Bernina 1200DA User manual

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®6/01/02 1200DA/1300DC/1
BERNINA®1200DA/1300DC
MASTERING
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BERNINA®
MASTERING YOUR
1200DA/1300DC
OWNER’S WORKBOOK
BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®6/01/02 1200DA/1300DC/2
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MASTERING
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Table of Contents
SECTION A Pages 3-17
Let’s Start With The Basics
SECTION B Pages 18-37
4-Thread Techniques
SECTION C Pages 38-59
3-Thread Techniques
SECTION D Pages 60-74
Let’s Experiment
SECTION E Pages 75-89
Cover and Chain
(1300DC Only)

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Section A
Let’s Start With The Basics

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Let’s Start With The Basics
Machine Set-Up
• Identifying the serger parts – Owner’s manual pg__
• Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Owner's manual pg.____
• Assembling Thread Stand – Owner's manual pg.___
• Power Switch – Owner's manual pg.___
• Loopers – what are they? – Owner's manual pg.___
• The Looper Cover – Owner's manual pg.___
- Safety feature – machine won’t sew when the cover is open
Threads
Owner's manual pg.___
• Types to use
• The importance of quality threads
Needles
Owner's manual pg.___
• Always start with a new needle
• Match the needle to the fabric and thread – Owner's manual pg.___
• Change the needle often; using the needle inserter
• Loosening/re-tightening needle screws
Threading for Overlock Serging
Owner's manual pg.___
• Cone Holders and Spool Caps
- Holders used for large cones of serger thread
- Turn the cone upside down for the larger based cone threads
- Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools
• Raise the presser foot when threading
• The threading path – Owner's manual pg.___
• Use the road map inside the looper cover as a quick reference guide.
• Threading the first thread guide on all threads – Owner's manual pg.___. Lock thread into guide.
• Threading Order
- First – Upper Looper (Blue)
- Second – Lower Looper (Red)
- Third – Right Needle (Green)
- Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)
• Upper Looper – Owner's manual pg.___
• Lower Looper – Owner's manual pg.___
• Right Needle -– Owner's manual pg.___
• Left Needle – Owner's manual pg.___

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Test Serging
Owner's manual pg.___
• Lift the front of the presser foot to place the fabric under it before beginning to serge.
• Lift the entire presser foot by the handle at the back when accurate fabric placement is needed.
• Chain off the fabric
Cleaning and Oiling
Owner's manual pg.___
• Clip all threads at the thread guide support.
• Lift the presser foot to release (open) the thread tension disks.
• Gently pull threads from serger. Always remove threads in the direction of sewing. If you encounter any
resistance, stop and rotate the handwheel slightly to release the threads from the loopers.
• Open the looper cover; rotate the upper knife up.
• Using a vacuum cleaner adapter or a 1” cosmetic brush, remove all lint and fluff from the looper, knife
and feed dog areas of the machine.
• Following the oiling guide inside the looper cover, place a drop of oil on each of the two oiling points.
• Remove old needles and replace them with new.
• Rotate upper knife down into cutting position.
Replacing the Knives
Owner's manual pg.___
• Serger knives cut fabric as it is serged; as with scissors, repeated use can dull them. If knives begin to
“chew” instead of cut, consider replacing the lower knife.
• If you serge over pins, repalce both knives.
• An authorized BERNINA®technician will need to replace a dull upper knife.

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TENSION THEORY
Balanced 4-Thread Stitch
Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading
paths on the serger.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen.
• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
• To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb and slide the fabric under the
presser foot. Release the tip of the presser foot and begin serging.
• Serge to the end of the fabric.
• Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3”- 4” thread chain.
• Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch graphic on page__ of the
Owner's manual.
• Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__ of the Owner's manual for
information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities.
• Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.
• Trim and mount the sample.
Fabric: Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock)

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Lower Looper - Increased Tension
Owner's Manual pg.____
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch using
thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen.
• Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.
• Locate the thread tension dials on the front of the serger. From
left to right, these dials adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right
Needle, Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.
• Adjust the lower looper thread tension dial to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
• Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the
fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the
stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.
• Trim, label, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Lower Looper - Decreased Tension
• Change the lower looper thread tension dial to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.
The looper threads are very loose.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
ADJUSTING TENSIONS
Fabric: 6 pieces of firm fabric, 6” x 6” each
1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock)

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Upper Looper - Decreased Tension
• Change the upper looper thread tension dial to 2 to decrease the tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The upper looper
thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Upper Looper - Increased Tension
• Adjust the upper looper thread tension dial to 7 to increase the tension on the looper thread.
• Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper
thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.

