Jeep cherokee 1989 User manual

Contents
Introductory pages
About thismanual 0 - 5
IntroductiontotheJeep Cherokee and Comanche 0 - 5
Vehicleidentificationnumbers 0 - 7
Buyingparts 0 - 10
Maintenancetechniques, tools and working facilities 0 - 10
Booster battery (jump)starting 0 - 17
Jackingand towing 0 - 17
Automotivechemicals and lubricants 0 - 19
Safety first! Q - 20
Conversionfactors 0-21
Troubleshooting 0 - 22
Tune - upandroutine maintenance 1 - 1
Chapter 2 Part A
Four - cylinder engine 24-1
Chapter 2 Part B
V6 engine 28 - 0
Chapter 2 Part C
Inlinesix - cylinderengine 2C - 0
Chapter 2 Part D
General engine overhaul procedures 2D - 0
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioningsystems
Chapter 4
Fuel and exhaustsystems 4 - 0
Chapter 7 Part A
Manualtransmlsslon
Transfer case
Chapter 8
Clutchand drlvetraln
Chapter 9
Brakes
Chapter 10
Suspension and steer~ngsystems
Chapter 11
Body
Chapter 12
Chassls electrical system
Wiringdiagrams 12-9
Index IMD - 1
The Motor Manual Guy
Chapter 1

The Motor Manual Guy

The Motor Manual Guy

Vehicle identification numbers
Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)and the certi
-
manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on fication statement.
anumericalbasis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential tocor
-
rectly identify the component required.
Vehicle Identification Plate
Vehicle ldentification Number (VINI
This very important identification number is stamped on aplate at -
tached tothe left side of the dashboard just inside the windshield on
thedriver's side of the vehicle (seeillustration). The VIN also appears
on the Vehicle Certificateof Title and Registration. It contains informa
-
tion such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model
year and the body style.
Safety Certification label
The Safetv Certification label is affixed to the left front door pillar.
This plate is located on the radiator support on the driver's side. It
contains informationonthe vehiclemodel, emissioncertification, engine
and transmission type as well as the paint code.
Engine identification number
The engine ID number on four - cylinder engines is located on a ma -
chined surface on the right side ofthe block between the number three
and four cylinders (seeillustration). On V6 engines, the ID number is
located on a pad at the front of the block (see illustration). On inline
six - cylinder engines, theID number islocated on amachined surface
on the right side of the block between the number two and three
The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, themonthand year cylinders (see illustration).
The Vehicle ldentification Number (VIN) is visible from outside
the vehicle through the driver's side of the windshield Four
- cylinder engine ID number location
V6 engine ID number location Inline six
- cylinder engine ID number location
The Motor Manual Guy

The build date and serial number are stamped on the
bottom of the
AX 415 manual transmission case
PA~T SERIAL
NUMBER DATE NUMBER
1892 1 - 363
The three - speed automatic transmission numbers are
stamped on the edge of the left side of the case
Typical transfer case ID tag
BA 1015 manual transmission ID number location
TRANSMISSION
n
The four - speed automatic transmission ID plate is on the
right rear side of the case
Front axle ID number location
The Motor Manual Guy

Vehicle identification numbers 0 - 9
Transmission identification number
The ID number on T 415 manual transmissions is located on a tag
attached to the rear of the case. On
AX 415 manual transmissions,
there are twoidentificationcodes: a modellcodeshippingdate stamped
on the shift tower and an eight digitcode stamped on the bottom sur
-
face of the case (seeillustration). On the BA 1015 manualtransmission,
the ID plateis attached tothe left sideof the frontcase(seeillustration).
On three
- speed automatictransmissions theID numbers are stamped
on the left edge of the case (see illustration). The ID plate on four-
speedautomatictransmissions is located on the right rear of thecase
(see illustration).
Transfer case identification number
On most models the transfer case identification plate is located on
the left rear side of the case (see illustration).
Axle identification numbers
On most front axles the identification number is located on a tag
attached to the differential housing cover (see illustration). On rear
BUILD DATE
AND
MANUFACTURER
I . D . -TAG
LOCATION
Rear axle number locations
NO.
axles, the identification tag is on the left side of the housing and the
builddateandmanufacturer number are stampedonthe axletube(see
illustration).
The Motor Manual Guy

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities
0 - 1 1
Fastener sizes
For anumber of reasons, automobilemanufacturers are making wider
and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able
to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAEI
and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged.
Allbolts, whetherstandard or metric, are sizedaccording to diameter,
thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 112
- 13 x 1 bolt
is
1 12 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long.
An M12
- 1.75 x 25metric bolt is 12mmin diameter, has a thread
pitchof 1.75 mm (thedistance between threads) and is 25mmlong.
The twobolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are
not interchangeable.
In additiontothe differences in diameter, thread pitch and length,
metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the
bolt heads. Tobegin with, the distance across the flats ona standard
bolthead is measured ininches, while the same dimension ona metric
bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a
standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric
wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard
boltshave slashes radiatingout fromthe center of the head todenote
thegrade or strength of the bolt, whichis anindication of the amount
of torque that canbe applied toit. The greater the number of slashes,
the greater the strength of thebolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly
used onautomobiles. Metric boltshave aproperty class (grade)number,
rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength.
In this case, the higher thenumber, the stronger the bolt. Property class
numbers 8.8, 9.8 and. 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles.
Strength markings can also be usedtodistinguish standardhex nuts
frommetric hex nuts. Many standardnuts havedots stamped intoone
side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the
number of dots, or the higher the number, thegreater the strength of
the nut.
Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property
class (grade).Larger studs are numbered (thesame as metric bolts),
Grade
Hex Nut
Grade
5
Hex Nut
Grade 8
Grade 1 or 2
Grade 5 Grade 8
Bolt strength markings (top - standardlSAE1USS; bottom - metric)
Hex Nut
Property
Class 9
Identification
3 Dots
I
Arabic 9
I
Class Identification
Hex Nut
Property
Class 10
6 Dots
I
Arabic I 0
I
Standard hex nut strength
I
Metric hex nut strength
markings markings
I
CLASS CLASS CLASS
10.9 9.8 8.8
Metric stud strength markings
The Motor Manual Guy

