Hogtunes RETRO 450.4 KIT User manual

Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes Retro 450.4 Kit for 2014+ Rushmore
Platform Street Glides and Road Glides. Since positive word of mouth is the
best way to grow our business, we want your new system to work as well as it
was designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help.
To help protect your bike’s electrical system and battery, the amp has a built
in feature where it will turn itself off if it sees less than 10.5 volts, whether
the bike is running or not. If you’re listening to your stereo while not riding,
this feature can help protect your battery so the bike can still start. If you’re
riding and the amp shuts off, this could be showing a potential issue with your
charging system. If this feature is activated and the amp shuts off, it will turn
the amp back on again if the voltage exceeds the 10.5 volt threshold.
REV 225-RM is rated for 112.5 watts per channel @ 2 ohms. This system will
work fine without a radio reflash, however, if you have the radio reflashed
by an HD dealer, or a Techno Research dealer, the radio fader function will
be activated and you will be able to control volume between the front and lid
speakers from your radio. If you choose to have the re flash done by an HD
Dealer, the flash you need is called “Front and rear speakers without amp”
which is the same factory flash that comes on Ultra Models. Don’t worry about
the fact you’re putting amps in! The flash you want gives us the sound etc from
the radio for the amps being installed. If you go to a Techno Research dealer,
their equipment has a “Wild Boar Audio” flash built in and that is what they
need to use. Installation for Street Glide Models starts on Page 3, and
Installation for Road Glides starts on Page 8. The lid cut in and 6”x9”
installation (common for both model bikes) starts on page 13.
The REV 225-RM amplifier is a Class D design. It should be
understood that ALL Class D amplifiers, REGARDLESS OF BRAND, cause
a reduction in FM reception. The REV 225-RM features a proprietary
circuit design called R.E.M.I.T. (Reduced Electro Magnetic Interference
Technology) that Hogtunes believes gives the BEST FM reception
available for any Class D Amplifier designed for a motorcycle.
If you add a 2nd or 3rd model amplifier to your system, reduction
of FM reception is increased and is considered normal.
Hogtunes understands that some riders prefer the cosmetics
of in-fairing antennas, however it should be noted that
NOTHING WORKS AS WELL AS THE FACTORY ANTENNA.
If FM is an important part of your riding experience, we strongly
advise against the use of any in fairing type antenna!
Hogtunes Contact Information
Email: [email protected]
Telephone (USA) 608-554-7631 • (Canada) 705-719-6361
HOGTUNES 2 INTRODUCTION

STREET GLIDE INSTALLATIONSTREET GLIDE INSTALLATION
HOGTUNES 3 STREET GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS
Step #1: Remove the seat and both wires (+ and -) from the battery. Remove the
outer fairing/headlamp assembly and set aside. Refer to a service
manual if you need help with this. NOTE: Placing a towel on the front
fender can help prevent scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or
fasteners, etc. Expletives will also be kept to a minimum!
Step #2: SPEAKER CABINET REMOVAL: On the brake side speaker cabinet,
carefully remove the cable going into the power port/cigarette lighter
assembly. If your bike has the CB module (mounted “sideways” on the
clutch side cabinet) undo the antenna cable and main harness. The
CB Module will stay attached to the clutch side cabinet when removed.
Undo the speaker wire plugs going into each cabinet (pink & pink with
black stripe wires).
The speaker cabinets are vital to the fairings structure.
DO NOT operate the bike without the speaker cabinets installed!
NOTE: We STRONGLY suggest COMPLETING the speaker swap on one side
and then moving to other side! Figure 1.1 and 1.2 (below) have arrows that point
to the factory fasteners that will be removed to allow the cabinets to come
out of the bike. Although the Brake Side is shown below, fastener locations
are common for both brake and clutch side cabinets.
Figure 1.1
Side view of brake side cabinet
Figure 1.2
Back view of brake side cabinet

Step #3: INSTALLING THE NEW SPEAKER: With the cabinet removed from
the bike, undo the four screws that hold the factory speaker to the
cabinet. Carefully take off each speaker wire by disconnecting one at
a time. Take a Hogtunes speaker and attach the factory speaker wires,
noting they will only go on one way. You will see a small locator “peg”
on the speaker cabinet. There is a provision on the underside of the
462F-RM that allows the speaker to sit over this, so there is no reason to
cut the peg off. Using the factory screws, attach the new speaker to the
cabinet. Please make sure the speaker is flush to the cabinet when
installed. Bass response will be greatly reduced if the speaker is not
flush to the cabinet! The new speaker can be used behind the factory
cloth covered grill, but the speaker will play louder with the supplied
metal mesh grills installed. If you use the metal mesh grills, remove the
3 screws that secure the factory grill to the inner fairing. Looking at the
metal mesh grill, you will see that one of its mounting tabs has a
“keyhole” in it. The metal mesh grill will install into the inner fairing
using the screws that held the factory grill in, but the mounting tab with
the keyhole MUST be oriented so it is closest to the radio. With the grills
in place, and the speaker properly attached to the speaker cabinet, the
cabinet can be re-installed to the bike. It’s always a good idea to put the
factory fasteners back in to specified torque.
HOGTUNES 4 STREET GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

