Husqvarna DM 220 Instruction manual

HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
Workshop manual
DM 220

2115 42 19-26
1. LITERATURE 3
2. COMPONENTS, WORK TIPS 4
3. WATER/DUST UNIT 6
4. DISMANTLING IN BASIC MODULES 7
5. GEAR HOUSING – INTERMEDIATE SHAFT 9
6. GEAR HOUSING – SPINDLE SHAFT 12
7. GEAR HOUSING – BEARING REPLACEMENT 14
8. CARBON BRUSHES 16
9. WIRING DIAGRAM – CABLING, 110 V 17
WIRING DIAGRAM – CABLING, 230 V 18
10. CIRCUIT BOARDS – CABLING 19
11. ROTOR 21
12. STATOR 23
13. TOOLS 24
HUSQVARNA
DM 220
CONTENTS Page

3
115 42 19-26
LITERATURE 1
Workshop manual
This workshop manual covers virtually all work
in the workshop that involves the DM220.
Some very simple and rather obvious repair
work has been omitted.
Disposition
Introductory sections entitled “Water/dust unit”
and “Dismantling in basic modules” show the
basic structure of the machine. This arrangement
means that mechanics who have no experience
of the machine must start with these chapters.
Later on, the manual describes in detail in the
various chapters how the work is to be executed
for the basic modules.
Arrangement – illustrations and text
In addition to graphics and illustrations, there
are sometimes two text columns. The left-hand
text column gives a brief explanation and is
intended for experienced mechanics, whereas
the right-hand column is a more detailed des-
cription and is intended for mechanics with less
experience of repair work for this type of
machine.
Contents
The manual is divided into numbered chapters
as well as chapter headings that are specied in
bold at the top of each page.
The list of contents also has page references to
the start of each chapter.
Spares
Spares DM 220
The folder includes all spares for Husqvarna
DM220.
The folder contains complete exploded
drawings for the whole machine where the
location, spares number and appearance of
each component is easy to identify.
HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
Workshop manual
DM 220
IPL, DM 220, 2011-03, 577 28 56-01
DM 220
Reservdelar
Spare parts
Ersatzteile
Pieces de rechange
Piezas de repuesto
Ricambi
Peças sobresselente
HUSQVARNA CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS
577 28 56-01
“Dismantling in basic modules”
“Gear housing” (Example)

4
COMPONENTS, WORK TIPS
2
Components
1. Drill spindle
2. Water connection/dust extraction
3. Gear knob
4. Gear housing
5. Gear box cover
6. Electronic spirit level
7. Power indicator
8. Electric motor
9. Inspection cover for carbon brushes
10. Circuit breaker
11. Circuit breaker lock
12. Rear handle
13. Mains cable
14. Earth fault breaker
15. Stand mount and oil plug under
the cover
16. Front handle
17. Water hose (connects at 2)
18. Sleeve for dust extractor (connects at 2)
115 42 19-26
14
1
4
8
9
3
6
15
5
10
2
12
16 13
11
17
18
7
Two different types
DM 220 has been updated and the later building has the gearbox bolted from the
front for easier access.
The two different types will be called:
Type A
Type B
Two procedures differ between the types
• Dismantling of gear housing/gear box cover
• Adjusting the slip clutch
The difference between the types can be seen on the gear housing. On type B, the
screws attaching the Gear housing to the Gear box cover are visible.

Work tip
The easiest and most convenient way of executing
virtually all service work on the DM220 is with the
machine in a vertical position with the drill spindle
facing downwards.
Do it yourself
A xture for securing the machine in a vice is easily
made using a wood block and a pair of steel plates.
The wood block should be at an equal height to the
drill spindle, about
55 mm. Drill a hole with a diameter of 1 1/4 inches,
corresponding to around 32 mm, in the block.
The two steel plates secure the wood block horizon-
tally in the vice.
It is even easier to drill a hole in the work bench.
Warning
A workshop often has a range of electrical tools at the workplace. It is not uncommon for the
wrong contact to be connected to the mains – perhaps to the very machine you are working with!
A simple way of highlighting this and preventing unintentional connections is to tape over the
contact pin.
Note: A machine that has been dismantled must not be connected to the
mains supply. Functional tests must not, and do not need to be made on a
dismantled machine that is connected to the mains.
COMPONENTS, WORK TIPS
5
2