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Right Needle
• Adjust the right needle thread tension dial to decrease
(down) the tension on the needle thread.
• Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large
loops on the back of the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Left Needle
• Adjust the left needle thread tension dial to 2 to decrease
the tension on the needle thread.
• Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large
loops on the back of the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Both Needles
• Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension dials to 7
to increase the tension on the needle threads.
• Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.
• Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
• Examine the sample. The stitch is puckering the fabric.
• Label, trim, and mount the sample.
• Return both needle thread tension settings to normal.

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STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
• Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the folded edge.
• Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
• Serge to the first mark along the folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.
• Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
• Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.
• Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.
• Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
• Trim and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
Fabric: Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock)
4mm 3mm 2mm 1mm

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• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Fold the fabric in half to be 3” x 6”.
• Divide and mark the fabric into three equal sections along the folded edge.
• Adjust the stitch length dial to 2.5 (normal).
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Rotate the upper knife up.
• Adjust cutting width to 4.
• Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
• Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the knife edge is on the mark.
• Adjust cutting width to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
• Adjust the cutting width to 2mm and serge to the end of the fabric.
• Mark the cutting width settings on the sample.
• Rotate the upper knife up.
• Adjust cutting width to 3mm (normal).
• Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
• Compare the cutting width sample to the balanced 4-thread sample to see how cutting width
affects the balance of the overlock stitch.
• Trim and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.
CUTTING WIDTH ADJUSTMENT
Fabric: Firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
(yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock)
4mm 3mm 2mm

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DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Fabrics That Stretch
Fabric: 3 pieces of ribbing,
5” (width) x 2” each (length)
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Set the stitch length to 2.5mm.
• With differential set at N, serge two of the ribbing pieces together along one 5” edge.
If the fabric is stretchy enough the edge will be wavy.
• Adjust the differential to 2.0.
• Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other side of the piece,
trimming slightly. With differential at a higher setting, the the wavy edge should be eliminated.
• Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
• Compare the seams to see how the differential settings can affect stretching.
• Trim and mount the sample.
• Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).
N
2.0

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DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Fabrics That Pucker
Fabric: Batiste, 3” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
N
0.7
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.
• With differential set at N, serge on one 6” edge. If fabric is lightweight enough the edge will
pucker.
• Adjust the differential to 0.7.
• Serge along the other edge, trimming slightly. With a low differential setting, the puckered
edge should be eliminated.
• Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
• Trim and mount the sample.
• Return the thread tension settings to normal.

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DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Gathering and Easing
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Using a fabric marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along one 12” side.
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Turn the differential feed dial to 2.
• Serge to the first mark.
• Adjust stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.
• Move the thread tension dials up to 8 to increase the needle thread tensions.
• Serge to the end of the fabric.
• Return the differential feed to “N” (normal).
• Return the stitch length to 2.5 (normal).
• Move the thread tension dials to return tensions to normal.
• Mark the sample: Differential Feed 2; Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4; Differential Feed 2
& stitch length 4 & increased needle tension.
• Trim and mount the sample.
Diff. Feed 2 SL4mm
Diff. Feed 2
Increased needle tensions
SL4mm
Diff. Feed 2

