Mesa/Boogie Three Channel Dual & Triple Rectifier Solo... User manual

OOGIE
B
MESA
Owner's Manual

Hello from the Tone Farm...
YOU, the smart player and all around intuitive human, have put your trust in us to be
your amplifier company. This is something we do not take lightly. Our reward is that
we've made a classic amplifier and by choosing this amplifier, you have become part of
the MESA family...Welcome! Our goal is to never let you down. Your reward is that you
are now the owner of our most popular selling power amp, the 2:100. Bred of fine all
tube amp heritage...benefiting from the many patented pioneering MESA/Boogie circuits
that led to the refinement of your new instrument. Feel confident, as we do, this product
will inspire many hours of musical satisfaction and lasting enjoyment. It was built with
you in mind, by players who know the value of a fine musical instrument and the
commitment it takes to make great music. The same commitment to quality, value and
support we make to you...our new friend.

Precautions
OVERVIEW 1/2
FRONT PANEL CONTROLS & SWITCHES
LEVEL CONTROLS 2
PRESENCE 2
POWER ON 3
STANDBY 3
MODERN 3
REAR PANEL - SWITCHES & JACKS
INPUTS A / B 4
BIAS SWITCH 4
GROUND LIFT 5
SPEAKER JACKS 5
TUBE BAY 6
DRIVER TUBES 12AX7A 6/7
AC RECEPTACLE 7
LINE FUSE 7
TUBE MAINTENANCE
DIAGNOSING POWER TUBE FAILURE 8
DIAGNOSING PRE-AMP TUBE FAILURES & PROBLEMS 9
Feature Article by Randall Smith On Bias Adjustment 10/12
SPEAKER HOOK-UP GUIDE & IMPEDANCE MATCHING 13/14
POSSIBLE HOOK-UP SCHEMES - Amplifier to Speaker Cabinets 15/18
WIRING EXAMPLES USING THE SIMUL-CLASS 2:100 19/20
Feature Article By Randall Smith On How Tubes Work 21/23
TABLE OF CONTENTS

PRECAUTIONS & WARNINGS
Your MESA/Boogie Amplifier is a professional instrument. Please treat it with respect and operate it properly.
USE COMMON SENSE AND ALWAYS OBSERVE THESE PRECAUTIONS:
YOUR AMPLIFIER IS LOUD! EXPOSURE TO HIGH SOUND VOLUMES MAY CAUSE PERMANENT HEARING DAMAGE !
No user serviceable parts inside. Refer service to qualified personnel. Always unplug AC power before removing chassis.
EXPORT MODELS: Always insure that unit is wired for proper voltage. Make certain grounding conforms with local standards.
READ AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF PROPER USAGE.
WARNING: EU: permission from the Supply Authority is needed before connection.
WARNING: Vacuum tube amplifiers generate heat. To insure proper ventilation always make
certain there is at least four inches (100mm) of space behind the rear of the amplifier cabinet.
Keep away from curtains or any flammable objects.
WARNING: Do not block any ventilation openings on the rear or top of the amplifier. Do not
impede ventilation by placing objects on top of the amplifier which extend past the rear edge of
its cabinet.
WARNING: Do not expose the amplifier to rain, moisture, dripping or splashing water. Do not
place objects filled with liquids on or nearby the amplifier.
WARNING: Always make certain proper load is connected before operating the amplifier.
Failure to do so could pose a shock hazard and may result in damage to the amplifier.
Do not expose amplifier to direct sunlight or extremely high temperatures.
Always insure that amplifier is properly grounded. Always unplug AC power cord before
changing fuse or any tubes. When replacing fuse, use only same type and rating.
Avoid direct contact with heated tubes. Keep amplifier away from children.
Be sure to connect to an AC power supply that meets the power supply specifications listed on
the rear of the unit. Remove the power plug from the AC mains socket if the unit is to be stored
for an extended period of time. If there is any danger of lightning occurring nearby, remove the
power plug from the wall socket in advance.
To avoid damaging your speakers and other playback equipment, turn off the power of all related
equipment before
making the connections.
Do not use excessive force in handling control buttons, switches and controls. Do not use
solvents such as benzene or paint thinner to clean the unit. Wipe off the exterior with soft cloth.
Be sure to have the warranty card filled out by the store at which it was purchased and return to
Mesa/Boogie.

PAGE 1
Overview:
Congratulations on your choice of the RECTIFIER STEREO 2:100 as your power amplifier and welcome to the
MESA/Boogie Family. This 2 rack space unit is born of legendary stock and traces its lineage to the mighty Dual Rectifier Solo
Head
. Here the stunning performance of the Dual is faithfully recreated in a stereo format that duplicates the power section exactly
when the
Dual is set to its Silicon Diode rectifier setting. Rectifier tubes were not included in this package, as their size did not permit
inclusion along with an overall consensus among players asked, that those needing 200 watts of this type of aggressive power would
require the tighter, faster response of the silicon diodes. The eight 6L6 power tubes (4 per side) are fan cooled and kick out 100 watts
of all-tube power per channel. Three 12AX7s’ make up the driver section and these are housed inside the unit. Preamp tubes used in
this manner rarely wear out as there is little or no exposure to excessive vibration and they are operating under minimal gain require-
ments .
The
RECTIFIER STEREO 2:100 is a “smart” power amplifier as it contains the MODERN Switchable Voicing feature. It responds
to a trigger pulse sent by either of its companions, the
Rectifier Recording Preamp or the TriAxis Programmable Preamp .
When a cable is connected to the MODERN trigger port and this feature is switched via any tip-to-ground type logic, the negative
feedback in the power section of the
2:100 is reduced, unleashing a sound of true ferocity. This is a trademark sound in the Dual and
Triple Rectifier Solo Heads and has become the most recorded sound in heavy modern rock.
REAR VIEW: 2:100
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E
4OHM
8OHM
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or
electric shock, replace fuse with
same type and rating only. Do not
expose this unit to rain or moisture.
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or electric
shock, Do not remove cover. No user-
serviceable parts inside. Refer
servicing to qualified personnel.
E N G I N E E R I N G
MUST MATCH TUBES SEE OWNERS BOOK
CHAN. B CHAN. A
8OHM
4OHM
SPEAKERS SPEAKERS
MODERN
RECTO INPUTS RECTO INPUTS
GROUND
SWITCH
LIFT
GROUND
BIAS
SWITCH
6L6
EL34
POWER FUSE
6 A
SLO
BLO
120 V~
60 Hz
6 A
I
N
P
U
T
S
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL NORMAL
2:100
FRONT VIEW
STANDBYPOWER
ONON
PRESENCE PRESENCE
MODERN
LEVEL A LEVEL B
E N G I N E E R I N G
Operating Instructions

