Leofric Building Systems SECURA User manual

INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
SECURA SHED

Fixing Accessories
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DESCRIPTION USED FOR PRODUCT
M8 x 120mm MUSHROOM
HEAD BOLT
Securing Panels and Wall Plate
Together
M8 x 140mm MUSHROOM
HEAD BOLT
Securing Corner Panel to Wall
Panels
M8 HEX NUT Securing Panels and Wall Plate
Together
M8 WASHER Securing Panels and Wall Plate
Together
M8 PLASTIC TAPER WASHER Securing Panels and Wall Plate
Together
48mm GALV TRUSS HANGER Securing inter wooden Trusses to
the Wall Plate
30mm GALV TWIST NAIL Truss Hanger
M8 x 75 COACH SCREW Gable Fascia to Wall
M1500 ANGLE BRACKET Batten to Gable Fascia

DESCRIPTION USED FOR PRODUCT
40mm POLY TOP PIN Gutter Board
No. 10 x 50mm C.S.K WOOD
SCREW
Batten to Inter Truss
28mm BLACK SELA CAP Roof Sheet
28 x 6mm BLACK SELA
WASHER
Roof Sheet
No. 10 x 38mm C.S.K WOOD
SCREW
Roof Sheet
M6 x 50mm MUSH HEAD BOLT Batten to M1500 Angle Brk’t
M6 NUT Batten to M1500 Angle Brk’t
M6 WASHER Batten to M1500 Angle Brk’t
WOOD TEK 6.3 x 32 T19 M1500 Angle Brk’t to Gable Fascia
CLEAR SILICONE TUBES Seal Panels
BLACK BASE SEAL STRIP Base of Panels to Concrete Slab
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DESCRIPTION USED FOR PRODUCT
30 x 30 x 90 DEG UPVC ANGLE
mr
Base of Panels to Concrete Slab
No. 10 x 50mm C.S.K WOOD
SCREW
Batten to Inter Truss

Concrete Shed Base
Why do I need a concrete base? Can’t I use paving blocks or slabs, or just put it on tarmac?
e design of the concrete prefabricated building with panels bolted together requires a strong concrete ra
base. Any movement in the base will cause the shed to move.
Responsibility for the concrete base is the customer’s responsibility.
e old saying, “a building is as good as its foundations”, is as true for your concrete sectional shed as it is for
any other type of building. e better the specication of the base, the more peace of mind you will have in
the future, if you skimp on the base, you may regret it later!
Concrete base design.
Your concrete base needs to be designed properly to be strong enough not to crack or sink over the lifetime of
your shed.
Your shed base should be designed to suit the soil on your site. For instance, if the soil is clay, with the
likelihood of movement in the future, you will need to reinforce it, and probably make the ra thicker. If your
building is over 30sq m, you will need to gain approval from your local control oce, who will require to
inspect and approve your concrete shed base plans.
Ensure that you have a CLEAR and LEVEL base on which to assemble shed.
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You should thicken the edges of the base to a depth to suit the ground conditions. e thickness of the
concrete in the base will also depend on the soil conditions. e concrete mix design should be suitable for
a shed base – speak to your supplier and tell them what the concrete is intended for so they can provide the
correct mix. A minimum concrete thickness of 100mm (4”) is normally recommended, laid over at least the
same thickness of well compacted clean hardcore. e hardcore should be “blinded” with sand if you are
going to lay a damp proof membrane (dpm), normally 1200g polythene sheet. Steel reinforcement mesh will
further strengthen your base, your builder will advise.
If you intend to store items in your shed once it has been built, we recommend the inclusion of a dpm.
