ESP AC10E Instruction Manual

OWNER’S MANUAL & WARRANTY INFORMATION
VERSION 1.3

Congratulations on your new purchase and thanks for making ESP your
instrument of choice! ESP has been recognized for its high quality standards
and meticulous craftsmanship since the company was founded in 1975. Every
ESP instrument is inspected thoroughly by our quality control technicians prior
to shipping to your local dealer.
All ESP instruments are covered by our limited lifetime warranty so you can rest
assured that your new instrument will bring you many years of enjoyment.
Please take a few moments to read through this manual. It will provide you
with answers to many of your questions as well as inform you about the care
and maintenance of your new instrument.
CONTENTS:
GUITAR ANATOMY.................................................................2
GENERAL MAINTENANCE ......................................................... 2-3
TUNING YOUR GUITAR..............................................................3
STRINGS & TUNING MACHINES ..................................................... 3-5
NECK & TRUSS ROD.............................................................. 5-6
STRING ACTION ...................................................................6
INTONATION .....................................................................7
PICKUP ADJUSTMENT ............................................................ 7-8
CONTROLS & ELECTRONICS....................................................... 8-10
GUITAR BRIDGES .............................................................. 10-12
CHANGING STRINGS (Floyd Rose®Double-Locking Tremolo).............................. 12-14
BASS BRIDGES ...................................................................14
WARRANTY INFORMATION ...................................................... 15-16
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD ....................................................17
O W NER’S MANU A L & W A R RANTY INFORMATION
VERSION 1.3

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GUITAR ANATOMY
1. Tuning Key
2. Tuning Post
3. Truss Rod Cover
4. String Retainer
5. Nut (Locking)
6. Fingerboard
7. Frets
8. Position Markers
9. Neck Pickup
10. Bridge Pickup
11. Pickup Selector
12. Pickup Height Screw
13. Pickup Mounting Ring
14. Controls
15. Bridge (Tremolo)
16. Pivot Studs
17. Tremolo Arm
18. Strap Button
19. Headstock
20. Neck
21. Neck Bolts / Neck Heel
22. Neck Plate
23. Body
24. Tremolo Spring Cavity
25. Control Cavity
26. Battery Compartment
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Your ESP instrument is built to give you many years of satisfaction. Please keep in mind that keeping your
instrument functioning properly will require periodic care and maintenance. Follow the simple maintenance
guidelines outlined below to make sure your instrument continues playing properly and looking its best. Note:
Although your instrument has been inspected by our quality control team, ESP highly recommends that you
take your guitar to a qualified repair shop for an initial setup to be performed.As every player may have their
own setup preferences matched to their playing style, this will ensure that your guitar works best for you.
Cleaning
Cleaning your guitar regularly is one of the best ways to maintain the finish and prolong string life. Clean
your guitar after each use, making sure to wipe the fingerboard and strings as well as any of the plated
parts such as tuners, pickups, bridge etc. Make sure to remove all perspiration, as it can lead to corrosion
and rusting in metal hardware and strings. We recommend that all metal bridge parts be thoroughly
cleaned and lubricated each time when changing strings to prevent corrosion and rusting caused by
perspiration. For gloss-finished surfaces, such as the body, back of neck, and headstock, we recommend
using any type of polish formulated specifically for musical instruments. Use lightly with a soft guitar
polishing cloth or cotton rag. Using any other type of cloth will most likely scratch the finish on your
instrument. Do not use any solvents or abrasive cleaners! Note: To clean a satin finish, use a dry cloth
and simply wipe lightly to remove any dust or build-up.
Accessories
Be careful when using plastic, vinyl or synthetic leather guitar straps; guitar stands and wall hangers that use
surgical rubber tubing or any other accessories that may touch your instrument’s finish.These materials may
react with or cause damage to the finish on your Instrument. Before using any guitar strap with your guitar,
make sure the strap buttons and your strap are both secure when connected.A wooden guitar body can only
withstand so much force with the factory strap button screws and is intended for use under normal playing
conditions. If you intend to subject your guitar to more physical force than normal playing conditions, you
may want to use larger or longer screws. If you do decide to change your strap buttons or screws, make sure
the new buttons are installed correctly to avoid damaging your guitar (we suggest having a qualified repair
technician do this for you). Note: Any damage as a result of strap button failure or damage that occurs from
changing your buttons will not be covered under the ESP limited lifetime warranty.
