North Road Technologies Geyser 6000-3.0 Operating instructions

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The Geyser 6000–3.0™ Heat Pump Water Heater
Installation & Owner’s Manual
North Road Technologies, L.L.C. http://northrdt.com
Made in USa

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SAFETY INFORMATION
Examine your water tank; make sure it is not rusty or leaking. Depending on the condition and age of the
tank, this may be the best time for replacement. Before installing the GEYSER 6000–3.0™, make sure that the
water heater is on a flat surface and properly secured.
SAFETY INFORMATION (PLEASE READ AND FOLLOW THIS
SECTION CAREFULLY TO PREVENT ACCIDENTS OR INJURIES).
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ Heat Pump Water Heater must be installed in accordance with local and national
codes and the instructions in this manual. Before beginning the installation, read the entire manual and
check the local, state, and national building, electrical, and plumbing codes or authorities. Failure to
install according to these instructions and codes may result in property damage, bodily injury, or death.
•An air discharge fan is located on the unit. Extreme caution must be exercised to ensure that any foreign
objects do not enter the fan area.
•Do not stand or sit on unit. Do not allow children to play on or near the unit.
•Disconnect all power before removing cover (note that there is no need to remove the cover except to
adjust the temperature settings).
Internal components may be hot to the touch. Please allow unit to cool completely before touching any
component.
•Disconnect power before installing or servicing the GEYSER 6000–3.0™.
•Ensure that the power receptacle is rated for 115 V. and at least 15 Amp.
•Ensure that the electrical supply has proper overload fuse or breaker protection rated for at least 15
amps. It is suggested to use a dedicated outlet.
•Wear eye protection during the installation.
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ system weighs approximately 70 lbs. All lifting should be done using the handles
on the side of the unit with caution and assistance if available to prevent injury.
•If the pressure relief valve on the existing water heater tank is leaking or dripping, call a licensed
plumber for repair. Do not plug or remove valve as this could result in an explosion.
•Water temperature over 125ºF. (52ºC.) can cause severe burns instantly resulting in severe injury or
death. The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ is shipped at the default setting of 120°F. in accordance with Department
of Energy standards.
•Follow all safety instructions provided by the manufacturer of the existing water heater.
•The Geyser 6000–3.0™ must NOT be installed in location where it is exposed to temperatures of below
40°F. (4.5°C.) or above 120°F. (49°C.).
The Geyser 6000–3.0™ must NOT be connected to an electric water heater with heating elements larger
than 240 volt/5500 watts.

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PLeaSe KeeP THeSe inSTRUCTiOnS FOR ReFeRenCe!
(FOR THe LiFe OF THe UniT)
Please be sure to read and follow all instructions carefully before attempting to install or operate the Geyser 6000–3.0™.
www.northrdt.com

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Contents
SAFETY INFORMATION --------------------------------------------------------------------------2
Please Keep These Instructions For Reference -----------------------------------------------------3
Grounding instructions --------------------------------------------------------------------------5
GEYSER 6000–3.0™ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------6
Technical Specifications --------------------------------------------------------------------------6
Features: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------6
Unit Specifications: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------6
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS -----------------------------------------------------------------------6
INSTALLATION ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------7
SECTION 1–General -------------------------------------------------------------------------------7
SECTION 2–Location -----------------------------------------------------------------------------8
SECTION 3–Plumbing ----------------------------------------------------------------------------8
SECTION 4–Electrical ---------------------------------------------------------------------------13
SECTION 5–Operatio ----------------------------------------------------------------------------16
SECTION 6–Heat Pump Water Heater Maintenance -----------------------------------------18
SECTION 7–Trouble Shooting ------------------------------------------------------------------19
SECTION 8–Warranty --------------------------------------------------------------------------20

