Thingiverse Scuttlefish User manual

Scuttlefish Assembly
Designed by Sean Charlesworth for Bold Machines 2015
[email protected]
charlesworth-dynamics.com
The Scuttlesh aka The Gowanus Monster is
designed to simply slot together with minimal use
of glue. While a lot of parts will hold together by
Test t all parts before assembling - due to the nature of 3D printing, some minor clean-up or trimming
may be necessary - an x-acto knife and/or emery board are recommended. Extras have been
included for easily lost or damaged pieces.
Many of these kits are one-of-a-kind and may have been assembled for photographs, so some parts
may already be pre-assembled. The newest version of the Monster has open portholes and eyes to
allow for custom lighting installation. Some of the parts pictured may differ slightly from what you
have, but will assemble the same.
1) Install propellers by gently inserting
into the prop housing - using tweezers
may help. The best method is to get it
positioned and gently press down on the
center. If the propeller won’t insert easily,
use an x-acto knife to enlarge the hole
slightly.
2) Glue propeller assembly to the head.
v3
pins and friction, everything can be glued together if desired. Any ‘super’ glue will work - use it
sparingly - I recommend Gorilla Super Glue.
3) The newest version of the Monster
has a spot to install an on/off switch for
custom lighting. Simply screw switch into
the bottom half of the body.

5) Holding the body assembly rmly together, test t it to
the back of the head. Ideally, the body should seat into
the ‘collar’ of the head. This can take some rm wiggling
and pressure (don’t stab yourself with the ns!).
If everything ts well and tight - you’re good! If the t is
loose, take the head off and use 4 of the square pegs to
attach it to the body.
6) Insert windows into portholes. One side of
the window may be smoother than the other -
make sure they all match.
7) Insert portholes into body.
4) Attach mid-n to bottom of body using 4 of the square pegs. Fit the top body onto the same 4 pegs.
You may have to wiggle it a bit.
NOTE
The newest version of the head, body
and portholes have openings to allow
installation of custom lighting. Assembly
of new or old version of the parts is the
same regardless.

8) The eye window inserts are optional, but if desired, glue into the
frame. The windows may need some trimming around the edges -
an emery board works well. Try rotating window 180° to see which
way ts the frame better.
9) Apply glue to eye windows and attach to head - the angle can
be adjusted as you like. The newest version of the head has open
eye sockets to allow for lighting - in this case only apply glue to the
frame and not the window itself.
10) Insert pins into tentacles.
The tentacles are somewhat
delicate - be gentle! Hold the
tentacle by base and insert pins
- they may need gently rocked
to get started.
11) Holding tentacle by base,
insert into head, again, they
may need gently rocked to
start. Order does not matter
- tentacles can be rotated to
desired position.
12) Insert top n by sliding in the back end rst, then seating the front. The newest version of the
body is open underneath the n to allow optional lights to illuminate translucent ns.

13) Glue support arm to platform. There are arrows on each part
which indicate the head of the monster and should all face the
same way. The arrow on the platform should point toward the ‘F’
on the support arm.
15) The monster gets positioned as shown. The front cradle
goes in front of the collar.
14) Glue cradles to support arm. These are cut and
positioned to exactly t the bottom of the Monster. Notice they
are marked (F)ront and (R)ear and are also marked with ‘^’
which should face toward the head of the Monster. Match the
‘F’ cradle to the ‘F’ on the support arm.