advanced scale models A-26 invader User manual

Page 1
The A-26 Invader, the fastest U.S. bomber of WWII, saw
multi-national military service from 1944 WWII through
1975 serving as everything from a bomber, to a target
drone tug, to a Vietnam-era counter-insurgence ghter.
In an unusual event, it saw a name change from A-26
to B-26 in 1948 when the B-26 Marauder was
decommissioned. The aircraft then saw some aircraft
switched back to the A-26 designation in 1965. In civilian
use its services ranged from a luxury corporate trans-
port to a reghter known as a Borate-Bomber seeing
service all the way through to 1985. Indeed the A-26
proved to be a versatile design that found usefullness
through four decades of service. Today only a few A-26
aircraft are yable. However, many remain in museums
throughout the world.
The ASM A-26 is an exciting replica of the original A-26.
Its impressive 2.3m (92 inch) wingspan and 1.6m (66 inch)
length results in a great ying model that is easy to see
and easy to y, yet because of its three-piece wing, the
model breaks down to t nicely into most vehicles. And
while we certainly do not intend for this model to be
own or built by the novice modeler, experienced modelers will nd the ASM model easy to assemble and versatile.
Made in China Kit Product Number ASM005
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
l Plywood, Balsa and Carbon Fibre Airframe with Moulded ABS Skins
lFactory-Covered Wings and Factory-Painted Fuselage, Nacelles and Cowls
l3-Piece Wing for Easy Transportation
lAccepts a Wide Range of Power Systems: Two-Stroke, Four-Stroke or BL Electric
lExceptional Flying Qualities for a Twin-Engine Scale Warbird
lStrong, Prebent Wire Landing Gear and Lightweight Stand-Off Scale Wheels
l Generous Hardware Package
lPhneumatic Retractable Landing Gear and Oleo Struts Available Separately
l
Wing Span: 2237mm (92 Inches)
l
Wing Area: 63.87dm2(990 Square Inches)
l
Length: 1676mm (66 Inches)
l
Weight RTF: 6.6~7.9kg (14.5~17.5 Pounds)
l
Wing Loading: 102~123gr/dm2(34~41 Ounces/Square Foot)
l
Functions: Elevator, Ailerons, Rudder, Flaps, and Throttles (Retracts Optional)
l
Radio Required: 5~6 Channel or More with Ball Bearing Servos
l
Engines Required: 2x .52 Two-Stroke / .52~.70 Four-Stroke / KMS 4120/05BL
ASM A-26 INVADER SPECIFICATIONS AND FEATURES
A Semi-Scale ARF R/C Model of the Douglas A-26 Invader
Wing Span: 21.3m (70ft) lWing Area: 50m2(540ft2) lLength: 15.6m (51ft 3in) lHeight: 5.6m (18ft 3in)
Gross Weight: 12,519kg (27,600lb) lMaximum Takeoff Weight: 15,900kg (35,000lb) lEngines: 2 x Pratt & Whitney 2000hp Radials
Maximum Speed: 570km/h (355mph) lCombat Range: 2,250km (1,400mi) lService Ceiling: 6,700m (22,000ft)
FULL-SCALE DOUGLAS A-26 INVADER SPECIFICATIONS

Page 2
CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION
In the USA
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
In the EU
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street

Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [email protected]
In Australia
Model Engines (Aust.) PTY. LTD.
P.O. Box 828, Noble Park, VIC., 3174
www.modelengines.com.au
SAFETY WARNINGS
THIS R/C MODEL IS DESIGNED FOR EXPERIENCED PILOTS ONLY! IFYOU ARE NOT AN EXPERIENCED PILOT
COMFORTABLE WITH FLYING HIGH-PERFORMANCE MODEL AIRCRAFT, DONOT CONTINUE.


YOU'RE EXPERIENCED IN BASIC MODEL ASSEMBLY TECHNIQUES AND AIRCRAFT SETUP. IF YOU HAVE
QUESTIONS DURING ASSEMBLY, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR USING THE CUSTOMER
SERVICE INFORMATION ABOVE.
This R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas
and preferably at a dedicated R/C ying site. We suggest having a qualied instructor carefully inspect your aircraft before its rst
ight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this aircraft, your radio control system and any other components
purchased separately.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE ASSEMBLY
l1x 5~6 Channel or More Radio Control System
l2 x .52~.70 4-Stroke Engines and 12 x 6" or 13 x 6" Propellers
l 7 x High-Torque, Standard Servos for Ailerons, Flaps, Elevators and Rudder/Steering
l2 x Standard Servos for Throttles
l4 x 12" Servo Extension Leads for Flaps and Throttles
l2 x 24" Servo Extension Leads for Ailerons
l 1 x Y-Harness with Electronic Reverser for Elevators
l 3 x Y-Harnesses (Standard) for Ailerons, Flaps and Throttles
l 1 x 5 Cell 1100mAH or Greater Capacity Receiver Battery
l2 x Remote Fueling Valves
lFive and Thirty Minute Epoxy
lThin and Thick C/A
lC/A Debonder and Rubbing Alcohol
l Assorted Modeling Tools (i.e., Modeling Knife, Screwdriver, Hex Wrenches, Etc.)
lAssorted Modeling Supplies (i.e., Sandpaper, Sanding Block, Aircraft Stand, Paper Towels, Etc.)
Optional Phneumatic Retract Installation
l1x ASM Retract Set and Control System for A-26 Invader (P/N ASM-ARS05)
l1x ASM Landing Gear Strut Set for A-26 Invader (P/N ASM-AVSS05)
l 1 x Standard Servo for Retract Air Control Valve
Because of the number of servos and servo extension leads used, we strongly suggest the use
of a 5 cell (6 Volt) 1100mAH or greater capacity receiver battery.
As an alternative to purchasing multiple servo extension leads, you may want to purchase a bulk
spool of servo wire and connectors and make your own custom-length extension leads.
For more information about using an electric power system, including the brushless motors, ESCs, LiPO batteries, and
the necessary steps for installation, please refer to the Brushless Power System Installation section on page 20.