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GEYSER 6000–3.0™
Overview
TheGeyser6000–3.0fromNorthRoadTechnologiesisaHeatPumpWaterHeaterthatmakes
useofarenewableenergysource–theheatintheairinyourbasement,garageorutilityroom–to
heatyourwater.Byusingthisrenewableenergysource,yousignicantlyreducetheuseofelectricity,
oil,gas,orpropane,whichmeanslowercosts,feweremissions,smallercarbonfootprint,andasafer
andhealthierenvironmentforyouandyourfamily.Thisisasimplestepthatanyonecantaketohelp
theenvironmentandreduceourdemandsonfossilfuels.
TheGEYSER6000–3.0™HeatPumpWaterHeaterisanenergy-savingappliancethatheatswater
usingheatandmoisturefromthesurroundingair.Itusesmodernrefrigerationtechnologyto
upgradeandtransferthisheattowaterstoredinastandardelectricwaterheatertank.Theelectric
waterheatershouldhaveoperationalthermostatsandelements.Thetankprovideshotwater
storage;theGEYSER6000–3.0thermostatscontroltheGEYSER6000–3.0™operationandthetank
elementsareonlyusedforback-upheating/quickrecovery.
TheGEYSER6000–3.0™cyclesonwhenthethermostatcallsforwaterheating.Ambientaircooling
anddehumidicationareproducedaswaterisheated.Thecoolinganddehumidicatione󱐯ectsare
dependentontheruntimeoftheGEYSER6000–3.0™;themorehotwaterused,themoreruntime,
themorecoolinganddehumidication.
Technical Specifications
Features:
Highly efficient safe and reliable.
Significant energy savings over conventional heating sources.
Fail safe design ensures hot water at all times.
Suitable for nearly any size residential or light commercial water tank.
Engineered for flexible and easy installation.
Virtually maintenance free.
Dehumidifies and cools surrounding air.
5 year limited warranty.
Easy and safe installation, saving time.
Fast recovery and first hour heating.
Vented heat exchanger to meet local and national safety codes.
Unit Specifications:
6,000 BTU/hr (1,750 Watts).
Default tank temperature setting is 120° F. (49° C.) in accordance
with U.S. Department of Energy guidelines.
Adjustable from 90-140° F. (32-60° C.). See General Cycle section in this
manual for instructions on changing the default setting.
12.5 gal/hr (47.3 Liters) recovery @ 120°F. (49° C.) tank
temperature and at (60°F. (15.5° C.) water supply).
62.5 gallon (236.6 Liter) first hour rating*.
Heats water up to 140°F. (60° C.).
115 Volt/60hz.
5-10 Amp draw (suitable for any 110 volt household outlet).
Dimensions: 16” (40.6 cm) width x 15” (34.6 cm) height x 20” (46.2 cm) depth.
Durable coated steel outer shell for years of trouble free service.
QPS/SGS Listed (UL-1995 / CSA C22.2 No. 236). *Based on 50 Gallon Tank
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SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ can only be placed in dry/covered location, in areas where the temp will not fall below 40°F. (4.5°C.). If
using the unit in an attic, garage or basement, the unit can be installed without any additional equipment. However, if your water
heater is in a space with less than 1,500 cubic feet (42.5 cubic meters), consider ordering longer hoses to locate GEYSER 6000–3.0
in a suitable location.
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ connects to a typical household outlet, 115 volt, 15 amp. While the device requires about 12 Amps
momentarily upon power-up, the device draws 5-8 Amps on average during operation. It is recommended that a dedicated 15
amp circuit be used to power the GEYSER 6000-3.0™.
The GEYSER 6000-3.0™ is recommended for tanks 30 gallons (115 Liters) and larger. A drain must be available to accommodate
condensate generated by the GEYSER 6000–3.0™. In high humidity environments, this condensation can amount to as much as 50
pints (24 Liters) per day. The condensate can be routed to a floor drain, a sink, expelled into a plumbing vent pipe or house waste
line, or to the outside or by way of a drain hose included with the GEYSER 6000–3.0™. The drain line discharges via gravity, so it is
important to locate the drain line appropriately.
INSTALLATION
SECTION 1 —GENERAL
Tools required for the installation:
Phillips head screw driver
Flat head screw driver
Pipe wrench
7/8” Hole saw
Safety gloves
Safety glasses
Electrical Tape
Grounding instructions
This heat pump water heater is for use on 115 volts. The cord has a plug as shown at A in Figure below. An
adapter, as shown at C, is available for connecting three-blade grounding-type plugs to two-slot receptacles.
The green grounding lug extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent ground such as a
properly grounded outlet box. The adapter should not be used if a three-slot grounded receptacle is available.
Inside the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ package, you will find the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ water heater unit, plus all fittings, drain
hose, and all required components to ensure a safe operating system. Items specifically not included are: thread seal
tape, 7/8” hole saw, and electrical tape.

