Outdoor living today Santa rosa User manual

8x12 Santa Rosa
Assembly Manual
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden
Shed from Outdoor Living Today.
Please take the time to
identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation and normal residential
use, on level ground. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
Cabana and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
Version #10
Revised June 17, 2009
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today
Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your
purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be
provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.

Parts List:
A. Floor Section
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames
3 - 45 1/2” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames
2 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Plywood Floor - Large
2 - 45 1/2” x 21” - Plywood Floor - Small
6 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Floor Joists
17 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 45” - Deck Boards for Porch
10 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68” - Floor Runners
1 - 31 3/4” long and angle cut. (Threshold for Floor and Deck )
B. Wall Section
4 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Wall Panels - Bottom Wall Plates Unattached
4 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Plates
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Porch Wall Panel
3 - Functional Window Inserts
Door, Door Jambs & Header
1 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 73” - Door Jamb
1 - 2” x 3” x 45 1/2” - Door Header
1 - 31 1/2” x 42” - Bottom Door
1 - 31 1/2” x 30” - Top Door
2 - 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 72” - Interior Vertical Door Stops (approx.)
1 - 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 36” - Interior Top Horizontal Door Stop (approx.)
Gable Walls
2 - Rear Gable Walls - Triangular Shaped with Designer Shingles
2 - Middle Gable Walls- Triangular Shaped with Siding flush to frame
1 - Front Triangular Gusset Gable - Designer Shingles
Top Wall Plates
3 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Rear Top Plates -
(2 pieces Angle cut on end, 1 piece straight cut both ends)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 72” & 19” Front Top Plate - Straight cut on ends.
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” Side Top Plate - Angle cut on length - 66 3/4”
C & D. Rafter and Roof Section
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Rafters (angle cut)
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Ridge Boards
2 - 1/16” x 3” x 7” - Metal Ridge Board Connectors
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits (Both Sides)
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets - (angle cut on ends)
Roof Panels
4 - Outside Rear Roof Panels (Shingles overhanging roof battens on
1 end)
2 - Middle Roof Panel (Shingles flush with roof battens)
Porch Section
2 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 74” Long Porch Posts
1 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” (short ) Deck Post
3 - Hand Rail Sections
2 - 3/4” x3 1/2” x45” - Top Plate Front Extension
2 - 1” x 4 1/2” x 74” - Front Wall Trim/Supports (one with 2 1/2”w
Filler Strip Attached to back. One with 4 1/2” Filler Strip Attached to
back).
4 - Corner Brackets
12 - Post Base Trims - 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 4”
2 - 1/8”x 45” x 48” - Porch Ceiling Veneer
E. Miscellaneous Section
Ridge Caps
20 - Cedar Roof Ridge Caps - Includes 2 Undercourse Caps-
(Undercourse are lower grade Caps that will be covered)
Bottom Skirting
2 - 1/2” x4 1/2” x 48 1/2” - Front Bottom Skirting
8 - 1/2” x4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Side and Rear Bottom Skirting
Corner & Sidewall Trim
6 - 1/2”x 2 1/2” x 79” - Narrow Trim
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Ream Seam Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Rear Filler Trim
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 82” - Rear Wide Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 44” - Horizontal Trim above Door
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Porch Trim
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Door Trim
Facia Trim
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 58” - Back Facia- Angle cut on ends
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72 1/4” - Side Facia
2- Front Gusset Facia (shingles)
Filler Shingles (6” wide)
12 pcs - Long
4 pcs - Short
2 pcs - Rear Gable Walls 1-16” long / 1 - 7 1/2” long
Misc. Pieces
3- Flower Boxes
3 - Facia / Trim Detail Plates
1 - Pentagon Detail Plate
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding
2 pcs - Spare Shingles- use to shim door, etc
Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
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Page 2

8x12 SANTA ROSA HARDWARE SHEET
2 1/2”
Note: screws and nails shown actual size.
2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/4”
1 1/4”
Tee Hinge x4 Pull Handle Ridge Board
Connector x 2
Black
Silver
Black
Finishing
Shingle
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bits
Simpson Strong Tie
8x90 degree, 14xangled
Black Barrel
Bolt
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Page 3
Silver Barrel Bolt
Deck
2 1/4”

Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor Runners (10)
Plywood Floor
Small (2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note, Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)
5 1/2” Wide Deck
Boards (17)
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as illustrated above. Position Joists
equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine joist position.
Position Joist so flush with framing.
Flush
with
framing
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
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Page 4
A. Floor Section
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with
the Hardware Kit
Bag.

