Brother Serger 1034D User manual

Serger Techniques
Table of Contents
Balanced Serger Stitches .......... .... . ... 1 Flatlock
Applique .. .. ................ .. .. .. ....6
Fo
ur -Thread Serging .. ........... ... .. . ... ..1 Decorative
Lace
Reinforci ng Tape Application ........ .. 1 and Tape
Application .............. .. .. ......7
So ft Gathering ......... ... .. .. ... . .. ..... .. .....2 Rolled Edge .
... .. ... .. ..... .. ............ ... .. .. ... 7
Three-Thread
Se r ging ... ... . .. ........... .. 2
Napkin Fin i sh Rolled Edge ................8
Edge
Hemming a nd Finishing .... ... . .. 2 Tablecloth Edging .
... . .. ........... ... . .. .. ....8
Lingerie Seams .............................
.. . .. 3 Formal and Bridal
Wear ...... ... .. . .... ....9
Lace
Joining ........................ ... . ... .. .....3 Scarf Edge Rolled Hem ........
... . .. .... ... .9
Mu l tipurpose Guide Foot .... ... ....... .. 4
Spaghetti Straps .. .. ..... .. .. .. . ...... .. ...... .. 9
D
ur able Three-Thread Blind Hem .. .. 4 Fabric Flowers
...... . .. .......... .. .... .. ... ... .1O
Decorative Serging .........
.. .. .. .... .. .......4 Stitch
Variat ions - Heirloom .. .. . ... .. 10
Decor ative Thread Serging .. ....... ... . .5
Pin Tucking .. ....... .. ..... .. .. ............... ... 11
Basic Three-Thread Flatlock.... .. . .. .... .5
Heirloom Lace Insertion ... .. ............. 11
Flatlock Topstitching . .. . ... .... ... ..........6 Gathering Foot Quick Start Guide .. .. 12

Balanced Serger Stitches
Four-Thread
Serging
Stitch
four-thread
mock safety stitch
Left needle 4.0
Right needle 4.0
Upper looper 4.0
Lower looper 4.0
Thread standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger on
Fabric any
Stitch length 3.0- 4.0
Foot all purpos e
• Balanced stitches are used in
construction applications such as seams,
overcasting,
edgings and finishes.
• A balanced
three - or four-thread stitch has both looper threads meeting
or knitting at the outside edge of your fabric.
See your manual for more informat i on on balancing a stitch.
• The four - thread stitch is also called the mock safety stitch.
• This stitch creates a very
durable yet flexible seam.
• The
four - thread stitch is created by using both needles and the loopers.
• The
right (or inside) needle creates a safety stitch between the left (or
outside needle) and the fabric edge .
~
~---------- - __________ __,_
l
Reinforcing Tape Application
Stitch
Left needle
Right needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
Thread
Removable
stitch finger
Fabric
Stitch length
Foot
four - thread
mock saf e ty stitch
4.0
4.0
4.0
4.0
standard s ewing
on
any
3.0- 4.0
all p urpo se
Shoulder seams often sag if not reinforced or stabilized.
• To reinforce a seam, simply place a length of narrow twill tape along the
seam line before sewing and serge it into the seam.
•
If you want the tape to be less visible, substitute a coordinating narrow
washable satin ribbon for the twill tape .
•
Be sure that your needles catch the tape securely.
1