Fingerboards
Rosewood and ebony fingerboards contain natural oils that may dry out over time. Sharp or protruding
fret edges as well as a lighter appearance in the color of the fingerboard may be indications of dry wood.
In either case, you may restore the wood to its original luster and prevent It from drying out by applying
some lemon oil periodically. Remove all the strings, then apply a small amount of the oil to a clean lint-
free cloth. Rub the oil into the entire fingerboard (only a small amount is needed).Wipe the fingerboard
immediately to remove excess oil using a clean lint-free dry cloth.
Storage
When not playing your guitar, keep it in its case. If you don’t own a case, we strongly recommend
purchasing an ESP hardshell case or gig bag. Using a case will offer the best possible protection against
damage and will keep your instrument from gathering dust, which makes it harder to clean. Keep your
guitar tuned to pitch under normal playing and storage situations. If you plan to store your guitar for a
long period of time, or when traveling by air, loosen the strings to relieve some of the tension, but don’t
remove them (One or two turns of each tuning key will be plenty).Always store your guitar at room
temperature. Avoid exposing your guitar to any extremely hot, cold, damp, or dry conditions. NEVER leave
your guitar in a hot or cold car or trunk–This will most likely cause severe damage to your guitar! Note:
Damage to your instrument caused by neglecting or subjecting your instrument to extreme temperatures
will not be covered under the ESP limited lifetime warranty.
TUNING YOUR GUITAR
Tune your instrument using the tuning keys to raise or lower the pitch. Note: On a guitar with a locking
tremolo system, you must first loosen the locking nut before you can adjust the tuning with the tuning
machines.Although locking tremolo systems have fine tuners located on the bridge, they only allow
limited (fine) tuning. Counter-clockwise rotation of the tuning keys will raise the pitch of the string while
clockwise rotation will lower the pitch of the string you are tuning. Tune your guitar starting with the
lowest to highest strings.After you have done this once, go back and double-check the tuning again.
On some instruments you will have to do this a few times, especially if the strings are new or you have
a guitar with a floating tremolo bridge.Tuning one string may affect the other strings and it is necessary
to recheck the tuning until all strings are staying at the desired pitch. Note: New strings tend to stretch
and detune until they settle. It is a good idea to stretch the strings when you have just put on a new set.
Do this after the initial tuning by bending notes and physically stretching each string by pulling away
from the fingerboard (be careful no to pull too hard as you may break a string that way). After thoroughly
stretching the strings repeat the tuning process. Note: For standard guitar and bass tunings please refer
to the chart under factory string gauges.
STRINGS & TUNING MACHINES
We strongly recommend that you change your strings fairly often. If you play daily, we recommend that you
change your strings every 1 or 2 weeks.A new set of strings will sound clear and precise, while an old set will
sound dull and can produce unusual buzzing and dead notes. If you notice that your strings have become dirty,
discolored, or produce an unusual buzzing or dull sound, then it is definitely time to put a new set of strings on
your guitar. Always check your new strings and make sure they are smooth and free of defects before installing
them. If there are any irregularities, such as kinks, twists, or any other manufacturing defects, they will cause
buzzing and untrue notes as well as sound distortion.We recommend replacing one string at a time, so that
all the tension is not taken off of the neck.This will make it easier to re-tune and setup the neck. If your
guitar has a double-locking tremolo, please refer to the section on re-stringing those models.
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String Gauges
ESP guitars are strung with the following gauges at our factory. Using the same gauge will probably save
you some time in setting up and re-tuning your instrument after you change the strings. Note: String gauge
is a matter of preference, and some players will be more comfortable using a different gauge than provided,
especially when using alternate tunings. If you wish to change to a heavier gauge of strings, please consult
a qualified repair technician to do this for you - using a heavier string gauge will require re-slotting the nut,
adjusting the truss rod and changing other settings and should only be done by a qualified repair technician.
