EZBoilers EZ-Classic User manual

Owner’s Manual
EZ Boilers
EZ-Classic and EZ-Pro
(Detailed information is included on our website’s pages)
Design tested to conform to UL 2523-2009 Solid fuel fired hydronic heating
appliances, water heaters, and boilers, and CAN/CSA B366.1-2011 Solid
fuel fired central heating appliances standards.
EZ Boilers
1445 170th Ave.
Hersey, Michigan 49639
Call or text: [phone]

INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing our stove. Developed and manufactured in Hersey
Michigan, the EZ Boilers “Simple and Strong” stove has been designed to
supply heat and hot water for your home or business. The strongest
structural design is round and the weakest is square or rectangular. This
pertains to stoves as well. For longevity and strength, our stove uses a
round, heavy duty design for the firebox. Rectangular designs with many
overlapping welds and faceted corners can be problematic. Our water jacket
is a round design as well and is 3/16” thick. Your stove also utilizes a natural
draft burning technology to get all of the energy out of traditional fuel
sources, and to provide you with many years of safe and cost-effective
heating of your building and domestic hot water supply. With no major
electronics or fans on the outside of the unit, our stove is simple and safer.
The majority of the parts we use are off- the-shelf, readily available, to make
service easy. To ensure that you have a clear understanding of the
operating procedures of your stove, please take the time to read this manual
thoroughly. If you have any questions give us a call at [phone]. We
will be happy to answer any questions you have.
Thanks again,
The EZ Boilers “Simple and Strong”Stove Team
Simple and Strong….,that’s our Stove.
SAFETY
Do not operate this equipment for anything other than its intended purpose.
Do not install in a home, basement or garage. This stove is intended to be
used outdoors.
Caution….Hot Surfaces….Never leave children unattended near the stove.

Do not burn any material other than natural organics. Do not burn
GARBAGE, HOUSEHOLD WASTE, STRAW, HAY or YARD WASTE. Do
not
use flammable liquids or materials to start or to enhance the fire. Never use
any type of petroleum product, petroleum based product, charcoal starter,
lighter fluid, lantern fuel, kerosene or any other flammable accelerant to start
your fire.
Start your fire with paper, cardboard, and small kindling, never any type of
flammable liquid. It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow
the water to come up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you
actually start heating your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat
out of the water too soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and
creosote will probably clog your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating,
but don’t turn the indoor thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that
operating temperature is reached.
When opening the firebox door, pause between the first (main) latch and the
safety latch. This type of latch is called a Door Anti Blowback Latch. There
can be unburnt gases built up inside of the firebox during normal operation.
Pausing at the safety latch will allow those gases to ignite and burn off.
Failure to make this a practice could result in severe burns. Always close the
stove door tightly after tending your fire.
Never leave the stove unattended if the firebox door is open or unlatched.
Do not touch any part of the front of your stove that is uninsulated.
Temperatures can reach 200 degrees in these areas. Failure to do this could
result in severe burns.
To avoid electrical shock, disconnect the electricity before performing
maintenance.
Always wear protective gloves and glasses. Be aware that hanging or loose
clothing can catch fire.

Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The
closed container of ashes should be placed on a non-combustible floor or on
the ground. All combustible materials should be disposed of by burial in the
soil, or otherwise dispersed. They should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Using an outdoor stove helps eliminate the risk of a house fire, chimney fire,
indoor smoke, or carbon monoxide poisoning.
The EZ Boilers stove has been tested to conform to the standards of UL
2523-2009 solid fuel fired hydronic heating appliances, water heaters, and
boilers, and CAN/CSA B366.1-2011 Solid fuel fired central heating
appliances.
SECTION 1
INSTALLATION
CAUTION –DO NOT FIRE THIS UNIT UNTIL OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS HAVE BEEN READ AND FULLY UNDERSTOOD.
NEVER
LIGHT A FIRE IN THE STOVE DRY (WITHOUT WATER), THE STOVE
WILL BURN UP.
THIS UNIT MUST BE INSTALLED BY A QUALIFIED INSTALLER.
Before installing your stove always check any and all applicable state and
local regulations and consult with your insurance agent.
We recommend installing your stove a distance of at least 5 feet from any
flammable structure, and at least 25 feet away from fuel storage tanks, such
as liquid propane tanks. However, farther away is even better. The
underground insulated PEX water lines can transport heated water for a long
distance without sacrificing economy. Safety should be a top priority. Your
stove should be located with consideration to your neighbor’s property. This

