Ashley 1330E Quick start guide

Report No. 0215WH056E
0215WH056S
Owner’s Installation and Operation Manual
Model 1330E
United States Stove Company
227 Industrial Park Rd.
South Pittsburg, TN 37380 852816-4804F
Installation is to be preformed by a
qualied installer.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This unit is certied UL-391(R2014)
U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY
Certied to comply with the 2016 particulate
emission standards. Not approved for sale after
May 15, 2020
Wood Only Central Furnace

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CAUTION:
• Power source not controlled by furnace main disconnect.
• Respect all local and national codes when installing this unit.
• This unit is not to be connected to a chimney ue serving another appliance.
• This unit is designed to burn solid hardwood only.
40.65
21.00
26-3/4
32-7/8
40
1.80

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Combustible: Wood
Flue Pipe Diameter: 6” (153mm)
Flue Pipe Type: (Standard,
Single Wall, or Double Wall): Black or Blued Steel 2100°F (650°C) Class “A”
Minimum Chimney Height: 12’
Maximum Log Length: 20”
Electrical 120V, 60Hz, 2.6A
Dimensions
Combustion Chamber:
Width x Depth: 12.8” X 20.3”
Volume:
Cubic Feet: 3.0 cubic feet
Door Opening: Width x Height: 11.6” X 11.5”
Weight (lbs): 350lbs
Specications
CONGRATULATIONS!
You’ve purchased a heater from North America’s oldest manufacturer of wood burning products.
By heating with wood you’re helping to CONSERVE ENERGY!
Wood is our only Renewable Energy Resource. Please do your part to preserve our wood supply. Plant at least
one tree each year. Future generations will thank you.
This manual describes the installation and operation of the Ashley, 1330E wood
heater. This heater meets the 2016 U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s
emission limits for wood heaters sold after May 15, 2016. Under specic EPA
test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at a rate of 18,850
– 56,000 BTU/hr. This heater achieved a particulate emissions rate of 0.509 lb/
mmBtu when tested to method CSA B415.1-10 (*and an overall efciency of
60.01 %). The maximum overall heat output of this heater was tested to be
89,000 Btu/hr.
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal
regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual.
The operation of this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with the owner’s manual will void you warranty and
is also against federal regulations.
This heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when
burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
This wood heater needs periodic inspection and repair for proper operation. It is against federal regulations to
operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.
0215WH056E

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Safety
• WARNING: Do not operate with fuel loading or ash removal doors open.
• Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.
• WARNING DANGER: Risk of re or explosion. Do not burn garbage, gasoline, naphtha, motor oil, or other
inappropriate materials. Do not use chemicals or uids to start the re.
• WARNING: Risk of re. Do not operate with ue draft exceeding .060” water column/14.93 Pascals. Do not
operate with fuel loading and ash removal doors open. Do not store fuel or other combustible materials
within marked installation clearances. Inspect and clean ues and chimney regularly.
• CAUTION: Hot surfaces. Keep children away. Do not touch during operation.
• The heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney must be cleaned regularly to remove accumulated creosote
and ash. Ensure that the heat exchanger, ue pipe, and chimney are cleaned at the end of the heating
season to minimize corrosion during the summer months. The appliance, ue pipe, and chimney must be
kept in good condition. These instructions also apply to a draft inducer if used. To prevent ame or smoke
spillage, the slide bafe must be pulled out and the fuel loading door left cracked for 10 seconds prior to
opening door fully. Load fuel carefully or damage may result.
• Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause skin burns.
• Do not use chemicals or uids to ignite the re.
• Do not leave the furnace unattended when the door is slightly opened.
• Do not burn garbage, ammable uid such as gasoline, naphtha or motor oil.
• Always close the door after the ignition.
• Consult your municipal building department or re ofcials about permits, restrictions and installations
requirements in your area.
• INSPECT FLUE PIPES, FLUE PIPE JOINTS, AND FLUE PIPE SEALS REGULARLY TO ENSURE THAT SMOKE AND FLUE
GASES ARE NOT DRAWN INTO, AND CIRCULATED BY, THE AIR-CIRCULATION SYSTEM.
• CAUTION: CLEAN OUT OF THE HEAT EXCHANGER, FLUE PIPE CHIMNEY, AND DRAFT INDUCER, IF USED, IS
ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT AT THE END OF THE HEATING SEASON TO MINIMIZE CORROSION DURING THE SUMMER
MONTHS, CAUSED BY ACCUMULATED ASH.