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Quantity Item # Description
1 102 4” Brass Nipple
2 103 “T” Connector
2 104 Threaded valves
1 105 Nipple with plastic water in-feed tube
2 106 6’ connection hose
2 107 6’ lengths of Insultube insulation for hoses
1 roll thread seal tape
1 6’ condensate tube
1 Red wire nut
1 large strain relief
2 “UR” connectors
The following installation instructions cover installing the Geyser in conjunction with an
electric water tank. Alternate water tanks (oil, gas, or propane) may require an alternate
installation method and it is recommended that you contact a professional installer who is
capable of performing light plumbing, soldering, pipe cutting, etc. Note that some electric
tank manufacturers (such as Marathon) utilize alternate plumbing on their tanks where the
drain valve and internal piping preclude the standard Geyser installation methods. If your
current tank is a Marathon tank, you may want to consider the services of a professional
installer who is capable of performing light plumbing, soldering, pipe cutting, etc.
102
103
104
106
107
105
Plumbing Connection Kit

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SECTION 2—LOCATION
•The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ can be set on the floor, or on wood or concrete blocks. Care
should be exercised when mounting the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ that vibration and noise are
not transmitted to other areas. Always consider the air discharge direction in selecting a
location; do not allow the discharged air to be deflected off of a nearby surface and recycled
into the GEYSER 6000–3.0™.
•The base of the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ should be installed at a height no higher than the top
of the water heater. Installing the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ higher may cause the water pump to
become air locked, limiting the operation of the unit.
•Piping between the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ and the water tank should be kept as short as
possible and well insulated to minimize heat loss.
•The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ must be weather-sheltered. It must not be installed in corrosive
environments. It must not be located where temperatures surrounding the unit drop below
40°F. (4.5 C.), or go above 120°F. (49°C.).
•To insure adequate air circulation around the GEYSER 6000–3.0™, install in a room with at
least 1500 cubic feet (42 m³) of air space such as a 12 foot by 15 foot room with an 8 foot
ceiling height (3.7 meter by 4.6 meter room with a 2.4 meter ceiling height). If installed in
a smaller enclosure (such as a utility closet), the exhaust air from the unit should be ducted
out of the closet and the door should be louvered. The required minimum total free air flow
area of the louvers or vents is 150 square inches (968 cm²). If the design and free area is
not known, it may be assumed that wood louvers will have 20-25 percent free area, and
metal louvers and grills will have 60-75 percent free area.
SECTION 3—PLUMBING
The Plumbing Connection Kit, (see photo page 7), consists of: Installation requires a simple
condensate disposal drain or other method to remove the condensate. If there is no laundry
or floor drain nearby, other simple options include drilling a 1/2” hole through the band joist
and running the tube to the outdoors at an angle that will allow it to drain and not freeze, or
drilling through the floor if practical. The condensed water is clean. A condensate pump kit is
available from North Road Technologies as an option.
Turn off power at the breaker or remove fuse, and turn off water supply to the tank. Open a
hot water faucet somewhere in the house, (leave this faucet open until you have re-filled the
tank later in this section). If faucets are not available close to the unit, an upstairs faucet
will also work. Drain the tank by connecting a garden hose to the unit, and discharge the
water to a sink or outside. Once the tank is empty, turn the water supply water back on to the
tank, flushing the tank until the water is clean. The opened faucet should remain open during
the flushing process. When the water is clean, any sediment in the tank should be gone, and
then you can proceed.

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Locate drain valve at bottom of tank.
After draining and flushing the tank, turn off all water
supplies to the tank.
Make sure there is no water left in the tank, and remove
the drain valve. Set drain valve aside for use in a later
step.
Once the drain valve is removed, apply thread seal tape
to both ends of the 2” brass nipple, (item 102 (the one
without the plastic tube), and install one end into the
water tank where the drain valve was. This nipple has
a temperature sensor attached to it. The nipple should
be inserted into the tank with the temperature sensor
closest to the tank side. Tighten with a pipe wrench
several turns making sure there is a tight fit, but be
careful not to over-tighten.
[Note that the tank flushing process is intended to remove all sediment from inside the tank.
Sediment may be so severe that simple removal is not possible. Severe sediment accumulation
will reduce the life expectancy of the tank, even without the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ installation.
Sediment is mainly minerals that have precipitated out of the water as happens when water
boils on the heating elements. The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ will reduce this build-up in the future,
because the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ will do most of the heating instead of the elements boiling the
water. This sediment is very difficult to completely remove, and could plug up the GEYSER 6000–
3.0™ condenser coil.]

