United States Stove Company 1602M Setup guide

851767B-1905E
Model: 1602M
Wood or Coal Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Supplemental Furnace
United States Stove Company • 227 Industrial Park Road, P.O. Box 151 • South Pittsburg, TN 37380 • www.usstove.com
SAFETY NOTICE:
If this furnace is not properly installed, a house fire may result! For your safety, follow these installation instructions.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation requirements in your area. This furnace must
be installed by a qualified technician. Keep these instructions for future reference.
Installation/Operator’s Manual
Safety Tested to UL 391
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Certified to comply with 2015 particulate emissions standards.

2
INTRODUCTION
Thank You for your purchase of a U.S. Stove Wood/Coal
Burning Gravity Style (Up-Flow) Furnace. Your decision
to buy our Clayton Furnace was undoubtedly reached af-
ter much careful thought and consideration. We are very
proud you chose this furnace and trust you will receive
the comfort and economy that others realize when heat-
ing with a U.S. Stove product.
Your dealer is important in your experience with the fur-
nace not only with the purchase, but for recommendations
for professional installation in your home. The qualified
professional installer has been expertly trained in solid-
fuel furnace installation to assure the safety and comfort
for your family while saving you money. Trust your experi-
enced installer. He is a specialist in this field.
IMPORTANT
Before installing and using your Clayton furnace, please
read the following pages thoroughly and carefully. If you
follow the instructions, your Clayton furnace will give you
safe and more dependable service for years to come.
• First step: Check your local codes. This installation
must comply with their rulings.
• Do Not install this furnace in a mobile home or trailer
• Always have a smoke or ionization detector and a CO
detector installed in your home.
• To prevent injury or damage, do not allow anyone who
is unfamiliar with the furnace to operate it.
• This furnace must be installed ONLY in the prescribed
manner shown in illustrations 1, 2, or 3 under the In-
stallation Examples in this manual. It is NEVER to be
installed as a counter-flow or down-draft furnace, or
in any manner wherein the heated air is directed in a
downward flow into the home or toward to an existing
central furnace.
• NEVER INSTALL outside the home.
• Spend adequate time with your furnace to become well
acquainted with the different settings and how each
will affect its burning patterns. It is impossible to state
just how each setting will affect your furnace because
of the variations in each installation.
DISCLAIMER NOTICE
The BTU ranges and heating capacity specifications are
provided as a guide and in no way guarantee the output
or capacity of this unit. The actual BTU output depends
on the type of fuel being burned and its conditions, the
thermostat setting, the draft adjustment and the chimney
to which the unit is attached. The actual area that this unit
will heat depends on factors such as the conditions of the
building, heat loss, type of construction, amount of insu-
lation, type of air movement, the location of the unit and
more importantly the duct work and return air facility.
Warning:
Do not alter this appliance in any way other than specified
in these instructions. Doing so may void your warranty.
LOCATING YOUR FURNACE
The furnace is to be installed maintaining the clearances
specified in the following illustrations.
Do not place the furnace directly on a combustible floor.
If you are placing it on a combustible floor, an approved
fire retardant material, equivalent to 3/8” UL Listed mill-
board, should be placed under the unit. The material must
extend at least 16 inches beyond the front of the unit and
8 inches on either side of the fuel loading door opening. It
must also extend underneath the chimney connector and
to each side of the connector by at least 2 inches.
CLEARANCES
REDUCED CLEARANCES
NFPA guidelines and most codes permit reduced clear-
ances to combustible walls and ceilings if adequate pro-
tection is added. A common mistake is to assume that
sheet metal, masonry, or millboard placed directly against
a wall protects it. Materials installed in this manner actually
provides very little protection. These materials are good
heat conductors, so they will be almost as hot on their
back side as they are on the exposed side. Therefore, the
combustible wall behind is still a fire hazard.
A wall can be kept cool using these items but only if they
are mounted and spaced out from the wall by an inch or
two to allow free air circulation behind the protective panel.
The protective panel should also have a gap between the
floor and ceiling.
Three rules to follow when constructing wall protectors:
1. Non-combustibility of all materials including mount-
ing and supporting.
2. A well ventilated air space between protector and wall.
3. Sufficient strength and rigidity so that the protector
and air space will be durable.
22”
12”
20” 15”
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
COMBUSTIBLE WALL
FLUE
(TOP VIEW)
MINIMUM CLEARANCES
TO A COMBUSTIBLE
WALL
CAUTION:
DO NOT store
combustible or
flammable materials or
liquids near the
furnace.

3
PROTECTIVE COVERING
AND ALL SUPPORTS MUST
BE NON-COMBUSTIBLE
CONSTRUCTING
NON-COMBUSTIBLE
WALLS
2 in [5cm]
FROM FLOOR
2 in. [5cm]
FROM CEILING
1 in [2.5cm]
AIR SPACE
TOP OF CHIMNEY MUST BE
2 FEET [61cm] ABOVE
HIGHEST POINT OF THE
ROOF WITHIN 10 FEET
[305cm].
2 FT [61cm]
MINIMUM 3 FT [91cm]
MINIMUM
RECOMMENDED
MINIMUM HEIGHT
20 FT [610cm]
MINIMUM 3 FT[91cm] FROM
TOP OF CHIMNEY TO
POINT AT WHICH IT
PASSES THROUGH THE
ROOF.
CHIMNEY REQUIREMENTS
A fireclay lined masonry or Class A 103HT All-Fuel Metal
Insulated Chimney must be used in all airtight wood fur-
nace installations. The minimum recommended flue size
for the model 1602 is 6 inches, inside diameter. When
making new chimney installations, always follow the chim-
ney manufacturer’s instructions.
If at all possible, use the factory built, class A 103HT chim-
ney mentioned above. They are safer and perform better
than traditional masonry chimneys. If a masonry chim-
ney is a must, be certain it has a fire clay liner and that
it is intact, clean and recently inspected. And remember,
masonry chimneys are far more prone to the formation of
hazardous creosote.
1. The furnace should be the only heating using the chim-
ney flue. One furnace per flue outlet.
2. A masonry chimney should have a tile or stainless steel
liner.
3. The masonry chimney should not have any missing
mortar or loose bricks.
4. There should be no mortar or parts of the chimney
blocking the chimney flue.
5. There should be a two inch clearance between any
chimney (masonry or metal) and combustibles. (such
as the house)
6. The chimney should extend at least 2 foot above the
highest point of the house, or 2 foot above the point at
which the chimney is 10 foot from the roof.
7. The chimney should be relatively straight and vertical.
8. The portion of an all-fuel metal chimney that extends
above the roof should be well secured.
9. A masonry chimney should be built on footings and not
attached to the house.
10.A rain cap, complete with an animal or bird screen,
should be installed on top of the chimney.
IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT
Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up
through the chimney. The amount of draft in your chimney
depends on the length of the chimney, local geography,
nearby obstructions and other factors. Too much draft
may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. In-
adequate draft may cause backpuffing into the room and
‘plugging’ of the chimney.
“Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke
into the room through appliance and chimney connector
joints.”
“An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indi-
cates excessive draft.”
Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is not
too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause un-
healthy or nuisance conditions.
CREOSOTE - FORMATION AND NEED
FOR REMOVAL
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to
form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the rela-
tively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ig-
nited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected
at least twice monthly during the heating season to deter-
mine if a creosote build-up has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a
chimney fire.