7.Attach Floor Runners to completed floor
frame. There are 2 floor runners per 136 1/2” side
and 5 completed runners in total. Use 6 - 2.5”
screws per Runner.
96”
5. Complete all large and small frame attachments. Screw
each completed section together with 8 - 2.5” screws.
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
136 1/2”
8. Make sure Runners are flush with outside and
front and rear floor framing but not overhanging.
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as
illustrated at left. There are 3 larger and
3 smaller Frame Sections. The Footprint
for the floor when attached together will
be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
4.Attach each large and small floor joist frames
together with 6 - 2.5” screws per section.
Front of Shed
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Page 5
Material used for Floor
Runners are not graded
for appearance. Some
defect is allowed.

back from outside edge of Floor Joist Framing.
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of
floor joists to
determine screw
placement.
11. Attach 17 pieces of
1” x 5 1/2” x 45” Deck Boards
using 8 - 2 1/4” deck nails per
piece. Attach both outside pieces
first and equally space all others on
the floor before attaching.
Completed Floor
Important -
Make sure floor is level before moving
on to wall section. Use a level to confirm
and shim floor joists as required.
Front
10. When in correct position, attach with 1 1/4”
screws. Use screws every 16”. The Plywood is
cut slightly smaller than floor framing.
Keep plywood seams tight.
Lay all Deck Boards
down evenly spaced
prior to attaching.
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Page 6
Front
plywood
pushed together
at seam.

Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all
parts prior to starting.
12. Lay out all the wall panels
and become familiar with their
location.
On Standard Kits, there are 3
Window Wall Panels, 4Solid
Wall Panels, 1 Narrow Wall
Panel and Dutch Door (top
and bottom sections).
Make sure to position panels
right side up so water is
directed away from and not into
shed. Look at window wall
panels to determine proper wall
position to confirm.
Window Wall
Panel (3)
Solid Wall
Panel (4)
Door Header
Middle Gable Walls (2)
Side Top
Plates (4)
Angle cut on edge
Rear Top
Plates (3)
Rear Gable
Walls (2)
Front Wall Trim/Supports
with 2 1/2”w Filler Strip (2)
Left & Right Side Config.
Handrail Section (2)
Long Porch
Posts (2)
Top Plate Front
Extension (2)
Corner
Bracket (4)
Top & Bottom
Door
Dutch Door
Narrow Wall
Panel (12” wide)
Window
Insert (3)
Bottom
Wall
Plate
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Page 7
B. Wall Section

15. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Wall Panel on
top of plywood floor. Depending on your preference, you
may use a solid or window wall panel in this position. If
using a solid wall, make sure panel is facing up.
Important:
Make sure all walls are aligned in their upright
position. If not ,water may leak into your playhouse.
Unsure if panel is facing up or down? check siding
on window wall panel to match alignment.
16.The side wall panels will sit flush at the end of the plywood floor with the front and rear panels
sandwiching between them. Note: Siding will overhang the floor by approx. 1/2”
Outside 2x3 Plate of wall panel is flush with
outside of plywood when properly aligned.
Side Wall Panel
14. Locate Window Inserts. Place Window Insert into wall opening tight to wall siding. On the
inside, shim Window Insert evenly in cavity. Kits include one additional shingle for shimming of the
window. When properly positioned, secure Window Insert to wall framing cavity with 4 - 2” screws.
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Page 8
Wall Plate
13. Starting with All Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down. Position and attach Bottom
Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so Wall Plates
are flush with framing.
Note,
You may prefer to
install Windows in
the Miscellaneous
Section at the end
of assembly.

