Westfield AeroRace 2008 Manual

Aluminium
Paneling
Pedal Area
& Pipes
Wiring Loom
Suspension
& Steering
Differential &
Rear Brakes
Flexible Brake
Hoses
Fuel Tank &
Supply System
Prop Shaft &
Steering Column
Body Work
Rollcage
Engine &
Systems
Final
Fittings
Optional
Anti Rollbar
Suspension
Set-up
Pre Start
Checks
Introduction
BUILD MANUAL

Westfield Sportscars Ltd
Unit One Gibbons Industrial Park
Dudley Road
Kingswinford
West Midlands
DY6 8XF
[phone]
Fax: [phone]
Published by Westfield Sportscars Ltd
First Published 2008
Copyright 2008
Westfield Sportscars Ltd
All rights reserved. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or
review, as permitted under the Copyright, Design and Patents Act 1988, no part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by means electronic, electrical,
chemical, optical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior written permission. All enquiries
should be addressed to the publisher.

Introduction I
Welcome
As you are reading this construction manual, either you are contemplating the purchase of a Westfield
Sports car or have already done so. In either case we would like to thank you for your interest in our
product which we firmly believe is the best available. To that end we are prepared to back up our claims
with a full warranty on every part bought from us.
Westfield Sportscars were established in 1982. Since then Westfield has produced many thousands of cars.
We lay claim to the title of “Europe’s biggest component car manufacturer”. Though an enviable title,
Westfield does not intend to rest on its laurels. We are constantly improving our cars, developing many
options and additions with which to further the desirability of our product.
At Westfield Sportscars we believe that much of the enjoyment of the car should be it its actual
construction. The whole point of the building a Westfield is to realise a vehicle what will fit the purpose for
which it is intended. With many thousands of satisfied owners, both here and abroad, we believe that at
Westfield we have accomplished that objective.
It is in our best interest to deliver to you the means of building a car, simply and quickly, with a minimum of
complication and a maximum amount of fun.
We sincerely hope you enjoy that experience
Julian Turner
Managing Director
Westfield Sportscars Ltd
This publication specifically covers the Westfield Aero Race model.
The manual is divided into chapters, each covering a different aspect of the vehicle build. We recommend
that you work through the build following the chapters in chronological order. Each chapter illustrates the
parts are required to complete the chapter along with a list of tools required. Tasks are broken down into
step by step instructions, supported by images of the build process. Notes are included along the way to
provide addition information or helpful tips on building.

Safety II
Safety
You will not need to use welding or grinding equipment in the building of a Westfield sports car. However, it is very
important that you take ALL necessary SAFEY precautions.
1. ALWAYS WEAR
Goggles or protective glasses when drilling.
Protective gloves when handling fibreglass.
2. DO NOT guess at the torque settings.
Always refer to the torque settings.
If you do not own a torque wrench, then hire one form a good quality hire shop.
3. IT IS ESSENTIAL that the supports placed under the chassis during the build process are suitable and
SAFE for use.
Westfield Sportscars manufacture chassis support frames that are designed specifically for the
purpose and are available from the factory.
4. DO NOT use bricks, building blocks or wooden packing cases.
Bricks and building blocks are not suitable as they are liable to topple.
Wooden packing cases are not suitable as they are liable to crush as the weight of the car
increases during the build process.
5. DO NOT connect the battery positive lead until the wiring loom has been fully installed and all earth
cables have been connected.
The battery must not be connected until all tests have been completed.
6. DO NOT fill the fuel tank until the car is complete.
The fuel tank must not be filled until all of the “set-up” tests have been completed.
7. PLEASE take care with brake fluid and brake fluid spillage.
8. ALWAYS have a suitable fire extinguisher at hand.
Have FUN but please, be SAFE