6
WATER/DUST UNIT
3
Function
Water supply or dust extraction
Drilling with the DM220 can be performed either with water cooling or dry
with dust extraction.
Construction
1. For connecting, you either use the water hose or the sleeve for dust
extractor. The casing is rotatable with the front handle. The casing is held in
place by a plastic ring in the casing’s outer ring that locks the unit.
2. Two O-ring seals between the casing and the gear housing.
3. The seal between the rotating spindle shaft and gear housing consists of a
cylinder which has radial seals at both ends. The cylinder is locked against
rotation to the gear housing.
4. The holes in the drilling spindle lead out to the drill attachment.
Service
The casing seals, consisting of two O-rings, can be replaced from the outside of
the machine. To replace the cylinder (3), that seals between the spindle shaft and
gear housing, you must rst remove the spindle shaft from the gear housing.
Replacing the seals
Remove the casing
1. The outer ring has a break slot for dismantling. Break
up the ring a little with a screwdriver.
2. Continue to break up the ring all around until it
releases its grip. Pull off the outer ring, the casing and
the inner ring.
Replace O-rings
3. Remove the O-rings and clean. Lubricate the new
O-rings and t these.
Replace the plastic retaining ring
Always replace with new plastic rings once it has
been dismantled. The outer ring has a break slot for
removing the plastic ring.
Press the new plastic ring in the outer ring. Lubricate
the inside of the plastic ring.
Fit the casing
Assemble the inner ring, casing, and t the outer ring
dog to the inner ring.
Fit the outer ring by tapping around the outside, then
insert this in to its locking groove in the gear housing.
4
3
2
1
1
3
4
2

Separation
Gear housing/motor housing
The handle halves must be removed so that the screws
that hold the electric motor to the gear housing can be
accessed.
1. Remove the two screws holding the inspection cover
for the carbon brushes. Remove the cover.
2. Remove the three screws connecting the handle
halves and the two screws that hold the handle half to
the motor.
3. Lift off the handle half.
4. Turn the machine and remove the two screws that
hold the other handle half.
7
DISMANTLING BASIC MODULES 4
1 2
3 4
1 2
Gear housing/electric motor
Virtually all service work requires the separation of the
gear housing from the electric motor. The process of
dismantling the machine in to its basic components is
described in this chapter.
Pull the connector for the power cables out of its
compartment. An earth wire runs from the gear hou-
sing, under the stator, to the connector.
1. Locate the yellow/green earth wire that runs under
the stator.
2. Remove the earth wire from the connector.

8
DISMANTLING BASIC MODULES
4
Gear housing/gear box cover
Remove the stand mount. It sits with a press t in the
gear housing and gear box cover.
Use a brass mandrel and angle this as shown in the
gure to the left. Knock with a small metal hammer
alternately on both sides so that the stand mount
gradually lifts equally on both sides.
Four screws connect the electric motor to the gear
housing.
1. Remove the two screws at the location of the
connector for the cables.
2. Remove the two screws on the opposite side, under
the position of the circuit board.
3. Remove the cover for the stand mount.
4. Pull out the carbon brushes and lock them with the
spring to the side of the carbon brush.
5. Lift off the electric motor housing. Note the earth
wire in the gear housing.
If you need to use a puller to press the bearing from
its seat, you must rst remove the magnetic sensor at
the centre of the shaft.
3
5
4
1-5-
4-8-
2-6-
3-7-
Lift off the air line for the fan. Store this in conjunction
with the rotor as it can easily be overlooked when re-as-
sembling.
Drain the oil
Remove the drain plug and drain the gearbox oil.
(Relling: Volume 0.25 litre. Oil quality: Mobil Lube
1 SHC 75W-90, Shell Spirax ASX 75W-90 or equivalent
quality.)
Type A
Four screws connect the gear housing to the gear box
cover, two on the inside of the fan and two on the out-
side next to the oil plug.
Note that the screws on the fan have O-rings that seal
the gear box oil.
Type B
Four screws on the gear housing connect it to the gear
box cover
Pull the gear box cover, together with the rotor, from
the gear housing. Remove the rotor from one side as
described in the “ROTOR” chapter.
M5 x 60 mm M5 x 50 mm
OIL
2
1
A