Factory String Gauges & Tunings
String Gauge (Low to High) Tuning (Low to High)
6-str guitar w/trem 42/32/24/16/11/9 E/A/D/G/B/E
6-str guitar non-trem 46/36/26/17/13/10 E/A/D/G/B/E
7-str guitar & baritone 56/46/36/26/17/13/10 B/E/A/D/G/B/E
8-str guitar & baritone 68/56/46/36/26/17/13/10 F#/B/E/A/D/G/B/E
6-str baritone 56/46/36/26W/17/13 B/E/A/D/F#/B
6-str acoustic 52/42/32/24W/15/11 E/A/D/G/B/E
4-str bass 105/85/65/45 E/A/D/G
4-str bass (Detuned) 130/110/90/70 B/E/A/D
5-str bass 125/105/85/65/45 B/E/A/D/G
6-str bass 125/105/85/65/45/30 B/E/A/D/G/C
8-str bass 90/40, 70/35, 55/25, 40/20P E/A/D/G w/doubled octave strings
Stringing Your Guitar or Bass
When winding strings on to the tuning machine post, always wind them tightly
and evenly to avoid any slipping than can occur if there are any gaps.Always use
at least 2 or 3 winds around the post starting from top to bottom. As a rule of
thumb, use about and extra 5cm (2 inches) of slack when restringing a guitar
and about 8cm (3 inches) of slack when restringing a bass. For unwound,
or plain strings, follow the diagram (Figure 1) detailing how to install these
strings on to the post to prevent them from slipping.
1. Insert end of string into tuning post (make sure to leave enough slack for a few wraps around the post).
2. Wrap end of string clockwise around post and under the string where it goes into the post (counter-
clockwise when stringing tuners on treble side of headstock).
3. Pull end of string tight over itself making a sort of knot (end of string may then be bent down and cut
off cleanly near knot).
4. Tune to pitch, making sure the wraps wind neatly down the tuning post.
For tuning machine posts where the string must be inserted into the post (most bass tuners), the strings
must be cut to length in advance. Use a pair of string cutters and make sure to cut them long enough to
give enough wraps around the posts. (If you’re not sure, then it’s better to guess longer than shorter.You can
always cut more length off of the end of the string, but you can’t add any length once you’ve cut it).
Note: Strings are always wound clockwise around the posts on the bass side and counter-clockwise around
the posts on the treble side of headstock.
Note: If you have locking tuners on your guitar (Figure 2), then you don’t have to put any
winds on the post. Simply cut or loosen the old string and loosen locking pin by turning
thumbwheel counter-clockwise. Remove old string and feed new string through post-
hole.Tighten thumbwheel clockwise to lock the pin on to the string.Tune the string
to pitch without any wraps on the post and cut off excess string. Note: Do not
remove thumbwheel or use pliers to tighten/loosen locking tuning machines.
Note: If you have Gotoh locking tuners there is no thumbwheel located on
the backside of tuner. To string the guitar, simply feed string through and tune
as normal and string post will lock automatically. Tuner lock may be loosened
at the top of string post by using a straight screwdriver or small coin (counter-
clockwise on bass side of headstock / clockwise on treble side of headstock).
Tuning Machine Adjustment
Most ESP guitars have adjustable tuning machine heads. Many times,
these parts can loosen after time, so it is a good idea to check the
tension when changing strings. If you ever need to change the tension
or feel of a tuning machine head, simply tighten (clockwise) or loosen
(counter-clockwise) with a small Phillips or flathead screwdriver
(Figure 3).This screw should be snug, but be careful not to over-
tighten, as it is easy to strip the threading on the screw.
NECK & TRUSS ROD
All ESP instruments have an adjustable truss rod located inside of the neck. The function of a truss rod is to
provide adjustment against the string tension on the neck.The following are the most common reasons why
a truss rod adjustment might be needed: changing string gauge, changing tuning, environmental changes
such as heat or humidity. Your guitar will operate poorly if the truss rod is not adjusted properly, so it is
important to be able to recognize when your neck needs a truss rod adjustment. Truss rod adjustment should
be performed periodically in order to keep your guitar playing properly. Adjusting the truss rod is the first step
when setting up an instrument to play properly. You should always do the truss rod adjustment before setting
string action, as adjusting the truss rod will affect the height of the strings.