0 - 1 2
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities
while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.
It should benotedthatmany fasteners, especially Grades
0 through
2, haveno distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the
only way todetermine whether
it is standard or metric is tomeasure
the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size.
Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to
metric. However,
it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a
non
- metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non - metric
fasteners are referred to as USS sizes.
Since fastenersof the same size (bothstandardand metric) may have
different strengthratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts
removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when re
-
placing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has
a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.
Tightening sequences and procedures
Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque
value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component
such as anut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and
cause
it tobreak, while undertightening cancause it toeventually come
loose.Bolts, screws and studs, dependingon the material they are made
of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of
which are notedinthe Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter.
Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners
not assigneda specific torque, ageneraltorque value chart is presented
here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated)fasteners
threadedintosteel or cast iron hotaluminum). As waspreviouslymen
-
tioned, the size andgrade of afastener determine the amount of torque
thatcan safely be applied to
it. The figures listedhere are approximate
Metric thread sizes
M - 6 .........................
M - 8 .........................
M - 10 ........................
M - 12 ........................
M - 14 ........................
Pipe thread sizes
118 .........................
114 .........................
318 .........................
1/2 .........................
U. S. thread sizes
114 - 20 .....................
5/16 - 18.. ..................
5116 - 24. ...................
318 - 16.. ...................
318 - 24. ....................
7/16 - 14.. ..................
7/16 - 20. ...................
112 - 13.. ...................
Nmlm
9t0 12
lgto 28
38 to 54
68
to 96
109 to 154
Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensionslgrade marks
G Grade marks lboltstrength)
L Length (in inches)
T Threadpitch (number of threads per inch)
D Nominaldiameter (in inches)
dl f-l I-
Metric bolt dimensionslgrade marks
P Property class lbolt strength)
L Length (in millimeters)
T Threadpitch (distance between threads in millimeters)
D Diameter
The Motor Manual Guy

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities
0 - 13
for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher
torque values.
Fasteners laid out In a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan
bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in
sequence to avo~dwarping the component. This sequence will nor
-
mally beshown in theappropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not
given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.
Initially, the bolts or nutsshould be assembled finger
- tight only. Next,
they should be t~ghtenedone fullturn each, Ina criss
- cross or diagonal
pattern. After eachonehas been tightened one full turn, return tothe
first one and tighten them all one
- half turn, followmg the same pat -
tern. Fmally, tighteneach of them one - quarter turnat a time untileach
fastener has been tightenedtothe proper torque. Toloosen and remove
the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.
Component disassembly
Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to
help ensure that the parts goback together properly. Alwayskeep track
of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special
characteristics or marks on partsthat can be installed more than one
way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea
to lay thedisassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that
they were removed. It may also be helpful tomake sketches or take
instant photos of components before removal.
Whenremoving fasteners froma component, keep track of their loca
-
tions. Sometimes threading abolt back inapart, orputtingthe washers
and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix
- ups later. If nuts and bolts
cannot be returned totheir original locations, they should be kept in
a compartmentedbox or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin
tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and
nuts froma particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valvecover bolts, engine
mountbolts, etc.).A pan of this type is especially helpful when work
-
ingon assemblies with very small parts, such as thecarburetor, alter -
nator, valvetrainor interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be
marked with paint or tape to identify the contents.
Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated,
it
is a good idea toidentify thetwohalves withnumberedpieces of mask -
ing tape so they can be easily reconnected.
Gasket sealing surfaces
Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating sur -
faces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or
pressure contained in an assembly.
Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste
- type
gasket sealing compoundbefore assembly. Age, heat and pressure can
sometimes cause the twoparts to stick together so tightly that they
are very difficult toseparate. Often, the assembly canbeloosened by
striking it witha soft
- face hammer near themating surfaces. A regular
hammer canbe usedif a block of woodis placed betweenthehammer
andthepart. Do nothammer oncast parts or parts thatcould be easily
damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck tomake
sure that every fastener has been removed.
Avoid using a screwdriver or bar topry apart an assembly, as they
can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must
remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom
handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the
wood splinters.
After the parts are separated, the old gasket must
be carefully
scraped offand thegasketsurfaces cleaned. Stubborngasket material
canbe soaked with rust penetrant or treated witha special chemical
tosoften
it so it canbeeasily scrapedoff. A scraper can be fashioned
from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end.
Copper isrecommended because
it isusually softer thanthe surfaces
to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some
gasketscanberemoved witha wirebrush, butregardlessof themethod
used, themating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some
reason thegasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough
to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the com
-
ponents. For most applications, a non - drying (orsemi - drying) gasket
sealer should be used.
Hose removal tips
Warning: If thevehicleis equippedwithair conditioning,do notdiscon -
nectany of the A/C hoses without firsthaving thesystemdepressurized
by a dealer service department or an air conditioning specialist,
Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precau -
tions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates
against or theconnection may leak. Thisis especially true for radiator
hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, therubber inhoses can
bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a
hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it tothe spigot. Then,
with slip
- joint pliers, grab the hose at rhe clamp and rotate it around
thespigot. Work it back and forth until itis completely free, thenpull
it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be
applied betweenthe hose andtheoutside of thespigot. Apply the same
lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to
simplify installation.
As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one
anyway), therubber can be slit witha knife andthehose peeled from
the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection
is not damaged.
If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse
it. Wire - type
clamps usually weaken with age, so
it is a good idea toreplace them
with screw
- type clamps whenever a hose is removed.
Tools
A selection of good toolsis a basic requirement for anyone whoplans
tomaintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has
fewtools, the initial investment might seem high, but whencompared
to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair,
it
is a wise one.
Micrometer set Dial indicator set
-
The Motor Manual Guy

