Brewer's Ledge Treadwall PE User manual

INSTALLATION MANUAL
TREADWALL Model PE
Wall Mount
Brewer’s Ledge Inc. ● 34 Brookley Road ● Boston MA 02130 ● 800-707-9616 ● www.treadwall.com
TREADWALL

TREADWALL ® PE wm Install Manual
The manual for the Treadwall PE
wall-mount is arranged as a check
list. As you go through we
encourage you to check off the
steps.
The Treadwall is a large, but not
complicated machine. None of the
steps in this manual are particularly
difficult, but it is important to follow
all of the steps carefully.
The order of assembly is important
at certain points, so read each
page. A video accompanies this
manual, A play-through before you
start is highly recommended.
Requirements:
Treadwall installation is a full day's work for two people. The installers should have
mechanical aptitude and some experience with mechanical assembly.
Two Stepladders eight foot and sturdy are required. If you don't have them, rent them!
Other tools:
VSR Electric drill with bits (and extension cord if it is not cordless)
#2 Phillips bit
Combination wrench set - particularly the sizes 3/8", 9/16", 3/4".
Socket wrench set - particularly the sizes 3/8", 9/16", 3/4".
Hammer
8" crescent wrench
Screwdrivers
Tape measure
Work gloves
A
llen wrench set
Pair of pliers with nippers
2 carpenter's aprons
Knife
Eye protection
Vice-grip pliers
Small jar or tube of Vaseline
Silicone spray lube
Hand cleaner
Spray cleaner and rags
Carpenter’s apron (to hold small parts and tools)
TREADWALL
A
BOUT THIS MANUAL:
This manual is extracted from the standard
Treadwall PE install manual with irrelevant
material deleted. Use the supplemental
instructions to install the main support frame,
and then continue with the following pages.
The pictures in this manual show a standard
Treadwall PE, but the main difference is in the
frame construction, and the relevant points are
well illustrated.
IMPORTAN
T
: The Treadwall
transformer is designed for use with
110 volt 60 or 50 cycle AC current.
It supplies 12 volts DC at 1.5 amps
to the Treadwall. Users with
different supply voltages must use
a conversion transformer or other
means to provide the proper
voltage.

Brewer's Ledge Inc •34 Brookley Road •Boston MA 02130 •800-707-9616 •www.brewersledge.com
Supplemental instructions for the Wall -mounted Treadwall
The basic differences between a standard Treadwall and the wall-mounted version are in the
support frame and the angle-changing mechanism.
Support frame:
The wall-mount version has one-piece side frames that are considerably narrower than the
standard Treadwall frames. The frames are deep enough at the base to support the full weight
of the Treadwall, but in use, they must be attached to a backing wall for lateral support and to
provide front-to-back stability. The accompanying drawing, TWM-04, shows our
recommendations for attaching the frames to the wall. Using 2x8 backing plates as shown in the
diagram works very well and is highly recommended.
Steps:
1) Prepare backing plates and attach them to the wall as recommended
2) Assemble support frame – two large side frames and two horizontal bars in the back. The
horizontals have L-shaped brackets at the ends, and they should be oriented so that the “Ls”
are toward the back of the frames.
3) There are flat x-braces, as shown in the drawing TWMM-04. These braces are attached with
the same bolts that attach the horizontal bars to the frame. The bolt heads should be at the
back of the frame with the hardware in this order, from back to front: Bolt head – washer –
horizontal L-bracket – frame upright – x-brace – washer – lockwasher – nut.
4) Once assembled, the frame is free-standing, but there is not a great deal of lateral support
until the x-braces are tightened-up. Leave them a bit loose until the frame is mounted to the
wall.
5) Push the frame into place against the backing plates and drill ¼” pilot holes for the top four
lag screws. Screw the top horizontal to the top backing plate with 3/8 x 3 ½” lag screws with
washers and lockwashers. Use the provided shim-washers to space the horizontal out from
the backing plate by about 3/8” (4 washers at each lag bolt). This provides clearance for the
bolts at the ends of the horizontals.