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Unpacking And Preassemble
UNPACKING
1. Remove all packaging from the furnace.
2. Remove the supplied parts from the furnace.
BRICK ALIGNMENT
Inspect for any damage. Ensure that the bricks and ash plug are positioned correctly and not broken (see
illustration for proper brick arrangement).
TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
The following is a list of tools and materials needed to install your furnace.
• 7/16” socket wrench.
• 5/16” socket (Best if using a power drill and a socket bit).
• Pair of pliers or channel-locks.
• Power drill with an 1/8” drill bit to install sheet metal screws into connector pipe..
• Sheet metal screws.
• Non-combustible oor protector as specied in this manual.
• All chimney and chimney connector components required for your particular venting installation..
• Electrical wiring tools and supplies.
• Ductwork for supply and return air.
Proper Fire Brick Alignment
1
2
3
6
5
4

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Furnace Installation
Dimension Inch mm
ABackwall to Furnace 28 712
BSidewall to Furnace 13 331
CSidewall to Flue 21 534
DBackwall to Flue 18 458
ESupply Duct (rst 6 feet) 6 153
FSupply Duct (after rst 6 feet) 1 26
GMinimum Duct height 9.5 242
H Top of Door to Ceiling 48 1220
JMinimum Ceiling Height 77 1956
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
The installation of this furnace includes supplying electrical power, return (fresh air) ductwork, and supply air
ductwork. This furnace may be installed in two different congurations.
1. Stand alone wood furnace
2. Add-on wood furnace
See kit installation section in this manual to ensure proper assembly, installation and operation of your new
furnace.
If installing in an area with a fan it should not be allowed to create negative pressure in the room where the
furnace is installed.
LOCATING YOUR FURNACE (INSURE THAT THE REQUIRED MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES ARE MAINTAINED)
Your furnace must be installed as shown in this manual and in compliance with all local and national codes.
It is of the utmost importance that the clearances to combustible materials be strictly adhered to during
installation of the furnace. Refer to the table and diagrams below for minimum required clearances.
Back wall
Side wall Side wall
Ceiling
Floor Protector
C
B
A
ML
N
K
E
F
G
H
J
D
Q
O
R
P
SS
Back wall
Side wall
Side wall
Ceiling
Floor Protector
C
B
A
ML
N
K
E
F
G
H
J
D
Q
O
R
P
SS
CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLESCLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES

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MAINTENANCE CLEARANCES
Your furnace has recommended minimum maintenance clearance requirements. These clearances insure that
there is adequate room to preform maintenance and service your furnace. DO NOT store fuel within the specied
clearances. See the table and diagram below to determine the clearances for your furnace.
Dimension Inch mm
KMaintenance Clearance (Front) 24 610
L Maintenance Clearance (Left) 24 610
MMaintenance Clearance (Right) 24 610
NMaintenance Clearance (Rear) 36 915
Back wall
Side wall Side wall
Ceiling
Floor Protector
C
B
A
ML
N
K
E
F
G
H
J
D
Q
O
R
P
SS
Back wall
Side wall Side wall
Ceiling
Floor Protector
C
B
A
ML
N
K
E
F
G
H
J
D
Q
O
R
P
SS
MAINTENANCE CLEARANCE
FLOOR PROTECTOR REQUIREMENTS
FLOOR PROTECTOR
The furnace must be placed on solid concrete, solid masonry, or when installed on a combustible oor, on a oor
protector. The oor protector is required to provide heat, live ember, and ash protection and must be of a non-
combustible, continuous solid surface to protect against inltration of live embers and ash. Floor protection must
have and R-Value of at least 1.4. Refer to oor protector manufacturer’s instructions for installation directions.
The oor protector or non combustible oor must extend under the furnace and beyond each side as shown
below.
Dimension Inch mm
O* Front 16 407
P Flue rear 2 51
Q** Left 8 204
R** Right 8 204
S Flue Side 2 51

