Bernina 590 User manual

BERNINA 590

Welcome
3
Dear BERNINA customer
Congratulations! You have decided on BERNINA and therefore on a product which will delight you for years.
For more than 100 years our family company has attached greatest importance to satisfied customers. As for
me, it is a matter of personal concern to offer you Swiss development and precision at the height of
perfection, future-orientated sewing technology and a comprehensive customer service.
The BERNINA 5-series consists of various ultramodern machines, whose development not only focused the
highest demands on technique and the ease of use but also considered the design of the product. After all
we sell our products to creative people like you, who do not only appreciate high quality but also form and
design.
Enjoy the creative sewing, embroidering and quilting on your new BERNINA 590 and keep informed about
the various accessories at www.bernina.com. On our homepage you will also find a lot of inspiring sewing
instructions, to be downloaded for free.
Our highly trained BERNINA dealers will provide you with more information on service and maintenance
offers.
I wish you lots of pleasure and many creative hours with your new BERNINA.
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner
BERNINA International AG
CH-8266 Steckborn

Edition notice
4
Edition notice
Graphics
www.sculpt.ch
Text, Setting and Layout
BERNINA International AG
Fotos
Patrice Heilmann, Winterthur
Part number
2017/10 en 1026725.0.04
1st Edition
Copyright
2017 BERNINA International AG
All rights reserved: For technical reasons and for the purpose of product improvements, changes
concerning the features of the machine can be made at any time and without advance notice. The supplied
accessory can vary depending on the country of delivery.

Contents
5
Contents
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS................................................................................................14
1 My BERNINA.......................................................................................................................................18
1.1 Introduction ............................................................................................................................18
1.2 Welcome to the world of BERNINA .........................................................................................18
1.3 Key to signs ............................................................................................................................19
1.4 Overview Machine ..................................................................................................................20
Overview front controls .......................................................................................................20
Overview front ....................................................................................................................21
Overview sideways ..............................................................................................................22
Overview back.....................................................................................................................23
1.5 Supplied accessories................................................................................................................23
Overview accessories machine .............................................................................................23
Use of the power cable (only USA/Canada)..........................................................................25
Overview presser feet ..........................................................................................................26
Accessory box......................................................................................................................28
1.6 Overview User Interface ..........................................................................................................29
Overview functions/Visual information.................................................................................29
Overview System settings ....................................................................................................29
Overview selection menu sewing .........................................................................................30
Overview Icons ....................................................................................................................30
1.7 Needle, Thread, Fabric.............................................................................................................31
Overview needles ................................................................................................................31
Example for needle description ............................................................................................33
Thread selection ..................................................................................................................33
Needle/thread combination .................................................................................................34
2 Sewing preparation...........................................................................................................................35
2.1 Accessory box .........................................................................................................................35
Removing and attaching the accessory box..........................................................................35
Storing accessories ..............................................................................................................35
2.2 Connection and Switching on .................................................................................................36
Connecting the foot control ................................................................................................36
Connecting the machine .....................................................................................................36
Attaching the knee lifter of the Free Hand System ...............................................................36
Fixing the touchscreen pen ..................................................................................................37
Switching the machine on ...................................................................................................37
2.3 Foot control ...........................................................................................................................37
Regulating the speed via the foot control ............................................................................37
Raising/Lowering the needle ................................................................................................38
Programming the foot control individually ...........................................................................38
2.4 Spool pin ................................................................................................................................38
Retractable spool pin ...........................................................................................................38
Horizontal spool pin ............................................................................................................39
2.5 Free arm .................................................................................................................................40
2.6 Feed dog.................................................................................................................................40