Page 3
TIPS FROM THE PROS
lDuring the covering process, colour may sometimes smear slightly from the seams. If you see any smeared colours on the covering
material, it can be quickly removed by simply wiping it off with a paper towel and a small amount of acetone.
l Make sure to test-t the parts before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts t together properly before gluing them together.
lWhen gluing anything that has a smooth surface, it's important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. This
will allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material. Always remove the covering material from the
gluing surfaces prior to gluing the parts together.
lWhen cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not to
cut down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe.
lWe do not suggest storing your aircraft in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length
of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the
radio control system.
lEpoxy can be cleaned up before it dries using rubbing alcohol, and C/A can be cleaned up before it dries using C/A Debonder.
lMake a U-Shaped bend in one end of a long piece of scrap pushrod wire and use it to help pull the servo extension leads through
the wing panels.
lThe control horns are mounted to the control surfaces using wood screws. Even though the wood screws thread into plywood plates,
apply a small amount of 5 minute epoxy to each wood screw before you install it for extra security.
lWhen you plug servo extensions onto the servo leads, apply masking tape or heat-shrink tubing over the plugs to prevent any
chance of them pulling apart during assembly, or worse, during ight.
l Apply threadlocking compound to any screws that thread into metal. This will ensure the screws don't vibrate loose during ight.
lApply lightweight oil or petroleum jelly to the pivot point of the control surface hinges and the landing gear door hinges (if applicable)
to prevent epoxy from gluing the hinges solid.
l Before ying the aircraft for the rst time, make sure to go through and double-check everything. Check that all the hinges are
glued solidly, all bolts and screws are tight, etc. Double-check the operation of the landing gear, too, if using the optional retractable
landing gear.
ASSEMBLING THE TIGERCAT ARF
STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS AND FLAPS
qApply a thin coat of machine oil or petroleum jelly to the pivot point of
each of the three aileron hinges from one wing panel. Be careful not to get
any on the gluing surfaces of the hinges.
IMPORTANT The machine oil or petroleum jelly will prevent epoxy from
gluing the hinges solid when they're installed.
qApply a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy to one half of each hinge, then glue
the hinges into the ailerons.
IMPORTANT Install the hinges so that the centre of each hinge (the
pivot point) is even with the leading edge of the aileron.

Page 4
qAfter the epoxy sets up, apply a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy to the exposed
half of each hinge, then hinge the aileron to the wing.
IMPORTANT Push the aileron rmly into place to ensure that the
hinge gap is as tight as possible. The hinge gap should be no more
than 1mm (~1/32").
q Hinge the ap to the wing panel, using the same techniques that you used
to hinge the aileron to the wing panel. The only difference is that the ap is
hinged along the bottom.
q Repeat the previous procedures to hinge both the aileron and the ap
to the opposite wing panel.
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON AND FLAP SERVOS AND CONTROL LINKAGES
qPlug one 305mm (12") servo extension into each of your two aileron
servos.
IMPORTANT Secure the two plugs together using a piece of 10mm
(3/8") diameter heat-shrink tubing or a piece of masking tape.
qInstall one aileron servo into each wing panel. Use the preinstalled length
of thread to pull the servo extension leads through the wing panels.
IMPORTANT Both servo output shafts should be toward the leading
edge of the wing panels.
IMPORTANT Install the pushrod wires into the hole that is 19mm (3/4")
out from the centre of the servo horns and install the clevises into the fth
hole up from the base of the control horns.
qInstall the aileron control linkages, using the longer threaded pushrod
wires, two control horns, two clevises and four wood screws provided. The
control horns should be positioned 95mm (3-3/4") out from the inboard edge
of each aileron (measured at the hinge line).
See the important note at the top of the next page about positioning
the ap control horns.
q Install the ap servos and control linkages, using the same techniques
that you used to install the aileron servos and control linkages. Make sure
to see important note at the top of the next page prior to installing the
ap control horns.

