Kenmore 68 User manual

55039
I N.S T R U C T ! O N S
MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750
ZlG-ZAG SEWING MACHINE
P/N 55039

TABLE OF
CONTENTS Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38
Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10
Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _13
Applique .............................................. 26
Basting ................................................ 11
Biind Stitching ...................................... t9
Buttonholes .................................... 20 - 25
Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15
Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33
Connecting Machine ............................... 4
Darning ............................................... 18
Decorative Stitching ............................... 17
Double Needle ................................. 28 - 29
Fastening aSeam .................................. 15
Feed Dog Control ................................... !5
Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 - 3
Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8
inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16
Inserting and Removing Material ................ 14
Installing Machine Head .......................... 4
Needle and Thread Table ......... '................ 5
Needle Size .......................................... 5
Overcasting ................... '....................... 27
Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37
Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10
Placement of Needle ............................... 5
Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... 6
Reverse Stitching ................................... 11
Replacement of Belt ............................... 31
Setting Stitch Length ............................. 11
Setting Stitch Width ............................... 16
Sewing Light ......................................... 4
Sewing on Buttons ................................. 19
Sewing on Lace ..................................... 26
Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... 30
Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... 27
Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. 16
Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... 26
Synthetics ............................................ 30
Threading Upper Machine ........................ 9
Turning a Corner .................................... 15
What to Do ..................................... 34 - 35
Winding the Bobbin ................................ 7
Writing and Monogramming ............. ,....... 27

FRONT VIEW
o
o
@
o
®
®
®
O
1. Hand Hole Cover Plate
2. Feed Dog
3, Presser Foot
4. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
5, Thread Guides
6. Thread Tension Assembly
7. Thread Guide
8. Face Cover Plate
9. Thread Take.up
10. Arm Cover Plate
11. Bobbin Winder Mechanism
12. Stitch Width Control Knob
13. Stitch Length Control Lever
14. Light Switch
15. Fead Dog Control Knob
t6. Nomenclature Plate

BACK VIEW
¢
17. Ho_d Wheel
_,. Clutch Knob.
39 _u_tonhole R_verse Stitch
{.ength Control
20. Upper Thread Spool_Pros
22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension
_'3. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b
24. Upper Thread G_es
_5, Presser Foot L_v_r
26. Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew
27. Threod Cutte_
28, Needle Plato

O
O O
INSTALLINGMACHINEHEADIN PORTABLE
ANDCABINET
Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear
edge of the machine bed 11_. Raise hinge pins in the
cabinet cutout _2_. Sllp machine head onto the pins
and tighten hinge screws securely _3 .
Lower machine head to front flap.
Screw spool pins in place. Lay the plastic discs over
the spool pins. Discs and pins are packed in the
accessory box.
SEWINGLIGHT
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate
as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing
the light switch. In order to operate the machine
the switch must he on.
To remove bulb, turn light switch off, open the face
cover plate by swinging it open, push bulb in slightly,
turn bulb clockwise, and remove from socket. To
replace, push in new bulb and turn counter clockwise.
See illustration 4.
CONNECTINGMACHINE
Push the plug onto three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Plug machine cord into any 110-120V
wall outlet. See illustration 5.

NEEDLEANDTHREADTABLE
THREAD SIZE NEEDLE FABRIC
SiZE
Cotton 60-100
Synthetic
Silk A
Cotton 60-80
Mercerized 50
Synthetic
Si_k A
11
14
Cotton 40.60
Mercerized 50 16
Mercerized heavy duty
Cotton 30-50 18
Mercerized heavy duty
Sheer cottons, s_JkL and synthetics
iFine laces
Medium weight cottons
Medium weight Silks
Medium weight synthetics
Light weight woolens
Heavy weight cottons
Medium :_o heavy weight woolens
Heavy drapery fabrics
Heaviest cottons as for men's work c|othes
Heaviest woolen coating
NEEDLESIZE
Use KENMORE 6021 needles. The size of the needle should
conform to the size of the thread and both should be suitable
to the material. The same size thread should be used in the
bobbin as on the upper part of the machine for ordinary
sewing. Never use abent needle nor one with a blunt point.
I + II !
.+ _ii
I) I|/
This is the exact length of the needle to
be used in your machine. Comparison with
this illustration will determine whether the
needle you have is the correct one for
your mach_.
PLACEMENTOFNEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest po-
sition by turning hand wheel
toward you. Loosen needle clamp
screw+ Hold the needle with If|at
side away from you. Sllp the
needle as far as it will go into the
needle clamp, and tighten the
needle clamp screw.
+
-I

Needle at
its highest
position.
Pull
out
latch.
Pull bobbin case
straight out.
REMOVINGBOBBIN
CASEFROMSHUTTLE

WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
Place thread on spool /"-__ _ ..... .....
post. Draw thread as _/_11_-_:,--_
0
Wind thread around
bobbin a few times.
0
Place bobbin onto
bobbin winder shaft.
Push bobbin winder
latch until it clicks.
0
Release clutch by
turning clutch knob
toward you. Start
machine.
0
,%,.
When bobbin is full,
winding mechanism
stops.
0
Tighten clutch knob
,_-, ki.:::
and remove bobbin. .......................ii!i:__6_..... _i¸i¸

INSERTINGBOBBININTOBOBBINCASE.........CASEINTOSHUTTLE
Guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.
Pull thread through slot.
Pull thread under tension spring.
Holding [atch, position case into shuttle, release latch.
00
•/
0\0

THREADINGUPPERMACHINE Place thread as illustrated between discs of
the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the
spool of thread from turning and by holding
the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop
up and pa_t the top hook until the thread
can be slipped nto the hook. When thread
tension is released, the spring wire loop will
return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread
in proper place. Release spool of thread and
continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.