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Next, insert one of the two brass “T” fittings, (item 103) onto the
exposed end of the nipple, and tighten snugly. Leave the open “T”
approximately in the vertical position.
After the nipple, (Item 102) is properly
installed on the tank, make a connection
between the thermistor leads and the GEYSER
leads. Insert one of the thermistor leads and
one of the Geyser leads into the connector, as
shown on the photo. Insert one wire from each
of the two temperature sensor cables into one
end of the red “UR” connectors found in the
installation kit. The ends should already have
been split apart approximately 1” (2.5cm).
The wire insulation does not need to be
stripped, the “UR” connector will connect
through the insulation.
Squeeze the “UR” connector with a pair of pliers, or
tap gently with a hammer. Do not use unneccessary
force when squeezing the red “UR” connector. The red
“button” on the connector will be pressed in until it
is even with the top of the connector.
Repeat this step with the remaining two leads.
The finished version will have the thermistor
connected to the nipple and then to the
Geyser. This will allow the Geyser to sense
the tank temperature and operate properly.
Now, follow these steps to connect the temperature sensor to the 4” brass water tank connector (nipple) cables.

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Install the discharge valve removed from the
tank earlier onto the exposed end of the fittings.
Next, apply thread seal tape to, and install a valve, (item 104),
onto the “T” fitting closest to the tank, making sure it is tight.
Then apply thread seal tape to both ends of the
brass fitting with the plastic water in-feed tube
(Item 105), and insert/screw the fitting into the
front end of the ‘‘T”, and tighten snugly. Make sure
plastic slides in freely, without obstructions in the
tank. On some electric tanks (such as Marathon)
there will be obstructions within the tank due to
the configuration of the piping within the tank. If
the plastic in-feed tube does not enter the tank
freely, please stop, and consult with a professional
installer.
Now, insert the second brass “T” fitting,
(item 103), onto the exposed end of
the pipe, again leaving the “T” in the
approximate vertical position.

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Next, you will connect the supplied hoses, (item 106), from
the Geyser to the valves that were just installed on the tank.
The valve closest to the tank is connected to the fitting on the
lower right hand corner of the Geyser, marked “water in”. The
valve furthest from the tank is connected to the fitting on the
upper left hand corner of the Geyser, marked “water out”. Make
sure the hoses are connected properly, in this fashion!
Install ½” foam insulation, (item 107) on all connection hoses.
This is important for the overall efficiency of the unit.
Once all hoses are connected, and the hoses are properly insulated, the
plumbing portion of the installation is done.
Now, completely open the valve closest to the tank and check for leaks. Then slightly
loosen the hose connection at the valve furthest from the tank to allow air to breathe. You
may possibly hear some air evacuate and/or have a few drops of water emerge from the
connection. Once done, retighten hose connection, and open the valve completely.
Now, apply thread seal tape to, and install the second valve, (item 104), onto
the second “T” fitting.
Make sure that all valves are closed tightly, and open the tank fill valve.
Check for any leaks in the piping and fittings you have just installed.
Re-tighten any assembly as needed. Once it is confirmed that there are
no leaks, fill the tank completely. Once water comes out the open faucet
(opened in the first step), close the faucet.

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A 7/8” hole must be drilled into the hand-hole
cover, near the center of the cover. Extreme caution
must be used for safety reasons and to maintain the
integrity of the cover during the drilling process. One
example of the how to complete the drilling process
successfully is to connect the cover to a scrap block
of wood as shown. If the scrap wood method is not
used, then the cover could spin and the sharp edges
of the cover can cause bodily injury.
Using a 7/8” hole saw, drill a hole near the
center of the cover.
Remove the hand-hole cover from the water tank. These may be
held in place with screws, or there may be a press fit depending
on the make and model of your water heater. The photo indicates
an oval shape cover, but these can sometimes be square, round,
etc. depending on the make and model of your tank.
SECTION 4—ELECTRICAL
The Electrical Connection Kit consists of:
(1) wire nut
(1) cord/strain relief mechanism, attached to Geyser
BeSure ThaT Power ToThe Tank and The GeySer ISComPleTely Turned off aTThe fuSe orCIrCuIT Breaker
Box Before BeGInnInG any ofThe eleCTrICal work onThe Tank.