Page 5
IMPORTANT The ap control horn on the left wing panel should be positioned approximately 137mm (5-3/8") out from the
inboard edge of the ap (measured at the hinge line) and the servo arm should point toward the root end. The control horn on the
right wing panel should be positioned approximately 154mm (6") out from the inboard edge of the ap (measured at the hinge
line) and the servo arm should point toward the wing tip. Having both servo arms point in the same direction will allow you to use
a standard Y-Harness and still make both servos move the same direction.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE WING JOINER TUBES
qSlide the aluminium wing joiner tube labeled "R-Outer" into the right outer
wing panel.
qLine up the outermost predrilled hole in the aluminium tube with the
predrilled hole in the bottom of the wing panel, then carefully thread one
long self-tapping screw through the wing and into the aluminium wing joiner
tube. Tighten the screw gently to prevent crushing the wing.
qSlide the outer wing panel assembly onto the centre wing panel.
qFirmly push the outer wing panel against the centre wing panel, then
carefully thread one long self-tapping screw through the predrilled hole in
the centre wing panel and into the aluminium wing joiner tube. Again, tighten
the screw gently to prevent crushing the wing.
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE HORIZONTAL STABILISERS
qSlide the plywood stabiliser spar into the fuselage.
qMake sure that the two angled cuts are lined up with the fuselage sides,
then tack-glue the spar into the fuselage, using thin C/A.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the ends of the spar are angled up when
the spar is installed.
IMPORTANT The two aluminium wing joiner tubes are labeled "R-Outer" and "L-Outer" to indicate which side of the wing they
should be installed into. "Outer" indicates the end that should be installed in the outer wing panels.
qRepeat the previous procedures to install the second aluminium wing joiner tube and outer wing panel onto the centre wing
panel.
IMPORTANT The stabiliser panels will t properly only one way. If you slide the stabiliser panels onto the spar and there is a
gap between the top of the stabiliser panels and the fuselage, the stabiliser panels are upside down.
q Test-t and glue the two stabiliser panels to the fuselage, using 30 minute
epoxy. Make sure to rst sand away the paint from the gluing surfaces to
ensure a strong bond.
IMPORTANT So that the stabiliser panels t rmly up against the fuselage
sides, you may need to sand the ends of the spar slightly shorter.

Page 6
STEP 5: INSTALLING THE VERTICAL FIN
q Test-t and glue the vertical n to the fuselage, using 30 minute epoxy.
Again, make sure to rst sand away the paint from the gluing surfaces to
ensure a strong bond.
STEP 6: HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES
q Hinge the elevator halves, using the same techniques that you used to
hinge the ailerons and the aps.
IMPORTANT A plywood control horn mounting plate is installed in the bottom of each elevator half. Make sure that when you
hinge the elevator halves that the plywood mounting plates are toward the bottom.
STEP 7: HINGING THE RUDDER
q Test-t and glue the rudder torque rod into the leading edge of the rudder,
using 5 minute epoxy.
IMPORTANT Make sure to roughen the torque rod wire to ensure a
strong glue joint.
qCut the longer length of stranded pull-pull cable exactly in half.
qSecure one end of each cable to each side of the rudder torque rod tiller
arm, using two crimp collets.
IMPORTANT After squeezing the crimp collets down tightly, apply
a couple of drops of thin C/A to each crimp collet to provide an extra
measure of security.
qDrop the two pull-pull cables into the fuselage, then slide the torque rod
tiller arm down into the fuselage.
q Hinge the rudder to the vertical n, using the same techniques that you
used to hinge the elevator halves to the stabiliser halves.

Page 7
STEP 8: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SERVOS AND CONTROL LINKAGES
qInstall one elevator servo into each of the two elevator servo mounting
holes in the servo tray.
IMPORTANT Both servo output shafts should be toward the back of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT Install the clevis into the fth hole up from the base of the control horn.
qInstall one elevator pushrod into the fuselage, using one control horn, two
wood screws and one clevis provided. The control horn should be positioned
even with the inside edge of the elevator half (at the hinge line) and it should
be angled toward the fuselage to line up better with the pushrod wire.
IMPORTANT Install the clevis into the hole that is 19mm (3/4") out from
the centre of the servo horn.
qConnect the pushrod to the servo on the same side of the fuselage as
the control horn, using one clevis provided.
qRepeat the previous procedures to install the second elevator control
linkage assembly.
STEP 9: INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO AND CONTROL LINKAGE
qInstall the rudder servo onto the servo mounting blocks.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage.