AMPLIFIER INSTALLATIONAMPLIFIER INSTALLATION
Step #1: Over top of the radio,
pull up to release each
wire harness from the
black plate via the
factory “Christmas
Tree” fasteners. If the
bike has factory GPS,
the small square
antenna will need
to be relocated just
behind the voltmeter
as shown in Fig 1.1.
Remove the four
factory T-20 “Torx”
screws that go through
the top of the black
plate and into the top of the radio.
Step #2: As the amplifiers come in their boxes, each one is “stuck” to a mounting
plate for use in FLH model bikes. “Peel” the amps off the plate. Take one
of the plates and place it on top of the radio oriented so the tab with the
hole in it is closest to the back of the radio (closest to you). Locate and
install one of the supplied “star” washers on each factory screw and
re-install the screw/washer through the new plate, through the factory
black plate and into the top of the radio.
Figure 1.1 - The white circle shows the new
location for GPS Antenna if your bike came
factory equipped with this feature.
IMPORTANT
In this install we refer to one amplifier as the “Primary” and the
other amplifier as the “Secondary.” The Primary always has the
main input harness go into it, and is always the amplifier that
powers the front fairing speakers. When installed, the amp on
the left (brake side) of the bike is the Primary amplifier.
HOGTUNES 5 STREET GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

Step #3: Take one amp, and In the same orientation as it came out of the box,
“stick” the amp to the left half of the plate so the power harness is closest
to the back of the radio. The “amplified output pigtail” will sit closest to
your inner fairing. Have this pig tail so the 4 pin black plug is easy to
get to. This first amp goes on the left (brake side) and from here on out
is referred to as the PRIMARY amplifier. The second amp is referred to
as the SECONDARY amp and is what will power the 6x9’s in the lids.
Take the “Secondary” amp and “stick it” on your right (clutch) side so its
oriented the same way as the “Primary” amp.
Step #4: Locate the “splitter” power harness included in the kit. Plug one of the
“splits” into the power connector on each amplifier. Let the balance of
the power harness hang for now.
Step #5: On each front speaker’s cabinet, there is a 2 pin plug that has pink and
pink with black stripe wires. The plugs attach the speaker’s wiring to the
bike’s wiring and need to be separated. Locate the “main input” harness
and plug its 8 pin plug into the “audio input” on the PRIMARY amplifier.
On this input harness, take the plug with the green heat shrink on the
end and install it into the mating plug on the brake side of the bike. Take
the plug with the yellow heat shrink on the end and install it into the
mating plug on the clutch side of the bike.
Step #6: Locate a bag with a harness in it that says “Audio Out” and plug it into
the amplified out “pigtail” on the PRIMARY (left side) amplifier. Take the
2 pin plug with the blue heat shrink on one end and install it into the
plug going into the brake side speaker cabinet. Take the 2 pin plug with
the brown heat shrink and install it into the plug going into the clutch
side speaker cabinet.
Step #7: Locate the shorter harness (not in a bag) that has red/black and white/
black wires, and has a “square” 4 pin black plug, and 1 blue 4 pin plug.
The “square” 4 pin plug will plug into the mating factory plug inside the
fairing with 4 light blue wires going into it. This one of the harnesses
on the “Christmas Tree” fastener removed before the amp plate was
installed. The 8 pin connector on the same harness will plug into the
”Audio In” on the Secondary Amp. There will be a left over 4 pin blue
plug which is there for future system expansion (adding a 3rd amp if
needed).
HOGTUNES 6 STREET GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

Stock Harness and Amplifier’s
Harnesses Passing From Fairing To
Just In Front Of Tank (Arrow A).
Cable Tying the Harnesses To The
Main Bike Harness Just In Front Of
The Tank (Arrow B) Allows The Amp
Harnesses To Go Up Towards
The Tank’s Chrome Console Easier
And Makes For a Cleaner Install.
Step #8: Locate the long harness that came in the “Retro Lid-RM” box that has a
white 4 pin connector on one end, and two—2 pin black connectors
on the other. Take the 4 pin plug on this harness and plug it into the
amplified output “pigtail” on the Secondary (right side) amplifier. The
balance of the harness for the lids and power harness will pass under
the fairing where the main factory wire harnesses exit the fairing on the
brake side of the bike.
If you have removed your fuel tank: the lids speaker harness and
power harness can work their way towards the back of the bike inside the factory
wire “chase”. Note: The factory antenna wire also runs through this “chase.”
Keeping the amps power harness away from the factory antenna wire WILL help
FM reception!
If you have left your fuel tank on: Loosen the tanks chrome console
and run the 2 harnesses up and over the tank, but under the console. There is a
provision on the front of the tank console for the wires to pass.
With or without the fuel tank on, when correctly installed, the power harness‘s
“ring terminals” will be at the battery and easily attached to the battery. Do not
attach the power wires to the battery yet!
MOVE TO THE “LID CUT-IN SECTION” ON PAGE 13
HOGTUNES 7 STREET GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

