Simplicity American Denim SA1100 User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
& REFERENCE GUIDE
Sewing Machine Model SA1100
Simplicity Sewing Machine Education Helpline: 636-651-0030

When using the sewing machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including
the following:
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING MACHINE
DANGER - To reduce risk of electric shock:
1. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and
before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before changing the light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the
sewing machine is used by or near children.
2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only
attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working
properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing
machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, and
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep the ventilation
openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust
and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any openings.
6. Do not use this machine outdoors.
7. Do not operate this machine where aerosol spray products are being used or where oxygen
is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off position then remove the plug from the outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use a bent needle.
13. Do not pull or push the fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Unplug the sewing machine when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as
threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin, or changing the presser foot.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers,
lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this
instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This sewing machine is intended for household use.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
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WELCOME TO THE CREATIVE WORLD OF SEWING WITH SIMPLICITY!
Congratulations on being the owner of a new Simplicity sewing machine. Whether you’re
new to sewing, a lifelong sewer, or returning to sewing, we at Simplicity Sewing
Machines are dedicated to providing you with simply the BEST features, quality, and cus-
tomer service to ensure you many pleasurable hours of sewing satisfaction and success.
Before starting a sewing project, here are a few recommendations to help you become
acquainted with your new machine:
• Read through the instruction book and become familiar with the sewing
terms.
• Review the machine, using the instruction book as a guide, to identify each
part and function of the machine.
• Practice sewing on a variety of fabric scraps using various stitches and stitch
settings.
• Make a stitch sampler of your favorite techniques in the instruction book,
marking your machine setting preferences for future reference.
• • •
Thank you for choosing a Simplicity sewing machine.
If you have any questions or comments, give us a call – we’ll be glad to help you!
• • •
Simplicity Sewing Machine Education Department
636-651-0030
FORWARD

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PRINCIPAL PARTS............................................................4-5
ACCESSORIES .....................................................................6
PREPARATION FOR SEWING .............................................7
ACCESSORY STORAGE .......................................................7
CHANGING PRESSER FEET.................................................7
Snap-on feet.................................................................7
Screw-on feet...............................................................7
FREE-ARM SEWING ............................................................8
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR ............................8
DROP FEED ........................................................................8
LEVELING BAR....................................................................8
STITCH SELECTION ............................................................9
Pattern selector dial......................................................9
Stitch width dial...........................................................9
Stitch length dial ..........................................................9
Needle plate seam guides ............................................9
Reverse sewing lever....................................................9
STITCH SELECTION TABLE ...............................................10
TENSION ADJUSTMENTS .................................................10
Upper thread tension dial ..........................................10
Lower thread tension .................................................10
WINDING THE BOBBIN ...................................................11
LOWER THREADING ........................................................12
Removing the bobbin.................................................12
Inserting new bobbin .................................................12
Placing bobbin case in shuttle ...................................12
UPPER THREADING..........................................................13
Raising the bobbin thread ..........................................13
SEWING TIPS ....................................................................14
BEGINNING TO SEW........................................................14
NEEDLE, THREAD & FABRIC GUIDE ................................15
STITCH “A” STRAIGHT STITCH ........................................16
Seaming.....................................................................16
Basting.......................................................................16
Topstitching and edgestitching ...................................16
Gathering...................................................................17
Zipper insertion .........................................................17
Piping insertion..........................................................17
STITCH “A” ZIGZAG .........................................................18
Overedging ................................................................18
Bartacking..................................................................18
Satin stitch for appliqué .............................................18
Attaching buttons.......................................................19
Seaming knits.............................................................19
STITCH “B” BLINDHEM....................................................20
Blindhemming ...........................................................20
STITCH “C” THREE-STEP ZIGZAG ....................................20
Overcasting................................................................20
Mending ....................................................................20
Attaching flat elastic...................................................21
STITCH “D” SHELL STITCH ..............................................21
Seaming nylon tricot ..................................................21
Decorative picot hem.................................................21
STITCH “E” STRETCH STRAIGHT STITCH ........................22
Seaming bias curves...................................................22
Triple topstitching ......................................................22
Seaming double knits.................................................22
STITCH “E” RICK RACK.....................................................23
Overcasting heavy fabrics ..........................................23
Decorative rick rack...................................................23
STITCH “F” STRETCH OVERCAST.....................................23
Encasing elastic and ribbon .......................................23
Decorative flat fell seams ...........................................23
STITCH “G” HONEYCOMB ..............................................24
Decorative ribbon attaching.......................................24
Mock smocking..........................................................24
STITCH “H” SLANT OVERCAST........................................24
Attaching rib knit trim................................................24
BUTTONHOLE STITCH.....................................................25
FREE-MOTION MONOGRAMMING.................................26
FREE-MOTION QUILTING ................................................26
DARNING .........................................................................26
SEAMING SHEER FABRICS................................................27
PERFECT PATCHWORK PIECING......................................27
SEWING SPECIALTY SYNTHETIC FABRICS .......................27
SEWING WITH TWO THREADS........................................27
SEWING OVER DENSE SEAMS .........................................27
NEEDLES ...........................................................................28
CLEANING FEED TEETH AND SHUTTLE AREA.................28
CHANGING THE LIGHT BULB.........................................28
OILING .............................................................................28
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................................29-30
TABLE OF CONTENTS
KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP
CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
SEWING
BUILT-IN STITCHES
FREE-MOTION SEWING
SPECIALTY SEWING TECHNIQUES
CARE AND MAINTENANCE