_Di YI
............._]i
i YiL::)]ii_,__
I0
PICKINGUP BOBBINTHREAD
Raise presser foot lever.
Hold needle thread loosely in left band and rotate
hand wheel toward you one complete turn.
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.
See illustration.
Place threads back under presser foot.
ADJUSTINGTHEPRESSUREOFTHEPRESSERFOOT-
Push down outer ring of presser foot knob See
illustration). This will release pressure of presser
foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin
until suitable pressure is obtained.
For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be about
half way down. When sewing multiple thickness or
heavy material, reduce the pressure, increase it
when sewing sheer fabrics.
Insufficient pressure may cause skipped stitches or
difficulty in guiding the fabric, if feed dog or presser
foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

SETTINGSTITCHLENGTH
The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired
stitch length position between 0 and 4by turning knob until the indicator
is aligned with the stitch length number desired.
The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary
slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the
longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on
fabric you are sewing. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control
on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.
REVERSESTITCHING
Raise lever for reverse stitching. Lower lever for forward stitching. It
is best to begin and end most seams with reverse stitching often called
back tacking.
BASTING
For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you
regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4
for the longest possible stitch. Machine should be threaded in normal
manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated. Basting is
easily removed by pulling bottom thread. When basting very sheer fabrics,
use a paper backing.
If you prefer to use pins for basting, your KENMORE will sew over the
pins. Be sure to keep the pins at right angles to the seam and the head
of the pin away from the presser foot. Also reduce pressure on presser
foot.
V
11

OADJUSTINGTENSIONS
Fig. 1
Aperfect stitch will have threads locked between the
two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.
(Refer to page 38)
PROBLEM REMEDY
0
Fig. 2
Upper thread too tight
O Upper thread too loose
Fig. 3
12
Decrease Tension
Increase Tension

Whenstitchingis unsatisfactory as in
figures 2and 3, adjust the upper
thread tension. Lower thread tension
requires adjustment less frequently
than the upper thread tension.
When stitch is satisfactory, as in figure
1and seam is badly puckered, the
cause may be tight tensions and both
upper and lower may be adjusted.
When adjusting the tension on the
bobbin case, make slight adjustments
with a screwdriver. ISee page 38)
It is necessary to reduce the upper
thread tension somewhat when doing
decorative stitching. As the stitch
width is increased, the tension should
be decreased.
INCREASETENSION
Turn Clockwise.
DECREASETENSION
Turn Counter
Clockwise,
13
[
J
J
i

INSERTINGANDREMOVINGTHEMATERIAL
For all kinds of sewing, consult chart page
5.
Before placing the material on the machine
see that :
* The presser foot and needle clamp screws
are both tight.
.The sizes of needle and thread suit the
kind of work to be done.
, The needle and take-up lever are at their
highest position.
* The tensions have been properly adjusted.
* The ends of the threads have been drawn
about 4 inches to the rear of the machine.
*The feed dog is up,
,Stitch length and width controls are set at
desired settings.
Experiment by sewing on the fabric to be
used to determine tension adjustments and
correct stitch settings.
Place material under the presser foot, insert
the needle into the material by turning the
hand wheel toward you, lower presser foot
and start sewing. To facilitate placement of
heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the
presser foot lever can be raised beyond the
normal "up" position.
To remove the work, first turn hand wheel
toward you until needle is at its highest
position, then raise the presser foot, draw
material to the rear and cut off excess thread
with the thread cutter located on the presser
bar.
IMPORTANT: Always turn the hand wheel
toward you! When machine is not being
used, place a piece of material over the feed
dog and lower the presser foot. Always
have fabric under the presser foot when
operating the machine. Operating threaded
machine without fabric will cause it to jam
by forcing thread into the shuttle. See pages
32 and 33,
14

CHANGINGTHEPRESSERFOOT
The various attachment feet available for certain kinds of work are
to be fastened to the presser bar.
To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by
raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw,
choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver and make sure that the foot is secure.
TURNINGA CORNER
Stop sewing machine with needle in fabric. Raise presser foot.
Turn fabric. Lower presser foot and continue stitching.
FASTENINGA SEAM
Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.
Lower needle into fabric about ½inch from beginning of seam.
Push stitch length control lever up for reverse stitching. Stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam.
Move stitch length control lever down for forward stitching and
complete seam. When you reach the end, raise the stitch length
control lever and sew back over ½inch of completed seam.
iI j
FEEDDOGCONTROL
The feed dog control knob is situated on the right front of machine
bedplate. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog drops and
does not: pull material. This allows the operator freedom of move-
ment of material, as for darning. For regular sewing, turn knob to
the right, "U" _Feed dog up).
15
kl
N