4
SMOKE PIPE INSTALLATION
Clearances to combustible materials (i.e. paneling, ceil-
ing tile, sheet rock, plaster, draperies, casements or wood
trim, etc.) will vary with the type of flue connection used.
Be sure to maintain the specified clearances for your type
of installation.
TYPE OF FLUE REQUIRED
CONNECTION CLEARANCE
24 Gauge or Heavier ............................. 18”
Single Wall Stainless Steel or Black Pipe
Double Wall, Stainless Steel or .............. 6”
Double Wall, Black Pipe w/
Stainless Steel Inner wall
Class A 103HT All-Fuel or Equivalent 2”
According to NFPA standards, single wall stove pipes
can be within 9” of combustibles provided an approved
fire retardant material covered with 28 gauge sheet metal,
spaced out 1” on non-combustible spacers, is utilized. See
illustration.
When using a Class A or double wall flue pipe connection,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
When constructing a single wall smoke pipe, the following
guidelines must be observed.
1. The connector pipe should be 24 gauge or heavier
stainless steel or black pipe.
2. Secure all joints with three #8 screws.
3. If the connector pipe must pass through a wall, an ap-
proved insulated or ventilated thimble, at least three
times the diameter of the smoke pipe must be used.
(i.e. a 6” diameter smoke pipe needs an 18” thimble).
4. The connector pipe should never be used as a chim-
ney.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ALL
CONNECTOR PIPES
The connector pipe must be constructed and installed
so that it maintains clearances, keeps condensation and
creosote within the pipe, and is capable of withstanding a
2100°F degree chimney fire.
1. The connector pipe should slant down toward the fur-
nace a minimum of 1/4” to the foot. At no time should
the pipe turn downward toward the chimney or run
horizontal.
2. There should be no more than two 90 degree elbows.
3. The connector pipe should never be longer than six
feet. If it is absolutely necessary to make a run of more
than six feet (not recommended) use extra support
brackets every 3 feet.
4. The connector pipe should never be reduced to a
smaller size than flue opening on the furnace.
5. The connector pipe should not block the flue of the
chimney or extend into it in any way.
6. A good airtight thimble should be used to hold the con-
nector pipe in the chimney. It should be constructed so
the connector pipe can be removed for cleaning.
7. The connector pipe should not leave the heated por-
tion of the building to reach the chimney.
8. The connector pipe should not pass from one story
to the next before entering the chimney, nor should it
pass through any closed or enclosed space.
9. The connector pipe and any elbows must be of 24
gauge or greater.
10. The connector pipe should not be located near or in a
walk way or well traveled area.
11. All male ends of connector pipe should run or point
towards the furnace.
12. Install a cast iron adjustable damper in the first joint of
the connector pipe, nearest to the flue collar.
DAMPERS ON STOVE PIPES
When burning coal, we recommend a Barometric Draft
Damper be installed at a safe convenient place between
chimney and your furnace preferably less than 3’ from the
flue collar.
When you have installed the connector pipe between your
furnace and the chimney, tap the pipe hard with your fin-
gernail. Remember the sound it makes - it will be a “ting”
echoing inside the stove pipe. If later you tap and hear
a muffled thud, you are building up soot in the pipe and
should clean it. This pipe should be cleaned at least once
or twice during the heating season.
DO NOT CONNECT TWO HEATERS TO THE SAME
CHIMNEY FLUE. The National Fire Prevention Associa-
tion recommends that wood burning appliances vent into
a separate flue from gas or oil furnaces. If such an instal-
lation is contemplated, first check with a local building in-
spector to find out if a separate flue for a wood burner is
required.
18” [46cm] 18” [46cm]
9” [23cm]

5
Use of a Barometric Draft Control (when burning wood) is
recommended ONLY in the event your chimney creates
excessive draft leading to an over-firing condition.
HEATED AIR DISCHARGE
The Clayton furnace is designed for use as a supplemen-
tal heating source. When used as a supplementary fur-
nace, it is connected in conjunction with an oil, gas, or
electric furnace to the existing duct work which distributes
the heated air into several rooms and/or areas.
Though United States Stove Company expressly Does Not
recommend the use of its furnaces to be installed and/or
used as a free-standing heater, it is possible to achieve a
reasonably safe and functional installation IF certain stan-
dard procedures are followed. The following are guide-
lines only and are intended to enable the furnace user to
obtain reasonable efficiency from his furnace, and with
due respect to safety when installing as a “free-standing
heater”. If installed correctly, and in accordance with the
instructions found in this manual, your warm air furnace
may be installed as a “space heater” within living quarters,
cabins, garage, or workshop. Please adhere to the fol-
lowing:
1. The use of a cold air return and/or filter box is man-
datory. This will not only increase your blower life and
provide filtered air, it will also help prevent the blower or
blowers from “capturing” heated air exiting from the top of
the furnace heat outlets.
2. If installed as purchased , without directing the heat
away from the furnace itself, it will simply sit and cycle,
turning the blowers off and on. The thermostat may not
function properly.
3. All larger furnaces (or those with multi-speed blowers)
absolutely require BACK PRESSURE to prevent prema-
ture motor winding failure. If allowed to operate at high
RPM (As in “FREE AIR” mode - no duct work or flow re-
strictions) the windings overheat, insulation melts and the
motor simply burns up - not covered under warranty.
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT
TO FURNACE
We strongly recommend that the hot air duct work be in-
stalled by a home heating specialist. If doing the installa-
tion yourself, before you decide which installation will best
suit your needs, consult a qualified heating technician and
follow his recommendations as to the safest and most ef-
ficient method of installation.
The following illustrations are the ONLY acceptable con-
figurations when installed with existing oil or gas furnaces.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
Installation #1
With this installation, a back draft damper (optional) is inserted
into the heat run before the plenum of the existing furnace to pre-
vent air from the existing furnace to blow back into the furnace
when it is not in use. When a back damper is employed, it should
be located as close to the existing furnace plenum as practical.
INSTALLATION #2
Extending the hot air duct from the furnace into the existing plenum
will help direct the flow of air from the furnace as well as the flow
in the existing furnace. Ducting entering the existing plenum at an
angle (approximately 45 degrees) will facilitate air flow from the fur-
nace while diverting air from the existing furnace.
INSTALLATION #3
The baffle on this system should be made the full width of the furnace
plenum in order to properly direct the air into the distribution ducts.