ROAD GLIDE INSTALLATION
Step #1: Remove the seat and both wires (+ and -) from the battery. Each factory
speaker grill will be removed from the inner fairing by prying up on
them. In most cases you can pry these off with your fingers, but if you
must use a tool, please use something with a 90° end being extra
careful not to scratch your inner fairing.
Step #2: Remove the outer fairing from the bike and then the headlamp
assembly. Refer to a service manual if you need help with this.
NOTE: Placing a towel on the front fender can help prevent scratches or
“dings” from dropped tools or fasteners etc. Expletives will also be kept
to a minimum!
Step #3: Undo the 4 screws that hold the factory speaker to the cabinet.
Carefully take off each speaker wire by disconnecting one at a time.
Take a Hogtunes speaker and attach the factory speaker wires noting
they will only go on one way. You will need to “maneuver” the new
speaker into place so it will go past the grill opening but it will go in
without force.
IN ORDER TO MAKE THE SPEAKER INSTALL PROPERLY, THE
SPEAKER WIRE TABS MUST BE ORIENTED SO THEY ARE
CLOSEST TO THE TOP OF THE INNER FAIRING (12 O’CLOCK
POSITION).
Reinstall the factory screws to secure the speakers in place making sure
the speaker is flush to the mounting plane.
Step #4: On the back of each stock speaker grill, you will see a rubber gasket
and 2 white clips. These gaskets and clips will be removed from the
factory grills and re-installed on the supplied Hogtunes “RGRM” grills.
Once the gaskets and clips are installed onto the new grills, put the
grills aside and move to the next step.
The supplied Hogtunes grills are designed so the metal mesh
and grill frame are easily separated for custom finishing.
The metal mesh is thick enough so it should not warp during
processing such as polishing or powder coating.
ROAD GLIDE INSTALLATION
HOGTUNES 8 ROAD GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

IMPORTANT NOTE BEFORE PROCEEDING
Power wires and wires for rear speakers will travel from inner fairing
area towards the back of the bike. You can run wires in the factory
wire “chase” which is under the fuel tank along the frame, or up
and over fuel tank, but under the chrome console. If you are
comfortable removing and re-installing your bikes fuel tank, doing
it now can make running the wires much easier.
As the amplifiers come in each box, they are “stuck” to a mounting plate for use
in FLH (Batwing) model bikes. “Peel” the amps off each plate and put those plates
aside as they are not required for FLTR (Road Glide) installations.
The image below will be one you can reference throughout the installation. Please
take a minute and familiarize yourself with the items listed below in the image.
A
B
CD
Figure 1.1
A = Mounting points for Headlight assembly
B = Wire passage from fairing to bike
C = Brake side speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
D = Clutch Side Speaker harness (Pink and Pink with Black Stripe wires)
AMPLIFIER INSTALLATIONAMPLIFIER INSTALLATION
HOGTUNES 9 ROAD GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS

Step #1: Locate the “splitter” power harness included in this kit. You will see one
end that has “ring terminals”, and the other end that “splits” and has
2 power connectors on it. Using Fig 1.1 on page 9 for reference, run
the “ring terminal end” of the power harness through “B”. Position it so
the 2 power connectors on the “split end” are accessible in the inner
fairing and the slack can be adjusted later in the installation. Just in front
of the tank, there is a structure that attaches the fairing to the frame of
the bike. The power harness will pass through this structure and exit
through the rectangular opening where the factory harness also exits the
structure on the BRAKE side of the bike. Note: it can be easier to pass
the wire harness through the rectangular opening if you “open” the fuse
holder and remove the fuse before passing the wire harness. Once the
ring terminal end of the wire harness is through the rectangular opening
and most of the slack is taken up, move to the next step.
Step #2: Locate the long harness that came
in the “Retro Lid-RM” box that has a
white 4 pin connector on one end, and
two—2 pin black connectors on the
other. The 4 pin plug will go through
the rectangular opening the power
wires just came through and must be
accessible near the power connectors
of the “splitter” harness. Let the rest of
the lid harness sit for now.
Step #3: Preparing the Plate for the
Amplifiers:
Locate the Road Glide Plate that came
in the kit (Fig 1.2). Locate the 2 “hook
and loop” adhesive pieces included
in the kit and separate the halves of
each. With the plate at room tempera-
ture or higher, apply one side of the
hook and loop to the front of the plate
as shown by the black rectangle also
in Fig 1.2. Apply a second piece on
the back of the plate as well.
Fig 1.2
Fig 1.3
HOGTUNES 10 ROAD GLIDE INSTRUCTIONS