Without the dpm there is no guarantee that damp will not spread into the building. Don’t forget that the base
will need time to “go o” or cure, before we can build on it. Allow at least a week or more in winter.
e concrete base should be square. e shed needs to sit on a base about 75mm (3”) larger all round. When
setting out your base, make sure that the shuttering is square. To make sure your base is square, measure the
diagonals AD and BC – they should be the same. If not, adjust your shuttering until they are – your base will
then be square.
e external dimensions should be 150mm (6”) larger (75mm each side and front and rear) than the size of
the building you have bought. If in any doubt, seek advice and conrmation of the size of your building from
the company.
e concrete base should be level. ere must be no slope from side to side, back to front or front to back. If
the base isn’t level, the panels may not t together properly, the roof may not t, and it may be dicult to lay
the necessary concrete llet. If the fall is to the rear, you may well get puddles forming at the back of the shed.
e base must be higher than the surrounding area. It should stand out of the ground by at least 25mm (1”).
If not, water will stand on the base and will leak under the panels.
If the ground slopes down to the base, you should ideally dig out the ground for 150mm (6”) around the
base, and dig out a trench 150mm (6”) deep, backlling with gravel or pea shingle, aer retaining the existing
ground. Don’t forget to take into account surrounding ground levels when you position your personnel door
– if the ground is higher than the base, it will catch as you open it. Obvious when you think about it, bit late
when you have built the shed!
So, your base should be designed to suit your local conditions. It should be strong enough, at, square and
level, higher than surrounding ground and 150mm (6”) larger than the building size (external dimension).
Finally, your concrete base should be positioned properly. Don’t forget that the personal door with project
from the side of the building when it is being opened, so position the base so that the door doesn’t foul a wall
or other building when you open it.
PLEASE LOOK UP! Trees, buildings etc can overhang, branches and gutters can aect the positioning. Just
because it ts on the base, doesn’t mean it will t at eaves height!
Don’t position the building too close to other buildings or walls, as this can form a water trap – always specify
gutters on your shed to minimise the potential for water leaking into your shed. Allow for guttering on your
building if you order it – add in 150mm each side (apex) or 125mm to the length (knight) for guttering.
If you are using a local builder to carry out the base works for you, please give him this before he starts work.
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With a CHALK LINE mark out the external
size of your shed ensuring that it is square, then
APPLY Black Bitumen tape to the base just
inside of the CHALK LINE, so you can still see
the CHALK LINE when your concrete panel is
in position.
Step 1
Step 2
Starting in the LEFT hand REAR CORNER assemble your corner then using the HEEL AND TOE
method of assembling assemble 3 panels either way loosely. Using a SPIRIT LEVEL upright your panels and
tighten the bolts ensuring that the external tops are ush.
Once you have done this CONTINUE with the rest of your building keeping it fairly even until all of the
concrete is assembled, placing doors and windows where required.
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Where required, a window consists of the frame,
two short panels and a lintel. Butt the short panels
together and to a standing standard panel. Secure
with Hexagon Head Bolts 4” (100mm) long, nuts
and tapered washers.
Apply a black foam strip 3/4” wide all round the
window frame. e strip is self adhesive and
although it is compressed, in due course it will
expand to form a seal between the frame and the
concrete units.
Stand the window on the short panels with the
outside face of the panels and the small sill
projecting over the short panels. Support the
window until the lintel and the adjacet panel are
xed.
Place the concrete lintel on top of the window and
secure to the standing standard panel. Secure with
Hexagon Head Bolts 4” (100mm) long, nuts and
tapered washers.
WINDOWS
NOTE
ere must be at least one standard panel
width between windows or
between a window and a personal door.
e window handle (if applicable) is
also tted at this stage.
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DOORS
Fort Knox Personal Access door
Butt the door frame in the required position against the
standard panel. Secure to the steel frame with
Mushroom Head Bolts, nuts and tapered washers.
Place a lintel above the frame and x to the standard
panel with Hexagon Head Bolt 4” (100mm) long, nuts
and tapered washers.
Fix the next standard panel and secure to the frame and
lintel as for the previous panel.
NOTE: It may be necessary to remove and rex the
weather strip from the steel frame to gain access for
the coach bolts.
It may be necessary to drill through the frame into the
concrete to x the door to the surround.