6) The bottom of the frame can be slid back and forth with a chunk of 2x4 and a hammer until
the frames are true and perpendicular. Use a carpenter’s square to make sure the frame is
square with the horizontals. When it is all trued up, put in the bottom four lag-bolts. Shim
these lag bolts like the top ones.
7) Tighten the x-brace turnbuckles evenly.
Angle adjuster:
The rest of the Treadwall assembly is similar to the standard Treadwall, as shown in the
Treadwall Assembly Manual, with the exception of the angle adjuster. Drawing TWM-01 and
TWM-13 show how the wall-mount angle adjuster works. Simply bolt the angle bearings to the
channels as shown and attach the swinging link to the back frame. The Treadwall is easily
adjusted to a slab or overhanging angle by rotating the crank handle.
Encl: TWM-04, TWM-01, TWM-13, TWM-03

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2
Main Shaft:
The main shaft has four bearings and three sprockets.
The end with two sprockets goes to the right.
 Raise the shaft to top of the frames. Position the
ladders slightly in front of the frames as shown. Line up
the holes and place the mounting bolts with washers.
 Tighten the bearing-bolts down firmly to the frame
tops.
Preparing Channels and Control Panel:
The channels are largest pieces of the Treadwall. They are
marked right and left.
The control panel contains the hydraulic pump and control
machinery that runs the braking system.
Take a moment to look at the pump assembly - the heart
of the Treadwall.
The pump is attached to an oil reservoir and a simple circuit
with two valves. The rotary valve with a knob is the flow
control. This controls the speed of descent of the wall by
controlling the flow of oil from the pump. The other valve
has an electric coil. This is a solenoid valve that closes
when the photoelectric sensors are blocked by the climber's
feet. When this valve is closed, the oil cannot flow, and the
Treadwall stops.
 Find the right channel and Lay the right channel down
on two chairs with the smooth side facing up.
 Attach the control panel to the channel. Remove the
four bolts that hold the pump to the control panel. Also
remove the nut and washers from the “fifth bolt” that is
right below the pump and take the large washer off the
pump shaft. Place the control panel on the channel as
shown and use the four mounting bolts to attach
through the slots Each bolt must have a flat washer to
slide against the channel and a lock washer to hold it
tight. See the tightening instructions below.
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Wall mount install manual body 04-25-07.doc
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 Put the “fifth bolt” through the hole in the channel
and replace the washers and nut.
 Push the panel assembly towards the top of the
channel until it is at the top of the mounting slots and
tighten the mounting bolts.
Important: Do not over-tighten the mounting bolts.
The torque specification is 3 foot-pounds, but most torque
wrenches don’t measure in this range. The five bolts should
be tight enough to compress the lockwashers fully plus a
little more - firm but not tight. The long tensioning bolt must
be able to push the pump down for future adjustment of the
drive chain.
Mounting the Channels:
 Hook the right channel onto the shaft just inside of
the square bearing. This channel with the control panel
attached is quite heavy - a two person job. One person
on the ground holds the channel in place while the
ladder person bolts it onto the bearing. Only install the
bottom rear bolt in the bearing at this time and leave the
nut loose.
 Install the left channel on the other end of the shaft.
Again, only install the bottom rear bolt.
Drive Chain
The drive chain connects the pump with the main shaft.
 Install the sprocket onto the pump shaft and tighten
the setscrews securely. The hub side of the sprocket
goes on first – outside of sprocket flush with the end of
the shaft.
 Install the large fender washer over the sprocket to
safeguard the sprocket if the setscrews become loose.
 Install the #40 drive chain between the pump and the
sprocket on the upper shaft. The chain stays loose for
now.

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4
Bottom shaft, Back-guard, Channel X-bracing:
Bottom shaft: a 1" diameter shaft with two large sprockets. One
sprocket is fixed and the other is loose.
