
9
Ground
When grounding your amplifier, locate a metal area close to the amplifier that is good
source of ground (preferably the floor pan). Once again, investigate the area you wish to
use for electrical wires, vacuum lines, and brake or fuel lines. Use either a wire brush or
sandpaper to eliminate unwanted paint for better contact of the ground. Secure the ground
cable to the body using a bolt, star washer and nut. Spread silicon over the screw and bare
metal to prevent rust and possible water leaks.
Now it’s time to connect the power and ground cables to the amplifier. Cut both cables
to length. Strip off 1/2 –inch (12mm) of the insulation so that the bare wire fits all the way
in the terminal block on the side panel of the amplifier, seating it firmly so no bare wire is
exposed. Use a Philips (cross) type screwdriver to loosen the +BATT and the GND
connections on the amplifier. Insert the ground first, and then the +12V and please make
sure that you place them into the correctly marked terminals. Then tighten the screws down
securely.
Remote
This terminal must be connected to a switched +12V source. Typically, remote turn-on
leads are provided at the source unit that will turn on and off the amplifier in
correspondence with the source. If the source unit does not have a remote turn-on lead, then
a power antenna wire can be used. If neither of these leads is available at the source unit,
then a switched +12V supply must be used, like the ACC, +12V.
Run a minimum of 18 gauge wire from the amplifier location to the source of the switched
+12V lead. If possible, route this wire on the same side of the vehicle as your power cable.
Connect the source remote output to the wire. Go back to the amplifier and cut the wire to
length. Loosen the screw terminal marked REMOTE on the amplifier using a Philips
(cross) type screwdriver. Insert the stripped (bare) portion of the wire into the terminal and
tighten the screw securely.