Soft Gathering
Stitch
four-thread
mock safety stitch
Left needle
5.0
Right needle
5.0
Upper looper
4.0
Lower looper 4.0
Differential
2.0
Knife
5.0
Thread
standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger
on
Fabric
lightweight
Stitch length 4.0
Foot
all purpose
Three-Thread Serging
Stitch
three-thread stitch,
wide or narrow
Left needle 4.0 (wide) or
Right needle 4.0 (narrow)
Upper looper 4.0
Lower looper
4.0
Differential
0-2.0
Knife
4.0 - 5.0
Thread
standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger on
Fabric (wide)
medium to
heavyweight knits
Fabric (narrow)
light to medium
weight knits
Stitch length
3.0 - 4.0
Foot
all purpose
• Using the four-thread stitch and your differential, you can make softly
gathered ruffles instantly.
•
Use the set-up information and simply serge the top edge of your fabric
and create your ruffle.
• Balanced three-thread seams have more stretch than a four-thread stitch
and are generally used in construction of knit garments.
• Three-thread stitches are created by using only 1 of the 2 needles.
•
Use the left needle for a wider stitch.
•
Use the right needle for a narrow stitch.
- 7
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• Decorative stitches are generally three -thread stitches.
Edge Hemming and Finishing
2
• Edge finishing or overcasting is a good way to keep woven fabric
from raveling.
• A balanced three-thread stitch is a perfect lightweight finish .

Lingerie Seams
Stitch
three-thread
narrow stitch
Right needle 4.0
Upper looper
4.0
Lower looper 4.0
Differential 0 -1 .5
Thread standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger on or off
Fabric tricot
Foot all purpose
Lace Joining
Stitch
three -thre ad
narrow stitch
Right needle 4.0
Upper looper 4.0
Lower looper
4.0
Differential 0 -1 .5
Thread
standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger off
Fabric
lace
Stitch length
2.5- 3.5
Foot
all purpos e
• A balanced
three-thread stitch is a perfect lightweight seam for lingerie.
•
By removing the stitch finger, you can attain a very narrow and light-
weight seam for lingerie .
•
Experiment with the upper and lower looper tensions to create the per-
fect seam and finish for your lingerie project .
• The serger
is a good way to join laces and finish the edge at the
same time .
•
Use the set up at left and you are ready to join laces beautifully
and professionally.
3

Multipurpose Gui de Foot
• The blind hem foot is also called the multipurpose guide foot .
• The
guide is movable from left to right and can be used with the left
or right needle.
• We
use this foot in many decorative stitch applications to guide
our fabric.
Durable Three-Thread Blind Hem
Stitch three-thread
wide stitch
Left need le 2.0
Upper loop er 5.0
--
Lower loope r 3.0
-- --
Different i al
0 -1.5
Knife 5.0
--
Thre ad
standard sewing
Removable
stitch fi nger on
Fab ric
woven/knit
S ti tch le ngth 4.0
F oo t blind hem
Decorative Serging
4
• The blind hem is basic to knit sewing . This hem is lightweight, offers
stretch and is nearly invisible.
•
Use your blind hem foot . You will need to practice on a scrap of your
fabric to get the guide adjusted correctly.
• This
adjustment will change according to the weight or thickness of
your fabric.
For
more information , please see your machine manual .
~1
~
• By unbalancing your tensions, you can create some very interesting
effects. We call this decorative serging or serger embellishing .
•
Adding decorative threads to your serging creates many beautiful
opportunities for creative serging.
Hint: Once a serger stitch
is formed, it is a circle of thread . When we tighten
one thread, it pulls on another thread . When we lighten tension on
one thread, it allows itself and another to relax or move within the
circle. Thinking of the stitches in this way will help you to create the
look that you want with your choice of threads .
Learning: Set
your serger for a balanced wide three - thread stitch as shown
earlier in this book. Loosen your needle tension to #2. Serge on a
scrap
for about 2 inches. Begin to serge again but try applying a light
pinch pressure to one looper thread (just above the tension) and then
the other . Observe the changes that occurred on the serged scrap.
Next, set
the tensions back to a balanced stitch. Loosen one of the
looper tensions and pinch the threads in turn again while serging.
Observe
the changes to the stitch formation .