Overview: (Continued)
Without further delay, connect up your favorite preamp and get ready to experience one of the
most commanding sounds in rack-mount history as
Recto power goes stereo for the first time in this amazing package.
NOTE: BEFORE YOU MOUNT THE 2:100 IN YOUR RACK! This is an extremely aggressive and powerful amplifier intended for use
with one of the above mentioned
MESA preamplifiers in large venues. If after trying it you feel you may have chosen more amp than
you need, you may find one of the more forgiving
MESA strereo power amplifiers such as the Stereo 2:50 or the Stereo Simul-
Class2:90
more suited to your style or application. Save the packing material and keep the amplifier in perfect condition and you
should be able to return it to the place of purchase for full credit toward one of the less aggressive models that might perhaps better
suit your needs. If this stunning, agressive power well suits your playing style and needs, congratulations and by all means rock on.
And now on to the controls and features of your new 2:100 . Please take some time along the way and read this operating manual,
it will prove to be quite worth while in the end and will help you to enjoy
your new amplifier to its full extent.
LEVEL CONTROLS:
Each channel of the 2:100 has its own LEVEL Control. If the amplifier is being fed by signals from a typical
pre-amp, try a setting of 2 as a starting point. If the amp is being fed by lower-level signals such as those from (minus) -20db type
effects units, etc..., you may need to raise the Levels as high as 2:00 or 3:00.
NOTE:
Remember to turn the LEVEL Control to zero on any channel not con-
nected to a speaker or load resistor! A Load must be present at all times when
either channels’ LEVEL Control is dialed to anything other than zero. Failure
to comply to this procedure can cause serious damage to your 2:100’s power
section.
PRESENCE CONTROLS:
Each channel on the 2:100 has its own “active” PRESENCE Control. These controls provide a boost
in the upper mid-range/lower Treble zone, which are the frequencies that tend to get obscurred in the energy of live performance; use
them when you need to cut through a “loud mix.”
Use these PRESENCE Controls with discretion as they can make for some ear
damaging, almost harsh sounds if set too high - especially if the TREBLE Control
on your pre-amp is dialed up extremely high.
PAGE 2
PRESENCE PRESENCE
MODERN
LEVEL A LEVEL B
E N G I N E E R I N G
STANDBYPOWER
ONON
PRESENCE PRESENCE
MODERN
LEVEL A LEVEL B
E N G I N E E R I N G
STANDBYPOWER
ONON
FRONT PANEL CONTROLS

PAGE 3
FRONT PANEL CONTROLS: (Continued)
POWER SWITCH & POWER UP:
First remove the protective covers from the tubes (plastic webbing) before con-
necting the A.C. cord to a power receptacle.
Make all necessary connections including pre-amp, effects, speakers and instrument before
you flip the STANDBY switch to its ON position. AC power is turned on via the POWER switch
and indicated by the pilot lamp. Before switching on the power, place the STANDBY switch into
its Standby position and allow at least 30 seconds of warm-up time before switching the STANDBY
switch to the ON position.
This start up procedure helps extend tube life by preventing a high voltage turn-on surge. (How-
ever, all of our amplifiers are tested to withstand this extra stress, just in case this procedure is
neglected by the user.) But ignoring this procedure everytime the amplifier is used will shorten the tubes toneful life.
Never remove any of the power cords terminals. All three terminals of the A.C. power cord must be connected and always check
that the power receptacle has the proper voltage present. Also, make sure that the power cord is inserted all the way in when
connecting to a power receptacle.
STANDBY SWITCH:
Perfect for set breaks...this toggle switch also serves an even more important purpose. In the standby
position the tubes are at idle so that during power up they may have a chance to warm up before being put to use.
Before the power is switched on, make sure the STANDBY switch is in the standby position.
And as mention above, wait at least 30 seconds before changing to the ON position.
MODERN:
This jack is the trigger port for the auto-tracking MODERN feature. This jack can receive a trigger pulse from the
corresponding jack on the
MESA Rectifier Recording Preamp or Triaxis Programmable Preamp . This smart power amp auto-
modifies the amount of negative feedback in the power section when the MODERN mode in Channel 2 of the Recto Preamp is
selected or switched to via the Footswitch. The Front Panel LED indicates when the feature is active and negative feedback has been
reduced.
If used with the Triaxis - use one of the 4 programmable switch
jacks and store under a user preset. This reshaping is crucial to the
sound of the MODERN mode and using this feature duplicates the
circuit and the performance of this punishing mode in the Dual &
Triple Rectifier Solo Heads.
NOTE: Use unshielded cable of good quality when connecting the MODERN trigger port to your preamp or master switching unit.
Shielded cable will also work ,but is unnecessary.
MODERN
E N G I N E E R I N G
STANDBYPOWER
ONON
8 OHM
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or
electric shock, replace fuse with
same type and rating only. Do not
expose this unit to rain or moisture.
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or electric
shock, Do not remove cover. No user-
serviceable parts inside. Refer
servicing to qualified personnel.
E N G I N E E R I N G
GROUND
SWITCH
LIFT
GROUND
BIAS
SWITCH
6L6
EL34
MUST MATCH TUBES SEE OWNERS BOOK
POWER FUSE
6 A
SLO
BLO
120 V~
60 Hz
6 A
CHAN. B CHAN. A
8 OHM
I
N
P
U
T
S
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL NORMAL
MODERN
RECTO INPUTS RECTO INPUTS
ON
STANDBY
ENCE PRE
MODERN
VEL A LEV
E N G I N E E R I N G
ON
POWER
ON
POWER
ENCE PRE
MODERN
VEL A LEV
E N G I N E E R I N G
ON
STANDBY

