Dillenger LEGACY User manual

LEGACY
User Manual
This manual describes how to safely complete nal assembly
and includes tips for use and maintenance
English

2
SAFETY
PLEASE NOTE
Mechanical Safety Check:
Routinely check the condition of your bike. Make sure no fasteners have come loose. Perform
a visual inspection of the whole bicycle before every ride. Make sure tyres are correctly inated
within the range given on the tyre sidewall. Check your brakes for proper operation.
Your First Ride:
Be sure to pick an area away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or other hazards to become
familiar with the controls, features and performance of your new electric bike.
We highly recommend the purchase of the Dillenger electric bike repair
toolkit. It will make your setup and ongoing maintenance much easier.
This can be purchased online.
Thank you for purchasing your new Dillenger electric bike! We know you’ll love it, and with some
care it should last for a very long time. Please read through this manual carefully before
beginning nal assembly.
THANK YOU

3
ITEM CHECK LIST
Each electric bike is assembled under the most strict quality control standards. Upon
completion, each electric bike is test ridden by a technician inside the assembly factory to
check that every function and adjustment on the bike is perfect.
Item Check list:
• Electric bike with front wheel and handlebars
• Charger box (this may container other important parts)
• Pedals (left and right) please note the left and right pedals are not identical
• Any loose boxes may container other parts, such as a light (if where a light is provided or
purchase) so please check all packaging thoroughly

4
Contents
THANK YOU 2
SAFETY 2
ITEM CHECK LIST 3
SUMMARY OF FINAL SETUP 5
UNBOXING 6
MAIN PARTS 7
FRONT WHEEL 9
HANDLEBARS 10
PEDALS 13
SEAT 14
BATTERY OPERATION 15
LCD OPERATION 17
IMPORTANT POINTS 17
CHARGING 18
MAINTENANCE 19
TROUBLESHOOTING 20
TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED... 21
TROUBLESHOOTING CONTINUED... 22
Your Dillenger bike is fully assembled in our factory and tested to our high standards.
To t into an appropriately sized shipping carton to comply with the various courier
networks, some basic parts of the bike are temporarily removed. This is so that the bike
can t into the shipping carton safely, and so that we can adequately package each part of
the bike so that it is delivered in perfect condition.
These simple instruction will show you how to perform the nal setup. Your bike may
arrive in a more assembled state than what is shown here. These are the steps required
for most customers (packaging and nal assembly can vary by country).
In summary, these are the main steps.
Step 1, Unpacking/ Unboxing
Step 2, Identify the pieces that require nal assembly
Step 3, Front wheel fastening
Step 4, Handlebar alignment and fastening
Step 5, Left and right side pedals
Step 6, Seat
Tools required:
Allen keys (5 and 6mm)
Spanner (15mm)
These are provided and can be found in the charger box.
Other equipment not provided:
Bike pump (or service station car tyre pump)

SUMMARY OF FINAL SETUP
5
Your Dillenger bike is fully assembled in our factory and tested to our high standards.
To t into an appropriately sized shipping carton to comply with the various courier
networks, some basic parts of the bike are temporarily removed. This is so that the bike
can t into the shipping carton safely, and so that we can adequately package each part of
the bike so that it is delivered in perfect condition.
These simple instruction will show you how to perform the nal setup. Your bike may
arrive in a more assembled state than what is shown here. These are the steps required
for most customers (packaging and nal assembly can vary by country).
In summary, these are the main steps.
Step 1, Unpacking/ Unboxing
Step 2, Identify the pieces that require nal assembly
Step 3, Front wheel fastening
Step 4, Handlebar alignment and fastening
Step 5, Left and right side pedals
Step 6, Seat
Tools required:
Allen keys (5 and 6mm)
Spanner (15mm)
These are provided and can be found in the charger box.
Other equipment not provided:
Bike pump (or service station car tyre pump)

6
UNBOXING
Unboxing your Dillenger will be very exciting, but it’s important to take care when
unboxing the bike as it’s possible to accidentally damage the bike or misplace crucial
parts. It’s also much easier to unbox the bike with someone to help you.
Remove the protective packaging from the bike carefully with a pair of scissors or a box
cutter. Make sure you don’t misplace any components in the lose packaging (there can be
quite a lot of protective packaging used).
After you’ve taken your Dillenger out of it’s shipping carton, you should have these parts:
1. The Complete Bike
2. Front Wheel
PLEASE NOTE
The keys will be securely fastened to the frame or handlebars of
your bike. Make sure you do not lose these as they are coded and a
replacement set can only be tted in a Dillenger factory.