6
RETURN AIR IS VERY IMPORTANT
When installing a Clayton Furnace, return air MUST BE in-
corporated into the system. Return air can be provided by
installing a separate duct system or by tying into the cold
air return of an existing gas or oil furnace. The cold air re-
turn duct can be connected to the furnace with either a fac-
tory manufactured U. S. Stove filter box, model UFB908 or
an equivalent fabricated from sheet metal.
When installing a cold air return, the minimum size shall
be a 16” x 20” or equivalent (320 sq. in.) in order to insure
proper furnace performance. Failure to provide return air
ducts of the specified size will void your warranty.
A filter should be installed in the cold air return. Furnace
filters should be checked and cleaned/replaced regularly.
If return air is not provided, the warm air distributed into
your home will be restricted and the efficiency of the fur-
nace is decreased. Without a return air system, warm air
will be drawn into your basement, unnecessarily heating
unused areas of the home. In extreme cases, if your base-
ment or utility room is fairly airtight, the blowers on the
furnace could depressurize the room and pull toxic flue
gases from the furnace, a gas water heater, or gas fur-
nace. The fumes could then be distributed throughout the
house.
COMBUSTION AIR
All fires need air (specifically oxygen) to burn. Furnaces,
fireplaces, and wood burning furnaces need enough oxy-
gen for complete combustion of their fuels. The incomplete
combustion that takes place when a furnace is “air starved”
causes carbon monoxide (CO) to be formed in quantities
that can be dangerous inside a well sealed house. Hav-
ing a source of combustion air from outside the home will
prevent “air starvation” of the furnace. A simple positive air
supply can be constructed using dryer vent and a modified
termination.
NEGATIVE
PRESSURE IN
BASEMENT
THE PLENUM OPENINGS DIFFER
BETWEEN THE 1602 AND 1802
MODEL 1602 - 13” x 18” Rectangular
MODEL 1802 - 18” x 18” Rectangular
PLENUM OPENING

7
FURNACE ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Unpack your Furnace and insure that there is no ship-
ping damage. If damage exist, please contact your deal-
er immediately. Your Clayton Furnace will require some
assembly before operation. All needed hardware and
components for the following assemblies are included
within the parts boxes inside the furnace and in the ash
pan. Read and follow these instructions for proper fur-
nace assembly.
DOOR HANDLES
Insert door handle into door. From rear side of door, place
a 1/2” washer over the threaded part of the handle, then
attach the lock nut. Tighten the nut, then back off 1/4 turn
to allow free operation of the handle. Follow these same
directions for the ash door handle assembly.
(2) Door Handle
(2) 1/2” Washer
(2) 1/2” Lock Nut
ASH DOOR SPIN DRAFT
Screw the spin draft onto the 3/8” x 2-1/2” carriage bolt.
Then screw the spin draft and bolt into the ash door al-
lowing approximately 1/2” of the bolt to stick through the
back side of the ash door. Secure the bolt in place with
the 3/8”-16 lock nut.
(1) Spin Draft
(1) 3/8-16 Carriage
Bolt
(1) 3/8-16 Lock Nut
FUEL & ASH DOOR LATCH
With two 1/4-20 x 3/4 hex bolts each, attach the door
latches to the door latch mounting brackets on the left
side of the door frames as illustrated. The slots in the
brackets and latches are for door seal adjustment. Make
the proper adjustments, then tighten the nuts. The door’s
gasket should be snug against the door frame on the fur-
nace. Feed Door
Illustration
Ash Door
Illustration
(1) Feed Door Latch
(1) Ash Door Latch
(4) 1/4-20 x 3/4 Hex Bolt
(4) 1/4-20 Kep Nut
BRACKET
SHAKER GRATE HANDLE
Insert the Shaker Rod into the hole on the ash door frame
as shown. Then attach the Shaker Bracket to the front of
the furnace using two 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolts and two
1/4-20 Lock Nuts. Next, insert the shaker Rod into the
bracket and attach to the shaker grate bar using the 1/4-
20 x 1” Hex Bolt and a 1/4-20 Lock Nut. The bolt and nut
retaining the shaker bar and rod should be left loose to
allow free movement of the grates.
(1) Shaker Rod
(1) Shaker Bracket
(1) 1/4-20 x 1” Hex Bolt
(2) 1/4-20 x 3/4” Hex Bolt
(3) 1/4-20 Lock Nut
FRONT
SMOKE CURTAIN
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
NUT
BOLT
1/4-20 NUT
SMOKE CURTAIN
CLIP
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
CARRIAGE BOLT
SMOKE CURTAIN
SMOKE CURTAIN
Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4” Carriage bolts, the smoke cur-
tain clips and two nuts, attach the smoke curtain in place
above the Fuel Feed Door as shown below. After instal-
lation, the smoke curtain should swing freely back into
the furnace.
(1) Smoke Curtain (2) Smoke Cur-
tain Clips
(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Carriage Bolt (2) 1/4-20 Kep Nut