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Duct Work Installation
We strongly recommend that the hot air ductwork be installed by a home heating specialist. If doing the
installation yourself, before you decide which installation will best suit your needs, consult a qualied heating
technician and follow his recommendations as to the safest and most efcient method of installation.
This furnace can be installed in two ways, as a stand alone or parallel unit, with an existing furnace.
SUPPLY AIR (HOT AIR) PLENUM
The warm-air supply duct shall be constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.1. The plenums installed
to the furnace shall be constructed of metal in accordance with NFPA 90B, 2-1.3.
When installing this furnace the hot air plenum is to have a minimum height of 24” (610mm) if the top of the rst
vertical section is not ush with the top of the rst horizontal section of ductwork. If the top of the plenum is ush
with the top of the rst horizontal section of ductwork then the minium height is 15” (381mm).
RETURN AIR (FRESH AIR)
The return (fresh) air intake on the furnace is on the rear of the unit. The ductwork must be mechanically attached
to the unit or UFB908 blower box with sheet metal screws to ensure a proper operation.
STAND ALONE INSTALLATION
If installing this furnace as a stand alone unit, ensure all local codes and all instructions in this manual are followed,
including clearance to combustibles, oor protector specications and safety warnings.
21”
6”
Supply Air (Hot Air) Duct Work Outlet Size
Supply Air Plenum Minimum
Height Of 24”
Supply Air Plenum With
Minimum Height Of 15”

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CENTRAL INSTALLATION
Air Filter Replacement

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Accessory Installation
THERMODISC
THERMODISC
COVER
4” ELECTRICAL
JUNCTION BOX
BLOWER
BLOWER GASKET CLIP NUTS
(Not used in the upper center hole)
ASSEMBLY OF FURNACE
Your furnace requires the following items to be assembled or installed
by the service person:
Blower and Blower Control
Electrical Connections
1. Remove all parts from the unit (blower, thermodisc, and all
wiring) and inspect for damage, including the rebrick as some
breakage could occur during shipment.
2. Install the thermodisc on rear of furnace cabinet with the two
screws provided. Mount the conduit assembly from the junction
box to the thermostat bracket. Crimp the two female terminals
to each of the wire leads. Plug the wires to the thermodisc. NOTE:
It does not matter which of the two wires plugs to which terminal
on the thermodisc.
3. Remove blower from cartons. Remove junction box cover.
Attach clip nuts as in gure shown. Install blower(s) and gasket(s
with 1/4"-20 x 3/4" bolts as shown.
4. Refer to the wiring diagram for instructions on how to properly
wire the components.
SMOKE CURTAIN
Using two 1/4-20 x 1-1/4”
Carriage bolts, two smoke
curtain clips, and two nuts,
attach the smoke curtain
in place above the fuel
feed door as shown. After
installation, the smoke curtain
should swing freely back into
the furnace.
DOOR LATCH INSTALLATION
Use the two included bolts and nuts to secure the handle to the stove as shown.
Note: Adjust the handle as needed to insure a proper seal.

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Electrical Installation
All electrical connections should be done by a qualied electrician
It is recommended to connect the furnace to its own 15 amp 120 Volt circuit from the house power supply
105°C
NOTE:Wire leads from the distribution blower are usually
BOTH BLACK. Makes no difference which leads from the
motor(s) connects to the corresponding leads coming out of
the conduit.

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Chimney Installation
CHIMNEY
Your wood furnace may be hooked up with a factory built or masonry chimney, matching the diameter of the
exhaust. If you are using a factory built chimney, it must comply with UL 103 or CSA-B365 standard; therefore
it must be a Type HT (2100°F). It is extremely important that it be installed according to the manufacturer’s
specications.
If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the specications of the
National Building Code. It must be lined with re clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with re cement.
(Round ues are the most efcient).
The interior diameter of the chimney ue must be identical to the furnace smoke exhaust. A ue which is too
small may cause draft problems, while a large ue favors rapid cooling of the gas, and hence the build-up of
creosote and the risk of chimney res. Note that it is the chimney and not the furnace which creates the draft
effect; your furnace’s performance is directly dependent on an adequate draft from your chimney.
Do not connect this unit to a chimney ue serving another appliance.
The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:
• It must rise above the roof at least 3’ (0.9m) from the uppermost point of contact.
• The exterior portion should be double or triple wall pipe to ensure proper draft.
• The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10’ (3.04m) distance by a
height of 2’ (0.6m).
• Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. The interior chimney will be
hotter than an exterior chimney that is being cooled by the ambient air outside the house. Therefore the gas
which circulates will cool slower, thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk of chimney res.
• The draft caused by the tendency for hot air to rise will be increased with an interior chimney.
• Using a re screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is not
obstructed thus blocking the draft, and it should be cleaned when used regularly.
IMPORTANCE OF PROPER DRAFT
Draft is the force which moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in your
chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions and other factors. Too
much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. Inadequate draft may cause back pufng into
the room and ‘plugging’ of the chimney. Inadequate draft will cause the appliance to leak smoke into the room
through appliance and chimney connector joints.
An uncontrollable burn or excessive temperature indicates excessive draft. Do not operate with the ue draft
exceeding .06 water column/14.93 Pascals. The draft can be checked with a draft gauge or manometer.
Take into account the chimney’s location to insure it is not too close to neighbors or in a valley which may cause
unhealthy or nuisance conditions.