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KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
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FRONT VIEW
BACK VIEW

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FRONT VIEW
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1FACE COVER
Opens to provide access to the light bulb and the
presser foot pressure regulator.
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2BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISC
Used when threading machine for bobbin winding.
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3THREAD TENSION DIAL
Controls the upper thread for proper stitch formation.
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4REVERSE LEVER
Press this lever down and hold in place to sew in
reverse.
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5STITCH WIDTH DIAL
Sets the width of a stitch.
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6STITCH SELECTOR DIAL
Turn the dial in either direction to select a stitch.
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7BOBBIN WINDER SPINDLE
Winds thread on a bobbin for lower threading.
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8HAND WHEEL
Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the
needle up and down.
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9STITCH LENGTH DIAL
Sets the length of the stitch.
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10 FREE-ARM COVER/ACCESSORY STORAGE
Provides a flat surface for most sewing. Remove
it to convert to free-arm sewing.
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11 FEED TEETH (FEED DOGS)
The metal teeth under the needle plate that push
or feed the fabric through the machine.
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12 PRESSER FOOT
Holds the fabric firmly against the feed teeth for
proper feeding.
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13 PRESSER FOOT HOLDER
Holds the snap-on presser foot in sewing position.
The presser foot holder is removed when using
screw-on feet.
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14 NEEDLE PLATE
Supports the fabric while sewing. Has seam guide
markings on right side.
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15 PRESSER FOOT THUMB SCREW
Secures the presser foot or presser foot holder to
the presser foot bar.
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16 NEEDLE CLAMP SCREW
Loosen to remove a needle; tighten to secure a
needle in position.
BACK VIEW
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17 CARRY HANDLE
Simply lift to carry the Simplicity sewing
machine from one place to another.
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18 PRESSER FOOT LEVER
Lift to raise the presser foot and release the thread
tension; lower to lower the presser foot and engage
the thread tension.
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19 POWER CORD RECEPTACLE
Connect the three-prong power plug here.
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20 MAIN SWITCH
Turns the main power and built-in sewing light
on or off.
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21 RETRACTABLE SPOOL PINS
Raise the spool pins to hold the spools of thread.
KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE

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1ALL-PURPOSE FOOT - snap-on
Use for most straight and zigzag seams. The needle
opening is rectangular to accommodate the swing of the
needle in a zigzag stitch.
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2BLIND HEM FOOT - snap-on
Features an adjustable guide for positioning and evenly
stitching blind hems, topstitching, or edgestitching.
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3BUTTONHOLE FOOT - snap-on
Use for sewing made-to-measure buttonholes.
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4BUTTON ATTACHING FOOT - snap-on
Holds flat buttons secure for machine stitching in place.
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5ROLLER FOOT - screw-on
The textured rollers aid in feeding top and bottom fabric
layers evenly.
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61/4” STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT - snap-on
Use to sew lightweight fabrics or for patchwork piecing.
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7OPEN TOE SATIN STITCH FOOT - snap-on
Satin stitching glides comfortably under the sole of this
foot and the open toe provides clear visibility of stitches.
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8ZIPPER FOOT - screw-on
Adjusts to stitch close to either side of the zipper without
catching the zipper coil.
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9PLASTIC BOBBINS (10)
Hold lower thread. These are “Class 15” bobbins.
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10 SEAM RIPPER
Use to remove stitching and to open buttonholes.
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11 SCREWDRIVER
Use to loosen and tighten the presser foot thumb screw,
needle clamp screw, and needleplate screw.
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12 FELT CUSHIONS (2)
Fit on the spool pin beneath the thread spool, stabilizing
the spool and preventing the thread from wrapping
around the spool pin.
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13 NEEDLES (5)
The most commonly used “universal” needles, size #11 and
#14, are included. A size #16 heavy duty needle is also
included for sewing denim and other dense fabrics. This
machine uses 15x1 household sewing machine needles.
KNOW YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
ACCESSORIES
The SIMPLICITY sewing machine comes
with the presser feet and accessories you
will need, conveniently stored in the free
arm cover. This low shank machine uses
snap-on or screw-on presser feet.
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The Simplicity sewing machine has many conversion options for a multitude of sewing
applications.
SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP
The power cord and foot control are one unit.
Insert the three-prong plug into the machine [Fig. 1].
Insert the power supply plug into a wall outlet. Turn the
power switch to “on” [Fig.1].
Raise the left retractable thread spool pin for most sewing
[Fig. 2]. Raise both the left and right retractable thread
spool pins for twin needle or dual thread sewing.
Accessories and presser feet are conveniently stored in
the free-arm cover.
Grasp the free-arm cover with your left hand and gently
pull up and toward you to open the storage tray [Fig.3].
Your Simplicity sewing machine comes with both snap-
on and screw-on presser feet. They're easy to change
and each foot helps make a specific sewing task easier.
Removing and Attaching Snap-on Presser Feet
1. Turn the handwheel toward you [Fig. 4] to bring the
needle to its highest position.
2. Raise the presser foot lever [Fig. 5].
3. Release the foot by pushing the presser foot release
lever located behind the presser foot holder [Fig. 6].
4. Place the desired foot on the needle plate, aligning
the metal bar on the presser foot with the groove of
the presser foot holder [Fig. 7].
5.
Lower the presser foot lever to snap the foot in place.
Removing and Attaching Screw-on Presser Feet
1. Loosen the thumb screw located on the left side of the
presser foot on the presser foot bar [Fig. 8]. You may
need to use the screwdriver. It is not necessary to
remove the screw all the way.
3. Remove the presser foot holder and foot [Fig. 9].
4. Attach the desired screw-on presser foot onto the
presser bar.
5. Tighten the thumb screw with the screwdriver to hold
the presser foot securely in place [Fig. 10].
Note: After attaching a presser foot, select the desired
stitch and turn the hand-wheel toward you several times to
make sure the needle clears the opening in the foot. Some
presser feet require a straight or narrow width stitch only.
PREPARATION FOR SEWING
ACCESSORY STORAGE
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 2
on/off
Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 8