Back-guard: a long flat piece with wing ends.
X
-Bracing: 5/16" rod with a turnbuckle at one end.
 Place the shaft into the two bearings at the bottom of the
channels, loose sprocket to the right. Slide the bearings all the
way on - up to the stop-collars.
 Tighten the bearing setscrews, but leave the bearing bolts
loose so that the bearings can slide up and down in the slots
Make sure the setscrews are fully retracted before trying to insert the
shaft. Also, if the shaft doesn't go in easily, unbolt the bearings from
the channels and slip them onto the shaft. It's often easier and faster
in the long run.
The back-guard attaches between the channels at the back near the
bottom. It is shipped bolted together to the spacer bar. The back-
guard mounting bolts are temporary. You will replace them with
longer bolts that hold on the photocell and reflector brackets later.
Note the ends of the back-guard. The straight edge goes up. The
angled edge goes down.
 Bolt the back-guard temporarily onto the two channels with 3/8"
bolts. You will replace these bolts with the photocell bolts later.
The x-bracing goes between the two channels - turnbuckles at the
bottom.
 Attach the x-bracing to the shackles in the channels. Tighten
the turnbuckles evenly so that they are the same length and
make them finger tight. Tighten the locknuts on the turnbuckles
and fasten a piece of tie-wire through the shackle and turnbuckle
body to keep them from loosening up.
Definition
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Wall mount install manual body 04-25-07.doc
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Counter-timer, spacer bar, photocells:
Spacer-bar: a piece of 1 1/2" square tubing with a threaded hole at
one end and a stud at the other (It is shipped bolted to the back-
guard).
 Bolt the spacer-bar between the two channels about one foot
above the adjuster pipe. Use the lowest of the three small holes.
The stud-end goes on the left side – the short bolt attaches the
right end. The x-braces go on either side of the bar.
 Mount the counter timer onto the stud. See instructions at the
end of this manual for wiring the counter-timer.
Photocell bracket: a piece of square tubing about fourteen inches
long with wires.
Reflector bracket: like the photocell bracket without wires.
The brackets project out from the bottoms of the channels –
photocell on the right and reflectors on the left.
 Bolt the photocells to the right channel. Remove the temporary
rear-guard bolts and sandwich the end of the rear guard between
the photocells and the channel.
 Run the wires through the rectangular access hole just above the
bracket and up the inside of the channel, through the wire clips
until they reach the spacer bar.
 Attach the reflector bracket to the left channel with the reflectors
facing the photocells.
Wiring:
 Frame wire – at top of right frame: Push wires through rubber-grommet hole in right channel and down
through wire clips to the spacer-bar.
 Connect frame-wire to photocell-wires (two sets of bullet-connectors).
 Push two longer wires (marked “switch” and “valve”) through slot at bottom of control panel and connect
to switch and solenoid-valve.
 Attach the wires at the bottom of the frame to the transformer. Extra cord is in the frame if needed.
Excess should be coiled at the top of the frame and pushed into the leg.
 Wrap the gray cord around the spacer bar, running it across the Treadwall to the left channel and out
through the hole at the counter-timer. Turn to page 15 for further wiring instructions.
 Plug in the transformer. When you block either of the photocells, you should hear a faint click inside the
photocell bracket. Align them as detailed on page 15.
 Attach wires to the spacer bar with ties – leave no loose cord to catch moving parts.
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Wall mount install manual body 04-25-07.doc
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The Main Chains:
Protect floor under Treadwall from grease and wear gloves.
Remove one chain from the box. One person should hold the
coil on edge and unwind it while the other raises the chain
over the shaft.
.
 Lift one chain up to the main shaft and drape it over the
shaft next to one of the sprockets. Make sure the
mounting tabs are facing out. move the chain around the
shaft until the two ends are equal at the bottom.
 Lift the chain onto the sprocket.
 Repeat for other chain.
