Swisher ZT2452A Operating instructions

REPAIR MANUAL
ZT2452A
Swisher Mower Co
Warrensburg, MO

Table of Contents
Belt Routing …………………………………………….……. 4
Wiring Diagram ………………………………………….…. 4
Diagnosing Starting Problems …………..…….…….. 5
Diagnosing PTO Clutch Problems ………………..…..6
Engine Running in Normal Mode ……………………..7
Battery Charging System ………………………………….8
Seat Switch – Ignition Kill Circuit …………………….. 8
Wiring Harness to Engine Plug Connection ………. 9
Drive Control Handle Adjustment …………….……. 10
Parking Brake Adjustment ……………………….…….. 10
Deck Repairs ………………………………………….………. 11
Replacement Parts – Quick Reference ………..…… 12
3

BELT ROUTING
Deck belt
Part# 3816 Transmission Belt# 4220
WIRING DIAGRAM
4

DIAGNOSING STARTING PROBLEMS
The gray wire connected to the L terminal
on the ignition switch is also connected to
the B terminal when the switch is turned
to the crank position. This wire supplies
current to the engine plug where it is sent
to the fuel solenoid on the carburetor. This
allow fuel to be pulled into the engine.
STARTER SOLENOID
You will notice that each position on the ignition switch sets up a certain section of the
total wiring diagram. This section is energized by turning the ignition switch to the start
position. The final purpose is to start the engine. The main components are the battery
and the starter; the other components are sub-switches to allow the current to get from
the battery to the starter. The solenoid is a heavy duty switch, designed to handle the
large amount of current needed to crank the engine. That’s why the cables are so big; to
handle that current. The other switches are for safety purposes to keep the mower from
moving; or the blades from turning; until the engine is running and ready to safely start
the mowing process.
The current needed to energize the solenoid is picked up at one of the large terminals on
the solenoid where the positive battery cable is connected. The current travels to the
ignition switch by going through the fuse. The B and S contacts are connected inside the
switch only when the switch is turned to the crank position. In order to close the contacts
inside, the PTO switch has to be turned off; the steering control arms must be pushed
outward to close both of the neutral switches; and the parking brake must be engaged to
close the brake switch. The current can then energize the coil inside the solenoid to
engage the contacts that short against the backside of the two large terminals on the
solenoid. This then passes the current from the battery to the starter.
Diagnosing a problem then involves making sure that the fuse is good, that all the wires
are connected and all switches are activated and making connection to pass the current.
NEUTRAL SWITCH
ON CONTROL ARM
PARKING
BRAKE SWITCH
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DIAGNOSING PTO CLUTCH PROBLEMS
The electric clutch can be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position.
For the purpose of checking out a problem with the circuit; the engine doesn’t
have to be running; the switch just needs to be in the run position.
First the battery has to have a full charge. Current will flow from the battery to the
connecting point at the solenoid. From there it flows through the red wire,
through the fuse and onto the ignition switch. If the switch is in the run position,
current will flow on to PTO switch. When the PTO switch is pulled on; a
connection is made to pass the current to the clutch. For the current to continue
on; there must be a good ground connection for the white wire.
Checking the circuit is done by following the circuit
from the battery to the ground; making sure that all
wiring has good connectors and switches are making
connection. A voltage meter is a good tool to check for
voltage at each connection and each switch. If there is
voltage on the brown wire at the clutch, but it still
won’t engage, you probably have a defective clutch.
Make sure it has a good ground on the white wire
before you replace it.
Apply a negative ground to this terminal
Apply 12 volts to this terminal. Clutch should
activate, if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.
6

ENGINE IN NORMAL RUNNING MODE
First the battery was used to start the engine; and
later it will be used to engage the PTO; but with the
ignition switch in the run position, and the engine
running, the battery is involved in three other
function. The red wire coming from the engine plug to
the terminal on the solenoid is used by the engine’s
alternator to charge the battery.
The gray wire coming from the L
terminal on the ignition switch
to the hour meter will drive the
meter; but first the green wire
has to be grounded. This is done
by the pressure switch in the
engine; next to the oil filter.
When the oil pressure is created
by the oil pump; this switch
closes and makes a connection
to ground for the green wire.
Only then does the meter begin
to run.
Also attached to the gray wire at the hour meter is another gray wire going to
the engine plug. It will connect to a gray wire going to the rear of the engine ,
to the carburetor. It powers the solenoid that opens the carburetor jet. The
black wire gives the circuit a ground .
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Voltage
Regulator