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MASONRY CHIMNEY
Ensure that a masonry chimney meets the minimum standards of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)
by having it inspected by a professional. Make sure there are no cracks, loose mortar or other signs of deterioration
and blockage. Have the chimney cleaned before the furnace is installed and operated. When connecting the
furnace through a combustible wall to a masonry chimney, special methods are needed as explained in the
“Combustible Wall Chimney Connector Pass-Throughs” Section.

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COMBUSTIBLE WALL CHIMNEY CONNECTOR PASS-THROUGHS
Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm) brick
and a 5/8” (15.9 mm) minimum wall thickness clay liner,
construct a wall pass-through. The clay liner must conform
to ASTM C315 (Standard Specication for Clay Fire Linings)
or its equivalent. Keep a minimum of 12” (304.8 mm) of brick
masonry between the clay liner and wall combustibles. The
clay liner shall run from the brick masonry outer surface to
the inner surface of the chimney ue liner but not past the
inner surface. Firmly grout or cement the clay liner in place
to the chimney ue liner.
Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Using a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed,
factory-built Solid-Pak chimney section with insulation
of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build a wall pass-through with a
minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer wall of
the chimney length and wall combustibles. Use sheet metal
supports fastened securely to wall surfaces on all sides, to
maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air space. When fastening
supports to chimney length, do not penetrate the chimney
liner (the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney). The inner end
of the Solid-Pak chimney section shall be ush with the inside
of the masonry chimney ue, and sealed with a non-water
soluble refractory cement. Use this cement to also seal to
the brick masonry penetration.
Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Starting with a minimum 24 gauge (.024” [.61 mm])
6” (152.4 mm) metal chimney connector, and a minimum 24
gauge ventilated wall thimble which has two air channels of
1” (25.4 mm) each, construct a wall pass-through. There shall
be a minimum 6” (152.4) mm separation area containing
berglass insulation, from the outer surface of the wall thimble
to wall combustibles. Support the wall thimble, and cover
its opening with a 24-gauge minimum sheet metal support.
Maintain the 6” (152.4 mm) space. There should also be a
support sized to t and hold the metal chimney connector.
See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces
on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure the metal
chimney connector do not penetrate chimney ue liner.
Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Start with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney
section at least 12” (304 mm) long, with insulation of 1” (25.4
mm) or more, and an inside diameter of 8” (2 inches [51 mm]
larger than the 6” [152.4 mm] chimney connector). Use this
as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gauge single wall steel
chimney connector. Keep solid-pak section concentric with
and spaced 1” (25.4 mm) off the chimney connector by
way of sheet metal support plates at both ends of chimney
section. Cover opening with and support chimney section
on both sides with 24 gauge minimum sheet metal supports.
See that the supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces
on all sides. Make sure fasteners used to secure chimney ue
do not penetrate ue liner.
NOTES:
Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through the
wall pass-through system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner ue liner face. A chimney connector
shall not pass through an attic or roof space, closet or similar concealed space, or a oor, or ceiling.

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CHIMNEY CONNECTOR
Your chimney connector and chimney must have the same diameter as the furnace outlet. If this is not the case,
we recommend you contact your dealer in order to insure there will be no problem with the draft.
The furnace pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll steel with a minimum thickness of 0.021” or 0.53 mm. It
is strictly forbidden to use galvanized steel.
Your connector should be assembled in such a way that the male section (crimped end) of the pipe faces
down. Attach each of the sections to one another with three equidistant metal screws. Seal the joints with furnace
cement.
The pipe must be short and straight. All sections installed horizontally must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot, with
the upper end of the section toward the chimney. Any installation with a horizontal run of furnace pipe must
conform to NFPA 211. You may contact NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) and request the latest edition
of the NFPA Standard 211.
To insure a good draft, the total length of the furnace pipe should be at lease 12’ (3.67m). There should never
be more than two 90 degrees elbows in the smoke exhaust system. Installation of a “barometric draft stabilizer”
(replace register) on a smoke exhaust system is prohibited. Do not use with a ue damper. With a controlled
combustion wood furnaces the draft is regulated upon intake of the combustion air in the furnace and not at
the exhaust.
To
Appliance