type of stove is not designed to be located or operated in densely populated
areas.
Stove Footprint. When you’re beginning to install your boiler, the footprint
comes in handy to position the blocks under the legs or pouring a concrete
pad. EZ-Pro: L = 60 inches W = 44 inches. EZ-Classic: L = 48 inches W =
44 inches
Those measurements are from the outside of the legs, which are approximately 3 inches square.
Therefore, the EZ-Pro measures 57″ by 41″ on center, and the EZ-Classic measures 45″ by 41″ on center.
CAUTION: Lift and move the stove at your own risk. Do not lift your stove
from the bottom with a fork truck or similar equipment. You can safely lift
your stove by removing the chimney diverter clean-out, dropping a chain
through the chimney into the firebox, and attaching the chain to the door
frame. The stove can also be picked up using a fork truck by putting the
forks through the door opening and into the firebox.
Electrical
We recommend that a licensed professional electrician makes all of the
necessary electrical connections involved with the installation of the
stove.
Your stove operates on a 115 volt electrical source. We recommend that you
use 14/2 115 volt underground wire during your installation. To avoid
electrical shock, disconnect the electricity before performing your
installation.
Your stove is equipped with a 115 volt aquastat controller. The pump(s)
operate on 115 volts as well.
Aquastat Controller
Before firing the stove, ensure that the aquastat is correctly programmed.
While this is done at the factory, many factors can cause the programming

to be lost, and the default programming may cause the stove to overheat
and burn up. See section “Setting the Aquastat” for details.
Grounding Rod
A properly installed grounding system will protect people from electrical
shock, help safeguard expensive electronic equipment, prevent electrolysis,
limit neutral-to-ground voltage and satisfy the NEC along the way.
Use only a 4GA or larger wire with proper grounding clips. Grind paint away
where the wire attaches to the stove in order to get a solid electrical
connection.
GFCI Outlet or GFCI Breaker
Install a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker on the stove. This will protect the user
and the electronics, and prolong the life of the stove. Installing an ordinary
electrical switch between the GFCI and the power supply coming into the
stove will allow you to easily switch off the power to the stove for
maintenance. Using the GFCI reset button as a switch would greatly shorten
its life. The stove’s pump(s) plug into this outlet conveniently. More details
on our “Installation Tips”webpage.

Thermostat
Install a second thermostat (110 volt line voltage thermostat) connecting it
to your existing home furnace. This will allow the heat from the outside stove
to be distributed throughout your home, without your indoor furnace’s
burner cycling on.
Your existing furnace thermostat should be set several degrees lower than
the new stove thermostat. This will allow the existing furnace to only turn on
and heat your home if the fire goes out in your outdoor stove.
IMPORTANT: Have a qualified electrician check to ensure that these
changes do not cause the electric motor to overload. Any modification to the
existing furnace must be made in accordance with the manufacturer’s
specifications and performed by a qualified, licensed person, in accordance
with local building codes.
Plumbing
We recommend that you contact a licensed professional plumber to make all
necessary plumbing installations between the stove and your existing
heating system or your building(s). There are tips for the installation
elsewhere in this manual, and on our website. The necessary fittings for the
stove’s installation are available at most local hardware stores and home
improvement centers. SupplyHouse, an online vendor, also has a wide
selection of plumbing parts at reasonable prices.
Initial Water Fill-Up
Attach a garden host to the hose fitting on the return line pipe. Shut off the
return line ball valve and fill the entire system until water runs out of the vent
pipe on the top of the stove. Open the return line ball valve and run the
pumps for 24 hours to purge the air from the system and to check the

plumbing for leaks. Check and refill the system as necessary and pour 1 unit
of sodium nitrite treatment solution into the vent pipe located on the top of
the stove.
If you have 2 return lines for your system, add a y fitting to connect the 2 return lines to the return port.
This will provide a smoother water flow than would a 90 degree tee fitting.

However, it can be difficult to locate Y fittings in your local hardware store. A 90 degree fitting will work, but should be
installed in a direction which will ensure the smoothest water ow. This applies to whatever type of fitting you are
working with, brass or PEX. You want at least one of the water return lines to have a straight path back to the stove
tank.

Stove Water Ports
The stove pump ports are shown here. The ports are female 1 inch NPT
(National Pipe Thread) and fittings are available at your local home
improvement store.
SECTION 2 –GETTING TO KNOW YOUR
STOVE
Stove Construction
Firebox
Our firebox is 5/16” thick, which gives us one of the thickest fireboxes
available. The strongest structure is round and the weakest is square or
rectangular. For longevity and strength, our firebox uses this round boiler
design. Round designs have fewer welds; therefore, fewer spots for possible
failure.

