Raspberry Pi PICADE 3D User manual

Table of Contents
1.BOM
2.Preflight Check
3.Preparations
4.Assembly
5.Optional Features
6.Software

1 BOM –Bill of Material
Electronics:
1x Raspberry Pi (3B+/4B 4GB)
1x MicroSD Card (at least 64GB)
1x USB-C/Micro-USB PowerSupply (Official Raspberry Pi recommended)
1x Official Raspberry Pi 7" Touch
1x Picade X Hat (Pimoroni) or DIY
1x Arcade Parts Kit (Pimoroni)
or 1x Retro Joystick + 10X Arcade Buttons (2xBlue/2xYellow/2xRed/4xBlack)
1x Set of Cables (eq Pimoroni Wiring Loom) or DIY
1x On/Off Button (with or without integrated LED)
1x 3" Speaker 4Ω (5W)
1x 30x30x10 Fan 5V
1x Raspberry Pi Camera Cable –30cm (for the Display)
Optional Parts:
1x Micro-HDMI to HDMI Cable (For External Display)
x Bluetooth Gamepads (8BitDo tested)

Some Bolts,Nuts and Stuff:
28x M3 Threaded Inserts (M3x5/M3x6)
36x M3 Allen Bolts SocketCap (M3x6/M3x8)
4x M3 Allen Bolts SocketCap (M3x20)
12x M3 Washers
8x M3 Nuts
4x RubberFeet
Fancy Lights:
LED-Strip or Neopixel Bars to Put behind the FrameBar for Cool Effects
Filament:
1-1,5 Kg for the Complete Build (depends on Print Settings)
Recommended Print Settings:
0.2mm Layer Height
20% –30% Infill
2 Perimeter or more
Supports needed for some Parts
PLA Filament works fine

2 Preflight Check
Before you begin, please check of all Parts and Tools needed are in Front of you.
Printed Parts:
1 Baseplate [ ] 6 Cover_Backpanel [ ] Light_Tunnel*[ ]
2 LeftPanel [ ] 7 Display_Frame [ ]
3 RightPanel [ ] 8 Display_Top [ ]
4 FrontPanel [ ] 9 Joystick_Button [ ]
5 Backpanel* [ ] 10 LightSign [ ]
*Backpanel_noHDMI or Backpanel_HDMI | Light_Tunnel Recommended if using Lightstrips
to eliminate LightBleeding through Case.
10
6
7
2
3
4

1
9
5
8

Electronic Parts:
1 Nuts,Bolts etc. [ ] 6 Picade X Hat [ ] 11 Joystick [ ]
2 Magnets [ ] 7 Speaker [ ] 12 Buttons [ ]
3 Fan [ ] 8 On/Off Button [ ] 13 Wires [ ]
4 Raspberry Pi [ ] 9 7“Touch Display [ ] 14 Controller* [ ]
5 Micro SD Card [ ] 10 LightStrip/NeoPixel* [ ] 15 MicroHDMI-HDMI* [ ]
1
2
10
9
3
8
7
5
4
6

11
12
13
14
15

Tools you will need:
1 Allen Key [ ] Superglue [ ]
2 Tweezer [ ] Wires or Jumper Wires [ ]
3 Solder Iron [ ]
4 Deburring Tool [ ]
5 Side Cutter [ ]
3
5
2
1
4

3 PrePARATIONS
SD-Card Preparation
Before we start to assemble our Case, we need to prepare our SD Card with Retropie and
Configure Wifi and SSH.
First download the appropriate Image from https://retropie.org.uk/download/ in my
Case for the Pi4
Now Download your favourite Program to write the Image tot he Micro-SD Card.
For Windows: Raspberry Pi Imager, Etcher, or Win32DiskImager
Win32DiskImager requires an .img file extracted from the .img.gz
image downloaded. You can use a program like 7zip to do this.
For macOS: Raspberry Pi Imager, Etcher, Apple Pi Baker, or the dd command
For Linux: Raspberry Pi Imager, Etcher, or the dd command
MacOS/Linux users can optionally extract the .img image from the
downloaded .img.gz by using gunzip (macOS users can also simply
double-click it)

Create a file called wpa_supplicant.conf in the boot partition using the following template.
(This will be moved at boot to the /etc/wpa_supplicant directory). Replace the Country
with yours.
country=US
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
# RETROPIE CONFIG START
network={
ssid="your_real_wifi_ssid"
psk="your_real_password"
}
# RETROPIE CONFIG END
Make sure to include the RETROPIE CONFIG lines as shown in the Template to ensure that
the RetroPie-Setup wifi configuration module will be able to cleanly edit/delete your
configuration if you wish to change it later.
Hint:
Wifi will not start up if you have an hard wired ethernet connection. After disconnecting
the ethernet cable you'll need to reboot to get Wifi started.
If you want to enable ssh by default as well, you can create a blank file called ssh in the
boot partition too. This is a 'flag' file and will be deleted during boot after ssh is enabled.
When everything is finished, you can unload the Micro-SD Card from your Computer and
put it into your Raspberry Pi.

4 Assembly
Part 1 - Preparing the Printed Parts with Threaded Inserts
Before we start with the Assembly its neccessary to prepare our Printed Parts with the
threaded inserts. So its time to fire up your solder iron and get those Inserts melted in.
We need the following Parts:
- Baseplate
- Back-Panel
- Joystick_Button
- Display_Top
First start with the Build Plate with a total of 15 inserts.

Go on with the Back-Panel with two Inserts for the Cover

The Joystick_Button Part gets a total of 5 Inserts

The Last Part Display_Top takes another 6 Inserts. 2 on each side
Attention:
Do not hurry on these steps, as the Tolerances are very tight and you get in Trouble if the
Inserts are not Lined Up correctly.

Part 2 –We need Buttons…. And Speaker….and the Joystick…..and POWERbutton :)
For this Step we need all the Panels (If you chose the HDMI Backplate, we prepare this as
well) and the Button_Joystick Part. The Buttons have a tight fit and do not clip in fully, in
Case you wonder. The Tight fit is enough to hold them in place.
The Speaker Side needs 4 M3 Bolts, Washer and Nuts

Screw in the M3 Bolts for the Speaker and turn over the part
Arrange the Speaker on the Bolts and put on the Washers if your Screws are long enough,
otherwise screw on the nuts with the help of a tweezer to tighten them.

The Left-Panel is holding our Power Button. Prepare it with the Wires before and screw it
on tight. Wiring depends on the Type of Button.

For the Joystick Part we need all the leftover Buttons and the Joystick. Clip in the Buttons
like on the other Parts and take the M3x20 screws, Washers and Nuts

Put in the Screws and Flip over the Part to align the Joystick part with the connector
near to the Buttons. Pro Tip: Take some Tape to hold the Screws in Place and to Prevent
Falling off when Flippin‘ over.