Page 8
qAttach the cable from the left side of the rudder tiller arm to the threaded
coupler on the left side of the servo arm, then attach the length of cable from
the right side of the rudder tiller arm to the threaded coupler on the right
side of the servo arm, using the same techniques that you used to attach
the two cables to the rudder tiller arm.
IMPORTANT Make sure that both lengths of cable are pulled tight.
There should not be any slack in the cables.
qCheck the tension of the cables. To do this do the following: move the rudder control stick to one side. Let the control stick go and
check to see if the rudder returns to centre. Do this a couple of times in each direction. If the rudder does not return to centre, one or
both cables are too tight. You can adjust the tension of the cables by adjusting the clevises. Ideally, the cables should be as tight as
possible, while still allowing the rudder to return to centre. The cables should not have slack in them, yet they should not be so tight
that the linkage and/or the servo bind.
IMPORTANT Remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets.
STEP 10: INSTALLING THE ENGINES
qInstall two engine mounting beams onto one nacelle, using four socket-cap
screws and four washers provided. Make sure to space the engine mounting
beams the same width as your engine and notice that the engine mounting
beams are installed angled down.
IMPORTANT The engine mounting beams are adjustable to t the
width of different sized engines. Make sure when you adjust the width of
the engine mounting beams to t your engine that you keep the mounting
beams centred on the rewall.
114mm (4-1/2")
qThread one clevis onto two threaded couplers, then attach the clevises
into the holes that are 19mm (3/4") out from the centre of the servo horn.
qInstall the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's centred.
q Hold the rudder centred, using several pieces of masking tape.
qInstall your engine onto the engine mounting beams, using the four
machine screws, four at washers, four split washers and four hex nuts
provided.
IMPORTANT The front of the your engine's drive washer should be
114mm (4-1/2") in front of the rewall.
qRepeat the previous procedures to install your second engine onto the
other nacelle.
STEP 11: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVOS AND CONTROL LINKAGES
qWorking with the right-side nacelle for now, install one throttle servo into
the servo mounting hole in the servo tray.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the back of
the nacelle.

Page 9
q Mark and drill a hole through the rewall for the throttle pushrod wire,
then install the throttle pushrod wire onto your engine.
qDouble-check that the pushrod doesn't bind.
IMPORTANT You will need to make a shallow bend in the pushrod
wire so that it will line up with the servo arm and not interfere with the
bulkhead in front of the throttle servo.
qConnect the throttle pushrod wire to your servo horn, using the adjustable
connector provided. The servo arm should point away from the landing gear
mount, as shown.
IMPORTANT Apply a drop of thin C/A to the nut on the adjustable
pushrod connector to keep it from coming loose during ight.
qInstall the servo and the throttle control linkage assemby into the left-side
nacelle, using the same techniques that you used to install the throttle servo
and control linkage assembly into the right-side nacelle.
IMPORTANT Make sure that you install and connect both throttle control
linkages exactly the same way, so that both throttles will be synchronised
as closely as possible during ight.
IMPORTANT When you install the throttle control linkage assembly into the left-side nacelle in the next procedure, you will
notice that the pushrod wire crosses the nacelle at an angle. You will need to make a slight bend in the pushrod wire so that it won't
interfere with the fuel tank when it's installed later.
STEP 12: ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING THE FUEL TANKS
qAssemble each of the two fuel tank stopper assemblies, using one straight
tube and one 90º tube. The straight tube is the fuel pick-up tube and the 90º
tube is the vent tube.
IMPORTANT If you're using in-cowl fueling valves, one of the 90º tubes included with each fuel tank is not used. If you're not
using in-cowl fueling valves, use two 90º tubes per stopper assembly - one for the vent and the second for the ll tube.
IMPORTANT The fuel tanks are assembled and installed on their side. The side with the moulded lettering is the top of the fuel
tank. Make sure to assemble both fuel tanks with the vent tube toward the moulded lettering (up).
qInstall the stopper assemblies into the fuel tanks, making sure that the
90º vent tubes are positioned toward the top of the fuel tanks (toward the
moulded lettering).
IMPORTANT Double-check to make sure that the clunks can move
freely inside the fuel tanks.

Page 10
IMPORTANT To secure the fuel tanks in place, put a thick piece of foam rubber under the back of each fuel tank and glue one
strip of scrap balsa or light plywood over the top of each fuel tank and one strip of scrap balsa or light plywood against the back of
each fuel tank, then secure the front of each fuel tank to the bottom of the rewall box, using one nylon cable-tie each.
qInstall one fuel tank into each nacelle, making sure that the top of each fuel
tank is toward the top of each nacelle. The front of each fuel tank should t
into the predrilled hole in each rewall and the back of each fuel tank should
be angled down enough to clear the centre wing panel when the nacelles
are installed.
STEP 13: INSTALLING THE ENGINE COWLINGS
qInstall four cowl mounting brackets onto each nacelle, making sure that
the end of each bracket is 6mm (1/4") beyond the surface of the nacelles.
Use the sixteen smaller wood screws provided to secure the cowl mounting
brackets into place.
IMPORTANT Position each cowl mounting bracket directly opposite
the corners of the engine mounting boxes - approximately the 2 o'clock,
4 o'clock, 8 o'clock and 10 o'clock positions.
q Test-t and cut out each cowling for your engines and mufers. When aligned properly, the back edge of each cowling should
overlap the front of the nacelles 3mm (1/8") and the front of the cowlings should be centred around your engine's crankshaft.
+ For our four-stroke engine installation, we routed the mufers out the bottom centre of each cowling. If you're using two-stroke
engines, you'll need to use Pitt's style mufers.
IMPORTANT When you install the cowlings, the moulded radiator intake scoop should be toward the top of the nacelles.
qLocate and drill 4mm (5/32") diameter holes through each cowling for the
mounting screws.
qInstall a remote fueling valve into each cowling to make it easy to fuel
the aircraft, then install the cowlings onto the nacelles, using the eight large
wood screws provided.
STEP 14: INSTALLING THE FIXED MAIN LANDING GEAR
IMPORTANT This step details the installation of the xed main landing gear. If you will be installing the optional retractable
landing gear, please skip this step and refer to page 16 at this time.
qInstall one plywood main landing gear mounting plate onto the landing
gear mounting rails in each nacelle, using the eight large wood screws
provided.
IMPORTANT Make sure to line up the hole in the slot in each landing
gear mounting plate with the corresponding predrilled hole in each landing
gear mounting rail.