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Find the electrical cord unit that is pre-assembled with the
strain-relief mechanism on the exposed end.
Insert the cord through the hole just drilled
in the cover.
Screw the retaining ring onto the back side of the cover,
hand tight. This will hold the cord in place on the cover.
The Geyser has two leads exposed in the electrical cord. One will be a bare lead, and one
will have a terminal connector on it. Locate the bottom heating element inside the tank.
All electric tanks have a bottom heating element that will have 2 wires connected on to the
terminals. Note that some tanks have limit switches or other temperature controls connected
– make sure you go right to the element. Remove either of the two leads (note that some
tanks have terminal connectors on one or both of these leads – if possible, remove the
lead that does not have the terminal connector). Ultimately, it will not matter which of the
two leads is removed from the heating element. If both leads from the heating element
have connectors, snip off one of the connectors and strip back the insulation off that lead
approximately ½”.

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Wire tie the bare lead from the Geyser to the
lead just removed from the tank, using the
wire nut that comes with the Geyser. Electrical
tape must be used to seal this connection. Take
the second wire from the Geyser (the one with
the terminal connector) and connect it to the
terminal where you just removed the lead from
the tank.
Reconnect the hand-hole cover to the tank.
Plug the Geyser 6000–3.0™ into a
dedicated (preferred) 115 volt wall
socket, and re-energize all circuit
breakers or fuses, supplying power to
both the Geyser unit and the water
heater tank.
Install the condensate pump and drain tubing if required. Plan the pump location
with the 6 foot connector cord length in mind.

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SECTION 5 -OPERATION
General Cycle
Most electric water tanks utilize two heating elements, one at the top of the tank and
one at the bottom of the tank. The heating element at the top of the tank is called a
“quick recovery” element, because it is designed to heat water at the top of the tank if the
temperature at the top of the tank falls below its set point. The heating element at the
bottom of the tank actually provides most of the heating of the water. With an electric
water heater, after the water in the top third of the tank is hot, the lower heating element
will heat the water in the bottom two thirds of the tank. The cold water that enters the tank
to replace the hot water being used enters at the bottom so that it will not cool the hot
water near the top exit. Hot water rises to the top of the tank, and cold water falls to the
bottom. The bottom thermostat brings the lower element on after a few gallons of hot water
are used.
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ replaces the lower element in operation. Instead of the lower
element providing most of the hot water, the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ provides it. When the
GEYSER 6000
3.0 thermostat calls for heat, the electrical circuit is closed and the air fan, water
circulating pump, and compressor in the GEYSER 6000–3.0 start. The compressor causes
a differential pressure between the evaporator and the condenser. In the evaporator, the
refrigerant evaporates and cools, drawing heat from the air being forced through its fins. In
the condenser, refrigerant vapor is condensed, giving off heat to the water being circulated
from the storage tank.
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ will remove moisture from the air. It is an effective dehumidifier,
and, depending on run time, may provide all necessary dehumidification. However, it will
only dehumidify while it is running. As more hot water is used, more dehumidification is
provided.
An alternative plumbing connection
that would work is to put a “T” in the
cold water supply to the water heater,
and connect the branch of the “T” to
the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ outlet. Connect
the GEYSER 6000–3.0™ outlet to a “T”
at the drain. This would allow the cold
water from the bottom of the tank to
be pulled up the dip tube, from a point
above the sediment. This alternative
connecting system is required for some
hot water heaters such as Marathon®
brand, that have an internal elbow in
the drain. Note:keep the nipple with the
thermostat connected at the tank.

