Ecosy+ MF12 User manual

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Ottawa MF12 Ecodesign Multi-fuel Stove +
MF12 With Stand

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USER GUIDE
PLEASE RETAIN THIS GUIDE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
Please read this user guide carefully when you assemble, install, operate and maintain your stove.
If you have any more questions, please contact your local dealer.
Warnings
MF12 may only be installed by registered members of a recognised competent person’s scheme
such as HETAS or under building control approval from your local authority.
Failure to do so will void the manufacturer’s warranty. This appliance must be installed in full compliance
of all current Building Regulations (Approved Document J) and local regulations. All local, national and
European standards must be complied with when installing this stove
Your Stove requires regular inspection, maintenance and the flue system swept once a year as a
minimum. Failure to do so will void the manufacturer’s warranty
MF12 stove are designed to burn wood or solid fuels only. Due care must be taken when the stove is in
operation as all external surfaces will become hot. Incorrectly installed heating appliances can cause
damage to property. It is common to experience excess fumes from the stove and/or paint upon initial
lighting as the coatings cure. Protective clothing must be worn when handling sealants, rope seals, glass,
adhesive & insulation. This stove must not be installed into a chimney shared with another heating
appliance or in a room containing any form of air extraction.

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Technical Specification
Before Installing Your Stove
Suitable ventilation must be provided for the installation of your stove for safe, efficient operation and
compliance with approved document J of the building regulations. Air vents must remain open at all
times and be free of any obstructions. Extractor fans must not be present in the same room as a heating
appliance. Please refer to the building regulations for minimum air vent sizes for your stove’s output.
This model is Cool Hearth Rated and can be installed on 12mm superimposed or decorative hearths.
These must measure a minimum of 840mm x 840mm. If installed on a constructional hearth in an
existing fireplace, this must extend a minimum 150mm from either side of the stove and a minimum
225mm to the front. ( 300mm recommended )
Pre-existing chimneys must be in good condition and lined with a 5” flexible chimney liner, as a
minimum. This can be stepped up to a 6” for example but cannot be reduced down. If a chimney does
not exist, a suitable insulated twin wall flue system must be connected to the appliance. Again, with a 5”
system as the minimum. All flue installations must be undertaken by a registered member of a
government approved competent persons scheme and under building control approval from your local
authority.
Chimney draw must be within specification for this stove to operate. 12 pascals. Anything higher requires
a draught stabiliser to prevent over firing.
Upon receipt of your stove, please ensure all insulating fire bricks are in position to the sides and
rear of the fire box and the baffle plates are secured in position as these may have become
misplaced during transit. The outlet collar and blanking plate are supplied with screws for
securely fixing to the top and rear outlets. If you are installing this stove in a Smoke Controlled
Zone, you must install the smoke control slide plate (found in the flue collar box) .
Please check all components of your stove are in good working condition prior to an initial burn.
Your stove has adjustable primary and tertiary air intakes below the door and a secondary air
intake above the door, an externally controlled riddling grate and door mechanism.
Model
Output
-Wood
Output
- Coal
Dimensions
Overall
Dimensions
Firebox
Fuel
Outlet Size
Outlet
Location
MF12
12.5kw
8.6kw
W550 x D570 x
H515 MM
W350 x D200 x
H575MM
Multifuel
130mm / 5”
Flue
Top & Rear

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Space for fire –Distances to Combustible Materials
Model
Distance to Combustibles –
Rear (mm)
Distance to Combustibles –
Side (mm)
Suitable For 12mm Hearth
MF12
700
400
YES
Basic Operation
Your stove comes equipped with 4 Main controls:
Primary Air Control (A) –The main air control, used predominantly during start-up/lighting of your
stove. This works on a push-pull slider system