Note: Most all ESP guitars are built with two-way adjusting truss rods. An ordinary truss rod may be
loosened to the point where there is no more adjustment in the counter-clockwise direction. In most
cases, this means replacing the neck or using heavier string gauges to bring the neck back to where it is
not back-bowed. This will never happen with your guitar since it has a two-way adjusting truss rod.
Adjusting The Truss Rod
To adjust the truss rod, first locate the truss rod access at the headstock (Figure 4) or end of neck by body
joint (Figure 5), remove the truss rod cover, and insert the correct size allen wrench (4mm) or pipe wrench
(8mm) to adjust. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten.
Note: If your truss rod nut access is not visible, it is possible your
instrument has it located inside of the neck pocket (Figure 6) – this will
require the neck to be taken off of the body to adjust the truss rod.
Note: Truss rod adjustments should only be performed by a qualified
technician. Improperly adjusting or over adjusting the truss rod can
result in damage to the guitar neck and is not covered under the ESP
limited lifetime warranty.
Checking Neck Bow
Correct truss rod adjustment is determined by the amount of bow or
relief that is in the neck. To check neck bow, hold your guitar in playing
position and check the low E and high E strings using the following
method (Figure 7).With your fretting hand, hold down the string at
the first fret. Now with your picking hand thumb, fret the same string
at the area where the neck joins the body (around 16th fret). While
holding both sections of the string in place, stretch your index finger
of your picking hand as far as possible into the middle area of the neck
(frets 7-9) and tap the string down to the frets.The amount of distance
that the string is travelling to reach the frets is the amount of bow that
is in the neck (you may also use feeler gauges to measure this distance,
but it’s not necessary). It is desirable to have a slight amount of bow,
but not too much. About .3 mm - .5 mm (.010” - .020”) is usually
plenty of bow. Having too much bow will cause excessive buzzing in
the center area of the neck and will cause the strings to be farther
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Figure 1: Stringing Plain Strings
Figure 5: Truss Rod by Body Joint
Figure 6: Truss Rod Inside Neck Pocket
Figure 2: Stringing Locking Tuners
with Thumbwheel
LoosenTighten
Figure 3: Tuner Tension
Loosen
Tighten
Figure 4: Truss Rod at Headstock
Loosen
Tighten
W = Wound, P = Plain

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away from the frets in that area making it harder to play. Having too little bow or backbow to the neck
will cause excessive buzzing on open notes and fretted notes near the nut area, and will bring the action
down too low across the entire fretboard.
Once you have determined the amount of bow that
is in the neck, then adjust the truss rod accordingly
(Figute 8). Loosen the truss rod (counter-clockwise)
if your neck is backbowed. Tighten the truss rod
(clockwise) if your neck is underbowed (too much bow).
Note: Loosen no more than 1/4 turn, then tune and
recheck neck bow until your neck is properly adjusted.
STRING ACTION
String action (or height) refers to the distance between the strings and the frets
(Figure 9).This distance is measured at the 12th fret and is measured from the top
of the fret to the bottom of the string on both the high and low outside strings.
The string action is set on every instrument before it is shipped to authorized ESP dealers. However, there
are many factors that can affect the string height and cause it to change.The main factor is usually a
change in temperature and/or humidity. Since our instruments ship through different climates to their
final destination, your guitar may need to be readjusted in order to bring it back to ESP factory specs.
Other factors that affect string action include changing string gauge and/or tuning. High string action will
make your guitar difficult to play, while low string action will cause excessive buzzing and unclear notes.
If your guitar needs string action adjustment, find your particular bridge system and locate the height
adjustment screws to properly adjust your guitar. You will need an accurate 6-inch steel rule to properly
measure this distance.
Note: Make sure you have properly tuned your guitar and adjusted the truss rod before adjusting the
string height, as having to redo these adjustments will significantly change the height of the strings.