7
MAIN PARTS
After you’ve taken your Dillenger out of it’s shipping carton, you should have these parts:
1. The Complete Bike
2. Front Wheel

8
3. Handlebars (Attached by the Cabling)
4. Charger
5. Pedals
Note: These can be in the same box as the charger, or fastened to the bike separately.
6. Seat
Note: These can be in the shipping carton or fastened to the bike separately.
Simply insert the front wheel into the front forks, with the brake disk lined up to t into
the brake calipers. Insert the washer on both sides of the wheel such that the ‘hook’ part
of the wheel ts into the slot where the axle enters. Screw on nuts and tighten with 15mm
spanner.
Note: It may be easier to do this step with the bike ipped over on its seat and handlebars. Just
be careful of the display on the ground you are constructing on.
Wheel is place into the axle slot on the front forks
Washer is place on axle as shown above and the nut is fastened securely

9
FRONT WHEEL
Simply insert the front wheel into the front forks, with the brake disk lined up to t into
the brake calipers. Insert the washer on both sides of the wheel such that the ‘hook’ part
of the wheel ts into the slot where the axle enters. Screw on nuts and tighten with 15mm
spanner.
Note: It may be easier to do this step with the bike ipped over on its seat and handlebars. Just
be careful of the display on the ground you are constructing on.
Wheel is place into the axle slot on the front forks
Washer is place on axle as shown above and the nut is fastened securely

10
Stem and handlebars are now in position on the headtube.
HANDLEBARS
The handlebars will be connected by the cables and wires, all that’s required for nal
setup is to mount the handlebar stem onto the head tube as shown here:
You can remove a number of the black spacer rings on the head tube, leaving 2. These 2
can be placed in any arrangement. In these photos we have the handlebars in the highest
position, with 2 spacers under the stem. Make sure none of the cables are twisted or
too tight (you may have the handlebars twisted). Tighten as shown here, making sure
the handlebars are aligned to the front wheel. This step fastens the stem down onto the
headtube to remove any vertical play:

11
Stem and handlebars are now in position on the headtube.

12
All bicycles (electric bikes included) have left and right side pedals. Make sure you identify
each one. This image shows how to identify each pedal. You can see the ‘R’ written on
this pedal, denoting this is the right side pedal, to be used on the right side of the bike (if
you were sitting on the bike).
The right side pedal mounts to the right side crank (if you were sitting on the bike) and
left side pedal on the left crank. The right side pedal is a right hand thread, it will tighten
by turning clockwise (normal). The left side pedal is a left hand thread and will tighten
by turning anticlockwise (opposite normal). It is essential not to confuse which pedal is
used where and not to cross thread the pedal. If it feels too tight, you might have made a
mistake.
The pedals are designed this way so that the act of pedaling (while riding) does not
loosen the pedals over time.
Screw in the pedals as described above for both left and right. Depending on the type of pedal
they can be tightened using an allen key on the inside as shown above or by tightening with a
spanner inbetween the pedal and the crank (model dependant).
Align the handlebars and fasten the stem onto the headtube. Tighten each side evenly.
This is the nal step in fastening the handlebars correctly.
Align the handlebars and fasten the stem onto the headtube by tightening each allen bolt
evenly using the provide allen keys

13
PEDALS
All bicycles (electric bikes included) have left and right side pedals. Make sure you identify
each one. This image shows how to identify each pedal. You can see the ‘R’ written on
this pedal, denoting this is the right side pedal, to be used on the right side of the bike (if
you were sitting on the bike).
The right side pedal mounts to the right side crank (if you were sitting on the bike) and
left side pedal on the left crank. The right side pedal is a right hand thread, it will tighten
by turning clockwise (normal). The left side pedal is a left hand thread and will tighten
by turning anticlockwise (opposite normal). It is essential not to confuse which pedal is
used where and not to cross thread the pedal. If it feels too tight, you might have made a
mistake.
The pedals are designed this way so that the act of pedaling (while riding) does not
loosen the pedals over time.
Screw in the pedals as described above for both left and right. Depending on the type of pedal
they can be tightened using an allen key on the inside as shown above or by tightening with a
spanner inbetween the pedal and the crank (model dependant).