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Tertiary Air Control (B) –Your tertiary air control allows you to control the amount of hot air fired into the
burning chamber to re-ignite the smoke for a more complete burn. This works on a push pull slider
Secondary Air Control (C) –This works on a left to right slider system and controls the flow of secondary
air into the stove. This air allows the stove burn to be controlled at a lower burn rate, as well as the air
wash that keeps the glass clean.
Riddler Control (D) –This is the control for the riddling grate. This works on a push-pull slider system
Lighting Your Stove
Your new stove is fitted with an adjustable primary air intake, controlled by the slider at the base of the
model, an adjustable secondary air intake positioned to above the door (which also controls the air wash
system) and an adjustable tertiary air intake, controlled by the bottom right-hand slider, for complete
combustion of all fuels. The air is drawn from the rear of the stove, through the direct air connection,
which allows for the connection of a direct air kit.
It is advised to light a number of small fires to ‘bed in’ your new stove and ensure the longevity of the
metal construction and any coatings. Creating too large a fire too soon can lead to warping of the body
of the stove as the metal expands and doesn’t reset. You should never use more than 2 quarter logs in
the firebox at the same time as this will lead to over firing and will void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Successfully lighting a fire can be inhibited by cold air in the flue and changeable weather conditions
(please see our section on Autumn & Spring Syndrome) and so our reverse fuel stacking method detailed
below provides the best chance of lighting a fire on all occasions as the initial heat created is targeted
upwards to warm the air within the flue rather than down into larger logs at the base of the fire box:
1.Check that both the primary, secondary and tertiary air intakes are in the open position.
2.Remove larger lumps of burnt material from the firebox, leaving a 1cm layer of fine ash to insulate the
grate.
3.Have to hand all fuel required; kindling (small and larger pieces), firelighters, matches and a selection
of logs ranging from small to large quarter pieces.
4.Create a grid of dry kindling using 6 pieces and place firelighters within the 4 squares of the grid.
5.Strike a match and light the firelighters within the grid of kindling and leave the door open.
6.As the kindling takes, gradually place larger kindling on top of the fire and leave the door open.

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7.Once the fire is established, spread the kindling a little to expand the fire bed using an appropriate
tool.
8.Place the smallest of your logs onto the fire being careful not to extinguish the flames and leave the
door open.
9.Gradually build the fire by adding larger logs and begin closing the door. Closing the door will reduce
the oxygen feeding the fire so this must be done gradually whilst checking the fire remains established.
10.Once the fire is fully established with the door closed, control the ongoing burn using the air intakes.
Wood requires an air supply from above for secondary combustion and is controlled by the secondary air
intake whereas coal requires this from below using the primary air intake.
11.Allow for a small build-up of ash when burning wood to insulate the fire box sufficiently or to remove
any unwanted ash build up, simply operate the externally controlled riddling grate.
12. To extinguish the fire, close the primary air intake fully and then the secondary. Do not completely
close all air intakes at once to allow the fuel to efficiently burn out. Once extinguished, close all air
intakes and dampers completely.
Spring and Autumn syndrome
Stoves utilise the effect of air current within the flue to both
exhaust the products of combustion and to induce air into the stove.
Normally, because the air within the house is warmer than the outside air the flue is exhausting air from
the stove even when it is not operating.
•A hot flue does not “draw” air into a stove, it is the differences of densities that motivate the lighter
gases upwards.
•The greater the temperature difference between the gases within the flue and the surrounding air, the
greater the difference in densities and the greater the motivation.
•The taller the flue, the greater the weight of the equivalent volume of denser air, the greater the
motivation.
During the changeable weather conditions of Spring and Autumn the outside temperature can rise
suddenly and become warmer than the temperature within the house.
This causes the air within the flue to reverse its normal flow pattern and air travels down the flue. The
most obvious outcome of this will initially be a smell from the flue and while this is not harmful it may be
unpleasant if the flue has not been swept as often as it should have been.