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SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE SET-UP OPTIONS
Free arm sewing makes it easy to sew hard to reach
areas such as sleeves, pant legs, and necklines.
To convert to free arm sewing, grasp the left end of the
free-arm cover and pull it out to the left to remove [Fig. 1].
Slip the sleeve or pant leg on the free arm as shown and
sew [Fig. 2].
The pressure on the presser foot can be adjusted to accom-
modate sewing on various weights of fabric to ensure
proper fabric feeding and to eliminate skipped stitches.
1. Open the face cover [Fig. 3].
2. Move the lever until the desired pressure number is
displayed in the opening of the lever [Fig. 4]. Standard
setting is 2 for most sewing. To increase pressure
move to a higher number. To decrease pressure
move to a lower number.
Set lever at 1 for heavyweight fabrics.
Set lever at 2 for mediumweight fabrics.
Set lever at 3 for lightweight fabrics.
Set the lever at 0 for darning and free-motion sewing.
The drop feed mechanism lowers the feed teeth below the
needleplate for darning, free-motion embroidery, mono-
gramming and free-motion quilting. This eliminates the
need to make stitch length adjustments. When the feed
teeth are lowered, the fabric is guided by hand, allowing
free movement of the fabric in any direction.
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to
its highest position.
2. Open the face cover and set the presser foot pressure
regulator to 0.
3.
Remove the free arm cover and open the front bobbin
cover [Fig. 5].
4. Push down on the drop feed lever and the feed teeth
will drop below the needle plate [Fig. 6].
5. Push the lever up to return to normal sewing.
If the machine is not sitting on a level surface turn the
leveling screw to stabilize the machine.
1. Remove the free arm to access the screw under the
leveling bar [Fig. 7].
2. Turn the screw to the right to lower the machine.
Turn the screw to the left to elevate the machine.
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE REGULATOR
DROP FEED
LEVELING BAR
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 2

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STITCH SELECTOR DIAL [Fig. 1]
To select a stitch, turn the stitch selector dial to align the
stitch desired with the indicator dot. The stitches are
color-coded to correspond with the stitch length dial.
Select a stitch, then set the stitch length within the color
range. These color ranges are guidelines and may vary
for some sewing techniques.
STITCH WIDTH DIAL [Fig. 2]
The stitch width dial is numbered 0 - 5, representing
the various stitch widths in millimeters. The higher the
number, the wider the stitch. The yellow color-coding
between 3 and 5 represent the width range for making
buttonholes.
To select a stitch width turn the dial until the desired
width setting is aligned with the indicator dot.
STITCH LENGTH DIAL [Fig. 3]
The stitch length dial is numbered 0 - 4 representing the
various stitch lengths in millimeters. The higher the
number, the longer the stitch.
To select a stitch length turn the dial until the desired
length setting is aligned with the indicator dot.
When set at 0 the fabric will not feed under the foot.
NEEDLE PLATE SEAM GUIDES [Fig. 4]
The five seam guide markings on the right side of the
needle plate are set at 1/8” intervals. The first mark is
1/2" from the needle; the second, 5/8” and so on. Align
the fabric edge at a seam guide marking for a consistent
seam width. The standard seam allowance width is 5/8”.
REVERSE SEWING LEVER [Fig. 5]
Use the reverse sewing lever to secure the beginning
and ends of seams.
With the foot control depressed, push and hold the
reverse lever down to sew in reverse. Release the lever
to return to forward sewing.
STITCH SELECTION
Each built-in stitch can be customized for specific sewing needs by making stitch length and
stitch width adjustments. The machine is color-coded for easy stitch length and width selection.
SIMPLICITY CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
Fig. 1
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
1
⁄2”5⁄8”3
⁄4”7
⁄8”1”