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Temperature Setting: The default setting for the thermostat/temperature setting is 120°F.
(49°C.), in accordance with the Department of Energy Guidelines. Please note that the GEYSER
6000-3.0 will heat the water up to 140° F (60° C), and this setting can be changed internally.
The lever to adjust the temperature setting is located inside the electric box within the
Geyser. To access it, first disconnect the power at the fuse or breaker box. Then remove the
rubber mounts on the bottom of the GEYSER and gently pull the sides away at the bottom
and lift the cover off. The electric box is in the top of the unit, and within the electric box
is an electronic circuit board. At one end of the board is a slide thermostat with temperature
markings. Move the slide to the desired position you want to maintain in the tank, and
replace the cover to the unit.
Check for illuminated lights on Geyser unit:
• If unit is on standby (Geyser is on, but not called to heat water): Green solid light.
• If unit is on and calling for heat (compressor working/heat to tank): Green flashing light.
• If the unit is in defrost mode: Red led flashes once every five seconds.
• If the unit is in over current mode: Red led flashes twice every five seconds. Note – unplug
the unit and ensure all wiring is connected properly. If yes, then call for service.
• If the thermistor is disconnected/broken for water temperature detection: Flash red led 3
times. If this condition persists, call for service.
• If thermistor is disconnected/broken for defrost temperature detection: Flash red led 4
times. If this condition persists, call for service.

–18–
SECTION 6–HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER MAINTENANCE
WARNING
BEFORE SERVICING THE EXISTING GEYSER OR THE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER, UNPLUG THE UNIT(S),
TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER OR REMOVE THE FUSES SUPPLYING POWER TO THE WATER HEATER.
FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR DEATH.
GEYSER Internal Wiring Diagram
The GEYSER 6000–3.0™ from North Road Technologies requires very little in the way of
maintenance to ensure a long and trouble free life for your unit.
AIR FILTER—The air filter should be cleaned whenever visibly dirty. The air filter is another
benefit provided by the GEYSER 6000–3.0. It cleans the air at no additional cost. It is a
critically important component of the GEYSER 6000–3.0 and will significantly reduce the
heating capacity and efficiency when dirty. The filter can be cleaned by gently hand-washing
in water. Remove and replace with care. Replacement air filters can be purchased through
North Road Technologies at www.northrdt.com.
EVAPORATOR—The evaporator underneath the filter becomes clogged or dirty, it may be
cleaned either by vacuuming or with a commercial evaporator cleaning spray. DO NOT use
a solvent containing bleach, acetone, or flammable substances. TURN THE UNIT OFF AT THE
FUSE OR BREAKER BOX BEFORE CLEANING.
DRAIN AND FLUSH—Drain five gallons of water from the tank every six months. Connect a
garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, and put the other end of the hose
where you want the drained water to go. Close the stop valve that is right next to the drain
valve, and open the drain valve. This will drain some water from the tank and back-flush the
Heat Pump Water Heater. After five gallons have been drained, close the drain valve, open the
stop valve and remove the hose. This practice will extend the life of both the GEYSER 6000–
3.0 and the storage tank.
Stop GEYSER 6000–3.0™ by pressing the selector switch rocker to OFF. This will allow the
resistance elements in the tank to heat the water until the GEYSER 6000–3.0 is repaired. Press
the selector switch rocker to off and call for service.

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SECTION 7—TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Problem Possible Cause and Solution
No hot water flow at tap. Valve on old water pipe supplying water tank should be open,
faucet aerator or restrictor may be plugged with sediment.
High Pressure Limit switch 1. Repeat system purge operation
opens repeatedly 2. Unit plumbed incorrectly, cold water on bottom of feed tank
connected to HPWH outlet
3. Defective circulating pump
4. Tank thermostat set too high
5. Defective tank thermostat
6. Inadequate water flow due to plugged water lines
Water on floor around the tank 1. Check plumbing joints and fittings for leaks
2. Make sue HPWH is level
3. Check condensate drain line for obstruction
4. Inspect drip pan for obstruction
5. If leak continues after unit is turned off, there is an internal leak
requiring service
6. The leak may be from the water storage tank
Heat pump trips a house 1. Circuit does not have adequate circuit breaker capacity
circuit breaker 2. There is a short, or loose connection in field wiring
3. There is a short or loose connection in HPWH wiring
4. Check to be sure that dual resistance elements are not wired for
simultaneous operation. Total wattage must not exceed
5500 watts
Water is not being heated 1. Check tank top thermostat. A setting of 125º F. at the
thermostat should sufficiently allow for 120º F. at the tap
2. A mixing/tempering valve in the house plumbing could be
mixing cold water with the hot. Close the HPWH cold water
inlet valve, and open a hot water faucet in the house. No
water should come out of the faucet. If it does, cold water is
coming from the mixing valve
Water is too hot 1. Check the tank top thermostat and limit switch
2. Check the tank lower thermostat and limit switch
3. Check the HPWH for proper response to the thermostat
Water is not being heated 1. Check to make sure unit is plugged in, turned on, and the circuit
at all breaker/fuse is not tripped
2. Check the tank top heating element, limit switch, and thermostat
Hot water runs out, 1. Tank thermostats are set too low or are defective
(HPWH continues to run) 2. Dip tube in tank is broken
3. More than appropriate water use for the tank size
4. The air filter or coil fins are clogged or dirty
5. The unit remains in defrost mode