INPUTS:
Located on the Rear Panel, these two 1/4” jacks are the Channel A and Channel B inputs for the 2:100. These are the
inputs for pre-amps and/or effects, depending on how you have your system wired. You may drive the
2:100 with your pre-amp
directly or choose to come from the last effect in a chain and drive the power amp this way. Either way is fine and up to your
preference. The amplifier is stereo, offering two separate channels of
amplification. If you wish to use only one of its channels, it is neces-
sary to: 1 ) Make sure a speaker (or load resistor) remains con-
nected to a speaker jack on both channels, including the unused
one; or 2 ) Turn the LEVEL Control of the unused channel to zero.
(This is necessary because an amplifier channel receiving any amount
of signal at its input will require a “load” at its output - or damage will
most likely result.)
The RECTO INPUTS are wired such that when the companion Rec-
tifier Recording Preamp is used, the circuit remains exactly true to
the signal path between preamp and power section as it occurs in the Dual and Triple Rectifier Heads . To achieve this duplication,
a driver tube responsible for the effects return stage and all related circuitry in the 2:100 must be removed and this includes the
LEVEL Conbtrols as they are part of this circuitry. As a result, when using the RECTO INPUTS, you will use the Recto Pre LIVE
OUTPUT Control as your overall final master level control.
TUBE BIAS:
Your 2:100 was designed with versatility in mind. The BIAS SWITCH allows you to adapt the power output section
of the
2:100 in order to use the other classic pentode power tubes, the British style EL 34. These tubes are largely responsible for the
signature sound of many immediately identifiable and wonderful sounding amps created in Great Britain
and used on some of the best recordings to date. The nature of their sound is usually brighter in the
extremely high frequencies...some players find this almost thin at first. However, aficionados of the EL34
sound know that nothing has the lushness of harmonics or spread like a power amp using EL34’s. In
truth EL34’s do focus in on a region of upper harmonics that 6L6’s reproduce, but not really enhance, in
the same way the EL34’s do.
This characteristic is sometimes preferred for sounds that range from a soft clip that would be used for
chording or soloing, to an all out high gain crunch or lead sound. Players that use mostly these types of sounds may prefer the EL34
clip to the 6L6’s that come standard in the 2:100 . If you need a variety of sounds and rely on a clean chording sound much of the time,
you will likely prefer the stock compliment of 6L6’s that the 2:100 comes fitted with. We feel the 6L6 is a more balanced sounding
tube that produces plenty of harmonic lushness, while at the same time delivering the rich lows that are crucial to both a warm clean
sound and huge, tight high gain crunch sound.
PAGE 4
E N G I N E E R I N G
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or
electric shock, replace fuse with
same type and rating only. Do not
expose this unit to rain or moisture.
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or electric
shock, Do not remove cover. No user-
serviceable parts inside. Refer
servicing to qualified personnel.
GROUND
SWITCH
LIFT
GROUND
BIAS
SWITCH
6L6
EL34
POWER FUSE
6 A
SLO
BLO
120 V~
60 Hz
6 A
I
N
P
U
T
S
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL NORMAL
RECTO INPUTS RECTO INPUTS
MUST MATCH TUBES SEE OWNERS MANUAL
MODERN
REAR PANEL FEATURES:
REAR VIEW:
2:100
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E
4 OHM
8 OHM
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or
electric shock, replace fuse with
same type and rating only. Do not
expose this unit to rain or moisture.
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or electric
shock, Do not remove cover. No user-
serviceable parts inside. Refer
servicing to qualified personnel.
E N G I N E E R I N G
MUST MATCH TUBES SEE OWNERS BOOK
CHAN. B CHAN. A
8
OHM
4 OHM
SPEAKERS SPEAKERS
MODERN
RECTO INPUTS RECTO INPUTS
GROUND
SWITCH
LIFT
GROUND
BIAS
SWITCH
6L6
EL34
POWER FUSE
6 A
SLO
BLO
120 V~
60 Hz
6 A
I
N
P
U
T
S
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL NORMAL
E N G I N E
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or
electric shock, replace fuse with
same type and rating only. Do not
expose this unit to rain or moisture.
BIAS
SWITCH
6L6
EL34
POWER
120 V~
60 Hz
6 A
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL
RECTO INPUT
MUST MATCH TUBES