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SIMPLICITY CUSTOM STITCH SELECTION
The upper thread tension dial controls the amount of needle
thread delivered to the bobbin case. Most thread tension
adjustments should be made using the upper thread
tension dial. In some cases, the lower thread tension on
the bobbin case may need to be adjusted for specialty
sewing techniques.
UPPER THREAD TENSION
The numbers 0-9 on the dial represent upper thread
tension settings. The higher the number, the stronger the
upper tension. Tension settings between 3-5 are most
commonly used [Fig. 1]. In a balanced stitch, needle
thread and bobbin thread interlock in the center of the
two fabric layers [Fig. 2]. If needed, adjust an unbalanced
stitch by turning the dial until the new setting is aligned
with the indicator line on the machine [Fig. 1].
If the fabric gathers or the threads break, the upper thread
tension is too tight [Fig. 3]. Loosen the tension by moving
the dial to a lower number.
If loops form on the under side of the seam then the
upper tension is too loose [Fig. 4]. Tighten the upper
tension by turning the dial to a higher number.
LOWER THREAD TENSION
The lower thread tension can be adjusted by turning the
screw on the bobbin case slightly to the right (clockwise)
to increase the tension [Fig. 5]. Turn the tension slightly to
the left (counterclockwise) to decrease the tension [Fig. 6].
TENSION ADJUSTMENTS
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Increase tension Decrease tension
Fig. 2
STITCH PATTERN STITCH STITCH PRESSER DROP
WIDTH LENGTH FOOT FEED
A Straight 0 1-4 All feet
A Zigzag 1-5 1-4 All-purpose
B Blindhem 3-5 4 Blind hem
C 3-step zigzag 3-5 3 All-purpose
D Shell 3-5 1-3 All-purpose
E Stretch straight 0 4 All-purpose
E Rick rack 2-5 4 All-purpose
F Stretch overcast 3-5 4 All-purpose
G Honeycomb 3-5 4 All-purpose
H Slant overcast 3-5 4 All-purpose
Buttonhole 4-5 .5-1 Buttonhole
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2
3
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Upper thread too tight Upper thread too loose

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For best sewing results, use a top quality, long staple, polyester or poly/cotton thread for all-purpose
sewing. Skipped stitches, broken threads, and poor stitch quality are often a result of using old or inferior
thread. Use the same type of thread for both upper and lower threading for a consistent stitch quality.
THREADING YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
1. To release the clutch for bobbin winding, pull out the
handwheel until it clicks [Fig. 1].
2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin and bring
the thread around the bobbin winding tension disc as
shown [Fig. 2].
3. Place the thread end through a small hole in the bobbin
from the inside to the outside [Fig. 3].
4. Place the bobbin on the bobbinwinder spindle
matching the small groove on the bobbin with the
spring on the spindle [Fig. 4]. Push the spindle to
the right [Fig. 5].
5. Hold the end of the thread [Fig. 6] and depress the
foot control [Fig. 7]. When the thread has wound on
the bobbin several times, stop the machine and clip
the thread end close to the hole in the bobbin [Fig. 8].
Depress the foot control again to continue winding the
bobbin.
6. When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine.
Push the bobbinwinder spindle to the left, clip the
thread and remove the bobbin [Fig. 9].
7. Reengage the clutch by pushing the handwheel until
it clicks into place [Fig. 10].
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 2
Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 8

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THREADING YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
Removing the bobbin from the bobbin case:
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to
its highest position.
2. Remove the free-arm cover and open the bobbin
cover [Fig. 1].
3. Open the hinged latch of the bobbin case and pull
the bobbin case out of the machine [Fig. 2].
4. Release the latch to remove the bobbin [Fig. 3].
Inserting a new bobbin:
1. Hold the bobbin case in your left hand. Hold the filled
bobbin in your right hand [Fig. 4]. Unwind about six
inches of thread, making certain the thread unwinds
over the top of the bobbin as illustrated. Place the
bobbin in the bobbin case.
2. With the bobbin in the bobbin case, pull the thread
into the slot on the edge of the bobbin case [Fig. 5].
3. Pull the thread under the tension spring and into the
thread outlet [Fig. 6]. Leave about six inches of
thread extending from the bobbin case.
Note: It’s important to be sure the bobbin is turning
CLOCKWISE [Fig. 7] as you pull thread from the bobbin
case. If it is turning counterclockwise, remove the bobbin
from the case, turn the bobbin over, place it back into the
case, and rethread the bobbin case.
Placing the bobbin case into the shuttle:
1. Open the latch of the bobbin case and hold it with the
long finger pointing upward [Fig. 8]. Place the bobbin
case over the pin of the shuttle aligning the long finger
with the notch at the top of the shuttle [Fig. 9].
2. Release the latch and push the bobbin case firmly
into place [Fig. 10]. Close the bobbin cover.
Note: Be sure the bobbin thread (about six inches) falls
loose from the bobbin case and is not caught or tangled
in any way.
LOWER THREADING
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 2
Fig. 9 Fig. 10
Fig. 8
CLOCKWISE