Torque Settings III
Torque Chart
Brake System
Suspension
Steering
Transmission
Other
It is important to remember that ALL suspension bolts and nyloc nuts will be torqued
tightened during the set-up stage. During assembly, all suspension bolts and nyloc nuts should
be “nipped “ only and not torque tightened.
Component
Thread
Lb/ft
Nm
Notes
1
3-way Brake Pipe Union
M10 x 1.0
5
7
MAX
2
Brake Pressure Switch
M10 x 1.0
5
7
MAX
3
Front Brake Calliper Mounting Bolts
M12 x 1.75
40
54
4
Rear Brake Calliper Mounting Bolts
M10 x 1.5
35
47
Loctite
Component
Thread
Lb/ft
Nm
Notes
5
Track Rd End Nuts To Steering Arm
7/16” UNF
28
38
6
Wishbone Securing Bolts To Chassis
7/16” UNF
30
40
7
Lower Ball Joint Securing Bolts to Wishbone
M10 x 1.5
28
34
8
Lower Ball Joint Nut To Upright
1/2" UNF
25
34
9
Top Ball Joint Nut To Upright
M12 x 1.5
25
34
10
Shock Absorber To Chassis Mounting Bolts
7/16” UNF
30
40
Component
Thread
Lb/ft
Nm
Notes
11
Upper Steering Column Mounting Bolts
M8 x 1.25
20
27
MAX
12
Steering Column Universal Joint
M8 x 1.25
20
27
MAX
13
Steering Rack Mounts
M8 x 1.25
20
27
MAX
14
Steering Wheel Nut
9/16” UNF
35
47
Component
Thread
Lb/ft
Nm
Notes
15
Propshaft To Differential Bolts
M10 x 1.0
35
47
Loctite
16
Differential Bolts To Chassis
M12 x 1.75
30
40
17
Differential Studs To Chassis
M12 x 1.75
40
54
18
Differential Stabiliser To Chassis
7/16” UNF
20
27
19
Stabiliser To Differential Setscrews
M10 x 1.5
20
27
20
LOBRO Joint Allen Bolts
M8 x 1.25
25
34
Loctite
21
Driveshaft Hub Nut
M22 x 1.5
250
340
22
Differential Filler Plug
M20 x 1.5
10
13
Component
Thread
Lb/ft
Nm
Notes
23
Handbrake Lever Mounting Bolts
M8 x 1.25
20
27
24
Roll Over Bar Bolts
M12 x 1.75
40
54
25
Seat Belt Mounting Bolts
7/16” UNF
26
35
Loctite
26
Wheel Nuts (Rimstock)
M12 x 1.25
65
90

Bolt Finder IV
Bolt Length –Actual Size
Metric Bolts Imperial Bolts
Bolt Diameter –Actual Size
Notes
The difference between a BOLT and a SETSCREW is that a bolt is only partially threaded and has a plain
upper section, whereas a setscrew is threaded along its whole length.
The length of a bolt or a setscrew is measures from the underside of the head.
The diameter of a bolt is measured across the plain non-threaded section, for a setscrew measure across
the top of the threads.
60mm
55mm
50mm
45mm
40mm
35mm
30mm
25mm
20mm
16mm
2 3/4"
3”
2 1/2"
2 1/4"
2”
1 3/4"
1 1/2"
1 3/8”
1 1/4"
1”
3 1/4"
3 1/2"
4”
3 3/4"
M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 7/16”
Plain Section Threaded Section
60mm

Getting Started V
Getting Started
If you have purchased the optional Westfield chassis support stands then, with the help of an assistant, lift and
position the chassis onto these supports.
If you have not purchases these stands, then ensure that the chassis is positioned onto suitable supports, which
allow the various parts to be fitted.
Important - Do not attempt to modify any of the items supplied without specific reference to the technical helpline
at the factory
Positioning –Throught the manual
Storage of bodywork
The bodywork must not be stored in plastic sheet, in damp or humid conditions.
Do not store bodywork in direct sunlight, in greenhouses or conservatories.
Westfield Sportscars will not accept warranty claims for damage to bodywork where the damage has been caused
by any of the above conditions.
Support
During your build you may from time to time require further support in addition to this manual. Westfield
Sportscars prides itself on its industry leading customer support. We recommend firstly visiting our website:
www.wsestfield-sportcars.co.uk. Our Support pages provide answers to frequently asked questions on a model by
model basis. If your answer is not available there we also offer a telephone support service on: 01384 400077.
Please follow the telephone menu instructions for support. Alternatively email technical@westfield-
sportscars.co.uk.

