A I/A AI/C/A AI/C/A I/C/A A A I/C/A AI/C/A I/C/A A A I/C/A A
CHASSIS LUBE
I I L I L I L L I I L I L L I I L I
ELECTRIC WINCHES
I I I I I I I I/L I I I I I/L I/L I I I I
ELV POWER SYSTEM
T T I I I I I/T I/T I I I I I/T I/T I I I I
HAND WINCHES
I I I I/C I/C II/C I/C II/C I/C II/C I/C II/C I/C I
HITCH
A A I I I/L/A II/L/A I/L/A I I I/L/A II/L/A I/L/A I I I/L/A I
HV POWER SYSTEM
T T I I I I I/T I/T I I I I I/T I/T I I I I
JOCKEY WHEEL
A A I I I I I/A I/A I I I I I/A I I I I I
LOCKS AND HINGES
I/A I/A I I I/C II/L/A I/L/A I I I/C II/L/A I/L/A I I I/C I
LPG SYSTEM
T T I T T I I/T I/T I T T I I/T I/T I T T I
PANEL AND PAINT
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
PLUMBING SYSTEM
T T I/C I/T I/T I/C I/T I/T I/C I/T I/T I/C I/T I/T I/C I/T I/T I/C
SEALS AND GROMMETS
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
SIGNALLING LIGHTS
I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T I/T
STRUCTURAL FIXINGS
A A I I I/A II/A I/A I I I/A II/A I/A I I I/A I
SUSPENSION BUSHES
I I I I L I L RCL I I L I RCL RCL I I L I
SUSPENSION TORQUE
A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A
TYRE PRESSURE
I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A
VENT FILTER
C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
I/A I/A II/A I/A II/A I/A II/A I/A II/A I/A II/A I/A I
WHEEL BEARINGS
A A I A RCL I RCL R I A RCL I R R I A RCL I
WHEEL NUTS
I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A I/A
18