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Because of the warmer outside temperature, the house will feel colder than it is, and the desire to light
the stove and at least match the outside temperature will reveal another problem, the stove will not
light.
If sufficient air is coming down the flue the stove will appear to begin its lighting cycle, but smoke will
emanate from what are normally air inlets and into the room.
The stove may continue to operate in this fashion for a considerable time but because the flue is
operating in reverse there is no possibility of any warm air produced by the stove travelling up the flue to
warm it, and reverse the flow.
If the house feels colder than the outside temperature, do not light the stove without clarifying that the
air is travelling up, rather than down, the flue.
As mentioned previously, a smell of soot is an indication that the flue is operating in reverse but by
opening the stove’s door and placing a hand within the stove, it should be possible to confirmthe air
flow. Leaving the stove door open for a few minutes may allow enough air through the flue to warm its
fabric sufficiently, to at least stall the air flow, which will make lighting possible.
If you have cold air continuously sinking down the chimney you need to try and get as much heat in the
chimney, as quickly as possible. This can be achieved by lighting a few sheets of news paper on some
very thin pieces of kindling. The objective is to get that sudden burst of heat up the chimney, to reverse
the negative flow.
Over Firing
Over firing any stove is dangerous and means the stove is being used beyond its capacity. If the burner or
connections glow red, the appliance is being over fired and will void your warranty. The same applies if
the internals for your stove gain a reddish tinge which is a common feature of an over-fired stove.
Under Firing
When fuel is burnt slowly it will produce higher levels of moisture, tar and creosote which will create
condensation and deposits in the chimney. If you are to burn your stove at a reduced rate, it must be
combined with periods of fast burning to clean the stove. Under firing can be caused by the burning of
wet wood. When burning wet wood the stove does not get hot, as you are effectively boiling the water
in the wood.

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Slow combustion
Should you wish to burn your stove at a slow rate, light the stove in the normal way to achieve nominal
burn. Once optimum flue temperature has been achieved, close the primary air control and reduce the
secondary air control to no more than 25%. This will allow the fuel to burn slowly whilst still emitting a
comfortable heat.
Refuelling onto a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke
emission can occur. Refuelling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash
that the new fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire bed,
add suitable kindling to prevent excessive smoke
Fuel overloading
The maximum amount of fuel specified in this manual should not be exceeded, overloading can cause
excess smoke.
Ash Removal
The supplied ash pan must be emptied regularly and never allowed to build up to touch the underside of
the multifuel grate. Some fuels will create more denser deposits than others. Ensure that you clean the
stove on a regular basis.
Fuel Guide
Wood fuel naturally has high water content and is not suitable for combustion until seasoned for
approximately two years to achieve a moisture level below 20%. Only then can this be used in your
stove. Wood fuel purchased from an approved source may still require some drying out to remove
surface water before use. We recommend only using fuel from approved Woodsure suppliers –look for
the Woodsure –Ready to Burn logo.
High density hardwood has a slow, steady output producing twice the heat of softwood and is carbon
neutral. For perfect fuel storage, please allow for plenty of air to circulate your wood fuel.
Refuelling Periods and Procedure
The efficient burning of your stove depends on many factors. The type of fuel you use will define how
often you need to refuel the stove. Hard wood will burn longer and steadier than softer woods, which
will burn quickly and produce less heat. We advise the use of Seasoned Hard Wood in log sizes which do
not exceed the maximum log size.
We suggest that you refuel every 45 minutes to 1 hour, dependent on fuel.