8
SPRING HANDLES
Attach the four(4) spring handles to the Feed/Ash Doors,
Baffle Rod, and Shaker Rod by twisting the springs
counter-clockwise while applying pressure until you have
screwed them approximately 3/4”-1” onto the rods.
(4) Spring Handles
(2) 800 CFM Blower
(2) Gasket, Blower
(8) Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20
(8) 1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt
(2) Conduit Assembly (5ft)
(1) Honeywell Limit Control
(1) Conduit Assembly (1ft)
(1) Junction Box
(1) Insulation (5” x 5”)
(1) Rocker Switch
(1) Romex Cable Clamp
(1) Fan Center Control
(3) 73B Wire Nut
(1) 74B Wire Nut
(1) Female Term. (blue)
(1) Female Term. (red)
(8) #10 x 1/2 Screw
DISTRIBUTION BLOWER & ACC.
1. Remove all contents and insure that all components
are present for assembly. See the part list below
2. Begin by attaching the blowers to the unit. Insert a
clip into each mounting hole in the furnace’s cabinet
back. Be sure to install the gasket between the blow-
er and cabinet back. Insert the eight bolts provided
and tighten.
3. Insert the adjustable snap-disc into the hole in the
upper-left hand corner of the cabinet back. Attach us-
ing two of the #10 x 1/2 screws provided.
4. Find the Snap-Disc box, the small black box shown
on the left side in the illustration. Attach the shorter
conduit assembly to the bottom of the box, securing
it with the nut on the fitting.
5. Plug the wires onto the snap-disc (see wiring sche-
matic) and then attach the box to the back of the unit
using four of the #10 x 1/2 screws provided.
6. Next, mount the junction box and insulation using
two of the #10 x 1/2 screws provided. Install the 5 x
5 insulation between the cabinet back and junction
box, with the foil side to the cabinet back. Attach the
conduit assembly from the snap-disc box to the junc-
tion box as shown.
7. If not already installed, snap the rocker switch into
the top of the junction box.
8. Attach the two longer conduit assemblies to the junc-
tion box and to each blower.
9. Provide a 110v power supply and secure it with the
cable clamp to the right side of the box. Make all
wire connections per the wiring schematic in these
instructions using the supplied hardware. Mount the
junction box cover.
(1) Spin Draft
(1) 3/8-16 Carriage Bolt
(1) 3/8-16 Lock Nut
SPIN DAMPER
Screw the spin draft onto the 3/8” x 2-1/2” carriage bolt
followed by the 3/8”-16 lock nut. Then screw the spin draft
and bolt into the Combustion Air Inlet allowing approxi-
mately 1/2” of the bolt to stick through into the threaded
part of the tube. Secure the bolt in place with the 3/8”-16
lock nut by tightening it against the tube bracket.

9
FIREBOX BRICK REPLACEMENT
This furnace comes from the factory with the firebrick in-
stalled. However, if brick replacement is necessary, fol-
low these instructions. Before furnace operation, remove
the brick retaining strip. This piece is used during ship-
ping to reduce brick damage.
There are 6 full brick and 1 half brick per side. Install the
half brick first by putting the bottom of the brick in first
and let it rest against the firebox side and fire grates.
Then slide it to the rear. After that, install the #2, #3, #4,
#5 & #6 brick, sliding the 6th brick forward to allow for the
7th brick. Repeat for opposite side.
NOTE: Prior to operation, be sure to remove the brick
retaining strips.
WIRING DIAGRAM
FIREBRICK AND BAFFLE REPLACEMENT
BAFFLE/BRICK REPLACEMENT
If baffle replacement is necessary, slide the baffle out un-
til you can access the nuts thru the flue outlet. Once the
nuts have been removed, slide the baffle off the rod and
thru the opening in the firebrick. You may have to remove
one of the firebrick to make baffle removal easier.
There are 4 full brick and 1 half brick in the top of the
furnace. Install the brick by inserting one end of the brick
angled upward and then allowing the opposite end to rest
on the firebox lip. Lay the brick between the spacer and
firebox back. Slide the baffle to the rear and let it rest on
that half brick. After installing brick #2 in the front, install
#3 and slide it under the baffle. Finally install bricks #4
and #5.
All electrical connections should be done by
a qualified electrician.
NOTE: The extra brown wire on the fan
center has no use. It should be capped off or
removed.
The conduit may be cut shorter to provide a
cleaner installation

10
TESTING AND OPERATING PROCEDURES
FACTORY SETTING
120°F
125°F
130°F
135°F
140°F100°F
105°F
110°F
115°F
GENERAL FURNACE OPERATION
When you start a fire in the furnace and it reaches operat-
ing temperature, the blower(s) will come on automatically.
The snap-disc is adjustable from 100°F(A) to 140°F(E),
Each click on the switch is approximately 5°F. It comes
from the factory, set at 120°F, setting C. The rocker switch
on the top of the junction box gives you the option to run
one blower or two. If the switch is ON, both blowers will
come on when the snap-disc reaches the set temperature.
If the swithc is OFF, only one blower will operate.When the
furnace temperature drops approximately 20°F below the
snap-disc setting, the blower(s) will shut off.
FUEL SELECTION
The top down method of fire building is recommended for
this appliance. After making sure that the stove air intake
controls are fully open (completely pull-out towards you),
Place the largest pieces of wood on the bottom, laid in
parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed in
a second layer, crossways to the first. A third layer of still
smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second, this time
with some spaces between. Then a fourth layer of loose,
small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops off the
pile.
Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally result
when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as com-
pared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
1. Garbage;
2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
4. Materials containing plastic;
5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint thinners, or
asphalt products;
6. Materials containing asbestos;
7. Construction or demolition debris;
8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
9. Manure or animal remains;
10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water sat-
urated materials;
11. Unseasoned wood; or
12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or particleboard.
The prohibition against burning these materials does
not prohibit the use of fire starters made from paper,
cardboard, saw dust, wax and similar substances for
the purpose of starting a fire in an affected wood heat-
er.
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic
fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.
Dead wood lying on the forest floor should be considered
wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead wood
can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. Split-
ting and stacking wood before it is stored accelerates dry-
ing time. Storing wood on an elevated surface from the
ground and under a cover or covered area from rain or
snow also accelerates drying time. A good indicator if
wood is ready to burn is to check the piece ends. If there
are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then
the wood should be dry enough to burn. If your wood siz-
zles in the fire, even though the surface is dry, it may not
be fully cured, and should be seasoned longer
STARTING A WOOD FIRE
CAUTION: Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel,
kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or
“freshen up” a fire in the furnace. Keep all such liquids well
away from the furnace while it is in use.
CAUTION: To prevent flame and smoke spillage, the slide
baffle must be pulled out and the fuel door must be cracked
for ten seconds before being fully opened.
Do not over fire your furnace! After you have become fa-
miliar with its operating, you should know how much wood
to use.
1. Open spin draft cap on ash door.
2. Pull the slide baffle rod to the front position.
3. Open the fuel load door and light fire using kindling
and several sheets of newspaper, then close the fur-
nace door. The furnace door should remain closed for
5 to 10 minutes in order to establish the fire. If the fire
has established, you are ready to load the furnace.
4. Load the furnace, close the load door and push the
slide Baffle rod to rear.
5. Close the spin draft cap on ash door, leaving it cracked
about the diameter of a dime.
6. Adjust the spin draft cap on the intake just below the
feed door to allow sufficient combustion air into the
firebox. This setting may increase or decrease de-
pending on the fuel being used and it’s moisture con-
tent.