Page 11
IMPORTANT The coil in each landing gear wire should be toward the
back of the nacelles.
qInsert the landing gear wires into the mounting slots and secure them
into place, using the four landing gear mounting straps and eight small wood
screws provided.
qSlide one nylon spacer onto each axle, then install the wheels, using the
two wheel collars and two grub screws provided.
STEP 15: INSTALLING THE FIXED NOSE LANDING GEAR
IMPORTANT This step details the installation of the xed nose landing gear. If you will be installing the optional retractable
landing gear, please skip this step and refer to page 16 at this time.
qInstall the nose gear onto the nose gear mounting rails in the fuselage,
using the four large wood screws provided. The two rear holes in the nose
gear mounting plate should be aligned with the two rear predilled holes in
the mounting rails. You will need to drill two pilot holes through the mounting
rails for the two forward mounting holes.
qInstall the wheel, using the nylon spacer, wheel collar and grub screw
provided.
STEP 16: INSTALLING THE STEERING CONTROL LINKAGE
qCut the remaining length of stranded pull-pull cable exactly in half.
qSecure one end of each cable to each adjustable control horn on the
nose gear, using two crimp collets. Use the same techniques that you used
to secure the cables to the rudder tiller arm.
IMPORTANT After squeezing the crimp collets down tight, apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to each crimp collet to provide
an extra measure of security.
qInstall the steering rod assembly onto the nose gear strut, using the two
hex nuts and two adjustable links provided.
qMount the strut assembly to the nose gear mounting plate, using the two
at washers and the socket-cap screw provided. Install one at washer on
each side of the mounting plate and tighten the socket-cap screw rmly.
IMPORTANT With the socket-cap screw tightened rmly, the strut
assembly should be able to rotate without binding or excessive play.

Page 12
qCentre both the nose gear and the rudder servo arm, then connect the two
cables to the inner hole in each servo arm, using the two threaded couplers,
two crimp collets and two clevises provided. Use the same techniques that
you used to install the rudder cables to the servo arms.
STEP 16: INSTALLING THE COCKPIT FLOORS AND GLASS
qAlign and install the front upper piece of fuselage glass to the fuselage,
using the six small wood screws provided.
q Test-t and tack glue the longer of the two cockpit oor pieces to the top
of the two plywood support rails
q Test-t and glue the piece of fuselage glass to the inside of the fuselage,
making sure not to get any glue on the visible parts of the glass.
q Test t and glue the moulded dashboard to the underside of the fuselage,
making sure to line up the moulded line in the top of the dashboard with the
front of the cockpit opening.
q Test-t and tack glue the remaining cockpit oor to the top of the two
plywood support rails
q Test-t and glue the piece of fuselage glass to the inside of the fuselage,
making sure not to get any glue on the visible parts of the glass.
IMPORTANT Before installing the cockpit glass in the next procedure, you will need to trim the base of the cockpit glass to t around
the sides of the dashboard.
IMPORTANT This step details the installation of the cockpit oors and glass. If you are installing the optional landing gear
doors, along with the optional retractable landing gear, do not install the cockpit oors and glass until after installing the nose gear
landing gear door assemblies and the air tank. Having access through the fuselage to install these parts is helpful. Please refer to
pages 16-19 to install the air-control valve, the air tank and the landing gear doors at this time. Once completed, refer back to this
step to install the cockpit oors and glass.
PRO TIP When you install the two cockpit oors, we suggest only tack-gluing them into place so that they can be easily removed
in case you need access below them for maintenance in the future.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the cables are adjusted tautly, but not so tight that they put strain on the servo or nose gear. Also, make
sure to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets.
qAlign and glue the front lower piece of fuselage glass to the inside of the fuselage, making sure not to get any glue on the visible
parts of the glass.