0 - 1 4
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities
Dial caliper Hand
- operated vacuum pump Timing light
Compression gauge with spark plug
hole adapter
Hydraulic lifter removal tool
Ridge reamer
Damperlsteering wheel puller General purpose puller
Valve spring compressor Valve spring compressor
Piston ring groove cleaning tool Ring removallinstallation tool
The Motor Manual Guy

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The Motor Manual Guy

0 - 16
Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities
Pliers - vise grip
Pliers
- lineman's
Pliers
- needle nose
Pliers
- snap - ring (internal and external)
Cold chisel
- 1/2-inch
Scribe
Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)
Centerpunch
Pin punches 11/76, 1/8, 3/16-inch)
Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch
Alien wrench set (1/8to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mml
A selection of files
Wire brush (large)
Jackstands (second set)
Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)
Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drillmotor with
a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.
Special tools
The tools inthis list include those which are not used regularly, are
expensive tobuy, or which need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools willbeusedfrequently,
it is not very economical topurchase many of them. A consideration
would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or
friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool
rental shop on a temporary basis.
This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely
available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the
vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments.
Occasionally,referencesto the manufacturer's special tools are inluded
in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing
the job without the special toolis offered. However, sometimesthere
isno alternative totheir use. Wherethis is thecase, andthe tool cannot
bepurchasedor borrowed, the work should beturned over tothe dealer
service department or an automotive repair shop.
Valve spring compressor
Piston ring groove cleaning tool
Piston ring compressor
Piston ring installation tool
Cylinder compression gauge
Cylinder ridge reamer
Cylinder surfacing hone
Cylinder bore gauge
Micrometers and/or dial calipers
Hydraulic lifter removal tool
Balljoint separator
Universal
- type puller
Impact serewdriver
Dial indicator set
Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick
- up)
Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump
Tachometer/dwell meter
Universal electrical multimeter
Cable hoist
Brake spring removal and installation tools
Floor jack
Buying tools
For the do - it - yourselfer whois just starting toget involved invehicle
maintenanceand repair, there are anumber of optionsavailable when
purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the
work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If,
onthe other hand, extensive work isplanned,
it would be a good idea
topurchase a modest tool set from one of thelarge retail chain stores.
A setcanusually beboughtat asubstantialsavings over theindividual
tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools
are needed, add
- on sets, individual tools and alarger tool box can be
purchased toexpand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually
allows the cost of the tools tobe spread over a longer period of time
and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that
will actually be used.
Tool stores willoften be the only source of some of the special tools
thatare needed, but regardlessof where toolsarebought, try to avoid
cheapones, especiallywhenbuyingscrewdrivers andsockets, because
they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap
tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.
Care and maintenance of tools
Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with
respect. Keep themclean andinusableconditionandstorethem prop
-
erly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips
before puttingthem away. Never leave tools lyingaround inthe work
area. Upon completionof a job, alwayscheck closely under the hood
for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during
a test drive.
Sometools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches andsockets, can
be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while
others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments,
gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be
damaged by weather or impact from other tools.
When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last
a very long time. Even withthe best of care, though, tools will wear
out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace
it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.
Working facilities
Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If
anythingmore than routinemaintenance is tobe carried out, some sort
of suitable work area is essential.
It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do
not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing
anengine or doingmajor repairs outside. Itisrecommended, however,
that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.
A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is
anabsolutenecessity. The workbench should beequipped witha vise
that has a jaw opening of at least four inches.
As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also
required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents,
etc. which will soon become necessary.
Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling
system during normal maintenance or repairs, present adisposal prob
-
lem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system,
pour theused fluidsinto large containers, seal them withcaps and take
them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs,
such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.
Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available.
Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use
rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available
anddisposable. Tohelp keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large
cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage
or shop floor.
Whenever working over apainted surface, such as whenleaningover
a fender to service something under the hood, always cover
it with
anold blanket or bedspread toprotect the finish. Vinyl covered pads,
made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.
The Motor Manual Guy

Booster battery (jump) starting
Certain precautionsmust be observed whenusing abooster battery
to start a vehicle.
a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition
switch is in the Off position.
b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads.
cl Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea.
d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead
one in the vehicle.
e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other!
f) Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual) or Park
(automatic).
g) If thebooster battery is not amaintenance - free type, remove the
vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.
Connect the red jumper cable to the
positive (+Iterminals of each
battery.
Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the
negative (-1 ter -
minal of the booster battery. The other endof this cableshould be con -
nected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt
or bracket onthe engine block (seeillustration).Use caution toensure
that the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or
other moving parts of the engine.
Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine Make the booster battery cable connections in the
running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cablesin the reverseorder numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the
of connection. booster battery is
NOT attached to the negative terminal
of the dead battery)
Jacking and towing
Jacking
in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If a tire is being changed,
The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising loosenthe lug nuts one
- half turn andleave theminplace until the wheel
the vehicle when changing atire or placing jackstands under the frame. is raised off the ground.
Warning:
Never work under the vehicleor start the engine while this
Place the jack under the vehicle suspension in the indicated position
jack is being used as the only means of support.
(seeillustration). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until
The vehicle should be on level ground withthe hazard flashers on, the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the
the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on withthe bev-
Jacking points and procedure
I Place the transmission in Park (automatic)or Reverse (manuall
2 Turn on the hazard flashers
3 Apply the parking brake
4 Block the wheel diagonally opposite the one being changed
5 Use the jack to raise the vehicle
6 Rear jacking point
7 Front jacking point
The Motor Manual Guy