GEAR HOUSING – INTERMEDIATE SHAFT 5
9
Function
The gear housing contains a transmission that reduces the high speed of the
electric motor to a lower speed on the spindle shaft. The transmission is built
on two shafts, the intermediate shaft (A) and spindle shaft (B).
The electric motor powers the top gear wheel on the intermediate shaft.
This gear wheel has a slip clutch to the intermediate shaft to protect the
operator in the event of jamming.
The transmission has three gear selection positions that are controlled by
the knob (C). Change gear when the motor is idle.
Service work
The work procedure dictates that the complete intermediate shaft must always
be dismantled rst.
However, the spindle shaft with attendant components, is dismantled into
individual parts from the gear housing. Following dismantling of the compo-
nents, the actual spindle shaft can be removed from the gear housing.
Dismantling –
intermediate shaft
1. Position the puller under the
two upper gear wheels.
2. Prepare for dismantling as per
the illustration. Press the shaft
up using the puller.
Dismantling – intermediate
shaft
To dismantle you need a small standard
puller with long shanks, two spacers
(wooden blocks, at least 15 mm/.6 in.
high) and a bridge between them, e.g. a
rough metal object.
1. Position the puller under the two
upper gear wheels.
2. Prepare for dismantling as per the
illustration. Press the shaft up using the
puller.
B
A
C
The motor shaft drives the helical drive.
There is a slip clutch between the drive
and the intermediate shaft.
The helical drive has a slip
clutch on the intermediate shaft.
Slip clutch
Use special tool 510 22 11-01 to lock the
shaft.
Remove the nut.
Slip clutch
Remove the nut.
510 22 11-01
1
2

Torque: 16 Nm, 12 lbf∑ft
10
Spring washers
The spring washers provide the braking
force to the clutch when the nut is tted
and tightened with the correct torque.
To function properly it is vital that
the washers are installed correctly and
that they are intact.
Remove the spring washers
Lift up the three spring washers and at
washer under them.
Rem. For practical work, lift the gear
wheel up from the shaft and turn to
empty the washers.
Remove the friction washer
Remove the friction washer from the
gear wheel. Replace the washer if it is
damaged or has signicantly reduced
functionality.
Lift off the gear wheel
Check the condition of the gear wheel
and that the centre bushing is not loose
on the shaft.
The bushing is located with a light
press t in the gear wheel.
Remove the friction washer
Remove the friction washer from the
gear wheel. Replace the washer if it is
damaged or has signicantly reduced
functionality.
GEAR HOUSING – INTERMEDIATE SHAFT
5
Type A
Adjusting the slip clutch
Mount the intermediate shaft’s helical
drive wheel in a vice with soft bre jaws.
Start by screwing in the nut to the
mechanical stop position. Now unscrew
the nut 45°. The clutch must have a
slipping torque of at least 16 Nm. If the
value is not reached, the spring and
friction washers must be replaced.
If the slip clutch is higher than 16 Nm,
adjust the value to the correct level.
510 22 11-01
+
–
IMPORTANT
When reassembling the spring
washers and friction washer,
lubricate with gearbox oil.
This is important to ensure
the correct slipping torque
when adjusting the slip clutch.

GEAR HOUSING – INTERMEDIATE SHAFT 5
Type B
Adjusting the slip clutch
Mount the intermediate shaft’s helical
drive wheel in the service tool. Tighten
the service tool in a vice.
Start by tightening the nut to the mecha-
nical stop position. Check the torque
with a torque wrench and socket -article
number 5102211-01
The clutch must have a slipping torque
of at least 16 Nm. If the value is not
reached, the spring and friction washers
must be replaced.
If the torque exceeds 16Nm, gradually
unscrew the nut and check with the tor-
que wrench.
510 22 11-01
–
+
Torque: 16 Nm, 12 lbf ft
11

GEAR HOUSING – SPINDLE SHAFT
12
6
Removing the spindle shaft
Remove the circlip.
Lift off the gear wheel.
Remove the gear knob as follows: Loosen
the lock screw. Press the gear knob out of
the housing. Remove the gear selector.
IMPORTANT – thread locking
When retting the locking screw, thread
locker must be applied to the threads,
Loctite 243.
Lubricate the O-ring.
Lift off the gear wheel.
Spindle shaft
The spindle shaft is driven by the intermediate shaft which in turn is dri-
ven by the electric motor. The complete spindle shaft contains a number of
moving parts, including axially moving gear wheels for the gear function.
The transmission in this machine is rarely the cause of any problems.
Incorrect handling of the machine could, however, cause the actual shaft to
bend, or damage the tool bracket. In these cases, all units on the spindle shaft
must be removed to replace the actual shaft.
Service work
The complete intermediate shaft must always be removed rst.
All work on the spindle shaft must be performed inside the gear housing.
Only when the shaft is released from the components on this can the actual
spindle shaft be removed from the gear housing.
Note – images: Most images in this chapter are photographed with the
shaft removed for the sake of illustration.

