Reliant Rebel 700 1967 Instruction manual

Page 1
Saloon, Estate and Van
Workshop Manual
©The Reliant Motor Company Limited July 1967 Remastered June 2012 by Atodini
RELIANT REBEL
700 & 750

Page 2
Introduction Contents
This Workshop Manual contains all the
relevant information to assist Reliant Dealers to
service and maintain the Rebel Saloon, Estate and Van
Models.
Dismantling, assembly and adjustment
procedure for all major units and associated parts are
dealt with in detail.
A comprehensive stock of spare parts are
available from Reliant Dealers. a spare parts list is
available for use when ordering. Only genuine Reliant
"R" parts should be used.
Service Department
Reliant Motor Company Limited
Two Gates Tamworth
Staffordshire B77 1HN
Telephone Tamworth 4151
Telegrams Reliant Tamworth 4151
Telex 341501
Parts Supply Department
The Reliant Motor Company Limited
Lynn Lane Shenstone
Staffordshire WS14 0ED
Telephone Shenstone 480671
Original "R" Part No. 90264
General Specification pages3-4
Lubrication and Maintenance pages5-7
Section A Chassis Frame pages8-9
B Front Suspension pages10-11
C Rear Suspension page12
D Steering pages13-17
E Cooling System pages18-23
F Engine pages24-40
G Gearbox pages41-50
H Clutch pages51-55
J Drive Shaft page56
K Rear Axle pages57-63
L Brakes pages64-68
M Road Wheels pages69-70
N Exhaust System page71
P Fuel System pages72-79
Q Body pages80-88
R Interior pages89-95
S Heater page96
T Electrics pages97-113
U Windscreen Washer page 114
V Tightening Torques pages 115-116

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General Specification
700cc Engine
Number of Cylinders 4 in-line
Bore of cylinders 60.45 mm (2.38 in)
Stroke of crankshaft 60.96 mm (2.40in)
Cubic capacity 700 cc (42.72 cu in)
Compression ratio 8.4 to 1
Valve clearance -
Inlet 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold
Exhaust 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold
Performance Data
Brake Horse Power (maximum) 31 at 5,000 rpm
Torque (maximum) 5.251 kg/m (38 lb/ft) at 3,000 rpm
750cc Engine
Number of Cylinders 4 in-line
Bore of cylinders 62.50 mm (2.46 in)
Stroke of crankshaft 60.96 mm (2.40in)
Cubic capacity 748 cc (45.64 cu in)
Compression ratio Saloon, Estate 8.5 to 1
Van 7.5:1
Valve clearance -
Inlet 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold
Exhaust 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold
Performance Data 8.5:1 ratio 7.5:1 ratio
Brake Horse Power (maximum) 34.95 at 5,500 rpm 32.25@ 5,500 rpm
Torque (maximum) 5.25 kg/m (38 lb/ft) at 3,000 rpm 4.98 kg/m (36 lb/ft) at 3,000 rpm
Lubrication System (700cc & 750cc)
Pump Submerged eccentric rotor type
Filter External full-flow type
Oil Pressure 3.16 kg/sq cm (45 lb/sq in)
Ignition System
12 Volt battery and coil Negative Earth
Contact breaker gap 0.38 mm (0.015 in)
Sparking Plugs - Type Motocraft AG42
Gap 0.64 mm (0.025 in)
Firing Order 1, 3, 4, 2
Ignition Timing 10° BTDC
Cooling System
Pressurised radiator, pump assisted circulation and four-bladed fan driven by a "V" belt from engine pulley
Radiator cap pressure 0.28 kg/sq cm (4 lbs/sq in)
Fuel System
Carburettor Zenith downdraught
Fuel Pump AC Delco mechanical
Air Cleaner Paper element type
Clutch
Type Single dry plate 158.75 mm (6.25 in) diameter
Operation Rod operation up to chassis 941001 – Hydraulic from chassis 941001
Gearbox 700cc
Four forward speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on second, third & top
Ratios: Top 1.0000:1
Third 1.454:1
Second 2.461:1
First 4.267:1
Reverse 5.493:1
Gearbox 750cc
Four forward speeds and reverse, synchromesh on all forward gears
Ratio Top 1.000:1
Third 1.320:1
Second 2.040:1
First 3.880:1
Reverse 3.250:1