16
ZIGZAGCONTROL
SETTINGSTITCHWIDTH
lnsert disc _1. Turn the stitch width knob to the desired setting
between 0and 4 on the knob, Zigzag stitch width increases from
! to 4, Straight stitching is possible only with control on 0 setting,,
or by removal of pattern dis_:.
When sewing with the double needte the stitch width control must
not be advanced beyond 2_, setting,
INSERTINGPATTERNDISC
i. Turn handwheel so that the needle is in its highest position,
2. Pull pattern disc shaft cover open,
3. Grasp pattern disc and slip disc onto the shaft. Make sure the
retaining pin ,_g enters hole in disc,
To start a pattern at the beginning, align the engraved dot on
the disc with the cam follower _. To do this. slip the disc onto
the shaft so the engraved dot is at or as near (countercloek.
wise) the cam follower as possible, If the engraved dot is not
aligned with the cam lollower, turn the hand wheel toward you
until the dot is aligned, i_|f the machine is threaded, be sure to
place ascrap of fabric under the presser foot_.
To remove pattern disc. tollow steps 1 and 2, grasp disc and pull
from shaft.
SEWINGWITHREVERSEPATTERNDISC
Your machine is provided with four reverse pattern discs, discs
numbers 21, 22, 23 and 24. When using these pattern discs, the
stitch length control should be set at 4. The reverse stitch length
control _; should be in the upright position for most materials,
Depending upon the type of fabric used, this control may need
adjusting. Turn the control slightly to the right or to the left as
required to obtain the patterns illustrated on page 17. Practice on
an extra piece o[ fabric to be used.

1 2 I
>
>> !i
6789 10 21 22 23
DECORATIVESTITCHING
This machine enables you to sew beautiful decorative and embroidery stitches by means of various discs
supplied with your machine, The movements of the needle are controlled by the disc. Basic decorative
stitches are made with the satin stitch fo0St, stitch width at 4 and stitch length at the red mark on the
indicator plate. Stitch length will vary slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. Pattern
may be changed by using any other lengt h or width, All patterns also can be made with double needle.
See page 25. When using the disc numbers 2]. 22, 23 and 24, the stitch length control should be set at 4,
Disc number 21 also makes the stretch stitch when it is used as directed in the instructions for Sewing
on Stretch Fabrics, See page 27.
It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension somewhat [or decorative stitching. As the stitch width
is increased, the tension should be decreased, This will prevent the material from puckering and will
prevent the bobbin thread from coming up on the top of the fabric.
€
24
17
= t
J
[

DARNING
WITHPRESSERFOOT:
1. Turn feed dog control to left.
2. Press down outer ring of presser foot knob, see page 10. With presser foot knob
in this position, mending, darning, monogram work, etc. may be done.
3. Stretch fabric tightly between two spring embroidery hoops and place under needle.
4. Lower presser bar so thread will have some tension. When you start to darn,
move fabric back and forth to cover darning area. Then turn fabric and continue
sewing at right angles to the previous stitching. Use medium machine speed. You
can make any length stitches desired. Slow movement of fabric will make short
darning stitches. Fast movement will make long stitches.
5. When you finish darning, raise presser foot and remove fabric. Increase pressure
for general sewing by pressing down inner pin of the presser foot knob, Turn feed
dog control to right.
18
WITHOUTPRESSERFOOT:
1. Turn feed dog control to left.
2. Remove presser foot.
Proceed as directed under steps 3and 4 above.
3. When you finish darning, raise the presser foot lever and remove fabric, Replace
presser foot, and increase pressure for general sewing. Turn feed dog control to
right.

@
O
O
SEWINGONBUTTONSu..d,.o
Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot
and lower foot to hold securely. Drop feed dog.
Turn hand wheel by hand until needle point is just
above button. Adjust stitch width so that needle will
align with a hole of button. Turn hand wheel again
by hand so that needle goes into second hole, readjust
stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times,
turning hand wheel manually. Finish sewing with an
extra 2 inches of thread, draw thread to reverse side
and tie securely.
li using a 4hole button repeat the above procedure.
NOTE: To make asmall thread shank when sewing
on a flat button, place a straight pin or needle between
the holes of the button.
BLINDSTITCHING
Disc _2
Stilch width 2 _May vQry depending on type of materiol]
Stitch length 3
1. Prepare the hem with a turned and edgestitched
[inlsh, or
2. Apply seam tape along the raw edge with either
straight or zigzag stltching.
3. Turn hem and baste about _inch from the edge
of the seam tape using longest stitch on the sewing
machine.
4. Fold garment back along basting llne and stitch
along garment fold using disc _2.
5. Remove basting and press hem. The basting step
may be eliminated in a straight hem.
19