Revision 33
Chapter 1
Aluminium Paneling
Contents
INTRODUCTION ..............................................................1
Tools Required ................................................................1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF ALUMINIUM PANELS .....................................3
1Panelling - Tunnel................................................3
2Panelling –Rear Bulkhead ....................................3
3Panelling - Inner Footwell..................................... 4
4Panelling - Bulkhead ............................................ 4
5Panelling - Scuttle ............................................... 4
6Panelling - Exterior Side ....................................... 4
7Panelling - Floor Panels........................................ 4
8Panelling - Tunnel Top......................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
The aluminium panel kit is supplied flat packed and is protected in transit by a removable plastic film. All the panels are CNC cut and ready
drilled for easy installation. In some cases it may be necessary to trim or bend returns on some panels (usually the tunnel inner sections.) This
is not undertaken at the factory to prevent damage to the other panels during packaging. All the panels are attached to the chassis using 4.1
mm closed aluminium rivets and sealed using silicone sealant.
If you have ordered your vehicle with aluminium panels fitted then please proceed to chapter 2.
Tools Required
A. Rubber Mallet
B. Pop Rivet Gun
C. 4.1mm Drill Bit
D. “G” Clamp’s
E. De-burring Bit
F. Metal Files
G. Tin Snips
H. Silicone Gun
I. Silicone Sealer
J. Drill

Aluminium Paneling 1•2
Parts Required
A. Inner Tunnel Panels
B. Rear Bulkhead Panel
C. Flat Floor Panels
D. Exterior Panels
E. Bulkhead Panels
F. Scuttle Panel
G. Drivers Side Inner Footwell Panel
H. Passenger Side Inner Footwell Panel
I. Tunnel Top Panel
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I

1•3Aluminium Paneling
FITTING OF ALUMINIUM PANELS
1Panelling - Tunnel
1 Locate the two tunnel panels [A] from
your parts, place the panels in their
positions according to the positioning
diagram and carefully clamp in place (Fig
1.1).
1.1
2 Ensure the panel is secured firmly in
position then drill into the chassis using
the panel as your template (Fig 1.2).
1.2
3 When all the holes are drilled, remove
the clamps and the panel.
4 Remove any burs from the chassis with
a de-burring tool and a drill.
5 Apply silicone sealant to the surfaces of
the chassis that the panel will be in
contact with (Fig 1.3).
1.3
NOTE:
The front of the inner tunnel panel is bent
around the chassis using a soft mallet (see
image below).
The rear of the panel fits inside of the
chassis tubing so the rivets can be fixed from
inside of the tunnel (see image below).
6 Carefully place the panel on to the chassis
and place rivets in the holes ready for
final fitment (Fig 1.4).
1.4
7 Pull up the rivets with a rivet gun.
8 Remove any excess sealant with a clean
cloth and white spirit.
2Panelling –Rear Bulkhead
1 Fit the rear bulkhead panel [B],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Note that the panel needs to be bent slightly
to get it in place, be careful to minimize
creasing (see image below).
A
B
D
E
E
F
I
G
C
Panel Positioning
A. Tunnel Sides
B. Rear Bulkhead
C. Floor Panels
D. Side Panels
E. Front Bulkhead
G. Scuttle Panel
H. Inner Footwell
I. Tunnel Top Panel