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Rear axle
Type Spiral bevel gear semi floating
Ratio: saloon/estate/van 4.375:1
Brakes
System Girling hydraulically operated internal expanding to all wheels
Size - Front 203.2 x 31.75 mm (8 in x 1.25 in)
Rear 177.8 x 31.75 mm (7 in x 1.25 in)
Handbrake Lever type operating rear brakes mechanically by cable linkage
Suspension
Front Independent wishbones, coil springs and damper units
Rear Longitudinal semi-elliptic leaf spring, telescopic damper units.
Steering
Type Worm and recirculating ball
Turning Circle 10.37 m (34 ft)
Castor 4°
Camber 0°
Toe-in Zero
Idler shaft inclination 9°
Chassis Data
Wheelbase 2260.6 mm (89 in)
Track, front 1219.2 mm (48 in)
Rear 177.8 mm (46.625 in)
Ground clearance (fully laden) 140.0 mm (5.5 in)
Wheels and tyres
Road wheels 350J x 12
5.50 x 12 in tubeless cross ply
Capacities
Engine including filter 3.13 litres (5.50 pints)
Gearbox (700cc) 0.85 litres (1.50 pints)
(750cc) 0,99 litres (1.75 pints)
Rear axle 1.13 litres (2.00 pints)
Steering box 0.19 litres (0.33 pints)
Cooling system including heater (700cc & early 750cc) 3.98 litres (7 pints)
(later 750cc) 3.41 litres (6 pints)
Fuel tank 27.3 litres (6 gallons)
Vehicle Dimensions Saloon Estate & Van
Overall length 3479.8 mm (137 in) 3657.6 mm (144 in)
Overall width 1473.2 mm (58 in) 1473.2 mm (58 in)
Overall height 1435.1 mm (56.5 in) 1409.7 mm (55.5 in)
Kerb weight
Saloon 558.8 kg (1232 lbs)
Estate 603.3 kg (1330 lbs)
Van 572.9 kg (1263 lbs)

Page 5
Lubrication and maintenance
1. Rear axle filler plug Oil
2. Gearbox filler/level plug
or dipstick/filler plug Oil
3. Generator rear bearing Oil
4. Steering idler box Oil
5. Steering Box Oil
6. Oil Filler – Engine Oil
7. Front Hubs Grease
8. Front suspension plugs Grease
9. Oil Filter Replace
10. Master Cylinder(s) Brake fluid
11. Rear leaf springs Spray oil
12. Handbrake compensator Grease

Page 6
Weekly Check
Check oil level and top-up if necessary.
Check water level of radiator.
Check tyre pressures.
Check battery electrolyte level.
At First 500 Miles (800 km) (Free Service)
Lubrication
Change engine oil and fit new filter.
Change gearbox and rear axle oils.
Oil or grease all lubrication points.
Check steering box level and top up if necessary.
Adjustments
Tighten cylinder head, rocker shaft, sump and manifold
fixings to correct torque.
Check and adjust valve clearances.
Check and adjust fan belt.
Examine and adjust distributor points.
Check and adjust brakes.
Check and adjust clutch.
Check hydraulic system, bleed and top-up the master
cylinder(s) as necessary.
Adjust tyre pressures and check security of wheel nuts.
Check all body, steering, spring and suspension fixings and
steering connections.
Check front wheel bearings.
Balance the road wheels.
Check and adjust door operation.
Road or roller test and adjust carburettor or timing if
required.
General
Top-up the battery, radiator and washer bottle.
Check operation of seat adjustment, all controls, lights,
horn, instruments and windscreen wipers etc.
Check battery connections.
Check for water or oil leaks.
Every 1000 miles (1,600 km)
Lubrication
Top-up engine, gearbox, rear axle and steering box oil
levels.
Top up master cylinder(s) fluid levels if necessary.
Oil or grease all lubrication points.
Adjustments
Check and adjust brakes.
Check and adjust clutch.
Check tyre pressures and security of wheel nuts.
General
Check level of electrolyte in battery.
Every 5,000 miles (8,000 km)
Lubrication
Change engine oil and fit new filter.
Change gearbox oil.
Oil or grease all lubrication points.
Check steering box oil and top-up if necessary.
Clean oil filler cap.
Adjustments
Tighten cylinder head, rocker shaft, sump and manifold
fixings to correct torque.
Check and adjust valve clearances.
Check and adjust fan belt.
Examine and adjust distributor points.
Check air cleaner. (replace every 10,000 miles).
Check and adjust brakes.
Check and adjust clutch.
Check hydraulic system, bleed and top-up the master
cylinder(s) as necessary.
Reposition road wheels and check tyre pressures.
Check front wheel bearings.
Balance the road wheels.
Check and adjust door operation.
Road or roller test and adjust carburettor or timing if
required.
General
Top-up the battery, radiator and washer bottle.
Check operation of seat adjustment, all controls, lights,
horn, instruments and windscreen wipers etc.
Check battery connections.
Check for water or oil leaks.
Every 15,000 miles (24,000 km)
The 15,000 mile service is the same as the 5,000 mile service
with the addition of the following recommendations:
Change rear axle oil.
Re-pack front wheel bearings with grease.
Lubricate front suspension vertical link lower pivot.