17. Position rear corner wall into place and attach together with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Screw at the top, middle and bottom of 2x3 stud.Start positioning and securing wall panels on your floor.
18. Be sure to correctly position wall panels so siding overhangs your floor and wall framing is flush
with floor framing. Continue to attach walls together as per Step 17.
19. When attaching front corner wall panel, make sure panel is nested inside the side panel. Line
wall framing and secure at top, middle and bottom of wall studs.
Rear Wall Panel
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Page 9
Rear Wall Panel
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 22.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
at seam.
Caulking not includ-
ed in kit.
Caulking

20. To complete walls, attach the Narrow
Porch Wall to front wall panel. Note, the
narrow wall is only 73” high. Attach wall stud
to adjoining wall with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
21.Attach Door Jamb to right side wall stud. When
positioned correctly, the Jamb will overhang the right side
wall panel framing by 1/2”. When in correct position,
secure to wall stud with 4 - 2 1/2” screws.
Align Door Header on top of Narrow wall framing and on
top of Door Jamb. See picture below. Secure with
4 - 2 1/2” screws to secure.
narrow wall
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Page 10
1/2” overhang Door Header
positioned with
Dado to front
and top.
Door Jamb- 1 1/2” x 3” x 73”

22. When all walls are attached
together, check alignment with the
floor. Bottom wall plates should sit
flush with outside of plywood floor.
When positioned correctly,fasten
bottom wall plates to floor using
4 -2 1/2” screws per wall panel.
Wall Plate
23. Position angle cut Rear Top Plates
on top of wall studs so they are flush on
the inside with 2x3 wall stud. The Top
Plate is comprised of 3 pieces (2 outside
pieces with an angle cut on one end and
a center piece that is straight cut). Attach
by screwing down into top wall plate with
4 -2” screws.
Angle cut on ends.
Top Plates should be flush
with inside of wall framing.
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Page 11
32” wide
Confirm 32” Wide Door Opening at Bottom
Optional - Caulking
seams will help
prevent moisture from
entering at seam.
Caulking not
included in kit.
Caulking
Floor
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.

25. Position the Front
Top Plates on top of Door
Header and front wall
panel. There are 2 plates
(72” and 19” long). Front
top plates are straight cut
on the ends. Once again,
the plate will be flush with
inside of top wall framing.
Attach with 6 - 2” screws
in each plate. (4 screws
in long and 2 in short
plate).
24. Next, attach the 4 Side Top Plates (2 per side). The
side top plates are angle cut down the length. Once
again, position top plate on wall plate so it is flush with
inside of wall plate. Side plate should also be flush with
rear wall plate. Secure with 4 - 2” screws per piece.
26. Complete all side
top plate attachments as
described above.
Flush
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Page 12
Caution:
Prior to completing Step
29, side top plates will be
protruding out from the
shed, please use
caution in the work area.

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Page 13
27.To complete the Porch Rail Section, the porch
sections must be assembled on level ground first.
There are 2 sections.
A . Attach 1x4 Top Plate Front Extension (34 1/2”L)
to 4x4 Porch Post with 2 - 1 1/2” screws. Make sure
support is flush with post.
B. Attach 1x4 1/2” Wall Trim/ Supports to Front
Extension using 2 - 1 1/2” screws. Make sure Front
Extension is Flush to back of wall trim and centered
1/2” on each side. Note: there are 2 different wall
supports for left & right.
C. Attach both Corner Brackets with 3 - 1 1/2” screws
from Front Extensions into Brackets. Attach Brackets to
Porch posts. Drill Pilot hole in bracket first.
D. Attach Hand Rail to complete your Porch Rail
Section. Handrail should start 4” from
bottom of Post and be centered on Post. On Wall trim
side, handrail should sit approx. 1” in from outside of
Wall trim. Use 3 - 1 1/2” screws to attach.
Top Plate Front Extension
A.
B.
C.
Handrail
equally
spaced on on
Wall Trim
Support and
Porch Post.
Attach with 3
1 1/2 screws.
Hand
Rail
D.
Front Porch
Wall Trim
Supports with
Filler Strip
attached.
Door and
Window Side
configurations
are unique.
Hand Rail
Section
4x4
Porch
Post
Exploded
View of
Porch Rail
Section
Corner
Bracket
Bracket centered
on post
Window Side
2 1/2” Filler
Strip on rear of
Wall Trim
Support.
4x4
Porch
Post
4”
3 - 1 1/2”
screws
3- 1 1/2” screws
Door Way Side
4 1/2” Filler Strip
on rear of Wall
Trim Support.
4 1/2”
2 1/2”
Plate Centered
on 4 1/2” trim. 2- 1 1/2”
screws
Front
2- 1 1/2”
screws
Important:
Drill Pilot
Holes to
prevent wood
from splitting!
Porch
Post
2- 1 1/2”
screws
Rear View