0 - 18 Jacking and towing
elled sides facing in. Tighten them snugly, but wait until the vehicle
isloweredtotighten them completely. Note that some spare tires are
designed for temporary use only
- don't exceed the recommended
speed, mileage or other restrictions accompanying the spare.
Lower the vehicle, remove the jack and tighten thenuts (ifloosened
or removed) in a criss
- cross pattern.
To wing
As ageneral rule, vehicles can betowed withall four wheels on the
ground, provided that the driveshaftfs)are removed (seeChapter
8).
Equipmentspecificallydesignedfor towing shouldbeused and should
be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle,
not the bumper or brackets. Tow hooks are attached tothe frame at
both ends of the vehicle. However, they are for emergency use only
and should not be used for highway towing. Stand clear of vehicles
whenusing the towhooks
- towstraps and chains may break, causing
serious injury.
Safety is amajor consideration when towing and all applicable state
and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used for all
towing (in addition to the tow bar).
While towing, the parking brakeshould be released andthe transmis
-
sion and (if equipped) transfer case must be in Neutral. The steering
must be unlocked (ignition switchin the Off position).Rememberthat
power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.
The Motor Manual Guy

Automotive chemicals and lubricants
A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for
use during vehicle maintenance andrepair. They include a wide variety
of productsranging from cleaningsolvents and degreasersto lubricants
and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.
Cleaners
Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum,
varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleanersleavea dry
- type lubricant
film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not
recommended for use on electrical components.
Brakesystemcleaner isusedtoremove grease and brake fluid from
the brake system where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It
leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by
contaminants.
Electricalcleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits
from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. Itcan also be used
toclean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts
where an oil
- free surface is desired.
Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical com -
ponents such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors
and fuse blocks. It is non
- conductive, non - corrosiveandnon - flammable.
Degreasers are heavy - duty solvents usedtoremove greasefromthe
outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be
sprayedor brushed on, and, dependingon the type, are rinsedoff either
with water or solvent.
Lubricants
Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally
contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce
foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity
ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends
on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil
is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is
used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-
viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and
heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W
- 20 to
20W
- 50.
Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transaxles
and other areas where high
- temperature lubrication is required.
Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where
increased loadsand friction are encountered, suchas for wheelbearings,
balljoints, tie rod ends and universal joints.
High temperaturewheel bearinggrease isdesignedtowithstandthe
extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake
equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenun disulfide (moly),
which is a dry
- type lubricant.
Whitegrease is aheavy grease for metal tometal applications where
water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high
temperatures (usually from -lOO°F to
+ 190°F), and will not wash
off or dilute in the presence of water.
Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually con -
taining moly, used to lubricate high - load parts such as main and rod
bearings and cam lobes for initial start
- up of a new engine. The
assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or
washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function.
Siliconelubricants are usedtoprotect rubber, plastic, vinyl andnylon
parts.
Graphitelubricants are used where oils cannot be used due tocon -
tamination problems, such as inlocks. The dry graphite will lubricate
metalparts while remaininguncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids.
It is electrically conductive and will notfoul electrical contacts inlocks
such as the ignition switch.
Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded
fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.
Heat - sink grease is a special electrically non - conductive greasethat
is used for mounting HE1 ignition modules where
it is essential that
heat be transferred away from the module.
Sealants
RTVsealant isoneof the most widely used gasket compounds. Made
fromsilicone, RTV is air curing,
it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface
irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to
remove, and isused as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and
medium temperature gaskets.
Anaerobic sealant ismuch like RTV in that it can be used either to
seal gaskets or toform gasketsby itself. Itremains flexible, is solvent
resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an
anaerobic sealant and an RTV
- type sealant isinthe curing. RTV cures
when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the
absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after
the assembly of parts, sealing them together.
Threadandpipesealant isused for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic
fittingsand vacuum lines. Itisusually made from a tefloncompound,
and comes in a spray, a paint
- on liquid and as a wrap - around tape.
Chemicals
Anti-seizecompound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and
corrosion infasteners. High temperature anti
- seize, usually made with
copper andgraphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system andmanifold
bolts.
Anaerobiclockingcompounds are usedtokeep fasteners fromvibrat -
ing or working loose, and cure only after installation, in the absence
of air. Medium strength locking compound is used forsmall nuts, bolts
and screws that youexpect tobe removing later. High strength locking
compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which you don't intend
to be removing on a regular basis.
Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical
treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be
noted thatmost oil manufacturers caution against using additives with
their oils.
Gas additives perform severalfunctions, depending ontheir chemical
makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and
varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve
tobreak downcarbon deposits that form ontheinside surfaces of the
combustion chambers. Someadditives contain upper cylinder lubricants
for valves and piston rings, and others chemicals to remove conden
-
sation from the gas tank.
Miscellaneous
Brakefluid isspecially formulated hydraulic fluidthat can withstand
the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be
taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces
or plastics. Anopened container should always be resealedtoprevent
contamination by water or dirt.
Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around
doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim
pieces.
Undercoating is apetroleum - basedtar - like substancethat is designed
toprotect metal surfacesonthe undersideof the vehicle from corrosion.
It also acts as a sound
- deadening agent by insulating the bottom of
the vehicle.
Waxesandpolishes are usedtohelpprotectpainted and plated sur -
faces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the Use
of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize achemical
or abrasive cleaner tohelp remove the toplayer of oxidized (dull)paint
on older vehicles. In recent years many non - waxpolishes that contain
awide varietyof chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been
introduced. These non
- wax polishes are usually easier to apply and
last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.
The Motor Manual Guy