Page 7
Approved Lubricants (Winter & Summer)
Mobil Castrol Esso BP Shell Petrofina Duckhams Texaco
Engine
Mobiloil super
or Mobiloil
special
20w/50
Castrolite
Castrol GTX
Esso Extra
Motor Oil
10w/30 or
Uniflo
BP Super
Viscostatic
10w/40 or
Energol SAE
20w
Shell
Super
Motor Oil
Fina
Multigrade
motor oil
10w/30 or
20w/50
Q20-50
Motor Oil
Havoline
motor oil
10w/30 or
20w/50
Gearbox Mobilube
GX 80
Castrol Hypoy
Light
Esso Gear Oil
GX 80
Gear Oil
SAE 80EP
Spirax
80 EP
Pontonic
MP SAE 80
Hypoid 80 Multigear
EP 80
Rear Axle Mobilube
GX 90
Castrol Hypoy Esso Gear Oil
GX 80/140
Gear Oil
SAE 90 EP
Spirax
90 EP
Pontonic
MP SAE 90
Hypoid 90 Multigear
EP 90
Steering
Box
Mobilube
GX 80
Castrol Hypoy
Light
Esso Gear Oil
GX 80
Gear Oil
SAE 80 EP
Spirax
80 EP
Pontonic
MP SAE 80
Hypoid 80 Multigear
EP 80
Front Hub Mobilgrease
MP
LM Grease MP Grease H Energrease L2 Retinax A Marson HTL2 LB 10 Marfak
Chassis Mobilgrease
super
MS3 Grease MP Grease
(moly)
Energrease
L21M
Retinax AM Marson LM2 LBM 10 Molytex 2
Brakes Castrol Girling Crimson Brake & Clutch Fluid

Page 8
Section A Chassis Frame

Page 9

Page 10
Section B
Figure 1 Front suspension exploded view
Front Suspension
1 Vertical link – RH 25 Front hub 48 Nut
2 Plug 26 Stud 49 Shim
3 Upper ball joint assembly 27 Inner bearing 50 Nut
4 Upper ball housing 28 Outer bearing 51 Upper wishbone assembly front
5 Ball Pin 29 Hub cap 52 Upper wishbone assembly rear
6 Lower socket 30 Split pin 53 Bush
7 Upper socket 31 “D” washer 54 Bolt
8 Top cover 32 Nut 55 Washer
9 Spring penny 33 Lower trunnion RH 56 Nut
10 Gaiter 34 Distance piece 57 Pivot pin
11 Gaiter clip 35 Bearing 58 Washer
12 Nut 36 Cover 59 Nut
13 Washer 37 Seal 60 Damper unit assembly
14 Tie rod RH 38 Inner water shield 61 Rubber bush top
15 Bolt 2.125” long 39 Outer water shield 62 Rubber bush bottom
16 Nut 40 Seal 63 Spring
17 Set screw 1” long 41 Lower wishbone & bracket 64 Spring retaining collet
18 Set screw assembly RH 65 Dirt shield
19 Lock washer 42 Lower wishbone & bush RH 66 Spring clip
20 Stub axle shaft 43 Bracket 67 Bolt
21 Nut 44 Fulcrum bolt 68 Washer
22 Washer 45 Nut 69 Nut
23 Oil seal 46 Bolt 70 Bolt
24 Retainer 47 washer