28. When both porch sections are
completed, lift Right Side Section
into place on deck beneath the side
top plate. (Make sure to use the
correct right/left side
configuration.)
Attach Wall Trim/ Support to wall
with 3- 2 1/2” screws. Try to
conceal screws if possible. Screw
Side Top Plate into Front Extension
of Porch section with 3 - 1 1/4”
screws. Screw into corner brackets
and post to conceal screws.
29.Align Porch Post so flush
with outside of decking. Secure
post to deck by toe-nailing with
3 -2 1/2” screws.
Note, drill pilot holes to prevent
post from splitting.
30. Complete Left Side Porch
Section as per Step 28 & 29.
31. Locate the Bottom and Top Sections of the Dutch Door. The Bottom Section is larger than the Top
Section. Attach 2 Hinges to each section. Center Hinges should be positioned to overhand trim edge by 1/4”
to prevent hinges from contacting each other. Use 2” & 3/4” black screws on hinge / door attachment as
shown above. Be careful not to strip screws when tightening. Position the Bottom Door in place. Use a 1/4”
high spacer for the bottom and 3/8” on the left and 1/8” on the right. When in correct position, attach hinges
to Wall Trim / Supports with 3 - 2” Black screws. (use only 1 Black 2” screw until door has been corrrectly
aligned, then complete remaining 2 screws)
1/4” gap
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Page 14
3/4” screw
2“ Screws
Important: Hinge not
exactly as shown.
Both Hinges
overhang
trims 1/4”
4 1/2” Filler Strip
Doorway side.
Post Flush with
Decking on side
1/4 to 1/2” recessed
in front.
Inside Edge
of Trim
Top Door
Bottom Door
Inside Door

32.Align Top Door and space as per Bottom Door
on sides. Leave a 1/4” gap between the Bottom and
Top Door. When in correct position, secure hinges to
Wall Trim/ Support as per previous step.
1/4” gap
33. Locate both Rear Gable Wall pieces. Rear Gables have shingles that overhang the top
and bottom of the gable frame. Screw together with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
34. From the outside, slide in a Rear Gable Wall
Filler Shingle to cover gable seam. Nail down above
the exposure line with 2 - 1 1/2” shingle nails.
Filler
Shingles
35. Complete by attaching top precut Filler
Shingle with 2 shingle nails.
36. Lift up the rear completed gable section
and place on top of rear walls.
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Page 15
See Step 65 for
explanation of
what is an
exposure line.

37. Position the Rear Gable Wall on top of the
Rear Top Plate.
The rear gable framing should sit flush with the inside
of the top plate. It should also be centered sideways
on the top plate.
Hint: use a square to check the angle of the gable
framing and top plate. Both angles should line up.
Adjust gable accordingly. Temporarily attach to walls
and Top Plate with 2 - 2” screws. Gables may need
slight adjustment in Step 51. Complete attachment in
Step 51 and additional 6 - 2” screws. Screw from the
bottom of gable framing down into Top Plate and
Wall.
39. Position the Middle Gable Wall on top of
front top plate. Middle gable has cedar siding on
the front that is cut flush with gable framing. Once
again, the framing of the gable should be flush with
outside of plate and be centered sideways on the
plate.
When in correct position, attach with 2 -2”
temporary screws as per Step 37. Later
in Step 51, complete attachment after
Gables are correctly aligned with 6 more
2” screws.
38. Locate both Middle Gable Walls and attach together as per Step 33.
Siding is
flush with
framing
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Page 16
Gable Notch