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Wood fuel with water content greater than 20% (‘green wood’) must not be used for
combustion in a MF12 stove. The recommended maximum dimensions of wood logs are
as specified below:
Model
Maximum Length - mm
Maximum Diameter - mm
MF12
480
200
Any moisture must evaporate before the wood fuel will produce heat and during this process the wet
wood will create excessive tar and creosote deposits, damaging both your stove and chimney system and
increasing the risk of a chimney fire.
Never burn plastics, household waste or treated timber in your stove.
At nominal output, refuelling is required approximately every 45 mins - 1hr. When refuelling, open air
intakes to establish a hot bed of fuel and allow to burn at maximum output for a few minutes before
adjusting air intakes. If there is not a sufficient hot bed of embers when refuelling, smoke may be
emitted from the appliance. Use smaller logs or kindling to reduce this. Do not overload the fire box. Fuel
load should not rise above the insulating fire bricks and/or touch the baffle plate.
Operation with the door open can cause excessive smoke. Operation with the air controls or appliance
dampers open can cause excessive smoke. The appliance must not be operated with air controls,
appliance dampers or door left open except as directed in this user manual.
Maintenance
Your new stove must be regularly maintained.
The grate should be cleaned after use and free of heavy build-up of ashes to prevent this from burning
out, especially with the use of anthracite coals.
The stove, connectors and chimney should be swept regularly, recommended three times a year by
HETAS.
Please check fire bricks regularly. These will crack due to the heat of the stove, but this will not affect
operation or heat output. Replacement bricks can be purchased when they crumble or disintegrate.
Allow the stove to cool before cleaning surfaces with a soft brush or lint free cloth. Heat resistant
coatings are available to renew the finish.
Remove and clean the baffle plate once a month to remove tar and sooty deposits.

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Sooty deposits will be removed from the glass through the application of high heat (air wash) and can
also be cleaned when cool with a suitable glass cleaner.
Only replace stove glass with heat resistant glass. Wet logs, pokers and slamming will damage the glass.
Glass is not covered under any guarantee because of this.
Where a chimney has previously served an open fire, a second sweeping is recommended within a
month of using your stove as the higher temperatures may dislodge previously embedded soot and tar
deposits.
When not in use (through the summer months), it is advisable to ensure the stove is clear of all ash and
fuel and air in takes are left open to prevent condensation build up.
Do not modify your stove and ensure chimneys are clear before every heating season.
Rope seals will require checking and potentially replacing annually. Check all moveable parts regularly.
To monitor the output and efficiency of your stove, we recommend the use of a Stove Thermometer,
available from your local approved dealer.
To maximise the output and efficiency of your stove, we recommend the use of a Swift or Swift Plus
Stove Fan, available from your local approved dealer.
Trouble Shooting
The most common assumption amongst stove users is a fault with the stove. This is incredibly unlikely
due to the limited mechanical nature of a wood burner. Stoves are not designed to be airtight and the
effective lighting of a fire, control and draw is dictated by the chimney system which can easily over or
under draw due to many factors.
Fire Won’t Light
Is there sufficient ventilation in the room to supply air to the stove? A permanently open-air brick must
be installed with your stove and extractor fans must not be present. Are the air intakes open and free
from blockages? Is an approved fuel being used in line with the guide in this user manual? Has the
chimney been swept? Does the flue draw fall between the required levels?
Fuel Burns Quickly
Over firing occurs when too much air is being drawn into the stove due to the chimney system over
drawing. Do the doors close correctly? Are rope seals intact? Are the glass retaining clips loose? Is the
correct fuel being used? It is not unusual to require a draught stabilizer to reduce the draw on a stove
due to excessive flue draught.