 Synchronize the chains so that the tabs with holes are
directly across from each other. If you don't do this, the
Treadwall will not work!
Line up one of the chain tabs with the horizontal spacer
bar. Check that the other chain is also lined up with the
other end of the spacer bar. If the tabs don't line up, adjus
t
the chains until they are synchronized.
 Place the chains around the sprockets of the lower
shaft and put on the master links.
 Tighten the bearing mounting-bolts. Only tighten these
bolts enough to flatten the lockwashers so that future
adjustments can be made without loosening the bolts
The shroud and proximity switch:
Shroud: a large part with "Treadwall" printed on it in big
letters. It goes between the two channels at the top of the
machine.
 Preparation: Line up the holes at the top of the
channels with the holes in the large square bearings.
This can be done at the bottom of the channels by
adjusting the push-down bolts above the lower-shaft
bearings.
When you adjust these bolts against the lower-shaft
bearings, the channels are lifted until the holes at the top
line up.
One person adjusts the push-down bolts while a person
on a ladder tests the holes at the top with a bolt.
The shroud is awkward to lift, and lining up these holes
will make mounting it a lot easier.
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Wall mount install manual body 04-25-07.doc
7
The shroud mounts at the top of the Treadwall, and the printed
surface will be vertical.
 Place the ladders as shown, and lift the shroud to the top of
the channels.
 Bolt it onto the top bearing holes with 1/2" bolts.
Proximity switch: A bracket with a black wire, shipped with the
magnets and counter-timer in the parts box.
 Attach the proximity switch inside the top of the left
channel using the top rear bolt of the large square bearing.
 Place the 3 magnets on the shaft. The magnets stick to the
shaft by magnetic attraction. Adjust the magnets until the
center of the magnets pass under the proximity switch with a
1/8" gap.
 Bring the wire down the inside of the channel through the
clips and out through the hole near the counter-timer. Plug
in the wire. See page 15 for details.
 Turn the shaft by pulling down the chains a few times to
test the Counter-timer It should register one foot each time
two magnets pass the switch.
Panels:
Putting on the panels is tedious but goes better if you are
organized.
Check the chains again to make certain that they are still
synchronized. (If you find that the chains are not synchronized
when the panels are partly on, call us. We have a quick fix.)
Tools:
A
VSR battery-operated drill with an adjustable clutch and a #
2
Phillips bit.
A
3/8” wrench – either a small socket or combination wrench.
 Install a reinforcing channel (“stiffy”) onto the back of each
panel before bolting to the chains. The stiffy slips into the
holes when properly aligned.
If the stiffy is a tight fit, you can place the panel face down
on the floor and step on the stiffy to push it into place.
 Attach the stiffy. On the front of the panel there is one hole
near the middle of the that does not have a flat 'island'
around it. There is a bag of short round-head bolts in the
hardware box. Screw one of these bolts through this special
hole to hold on the stiffy.
Definition

Wall mount install manual body 04-25-07.doc
8
 Slip the first panels into the front of the channels and
bolt to the chains.
The nuts go to the rear. Make the bolts firm, but not tight
enough to sink the heads into the panels. If you are using
a cordless drill, use a very low setting on the clutch. On a
DeWalt drill, we use a setting of 3.
 Align the sprocket. After the first panel is installed, rotate
it around by pulling the chains down until the panel has
made one complete rotation. This will align the sliding
sprocket on the lower shaft. You may have to tap the
sprocket into alignment with a hammer.
 Alternate the panels.The holes are not symmetrical, and
every-other panel should be turned over so that the holes
alternate from side to side.
A
s you progress, and the panels are moving up the back of
the machine, it takes a lot of effort to push them down. This is
normal. You will need to hold the panels in front to keep them
from sliding up.
 Use short pieces (12" or so) of 2x3 lumber to jam the
wall. Simply slip them between panels at the bottom of
the wall on each side. As the panels try to ride up, the
block will hold them in place.
.
 Bolt on the panels until there are only three left.