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FACTORY BUILT CHIMNEY
When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed. You
must also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and install the ceiling support package or wall pass-through
and “T” section package, restops (where needed), insulation shield, roof ashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain
proper clearance to the structure as recommended by the manufacturer. The chimney must be the required
height above the roof or other obstructions for safety and proper draft operation.

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OPERATING THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY AIR SETTINGS
Primary air- is the driving air supply that feeds the re in the heater. This air is introduced through the damper in
the feed door to sustain the combustion.
Secondary air – is the air supply that is typically introduced above the re to effectively “re-burn” the smoke
created in the primary combustion before the exhaust gasses exit the stove. This air is preheated before being
injected into the heater so it can react with (re-burn) the smoke when they mix.
When increasing the amount of primary air supplied to the heater, the secondary should also be increased as
well to ensure a clean burn.
Start up: During Start-up the Primary and the Secondary air adjustments should be in the fully open or the “High”
setting positions. This allows for the maximum amount of combustion air during the initial start-up to insure the
fastest and cleanest start-up. These settings should remain open until the stove has heated up and an adequate
re has been established. Once the re is well established, both the primary and the secondary air settings can
be adjusted down to the desired heat setting. The primary and the secondary air mix inside the rebox to provide
a more efcient and cleaner burn. We encourage that you get to know your stove and how it reacts to adjusting
both the primary and the secondary air dampers so that you can achieve the best burn possible for the type of
wood and the draft situations in your particular installation.
AIR CONTROL’S
MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING
MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING
FULLY OPENED
Secondary Air Damper
FULLY OPENED
Primary Air Damper
FULLY CLOSED
Secondary Air Damper
FULLY CLOSED
Primary Air Damper
MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING
MAXIMUM BURN RATE SETTING
FULLY OPENED
Secondary Air Damper
FULLY OPENED
Primary Air Damper
FULLY CLOSED
Secondary Air Damper
FULLY CLOSED
Primary Air Damper
AIR CONTROL’S
Low Burn Rate High Burn Rate
Primary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open
Secondary Air Damper Fully Closed Fully Open
Operation