Safety first!
Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with
the job at hand, take the time toensure that your safety is not jeopard
-
ized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can
failure toobserve certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of
an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be
considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are in
-
tendedtomake youaware of the risks andtoencourage a safety con -
scious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.
Essential DOs and DON'TS
DON'T rely ona jack when working under the vehicle. Alwaysuse ap -
proved jackstands tosupport the weight of the vehicle and place them
under the recommended lift or support points.
DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e.wheellugnuts)
while the vehicle is on a jack
- it may fall.
DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission
is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set.
DON'T remove the radiator cap froma hotcoolingsystem - let it cool
or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually.
DON'T attempt to drain the engine oiluntil you are sure it has cooled
to the point that it will not burn you.
DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has
cooled sufficiently to avoid burns.
DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze andbrake fluid
by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.
DON'T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see
Asbestos below)
DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up
before someone slips on it.
DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and
cause injury.
DON'T push on wrenches whenloosening or tighteningnuts or bolts.
Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for
pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped
knuckles if the wrench should slip.
DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to
help you.
DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job.
DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you
are working on it.
DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander,
bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle.
DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving
parts.
DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on
a vehicle.
DO carry out work inalogical sequence andmake sure thateverything
is correctly assembled and tightened.
DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of
children and pets.
DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and
others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.
Asbestos
Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as
brake linings, brake bands, clutchlinings, torque converters, gaskets,
etc.
- contain asbestos. Extreme care mustbe taken toavoidinhalation
of dust from such products since itis hazardous to health.
If indoubt,
assume that they
do contain asbestos.
Fire
Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke
or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle.
But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short
circuit, by twometal surfaces contactingeach other, or even by static
electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite
gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do
not, under anycircumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an
approved safety solvent.
Always disconnect the battery ground
(-1 cable at thebattery before
working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk
spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.
It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use
on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop
at all times. Never try toextinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.
Fumes
Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconscious -
ness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into
thiscategory, as dothe vapors fromsome cleaning solvents. Any drain
-
ing or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventdated
area.
When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on
the container carefully. Never use materials fromunmarked containers.
Never run the engine inan enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust
fumes containcarbon monoxide, whichis extremely poisonous. If you
need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have
the rear of the vehicle outside the work area.
If you are fortunateenough to have the use of an inspection pit, never
drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is
over thepit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the
pit with possibly lethal results.
The battery
Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near thebattery. The
battery normally gives off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which
is highly explosive.
Alwaysdisconnect the battery ground
(-1 cable at thebattery before
working on the fuel or electrical systems.
If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover whencharging the battery
froman external source. Do not charge at anexcessive rate or the bat
-
tery may burst.
Take care when adding water and when carrying a battery. The elec
-
trolyte, even whendiluted, is very corrosive and shouldnot be allowed
to contact clothing or skin.
Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent
the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.
Household current
When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which
operates onhousehold current, always make sure that the toolis cor
-
rectly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly
grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do
notcreate a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel
vapor.
Secondary ignition system voltage
A severe electric shock can result from touchingcertain parts of the
ignitionsystem (suchas the spark plug wires) whenthe engine is run
-
ningor being cranked, particularly if components are damp or theinsula -
tion is defective. In thecase of an electronic ignition system, the secon -
dary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.
The Motor Manual Guy

Conversion factors
Length (distance)
Inches (in)
Feet (ft)
Miles
Volume (capacity)
Cubic inches (cu in; in
3
)
lmperial pints (Imp pt)
lmperial quarts (Irnp qt)
lmperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt)
lrnperial gallons (Imp gal)
lrnperial gallons (Imp gal)
US gallons (US gal)
Mass (weight)
Ounces (02)
Pounds (Ib)
Force
Ounces - force (ozf; oz)
Pounds - force (Ibf; Ib)
Newtons (N)
Pressure
Pounds - force per square inch
(psi: lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; Ib/in2)
Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; Ib/in2)
Kilopascals (kPa)
Torque (moment of force)
Pounds - force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds
- force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in)
Pounds
- force inches
(Ibf in: Ib in)
Pounds
- force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
Pounds - force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
Newton metres (Nm)
Power
Horsepower (hp)
Velocity (speed)
Miles per hour (miledhr; mph)
Fuel consumption*
Miles per gallon, lrnperial (mpg)
Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
X 25.4 = Millimetres (mm)
X 0.3G5 = Metres (m)
X 1.609 = Kilometres (km)
X 16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm3)
X 0.568 = Litres (I)
X 1.137 = Litres (I)
X 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)
X 0.946 = Litres (I)
X 4.546 = Litres (I)
X 1.201 = US gallons (US gal)
X 3.785 = Litres (I)
X 28.35 = Grams (g)
X 0.454 = Kilograms (kg)
X 0.278 = Newtons (N)
X 4.448 = Newtons (N)
X 0.1 = Kilograms - force (kgf; kg)
X 0.070 = Kilograms - force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm2; kg/cm
2
)
X 0.068 =Atmospheres (atm)
X 0.069 = Bars
X 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)
X 0.01 = Kilograms - force per square
centimetre (k
g
f/cm
2
; kg/cm2)
X 1.152 = Kilograms - force centimetre
(kgf cm; kg cm)
X 0.113 = Newton metres (Nm)
X 0.083 = Pounds - force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
X 0.138 = Kilograms - force
(kgf m; kg m)
X 1.356 = Newton metres
X 0.102 = Kilograms - force
(kgf m; kg m)
metres
(Nm)
metres
X 1.609 = Kilornetres per hour (km/hr; kph) X
X
0.354 = Kilometres per litre (km/l) X
X 0.425
= Kilometres per litre (km/l) X
Temperature
Degrees Fahrenheit = (OC x 1.8) + 32
= Inches (in)
= Feet (ft)
= Miles
= Cubic inches (cu in; in
3
)
= lrnperial pints (Imp pt)
= lmperial quarts (Irnp qt)
= lmperial quarts (Imp qt)
= US quarts (US qt)
= lmperial gallons (Imp gal)
= lmperial gallons (Irnp gal)
= US gallons (US gal)
= Ounces (02)
= Pounds (Ib)
= Ounces - force (ozf; oz)
= Pounds - force (Ibf; Ib)
= Newtons (N)
= Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
= Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
= Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; lb/in2)
= Pounds - force per square inch
(psi; lbf/in2; Ib/in2)
- Kilopa~cals(kPa)
= Pounds - force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in)
= Pounds - force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in)
= Pounds - force inches
(Ibf in; Ib in)
= Pounds - force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
= Pounds - force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)
= Newton metres (Nm)
= Horsepower (hp)
= Miles per hour (miledhr; mph)
= Miles per gallon, lrnperial (mpg)
= Miles per gallon, US (mpg)
Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; OC)
= (OF - 32) x 0.56
*It is comnion practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/lOO kilometres (//100km),
where mpg (Imperial) x 11100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x //lo0km = 235
The Motor Manual Guy