11
7. The blower(s) will being to distribute warm air when
the snap-disc reached set-point.
STARTING A WOOD FIRE
Using Forced Air Draft (optional)
Shut off FAD when fuel door is open
1. Start a fire inside the firebox as described above.
2. The forced air draft cycles on demand from the wall
thermostat. Setting the U.S. Stove thermostat four de-
grees higher than your existing thermostat is recom-
mended. In operation, the power draft blower will run
until the U.S. Stove thermostat temperature setting is
reached. The draft regulator on the forced air draft is
preset at the factory and should require no adjustment.
CAUTION: To avoid excessive temperatures, do not
operate with fuel door or ash pan open.
STARTING A COAL FIRE
If you burn coal, a forced air draft is required
Shut off FAD when fuel door is open
• Open smoke pipe damper all the way. Open all draft
controls on your furnace. Pull the slide baffle forward.
• Place about 10-15 lb. of coal in on the shaker grates. It
should come up to about half of the first firebrick level.
• Place crumpled paper over the coal and crisscross a
couple handfuls of dry kindling wood 3/4” in thickness
on top of paper.
• Ignite the paper and close loading door. Wait about
30 minutes until coal fire is established before adding
more coal. NOTE: NEVER load coal over the level of
firebrick.
• Close by-pass damper and set all draft controls to your
own needs. It may take 3 to 4 coal fires to determine
how your local coal and the Clayton Furnace reacts
together. Adjusts drafts accordingly.
• Loading with a good bed of coals in the morning -
Open by-pass damper.
1. In normal shaking, only rock the grates a small amount
to sift ash through. Do not agitate the fire bed too of-
ten. This practice will waste coal. If glowing coal is vis-
ible in the ash pan, you have shaken to much.
2. Remove all ashes every day from ash pit.
CAUTION: Ashes should be placed in a metal container
with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground
well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the
closed container until all coals have thoroughly cooled.
3. With your poker, push hot burning embers to the rear
of the unit and add green coal in front. NEVER load
over height of firebrick. This can result in damage to
your furnace and home.
4. Close by-pass damper.
• Too much draft air will cause clinkering of coal and will
waste heat up the chimney. Shut draft down to as low
a point as you can and still heat your home.
1. NOTE: Never stand in front of loading door when
opening it. Stand to the side.
2. NEVER completely cover the live fire with fresh coal.
Always leave a generous area of glowing coal at the
top of the fire and at the rear.
3. Always keep the ash pit clean.
• If the fire goes out or does not hold overnight, look for:
1. Poor draft.
2. Incorrect damper settings.
3. Improper firing methods for coal being used.
4. More combustion air needed.
5. Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3”
diameter pieces of coal.
6. Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will
not allow the passage of required air for combustion.
Keep ash pit clean.
7. This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker
unless so certified.
• There are ONLY two types of coal allowed for use in
this furnace: Bituminous Coal (soft coal) and Anthra-
cite Coal (hard coal). NEVER USE Cannel (or Chan-
nel) coal or Brown (Lignite) Coal.
• See our Bulletin RC454 at the rear of this manual for
the best information available on burning coal.
OPERATING NOTES
• Do not over draft the furnace! It is designed to operate
at .06 inches of water column and must be set with
a draft gauge to maintain a steady draft. (Barometric
Damper recommended.)
• Do not allow ashes to build up higher than 2” above
grates.
• Never allow the ashes in the ash pan touch the grate
section. REMOVE ASHES FREQUENTLY!
• Be extremely careful when removing furnace ash pan;
it can get very hot.
• With new steel, there is a small amount of oil or dirt on
the metal. You may smell an odor. This is normal dur-
ing the first operation. You may want to assemble the
furnace out of doors and build a small fire in it to “burn
off” this dirt and oil before installing the unit.
• The furnace is designed to burn air dried wood and
coal at a predetermined firing rate. Over firing could
result in damage to the heat exchanger and cause

12
THIS IS A WOOD AND COAL BURNING FURNACE AND SHOULD NOT BE ALTERED IN ANY WAY!
DOING SO WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!
ATTENTION:
is wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
dangerous operation. Over firing occurs when the ash
door is left open during operation or a highly volatile
fuel, i.e. large amounts of small kindling, is used. If any
portion of the connector pipe glows orange or red, you
are in an over-firing situation. Close all dampers.
• When tending the firebox always pull the baffle slide
rod out prior to opening load door. Open load door
slowly to avoid a “flash back”. After closing load door,
push the baffle slide rod to the rear.
• Equip your home with fire extinguishers and smoke
detectors appropriately located.
• Inspect air filters regularly. The air filter in the filter box
should be changed at least every 30 days.
• Oil motor on forced air draft every 90 days with a few
drops of 30 wt. oil.
• The distribution blower motors may be one of two
types. If the motor has sealed bearings, no oiling is
required.
• If the motor is equipped with fill holes, the motor should
be oiled every 90 days with several drops of 30 wt. oil.
• Check the fit on the load door. It must fit tightly. If it
does not, check for deterioration or wear of the ce-
ramic rope seal. Replace defective seals.
• Inspect and clean your chimney and stove pipe regu-
larly.
• In event of chimney fire, shut all draft controls and call
your fire department immediately. Alert everyone in the
house. If the fire is still burning vigorously, throw bak-
ing soda into firebox or discharge a fire extinguisher
into the firebox. After chimney fire is over, completely
inspect system for damage before further use.
• NEVER throw water on the fire or at the furnace,
as rapidly expanding steam could result in a severe
scalding.
• Slow fires: It is not recommended burning the Clayton
furnace any more than necessary early in the fall and
late spring, as you cannot keep the firebox hot enough
(without overheating your home) to burn gases. Slow
fires can cause excessive creosote build-up in smoke
pipe, chimney and firebox.
• Wood should be placed directly onto the cast iron
shaker grate of the Clayton furnace. Do not use ad-
ditional grates and/or irons.
• In the event of a power failure, you may operate the
furnace, provided the following instructions are fol-
lowed:
1. Any air filter should be removed.
2. Observe the furnace operation closely and often till
power is restored.
• Do not burn garbage, plastics, gasoline, drain oil or
other flammable liquids. Plastics, when burned, form
hydrofluoric and hydrochloric acids which will damage
and destroy your furnace pipe and chimney. The burn-
ing of trash or oil can result in an extremely hot fire
and is sometimes a cause of chimney fires. NEVER
BURN GREEN WOOD OR TIRES.
• Do not store fuel or other combustible material within
marked installation clearances.
NOTE: For further information on using your furnace
safely, obtain a copy of the National Fire Protection Asso-
ciation publication “Using Coal and Wood Stoves Safely.”
NFPA NO. NW-8-1974. The address of the NFPA is 470
Atlantic Ave., Boston, Massachusetts 02210.
TAMPER WARNING
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low
burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal reg-
ulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood
heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions
in this manual.
VISIBLE SMOKE
The amount of visible smoke being produced can be an ef-
fective method of determining how efficiently the combus-
tion process is taking place at the given settings. Visible
smoke consist of unburned fuel and moisture leaving your
stove. Learn to adjust the air settings of your specific unit
to produce the smallest amount of visible smoke. Wood
that has not been seasoned properly and has a high wood
moisture content will produce excess visible smoke and
burn poorly.
EFFICIENCY
Efficiencies can be based on either the lower heating val-
ue (LHV) or the higher heating value (HHV) of the fuel.
The lower heating value is when water leaves the com-
bustion process as a vapor, in the case of woodstoves the
moisture in the wood being burned leaves the stove as a
vapor. The higher heating value is when water leaves the
combustion process completely condensed. In the case
of woodstoves this would assume the exhaust gases are