Page 13
qMount the centre wing panel onto the fuselage, using the two socket-cap screws and two washers provided.
STEP 17: INSTALLING THE CENTRE WING PANEL
IMPORTANT Below we describe the layout of the servo extensions. We've done it in a way to make it more convenient when
assembling the aircraft. All the servo leads feed into the fuselage, where the receiver will be located. The servo leads then run through
the centre wing panel and into each of the nacelles to plug into the throttle servos. Other servo leads run through the centre wing
panel and out the tips to plug into the aileron and the ap servos. This allows easy plug-in installation of all the servo leads when
assembling the nacelles, fuselage and the outer wing panels. All the servo extension leads stay in the centre wing panel.
q Holes are precut in the bottom of the centre wing panel to run your servo extension leads through. The hole in the top of the centre
wing panel is for the optional retract air lines. Run the servo extensions through the centre wing panel as listed below:
Throttles: One Y-Harness and two 305mm (12") extensions from the centre hole to the outer holes
Ailerons: One Y-Harness and two 305mm (12") extensions from the centre hole to the tips
Flaps: One Y-Harness and two 305mm (12") extensions from the centre hole to the tips
STEP 18: INSTALLING THE HATCH COVER
qCut a slot through the top front of the hatch cover for the latch handle,
then drill a hole for the latch pin through the plywood support bulkhead
5mm (1/4") down from the top of the hatch cover. Make sure that the slot
and hole are both centred at the top of the hatch cover.
IMPORTANT The hatch cover is held in place using two hatch latches. One is installed in the front of the hatch cover and
the other is installed in the fuselage, at the back of the hatch cover.
q Check the t for smooth operation, then glue the hatch latch to the inside of
the hatch cover, making sure not to get any glue in the latch mechanism.
qGlue each of the two dowels into the machine gun turret, then secure the
machine gun turret to the hatch cover, using the wood screw provided.
qInstall the second hatch latch into the top of the fuselage (at the back of
the hatch cover), using the same techniques that you used to install the rst
hatch latch into the top of the hatch cover.

Page 14
qLocate the positions of the latch pins onto the forward wing mounting
bulkhead on the fuselage and the rear hatch cover support, then drill holes
through the bulkhead and the hatch cover support for the pins to slide into.
qInstall the hatch cover and double-check that the hatch latches hold the
hatch cover securely in place.
STEP 19: INSTALLING THE NACELLES
IMPORTANT Each nacelle is secured to the centre wing panel, using two socket-cap screws and two at washers. One longer
socket-cap screw is installed up through the bottom of the nacelle and into the bottom of the centre wing panel and the second
shorter socket-cap screw is installed through the front of the nacelle and into the leading edge of the centre wing panel.
In order to install the socket-cap screw at the front of each nacelle, you must remove the engine cowlings rst. If possible, we
suggest leaving the nacelles attached to the centre wing panel during transport and storage.
Blind nuts are preinstalled in the wing to accept the socket-cap screws.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the throttle servo leads and/or extensions are not pinched between the centre wing panel and the
nacelles.
STEP 20: FINAL ASSEMBLY
qInstall your airborne equipment (battery, receiver and switch) into the fuselage. If you need to mount your battery in the nose to
balance the aircraft, mount the battery on the preinstalled plywood mounting plate.
+We ran the receiver aerial out the bottom of the fuselage and secured it to the back of the fuselage, using clear tape.
qInstall your propeller and spinner nut onto each engine, making sure to balance the propellers before installing them.
qConnect the servo extension leads and mount the outer wing panels to the centre wing panel.
qPlug the throttle servo lead from each nacelle into the servo extensions in
the centre wing panel, then install each nacelle onto the centre wing panel,
using the four socket-cap screws and four at washers provided.
IMPORTANT The two shorter socket-cap screws are installed into the
leading edge and the two longer socket-cap screws are installed into the
bottom of the centre wing panel.
IMPORTANT If you have installed the optional landing gear doors, you may need to remove the actuator arms from the main
landing gear doors so that the actuator plate can be pushed up far enough to clear the wing and allow the nacelle to be slid onto
the wing.

Page 15
BALANCING, CONTROL THROWS AND FLYING TIPS
Ailerons: 13mm~16mm (1/2"~5/8") Up and Down
Elevator: 16mm~22mm (5/8"~7/8") Up and Down
THE CONTROL THROWS ARE MEASURED FROM THE WIDEST POINT OF THE CONTROL SURFACES
The Centre of Gravity (C/G or Balance Point) is 102mm (4") back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the sides
of the fuselage. The C/G can be moved fore or aft to change the ight characteristics of the aircraft; however, the C/G should
never be more than 114mm (4-1/2") back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.
BALANCE POINT
IMPORTANT If you have installed the optional retractable landing gear, it's important to make sure that you balance the aircraft
with the landing gear retracted.
CONTROL THROWS
Rudder: 25mm~41mm (1"~1-5/8") Right and Left
Flaps: 50mm (2") Down
lIf you're using a brushless power system and have followed the recommendations for parts and mounting locations, you may need
to add approximately 12 ounces of nose weight to balance the aircraft. This is because the LiPO batteries must be mounted in the
fuel tank compartments and can't be moved any farther forward This added weight is no problem and does not affect the ying quality
of the aircraft.
lWith full aps on landing, you may nd that you need a little more elevator input than the 22mm (7/8") recommended.
lWe suggest using low-rate rudder on takeoff.
lBecause the landing gear retracts rearward, there will be a change in the aircraft's trim when the landing gear cycles up and down.
While the change in trim is small, it is noticeable and you should be aware of it.
l When you deploy the aps, the aircraft will have a tendency to balloon upward and will require some down elevator trim to
counteract this. We suggest the rst few times that you deploy the aps at altitude until you are familiar with the ight characteristics
of the aircraft with aps down. You may want to program elevator/ap mixing in your transmitter so that the required amount of down
elevator is automatically commanded when you deploy the aps.
FLYING TIPS
OPTIONAL RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR AND LANDING GEAR DOORS INSTALLATION BEGINS ON THE NEXT PAGE
OPTIONAL BRUSHLESS ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM INSTALLATION BEGINS ON PAGE 20