PAGE 5
TUBE BIAS: (Continued)
We recommend the 6L6 for reliability: In our many tests and continued use of the currently
available EL34 type power tubes on the market today, we regret to say that they do not appear to be as rugged in construction as the
available 6L6. This is another reason why your
2:100 was shipped with 6L6 power tubes. If you plan to use the EL34’s we suggest
that you keep a full set of tubes and extra fuses with you during all performances in the event of a tube failure occurring when using
the currently available EL34’s.
GROUND LIFT:
This mini-toggle switch is extremely useful in reducing the hum and buzz caused by ground loops which occur in
rack installations. Ground loops occur when there is more than one path for grounds between electronic units. There are three main
type of ground loops; each one contributes its own trademark component of buzz or hum. The three
types of ground loops are:
1 ) Grounds being connected via the ground lugs of the power cords on the units. The rule-of-thumb here
is that one and only one unit in a rack should have a connection to the AC power ground; all the other
units in the rack should have their grounds lifted by using 3 to 2 adaptors on their AC plugs. We suggest
grounding the Power amp (no adapter).
2 ) Ground loops occuring because of two or more audio cables connecting two components. The most common solution is to
diconnect the shield from the sleeve connection at one end of some of the inter-connecting cables, so that only one cable between
each device has an intact ground shield. Some experimentation is required to find which cable is best for conducting the ground, and
which cables are best suited to have the special “clipped ground.” We recommend trying the intact-ground cables for the signal path
which flows, say, from an Effects Send jack to an effects unit; and trying the clipped-ground method on the cable which connects the
effects output back into an Effect Return.
3 ) Ground loops created by the physical contact between the metal chassis of the components and the steel rack rails. It is for this
third type of ground loop that the GROUND ISOLATION Switch was provided. This switch effectively lifts the electronic circuit ground
from the metal chassis ground (which otherwise must be done manually by disconnecting a wire inside of the amp.) Here again, the
rule is that one device in your system - and usually only one - needs its circuit ground connected to its metal chassis ground; all others
should be lifted (in other words, disconnected) for quietest operation. (Some effects units provide similar switches; some are con-
structed such that the input ground and the output ground are permanently separated; in other cases, the method used to isolate the
grounds is unclear.) Again, some experimentation is vital to discovering which combination of “lifted” and “grounded” works best in
your rack...and our GROUND ISOLATION Switch makes this process much easier.
NOTE: If the 2:100 is operated outside of a rack installation, the switch should generally be set to the Normal position, or squealing,
buzzing and oscillation may occur. Always check this switch before thinking that something has gone wrong with your amp!
SPEAKER OUTPUTS:
The 2:100 provides one 8 Ohm and two 4 Ohm speaker outputs for each channel. When using a single
8 Ohm speaker or 8 Ohm cabinet on a channel, connect the speaker or cabinet to the 8 Ohm jack. If using two 8 Ohm speakers
(assuming they are wired in parallel) or cabinets on a channel, plug them both into the 4 Ohm jacks. ( The logic here is that two 8 Ohm
loads connected in parallel add up to a 4 Ohm total load.) Mismatching of speaker
impedance will not cause damage or severe loss of power. (Extreme mis-matches
will decrease tube life, however.)
MESA/Boogie 4x12 and 4x10 cabinets come
standard wired to 8 Ohms and are wired in series-parallel.
Some Non-
MESA 4x12 cabinets are wired 16 Ohms using four 16 Ohm speakers.
By wiring all four speakers in parallel, you can reduce the cabinet to an impedance
load of 4 Ohms (assuming the speakers are 16 Ohms each.) Further back in this manual we have included a number of possible
wiring schemes - amps to cabinets, that may be of some use to you when considering how to configure your rig.
REAR PANEL (Continued)
E R I N G
WARNING : To reduce risk of fire or electric
shock, Do not remove cover. No user-
serviceable parts inside. Refer
servicing to qualified personnel.
GROUND
SWITCH
LIFT
GROUND
FUSE
6 A
SLO
BLO
I
N
P
U
T
S
NORMAL
4OHM
8OHM
CHAN. B CHAN. A
8OHM
4OHM
SPEAKERS SPEAKERS

PAGE 6
SPEAKER OUTPUTS: (Continued)
NOTE: If you opt to use only one channel of the 2:100 with speakers connected to that
channel’s output only, you must turn the unused channel’s level control to zero! Otherwise the channel will be operating without
a load, and damage to the tubes and/or the transformer will result.
TUBE BAY:
The power tubes used in the 2:100 are MESA/Boogie STR-430 type 6L6 GC’s. These tubes have been tested in
the amplifier during several “burn-in” periods before leaving the factory. You can expect 6 months to 2 years (or more) of outstanding
performance from your
MESA/Boogie power tubes, depending on use. Tube wear is gradual and usually goes unnoticed until new
replacements are installed. Worn power tubes tend to sound flat with reduced punch, clarity and high end. Occasional loss of power
or sporadic blowing of fuses is nearly always caused by
troublesome power tubes.
Often, you can spot the tube at fault and replace it alone, at
considerable savings over replacing all the output tubes. A
tube that arcs or “flashes over” inside should be replaced
immediately. (In an emergency, you can just remove the
bad tube and go on with the show...”running on 3 cylin-
ders.”) Sometimes a tube will “short out” intermittently, turn-
ing red-hot all over the large metal plate inside. But usually
a momentary switching off of the STANDBY or POWER Switch will enable the tube to straighten out its electron flow and return to
proper operation. Should this happen repeatedly, careful observation will usually reveal which tube is shorting, even though one or
two others may also turn red-hot after a few moments.
By viewing the tubes, try to verify which one is reddest or turns red first - that is the bad one and the others are most likely unharmed.
Internal circuitry is built to withstand tube failure as much as possible; even if damage were to occur, it would be minor and easily
repairable.
When replacing tubes, please use only the
MESA/Boogie types specified. Using other tube brands and/or types will invalidate your
amplifier’s warranty! To remove tubes, you must first push back the spring retainers clamped against the tube base. When re-installing
power tubes, check that the spring clamps are making good contact with the tube base; bend them in toward the center before
plugging in the tube, if necessary. Avoid excessive wiggling of the tubes when removing or installing them, as it can break off the small
plastic key which insures correct orientation of the tube in the socket. Make sure you check out the sections on Power Tube and Pre-
Amp Tube maintenance located further back in this manual. Some helpful tips on prolonging the life of your amplifiers’ tubes makes
these maintenance sections worthwhile reading.
DRIVER TUBES: 3 x 12AX7A
The three small tubes are type 12AX7A, also known as 7025 or ECC83. These tubes are very
long lasting and trouble free in the 2:100 ; should they ever need replacement due to a specific malfunction, genuine MESA replace-
ments are recommended for best performance.
NOTE: You must remove the top cover of the chassis in order to gain access to the driver
tubes. These tubes can become quite warm. Allow them to cool down before changing and its
always a good idea to power down the unit when changing any of the tubes.
Also, be aware that some of the circuitry components (namely the large round capaci-
tors running parallel to the three driver tubes) will store a substantial amount of elec-
trical charge even after the amplifier is powered down. For safety reasons be sure
REAR PANEL (Continued)
MESA
MESA
12AX7
12AX7
MESA
MESA
12AX7
12AX7
MESA
12AX7
GENTLY ROCK TUBE BACK AND FORTH WHILE
PULLING UPWARD CAREFULLY
MESA/Boogie type STR 430 - 8 x 6L6
COOLING FAN
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E