Troubleshooting
Contents
Symptom Section Symptom Section
Engine and performance
Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on .....
13
Alternator light stays on
............................
12
Battery will not hold a charge
........................
11
Engine backfires
.................................. 18
Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off
..... 21
Engine hard to start when cold
....................... 4
Engine hard to start when hot
....................... 5
Engine lacks power
............................... 17
Engine 'lopes' while idling or idles erratically
............. 8
Engine misses at idle speed
......................... 9
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
............ 14
Engine rotates but will not start
...................... 2
Engine stalls
..................................... 16
Engine starts but stops immediately
................... 7
Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
........... 19
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start ........... 1
Excessive fuel consumption
......................... 24
Excessively high idle speed
.......................... 10
Excessive oil consumption
.......................... 23
Fuel odor
....................................... 25
Hesitation or stumble during acceleration
............... 15
Low oil pressure
.................................. 22
Miscellaneous engine noises
......................... 26
Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine
isunder load ................................... 20
Starter motor noisy or engages roughly
................. 6
Starter motor operates without turning engine
............ 3
Cooling system
Abnormal coolant loss ............................. 31
Corrosion
....................................... 33
External coolant leakage
............................ 29
Internal coolant leakage
............................ 30
....................................
Overcooling 28
.....................................
Overheatinn 27
Poor coolanr circulation
............................ 32
Clutch
Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged ............ 39
Clutch slips (engine speed increases
with no increase in vehicle speed)
...................
35
Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor
. shift lever
does not move freely in and out of Reverse)
...........
34
Grabbing (chattering)as clutch is engaged
.............. 36
Squeal or rumble with clutch disengaged (pedal depressed)
. . 38
Squeal or rumble with clutch engaged (pedal released)
..... 37
Manual transmission
...........................
Difficulty engaging gears 45
..................... Noise occurs while shifting gears 46
Noisy in all gears
.................................
41
Noisy in Neutral with engine running
...................
40
Noisy in one particular gear
......................... 42
........................................ Oilleaks 44
Slips out of gear
................................. 43
Automatic transmission
Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral ........ 50
Fluid leakage
.................................... 47
General shift mechanism problems
.................... 48
Transmission slips. shifts rough. is noisy or has
no drive in forward or Reverse gears
................. 51
Transmission will not downshift with the
accelerator pedal pressed to the floor
................ 49
Driveshaft
Knock or clunk when transmission is under initial
........... load (just after transmission is put into gear) 53
..........................
Leaks at front of driveshaft 52
....... Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed 54
...................................
Scraping noise 56
Vibration
....................................... 55
..........................
Whining or whistling noise 57
Rear axle and differential
........... Knocking sound when starting or shifting gears 59
... .
Noise same when in drive as when vehicle is coasting 58
............................... Noise when turning 60
........................................
Oilleaks 62
........................................
Vibration 61
Transfer case (4WD models)
Difficult shifting .................................. 64
..........................
Gear jumping out of mesh 63
..........................................
Noise 65
Brakes
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed ...............
69
Brake pedal pulsates during brake application
............ 72
Brakes drag (indicatedby sluggish engine performance
................
or wheels being very hot after driving) 73
Excessive brake pedal travel
.........................
68
Excessive effort required to stop vehicle
................
70
Noise (high
- pitched squeal) .......................... 67
Pedal travels to the floor with little resistance
............ 71
Rear brakes lock up under heavy brake application
........ 75
Rear brakes lock up under light brake application
.......... 74
Vehicle pulls to one side during braking
................ 66
Suspension and steering
Excessively stiff steering ........................... 80
Excessive pitching andlor rolling around
corners or during braking
..........................
78
Excessive play in steering
...........................
81
Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area)
............ 87
Excessive tire wear on inside edge
....................
89
Excessive tire wear on outside edge
...................
88
...........................
Lack of power assistance 82
..............................
Miscellaneous noises 86
.........................
Noisy power steering pump 85
Shimmy. shake or vibration
......................... 77
Steering effort not the same in both
.........................
directions (power system) 84
Steering wheel fails to return to straight
- ahead position .....
83
Tire tread worn in one place
.........................
90
Vehicle pulls to one side
............................
76
Wandering or general instability
...................... 79
This Section provides an easy reference guide tothe more common
problems that may occur duringthe operationof your vehicle
. Various
symptoms and their probable causes are grouped under headings
denoting components or systems. such as Engine. Cooling system.
etc
. They also refer tothe Chapter andlor Section that deals withthe
problem
.
Rememberthat successfultroubleshooting isn't amysterious 'black
art' practiced only by professional mechanics. it's simply the result
of knowledge combined with an intelligent. systematic approach to
a problem
. Always use a process of elimination starting witH the
simplest solution and working through to the most complex
- and
The Motor Manual Guy