13
GEAR HOUSING – SPINDLE SHAFT 6
The gear housing after removal of the
intermediate shaft and the spindle shaft
components.
Remove the wedge.
A small pair of lock ring pliers is needed
to remove the lock ring, manufacture:
Milbar/Imperial IR-15R or equivalent
Start by turning the lock ring to ensure
the opening is accessible by pliers in the
gear wheel.
Expand the lock ring using the pliers and
lift the ring up slightly. Lift the opposite
side of the ring with a hook. Lift the lock
ring off the shaft.
Milbar/Imperial
IR-15R
Lift off the gear wheel.

GEAR HOUSING – BEARING REPLACEMENT7
14
Bearings
The bottom bearings in the spindle shaft are press-tted in the gear housing
and on the shaft. The retaining rings on the shaft and in the gear housing
secure the bearing. The black seal cylinder has radial seals at both ends, on
the bearing and the tool holder. The cylinder is locked against rotation to the
machine body. Always replace the whole sealing cylinder, or the radial seals if
the spindle shaft is removed.
Important
Be careful not to scratch the shaft where the radial seal and needle bearing
come into contact.
Bearing replacement – spindle shaft
Remove the outer circlip
Remove the circlip using circlip pliers.
Press or pull out the spindle shaft
With the hydraulic press, the shaft is pressed out of the
gear housing together with the bearing. Never knock out
the spindle shaft!
The adjacent arrangement works well for pulling out
the spindle shaft with the bearing.
Support the gear housing with the vice. Tape a at
iron, such as a cold chisel, on the opposite side. Insert the
puller claw at the spindle shaft’s wrench attachment and
pull the shaft out with the puller.
Remove the inner circlip
Remove the ball bearing’s inner circlip.
! !
Remove the bearing
The bearing cannot be removed by pressing. Use bearing
puller 531 00 48-67 or equivalent. Push the seal cylinder
so that a gap occurs where the puller jaws are applied.
Pull the bearing out of the spindle shaft.
Replace the seal cylinder
Replace the seal cylinder when replacing bearings.
Lubricate the seals. Fit the cylinder to the shaft.
Reassembly
If possible cool the shaft in a cold store or with cooling
spray and heat the bearing to about 100°C before moun-
ting. The bearing can then be tted with a light pressing
force. A block of wood with a hole diameter equivalent to
the bearing’s inner ring works well as support and with-
out risk of damaging the surface under the radial seal. Fit
the inner circlip.
Fit the spindle shaft
Cool the ball bearing with cooling spray or put the shaft
in a cold store. Heat the bearing seat on the gear housing
(arrows) to about 100 °C. The spindle shaft can then
usually be tted in the gear housing with a minimal press
force.
Note the seal cylinder’s guide pin that is to be tted
into the groove in the gear housing.