PAGE 7
REAR PANEL (Continued)
DRIVER TUBES: 3 x 12AX7A
to grab hold of the particular pre-amp tube when replacement is required. Do not allow
your fingers, hands or rings/jewelry to come into contact with any other part (s) of the amplifier’s internal circuitry.
No other user serviceable parts exist in side. Refer service to qualified personnel. Always unplug AC power before removing the
top cover of the amplifier.
AC RECEPTACLE:
The total power consumption for the 2:100 is 6Amps @ 120 Volts. Thus, a 15 Amp circuit (which is what
most house circuitry is wired with) is adequate. Make sure the Euro style A.C. power cord is firmly seated in the power receptacle
before powering up the unit. Always connect the A.C. cord to a 3 terminal grounded socket. If none are available,
connect the A.C. power cord to a ground lift adaptor and then connect to a 2 terminal outlet. This may also be
necessary from time to time for noise problems.
This style of power cord will make tear-downs and cable routing a lot easier and save you time as well. If you
should ever need a replacement, just call and we’ll be happy to send you another one for a nominal charge or visit
your nearest
MESA/Boogie Pro Center.
LINE FUSE:
This is the 2:100’s A.C.’s ( Alternating Current ) main fuse and provides protection from outside A.C. fluctuations,
as well as power tube failure damage. Should the FUSE blow, replace it with the same rating in a slo-blo type package. The domestic
U.S. version requires a 6 Amp SLO-BLO FUSE. A power tube short or failure is often the cause of a blown fuse...Follow the cold
start procedure mentioned earlier in the ON / STANDBY switch section and watch the power tubes as you flip the STANDBY to
the ON position. If a power tube is going bad or is arcing you will see it!
Flip the STANDBY switch to STANDBY immediately and replace the faulty power tube and the
FUSE if necessary. If you see nothing abnormal as you lift the STANDBY switch, it is possible that a
power tube shorted temporarily and blew the FUSE. If this is the case it may work again normally.
To be extra safe you may want to replace all power tubes in the troubleshooting tradition and save
the replaced set as spares. Carry along a few extra fuses for they too could be worth their weight in
gold someday.
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E
F
U
S
E

PAGE 8
TUBE NOISE & MICROPHONICS
You may occasionally experience some form of tube noise or microphonics. Certainly no
cause for alarm, this quirky behavior comes with the territory and the Tone. Much like changing a light bulb, you don’t need a
technician to cure these types of minor user serviceable annoyances and in fact, you’ll be amazed at how easy it is to cure tube
problems...by simply swapping out a pre-amp or power tube!
First may we suggest that you set the amplifier up on something so that you can get to the tubes comfortably without having to bend
down. It also helps to have adequate lighting as you will need to see the tube sockets clearly to swap tubes. Use caution and common
sense when touching t he tubes after the amplifier has been on as they may be extremely hot! If they are hot and you don’t want to
wait for them to cool off, try grasping them with a rag and also note that the glass down around the bulbous silvery tip is considerably
less hot which makes it easier to handle. Gently rock the tube back and forth as you pull it away from its socket.
DIAGNOSING POWER TUBE FAILURES:
There are two main types of tube faults: shorts and noise. Both large and small tubes
may fall prey to either of these problems but diagnosis and remedy is usually simple.
If a fuse blows, the problem is most likely a shorted power tube and shorts can either be mild or severe. In a mildly shorted tube the
electron flow has overcome the control grid and excess current flows to the plate. You will usually hear the amp become distorted and
begin to hum slightly. If this occurs, quickly look at the power tubes as you switch the amp to STANDBY and try to identify one as
glowing red hot. It is likely that two of a pair will be glowing since the “shorted” tube will pull down the bias for its adjacent mates, but
one tube may be glowing hotter — and that one is the culprit. The other two are often fine — unless they’ve been glowing bright red
for several minutes.
Because there is no physical short inside the tube (just electrons rioting out of control) merely switching to STANDBY for a few
moments then back to ON will usually cure the problem...at least temporarily. Watch the tubes carefully now. Should the problem
recur, the intermittent tube will visibly start to over heat before the others and thus it can be identified. It should be replaced with one
from the same color batch, shown on its label. Call us and we will send one out to you.
The severe short is not nearly so benign. In the worst cases, a major arcing short occurs between the plate and the cathode with
visible lightning inside the glass and a major noise through the speaker. If this is seen to happen, IMMEDIATELY turn the amp to
STANDBY. By this time the fuse probably will have blown. Such a short is usually caused by a physical breakdown inside the tube
including contaminate coming loose or physical contact (or near contact) between the elements. Replace it and the fuse with the
proper slo-blo type and power up the amp using the power up procedure as we described earlier in this manual.
TUBE NOISE:
Often caused by contamination within in a tube, the culprit can usually be identified, and by lightly tapping on the
glass, you will probably hear the noise change. Hearing some noise through the speakers while tapping on the 12AX7’s is normal
however. And the one nearer the INPUT will always sound louder because its output is being further amplified by the second 12AX7.
The power tubes should be all but quiet when they are tapped. If crackling or hissing changes with the tapping, you have probablyTUBE
NOISE CONTINUED: found the problem. To confirm a noisy power tube, merely put the
2:100 on Standby, remove it from its socket
and turn it back on. It will cause no damage to run the 2:100 briefly with one power tube missing. You may notice a slight background
hum, however, as the push-pull becomes unbalanced. Whenever you are trying to diagnose a suspect tube, keep your other hand on
the POWER and STANDBY switches ready to shut them off instantly in the unlikely case you provoke a major short.
If you think you’ve located a problem tube but aren’t sure, we recommend substituting the suspect with a new one just to be sure of
your diagnoses. You will be doing yourself and us a big favor by just following the simple guidelines previously mentioned regarding
tube replacement. You’ll probably be successful with much less effort than is required to disconnect everything and haul the unit to a
technician who will basically perform the same simple tests. If the tubes are still within their six-month warranty period, we will happily
send you a replacement. Just note the color designation on the tube label so that we can send you the appropriate match.