14
The battery for your Dillenger is the most expensive single component and the most
crucial. The battery can be removed following these steps. Use the key provided to unlock
the battery:
The key is placed in the key hole
Turn the key from locked to unlcocked and pull on the battery handle to remove battery
SEAT
This is the easy part. Simply insert your seat to the desired height (about hip height) as
shown below:
The seat clamp is aligned with the groove and loosly tightened using thumb screw
The seat is placed into the hole and adjusted to the desired height then the clamp is closed to
lock the seat in position

15
BATTERY OPERATION
The battery for your Dillenger is the most expensive single component and the most
crucial. The battery can be removed following these steps. Use the key provided to unlock
the battery:
The key is placed in the key hole
Turn the key from locked to unlcocked and pull on the battery handle to remove battery

16
You must remove the battery to charge. For transport by car, we recommend taking the
battery out of the bike and storing inside the car, in a safe place. When mounting the
battery back into the frame, insert it in the same fashion that it was removed. The base of
the battery should be inserted rst. It should be rmly against the bottom of the cavity.
Then rotate the top of the battery into the battery cavity. It is a tight t and this may take a
couple of attempts to become procient.
It is very important that the battery is locked into place before you use the bike again. Pull
gently on the battery handle to make sure it is denitely locked.
The battery is removed before transport or to charge
Place the battery back into the chassis and checked that it is secure by gently pulling the handle
We have an LCD manual on the product page online, or follow this link:
Dillenger C965 Manual
Please consider these important points for best use:
Keys:
The keys for your bike are zip tied to your handlebars. You will have 2 keys so please keep
one as a spare separately. Replacing keys can only be done in the Dillenger Warehouse.
Battery Indicator:
The battery light indicator on the battery is not an indication of battery charge. The only
approximation of battery charge level is on the LCD display. The only accurate way to
know that the bike is 100% charged is by charging it until the charger light shows it is
fully charged (next page). Conversely, the only way to accurately know that the battery
is at is to use the bike until the LCD cuts out and does not turn back on. You do not risk
damaging the electric system by running the bike at. Just make sure you charge the bike
after every ride.
Maintenence:
Make sure you routinely check the tightness of key fasteners (nuts and bolts) such as the
front wheel, rear wheel, seat, handlebars, forks, pedals, brakes, etc.
Battery Charge:
Make sure you keep the battery topped up as often as practical. Charge the bike after
every use, at least once a month if not being used and before each ride if you have not
charged it in a week. It is not necessary to run the battery down at all. Leaving the battery
at runs the risk of completely depleting the cells which could cause premature battery
failure.
Tyre Pressure:
Make sure your tyres are pumped up to the correct PSI, which is indicated on the tyre side
wall.
Power Switch:
The battery has an on/o switch located near the handle. You must turn the switch on
before powering up the bike, and turn it o after use. The LCD display turns the system
on, once the battery is turned on.

17
LCD OPERATION
We have an LCD manual on the product page online, or follow this link:
Dillenger C965 Manual
IMPORTANT POINTS
Please consider these important points for best use:
Keys:
The keys for your bike are zip tied to your handlebars. You will have 2 keys so please keep
one as a spare separately. Replacing keys can only be done in the Dillenger Warehouse.
Battery Indicator:
The battery light indicator on the battery is not an indication of battery charge. The only
approximation of battery charge level is on the LCD display. The only accurate way to
know that the bike is 100% charged is by charging it until the charger light shows it is
fully charged (next page). Conversely, the only way to accurately know that the battery
is at is to use the bike until the LCD cuts out and does not turn back on. You do not risk
damaging the electric system by running the bike at. Just make sure you charge the bike
after every ride.
Maintenence:
Make sure you routinely check the tightness of key fasteners (nuts and bolts) such as the
front wheel, rear wheel, seat, handlebars, forks, pedals, brakes, etc.
Battery Charge:
Make sure you keep the battery topped up as often as practical. Charge the bike after
every use, at least once a month if not being used and before each ride if you have not
charged it in a week. It is not necessary to run the battery down at all. Leaving the battery
at runs the risk of completely depleting the cells which could cause premature battery
failure.
Tyre Pressure:
Make sure your tyres are pumped up to the correct PSI, which is indicated on the tyre side
wall.
Power Switch:
The battery has an on/o switch located near the handle. You must turn the switch on
before powering up the bike, and turn it o after use. The LCD display turns the system
on, once the battery is turned on.