Troubleshooting
never overlook theobvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave
thelights on overnight, so don't assume thatyou're exempt from such
oversights.
Finally, always establish a clear idea why a problem has occurred
and take steps toensure that
it doesn't happen again. If the electrical
system fails becauseof apoor connection, check all other connections
in the system to make sure they don't fail as well. If aparticular fuse
continues toblow, find out why
- don't just go on replacing fuses.
Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of
potential failureor incorrect functioning of amore important component
or system.
Engine and performance
1
Engine willnotrotate when attempting tostart
1 Batteryterminal connections looseorcorroded. Checkthecable
terminals at the battery; tighten cable clampand/or clean offcorro
-
sion as necessary (seeChapter 1).
2 Batterydischarged orfaulty.Ifthecableends areclean andtight
onthebatteryposts, turnthe keytotheonpositionandswitchonthe
headlights orwindshield wipers. Ifthey won't run, the batteryisdis
-
charged.
3 Automatic transmission not engaged in park (P)or Neutral
(N).
4 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit. In -
spect allwires andconnectors atthebattery, starter solenoidandig -
nitionswitch (onsteering column).
5 Starter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear. If manual
transmission, place transmission in gear and rock the vehicle to
manually turn the engine. Remove starter (Chapter 5) and inspect
pinion and flywheel (Chapter2) at earliest convenience.
6 Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
7
Starter motor faulty (Chapter5).
8 lgnitionswitch faulty (Chapter12).
9 Engineseized. Try toturnthecrankshaft witha largesocket and
breaker bar on the pulley bolt.
2
Engine rotates but will not start
1 Fuel tank empty.
2 Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly). Check the operation
of electrical components as described in previous Section.
3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded. See previous
Section.
4 Fuel not reaching carburetor or fuel injector. Check for clogged
fuel filter or lines and defective fuel pump. Also make sure the tank
vent lines aren't clogged (Chapter 4).
5 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1 ).
6 Faultydistributor components. Check the capandrotor (Chapter1 ).
7 Low cylinder compression. Check as described in Chapter 2.
8
Valve clearances not properly adjusted (V6engine) (Chapter 28).
9 Water in fuel. Drain tank and fill with new fuel.
10 Defective ignition coil (Chapter 5).
11 Dirty or clogged carburetor jets or fuel injector. Carburetor out of
adjustment. Check the float level (Chapter 4).
12 Wet or damaged ignition components (Chapters 1 and
5).
13 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).
14 Broken, loose or disconnected wires in the starting circuit (see
previous Section).
15 Loose distributor (changing ignition timing). Turn the distributor
body as necessary tostart the engine, then adjust the ignition timing
as soon as possible (Chapter 1
).
16 Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty
coil (Chapter 5).
17 Timing chain failure or wear affecting valve timing (Chapter 2).
-- -
3 Starter motor operates without turning engine
1 Starter pinion sticking. Remove the starter (Chapter
5) andinspect.
2
Starter pinion or flywheelldriveplate teeth wornor broken. Remove
the inspection cover and inspect.
4 Engine hard to start when cold
1 Battery discharged or low. Check as described in Chapter 1.
2 Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injectors. Check the fuel
filter, lines and fuel pump (Chapters 1 and 4).
3 Choke inoperative (Chapters 1 and 4).
4 Defective spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).
5 On 1986 Cherokee Wagoneer and Comanche models with four-
cylinder TBI - equippedengines, aJeep servicebulletin no. INJ TBIIG-9-8
has been issued concerning this problem. Take the vehicle toadealer
and inform him of the problem.
5 Engine hard to start when hot
1 Air filter dirty (Chapter 1
).
2 Fuel not reachingcarburetor or fuel injectors (seeSection 4).Check
for avapor lock situation, brought about by clogged fuel tank vent lines.
3 Bad engine ground connection.
4 Choke sticking (Chapter 1).
5 Defective pick
- up coil in distributor (Chapter 5).
6
Float level too high (Chapter 4).
6 Starter motor noisy or engages roughly
1 Pinion or flywheelldriveplate teeth worn or broken. Remove the
inspection cover on the left side of the engine and inspect.
2 Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing.
7 Engine starts but stops immediately
1 Loose or damaged wire harness connections at distributor, coil or
alternator.
2 Intake manifold vacuum leaks. Make sure all mounting boltslnuts
are tight and all vacuumhoses connectedtothe manifold are attached
properly and in good condition.
3 Insufficient fuel flow (see Cha~ter4).
8 Engine 'lopes' while idling or idles erratically
1 Vacuum leaks. Check mounting bolts at the intake manifold for
tightness. Make surethat all vacuumhoses are connected and ingood
condition.Use a stethescope or alength of fuel hose held against your
ear tolisten for vacuum leaks while the engine is running. A hissing
sound will be heard. A soapy water solution will also detect leaks.
Check the intake manifold gasket surfaces.
2 Leaking EGR valve or plugged PCV valve (seeChapters 1 and 6).
3 Air filter clogged (Chapter 1 ).
4 Fuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel (Chapter 4).
5 Leaking head gasket. Perform a cylinder compression check
(Chapter 2).
6 Timing chain worn (Chapter 2).
7 Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
8 Valveclearance outof adjustment (V6engine)(Chapter 28). Valves
burned or otherwise leaking (Chapter 2).
9 Ignition timing out of adjustment (Chapter 1).
10 lgnition system not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 5).
11 Thermostatic air cleaner not operating properly (Chapter 1 ).
12 Choke not operating properly (Chapters 1 and 4).
13 Dirty or cloggedinjectors. Carburetordirty, cloggedor out of adjust -
ment. Check the float level (Chapter 4).
14 Idle speed out of adjustment (Chapter 1 ).
9 Engine misses at idle speed
1 Spark plugs faulty or not gapped properly (Chapter
1).
2 Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter 1 ).
The Motor Manual Guy