PAGE 9
DIAGNOSING PRE-AMP TUBE PROBLEMS:
Because your amplifier is an all tube design, it is quite possible that you will at
some point experience minor pre-amp tube noise. Rest assured - this is no cause for alarm and you can take care of the problem
yourself in a matter of minutes by simply swapping tubes.
Let us begin by saying; It is a “very good” idea to keep at least a couple of spare pre-amp tubes on hand at all times to insure
uninterrupted performance. These minor pre-amp tube problems can take many forms but can generally be described in two catego-
ries: Noise and Microphonics. Noise can be in the form of crackling, sputtering, white noise/hiss and/or hum. Microphonic problems
usually appear in the form of a ringing or high pitched squealing that gets worse as the gain or volume is increased thus are more
noticeable in the higher gain “HI” modes. Microphonic problems are easily identified because the problem is still present even with the
instruments’ volume off or unplugged altogether - unlike pick-up feedback which ceases as the instrument is turned down. Micro-
phonic noise is caused by mechanical vibration and shock: think of banging a microphone around and you’ll understand where the
word came from.
The best way to approach a pre-amp tube problem is to see if it occurs only in one specific mode or channel. This should lead you to
the tube needing replacement. Then all that remains is to swap the suspect tube for a known good performer.
If you cannot narrow down the trouble to a specific mode or channel, the problem may be the small tube that drives the power tubes
which is operational in all modes and channels. Though rare, a problem with the driver tube would show up in all aspects of perfor-
mance - so if you can’t narrow the problem down to being mode or channel specific, you may want to try replacing the driver tube.
Driver problems generally show themselves in the form of crackling or hum in all modes of performance and/or weak overall output
from the amplifier. Occasionally an anemic driver tube will cause the amplifier to sound flat and lifeless, but this is somewhat uncom-
mon, as worn power tubes are a more likely suspect for this type of problem.
Sometimes making the diagnosis is more trouble than it’s worth and it’s faster and easier to merely replace the small pre-amp tubes
ONE AT A TIME with a replacement known to be good. But MAKE SURE you keep returning the tubes to their original socket until you
hit the one that cures the problem. You’ll notice that tubes located nearer to the INPUT jack always sound noisier...but this is because
they are at the start of the chain and their noise gets amplified over and over by the tubes that follow. The tube that goes into this
“input socket” (usually labeled V1) needs to be the least noisy of the bunch. The tube that goes at the end of the preamp chain - just
ahead of the power tubes - can be quite noisy without causing any problem at all. The tubes in your amp have already been located
in the most appropriate sockets and this is why you should NEVER pull them all out at once and ALWAYS swap them one at a time.
ALWAYS return a perfectly good tube to its original socket. Also it’s a good idea to put the amp on STANDBY when swapping tubes to
reduce the heat build up in the tubes themselves and to prevent explosive noises (which can still occur even if you are pulling the
tubes away from their sockets gently) from coming through the speaker.
Remember, take your time, be patient and chances are real good that you can fix your amp yourself by finding and replacing the bad
tube. It kills us to see someone who has shipped their amp back to us...and all it needed was a simple tube replacement! If you must
send back your amp, unplug the power cord, speaker and reverb cables then remove the chassis from the cabinet by unscrewing the
four mounting bolts on top. The chassis then slides back like a drawer and comes out. Remove the big power tubes and mark them
according to their location from left to right 1, 2 etc. They need to be wrapped separately with plenty of wadded up newspaper around
them and put in a smaller box within the larger carton.
To wrap the chassis, use plenty of tightly wadded up newspaper so there is at least six inches of “crush space” between the chassis
and the cardboard box. Bubble wrap also works well, but please DON’T use styrene peanuts - they will shift during transit and get
lodged inside your electronics as well as allowing your amp to end up at the bottom of the box unprotected and possibly damaged.
Pre-amp tubes don’t normally wear out as a rule.
Therefore, it is not a good idea to change them just for the sake of changing them. If there isn’t a problem - don’t fix it. If there is no
result from your substitutions, it may be possible that you have more than one problematic tube. Though rare, this does happen and
though it makes the troubleshooting process a little more intimidating, it is still possible to cure the problem yourself.
NOTE: It is normal to hear a slight metallic ringing sound when tapping on the preamp tubes. As long as the tube does not break into
oscillation or start crackling or any other form of bizzare noise, it is considered normal and functional.

PAGE 10
An Article written by Randall Smith
Here’s a question we often hear:
“Why doesn’t
MESA put bias adjustments
in their amplifiers?”
Well, there’s a short answer and a long answer to this question.
The short answer is that during my 12 years of repairing Fenders, one of the most frequent problems I saw was bias controls that were
either set wrong or that had wandered out of adjustment due to vibration. As any honest tech will tell you, there’s lot’s of easy money
to be made by sprinkling “holy water” on amplifiers ... uh, what I meant to say is “Your amp needed biasing.” See what I mean? What
customer is going to argue with that?
It only takes a moment and a volt meter: The Fender diagram shows how: “Adjust this trim pot for - 52 volts.” That’s it. Nothing more.
Now don’t be fooled into thinking that tubes “draw” more or less bias, they don’t. The way a bias supply is connected to a tube is akin
to a dead end road, it just trails off to nowhere without really completing a circuit. It’s a static voltage and regardless of what tube is in
the socket — or even if the tubes aren’t plugged in at all, it doesn’t change the bias voltage a bit.
So the end of the short answer is this: Since a bias supply needs to put out the right voltage and never vary, I wanted to build
amplifiers that were individually hard wired to the correct values and NEVER needed adjustment. And for 25 years, that’s how
MESABoogies have been built.
Time to change tubes? Just plug our tubes into any one of our amps and you’re DONE. No tech needed. NO bills and no BS about
biasing. And most important: The bias is RIGHT because it can’t change!
Now, you want the long answer? Here’s more information on how our hard-wired bias avoids trouble. Please read on.
But first, let’s make an important distinction. Our business is designing and building high performance amplifiers. And for this we need
tubes whose variance is within a narrow range. Our warehouse is full of rejects ...oh, they work — they just don’t perform within our
tolerance range. We have a very sophisticated computer - based tube testing system (nicknamed “Robotube”) that matches and
measures tubes over seven important parameters. It can even predict which tubes are likely to have a shortened lifetime — even
though they work perfectly during the test.
Because our business is building quality amps, we can afford to reject a lot of wayward tubes. The guys you hear complaining
because
Boogies don’t have bias adjusters are primarily in the business of selling tubes - not amps. They don’t want to throw away 30
percent of their inventory, so they promote the idea that tubes outside our parameters can be used to “customize” amplifiers and they
criticize us because our amps can’t be adjusted to accommodate their out-of-
MESA tolerance tubes.
Now you might be thinking, “But I thought you just said that tubes don’t “draw” bias, therefore they don’t effect the bias supply and thus
it doesn’t need to be adjustable.”
When you set the bias (whether it’s by selecting the right resistors, as we do, or adjusting a trimmer — which is quicker) what you are
doing is establishing the correct amount of idle CURRENT that flows through the power tubes. But you can’t adjust the current
directly, you can only change it by adjusting the amount of bias VOLTAGE that goes onto the tubes’ control grids.
BIAS ADJUSTMENT: part of a continuing series
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
( )
( )
( )
,
( , )
( )
Structure of a 6L6 / 5881
Beam Power Pentode.
PLATE
BEAM-
CONFINING
ELECTRODE
SCREEN
GRID
GRID
CATHODE