13
room temperature when leaving the system, and therefore
calculations using this heating value consider the heat go-
ing up the chimney as lost energy. Therefore, efficiency
calculated using the lower heating value of wood will be
higher than efficiency calculated using the higher heat-
ing value. In the United States all woodstove efficiencies
should be calculated using the higher heating value.
The best way to achieve optimum efficiencies is to learn
the burn characteristic of you appliance and burn well-
seasoned wood. Higher burn rates are not always the
best heating burn rates; after a good fire is established a
lower burn rate may be a better option for efficient heat-
ing. A lower burn rate slows the flow of usable heat out of
the home through the chimney, and it also consumes less
wood.
OPERATIONAL TIPS
• Operational Tips for Good, Efficient, and Clean Com-
bustion
• Get the appliance hot and establish a good coal bed
before adjusting to a low burn rate (this may take 30
minutes or more depending on your wood)
• Use smaller pieces of wood during start-up and a high
burn rate to increase the stove temperature
• Be considerate of the environment and only burn dry
wood
• Burn small, intense fires instead of large, slow burning
fires when possible
• Learn your appliance’s operating characteristics to ob-
tain optimum performance
• Burning unseasoned wet wood only hurts your stoves
efficiency and leads to accelerated creosote buildup
in your chimney
OVER FIRING
Attempts to achieve heat output rates that exceed heater
design specifications can result in permanent damage to
the heater.
ASH REMOVAL AND DISPOSAL
Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your firebox or
ash pan, and when the fire has burned down and cooled,
remove excess ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately
1 inch deep on the firebox bottom to help maintain a hot
charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-
fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed
on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, away from all
combustible materials, pending final disposal. The ashes
should be retained in the closed container until all cinders
have thoroughly cooled.
SMOKE AND CO MONITORS
Burning wood naturally produces smoke and carbon
monoxide(CO) emissions. CO is a poisonous gas when
exposed to elevated concentrations for extended periods
of time. While the modern combustion systems in heaters
drastically reduce the amount of CO emitted out the chim-
ney, exposure to the gases in closed or confined areas can
be dangerous. Make sure you stove gaskets and chimney
joints are in good working order and sealing properly to
ensure unintended exposure. It is recommended that you
use both smoke and CO monitors in areas having the po-
tential to generate CO.
GASKETS
It is recommended that you change the door gasket (which
makes your stove door air tight) once a year, in order to
insure good control over the combustion, maximum ef-
ficiency and security. To change the door gasket, simply
remove the damaged one. Carefully clean the available
gasket groove, apply a high temperature silicone sold for
this purpose, and install the new gasket. You may light
up your stove again approximately 24 hours after having
completed this operation. This unit’s doors use a 3/8” di-
ameter rope gasket.

14
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND PROBLEM SOLVING
1. Problem:
Smoke puffs from furnace
Solution:
A. Check chimney draft. Check for blocked chimney or
flue pipe. Use mirror to check chimney clearance.
B. Check ash pit — if it is too full, empty.
C. Make sure furnace room is not too airtight.
D. Make sure all of chimney mortar connections are airtight.
E. Check ash drawer. Make sure it’s airtight.
F. Check chimney for possible down-draft caused by
taller surrounding trees or objects. Correct with proper
chimney vent cap.
G. Check the possibility of a cold chimney forcing cool
gases backward. Remedied by properly insulating
chimney with non-combustible liner — non-combustible
insulation.
H. Fuel may be too green.
I. Make sure no other fuel burning devices are connected
to the chimney impairing the draft.
J. Check chimney draft, it should be .06 inches of water
column. This service is provided by a certified chimney
sweep.
2. Problem:
Inadequate heat being delivered to your home
Solution:
A. Check home insulation — is it adequate?
B. Check hook-up to furnace — is it installed correctly?
C. Cool air inlet may be inadequate or furnace room too
airtight.
D. Your wood fuel may be too low grade. Hardwoods are
recommended.
E. Make sure your hot air duct (and other duct work) is
airtight.
F. If furnace room is warm but your home isn’t, check back
draft dampers.
G. Is air to the blower available?
3. Problem:
Excess smoke or flames coming out door when refueling
Solution:
A. Wait 15 seconds and open door SLOWLY — then refuel.
B. Check length of flue pipe to chimney. Your unit should
be within six (6) feet of your chimney.
C. Make sure chimney cap is not too close to the top of
the chimney.
D. Check chimney draft — make sure chimney flue pipe
is clean and chimney is of adequate height.
E. Make sure you’re not suffocating the fire with excessive
amounts of unburned wood.
F. Slide baffle should be pulled out prior to load door
opening.
4. Problem:
Distribution blower vibrating
Solution:
A. Tighten blower wheel to motor shaft.
B. Check for bad fan bearings.
5. Problem:
Distribution blower continues to run or will not run
Solution:
A. Check fan limit or heat sensor and cable.
B. Check to see that blower is properly wired.
(See Wiring and Assembly Instructions).
C. Check fuse box or power source.
D. Check power supply.
6. Problem:
Draft blower continues to run or will not run
Solution:
A. Check wiring.
B. Check thermostat or thermostat wire for short.
C. Make sure temperature is calling for heat.
7. Problem:
Odor from first fire
Solution:
A. The odor from new steel should disappear in a few
hours.
B. If the odor remains, call you dealer immediately. A bad
weld can cause a fume leak.
8. Problem:
Excessive Creosote
Solution:
A. Check the grade of wood you are burning.
B. Make sure your unit is serviced by its own
proper chimney.
C. Check length of flue pipe and its connections.
D. Make sure you are burning the smallest, hottest fire to
adequately heat your home.
E. Also see Solutions to Problem one.
9. Problem:
If the fire goes out or does not hold over night
Solution:
A. Poor Draft.
B. Incorrect damper settings.
C. Improper firing methods if burning coal.
D. More combustion air needed.
E. Coal not sized to the furnace. We recommend 1” to 3”
diameter pieces of coal.
F. Ashes, if allowed to accumulate in the ash pit, will not
allow passage of the required air for combustion. Keep
ash pit clean.
G. This furnace is not to be used with an automatic stoker
unless so certified.

