Plankton Electronics THE JELLYFISH User manual

THE JELLYFISH
ASSEMBLY TUTORIAL
30/10/2014
PLANKTON ELECTRONICS

Thank you for purchasing the Jellyfish. In this step by step tutorial we will show you how to
assemble the machine.
Before start: Ensure that you work in a well ventilated area and that you have all the necessary
tools (soldering iron, solder, cutting pliers, etc.). If you have very little or no soldering experience
make a search on the www. There are many tutorials on how to solder.
We will start soldering the resistors. Take the BOM (Bill Of Materials) document and start with the
1K resistor. Put it in place, turn the PCB, solder and cut. Continue with the 1K2 resistors and so. Go
by groups, don't solder all the resistors at a time. If you don't know how to identify the different
resistors here you have a tip.
Do NOT solder R23, R29, R44 and R46. These are filter resistors. You will solder 4 trimmers here
later. Only if you know what are you doing solder the resistors that you consider. Check the
schematic for reference.

Time to solder the sockets now. Notice that the sockets for the PT2399 are 16 pin type, and the
ones for CD40106 and TL074 are 14 pin type. Put the 4 sockets in place and turn the PCB trying to
maintain the sockets in place. Using a plastic or a wood sheet will help. Solder the 4 sockets.
We will follow with the diode and the film & ceramic caps. Start with the film capacitors. Like with
the resistors follow the BOM and solder by groups. Start with the 10nf C9, C10, C49, C50, C51, C52,
C53. Solder it and continue with the next ones.

Now solder the 6 transistors and the voltage regulator. Transistors are temperature sensitive and
too much heating time can destroy it. The use of pliers here pressing gently to body of the
transistor is a good way to dissipate the heat of the solder. You will need an extra hand (or tool).
Now solder de electrolitic capacitors to the rear part of the PCB. This capacitors are polarized. The
long leg of the capacitor should go to the "+" symbol of the PCB.

You can solder the trimmers now. Do it on the rear side. This way you can calibrate the machine
without disassembly the case every time. You need to cut a leg for 10K trimmers (R23, R29, R44 &
R46).

Solder the 14 potentiometers. Push carefully until the base of the potentiometer is touching the
PCB. It is very important for all the pots to be straight and perpendicular to the board. If not you
might find some trouble later.
It is a good idea to all the potentiometers first, and then solder it.
Time for the installing the switches now. First of all take the nuts of the SDPTs and DPDTs off and
leave the base one. Take ALL the 3PDT nuts off. This way all the switches will share the same
height.

Now put all the switches in place but don't solder it yet. Insert the acrylic front panel letting the
potentiometers and switches pass through the holes. Screw all the switches and solder it. Note
that the pots will not use the nuts.
The last components that we solder to the PCB are the leds. Insert the leds through the holes. The
leds are polarized. The short leg goes where the circle is cutted on the footprint. Insert the panel
again and insert the leds through its own hole. Solder it now.

Now we will start with the wiring part. Take the rear panel and screw all the connectors to it. Let it
aside.
Take now the wire and solder it to the the PCB. If you have not purchased a kit you will need
shielded cable with to wires plus ground. Follow the schematic to solder the cable. The CV
connections will need the 2 wires plus the ground. The rest of the connectors will need only one
wire and the ground, so you can cut the black one.
There is an errata on the silkscreen. At the CV2 port "sw" and "tip" pads are swaped.

First cut the wire and solder it to the PCB. Now mount the upper, left, right and front panels.
Solder the connectors and mount the rear panel.

Turn now the Jellyfish, insert the knobs and test it. If everything is working you can proceed to the
calibration.
Congratulations!