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THREADING YOUR SIMPLICITY SEWING MACHINE
1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the take-up
lever to its highest position [Fig. 1].
2. Raise the presser foot to release the thread tension
[Fig. 2].
3. Place felt cushion on spool pin. Place a spool of
thread on the spool pin with the thread coming from
the back of the spool [Fig. 3].
4. Snap the thread into the first thread guide at the top
of the machine [Fig. 4].
5. Bring the thread down between the tension discs [Fig. 5].
6. Bring the thread down the right slot of the threading
path, then across to and up the left slot [Fig. 6].
7. Bring the thread through the take-up lever from right
to left [Fig. 7], making sure the thread falls into the
take-up lever slot [Fig. 8].
8. Bring the thread back down the left slot of the
threading path [Fig. 9] and into the thread guide
above the needle [Fig. 10].
9. Thread the needle eye from front to back [Fig. 11].
(Clip the thread end with sharp scissors for easier
needle threading.)
Raising the bobbin thread
1. Make sure the presser foot lever is raised.
2. Hold the end of the needle thread with your left
hand. Turn the hand wheel toward you with your
right hand until the needle goes down once and
comes back up, stopping when the needle is at its
highest position.
3. Gently pull up on the needle thread [Fig. 12]. The
bobbin thread, looped around the needle thread, will
be drawn up through the needle hole.
4. Pull about six inches of both the upper and lower
threads toward the back of the machine, placing
them under the presser foot [Fig. 13].
UPPER THREADING
Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fig. 7
Fig. 9
Fig. 1
Fig. 12 Fig. 13
Fig. 11
Fig. 8
Fig. 10
Threading Diagram Fig. 2 Fig. 3

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• Always begin sewing with the needle in the highest
position. Always place the needle in the highest position
at the end of a seam before removing the fabric from the
machine.
• Always turn the handwheel toward you, not away
from you. Never “rock” the handwheel.
• Be sure to lower the presser foot before sewing to
engage the tension discs for perfect stitch balance. This
is an easy step to miss when sewing extra thick fabrics.
• Gently guide the fabric as you sew; never push or
pull the fabric under the needle.
• Don't sew over pins. Simply remove the pins as they
approach the needle. Sewing over pins can damage
your machine, nick the needle or cause personal injury.
• Use the proper needle/thread/fabric combination.
See chart on page 15.
1. Select a stitch. Make the appropriate stitch width
and length adjustments.
2. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the needle
to its highest position.
3. Raise the presser foot and pull about six inches of
thread to the back of the machine and under the
presser foot.
4. Place the fabric under the presser foot aligning the
cut edge of the fabric with the seam guide marking
on the needle plate. Position the fabric so the needle
is about 3/8” from the beginning fabric edge [Fig. 1].
5. Lower the presser foot and depress the foot controller to
begin sewing. The sewing speed is determined by the
amount of pressure you apply to the foot controller.
6. To secure the beginning of a seam, take 3-4 stitches
forward, then push down and hold the reverse lever
to take 3-4 stitches in reverse.
7. Release the lever and continue sewing forward at a
consistent speed while guiding the fabric along the
seam guide marking.
8. At the end of the seam, press and hold the reverse
lever to take 3-4 backstitches to secure the seam end.
9. Before removing the fabric raise the needle to the
highest position [Fig. 2].
Several synchronized parts of the sewing machine interact to form a stitch. The needle moves up
and down as the shuttle spins in perfect time so that the bobbin thread interlocks with the needle
thread through the layers of fabric. To maintain this perfectly tuned timing, here are a few sewing
tips you'll want to follow:
SEWING
SEWING TIPS
BEGINNING TO SEW
10. Raise the presser foot and gently pull the fabric to
the left, releasing at least six inches of thread
from needle and bobbin [Fig. 3].
11. Use the thread cutter on the back of the presser
foot bar to cut both threads close to the fabric
[Fig. 4].
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 1
Fig. 4