15
GEAR HOUSING – BEARING REPLACEMENT 7
Tools
Dismantling
The following tools are required for removing the gear
housing’s bearing:
1. Internal bearing extractor to grip behind the bearings.
2. Use a counter stay device where there is a counterhold.
3. A slide hammer is an alternative to the counter stay
device if there is no counterhold available.
Assembly
Since replacement of these bearings rarely occurs, there is
no mounting device. Suitable mounting tools can be very
easily produced with screws at the appropriate lengths,
nuts, washers and tape. Tape the threads ensuring the
bearings are held in place.
1. Turn the needle bearings with the text side facing the
washer. Press or knock down the bearings in place in the
gear box cover.
2. It is important that the washers have a large enough
diameter to support the ball bearing’s outer ring when
assembling. Press or knock down the bearing in place in
the gear housing.
Bearing replacement
Dismantling needle bearings
The gear box cover’s two needle bearings are removed as
per the method shown in the illustration. Apply the
counter stay either under the bearing or against the
bottom edge of the bearing’s needles.
Fitting needle bearings
Fit the needle bearings with the text side upwards. The
opposite side is rounded in order to facilitate assembly.
Press the bearing down so that it is level with the top
edge of the bearing housing.
The assembly of the needle bearings in the gear box
cover is made easy with a press or with a vice.
Dismantling ball bearings
The gear housing’s bearings for the intermediate shaft are
removed with the same expander tool used for the needle
bearings.
There is no level support surface for the counter stay
device in the gear housing. The adjacent arrangement
gives the puller’s at support surface. Alternatively you
can use a slide hammer.
Fitting ball bearings
The bearing is tted in the easiest way using the proprie-
tary tool above in Figure 2.
Heating around the bearing seat reduces the press
force. Knock in the bearing with a plastic hammer on the
screw head.
1 2
1
2
3

CARBON BRUSHES
Replacing the carbon
brushes
1. Remove the screws.
2. Lift off the guard.
3. Loosen the screw.
4. Pull out the cable lug
3. Loosen the screw and screw it out one
turn. Let the screw remain in place.
4. Pull out the cable lug from the screw.
5. Lift the spring and pull out
the carbon brush.
6. Fit a new carbon brush.
5. Lift the spring with an angular hook
and pull out the carbon brush.
6. Fit a new carbon brush. The carbon
brush’s cable lug must be furthest in.
Turn the carbon brush so that the cable
runs over the carbon brush.
Replacing the carbon
brushes
1. Remove the inspection cover’s two
screws.
2. Lift off the guard.
8
16
Replacing the carbon brushes
The two carbon brushes transfer electric current to the motor’s rotor. A cable
from the stator is connected to the screw in the holder. The carbon brush’s
line is connected to the same screw.
The carbon brushes are wear parts that must be checked regularly. Every
week if the machine is used on a daily basis.
You should replace the carbon brushes when around half is left. You can
easily measure this using a slide gauge without removing the brushes. Replace
the carbon brushes when the distance from the brush holder to the top level
of the brush exceeds 10 mm/.4 in.
Worn carbon brushes – checking
The importance of replacing the brushes in good time is demonstrated by the
adjoining illustrations.
The illustrations to the left show a brush that is worn but still operable.
Both the brush and the collector have minor scratches in the direction of rota-
tion which is entirely normal.
The illustrations to the right show the results when the brush is so worn
that the spring, which presses the collector down, has reached its end position
and no longer gives the brush the correct pressure to the collector. Sparking
occurs which damages both brushes and, even worse, the collector in a very
short time.
Pay careful attention to sparking near the collector
If the brushes are not worn, sparking could be due to the brushes being
unable to move in their holders as a result of, for example, dirt.
12
3 4
5 6
Max 10 mm
Carbon brush holder
Remove the carbon brushes.
Remove the screws at the electro-
nic box allowing the brush hol-
ders to be moved out.
Carbon brush holder
The rotor does not need to be disassemb-
led to replace the carbon brush holder.
Remove the carbon brushes. Remove
the screws that hold both the electronics
box and the brush holders in place.
Note when re-assembling that the
carbon ring lug should be closest to the
holder and the cable to the top of the
stator.

17
WIRING DIAGRAM – CABLING, 110 V
9
TEST
RESET
WARNING
WHITE
GREEN
BLUE
Circuit breaker
5
4
32a
2
BLACK
BROWN
WHITE
BLUE
GREEN/YELLOW
Gear housing GREEN/YELLOW
Earth fault breaker
BLACK
GREY
GREY
Circuit
board
Stator
Stator
Rotor
GREY
GREY
BLACK
Mains cable/terminal block
Terminal block
a Earth wire. Yellow/green wire.
b Connect to the circuit breaker, pos. 2a according to
page 18. Black cable.
c From a xed connection in the circuit board. Black
cable.
Avoid cable damage
When reassembling, it is important that the cables are
tted in the handle with care to ensure the cables are not
exposed.
110 V
a
b
c
Wiring in the handle