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Description
The independent front suspension comprises upper and lower
wishbone assemblies and vertical links assisted by coil spring and
damper units.
The upper wishbones are bolted to a ball joint on the vertical link and
secured and pivoted to the vehicle chassis suspension tower.
The lower wishbone assembly, secured to a trunnion attached to the
vertical link, supports the coil spring and damper unit. Two brackets
bolted to the chassis support the wishbones, which are also pivoted.
Routine maintenance
Every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) the front wheel bearings should be
packed with grease. The vertical link lower pivots should also be
greased by removing the plugs and screwing in a 45° angled grease
nipple.
Front Hubs
To remove and dismantle (see Figure 1)
1. Jack up the vehicle and pace on suitable stands. Remove
road wheel.
2. Unscrew the two countersunk screws (one on later
vehicles) and remove the brake drum from the hub
assembly.
3. Screw a No 10 set screw into the grease cap and force the
cap from the hub.
4. Extract the split pin, unscrew the castellated nut and
withdraw the hub assembly from the stub axle, complete
with the “D” washer.
5. Remove the inner and outer bearings from the hub.
6. Using a soft drift, drive the outer tracks of the bearings and
the grease seal retainer from the hub.
Reassembly
1. Locate the inner and outer tracks in the hub using a suitable
drift.
2. Fit the bearings to the hub. Do not fit the sealing felt and
retainer at this stage.
3. Position the hub assembly on the stub axle and secure with
the “D” washer and the castellated nut. Tighten until
resistance is felt when turning the hub.
4. Slacken the nut back until a bearing end float of between
0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 in) is obtained. A dial gauge is
preferable for this measurement but if not available,
slacken off the retaining nut half a flat, equivalent of 30°.
See Figure 2. If the split pin hole in the stub axle shaft does
not line up with the castellated nut, slacken the nut a little
further until it does.
5. Mark the position by centre punching the nut and stub axle,
see Figure 3.
6. Remove the hub assembly and pack the bearing assembly
with the recommended grease.
Note: it is essential when re-packing the bearing that the space
between the bearings and the bearing tracks must be completely
filled. A smear of grease over the bearings is not sufficient.
Figure 2 Hub retaining nut.
Figure 3 Centre punch marks on nut and stub axle.
7. Attach a new sealing felt to the seal retainer with jointing
compound. When the compound has set, soak the seal in
engine oil and squeeze out the surplus oil.
8. Fit the seal retainer to the hub positioning the felt face
towards the centre of the vehicle.
9. Refit the hub assembly, “D” washer and nut to the stub
axle, tightening the nut until the centre punch marks align.
Secure the nut with a new split pin and fit a new hub cap.
10. Shake the hub assembly to ensure that end float is still
present.
Front suspension removal
1. Jack up vehicle, place on suitable stands and remove road
wheel.
2. Disconnect the brake flexible pipe from the suspension
tower and plug the pipes to prevent ingress of dirt and fluid
loss.
3. Unscrew the two bolts and nuts from the top and bottom
fixing points and remove the damper unit through the
wishbones.
4. Disconnect the outer track rod from the tie rod lever.
5. Unscrew the two nuts from the inner chassis frame and
withdraw the lower wishbone from the chassis. Note the
position and sizes of the shims.
6. Support the lower wishbone assembly and unscrew the two
nuts from the upper wishbone pivot pin. Carefully tap out
the pivot pin. The front suspension assembly can now be
withdrawn for further dismantling if necessary.
7. Replace in the reverse order and bleed the brakes. Check
the steering geometry (see Section D)

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Section C
Description
Rear suspension is provided by damper assisted four leaf springs. The
rear of the springs are suspended and pivoted on shackles attached to
the chassis frame. Two "U" bolts secure each spring to the rear axle
and also locate the damper unit lower mounting bracket.
Routine maintenance
The rubber bushes in the damper units, leaf springs and shackles
should be kept free from oil or grease and replaced when signs of
wear or degrading become apparent.
To prevent squeaking, occasionally spray the leaf springs with oil. The
damper units should be periodically checked to ensure full movement
is still obtainable. A seized unit will give only minimal movement
leading to an excessively hard ride.
Leaf spring
To remove (Figure 1)
1. Jack up the vehicle under the differential and lower on
to axle stands, securely installed under the chassis
frame.
2. Remove the road wheel.
3. Allow the jack to support the axle. Disconnect the
damper by removing the ½”UNF lower securing nut,
bolt and washer.
4. Unscrew four 3/8”UNF locknuts and four hexagon nuts
from the two “U” bolts securing the leaf springs to the
axle. Remove the “U” bolts.
Rear suspension
5. Remove ½”UNF lower shackle nut and bolt and lower
the rear of the leaf spring to the ground.
6. Unscrew ½”UNF nut and bolt securing the front eye of
the leaf spring to the chassis mounting bracket and
remove the leaf spring.
7. Replace in reverse order.
Damper unit
To remove
1. Remove the ½”UNF nut, bolt and washer from the lower
damper mounting bracket.
2. Unscrew the 3/8”UNF lock nut securing the top mounting
to the chassis and remove the damper from the vehicle.
3. Replace in reverse order.
Bump Stops (700cc)
Two bump stops, located under the chassis, are both secured to the
mounting brackets by two split pins. To remove pull out the split pins
and withdraw the bump stop.
Bump stops (750cc)
The bump stops of later vehicles are secured by three 5/16”UNF nuts
and lock washers to a bracket welded to the chassis side frame. To
remove, undo the nuts and withdraw the bump stop.