Water jacket
Our water jacket is 3/16” thick, and is also a round design, giving it maximum
strength. The water jacket surrounds the entire firebox of the stove to
maximize heat transfer.
Sight Glass
A sight glass is a simple mechanical way to keep track of the water level in
your stove. With a quick glance, you know that your stove has the correct
amount of water. If you do not see water in the sight glass, water must be
added to your stove. Commonly, the water level in the gauge will settle just
below the halfway point.

Boiler Vent
The boiler vent is a port coming off of the highest part of the water jacket of
the stove, and is used to vent air from the stove when it is filled. It is also
used to prevent a vacuum from forming when the stove is drained. The
stove is a non-pressurized unit and is ventilated to the atmosphere through
the vent. The vent is also a good place to pour the water additive (sodium
nitrite) for your stove. It is not recommended to fill your stove the first time
through the vent tube, because that could trap air in the pumping system.

Chimney
The chimney is 8” schedule 40 steel. A regular 8” piece of stove pipe will fit
into the chimney of your stove. You could also use 8” insulated pipe.
Stoves with chimneys mounted out the side will have far more creosote than
those that have chimneys going out the top. The answer is simple.
Unburned gases when exiting into the chimney cool off, condense and form
creosote. Out-the-side chimneys run much cooler, resulting in excessive
creosote buildup. Your stove has an ‘out-the-top’ chimney running through a
diverter. Our stove is designed this way to be simple, safer, and require less
maintenance.
Check the caulk around the chimney and roof of your stove every year.
Recaulk as necessary. Your local home improvement store will carry a high
temp RTV silicone adhesive/sealant that withstands up to 500 to 600
degrees.
Diverter
If you look at the top of the firebox, you will see a metal box. This box is
called a Diverter. The diverter is mounted under the chimney. It is designed
to push smoke and heat to the back of the stove so that the stove heat does

not go straight out the chimney. The flapper in the diverter is there to aid in
cleaning the chimney. If can be removed or pulled back to clean the
chimney.
Rear Access Door
The rear access door encloses the plumbing and electrical wiring for your
stove. It is held on with two knob bolts and slides out the bottom of the stove
frame.
Electrical
Connecting power to the stove is fairly simple, but please get someone
qualified to work on it if you are unsure or uncomfortable working with
electricity.

Electronics
Aquastat Controller
The aquastat controller for your stove is designed for many heating and
cooling and high temperature applications. The probe temperature is
displayed on a bright 3-digit display. You are able to program the set point
(SP), which is the temperature the damper door will open and you are able
to set the differential (R0), which is the difference between the damper open
and close temperatures. Setting the aquastat is covered in ‘Setting the
Aquastat’ .

Our recent models have a Honeywell aquastat and an external temperature gauge.
The temperature gauge is held in place by a dab of silicone. If you are concerned
that the gauge doesn’t seem to be reading the water temperature correctly as you
set it, there is a small adjusting screw on the back of the gauge which you can use
to adjust it.

SECTION 3 –MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING
Before the Heating Season
CAUTION –DO NOT START A FIRE IN THIS STOVE UNTIL OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS HAVE BEEN READ AND FULLY UNDERSTOOD.
Never start a fire in your stove without water, The stove will burn up.
Make sure your stove is full of water (SIGHT GLASS), run the pumps and
check for leaks. Remember, the pump is lubricated with water.
Inspect the rope seal around the inside of the door before lighting the first
fire and a few days after, looking for any indications of a poor seal. A poor
seal will cause the fire to burn unregulated, possibly resulting in damage due
to overheating, as well as poor burning economy. The door must be closed
and sealed for the stove to operate properly.
It is very important when you first fire your stove to allow the water to come
up to operating temperature (160° to 180°) before you actually start heating
your home or other structure. If you start drawing heat out of the water too
soon, the stove will not be able to catch up, and creosote will probably clog
your chimney. Keep the water pump(s) operating, but don’t turn the indoor
thermostat for the outdoor stove up until that operating temperature is
reached.
End of the Heating Season
Check the caulk around the chimney and roof of your stove. Re-caulk if
necessary. Your local home improvement store will carry a high temp RTV
silicone adhesive/sealant that withstands temperatures up to 500 to 600
degrees.
Place a bucket over the chimney when the stove is not in use, to keep rain out of
the firebox.
Check the rope seal around the inside of the door. Replace if necessary
Remove the rear access door and inspect the pumps and fittings for leaks.