Note: Setting your string action lower than factory settings may result in buzzing or rattling, and is not
recommended. If you are experiencing excessive buzzing or rattling, please consult with a qualified repair
technician, or double-check your neck adjustment and string heights.
Refer to the following recommended ESP factory string height settings for your guitar or bass.
Minimum String Action Heights
Bass Side Treble Side
Guitars 2.0 mm (5/64”) 1.5 mm (1/16”)
Baritones / 7-str 2.5 mm (3/32”) 1.5 mm (1/16”)
8 String Guitar / Baritone 2.8 mm (7/64”) 1.5 mm (1/16”)
Acoustics 3.2 mm (1/8”) 2.0 mm (5/64”)
4-str basses 2.8 mm (7/64”) 2.0 mm (5/64”)
5/6/8-str basses 3.2 mm (1/8”) 2.0 mm (5/64”)
Note: Changing string gauges may require setup adjustments for truss rod, tremolo, action, and intonation.
INTONATION
Intonation on a guitar refers to how well the guitar plays in tune with itself when
the same note or chord is played on a different area of the fretboard. Proper
intonation is achieved by adjusting the length of each string at the string saddle
(located on the bridge) to compensate for different string gauges, tunings,
heights, and string material. By moving each string saddle to the correct
location, your guitar will sound more in tune when you play across different
areas of the fretboard.
Intonation is set by comparing the fretted note at the 12th fret to the open
harmonic at the 12th fret and adjusting the string saddle to make these two
notes equal. (To get the 12th fret harmonic, lightly place one of your fretting
hand fingers directly over the 12th fret, resting your finger against the string
and pick that string normally with your picking hand.) The 12th fret is the exact
center point of the guitar’s scale length (distance measured from nut to
intonation point at bridge) and by adjusting the saddle for each string you
are essentially fine-tuning that string to its optimum position (Figure 10).
Find out what type of bridge is on your guitar and locate the intonation
adjustment screws to adjust the saddle location. Make sure you have tuned
your guitar and adjusted the truss rod and string action before you start with
intonation, as it should be the last step in the setup process.
Using an electronic tuner, play the 12th fret harmonic note. Now, play the
fretted note at the 12th fret. If the fretted note is sharp, move the string
saddle back (away from the neck). If the fretted note is flat, move the
string saddle forward (towards the neck). On some guitars you may need to
loosen the string first before moving the saddle.After you have adjusted the
saddle, retune the string and repeat this process until you are able to match
the fretted note with the harmonic.
Note: Use even pressure when fretting the notes during intonation adjustments so that all your strings
are intonated according to the same level of pressure during fretting. This will result in a more accurate
intonation when you are finished.
PICKUP ADJUSTMENT
All magnetic pickups used in ESP guitars are adjustable. Raising or lowering a pickup will increase or
decrease the amount of output from your guitar for that pickup. Pickup heights should be adjusted so that
both pickups are at about the same volume level compared to each other (this is how we adjust the pickups
from the factory). However, you may want to change the height of the pickups in order to achieve a different
output level for each pickup. Since the pickups are magnetic it is important not to adjust them too close to
the strings. If a pickup is too close to the strings, it will affect the vibration of the strings and could result
in oscillating or wavering notes, extra fret buzzing, and distortion. If you notice these problems, lower the
pickup until the notes ring true. Use a small screwdriver to adjust the pickup height (there will usually be 2
height adjustment screws for each pickup - one on the bass side and the other on the treble side).
Note: Some instruments have pickups with adjustable pole pieces that allow you to adjust the individual
output levels of each string.
The following are maximum bridge pickup heights as set at the ESP factory. Pickup height is measured
from the top of the pickup to the bottom of the string while holding down the strings to the fretboard
at the last fret. Keep in mind that pickup heights are not meant to be at an exact level or specification
for correct operation of your instrument. Each player can set their own pickup heights according to their
desired output levels.
Figure 7: Checking Neck Bow
Figure 9: String Action
Figure 10: Intonation
12th Fret
Intonation Point
Scale Length
Figure 8: Neck Bow or Relief
Underbow
Backbow