Page 13
Section D
Description
The steering mechanism comprises a single-stage worm on the lower
end of the steering column supported by two ball races located in the
steering box. Engaging the single-stage worm is a recirculating ball
steering nut assembly secured in position by a rocker shaft which, in
turn supports a drop arm linked to an idler shaft assembly. Outer tie-
rods are then used to connect the steering linkage to the tie-rod
levers of both front suspension assemblies.
Worm and steering nut assembly wear can be taken up by reducing
the number of shims behind the cover plate. If, after omitting one or
two shims, slackness is still apparent, renew thw cover plate spring.
End play in the column can be prevented by removing one or more
shims from behind the steering box end plate.
Routine Maintenance
The steering box oil level should be checked at regular intervals (see
service schedule) and topped up if necessary. Grease the idler shaft
assembly every 1000 miles (1,600 km) to ensure free movement of
the steering gear.
Steering box assembly removal (Figure 1)
1. Disconnect batter leads and remove battery. Remove ¼” set
screw, lock washer and nut and disconnect battery earth
lead and harness earth leads from battery tray.Note: If the
battery is located in the LH of the engine compartment
ignore this operation
2. Disconnect the coil leads
3. Remove three ¼” UNF set screws, plain washers, lock
washers and nuts and remove battery tray, complete with
coil, from the engine compartment.
4. Disconnect horn leads, unscrew 2 x ¼” UNF set screws,
washers and nuts and remove horn from engine
compartment.
5. Remove fascia (see section R).
6. Unscrew four no.8 self tapping screws and remove support
plate securing the steering column to the body.
7. Disconnect the outer tie-rod from the steering box drop
arm and tie-rod lever by unscrewing 3/6” UNF nuts.
Note: An extractor tool must be used to release the tie-rod
end taper. Do Not Hammer Out.
8. Unscrew the 7/16” UNF nut and disconnect centre tie-rod
from the steering box drop arm, again using an extractor
tool.
9. Remove the two 3/8”UNF bolts and single 3/8”UNF bolt
holding the steering box assembly to the chassis mounting
bracket. The single fixing bolt taps in to a weld nut on the
fixing bracket.
10. Move the steering box to release the split location dowel
from the mounting bracket, then, to facilitate removal,
rotate the steering box 180° until the rocker shaft spline
faces upwards. Then push the steering column through the
bulkhead, at the same time lifting the steering box clear of
the engine compartment, enabling the complete assembly
to be withdrawn from the front of the vehicle.
11. Replace in reverse order taking note of the following point:
The split location dowel is fitted in production to lock the
steering column at the correct angle. When replacing with a
new steering box however, the dowel is
not required, as the support plate and grommet secured to
the bulkhead will set this angle correctly.
Steering
Dismantling of steering box (Figure 1)
If the correct oil level is maintained in the steering box, no attention
to the internal components should be necessary. However, if
excessive wear is apparent on the worm and steering
nut assembly or steering column that cannot be rectified by the
deletion of shims, dismantle the steering box as follows:
1. Remove oil plug and drain the steering box oil.
2. Unscrew the 7/8”UNF nut securing the drop arm to the
rocker shaft spline. An extractor tool is then necessary to
remove the drop arm from the spline. Do not use force in
this operation as damage to the spline or drop arm could
result. Retain rocker shaft oil seal.
3. Unscrew two bolts, complete with lock washers and remove
the small cover plate to release the spring pressure on the
rocker shaft.
4. Remove four bolts and lock washers and detach the end
plate complete with shims from the steering box.
5. Remove the washer and ball race and withdraw the inner
column from the box. To facilitate removal, the column
should be rotated.
6. Release the tab washers, unscrew four bolts and detach the
large cover plate, complete with shims.
7. Remove bush and washer then withdraw rocker shaft and
steering nut assembly from steering box. Take care not to
misplace the steering nut balls.
8. Check components for wear, replacing as necessary.
9. Reassemble in reverse order, refit steering box to the
vehicle. Check steering for slackness and end float and
adjust accordingly.
Steering linkage removal (Figure 2)
1. Disconnect the RH outer tie-rod from the steering box drop
arm by unscrewing the 3/8”UNF nuts.
An extractor tool or suitable wedges must be used to release the tie
rod taper. Do not hammer out. This procedure should be adopted for
all steering linkage tapers.
2. Unscrew the 7/16”UNF nut and disconnect the centre tie-
rod from the steering drop arm and idler shaft drop arm.
3. Disconnect the LH outer tie from the idler drop arm and tie
rod lever by unscrewing the 3/8”UNF nuts.
4. The adjustable outer and centre tie rods require no regular
maintenance but the rubber gaiters, secured by a circlip,
should occasionally be checked for cracking or damage and
renewed if necessary.
5. Replace in reverse order.