18
WIRING DIAGRAM – CABLING, 230 V
9
Mains cable/terminal block
Terminal block
a Earth wire. Yellow/green wire. Connects to earth point
in the gear housing.
b Connects to the circuit breaker, pos 2a according to
wiring diagram and image on page. 18. Black cable.
c From a xed connection in the circuit board. Black cable.
Capacitor – 230 V
If the mains fuse blows, this may be due to a short-circuited
capacitor. Remove the capacitor’s black cables from the
terminal block and measure the resistance.
Avoid cable damage
When reassembling, it is important that the cables are
tted in the handle with care to ensure the cables are not
exposed to crushing damage.
230 V
a
b
c
TEST
RESET
WARNING
=L1
GREEN/YELLOW
GREEN/YELLOW
BROWN
BLUE
GREEN/YELLOW
BLACK
BLACK
WHITE
WHITE
BLACK
BLACK
SILVER
BLACK
Capacitor
BLACK
Earth fault breaker
Circuit
board
WHITE
GREEN
BLUE
5
4
32a
2
Circuit breaker
GREY
GREY
Stator
Stator
Rotor
GREY
GREY
Gear housing
Wiring in the handle

19
CIRCUIT BOARD – CABLING
10
Circuit board
The circuit board is divided into two interconnected units that cannot be
shared.
The unit on the right has two functions. It senses the motor’s speed and
also has a function that acts as an electronic spirit level “Level guiding sys-
tem”.
All information from the unit is passed on to the circuit board, to the left
in the illustration.
The circuit board gives the machine the following functions:
Softstart™ is an electronic current limiter for smoother starting.
SmartStart®gives reduced speed when the circuit breaker is pressed in
halfway.
Elgard™ is an electronic overload protection device.
Function test
The functions of the circuit board require special expertise and special equip-
ment in order to be tested. The exclusion method must apply instead. First
test that the stator, rotor, cables, contacts, connectors, etc. are not defective.
Only replace the circuit board after this check.
Level guiding system
The circuit board also contains the reading unit for the electronic spirit level
that indicates the machine’s angle with the help of ve LEDs.
The spirit level functions are controlled from two circuit breakers. A at
cable connects the circuit breakers with the circuit board.
Turn the sensor unit correctly
The unit above the rotor shaft may be turned incorrectly, whereupon the cable
length to the circuit board will be too long and the spirit level function will be
incorrect. Place the unit as shown in the illustration. The cable must run out to
the side of the machine and on down to the circuit board.
Flat cable
The connector to the at cable has a locking function. To remove the at
cable, rst press the connector to the left, according to the illustration on the
right, after which the at cable is removed.
Assemble in reverse order.

20
CIRCUIT BOARD – CABLING
10
Cable connections
Connections to the circuit breaker markings:
2. Stator winding, grey.
2a. From the xed connection in the circuit board, black. Position Aas
shown in the illustration above.
2a. From the terminal block, black. Position baccording to pages 15 and 16.
Note that 2a has a common connection point for two at-pin connectors.
5. White
4. Green
3. Blue
Circuit breaker – functional test
The circuit breaker has two functions: It cuts/closes the current to the stator
and also contains the function for Smartstart.
Circuit breaker
With Ohm measurement, the circuit breaker’s short circuiting is easily check-
ed when it is pressed in. Remove the stator cable and x a test pin in place.
Connect the other test pin to the double connection.
Smartstart™
If the half and full-time function is not working this may be due to this part
of the circuit breaker being defective.
To check the Smartstart function, the resistance between the contact pins
3 and 4 on the circuit breaker is measured. A non-activated circuit breaker
provides an approximate value of 220 kOhm. A fully pressed circuit breaker
must provide a value of 0 Ohm.
Mains cable
If the mains supply does not reach the machine, a broken cable or faulty earth
fault breaker is the possible cause.
Replace with a complete cord set
Do not remove the mains cords from the earth fault breaker, but replace with
a new complete cord set.
Radio interference suppression
Interference suppression protection is only available for the 230 V model.
The components are a coil with iron core and a capacitor.
5 4 32 2a
Circuit board wiring
A Black cable with a small at pin connector. Connects to the circuit breaker
at position 2a according to the wiring diagram and illustration below.
B Black, long cable that runs through the handle. Connects to the terminal at
position caccording to pages 15 and 16.
C Three cables, white green and blue. Connects to the circuit breaker at posi-
tion 5, 4and 3, according to the wiring diagram and illustration below.
D Flat pin connector for stator cable.
A
D
B
C