17
NEEDLE, THREAD & FABRIC GUIDE
Knit Fabrics NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Lightweight: Tricot Universal or Ballpoint 9/65, 10/70
Medium: Interlock, Lycra Universal or Ballpoint 11/75, 12/80, 14/90
Heavyweight: Double Knit, Velour Universal or Ballpoint 12/80, 14/90
Fake Furs, Napped Fabrics Universal or Ballpoint 14/90, 16/100
Woven Fabrics NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Sheer: Chiffon, Fine Lace, Tulle,
Georgette, Net, Organdy, Organza Universal 8/60, 9/65
Lightweight: Batiste, Chambray,
Voile, Crepe de Chine, Silk Jersey,
Handkerchief Linen, Sheer Crepe Universal 9/65, 10/70
Medium Lightweight: Challis,
Gingham, Taffeta, Percale,
Wool Crepe, Wool Jersey Universal 11/75
Medium Weight: Broadcloth, Chintz,
Velour, Corduroy, Crepe Backed
Satin, Faille, Flannel, Linen, Velvet,
Pique, Poplin, Satin, Shantung,
Velveteen Universal 12/80
Medium Heavyweight: Brocade,
Denim, Felt, Flannel, Fleece,
Gabardine, Quilted Fabrics,
Textured Linen, Tweed, Twill Universal 14/90
Heavyweight: Double-faced Wool,
Fake Fur, Heavy Coating,
Sail Cloth, Ticking Universal 16/100
Leather NEEDLE STYLE NEEDLE SIZE
Ultrasuede, Ultra Leather Stretch 11/75
Vinyl Leather Point 14/90
Vinyl with Knit Backing Leather Point 14/90
Light to Medium Weight Leather Leather Point 12/80
Heavy Leather Leather Point 16/100, 18/110
SEWING

18
SEAMING
Use for seaming two or more layers of fabric together.
Align the fabric edge with the seam guide marking on
the needle plate and begin sewing [Fig. 1]. Take a few
stitches in reverse (backstitch) to secure the seam.
Continue stitching forward at a consistent speed, while
guiding the fabric along the seam guide marking.
Backstitch at the end of the seam [Fig. 2].
Use a shorter stitch length (2-3) when patchwork piecing
[Fig. 3] or sewing sheer fabrics. Use a longer stitch (3.5-4)
when sewing heavy, thick, or napped fabrics such as
denim, polar fleece, or velvet [Fig. 4].
BASTING
Use a basting stitch to sew temporary seams. It is ideal
to use when you need to test fit a garment before
sewing the seams permanently.
Align the fabric edge with the seam guide markings and
sew at a consistent speed. Do not backstitch at the
beginning or end of the seam. After completing the
permanent seam, pull the basting stitch bobbin thread
to remove the basting stitches [Fig. 5].
TOPSTITCHING and EDGESTITCHING
Embellish a garment or special project with topstitching.
Use a contrasting thread color for extra dimension.
Attach the blind hem foot. To topstitch, place fabric so the
needle is 3/8” from the finished edge of the fabric. Adjust
the guide to butt up against the fabric edge [Fig. 6].
Lower the foot and sew, guiding the fabric edge along the
foot guide [Fig. 7].
To edgestitch, place the fabric so the needle is 1/8” from
the finished fabric edge. Adjust the guide, lower the
foot, and sew [Fig. 8].
BUILT-IN STITCHES
STITCH “A” - STRAIGHT STITCH
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 3 All-purpose
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 4 All-purpose
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 3 Blind hem
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
Fig. 2
Fig. 6
Fig. 8