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Page 15
Idler shaft assembly: remove and dismantle
1. Disconnect outer and centre tie rods from idler shaft
assembly drop arm as previously described.
2. Unscrew two 3/8”UNF bolts and single 3/8”UNF bolt and
withdraw idler shaft assembly from chassis bracket.
3. Remove circlip then detach drop arm from idler shaft.
4. Pull out split pin, unscrew castellated nut, remove dust
cover, spring disc and thrust washers then withdraw
idler shaft from housing.
5. Using a suitable drift, extract needle bearing and bush
from idler bearing housing.
6. Check all components for wear and renew as required.
7. Reassemble in reverse order and refit idler assembly to
chassis bracket.
8. Check steering geometry, as described in the following
text.
Steering measurements and adjustments
Before carrying out measurements and adjustments of the
steering and front suspension, position the vehicle on a smooth
and level surface. Inflate the tyres to the correct pressures and
place a load of 150lb (68kg) on each seat to represent the average
weight for each occupant. Also ensure that the fuel tank is full.
Lock stop adjustment
Turn the wheels until on full lock and check that the drop arm is
abutting the lock stop, which is screwed in to a boss on the chassis
frame (Figure 3) If, however, a fouling condition exists between
the centre tie rod and the chassis frame, slacken the lock nut and
adjust the lock stop until the condition is eliminated. Take care to
re-tighten the lock nut.
Figure 3 Lock stop adjustment

Page 16
Track adjustment
Centralise the steering by turning the steering wheel from lock to
lock, counting the turns necessary, then turning back exactly half
the number to ensure the steering box is fully centred. The
steering wheel spokes should be in a horizontal position.
Using Dunlop or similar wheel alignment equipment measure the
front wheel alignment. If adjustment is required slacken the outer
tie rod lock nuts and turn the tie rods until the correct alignment
is obtained. Take one reading, roll the vehicle forwards so the
wheels rotate 180°, then obtain a second reading and adjust the
rods to the mean of both readings. This compensates for any
wheel rim run out.
Castor and camber adjustment
The following instructions for measuring caster and camber are
applicable to the Dunlop instruments. Other types of measuring
equipment will be equally effective.
The caster angle is 4° and the camber angle 0-1/2° positive (Figure
4)
To measure camber
Check that the vehicle is on a level surface, that the front wheels
are pointing straight ahead and that the tyres are correctly
inflated.
The level of the floor should be checked with a Dunlop CG/4
camber gauge (Figure 5) by placing the gauge on the floor in the
direction in which it is desired to check the floor level, adjusting
the dial (B) to centre the bubble in the spirit level (C). The angle of
inclination is read from the scale on the dial (D).
If a level floor is not available it is possible to work on a small
slope and correct the camber reading by adding or subtracting the
measurement of floor inclination.
Apply the long edge of the gauge to the tyre wall, holding the
gauge upright but avoiding the part of the tyre that bulges due to
load. A small departure of the gauge from absolute vertical will
not affect the reading. Adjust dial (A) until bubble in level (D) is
central, read camber out or in from the scale in dial (A).
The amount of camber should be 0° to 1/2°. If this reading is not
obtained, shims should be added or deleted equally to both the
right and left hand fulcrum fixing bolts until the correct camber
angle is achieved.
To measure castor angle
Check that the vehicle is on a level surface, that the front wheels
are pointed directly ahead and that the tyre pressures are correct.
Figure 4 Castor, Camber angles and swivel pin inclination.
Figure 5 Camber gauge
Follow the same procedure for checking the floor as for measuring
the camber angle and if necessary make corrections to the caster
angle.
Using Dunlop CG/6 turntables and run-on ramps, place one
turntable with locking pin in place in front of the centre of each
front wheel with run-on ramps at the rear of the turntables.
Place the other ramps in front of each rear wheel so that the back
of the car will be raised to the same height as the front.
Drive the car on to the turntables with the locking pins in position
so that the centres of the front wheels are over the centres of the
turntables.
Attach the special clamp (Figure 6).
Remove the locking pins and check there is free movement of the
turntable plates (fore, aft and laterally).
Fit the Dunlop CG/5 gauge with caster dial to the left of spindle (E)
and secure with knurled nut (Figure 7).
The gauge should be set to approximately horizontal. Set
turntable scales to zero.
Steer the wheel 20° IN, i.e. Right-hand wheel steered to the left or
left-hand wheel steered to the right as viewed from the driving
position.
Set the castor dial on the top to zero (Figure 7).
Centre the bubble in the level (E) by turning the lower knurled
screw.
Centre the bubble in the level (F) by turning the lower knurled
screw (H).
Figure 6 Caster gauge clamp