15
PARTS DIAGRAM
11
12
13
16
15
17
14
7
10
5
23
6
30 29
4
3
2
1
35
3
8
9
24
26
25
27
17
16
319
18
20
28
34 21
22
32
33
23
31

16
PARTS DIAGRAM AND LIST
38
45
44
46
48
40
37
36
39
41
42
43
47
49
IMPORTANT NOTE:
When ordering repair parts, a color code (G) should be placed after
the part number of any part that is painted.
Key Description Part # Qty
1 Feed Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket) 69091 1
2 Door Handle 24179 2
N/S Lock Nut, 1/2-13 83444 2
N/S Washer 83835 2
3 Spring Handle 89574 4
4 Feed Door Latch 23786 1
5 Ash Door Assy. (w/Rope Gasket) 68880 1
6 Draft Cap 23859 2
N/S Carriage Bolt, 3/8-16 x 2-1/2” 83835 2
7 Ash Door Latch 23823 1
N/S Hinge Pin, 5/16” x 1” C21399 4
8 Shaker Handle 69005 1
9 Bracket, Shaker Handle 24204 1
10 Ash Pan 68882 1
11 Grate Retainer 40312 2
12 Shaker Bar 891341 1
13 Shaker Grate Section 40314 5
14 Back Liner 40313 1
15 Front Liner 40344 1
16 Full Firebrick (4-1/2 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick) 89066 16
17 Half Firebrick (2-1/4 wide x 9 tall x 1-1/4 thick) 891414 3
18 Slide Baffle 24231 1
19 Baffle Rod 86603 1
20 Lock Nut, 1/2-13 83444 2
21 Gasket, Flue Collar 88032 1
22 Flue Collar 40246 1
23 Flue Collar Ring 22761 1
24 Smoke Curtain 23800 1
25 Smoke Door Clip 23787 2
26 Carriage Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 Long 83445 2
27 Kep Nut, 1/4-20 83250 2
28 Cabinet Side, Left 69452 1
29 Cabinet Side, Right 69453 1
30 Blank Receptacle, Snap-In 891127 1
31 Cabinet Back 25624 1
32 Insulation, Panel C98871 1
N/S Insulation Retainer 83884 12
33 Cabinet Top 69088 1
34 Front Filler 23817 1
35 Draft Cover 23818 1
36 Room Blower - 800 CFM 80530 2
37 Blower Gasket 88127 2
38 Tinnerman Clip, 1/4-20 83340 8
39 Bolt, 1/4-20 x 3/4 83339 8
40 Conduit Assembly (5ft) 69578 2
41 Snap-disc, 140°F Adjustable 80388 1
N/S = Not Shown
Key Description Part # Qty
42 Snap-disc Box 68234 1
43 Conduit Assembly (1.5ft) 68231 1
44 Junction Box 25625 1
45 Insulation (5” x 5”) 25626 1
46 Junction Box Cover 80231 1
47 Rocker Switch C42373 1
48 Romex Cable Clamp 80362 1
49 Water Coil Access Cover 23819 1
IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN WARRANTY, COMPONENTS MUST BE REPLACED USING ORIGINAL
MANUFACTURERS PARTS PURCHASED THROUGH YOUR DEALER OR DIRECTLY FROM THE
APPLIANCE MANUFACTURER.
USE OF THIRD PARTY COMPONENTS WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

17
16DIKL FORCED DRAFT BLOWER - OPTIONAL KIT
1
435
2
Key Description Part # Qty
1 Drqft Blower Assembly 69190 1
2 FAD Bracket 69192 1
3 Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1” 83379 2
4 Lock Nut, 1/4-20 83261 2
5 Kep Nut, 10-24 83244 3
6 Honeywell Limit Control 80145 1
7 Fan Center 80130 1
8 Thermostat 80129 1
As mentioned earlier in this manual, a cold air return and/
or filter box should be incorporated into your furnace in-
stallation. A cold air return or filter box will increase the
life of your blowers and offer filtered distribution air for
your home. U.S. Stove offers the model UFB908 as an
option and can be purchased from your local dealer.
The UFB908 utilizes a standard 16” x 20” filter that can
be purchased from your local dealer or any hardware/
duct work supply store. When installing a UFB908, follow
the installation instructions supplied with the kit.
6
7
8
USSC offers a forced induced draft blower kit as an op-
tion to upgrade your Clayton furnace. Advantages of the
forced draft are quicker recovery and greater turbulence
inside the firebox for better mixing of fuel and oxygen.
And, it also allows you the furnace to be thermostatically
controlled.
You may purchase a forced draft kit from your local deal-
er or direct from U.S. Stove. If installing a 16DIKL, follow
the instructions supplied with the kit.
UFB908 COLD AIR RETURN / FILTER BOX - OPTIONAL KIT

18
DOMESTIC HOT WATER COIL - OPTIONAL KIT
DOMESTIC HOT WATER
COIL
REAR WALL OF
FIREBOX
TURN INSIDE NUTS UP
TO END OF THREADS
1. NUT
2. WASHER
3. GASKET
2
3
4
5
6
ACCESS
PANEL
1
This Furnace will accept the installation of a Domestic
Hot Water Coil Kit. The U.S. Stove kit is a 1124 Water
Coil and it may be purchased from your local dealer.
1. Remove the access panel on the rear of the furnace
enclosure.
2. With a utility knife, cut away a section of the insula-
tion (if equipped) directly behind the access panel.
3. Remove the cover plate from the rear of the furnace
firebox.
4. Place one nut on each end of the water coil and
thread each nut up to the end of the threads on the
coil.
5. Insert the coil through the holes from the inside of
the firebox. Install a gasket, washer and nut onto
each end of the water coil. Tighten the nuts down
securely to insure an air tight seal. The installation is
now ready to be plumbed to your existing hot water
system. Choose one of the three methods described
in the Hot Water Coil instructions.
6. Remove knockouts from the access panel and re-
attach to the furnace enclosure.
Have a qualified plumber connect your domestic hot wa-
ter pipe to the coil with the appropriate fittings.
DR6 - 6” DRAFT REGULATOR - OPTIONAL KIT
In the unlikely event that your furnace “overfires” (a con-
dition evidenced by elbows, stove pipes, and connectors
glowing red in appearance or otherwise discoloring),
then your installation is subject to excessive draft cre-
ated by either a chimney too tall or too great in diameter
in conjunction with its height, or some other factor of an
indeterminate cause. In this event, you should install a
barometric draft regulator. Such installation will preclude
any over-firing and/or any hazardous consequences of
potential overfiring.
Barometric draft regulators are generally available where
you purchased your stove or may be ordered directly
from United States Stove Company at a nominal charge.