Contents
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Adjusting the feed dog........................................................................................................40
2.7 Slide-on table..........................................................................................................................41
Using the slide-on table .......................................................................................................41
2.8 Presser foot.............................................................................................................................42
Adjusting the presser position via the knee lifter of the Free Hand System ..........................42
Adjusting the presser foot position via the button «Presser foot up/down» .........................42
Changing the presser foot ...................................................................................................42
Selecting the presser foot in the user interface.....................................................................43
Adjusting the presser foot pressure......................................................................................43
2.9 Adjusting the feed dog ...........................................................................................................44
2.10 Needle and stitch plate............................................................................................................44
Changing the needle ...........................................................................................................44
Selecting the needle in the User Interface ............................................................................44
Select the needle type and the needle size...........................................................................44
Adjusting the needle position up/down ...............................................................................45
Adjusting the needle position left/right ................................................................................45
Needle stop up/down (permanent) ......................................................................................45
Changing the stitch plate ....................................................................................................46
Selecting the stitch plate in the User Interface......................................................................46
2.11 Threading ...............................................................................................................................47
Threading the upper thread.................................................................................................47
Threading the double needle ...............................................................................................49
Threading the triple needle..................................................................................................50
Winding the bobbin thread .................................................................................................50
Threading the bobbin thread ...............................................................................................51
Indicating fill level of bobbin thread.....................................................................................53
3 Setup Program ...................................................................................................................................55
3.1 Sewing settings.......................................................................................................................55
Adjusting the upper thread tension .....................................................................................55
Adjusting the maximum sewing speed.................................................................................55
Programming securing stitches ...........................................................................................55
Adjusting the hovering height of the presser foot ................................................................56
Programming the button «Pattern end» ..............................................................................56
Programming the button «Thread cutter» ...........................................................................57
Adjusting the presser foot position with needle stop down..................................................57
Programming the button «Quick reverse» ...........................................................................58
Programming the foot control .............................................................................................58
3.2 Embroidery settings.................................................................................................................59
Adjusting the upper thread tension .....................................................................................59
Adjusting the maximum embroidering speed.......................................................................60
Centering the embroidery motif or opening in original position ...........................................60
Calibrating the hoop ...........................................................................................................61
Entering the fabric thickness................................................................................................61
Function thread away on/off................................................................................................62
Programming securing stitches (Smart Secure) .....................................................................62
Adjusting the thread cut......................................................................................................63
Changing the measuring unit ..............................................................................................64
3.3 Selecting personal settings ......................................................................................................64

Contents
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3.4 Monitoring functions ..............................................................................................................65
Activating the upper thread indicator ..................................................................................65
Activating the bobbin thread indicator.................................................................................65
3.5 Activating the audio signals.....................................................................................................66
3.6 Machine settings.....................................................................................................................66
Selecting a language ...........................................................................................................66
Adjusting the brightness of the display ................................................................................67
Adjusting the sewing light ...................................................................................................67
Checking the firmware version ............................................................................................67
Reviewing the total number of stitches ................................................................................68
Registering details of the dealer...........................................................................................68
Saving Service data..............................................................................................................69
Back to basic setting............................................................................................................69
Deleting user data ...............................................................................................................70
Deleting motifs on the BERNINA USB Stick...........................................................................70
Calibrating the Buttonhole foot No. 3A ...............................................................................71
Updating the machine Firmware..........................................................................................71
Recovering saved data .........................................................................................................72
Cleaning the thread catcher ................................................................................................73
Lubricating the machine ......................................................................................................73
Packing the embroidery module ..........................................................................................74
4 System settings..................................................................................................................................75
4.1 Calling up the Tutorial.............................................................................................................75
4.2 Calling up the Creative Consultant..........................................................................................75
4.3 Using eco mode ......................................................................................................................75
4.4 Calling up the embroidery consultant......................................................................................76
4.5 Calling up the Help .................................................................................................................76
4.6 Cancelling any alterations with «clr» .......................................................................................76
5 Creative sewing .................................................................................................................................77
5.1 Overview selection menu sewing.............................................................................................77
Selecting a stitch pattern .....................................................................................................77
5.2 BERNINA Dual Feed.................................................................................................................77
Application of the BERNINA Dual Feed.................................................................................78
5.3 Regulating the speed ..............................................................................................................79
5.4 Adjusting the upper thread tension .........................................................................................79
5.5 Editing stitch patterns .............................................................................................................80
Changing the stitch width ...................................................................................................80
Changing the stitch length ..................................................................................................80
Correcting the balance ........................................................................................................81
Programming pattern repeat ...............................................................................................81
Programming long stitch .....................................................................................................81
Mirror image of stitch patterns ............................................................................................81
Editing stitch pattern length ...............................................................................................82
Programming the stitch counter function.............................................................................82
Sewing stitch patterns using the triple stitch ........................................................................82
Quick reverse.......................................................................................................................83