Page 16
INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
qInstall the two main gear struts into two retracts, making sure that the
struts are lined up straight and that the scissor links are toward the back of
the retracts. Tighten the large socket-cap screw and the small grub screw in
the side of each retract to lock the struts rmly into place.
qInstall one axle into each main gear strut, making sure to make one right
and one left assembly.
qInstall one retract assembly onto the landing gear mounting rails in each
nacelle, using the eight large wood screws provided. Notice that the air
cylinders are positioned toward the front of the nacelles and that the scissor
links are toward the back of the nacelles.
STEP 1: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR RETRACT ASSEMBLIES
STEP 2: INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR RETRACT ASSEMBLY
qInstall the nose gear strut into the remaining retract, making sure that the
nose gear strut is pushed down rmly and that the scissor link is toward the
rear of the retract. Tighten the large socket-cap screw against the nose gear
strut, then back it off slightly. The nose gear strut should be held in place
securely, yet be able to rotate smoothly.
qInstall the retract assembly onto the landing gear mounting rails in the
fuselage, using the four large wood screws provided.
qInstall the nose gear wheel, using the wheel collar and grub screw provided, then install the pull-pull steering cables by following
the procedures in step 16 on pages 11-12.
IMPORTANT Notice that the axle strut hubs are offset so that when the wheels are installed, they won't hit the side of the struts.
Make sure to install the axles toward the offset side of the strut hubs.
IMPORTANT Make sure to use the wheels and the wheel collars packaged with the retractable landing gear and not the ones
included with the aircraft kit. The aircraft kit wheels and wheel collars will not t the retract axles.
IMPORTANT Since you can't tighten the socket-cap screw up against the nose gear strut, we suggest applying threadlock to the
socket-cap screw to keep it from vibrating out during ight.
qInstall the two main gear wheels, using the two wheel collars and two grub screws provided.
+ Do not tighten the grub screw in the side of the retract. The grub screw should be ush with the side of the strut mounting block,
though, so that it won't cause interference when the retract is retracted.

Page 17
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE AIR TANK AND FILL VALVE
qSlide the air tank into the plywood mounts inside the fuselage, then secure
it into place using a few dabs of silicone sealant.
q Install the ll valve onto the fuselage side (or the fuselage bottom), making
sure to tighten the mounting nuts securely.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE AIR CONTROL VALVE
qInstall your air control valve servo and the air control valve to the centre
wing panel, using the plywood mounting plate, threaded pushrod wire, clevis
and four wood screws provided.
+Note the direction of the servo output shaft. It should be toward the
trailing edge of the wing and the air control valve should be installed on the
left side of the wing's centreline.
STEP 5: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR LANDING GEAR DOORS
qWorking with one pair of main landing gear doors for now, cut away the
material from below the inside of the two precut notches, so that the hinges
can be glued ush against the inside of the landing gear doors.
qGlue two hinges to the inside of each landing gear door, making sure that
the middle of each hinge pivot point is centred with the edge of the landing
gear doors.
qGlue one balsa block underneath each hinge mounting location on the
matching nacelle, then drill a 3mm (1/8") diameter hole into the nacelle and
through the balsa blocks for the landing gear door hinges.
IMPORTANT Make sure to position the holes so that the edge of each
landing gear door will be ush with the outside edge of the nacelle. The
holes will need to be drilled right up against the edge of the nacelle.
q Connect the air lines from the retracts, air tank and ll valve to the air
control valve, using the diagram at left. Use quick-connectors on the air lines
to make it easy to connect the air lines when assembling the aircraft.
IMPORTANT The air source is connected to the middle nipple on the
air control valve.
The outer nipples on the air control valve are for the UP and DOWN air
lines. It does not matter which one is used for which purpose. The only
effect is that it changes which position is up and which position is down
(which can be changed to the pilot's preference by reversing the retract
switch on the transmitter).
The UP and DOWN air lines are connected with "T" Fittings.