0 - 24 Troubleshooting
3 Wet or damaged distributor components (Chapter 1
).
4 Short circuits in ignition, coil or spark plug wires.
5 Sticking or faulty emissions systems (see Chapter 6).
6 Clogged fuel filter andlor foreign matter in fuel. Remove the fuel
filter (Chapter 1)and inspect.
7 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or hose connections. Check as
described in Section 8.
8 lncorrect idle speed (Chapter 1) or idle mixture (Chapter 4).
9
lncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1 ).
10 Low or uneven cylinder compression. Check as described in
Chapter 2.
11 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1
).
12 Clogged or dirty fuel injectors (Chapter 4).
10 Excessively high idle speed
1 Sticking throttle linkage (Chapter 4).
2 Choke opened excessively at idle (Chapter 4).
3 ldle speed incorrectly adjusted (Chapter 1
).
4
Valve clearances incorrectly adjusted (V6engine) (Chapter 28).
11
Battery will not hold a charge
1 Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter 1).
2 Battery cables loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
3 Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).
4 Loose, broken or faulty wires in the charging circuit (Chapter 5).
5
Short circuit causing a continuous drain on the battery.
6 Battery defective internally.
12 Alternator light stays on
1 Fault in alternator or charging circuit (Chapter 5).
2 Alternator drivebelt defective or not properly adjusted (Chapter1
).
-
13 Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned on
1 Faulty bulb (Chapter 12).
2 Defective alternator (Chapter 5).
3 Fault inthe printed circuit, dash wiring or bulb holder (Chapter 12).
14 Engine misses throughout driving speed range
1 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities inthe fuelsystem. Check fuel
filter (Chapter 1) or clean system (Chapter 4).
2 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).
3 lncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 1
).
4 Crackeddistributor cap, disconnecteddistributor wires or damaged
distributor components (Chapter 1
).
5
Defective spark plug wires (Chapter 1 ).
6 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6).
7 Low or unevencylinder compressionpressures. Check as described
in Chapter 2.
8 Weak or faulty ignition coil (Chapter 5).
9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).
10 Vacuum leaks at intake manifold or vacuum hoses (seeSection 8).
11 Dirty or clogged carburetor or fuel injector (Chapter 4).
12 Leaky EGR valve (Chapter 6).
13 Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4).
14 ldle speed out of adjustment (Chapter 1 ).
15
Hesitation or stumble during acceleration
1 lgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 1).
2 lgnition system not operating properly (Chapter 5).
3 Dirty or clogged carburetor or fuel injector (Chapter 4).
4 Low fuel pressure. Check for proper operation of the fuel pump
and for restrictions in the fuel filter and lines (Chapter 4).
5 Carburetor out of adjustment (Chapter 4).
16 Engine stalls
I
ldle speed incorrect (Chapter 1).
2 Fuel filter clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system
(Chapter 1
).
3 Choke not operating properly (Chapter 1
).
4 Damaged or wet distributor cap and wires.
5 Emissions system components faulty (Chapter 6).
6 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1
). Also check
the spark plug wires (Chapter 1
).
7
Vacuum leak at thecarburetor, intake manifold or vacuum hoses.
Check as described in Section 8.
17 Enginelacks power
1 lncorrect ignitiontiming (Chapter 1).
2 Excessive play in distributor shaft. At the same time check for
faulty distributor cap, wires, etc. (Chapter1).
3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
4 Air filter dirty (Chapter 1).
5 Faulty ignition coil (Chapter5).
6 Brakes binding (Chapters1 and9).
7 Automatic transmission fluid level incorrect, causing slippage
(Chapter I).
8 Clutch slipping (Chapter8).
9 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chap
-
ters 1 and 4).
10 EGR system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
11 Use of sub
- standardfuel. Fill tank with proper octane fuel.
12 Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures. Check as de
-
scribed inChapter 2.
13 Air leak at carburetor or intake manifold (checkas described in
Section 8).
14 Dirty orcloggedcarburetor jets or malfunctioning choke(Chap -
ters 1 and 4).
- -
18 Engine backfires
EGR system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).
lgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 1 ).
Thermostatic air cleaner system not operatingproperly (Chapter 6).
Vacuum leak (refer to Section 8).
Valve clearances incorrect (V6engine) (Chapter 28).
Damaged valve springs or sticking valves (Chapter 2).
Intake air leak (see Section 8).
Carburetor float level out of adjustment (Chapter 4).
19 Engine surges while holding accelerator steady
1 Intake air leak (see Section 8).
2 Fuel pump not working properly (Chapter 4).
20 Pinging or knocking engine sounds when engine is under load
1 lncorrect grade of fuel. Filltank with fuel of the proper octane rating.
2 lgnition timing incorrect (Chapter 1
).
3 Carbonbuild
- up incombustionchambers. Remove cylinder head(s)
and clean combustion chambers (Chapter 2).
4 lncorrect spark plugs (Chapter 1).
The Motor Manual Guy