SEAT SWITCH –IGNITION KILL CIRCUIT
The seat switch is designed to kill the ignition on the engine, if the operator leaves
the seat, with the PTO engaged. The black wire at the engine plug is connected to
the kill wire that goes to the ignition module. Since the M terminal on the ignition
switch is also used to kill the engine when the switch is turned off; the seat switch
circuit is also connected there. When the PTO is on, a connection is made at that
switch to join the M terminal to the seat switch. Now if he leaves the seat, the
circuit is completed to ground the ignition module; and the engine shuts down.
Whether the operator is
on the seat or not, the
engine won’t start if the
seat plug is not completely
inserted. The small trigger
in the center must be flush
with the end of the plug;
or the plug itself will cause
a short to ground to kill
the ignition.
Red wire goes to the engine plug and then on to
the positive terminal of the solenoid to keep the
battery charged. Easiest way to check if charging is
taking place is to measure the DC voltage of the
battery before you start the engine. Then start the
engine. Measure the voltage at the battery with
the engine running. The voltage should be at least
one volt higher right after the engine is started.
This voltage will drop a little as the battery gets
recharged.
To test alternator before it goes to the regulator, unplug the yellow connector and
measure the AC voltage across the two gray wires inside this connecter. There
should be at least 20 volts AC while the engine is running.
Voltage
Regulator
BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM
PTO SWITCH
8

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION
WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE
Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid
Green wire goes to oil pressure switch
Black wire goes to engine ignition module
Red wire goes to engine charging system
Green wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid
with the positive battery cable.
Black wire goes to the ignition switch
Gray wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to
terminal on solenoid
with the positive
battery cable.
Black wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Gray wire goes to hour meter
Green wire goes to hour meter
9

DRIVE CONTROL HANDLE ADJUSTMENT
Before any adjustments are made to the drive control arms; put an equal amount
of air pressure in both rear wheel. If you push both handles forward as far as they
will go and they are straight across from each other; but one side is traveling faster
than the other; shorten the linkage on the side that is going the fastest.
If when you push both handles forward as far as they will go and the traveling
speed is the same on both sides so that you are going in a straight line; but one
handle is further forward than the other; shorten the linkage on the handle that is
further ahead.
The adjustment linkage is between the bottom of
the control arm and the hydro. There is one on each
side of the mower. To adjust, remove the hair pin at
the bottom of the control arm. Loosen the jam nut
and turn the threads in to shorten the linkage.
Reconnect the rod and hair pin and tighten the jam
nut. Test drive, and further adjust if needed.
PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
With the parking brake off; make sure the tooth arm and
the cog wheel are close to each other without touching.
Adjust the nut on the rod to achieve the clearance. Turn
the wheel by hand to see that there is no contact. Now
engage the parking brake to see if the two mate to keep
the wheel from turning. When adjustment is done;
engage the hydro and lower the jack. Repeat the
adjustment for the opposite side. Order new parts if
tooth arm or cog wheel are damaged.
The parking brake is a positive lock on the transaxle to keep
the mower stable when parked. It is not designed to be
used to stop the moving mower. Compare it to the Park
position on an automatic transmission in a car or pickup. If
it is used to stop the mower while in motion, the cog
system will be damaged. It is replaceable; but not a part
that will be covered under warranty. It does need to be
adjusted periodically.
To adjust; jack up one of the rear wheel. Disengage the
hydro by pulling back on the yellow handle down below
the rear of the engine mounting plate.
10

DECK REPAIRS
The deck can be removed by unhooking
these bars from the rear deck brackets.
By putting the bolts back only into the
bars, you can raise the deck lift handle
and get these bars out of the way. Also
remove this pin from the front of the
deck. Unhook the belt from the engine
pulley and you can now slide the deck
out from under the mower for repairs.
If the pulley nut is removed for
replacement of the blade spindle assembly;
the nut should be re-torque to 60 ft/lbs.
Each of the blade spindle assemblies has a
grease fitting; they should be greased about
every 10 hours of use. When blades are
removed for sharpening or replacement;
the bottom nut should be torque to 60
ft/lbs.
This spring, visible from in front and
above the deck, can be tightened to
make the deck lift easier. Don’t tighten
too much or the deck will tend to
bounce when mowing rough ground.
A properly adjusted deck should have the blades
about 3/8” lower in the front compared to the rear.
This adjustment can be made by parking your mower
on a level surface and measuring the distance from
the blade’s cutting edge to the ground. To adjust,
loosen the nuts on these bolts. One is located on
each of the left and right deck brackets. Position the
rear of the deck to achieve the desired 3/8”
difference and then retighten the nuts.
11

REPLACEMENT PARTS
QUICK REFERENCE
For additional assistance on service
Contact Swisher Mower Co., Inc.
Phone [phone]
Fax [phone]
E-mail [email protected]
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