Contents
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Permanent Quick reverse .....................................................................................................83
Backstepping.......................................................................................................................83
5.6 Combining stitch patterns .......................................................................................................84
Overview Combi mode ........................................................................................................84
Creating Stitch pattern combinations...................................................................................84
Saving a stitch pattern combination.....................................................................................84
Loading a stitch pattern combination...................................................................................84
Overwriting a stitch pattern combination.............................................................................85
Deleting a stitch pattern combination ..................................................................................85
Editing a single stitch pattern...............................................................................................85
Deleting a single stitch pattern ............................................................................................85
Adding a single stitch pattern ..............................................................................................86
Aligning the stitch length and width....................................................................................87
Mirroring a stitch pattern combination ................................................................................87
Stitch pattern combination Subdivider 1 ..............................................................................88
Stitch pattern combination Subdivider 2 ..............................................................................88
Securing a stitch pattern combination..................................................................................88
Programming pattern repeat ...............................................................................................89
5.7 Administering stitch patterns...................................................................................................89
Saving settings of stitch patterns .........................................................................................89
Saving stitch patterns in personal memory ...........................................................................89
Overwriting stitch patterns from the personal memory ........................................................89
Loading stitch patterns from the personal memory ..............................................................90
Deleting stitch patterns from the personal memory..............................................................90
Uploading a stitch pattern from the BERNINA USB stick .......................................................90
Deleting stitch patterns from the BERNINA USB stick ...........................................................91
5.8 Securing..................................................................................................................................91
Securing via the icon «Securing» .........................................................................................91
Securing with the button «Pattern end» ..............................................................................91
5.9 Height Compensation of uneven layers ...................................................................................91
5.10 Sewing Corners.......................................................................................................................92
6 Practical stitches ................................................................................................................................93
6.1 Overview Practical stitches.......................................................................................................93
6.2 Sewing straight stitch..............................................................................................................96
6.3 Securing with the automatic Securing Program .......................................................................96
6.4 Sewing in the zipper ...............................................................................................................97
6.5 Sewing both sides of the zipper from bottom to top ...............................................................98
6.6 Sewing triple straight stitch .....................................................................................................99
6.7 Sewing Triple zig zag ..............................................................................................................99
6.8 Manual darning ....................................................................................................................100
6.9 Automatic darning ................................................................................................................102
6.10 Reinforced darning, automatic ..............................................................................................102
6.11 Reinforced Darning Program .................................................................................................103
6.12 Finishing edges .....................................................................................................................104
6.13 Sewing Double overlock........................................................................................................104

Contents
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6.14 Narrow edgestitching............................................................................................................105
6.15 Wide edgestitching ...............................................................................................................105
6.16 Edgestitching using the seam guide (optional accessory) .......................................................106
6.17 Sewing hem edges................................................................................................................106
6.18 Sewing blind hems................................................................................................................107
6.19 Sewing visible hems ..............................................................................................................108
6.20 Sewing flat joining seams......................................................................................................108
6.21 Sewing basting stitches .........................................................................................................109
7 Decorative stitches ..........................................................................................................................110
7.1 Overview Decorative Stitches.................................................................................................110
7.2 Bobbin-Play...........................................................................................................................111
7.3 Altering the stitch density......................................................................................................112
7.4 Sewing cross stitches.............................................................................................................112
7.5 Pintucks ................................................................................................................................113
Pintucks.............................................................................................................................113
Overview pintucks .............................................................................................................113
Inserting the cord ..............................................................................................................114
Sewing Pintucks ................................................................................................................114
8 Alphabets .........................................................................................................................................115
8.1 Overview Alphabet................................................................................................................115
8.2 Creating lettering..................................................................................................................116
8.3 Altering font size...................................................................................................................116
9 Buttonholes......................................................................................................................................118
9.1 Overview Buttonholes ...........................................................................................................118
9.2 Making use of the height compensation tool ........................................................................120
9.3 Using the compensation plate ...............................................................................................120
9.4 Marking buttonholes.............................................................................................................121
9.5 Cord .....................................................................................................................................122
Using cord with the Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A ......................................................122
Using cord with the Buttonhole foot No. 3C (optional accessory).......................................123
9.6 Sewing a test sample ............................................................................................................124
9.7 Determining the buttonhole slit width...................................................................................124
9.8 Determining the buttonhole length .......................................................................................125
9.9 Using the stitch counter function ..........................................................................................125
9.10 Sewing a buttonhole automatically .......................................................................................126
9.11 Programming the Heirloom buttonhole .................................................................................127
9.12 Sewing the manual 7-step buttonhole...................................................................................127
9.13 Sewing the manual 5-step buttonhole...................................................................................128
9.14 Cutting the buttonhole open with the seam ripper................................................................129
9.15 Cutting open buttonholes with the buttonhole cutter (optional accessory) ............................129