18
CHARGING
1. Plug the charger into the wall socket/
outlet, just like a laptop of mobile phone
charger.
2. Check that one of the charger indicator
lights glows green.
3. Plug the charger, (battery end) into
the battery carefully, making sure it is all
the way in. Do not force it if there is an
obstruction.
4. The charger indicator lights should glow
red whilst charging.
5. Once one of the charger indicator lights
changes from green to red, the battery is
fully charged.
There is no way to over-charge the battery.
When it is full, the charger will stop
charging the battery automatically.
Charging time can vary from 1 to 5 hours if
fully empty.
The battery should be charged once every
month as a minimum to maintain healthy
cells.
The best way to charge your battery is
to plug it in after every use, and leave it
on charge until the indicator light shows
the battery is fully charged. It is not good
practice to partially charge the battery.
Keep your bike clean! There’s nothing worse than having to work on a dirty bike...
Also keep in mind the usual bike maintenance like tyre pressures, brake pads, etc...
The motor is a sealed unit and requires no maintenance during the design life.
Lastly (just to reiterate) it’s important that you charge the battery at least once every month
to ensure the battery maintains a safe storage level.
A little extra maintenance is required over
and above a normal bicycle.
One of the main things you may come across
is that your spokes need to be tightened
more often than a non-electric wheel. Our
wheels use 12G and 13G spokes which
handle the load and torque of these motors
very well, but are more susceptible to
coming loose.
A spoke-tightening tool such as the one
including in the Dillenger hub motor
conversion toolkit, is ideal.
Check the tightness of each spoke ideally
after the rst 100km and then every 500km.
As well as caring for your spoke tension
it’s important to do a check on all of your
fasteners every few months. It never hurts to
go over your bike with tools, tightening and
checking everything that can be checked. This
will ensure you have a safe and well-serviced
bike.

19
MAINTENANCE
PLEASE NOTE
Any modications to any Dillenger product that isn’t approved by
Dillenger will void your warranty.
Keep your bike clean! There’s nothing worse than having to work on a dirty bike...
Also keep in mind the usual bike maintenance like tyre pressures, brake pads, etc...
The motor is a sealed unit and requires no maintenance during the design life.
Lastly (just to reiterate) it’s important that you charge the battery at least once every month
to ensure the battery maintains a safe storage level.
A little extra maintenance is required over
and above a normal bicycle.
One of the main things you may come across
is that your spokes need to be tightened
more often than a non-electric wheel. Our
wheels use 12G and 13G spokes which
handle the load and torque of these motors
very well, but are more susceptible to
coming loose.
A spoke-tightening tool such as the one
including in the Dillenger hub motor
conversion toolkit, is ideal.
Check the tightness of each spoke ideally
after the rst 100km and then every 500km.
As well as caring for your spoke tension
it’s important to do a check on all of your
fasteners every few months. It never hurts to
go over your bike with tools, tightening and
checking everything that can be checked. This
will ensure you have a safe and well-serviced
bike.

20
TROUBLESHOOTING
Fault Solution
Display turns on, but
motor does not
Activate
Check the motor plug from the controller. This is a very sti
connection and will not work unless the plug is all the way in to
the indicator line. The twisting of the handlebars can sometimes
cause the plug to pull out slightly if there is not enough slack in
the motor cable.
A high pitched rattling
noise can be heard
when accelerating
The vibration of the motor is very small, but at this frequency it
can do some odd things to the other components on the bike
if they are loose. For example a loose spoke or even a bolt on
your rear rack. If something is just a little bit loose, sometimes
this can reverberate and make a harsh high pitch rattling sound.
Nothing is broken or wrong, you just have to identify the loose
part!
Rim has a buckle or
spokes coming loose
all the time
We would recommend a competent wheel builder to x any
major spoke tension issues, however there are some really good
youtube tutorials on how to adjust spoke tension.
Spokes has snapped
or missing
Dillenger stocks spare spokes for very reasonable prices, just
check out our spares section online and you can nd the right
type and length for your product.
Display won’t turn
on, unless the battery
charger is plugged in
Check all the connections, make sure the battery is charged. If
the display turns on only when the battery charger is plugged in,
you will have to submit a service ticked with this information.
Dillenger’s troubleshooting advice will take you through a logical way to diagnose
any issues that may arise during installation and use.
Before commencing troubleshooting, disconnect all components. Do not short
cut this process. There are countless times a loose plug has caused grief. By
disconnecting all the plugs and then reconnecting just the crucial components, this
will solve any loose plug issue.
Go through one by one plugging in the other components (such as the e-brake
plugs or the motor cable) to see if any of these are the cause of the problem. In this
basic state you may discover the culprit quickly.