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Page 17
Outside
Roof
Panels (2)
Middle Roof
Panels
(2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting. (Roof Filler Shingles Missing)
Outside
Roof
Panels (2)
Roof
Rafters
(9 per
side)
18 Tot.
Ridge Boards
(4) 84” and
52 1/2”long
Soffits (4)
1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4”
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
40. Locate (1 each) 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” & 52 1/2” Ridge Boards and attach together with Metal
Ridge Board Connector using 8 - 3/4” silver screws. Total Length when connected is 136 1/2”.
Complete two Sets. Position Metal Ridge Board Connector evenly on Ridge Boards.
Metal Ridge
Board
Connectors (2)
8 - 3/4” Screws
Roof Gussets
(2)
C. & D. Rafter and Roof Section

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Page 18
43. Attach end of a 68 1/4” long Soffit Board flush to ends of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Drill pilot hole in
Soffit ends to prevent splitting. Complete both outside rafter / Soffit
connections first. Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated
above. When positioned correctly, attach Soffits to remaining rafters
with 2 -1 1/4” screws /rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd Rafter section now
as per Steps 41 - 43 with the following exception.
When attaching Ridge Board to Rafter ends, make sure Metal
Ridge Board Connector is positioned so offset to first Rafter
Section. See Step 50 for illustration.
42. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both
outside rafters with 2 - 2” screws per end. Measure and position
interior Rafters as illustrated below. When positioned correctly,
attach Ridge Board to remaining rafters with 2 -2” screws /rafter
end.
41. Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and completed
Ridge Board. Lay out on level ground as shown
to the right. Double up Rafters as illustrated.
Screw doubled up Rafters together with
3 - 2 1/2” screws per piece.
Note, completed rafter section will be flipped
over in Step 44.
Ridge Board
Soffits
Double up
Rafters
Rafter
Soffit
68.25”
45.5”
20.5”
20.5”
20.5”
45.5”
45.5”
136.5”
Connector
Plate to
inside
2 1/2” Screws
into Doubled
up Rafters
2 1/2” Screws
into Doubled
up Rafters
Flip Rafter
Sections over
when complete
Important:
Pilot Hole
Ridge Board
to prevent
splitting!
Important:
Pilot Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!

44. Carefully lift 1 completed
Rafter Section up. (make sure
Soffit is facing down) and place
on gable framing.
46. To confirm Rafter Section alignment, in the front, Rafter will overhang Porch post by
approximately 1/2”. Rafter will also overhang the siding of Middle Gable Wall.
45. Slide Rafter Section up on gable framing until bottom of
Ridge Board slips into gable notch. Soffit will sit approximately
1/8” away from wall panel.
Soffit should sit approx. 1/8” away
from wall panel. End Rafter will sit
flush with end of wall.
Soffit
In Porch area, a
larger gap will occur
between Soffit and
Top Plate.
Rafter will
overhang
Porch Post.
Gable Notch
Ridge Board
Rafter
Rafter Flush with end of wall
Rafter will slightly
overhang siding of
Middle Gable Wall.
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Page 19

47. When Rafter Section is aligned correctly, tack Rafter Section temporarily down from Middle Gable
Wall framing into Rafter with 2 - 2” screws.
Gable Notch
Ridge Board
48. Place 2nd completed Rafter Section on gable wall framing. Position as per Steps 45 & 47.
49. When both Rafters Section are correctly aligned, Ridge Boards will sit in both the rear and
middle gable notches. Front Rafters will overhang Porch Posts.
Rear Gable
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Note, Metal Ridge Board is
offset with 1st Rafter Section