IF NOT engaging correctly use the 3
sets of 3 allen head bolts on the door
hinge to adjust the level until the locks
fully engage.
Closure Set
Fit square bar through the hole in the door and locate
the handle / lock sets on the ends of the square bar.
Fix the handle / lock sets with the screws provided and
check operation of the handles and lock.
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Step 3
Fascias
General
Timber xing battens are slotted into the
back of a fascia and can be slid along the
length to align with the metal support
brackets bolted to the walls and front
lintel of the building. Fixings through
each bracket into a batten are made with
5/8” number 8 CSK screws.
Where two or more pieces of fascia are
required to make up the necessary length,
an overlap will occur and it will be
necessary, to neatly cut away the top edge
of the hidden fascia with a hacksaw.
Now that you have assembled your concrete panels you need to put your FRONT and REAR fascias up so
that they are ush with the outside of the building. Once you have done this put the WALL PLATES on,
keeping them ush with the inside of the panels and allowing an overhang on the outside of the building
for the fascia boards.
Front Fascia
Space four fascia brackets (S41) along the front lintel one at each end and the other two evenly spaced
beween them - fastening with one 65mm Coach Bolt per bracket.
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Ensure that the lintel and purlin units are correctly positioned, rmly seated and securely xed before
proceeding.
Oer up the front fascia to the brackets, the bottom edge of the fascia level with the bottom edge of the lintel
and an equal amount of projection of post at each side. Secure through the brackets into the battens.
Side Fascia
Fix angle brackets 3” (75mm) from each end of the
timber rring on both side walls. As for the front timber
rring, allow approximately 1/2” (12mm) overhang of
each bracket from the rring piece.
Space remaining brackets between xed brackets and
secure in a similar manner.
Where two or more fascia pieces are required to make up
a length, it is necessary at their overlap to carefully cut the
bottom of the lower fascia to allow it to slide inside the
upper fascia.
Fit wooden battens to the fascia to correspond with the
positions of the brackets. Oer up the side fascia to the
brackets and secure as for the front fascia.
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Rear Fascia
Temporarily x one bracket to the top of the panels at
each end of the rear wall with 65mm Coach Bolts and
space the remaining two brackets evenly between them.
Oer up the fascia to the brackets, aligning the height at
each end with the side fascias, and establish the
location of the battens and their bracket xing holes.
Withdraw the fascia and remove brackets from the wall.
Secure the brackets to the fascia in the positions marked.
Corner Pieces
Where two fascias meet at a corner, t the corner
trim, drill two 1/8” diameter holes through the
bottom edge of the trim and the fascia and
secure with two 1/2” No. 8 self tapped screws. e
galvanized corner capping should be tted aer
the ashings have been secured.
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Wall Plate
Temporarily position a timber wall plate 3 ⅜” (85mm)
wide by 2” (50mm) deep on top of both ank walls.
Each wall plate should be extended the full length of
the wall and trimmed inwards approx 1” (25mm) from
each to allow for the end trusses.
Note that each wall plate may be supplied as two
separate pieces which are butted together on assembly.
Mark xing hole positions in the timber through the
holes in the tops of the panels at 2’ 8” (800mm)
intervals. Remove the wall plates and drill pilot holes
3/16” (4.5mm) diameter. into the timber approx. 1 ½”
(41mm) deep. Reposition the wall plate and x with
coach screws 3” (75mm) long and tapered washers.
Decide at which rear corner the downpipe is to be tted as the guttering, when nally secured should be
given a slight fall to the downpipe position.
Lay out the gutter components on the fascia in their correct order and using a string line to determine
the fall available, position the front vinyl gutter brackets accordingly, securing each with two 5/8” No. 8
screws at not more than 3” centres to a batten.
Bolt the complete fascia assembly to the rear wall and clip the length of guttering into the vinyl brackets,
cutting to correct length where necessary with ne-toothed hacksaw. Where it has been necessary to cut
a gutter to length, notches should be made at the ends to accommodate the gutter joint straps.