Page 17
To avoid the possibility of the wheel rotating on its axle between
setting the gauge and taking the reading apply the footbrake hard.
With the footbrake still applied, centre the bubbles in the level (E)
& (F) by turning the upper castor dial. Take the reading from the
dial and record. The castor angle should be 4°. If this reading is not
obtained, shims should be added or removed from the RH or LH
fulcrum fixing bolts.
Figure 7 Castor gauge
Figure 8 Steering template
Using template when turntables are not available
Place template against one of the front wheels and draw a line on
the ground parallel to the wheel. Then place the template on the
floor with its base along the line and draw lines P-Q and X-Y
(Figure 8).
Attach the clamp (Figure 6) and fit the Dunlop CG/5 gauge as
previously explained.
Steer the wheel 20° In as previously explained.
This can be checked using the template to see that the wheel is
parallel to the P-Q line (Figure 9).
Set castor dial to zero, centre the bubble (E) by turning the lower
knurled screw (H) (Figure 7).
Check the castor angle as previously explained and adjust if
necessary.
Figure 9 Steering template

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Section E
Description
The engine is water cooled, assisted by a fan. The system is of the
positive circulation type, incorporating a centrifugal water pump
driven by a "V" belt from the crankshaft pulley. The fan is mounted on
a pulley pressed on to the front of the water pump spindle. To
pressurise the system and raise the boiling point of the coolant, the
radiator filler cap has a spring loaded valve set to open at 0.28 kg/cm²
(4.0 lb/in²)
A wax type thermostat in conjunction with a by pass hose assists rapid
warming up and maintains a constant operating temperature.
The water temperature is indicated by a meter, housed in the left-
hand gauge of the fascia. This is measured electrically by a
temperature sensitive sender unit screwed in to the thermostat
housing.
Routine maintenance
The coolant level should be regularly checked and topped up if
necessary. Check the cooling system periodically for leaks and ensure
the fan belt is correctly adjusted.
Anti-freeze mixture
In the winter months an anti-freeze must be added to the coolant in
the radiator to prevent damage to the cylinder block or radiator
caused by freezing.
Before refilling, the cooling system should be flushed out thoroughly.
Check the condition of all hoses and connections in the cooling and
heater systems.
It is advisable to pre-mix the anti-freeze with water in a separate
container before refilling the cooling system.
The percentage of anti-freeze solution in the cooling system will
determine the degree of protection and it is advisable to allow a
margin of safety in cases where lower temperatures than normal may
be encountered.
The quantities of anti-freeze for various degrees of protection are
given in a table at the end of this section.
The percentage of anti-freeze in the cooling system can be checked by
measuring the specific gravity of the coolant using a suitable
hydrometer.
It is permissible with modern anti-freeze formulation to leave the anti-
freeze solution in the cooling system throughout the year, provided
that the protection afforded at the onset of Winter has not been
reduced by routine topping up of the coolant water during the
summer months.
Note: During summer months, if no anti-freeze is used a solution of
water plus 3.35 fluid oz of Reliant Coolant Inhibitor "R" part number
10374 MUST be used to maintain the system free of corrosion.
Operation 1 Draining the cooling system
Drain plugs are provided, one on the left hand side of the cylinder
block (Figure 1) and one in the base of the radiator (Figure 2 & 3).
Cooling system
Some vehicles may have a radiator without a drain plug fitted. To
drain the radiator on this type the bottom hose must be removed.
The vehicle should be standing on level ground with the radiator filler
cap removed when draining.
Note: Do not remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot as this
will cause very hot water and steam to be blown out of the filler neck
possibly leading to injury from scalding.
If anti-freeze is being used it is advised that the coolant be collected in
a clean container beneath the vehicle and retained for re-use.
Drain the cooling system and flush through by inserting a hose pipe in
the radiator filler orifice and allowing water to flow through the
system until clean.
Note: It is advisable to leave an indication within the vehicle that the
cooling system has been drained .
Figure 1 Cylinder block drain plug
To refill
Replace drain plugs (refit bottom hose if removed).
If anti-freeze solution has been retained, return it to the cooling
system. If the liquid retained is not sufficient to fill the system, add
additional anti-freeze solution as required. Do not top up with only
water, otherwise the solution may be weakened making it less
effective in adverse conditions.
Do not over fill the radiator. The correct level of the coolant in the
radiator is reached when the top header tank is approximately two
thirds full. Some vehicles may have a radiator with a coolant level
indicator, visible in the filler neck.