-18-
Operation
The top down method of re building is recommended for this appliance. After making sure that the stove air
intake controls are fully open (both air controls open to there maximum setting). Place the largest pieces of wood
on the bottom, laid in parallel and close together. Smaller pieces are placed in a second layer, crossways to the
rst. A third layer of still smaller pieces is laid crossways to the second, this time with some spaces between. Then
a fourth layer of loose, small kindling and twisted newspaper sheets tops off the pile.
Higher efciencies and lower emissions generally result when burning air dried seasoned hardwoods, as
compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut hardwoods.
DO NOT BURN:
1. Garbage;
2. Lawn clippings or yard waste;
3. Materials containing rubber, including tires;
4. Materials containing plastic;
5. Waste petroleum products, paints or paint
thinners, or asphalt products;
6. Materials containing asbestos;
7. Construction or demolition debris;
8. Railroad ties or pressure-treated wood;
9. Manure or animal remains;
10. Salt water driftwood or other previously salt water
saturated materials;
11. Unseasoned wood; or
12. Paper products, cardboard, plywood, or
particleboard. The prohibition against burning
these materials does not prohibit the use of re
starters made from paper, cardboard, saw dust,
wax and similar substances for the purpose of
starting a re in an affected wood heater.
Burning these materials may result in release of toxic fumes or render the heater ineffective and cause smoke.
Dead wood lying on the forest oor should be considered wet, and requires full seasoning time. Standing dead
wood can usually be considered to be about 2/3 seasoned. Splitting and stacking wood before it is stored
accelerates drying time. Storing wood on an elevated surface from the ground and under a cover or covered
area from rain or snow also accelerates drying time. A good indicator if wood is ready to burn is to check the
piece ends. If there are cracks radiating in all directions from the center then the wood should be dry enough
to burn. If your wood sizzles in the re, even though the surface is dry, it may not be fully cured, and should be
seasoned longer
Your furnace was designed to burn wood only; no other materials should be burned. Waste and other ammable
materials should not be burned in your furnace. DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE. DO NOT
BURN GARBAGE, GASOLINE, NAPTHA, ENGINE OIL, OR OTHER INAPPROPRIATE MATERIALS. Any type of wood may
be used in your furnace, but specic varieties have better energy yields than others. Please consult the following
table in order to make the best possible choice.
TYPE WEIGHT
(LBS. CU. FT., DRY) PER CORD EFFICIENCY RANKING SPLITS MILLIONS BTU’s/ CORD
Hickory 63 4500 1.0 Well 31.5
White Oak 48 4100 .9 Fair 28.6
Red Oak 46 3900 .8 Fair 27.4
Beech 45 3800 .7 Hard 26.8
Sugar Maple 44 3700 .6 Fair 26.2
Black Oak 43 3700 .6 Fair 25.6
Ash 42 3600 .5 Well 25.0
Yellow Birch 40 3400 .4 Hard 23.8
Red Maple 38 3200 .3 Fair 22.6
Paper Birch 37 3100 .3 Easy 22.1
Elm/
Sycamore 34 2900 .2 Very Difcult 20.1
Red Spruce 29 1800 .1 Easy 16.1
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you use DRY
WOOD only. The wood should have dried for 9
to 15 months, such that the humidity content (in
weight) is reduced below 20% of the weight of
the log. It is very important to keep in mind that
even if the wood has been cut for one, two or
even more years, it is not necessarily dry, if it has
been stored in poor conditions. Under extreme
conditions it may rot, instead of drying. This point
cannot be over stressed; the vast majority of the
problems related to the operation of a wood
furnace is caused by the fact that the wood used
was too damp or has dried in poor conditions.
These problems can be:
• Ignition problems
• Creosote build-up causing chimney res
• Low energy yield
• Blackened windows
• Incomplete log combustion
Smaller pieces of wood will dry faster. All logs exceeding 6” in diameter should be split. The wood should not be
stored directly on the ground. Air should circulate through the cord. A 24” to 48” air space should be left between
each row of logs, which should be placed in the sunniest location possible. The upper layer of wood should be
protected from the elements but not the sides.

-19-
Operation
NOTICE: To minimize the risk of smoke spillage when opening the door with a re in your furnace, crack
the door open no more than 1” and wait for at least 10 seconds before opening it more to allow pressure
stabilization inside the furnace.
TESTING YOUR WOOD
When the furnace is thoroughly warmed, place one piece of split wood (about ve inches in diameter) parallel
to the door on the bed of red embers.
Adjust all air controls to there maximum settings and close the door. If ignition of the piece is accomplished
within 90 seconds from the time if was placed in the furnace, your wood is correctly dried. If ignition takes longer,
your wood is damp.
If your wood hisses and water or vapor escapes at the ends of the piece, your wood is soaked or freshly cut.
Do not use this wood in your furnace. Large amounts of creosote could be deposited in your chimney, creating
potential conditions for a chimney re.
THE FIRST FIRES
The fresh paint on your furnace needs to be cured to preserve its quality. Once the fuel charge is properly
ignited, only burn small res in your furnace for the rst four hours of operation. Never open the air control’s more
than necessary to achieve a medium burn rate.
Make sure that there’s enough air circulation while curing the furnace. DO NOT connect your furnace to the
duct work during this curing process. The odors could be smelled during the 3 or 4 rst res. Never start your
furnace outside. You will not be able to see if you are over heating.
LIGHTING YOUR WOOD FURNACE
1. Make sure that your furnace has been installed as per the instructions outlined in this manual and the proper
power is supplied to it.
2. Open the fuel loading door.
3. Note: If there already is a bed of hot/glowing coals in the combustion chamber, proceed directly to the
Preheating step.
4. Place several pieces of small dry kindling in the front of the combustion chamber directly on the rebricks.
5. Lay a few twists of newspaper over the kindling.
6. Lay more dry kindling (crisscrossing) on top of the previous layers and possibly a few more twists of newspaper
if needed.
7. Light the lowest newspaper in the stack.
Note: In some draft situations you may be required to leave the door cracked no more than ½” only till a re is
established in the stack
No chemical product should be used to light the re.
PREHEATING YOUR WOOD FURNACE
1. Once the kindling is burning well or the glowing coal bed is stirred up, lay 2 or 3 pieces of well-seasoned
cordwood down so that the ame from the kindling re can circulate around the logs and close the door.
Note: You may need to add more kindling to help ignite the cordwood.
2. Before loading your furnace fully you will want a well-established re in the combustion chamber. This
typically takes 15-20 minutes.
HEATING WITH YOUR WOOD FURNACE
1. Spread the re and coals evenly towards the center of the combustion chamber before loading your
furnace fully or adding more wood.
2. Avoid overlling the combustion chamber. Air must be allowed to circulate freely through the upper portion
of the combustion chamber for the stove to perform best. Typically this would mean not to load your furnace
more than ¾ of the way up the door opening.
OPERATION
Controlled combustion is the most efcient technique for wood heating because it enables you to select the
type of combustion you want for each given situation. The wood will burn slowly if the wood furnace air intake
control’s are adjusted to reduce the oxygen supply in the combustion chamber to a minimum. On the other hand,
CAUTION: Never alter the “damper slide” or the adjustment range to increase ring for any reason. Doing so
could result in heater damage and will void your warranty.

