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05/14/2020
BERNINA
Overlocker Workbook 1
Needle and Thread
Overlocker Needles
BERNINA overlocks use the same type of nee-
dles as most sewing machines: 130/705H.
Recommended needle sizes for your overlocker
are 70/11, 80/12 and 90/14. Larger needles can
interfere with looper movement and cause dam-
age; smaller needles may not form the stitches
correctly.
Always make sure needles are fully inserted as
high as possible, with the flat side to the back.
When using both the right and left needle, the
needles will not be even when they are fully in-
serted. The left needle will be slightly higher
than the right one. This preserves the order the
threads are used to form the stitch.
Overlocker Thread
Overlocker threads are usually polyester and are finer (lighter weight) than many sewing machine threads to
avoid thread build-up and excessive bulk in seams. It is important that the thread is smooth without
variations in diameter as it needs to feed smoothly through many thread guides for good stitch formation.
You also want a good-quality thread – such as Mettler Seracor – that is not “fuzzy” and does not leave exces-
sive lint in the lower part of your overlocker. Overlocker threads are sold on cones for economy and conven-
ience; regular spools of thread may be used but will not last very long when forming overlock stitches. Along
with overlocker thread, there are applications that call for specialty and decorative threads.
Listed below are some of these threads commonly used in the overlocker:
Texturized Nylon Thread – such as YLI Woolly Nylon and Seraflock—A very elastic
thread with excellent coverage; perfect for rolled edges and knit seams. Available in solid
and variegated colors, and metallics.
Polyester Topstitching Thread – such as YLI Jeans Stitch & Mettler Cordonnet – this heavy
thread is used for decorative stitching (flatlocked seams and overcast edges). Also
nice for cover and chain stitching. Available in solid and variegated colors.
Rayon Decorative Threads – such as YLI Pearl Crown Rayon & YLI Designer 6 – shiny
threads for decorative applications. Pearl Crown Rayon is twisted, while Designer 6 is
untwisted. Available in solid and variegated colors.
Metallic Decorative Threads – such as YLI Candlelight – adds a bit of glitz to seams and edgings.
Decorative Sewing Threads – sewing machine threads can also be used in the overlocker, and are
particularly effective when several are used together as one thread.