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Page 20
Start the engine and run until normal working temperature is
attained. This will remove air locks from the system.
Replace the filler cap.
Water leaks
Run the engine to normal operating temperature to allow the system
to pressurise.
Thoroughly inspect all hose connections for tightness and security.
In the event of the cooling system having been disturbed, i.e. cylinder
head gasket being renewed or water pump / radiator replaced, it is
recommended that a “Barseal” pellet (part No 9946) be introduced to
the system.
New gaskets must always be used and all fixings tightened to the
correct torque to prevent possible ingress of coolant to the oil system.
Radiator
The radiator, secured to the chassis at the front of the engine
compartment, consists of an upper and lower tank connected by a
matrix. An overflow pipe drains surplus coolant to the road should the
system be over filled.
To remove (Figures 2 & 3)
1. Drain the cooling system as has been previously described.
2. Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the hoses from the
water pump and the thermostat housing.
3. Remove the two 5/16” UNF nuts at the bottom of the
radiator (early models) or the four 5/16” UNF bolts on later
cars.
4. The radiator can now be lifted clear and withdrawn from
the engine compartment.
5. Disconnect the radiator hoses and check carefully for
perishing, cracking or damage. Replace them if necessary.
6. Replace in reverse order and refill the cooling system as has
been described earlier in this section.
The water pump
The water pump is mounted on the forward face of the cylinder block
and comprises a cast iron impellor mounted on a spindle with a seal
and thrower. The seal, bearing against the impellor, prevents leaks
around the spindle. The coolant inlet is on the right of the pump body.
A fabricated pulley is pressed on to the front of the spindle to which is
bolted a fan, either two or four bladed depending on engine size.
(figures 4 & 5)
To remove
1. Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator.
2. Slacken the upper and lower dynamo/alternator fixing
bolts.
3. Pivot the dynamo/generator towards the engine and
remove the fan belt.
4. Slacken the hose clips and remove the heater and bypass
hoses.
5. Remove four 5/16” UNF nuts and washers and withdraw
the pump assembly from the studs on the cylinder block.
Dismantling the water pump
1. Unscrew the four ¼” UNF bolts and remove the fan from
the pump pulley.
2. Using a suitable extractor, remove the pulley from the
pump spindle.
3. Release the spindle locating wire clip and press out the
spindle from the pump body, complete with impellor, seal
and thrower disc.
4. Again using a suitable extractor, remove the impellor from
the spindle, followed by the seal and thrower disc.
5. Examine all components for wear and replace any that are
necessary.
To reassemble
1. Position the seal and thrower disc on to the spindle
followed by the impellor. Press the impellor firmly on to the
spindle with a replacer tool.
2. Refit the spindle assembly to the pump body ensuring it is
fully pressed in to position.
3. Note: When reassembling, allow 0.64-0.81mm (0.025-
0.032in) clearance between the impellor blades and the
pump housing.
4. Refit the pump spindle locating spring clip.
5. Press the pulley on to the pump spindle and replace the fan
with the four ¼”UNF bolts and washers.
To replace
1. Clean the sealing faces of both pump and cylinder block and
fit a new gasket.
2. Fit the pump assembly over the studs and refit the nuts and
lock washers, tightening to a torque of 1.66-2.07 kg/m (12-
15 lb/ft).
3. Reconnect the heater and bypass hoses.
4. Refit fan belt and adjust tension (see following text).
5. Refit radiator and connect hoses. Refill the cooling system
and test for leaks.