–20–
Hot water runs out, HPWH does not run) Defective HPWH component, refer to schematic to
troubleshoot
Heavy accumulation of frost on the unit The defrost thermostat or system control relay unit,
extending through the air filter could be defective
Heat pump is noisy (more than 60 dB) 1. Check for loose fasteners
2. Check for vibrating fan guard
3. The noise may be normal, but unfamiliar to the user,
short 10” insulated flexible duct connected to the
fan outlet with a 90º bend will reduce noise
considerably
4. The HPWH is not intended to be installed in living
quarters, unless it is understood that some
additional noise will be heard
SECTION 8 -WARRANTY
LIMITED WARRANTY TO ORIGINAL PURCHASER
The Geyser 6000–3.0™, supplied by North Road Technologies, L.L.C. (NRT) and delivered new, in the original
packaging to the original end‐user, is warranted by NRT as follows:
One (1) year warranty from defects in workmanship and materials.
Five (5) years limited warranty on the sealed refrigeration system only.
This limited warranty begins on the original date of purchase or 180 days from the date the unit was manufactured,
whichever comes first. The warranty is valid only on products purchased and used in the United States and
Canada. To receive warranty service, the purchaser must contact NRT for problem determination and service
procedures. The original dated bill of sale must be presented upon request as proof of Purchase. Within these
periods, a new or remanufactured replacement part, at NRT’s sole discretion, will be supplied by NRT, providing
the defective part is first returned, at customer’s expense, to NRT for inspection. Optionally, the entire Geyser
6000–3.0™ may be returned at customer’s expense to NRT for repair. Repair work done at NRT‘s facility will be
at no charge providing the repair is required because of a defect in workmanship or materials. The replacement
part or parts assume the unused portion of the warranty. The warranty does not include labor or other costs
incurred for diagnosis, repairing (except in NRT‘s facility as above) or removing, installing or shipping the
defective or replacement parts.
The limited warranty covers manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship encountered in normal use of
this product and shall not apply to the following, including but not limited to: consumable items such as filters;
damage which occurs in shipment, delivery and installation; applications and uses for which the product was
not intended; altered product or serial numbers; cosmetic damage or exterior finish; damage from accidents,
abuse, neglect, fire, water, lightning, or other acts of nature; external plumbing or leaks; external wiring;
circuit breakers, fuses, connectors or hoses not supplied and authorized by NRT; use of products, equipment,
systems, utilities, services, parts, supplies, accessories, applications, installations, repairs not supplied or
authorized by NRT, and failure to follow operating instructions.
NRT MAKES NO WARRANTY AS TO THE FITNESS OF THE EQUIPMENT FOR A PARTICULAR USE AND SHALL NOT BE
LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES IN CONJUNCTION WITH THIS CONTRACT AND/OR
THE USE OF THE EQUIPMENT. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential
damages, so the above exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you
may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. BUYER AGREES TO INDEMNIFY AND SAVE HARMLESS
NRT FROM ANY CLAIMS OR DEMANDS AGAINST NRT FOR INJURIES OR DAMAGES TO THIRD PARTIES RESULTING
FROM BUYER’S INSTALLATION, USE OR OWNERSHIP OF THE EQUIPMENT.