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wood will burn quickly if the air control’s are adjusted to admit a larger quantity of oxygen in the combustion
chamber. Real operating conditions may give very different results than those obtained during testing according
to the species of wood used, its moisture content, the size and density of the pieces, the length of the chimney,
altitude and outside temperature.
RELOADING
Once you have obtained a good bed of embers, you should reload the unit. In order to do so, open the air
controls to maximum a few seconds prior to opening the furnace’s door. Then proceed by opening the door very
slowly. Then bring the red embers to the front of the furnace and reload the unit.
For optimal operation of your wood furnace, we recommend you to operate it with a wood load approximately
equivalent to the 3/4 of the height of re bricks.
It is important to note that wood combustion consumes ambient oxygen in the room. In the case of negative
pressure, it is a good idea to allow fresh air in the room, either by opening a window slightly or by installing a fresh
air intake system on an outside wall.
Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal - When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic
vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively
cool chimney ue of a slow-burning re. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the ue lining. When
ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot re. The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at
least twice monthly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated (3mm or more), it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney re.
We strongly recommend that you install a magnetic thermometer on your smoke exhaust pipe, approximately
18” above the furnace. This thermometer will indicate the temperature of your gas exhaust fumes within the
smoke exhaust system. The ideal temperature for these gases is somewhere between 275°F and 500°F. Below
these temperatures, the build-up of creosote is promoted. Above 500 degrees, heat is wasted since a too large
quantity is lost into the atmosphere.
TO PREVENT CREOSOTE BUILD UP
Always burn dry wood. This allows clean burns and higher chimney temperatures, therefore less creosote deposit.
Leave the air control full open for about 5 min. every time you reload the furnace to bring it back to proper
operating temperatures. The secondary combustion can only take place if the rebox is hot enough.
Always check for creosote deposit once every two months and have your chimney cleaned at least once a
year. If a chimney or creosote re occurs, close all dampers immediately. Wait for the re to go out and the
heater to cool, then inspect the chimney for damage. If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning to
ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining in the chimney.
ASH DISPOSAL
Whenever ashes get 3 to 4 inches deep in your rebox or ash pan, and when the re has burned down and
cooled, remove excess ashes. Leave an ash bed approximately 1 inch deep on the rebox bottom to help
maintain a hot charcoal bed.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-tting lid. The closed container of ashes should be
placed on a noncombustible oor or on the ground, away from all combustible materials, pending nal disposal.
The ashes should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
If there is a soot or creosote re:
• Establish a routine for the storage of fuel, care for the appliance and ring techniques.
• Check daily for creosote buildup until experience shows how often cleaning is necessary.
• Be aware that the hotter the re, the less creosote is deposited, and that weekly cleaning can be necessary
in mild weather, even though monthly cleaning can be enough in the coldest months.
• Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney re.
TAMPER WARNING
This wood heater has a manufacturer-set minimum low burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal
regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
WARNINGS:
• Never over re your furnace. If any part of the furnace starts to glow red, over ring is happening. Readjust
the air intake control at a lower setting.
• The installation of a log cradle or grates is not recommended in your wood furnace. Build re directly on
rebrick.
• Never put wood above the rebrick lining of the rebox.