PAGE 11
BIAS ADJUSTMENT: (Continued)
Voltage and current are NOT the same. Current is the AMOUNT of electricity, the “quantity”
— and is measured in amperes. Voltage is the degree of electric charge — like the “pressure” to use the old water analogy. Let me
illustrate how different voltage and current are:
When you scrape your feet across a carpetted floor in dry, wintery conditions, your body can become charged with 50,000 to 100,000
volts of static electricity. And when you reach for the door knob, a spark jumps and you feel it! The voltage is super high but the current
(measured in micro-amps) is tiny - otherwise you would die from electrocution.
Contrast this with your car battery, which puts out a mere 12 volts. You can lay your hands right across the terminals and not feel a
thing. Yet the amount of current available can run to several hundred amperes .. enough to turn over a cold engine and get it started.
So current and voltage are two totally separate electrical parameters — though when you multiply them together, you get POWER,
which is measured in watts.
When you set the bias of an amplifier, you are adjusting the static VOLTAGE at the control grid of the tube in order to produce a
desired amount of idle CURRENT flowing to the tube’s plate. A small change in grid voltage, produces a large change in the amount
of current flowing — and that’s basically how a tube works. Say that again because it’s super important: A small change in voltage at
the grid causes a large change in current flowing to the plate. See, that’s the essence of amplification: A small change causing a large
change. And here it’s a small voltage change causing a large current change.
The bias conditions are what determines how much current flows through the big power tubes when you’re not playing. And what
drives your speakers is flucuations in that current flow when are ARE playing. If the amount of current increases and decreases 440
times per second, then you’ll hear an A note. If the fluctions in current flow are large and still at 440 per second, you’ll hear an A that
is LOUD!
But for purposes of biasing, it’s the amount of “plate current” flowing with no signal applied that’s important. Unfortunately current is
hard to measure because the circuit must be interuppted — as in “cut the wire” — and the meter spliced “in series” with the broken
circuit. But measuring VOLTAGE is easy. It is not necessary to interrupt the circuit because a voltage reading can be taken in
PARALLEL with the circuit intact.
Thus, as a matter of convenience, most bias settings are given in volts at the grid ... even though current through the plate is the
important factor. In fact plate current is so inconvenient (and dangerous) to measure that Fender doesn’t even state what the correct
value should be. They only give the grid voltage that will produce that current. (That’s the minus 52.) But that only happens if the
tubes being used are “in spec.”
As long as the tubes ARE “in spec”, the right bias voltage will always give the correct plate “CURRENT” — but then there’s no need
for the bias voltage to be adjustable!
If the tubes are NOT in spec, then the only proper way to re-set the bias is to cut the circuit and measure the current while adjusting
the bias ... but no manufacturer I know even STATES the desired current value! Be that as it may, when the original bias voltage is
altered far enough, it will compensate for the tube’s abnormal performance and the correct amount of idle current flow may then be
restored. Clearly this is something most repair techs should not attempt.
Some newer amps have LED indicators connected to the circuit which will turn on when the right threshold of current flow has been
reached. This is an improvement, and almost worthy if you’re willing to except resistors and lights added into your amplifier’s audio
path — which we aren’t.
The other “advantage” of this system is that it allows some amp manufacturers to avoid matching their power tubes. The thinking is
that adjusting the bias to each tube separately eradicates the inherent differences between the tubes by insuring that the same
current flows through each one.

PAGE 12
BIAS ADJUSTMENT: (Continued)
Again, this has some merit .. but it’s still not as good as using tubes that are matched in the
first place because compensating for the mis-match causes the push-pull circuit itself to become unbalanced. Two wrongs don’t really
make a right.
Some of the other recommended biasing, “methods” — such as -”.. tubes running red hot, increase the bias .. sounds harsh and runs
too cool, turn it down ...” are guesswork at best. Luckily, one of the great things about tube amps is that they can usually stand some
abuse without causing any real harm ... at least not immediately.
But don’t these alterations imply that you are second-guessing the amp designer and that there’s a better set of operating conditions
that the designer missed but the tube sellers have discovered?
Now some players may like the sound of their amp altered by tubes with extreme characteristics and with the bias set to help
compensate. But often it is the mere novelty of change that they’re really responding to and when the amp goes back to the proper
original way, we’ve seen them be far happier still!
Because every part in every one of our designs has been meticulously evaluated, compared and stressed over — no matter how
seemingly insignificant it might be. And with every design we look for a “sweet spot” where all the parameters — including the bias —
come together to give the best sonic performance, consistently and reliably. Every part and voltage is important — yet no one
complains that these other parameters aren’t available for tinkering.
Consider our patented
Simul-Class circuitry where there are two different bias voltages used for separate pairs of power tubes ... and
changing one voltage also changes the other. Great care goes into getting this just right and we think we’d be asking for trouble to
have it adjustable for the world to play with ... unless you like paying to have your amp messed up. Sorry, I meant to say, “Uh, ... your
amp needed biasing.”
If that doesn’t appeal to you, then merely plug a matched set of
MESA tubes into one of our amps and you’re ready for tone.
Guaranteed. You’d be amazed at the number of service calls we field every day that lead to a diagnosis of out-of-tolerance, non-spec
tube problems. To think these would be prevented by including a bias adjustment is something of an insult to you and us. If you put the
wrong size tires on your car, do you think changing the pressure will make them right?
Please, don’t think this is a blanket indictment of the other guys selling tubes — it isn’t. And their tubes aren’t all bad either. It just
doesn’t make sense to pay more of your hard earned cash for tubes that were probably made in the same Russian or Chinese factory
and which have the possibility of being outside the performance window we select for your amp. And it pains us to hear the hype and
mystique built up around biasing when twenty-five years of evidence affirms our decision to make bias circuits that “never need
adjustment”. How much money and trouble that has saved
MESA/Boogie players you couldn’t estimate.
Our rigorously tested and hand selected tubes are available at your nearest
MESA/Boogie Pro Center or from us directly. Nobody
offers better price, quality or warranty than we do ... so why swerve?
Next time we’ll talk about our part in developing the great Sylvania STR 415 type 6L6 and how we’re on the verge of seeing something
fairly close reappear on the market. Remember, we still have some of these super rugged mondo-bottles available for older amps —
Boogies only please! Until then, Relax, Breathe and Nourish your soul!
Cheers!
MESA/Boogie Ltd.
Randall Smith
Designer & President