Decorative Thread Serging
Basic Three-Thread Flatlock
Stitch flatlock
Left needle
1.0 (wide) or
Right needle
1.0 (narrow)
Upper looper 4.5
Lower looper 7.0- 8.0
Differential 0
Knife
3.0- 4.0
Thread
standard se wing
Removable
stitch finger
on
Fabric
any
Stitch length 3.0 - 4.0
Foot
all purpose
• Decorative threads can be used in both the needles and the loopers.
• Decorative threads vary in
weight, fiber , shape and thickness.
• The
thicker the thread, the lighter the tension needed.
• Thickness
of thread is usually indicated on the spool. The lower the
number, the thicker the thread.
• Heavier decorative threads are used in the loopers only .
•
Most machine embroidery threads are #40 to #50 weight and can be used
in
your serger needles or loopers.
• Flatlock
is a technique in which we unbalance the stitch to create the
stitch that we want .
• Flatlock can be used
to join two fabrics or serged on a fold .
• We can
use the stitch loop side or the ladder side as the top side.
•
When stitching on a fold, or anytime you don't want to cut the edge,
use the guide foot to guide your fabric and protect the edge.
1/l ~- ~ ~
la
L Stitch Loop Side
Ladder Side
•
To achieve a flatlock, our needle thread tension is loosened and our lower
looper thread is tightened
• The lower looper will pull the needle thread across the back of the fabric.
•
Note the reverse side of the stitch, the needle thread forms V's .
• The
lower looper should be almost a straight line at the fabric edge.
5

Flatlock Topstitching
Stitch flatlock
--
Left needle 1.5- 2.0
Upper looper 2.0- 3.0
-
Lower looper 7.0 - 8.0
Differential 0-0 .7
Knife disabled
Thread decorative heavy
Removable
stitch finger on
Fabric any
Stitch length 2.0 - 5.0
Foot blind hem
Flatlock Applique
Stitch flatlock
Left needle 2.0
Upper looper 2.5
Lower looper 6.0- 8.0
Differential 0-0.7
Knife 5.0
Thread decorative heavy
Removable
stitch finger on
Fabric any
Stitch length R- 3.5
Foot
blind hem
6
• Set your machine using the settings below . Test your stitch on a scrap of
fabric and adjust tensions if needed.
• Serger
topstitching can be done in the body of the fabric by serging on a
fold and opening it .
• Serger
topstitching can be used to seam two fabrics together. Remember
to lay the wrong sides of the fabr ic together before serging.
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Flatlock can give a great eye-catching finish to a plain edge ribbon, lace or
fabric strip while attaching at the same time .
1.
Attach the multipurpose foot guide and test a scrap of folded fabric.
Adjust the guide until the serger loops hang over the edge of the fold
slightly.
2. Simply mark your fabric where you want the applique . The easiest way
to do this is to press the two folds where you want the applique to fit.
3. Lay your appli que piece on the fabric, matching the edge with the fold,
and place under the presser foot against the guide .
4. Serge the applique and fabric to the end. Cut chain and open the fabric
so the fabric lays flat .
5. Turn
your fabric and fold the second marking fold . Make sure that the
applique piece lays flat on the fabric and meets the fold .
6. Place the fabric applique on top under the foot and against the guide.
7. Serge this side of the applique and fabric to the end. Cut chain and
open
the fabric so the flatlock lays straight .