19
BUILT-IN STITCHES
GATHERING
Create beautiful ruffles and flounces with the gathering
technique.
Sew a row of basting stitches 1/4” away from the fabric
edge. Sew a second row of basting
stitches 1/2” away from
the fabric edge [Fig. 1]. Do not backstitch.
Gently pull the bobbin thread from the underside of the
fabric [
Fig. 2]
.
Adjust gathers evenly by pushing the fabric
along the stitching.
ZIPPER INSERTION
The zipper foot is designed to allow you to sew close to
raised edges. Easily and accurately insert zippers and
covered cording or piping in seams using the zipper foot.
Remove the presser foot holder. Attach the zipper foot to
the presser foot bar. Raise the needle to the highest posi-
tion. The foot can be adjusted to the left or right side of
the needle by loosening the screw on the foot, sliding
the foot and re-tightening the screw [Fig. 3].
To sew the right side of the zipper, adjust the zipper foot so
it is on the right side of the needle and the needle clears
the notch on the left side of the zipper foot [Fig. 4].
To sew the left side of the zipper, adjust the zipper foot so
it is on the left side of the needle and the needle clears
notch on the right side of the zipper foot [Fig. 5].
Use the straight stitch ONLY with this foot.
PIPING INSERTION
Add decorative detail to home decorating projects and
create designer fashion looks by inserting covered cord
or purchased piping within seams.
Attach the zipper foot and adjust the sliding foot to the
right side of the needle. Baste the cord or piping to the
right side of one fabric piece along the seamline, using
the longest stitch length setting of 4 [Fig. 6].
Place the second layer of fabric with the first layer, right
sides together. Shorten the stitch length to 3 and stitch
the seam close to the piping [Fig. 7].
STITCH “A” - STRAIGHT STITCH
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 4 All-purpose
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 3 Zipper
Fig. 1
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 2
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 0 3-4 Zipper

20
OVEREDGING
The zigzag stitch is handy for overedging facings, hems,
and seam allowances to minimize raveling.
Position the fabric under the presser foot so the right
swing of the stitch forms just inside the edge of the fabric
[Fig. 1]. Test the position by turning the handwheel
toward you and manually "walking" the needle before
you begin sewing. Sew, guiding the fabric evenly.
BARTACKING
This stitch is excellent for reinforcing pocket corners and
belt loops. Because the feed teeth are lowered, there is
no need to make stitch length adjustments.
Determine the location for the bar tack and position the
fabric under the needle.
Sew 4-6 stitches [Fig. 2].
Raise the needle to its highest position. Turn the stitch
width dial to 0 and sew 3-4 stitches to secure the stitch.
SATIN STITCH for APPLIQUÉ
Use this popular, zigzag stitch creatively to sew appliqués.
Fuse a fabric appliqué shape to a base fabric. Place a
stabilizer beneath the base fabric [Fig. 3].
Satin stitch around the cut edges of the appliqué shape
guiding the fabric so the right swing of the stitch falls just
over the appliqué edge and into the base fabric [Fig. 4].
BUILT-IN STITCHES
STITCH “A” - ZIGZAG
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 3-5 2 All-purpose
STITCH STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED PRESSER FOOT
A 4-5 Lowered All-purpose
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 3-5 0.5-1 Open Toe
Fig. 1
Fig. 2 Bartacking
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Appliqué

21
BUILT-IN STITCHES
ATTACHING BUTTONS
Use this foot to quickly and securely attach flat buttons.
Attach the button sewing foot.
Set the stitch width to 0.
Position the button and fabric under the foot. Position the
needle over the left hole [Fig. 1]. Turn the handwheel to
make sure the needle clears the hole, and sew several
stitches to secure threads.
Turn the stitch width dial to 5 and reposition the fabric and
button to the left slightly so the needle is again aligned with
the left hole. Turn the handwheel to make sure the zigzag
stitch clears the holes of the button [Fig. 2]. Adjust the
stitch width, if needed. Sew 8-10 stitches [Fig. 3].
To secure the stitches, set the stitch width to 0, reposition
the needle over the button hole and sew a few stitches.
Remove the fabric and button from the machine and clip
the threads [Fig. 4].
SEAMING KNITS
A narrow zigzag stitch is very flexible and durable making
it suitable for medium to lightweight knit fabrics.
Align the edge of the fabric with the seam guide markings
on the needle plate and sew the seam being careful not
to stretch the fabric as you sew [Fig. 5].
STITCH “A” - ZIGZAG
STITCH STITCH WIDTH DROP FEED PRESSER FOOT
A 5 Lowered Button attaching
STITCH STITCH WIDTH STITCH LENGTH PRESSER FOOT
A 2 2-3 All-purpose
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
Fig. 5
Fig. 2
Seaming knits
Fig. 4
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