PAGE13
SPEAKER IMPEDANCE MATCHING & HOOK-UP GUIDE:
IMPEDANCE:
Wiring up speakers to provide the most effective load and making sure that all of them are in phase will help in
creating the best sound possible. This is not too difficult, as long as you understand a few things about loading and how to connect
your speakers to provide an optimal resistive load.
MESA/Boogie amplifiers can handle 4 and 8 ohms effectively. Never run below 4 Ohms in a tube amplifier unless you are absolutely
certain that the system can handle it properly; this can cause damage to the Output transformer. A few amplifiers can handle 2 Ohms
effectively without damaging them ( for example the
MESA’S Bass 400+ ). You can always have a higher resistance ( 16 Ohms, for
example ) without damaging results, but too low of a resistance will likely cause problems.
MIS-MATCHING:
When running a higher resistance ( for example: 8 Ohm output into 16 Ohm cabinet ), a slightly different feel
and response will be eminent. A slight mismatch can provide a darker smoother tone with a little less output and attack. This response
is a result of the amplifier running a bit cooler. Sometimes when using more than one cabinet a mismatch will be the only option.
WHAT IS MY CABINETS IMPEDANCE:
If you have only a single speaker, you just match that single speakers impedance to the
amplifier, and you are done. In many cases, you will have a number of speakers, and then you must calculate the “load” that the
amplifier will need to support. There are generally three ways to wire multiple speakers together. They are as follows:
SERIES:
When you wire ( hook-up ) speakers in Series, the speakers resistance ( as measured in ohms ) is additive - i.e. putting
two 8 Ohm speakers in Series results in a 16 Ohm load.
Speaker A = 8 Ohms Speaker B = 8 Ohms
SERIES:
Connect the Negative side of Speaker A
to the Positive side of Speaker B
POSITIVE = NEGATIVE =
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W

PAGE 14
SPEAKER IMPEDANCE MATCHING & HOOK-UP GUIDE: (Continued)
PARALLEL:
When wiring in parallel, the resistance of the speakers decreases. Two 8 Ohm speakers wired in ( hooked-up )
Parallel results in a 4 Ohm load. It’s easy to calculate the effect of a resistive load when all the speakers are all the same resistance.
It is really not suggested to wire different resistive load values in Parallel ( 8 and 4, 16 and 8 etc. ) The formula for figuring the total
impedance in Parallel is the multiplication of the two loads divided by the sum of the two loads - i.e. putting two 8 Ohm speakers in
Parallel results in a 4 O hm load. Connect the Positive side of Speaker A to the Positive side of Speaker B - Connect the Negative side
of Speaker A to the Negative side of Speaker B.
COMBINATION OF SERIES & PARALLEL:
This is really just two sets of Parallel wired speakers connected in series. This is
how you maintain a consistent load with multiple speakers.
The importance of this is more evident when you have more
than one cabinet to connect to your amplifier. This is when
you need to figure out the loads and how to wire them up
without applying too low of a resistance on the amplifier.
Simply connect the Positive side of Speaker A to the Posi-
tive side of Speaker C.
Connect the Negative side of Speaker A to the Positive side
of Speaker B, then on to the Positive side of Speaker D and
finally on to the Negative side of Speaker C.
And lastly, connect the Negative side of Speaker B to the
Negative side of Speaker D.
4 Eight (8) Ohm speakers wired in Series Parallel + a Total
Load of 8 Ohms.
POSITIVE
Speaker A
8 Ohms
Speaker B
8 Ohms
NEGATIVE
Total Load = 4 Ohms
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
Made by
Electro-Voice
B
L
A
C
K
S
H
A
D
O
W
SPEAKER A SPEAKER B
SPEAKER C SPEAKER D
NEGATIVE
All 4 Spkrs.are 8 Ohms
POSITIVE

PAGE15
12
5
4
4 Ohm Cabinet
3
8 OHM 4 OHM 4 OHM
Partial back view of
some Mesa amp
8 Ohm Cabinet
SAFE MISMATCH
WIRING SCHEMES...Amplifier to Speaker Cabinets
4 OHM 8 OHM 16 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
16 Ohm Cabinet
4 OHM 8 OHM 16 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
16 Ohm Cabinet
SAFE MISMATCH
8 OHM 4 OHM 4 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
8 OHM 4 OHM 4 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
8 Ohm Cabinet
4 Ohm Cabinet
8 Ohm Cabinet

PAGE16
8 OHM 4 OHM 4 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
8 Ohm Cabinet 8 Ohm Cabinet
6
8 Ohm Cabinet 16 Ohm Cabinet
8
4 OHM 4 OHM 8 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
SAFE MISMATCH
8 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
SERIES BOX
8 Ohm
4 Ohm 4 Ohm
4 Ohm Cabinet 4 Ohm Cabinet
4 OHM 4 OHM 8 OHM
Partial back view of amplifier
PARALLEL BOX
8 Ohm
16 Ohm 16 Ohm
16 Ohm Cabinet 16 Ohm Cabinet
9
4 OHM 4 OHM
7
WIRING SCHEMES...Amplifier to Speaker Cabinets
CORRECT MATCH
CORRECT
MATCH CORRECT
MATCH