Decorative Lace and Tape Application
Stitch
Left needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
Differential
Knife
Thread
Removable
stitch finger
Fabric
Stitch length
Foot
Rolled Edge
Stitch
Right needle
Upper looper
Lower looper
Differential
Knife
Thread
Removable
stitch finger
Fabric
Stitch length
Foot
flatlock
2.0
2.5
6.0 - 8.0
0- 0.7
3.0- 5.0
decorative heavy
on
any
R- 3.5
blind hem
rolled edge
4.0
4.0
7.5
0.7
6.0
standard
off
soft, very
lightweight woven
2.0 - 3.0
all purpose
These are quick and easy ways to apply ribbon or lace to garments or craft
projects. Flatlocking lace to the body or the edge of your fabric adds a
beautiful look.
1. Attach the multipurpose foot guide, set up your machine using the
instructions at left and test a scrap of folded fabric. Adjust the guide
until the serger loops hang slightly over the edge of the fold.
2. Simply mark your fabric where you want the lace to be sewn. The easiest
way to do this is to press a fold where you will place the lace.
3. Lay your lace on the fabric matching the edge with the fold and place
under the presser foot against the guide.
4. Serge
the lace and fabric to the end. Cut chain and open the fold so the
fabric lays flat .
Flatlocking
ribbon is similar to flatlocking lace. Choose a ribbon that will fit
between the needle and the edge of the fabric. Take care not to let the
needle pierce the ribbon while sewing.
The rolled edge and its variations are probably the most used and versatile
of all decorative stitches. Variations of the rolled edge make the perfect
hems or edgings for napkins, curtains, ruffles, scarves, tablecloths, and so
much more! At left are the set up instructions for the basic rolled edge.
General rules: Tension and stitch-length settings will vary with the threads
you use. Knife settings will vary with the fabric you use.
7

Napkin Finish Rolled Edge (narrow)
Stitch narrow rolled edge
Right needle
4.0
Upper looper
5.0
Lower looper 7.0
Differential
0.07 - 0
Knife 3.0 - 5.0
Thread standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger
off
Fabric
lightweight woven
Stitch length R
Foot all purpose
Tablecloth Edging (wide)
Stitch
rolled edge wide
Left needle 4.0
Upper looper
5.0
Lower looper
7.0
Differential 0.
07 - 0
Knife 5.0 - 6.0
Thread standard sewing
Removable
stitch finger off
Fabric light to
heavyweight woven
~-
Stitch length R- 3
Foot all purpose
8
• Using the set up instructions at left, set your serger for rolled edge .
Check
your manual for information about removing the stitch finger .
• The set
up instructions reflect tensions using standard sewing thread.
You may have to adjust any tension setting for changes in thread type.
• Always allow your knife to shave the edge of your fabric creating an
even and consistent
fabric edge.
NOTE: Fabric
that has an uneven texture may not be successfully edged with
a narrow rolled hem .
• Some fabrics are
too heavy or too loosely woven to roll successfully using
the narrow rolled hem .
• Try
the set up at left and create a wide rolled hem .
•
If the fabric doesn't roll, lengthen the stitch. The longer the stitch, the
more able it is to roll a heavier fabric.
• This hem also gives a l
ittle more body to medium weight fabric.

Formal and Bridal Wear
Scarf Edge Rolled Hem
Stitc h
narrow rolled edge
Right needle
4.0
Upper loope r
4.0
L ower loop er
7.5
Differential
0.7
Knife
6.0
Th read #40
Remov abl e
st itch finger
off
Fabri c
soh, very
lightweight woven
Stitch length
2.0 - 3.0
Foo t
all purpose
Spaghetti Straps
St itc h
very narrow
balanced
Right needl e
4.0
Upper loo per 4.0
Lo wer looper
4.0
Differential 0
Knife
2.0 - 3.0
T hread
standard sewing
Removable
st i tch finger
off
Fabric
lightweight
Stitch length
2.0 - 3.0
Foot
all purpose
Beautiful effects can be created for formal wear using your serger and
a
few simple techniques .
•
Chiffon and satin, as well as other delicate fabrics, require a delicate hem.
• The scarf edge
rolled hem is perfect for these applications .
Spaghetti straps are a must for formal and bridal wear, lingerie, and many
other applications .
1. Cut 1 ¼" strip
of bias or knit fabric and fold in half lengthwise .
2. Place
folded strip under the presser foot (fold to the left) and serge the
two raw edges together making sure to leave at least 3" of serger chain.
3. Thread
the serger chain through a tapestry or yarn needle eye and
knot it to hold to chain securely. (No appropriate needle? A bobby pin
will do!)
4. Feed the needle and chain through the inside of the tube and turn the
strap right side out as you go .
9