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Intermediate Trusses
Lower intermediate trusses into truss hangers and x in
position with square twisted nails 1 1/2 (40mm) long.
Truss Hangers
Place truss hangers on wall plate equidistantly along the
wall plates at a maximum distance of 3’4” (1m) apart.
Ensure hangers on opposite walls are in line to ensure
the intermediate trusses will be square to the walls.
Fix truss hangers by nailing square twisted nails 1 ½”
(40mm) long into the tops of the wall plates. e inside
face of each truss hanger must be ush with the inside
face of the wall plate.
Attach your internal ROOF
TRUSSES into position using the
COACH SCREWS at 4 INTERVALS
then prop them up so they are upright
and attach your TIMBER PURLINS to
the roof.
Step 4
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Purlin Brackets
Fix purlin brackets in FOUR positions on each end truss using studs and nuts provided. e brackets are
xed on the sloping sides only.
DO NOT x brackets to the tower studs at the bottom of the truss at this stage.
If desired, purlin brackets may be xed before end trusses are erected
Fixing Purlins
Fit purlins between end trusses and portal frames and
between intermediate portal frames, to rest on the
respective brackets. Purlins may need to be trimmed
to length to ensure a proper t. Mark through holes in
the brackets and drill 1/2” (12mm) diameter. clearance
holes through the purlins.
Fix purlins to the TRUSS and PORTAL FRAME
BRACKETS with coach bolts 5” (125mm) long and
nuts (truss) and 3” (75mm) long and nuts (portal
frame).
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Now attach your uPVC fascia boards to the outside of your building, making the two ends ush with your
front and rear fascia, then can.
Step 5
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Roof Fixing Steps
1. Angled prole always sits to the front of the building with steel mesh tted underneath.
2. Timber Wall Plate sits to sides, front & rear on top of the concrete panels, the angled rring strips are
tted to the sides with the slope from front to rear. e internal purlins are tted across the width of
the building. e uPVC fascia boards are tted to the timber wall plates.
3. The roof sheets are tted standing from the front le hand side. Both sides when completed should
have a full corrugation overlap over the side of the building / fascia.
4. e roof sheets are lined to the front of the building and at each position of the front & rear wall plates
and the internal purlins, roof xings and washers are screwed down from the top of the roof into the
supports. Do not overtighten as this may distort the roof sheet. Each roof xing should be xed
through the high point of the corrugation prole.
5. A small pilot hole should be made with a drill to make sure the entry point for the xing lines up with
the support.
6. e xings should be entered approx. every fourth corrugation across the width of the roof sheet. e
next roof sheet should sit on top of the rst sheet with at least a two corrugation overlap. e xings
should be applied through the high point of where the roof sheets overlap once the second sheet has
been added.
7. Continue with the roof sheets until the width of the building has been reached, try to match the side
overlap over the right hand side of the building keep the roof looking symmetrical.
8. Upon completion of screwing the roof xings into the supports the xing caps should be tted over the
xing and washer to seal the xing.
Step 6

Flashing
Clip one length of GALVANIZED ashing to the
top edge of the front fascia with the 7” ap
horizontally on the roof sheeting and secured to the
top edge of the fascia with self-tapping screws.
Drill 10mm (3/8”) diameter xing holes through
the ashing and the roof sheeting to hook bolt the
roong to the front raer.
Step 7
Once you have completed your roof attach the FASCIA to the overhead using the screws provided.
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Exterior nish - Joints
Ensure joints are clear then seal external joints
between panels by applying mastic with the gun
provided. Cut the nozzle of the cartridge so that a
bead of approximately 1/4” (6mm) is delivered.
Aer applying to the outside of all joints press
nishing granules into the surface of the mastic.
Step 8
NOTE
If the outside walls are to be separately
nished with a textured weather coating,
DO NOT apply a mastic lling.
Internal nish - Joints
Silicone all internal joints with clear silicone