Page 18
q Test-t and hinge the main landing gear doors to the nacelle. When aligned
properly, the main landing gear doors should be ush with the nacelle when
closed and they should pivot freely.
IMPORTANT You will need to cut shallow notches over the four holes that
you drilled in the nacelle to recess the hinges, so that the bottom edges of
the main landing gear doors can be mounted ush with the nacelle.
IMPORTANT After hinging the main landing gear doors, close both main landing gear doors and check the t along the centreline.
You may have to trim the outer edge of one or both main landing gear doors, so that they don't overlap each other when closed.
qRepeat the previous procedures to hinge the remaining two main landing gear doors onto the other nacelle.
STEP 6: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR LANDING GEAR DOOR ACTUATOR PLATES
IMPORTANT Three actuator plates and three actuator wire assemblies are provided. All three actuator plates are the same;
however, there are two large actuator wire assemblies and one small actuator wire assembly. The larger actuator wire assemblies
are used for the main landing gear doors.
qGlue the hinge onto the main landing gear actuator plate into the precut
slot in the plywood former in the back of one nacelle, making sure that the
ends of the actuator wire assembly are toward the landing gear doors.
qInstall one hinge onto the top of one main landing gear actuator plate,
using the two small wood screws provided.
qGlue the pivot bearing on one large prebent actuator wire assembly onto
the opposite end of the top of the actuator plate.
IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the two ends of the actuator wire
assembly when installed.
qGlue one actuator horn onto the inside of each main landing gear door.
When positioned properly, the centre of each actuator horn should be 117mm
(4-5/8") in front of the back edge of the main landing gear doors and the top
edge of the actuator horn should be 8mm (5/16") down from the outer edge
of the main landing gear doors.
IMPORTANT Note that each actuator horn should be installed in the
down position.
qSlide the two ends of the actuator wire assembly into each actuator horn,
then repeat the previous procedures to install the second main landing gear
door actuator assembly into the other nacelle
IMPORTANT See the next page for information on ne-tuning the operation
of the main landing gear doors.

Page 19
STEP 7: INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR LANDING GEAR DOORS
qCut two 3mm (1/8") square notches in both edges of the landing gear
opening, using the landing gear doors themselves to position the notches
so that they are aligned with the precut notches in the landing gear doors.
qDrill one 3mm (1/8") diameter hole through the centre of each precut
notch in both landing gear doors.
IMPORTANT Drill the holes at a 45º angle so that when the hinges are
installed, the middle of each hinge pivot point is centred with the outside
edge of the landing gear doors.
qGlue two hinges to each landing gear door, making sure that the middle
of each hinge pivot point is centred with the outside edge of the landing gear
doors.
qAfter the glue cures, cut the excess hinge material from the inside of the
landing gear doors.
qGlue one balsa block underneath each hinge mounting location on the
fuselage, then drill a 3mm (1/8") diameter hole through the balsa blocks for
the landing gear door hinges.
IMPORTANT As with the landing gear doors, make sure to drill the holes
through the balsa blocks at a 45º angle.
q Test-t and hinge the nose landing gear doors to the fuselage. When
aligned properly, the landing gear doors should be ush with the fuselage
when closed and they should pivot freely.
IMPORTANT After hinging the nose landing gear doors, close both landing gear doors and check the t along the centreline. You
may have to trim the outer edge of one or both landing gear doors, so that they don't overlap each other when closed.
STEP 8: INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR LANDING GEAR DOOR ACTUATOR PLATE
qInstall the hinge and actuator wire assembly onto the remaining actuator plate, using the same techniques that you used to install
the hinges and actuator wire assemblies on the other two actuator plates.

Page 20
IMPORTANT You can ne-tune the operation of both the main gear and the nose gear landing gear doors using several different
methods. If one or both of the landing gear doors need to be opened more when the landing gear is down, carefully bend one or
both actuator assembly wires apart. If one or both landing gear doors don't close completely when the landing gear is retracted,
bend one or both actuator wires shorter where they attach to the actuator horns.
qInstall the actuator plate assembly and the two actuator horns, using the
same tecniques that you used to install the actuator assemblies and actuator
horns for the main landing gear doors.
IMPORTANT The actuator plate assembly is hinged to the forward bulkhead
and the two actuator horns should be mounted 35mm (1-3/8") in front of the
back edge of the nose landing gear doors and 8mm (5/16") down from the
outer edge of the nose landing gear doors.
INSTALLING AN OPTIONAL BRUSHLESS POWER SYSTEM
The A-26 Invader is an excellent platform for electric power. In this section, we list the power system that we suggest, along with
photographs showing the basic installation of the motors, electronic speed controls and batteries. We have performed extensive ight
testing using the suggested power system and have found it to y the aircraft amazingly well. If you decide to use different brands of
products, please make sure the specic products that you use are comparable in specication to what we suggest. Using anything
too far outside of our specications can result in poor performance.
l2 x KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner Motors
l2 x Castle Creations Phoenix 60 Amp Brushless Electronic Speed Controls
l2 x Impulse Power 4 Cell 11.1 Volt 4000mAH LiPO Batteries
l8 x Aluminium Motor Mounting Posts (4-40 Threaded Rods, Lock Nuts, Aluminium Tubing and Heavy Duty Washers)
l2 x APC 13 x 6 Two-Blade Propellers or 12 x 6 Three-Blade Propellers
l4 x Xtra 4mm Gold Connector Sets
l2 x ASM Hatch Latches
qInstall each of your two brushless motors, using four aluminium motor mounting posts.
To line up your motors, simply hold each motor up to the rewall and centre it, then mark the four mounting hole locations. When
installed.
The drive washer on each propeller shaft should be 114mm (4-1/2") in front of the rewall. You will need to cut your motor mounting
posts to the correct length to achieve the proper spacing between the drive shaft and the rewall. Different brands of motors are different
lengths, therefore require different length motor mounting posts. Mounting posts can be made from 4-40 threaded rod, aluminium
rod, heavy duty washers and lock nuts.