19
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
Furnaces that are capable of burning coal usually will burn
both Bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is perhaps
the best coal fuel because of its long even burn time, high
heat output, and cleanliness which make it a good choice
for the home. However, keep in mind it is a much more dif-
ficult fuel to use, requires more care and patience, is not
so widely available, and is usually much more expensive
than Bituminous.
SIZE OF COAL
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will work in a coal furnace;
for best results we recommend large “nut” coal to small
“egg” coal (1-3/4” diameter to 4” diameter). When burn-
ing Anthracite, use “egg” or “broken” with sizes between
2-5/16” thru 4-3/8”. Note that it is important to the long
life of your stove to buy coal which has been sized and
cleaned. Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other min-
erals. Never use coal smaller than 1” or larger than 5” in
diameter. Small sized coal will smother the fire. Too large
a size of coal will not burn well.
STOVE OPERATION
All coal fires should be started with wood which will al-
low the fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. The best
ignition fires utilize dry pine or other resinous soft woods
as kindling, with hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to
increase the heat prior to addition of the coal.
Before starting the fire, open the stove pipe damper (if
epuipped), turn the thermostat to high, open the ash pit
door and feed door, place newspaper and finely split kin-
dling on the grate, light the paper, add larger hard wood
after the kindling is burning brightly. Caution: Never use
gasoline, lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or
other flammable liquids to start or freshen up a fire in any
heater. Place the larger pieces of wood on the fire so that
they are slightly separated and form a level for the addi-
tion of coal. It will take 10 to 20 minutes before this wood
is thoroughly ignited. Adding coal too soon will cut the air
supply and smother the fire.
BURNING BITUMINOUS
Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of
well established coals, start adding coal in layers allowing
each to ignite before adding more. Bituminous has a high
volatile content and, as a result, should be fired with the
“conical method” - with the highest portion of your fire bed
in the center of the firebox. The first flames will be long
and generally orange or yellow and produce quite a bit of
smoke. As the gases burn off the flames become shorter,
change color and produce less smoke.
Once the fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add coal to the cen-
ter of the firebox forming the cone. Burning in this fashion
allows heat to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence
created increases the burn efficiency. There will have to
be some experimenting with the individual setup as no two
chimney’s or installations are going to be the same. Just
remember to allow enough air to enter the firebox and keep
the stove pipe damper open so that volatiles are properly
burned. Before refueling, take the time to break up the
cone a little with a poker, especially if it has caked over or
formed a crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as this
increases the chances of forming clinkers. When shaking
the grate(s) be gentle. Just a few short movements - a
couple of “cranks” - is better than a lot of agitation. The
objective is to remove a small amount of the ashes without
disturbing the fire. Stop when you see a glow in the ashes
or the first red coals fall into the ash pan. Excessive shak-
ing wastes fuel and can expose the grate(s) to very high
temperatures which can cause warpage or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake
the fire and add coal, retaining the center cone. Once the
volatiles are burned off, close the feed door and adjust the
stove pipe damper, if epuipped. Then adjust the thermo-
stat to the desired heat level.
More MAINTENANCE will be needed with bituminous coal
than with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on heat-
ing surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent clean-
ing.
ANTHRACITE
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the
wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or cut off
the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal
is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a third layer
to bring the coal up to the top of the front liner (not above!).
Be sure to close the ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure to leave a red spot of
glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that the
fire has not been smothered and to help ignite the gases
given off by the new charge. A deep charge will give a
more even heat and a longer fire, but it may take one to
two hours before the whole bed is fully ignited.

20
BULLETIN RC454
A GUIDE TO BURNING COAL IN YOUR FURNACE
When the fire is well established and the room is becom-
ing warm, partially close the dampers. Some experiment-
ing will have to take place with each particular setting of
all dampers and controls as the chimney provides the draft
necessary to not only exhaust the smoke, but to pull com-
bustion air into the heater as well - and no two chimney’s
perform the same. Under ideal draft conditions, one should
be able to turn the secondary air supply below the feed
door (some models) to a near closed position - but leave
the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent the
fire from going out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce
the draft on the fire. With anthracite there will be short blue
flames above the coal, except when the fire is started or a
new charge is added. If, however, there is no flame then
the fire needs more air from the bottom (unless it is near
the end of its burn cycle and needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original
depth it is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open
the stove pipe damper and turn the thermostat damper to
high, which will allow the fire to burn off any accumulated
gases. Open the feed door, and with a small rake, hoe,
or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of the
firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too much. Next, add a
fresh charge to the back being careful not to seal off the
top. Close the feed door, but leave the spin damper (or
thermostat) open for a few minutes until the volatile gases
have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the
ashes each time you refuel the furnace. Experience will be
your best teacher.
BANKING THE FIRE
For extended operation, such as overnight, the fire will
need to be banked. To do so heap coal up along the sides
and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it
over a longer period of time. The intensity of the fire will
also be reduced without letting it go out. Follow the same
procedure as for refueling. If possible, avoid shaking, as a
heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the fire
during this time. After loading, let the fire establish itself for
about 30 minutes. Then close your damper and automatic
control to the point where the house does not become too
cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough
before retiring or leaving that you can make necessary ad-
justments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) open the ash
door and stove pipe damper and close the spin damper
under the door to get a good draft through the grate. (2)
place a thin layer of dry coal over the entire top of the
fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME!
(3) after the fresh coal has become well ignited shake the
grate (just a little), refuel.
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous
coal, sub bituminous, lignite or cannel coal (sometimes
called channel coal or candle coal).
NEVER burn wax or chemically impregnated sawdust logs
- their intended use is for fireplaces only.
NEVER fill the stove or furnace above the firebrick or cast
iron liner.