Contents
10
9.16 Sewing on buttons................................................................................................................130
9.17 Sewing eyelets ......................................................................................................................130
10 Quilting ............................................................................................................................................131
10.1 Overview Quilt Stitches .........................................................................................................131
10.2 Quilting, Securing Program ...................................................................................................132
10.3 Sewing handlook quilt stitches ..............................................................................................132
10.4 Guiding the quilt work freely.................................................................................................133
11 BERNINA Stitch Regulator (BSR) .....................................................................................................134
11.1 BSR mode 1 ..........................................................................................................................134
11.2 BSR mode 2 ..........................................................................................................................134
11.3 BSR function with Straight stitch No. 1..................................................................................134
11.4 BSR function with Zig zag No. 2 ............................................................................................134
11.5 Sewing preparations for quilting ...........................................................................................134
Attach the BSR presser foot ...............................................................................................134
Changing the presser foot sole ..........................................................................................135
11.6 Using the BSR mode..............................................................................................................135
11.7 Securing................................................................................................................................136
Securing in BSR1 mode with the button «Start/Stop» ........................................................136
Securing in BSR2 mode......................................................................................................136
12 My BERNINA Embroidery ................................................................................................................138
12.1 Overview Embroidery module................................................................................................138
12.2 Supplied accessories Embroidery module...............................................................................138
Overview Accessories Embroidery module..........................................................................138
12.3 Overview User Interface ........................................................................................................139
Overview functions/visual information ...............................................................................139
Overview System settings ..................................................................................................140
Overview Selection menu embroidery ................................................................................140
12.4 Important Embroidery information ........................................................................................140
Upper thread.....................................................................................................................140
Bobbin thread ...................................................................................................................141
Selecting the embroidery file format ..................................................................................141
Embroidery test .................................................................................................................142
The size of the embroidery motif .......................................................................................142
Embroidering motifs by third-party providers .....................................................................142
Underlay stitches ...............................................................................................................142
Satin stitch ........................................................................................................................142
Step stitch .........................................................................................................................143
Connecting stitches ...........................................................................................................143
13 Embroidering preparation ..............................................................................................................144
13.1 Attaching the Module ...........................................................................................................144
13.2 Removing the embroidery module.........................................................................................144
13.3 Preparing the machine ..........................................................................................................145
Lowering the feed dog ......................................................................................................145

Contents
11
Selecting an embroidery motif ...........................................................................................145
13.4 Embroidery foot ....................................................................................................................145
Attaching the embroidery foot ..........................................................................................145
Selecting the presser foot in the User Interface ..................................................................146
13.5 Needle and stitch plate..........................................................................................................147
Inserting the embroidery needle ........................................................................................147
Selecting the embroidery needle in the User Interface........................................................147
Selecting the needle type and the needle size ....................................................................147
Attaching the stitch plate ..................................................................................................148
Selecting the stitch plate in the User Interface....................................................................148
Thread-up command .........................................................................................................149
13.6 Embroidery hoop ..................................................................................................................149
Overview Embroidery hoop selection .................................................................................149
Selecting the embroidery hoop ..........................................................................................149
Tear-away stabilizers..........................................................................................................149
Cut-away stabilizers...........................................................................................................150
Using adhesive spray .........................................................................................................150
Using spray starch .............................................................................................................150
Using iron-on interfacing ...................................................................................................150
Using paper-backed adhesive stabilizer ..............................................................................150
Using water-soluble stabilizer ............................................................................................151
Preparing the embroidery hoop .........................................................................................151
Attaching the hoop ...........................................................................................................152
Overview Embroidery functions .........................................................................................153
Center the needle to the embroidery hoop ........................................................................153
Moving the hoop to the back ............................................................................................153
Moving the module for the sewing mode ..........................................................................153
Grid on/off ........................................................................................................................154
Locating the center of the embroidery motif......................................................................154
Virtual positioning of the embroidery hoop........................................................................154
14 Setup Program .................................................................................................................................155
14.1 Adjusting the embroidery settings in the Setup Program .......................................................155
15 Creative embroidering ....................................................................................................................156
15.1 Overview embroidering .........................................................................................................156
15.2 Selecting and changing the embroidery motif .......................................................................156
15.3 Checking the embroidery time and the embroidery motif size ...............................................156
15.4 Regulating the speed ............................................................................................................156
15.5 Editing the embroidery motif.................................................................................................157
Overview Editing embroidery motif....................................................................................157
Scaling up the embroidery motif view................................................................................157
Downsizing the embroidery motif view..............................................................................157
Moving the embroidery motif view ....................................................................................157
Moving the embroidery motif in enlarged view..................................................................158
Moving the embroidery motif ............................................................................................158
Rotating motif ...................................................................................................................158
Altering the embroidery motif size proportionally ..............................................................159
Altering the embroidery motif size disproportionally ..........................................................159
Mirroring embroidery motifs..............................................................................................160