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Blow Back
If the doors are closed prematurely or intakes are not open enough after refueling, small explosions can
force air through the seals of the stove.
Smoke Leaks From The Stove
As stoves become more insulated and efficient, greater care must be taken when re-fuelling to prevent
smoke from entering the room when opening the door. To minimise this, we recommend only re-fuelling
when the fuel has burned right down and then ‘burp’ the door by opening initially just a crack. Then
allow the airflow in the burning chamber to settle before completely opening the stove door and re-
fuelling.
If the chimney system has been installed in line with current building regulations by a registered installer,
this will always provide the required draw to remove all harmful gases and smoke from the fire box. If
smoke is emitted from the stove, please refer to your chimney installer.
If you are having persistent issues with smoke entering the room, then you may need to speak to your
installer again but issues to look at include; Is the system at least 4.5m? Are there any horizontal runs in
the flue system greater than 150mm? Is the chimney blocked? Are there strong
winds pushing the smoke back down the chimney? Is the flue diameter correctly sized? Are air vents
open? Is a correctly sized air brick installed in the room the stove is in?
Glass Blackens Quickly
The air wash system fitted as standard in a stove utilises the most effective system of warming the air
along the entire length of the fire box before jetting it down behind the glass. Increasing the heat and
opening the secondary air intake will clear the glass.
The Stove or Door Has Warped
This is due to over firing of the stove beyond its capacity. You must start with small fires over the course
of a few days to ‘bed in’ the stove before taking it to maximum output.
No Heat is Being Emitted
Hot air rises and will be lost up the chimney if this is not suitably capped off with a Chimney Closure Plate
(Register Plate) and sealed with a heat resistant cement or silicone. Is your chimney over drawing and
burning through fuel too quickly? Does your wood fuel have less than 20% moisture content? Is the
baffle plate sited correctly? Is your stove fitted too tight in the fireplace, without a good size gap around
it? The stoves works by air flowing around it, being heated up and pushed back into the room. If there is
no air flow around the stove, the heat will not floe back into the room.
Open the stove door and listen for wind up the chimney. If this is the case, install a draught stabiliser or
damper to prevent this. The

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Protection Against Fire Risk
When choosing where to site your stove, it is imperative that you adhere to the minimum distances to
combustible materials as quoted in this manual. During prolonged use of the stove, the radial area will
always be of an elevated temperature to the rest of the room.
Whilst the minimum distances are more than sufficient to fixed items, care should be taken to ensure
that items such as curtains, small soft furnishings such as padded foot stools etc are not likely to be
placed in this area.
Another risk factor to consider is the storage of logs around the stove area. If piled close to the sides of
the stove, heat will build up during the prolonged use of the burner. Over time, this will cause the core of
the logs to heat which could cause them to start smouldering. If this goes unnoticed, it can lead to
ignition of the logs.
If unsure, or in need of advice, please do not hesitate to contact either your installer or directly.
Chimney Fire Prevention
Causes
The biggest cause of chimney fires is a build-up of deposits such as wood tar or coal soot. As these build
up over time, the risk of chimney fire becomes greater. The deposits will release combustible volatiles as
they heat up from the fire below. Eventually, these may ignite if the temperature reaches ignition point.
The easiest and most effective way to stop this happening is regular cleaning of the flue/chimney. This
should be done in ratio to the fire usage. We recommend flue sweeping at least once a year.
How To Spot A Chimney Fire
The first sign of a chimney fire is a roaring noise. This is coupled with excess smoke pouring from the
chimney pot. If you see flames coming from the chimney, this will point to the whole flue being alight.
If you discover a chimney fire, please take the following action:
1.Call the fire brigade
2.Ensure all air vents and flue dampers are shut to reduce the chimney fire's oxygen supply
3.Move flammable materials, furniture, ornaments away from the fireplace
4.Feel the chimney breast throughout the house - if it is getting hot then move furniture away from it

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5.Do not pour water on the fire if you have a stove
6.Ensure the Fire Brigade can access the loft space Ultimately, ensure that you are safe from harm.
Your brand-new stove has been lovingly crafted and built to last and will be your companion for life if
cared for and maintained correctly.
It may be the industry standard to solely guarantee the body of a stove, but we understand that the safe,
efficient, ongoing operation of your stove involves much more.
Technical Drawings/ Performance Data
MF12
Wood
Anthracite
Nominal Heat Output kw
12.5 kW
8.6 kW
Total Efficiency %
81.0 %
75.5 %
Mean CO Emission (at 13% O2)
0.05%
0.08%
Flue Gas Mass Flow g/s
9.0
8.6
Mean Flue Gas Temperature °C
282°c
285°c