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SECURING SERGED SEAMS
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
Note: If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or Pinking Shears to trim the samples, do all trimming
before beginning to sew this sample.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2” x “6” and place the fabric under the presser foot.
• Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric. Lower the needles into the fabric.
• Raise the presser foot and with your left hand gently pull the thread chain around the needles to
the knife.
• Lower the presser foot and continue serging (cutting off the excess thread chain) until you are one (1)
stitch off the end of the fabric.
• Locate the rolled hem dial on the right side of the cloth plate; pull it towards you, releasing the thread
chain from the stitch finger.
• Raise the presser foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the lower looper side of the previously
serged seam will be overstitched.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the first stitch will enter the fabric when you begin stitching.
• Slide the rolled hem dial towards the body of the serger.
• Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric so as not to cut the previous
stitching.
• Raise the toe of the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.
• Serge off the edge of the fabric.
• If the upper knife is up, rotate it down into the cutting position.
• Trim and mount the sample.

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SERGING A TUBULAR PROJECT
Fabric: Firm cotton, 3” x 12”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
• With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.
• Press the seam to one side. (The upper looper thread is the right side of the seam.)
• On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” x ¼” section of fabric.
• Lower the presser foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”. Stop serging when the knife
enters the cutout; rotate the knife up.
• Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous stitching by 1”.
• Raise the presser foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.
• Lower the presser foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.
• Return the knife to the normal cutting position.
• Trim and mount the sample.

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Feet-ures, Unit M
Serger Technique Reference Book
Carrying Case
Serger Cone Thread
color________
color________
color________
color________
Needles
size____ and type___
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
Seam Sealant
Fabric Marking Pen
Rotary Cutter
Wavy Cutting blade
BERNINAÒ14” ruler
BERNINAÒCutting Mat
Fabric Glue Stick
Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
WISH LIST
Let’s Start With The Basics

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OWNER’S WORKBOOK
Section B
4-Thread Techniques

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General Construction Seaming
• Use a 4-thread Overlock stitch for most fabrics
- The right needle stitching helps to prevent fabric rolling within the stitch and keeps the seam flat.
• Secure seam ends if you will not be stitching across them again.
• Adjust presser foot pressure for very thick or thin fabrics – Owner’s manual pg.____
Serging Knits
• Use Ballpoint or Stretch needles to prevent damage to the fabric.
• Woolly Nylon in the loopers adds to the stretch of the serger stitch.
• Adjust stitch length to 3mm for most seam applications.
• To prevent fabric stretching during sewing
- Differential feed – Owner's manual pg.____
- Presser foot pressure – Owner's manual pg.____
- Built-in Tape Guide – Owner's manual pg.____
Serging Wovens
• Use Universal, Sharp or Microtex Needles.
• Match the serger cone thread to the fabric’s fiber content and color.
• Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm for medium to heavy fabrics.
• Adjust stitch length to 2mm for lightweight fabrics.
• Whenever possible work with opposing seams (one seam allowance pressed to the left and one
seam allowance pressed to the right) as you join the seamed pieces together.
Optional Presser Feet
• The Elasticator Foot – Owner's leaflet for the Elasticator
- For attaching elastic from 5mm -12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.
- Adjust Presser Foot Pressure to “H” – Owner's manual pg.____
- Adjust Stitch Length to 4mm.
• Gathering Attachment – Owner's leaflet for the Gathering Attachment
- What affects gathering?
- Type and weight of fabric
- Differential Feed – Owner's manual pg.____
- Stitch Length
- Needle Tension – Owner's manual pg.____
- Gathering to a piece of fabric
• Use the Gathering Attachment with other serger presser feet.
SECTION B
4-Thread Techniques

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4 THREAD OVERLOCK SEAM
Fabric: Medium weight, 5” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Thread: 4 cones of serger thread
Presser Foot: Standard
Stitch: #1 (4-thread overlock stitch)
• Owner’s manual pg.___
• Thread the serger for a 4-thread balanced overlock stitch.
• Adjust as indicated on the LCD screen. Fine tune as needed.
• Locate the seam guide markings on the knife guard. Distances are measured from the right needle.
• When using the left needle, distance is increased by 1/8”.
• Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
• Align the fold of the fabric with the ½” mark on the knife guard (the left needle is being used). Serge
the seam, cutting off exactly 3/8”.
• Trim and mount the sample.