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Guarantee
The main body of your stove is guaranteed for 5 Years.
Incorrect use or installation not carried out by a registered HETAS installer will void the guarantee. The
only exceptions will be if the install has been signed off by your local authority or suitably qualified Oftec
installer. In addition to this the stove must be serviced annually by a suitably accredited chimney
sweep or stove installer. For example, HETAS / METAC / NACS. In this service any perishable parts that
are damaged will need replacing. Please keep hold of these receipts, as they will most likely be required
in an unlikely event that a claim was to be made. We will only ever be liable for the stove itself and will
not cover the cost of installation or de-installation of a product. We urge customers to check the stove
over prior to it being installed to double check there is no courier damage or obvious defects with the
stove. Any potential Issues are easier to resolve before the stove is installed.
Notes:
If a fire brick is only split but is still fully protecting the shell, then it does not always need replacing in the
service. They only need replacing when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s shell.
If the seal is leaking air into the fire this does need changing right away. Any excess air could cause the
burner to over fire. In some cases, the rope is fine and the handle simply needs adjusting to make the
door lock a little tighter.
If the glass is not split and is only crazed then it does not need replacing to keep in line with the
guarantee terms.
Please keep a record of all services as this will be required if a claim is ever put forward.
As a company we will only ever be responsible for the product itself and would not cover installation /
de-installation of any product that did have to replaced.
The guarantee period will begin when the stove has been invoiced. Please keep hold of your invoice as
this will be requested if a claim is started. If this is not provided upon request, we will not be able to
escalate your claim. The guarantee will begin from the sale date on the invoice and we do not cover any
cost incurred when removing faulty appliances or installing new ones, even if it has been proven that the
stove is faulty. For full guarantee details please visit www.ecosystoves.co.uk. With every claim we will
require a signed copy of the sign-off sheet.

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BROKEN FIRE BRICKS
It is common for vermiculite bricks to break. They are fully heat resistant but can be quite fragile.
The most common bricks to break are the base and back bricks as these take the brunt of abuse. To
ensure the longevity of your fire bricks, please ensure that you gently place fuel in the fire and do not
over stack fuel. We would also suggest leaving a small bed of ash in the fire at all times. This helps the
wood burn more efficiently and also acts a cushion between the log and the brick itself. If a brick is split it
will not need replacing and this could potentially happen at any point. We only suggest changing bricks
when they have crumbled away, exposing the stove’s body.

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BROKEN / CRAZED GLASS
The glass used in all fires is fully approved heat resistant ceramic glass. This glass will not break through
heat but can easily break if struck with a log or similarly hard object. This is why the glass is not covered
by any manufacturer of stoves. Common causes for glass breakages are customers closing the door when
a log is still sticking out. Glass will not always break straight away and can be chipped or weakened. It will
then often break at a different time with seemingly no contact. When replacing glass, ensure you only
pinch up the glass clips. If they are over-tightened it could cause the glass to break.
Cloudy, 'milky' or crazed glass is caused by unburned acidic condensates etching the ceramic glass and
unfortunately this cannot be easily removed. It is definitely not faulty glass but instead does have more
to do with the quality of the fuel that you burn and the way that you operate your stove (long
slumbering). This is less common on wood-only models as it is often caused by the high sulfur content in
some coals. It is, however, possible. If your glass is crazed, it does not need changing and is safe to use.

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Rusty Stove
All stoves on the market are either made from mild steel or cast iron. The mild steel models like this are
shot blasted and then painted with high temperature black paint. This will protect the stove but if the
stove remains damp or wet for a long time the oxidization process ( surface rusting ) will begin.
Over time, if your stove begins to develop rust it will either be caused by:
•The stove being kept in a damp environment –For example if the stove was left in a damp place for
a long time prior to fitting. Or, the stove is in a damp room and not lit too often.
•The chimney is leaking water onto the stove.
•The stove is being cleaned with a wet cloth and not dried quickly.
Luckily, the resolution for this is not too hard. In most cases the stove will just need a wipe down with a
dry cloth and touching up with some Calfire Flatt black paint. This will bring the paint back to a nice finish
and will not reappear, assuming the cause of the stove getting damp / wet has been rectified. Please see
the below attached picture as an example for a stove that is beginning to rust.

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We hope you enjoy your new stove!
All the best Ecosy+ Stove

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