Aluminium Paneling 1•4
3Panelling - Inner Footwell
1 Fit the inner footwell panels [G,H],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Unlike the other tunnel panels, the inside
footwell panels are fitted to the inside of the
tunnel. This produces additional space
around the pedals.
The driver’s side footwell panel is a GRP item
with a molded footrest (see image below).
4Panelling - Bulkhead
1 Fit the bulkhead panels [E], repeating
the process used for the tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Note the panels are mounted from inside
the engine bay. Be sure to mount the panel
with the holes for the master cylinder on the
driver’s side (see image below).
5Panelling - Scuttle
1 Fit the scuttle panel [F], repeating the
process used for the tunnel.
NOTE:
This panel does not cover the driver’s
footwell (see image below).
6Panelling - Exterior Side
1 Fit the side panels [D], repeating the
process used in the tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Due to the size of the panel it is useful to use
panel clips to hold the panel during fitment
(see image below).
7Panelling - Floor Panels
1 Locate and fit the two floor panels [C],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel.
NOTE:
This fitment is best done with the chassis
turned upside down (see image below).
8Panelling - Tunnel Top
1 Fit the tunnel top panels [I], repeating
the process used for the tunnel.
NOTE:
The tunnel top is either provided as a single
panel or three panels. These are fitted from
the top of the tunnel (see image below). The
panel(s) may be fitted with rivets or self-
tapping screws (the latter allows for access
at a later date).

Revision 27
Chapter 2
Pedal Area and Pipes
Contents
INTRODUCTION ..............................................................1
Tools Required ................................................................1
Standard Parts ................................................................1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF PEDALS AND PIPES ....................................... 3
1Fitting –Clutch Pedal ...........................................3
2Fitting – Brake Pedal............................................3
3Fitting –Accelerator Pedal.................................... 4
4Fitting –Front Brake Pipe..................................... 5
5Fitting – Pressure Switch...................................... 6
6Fitting –Rear Circuit............................................ 6
7Fitting –Fuel Pipe ............................................... 7
INTRODUCTION
The floor mounted pedal assembly is designed to be used with two single master cylinders incorporating a brake bias bar. This allows the brake
proportioning (bias) to be adjusted from front to rear. The brake bias system requires two circuits, one for the front wheels and one for the
rear wheels. Brake bias set up is covered in chapter 14.
Tools Required
A. 10mm spanner
B. 13mm spanners x2
C. 22mm spanner
D. 5mm Drill Bit
E. 4.1mm Drill Bit
F. Needle File
G. Mini Pipe Bender
H. Copper Grease
I. Rivet Gun
J. 2.5mm Allen Key
Standard Parts
A. M8 x 70 stud x1
B. M8 x 50 Set Screw x1
C. M8 x 60 Set screw x1
D. M8 x 70 Set Screw x1
E. M8 x 30 Set Screw x4
F. M6 x 30 Set Screw x1
G. M8 Nyloc Nut x9
H. M6 Nyloc Nut x3
I. M8 Washer x6
J. M6 Washer x2
K. M10 copper washer x1

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•2
Parts Required
A. Brake Pedal & Bias Bar
B. Master Cylinders
C. Brake and Fuel Pipe Set
D. Accelerator Pedal
E. Clutch Pedal
F. Clutch Bush 31mm
G. Brake Bush 31mm
H. Accelerator Bush 21.5mm
I. Clevis Pin 6mm x 20mm
J. Split Pin 1.5 x 20mm
K. Brake Pressure Switch
L. Accelerator Trunnion
M. 3 Way brake Union
N. Clutch cable
A
c
C
B
D
E
K
M
N
L
F
G
H
I
J

2•3Pedal Area and Pipes
FITTING OF PEDALS AND PIPES
1Fitting –Clutch Pedal
1 Locate the clutch cable [N] and pedal [E]
from your parts. Trial fit the cable in its
mounting on the driver’s bulkhead. The
end with the rubber ‘donut’goes
against the bulkhead.
NOTE
The aluminium bulkhead panel may require
enlarging slightly to allow fitment.
Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the
chassis as this may damage the chassis and
prevent correct function of the clutch.
2 Place the clutch cable through the
bulkhead hole and into the pedal end.
3 Secure the cable to the pedal with a
clevis pin [I] (Fig 1.1).
1.1
4 Place a 6mm plain washer over the
clevis pin.
1.2
5 Locate the 20mm split pin [J] into the
clevis pin ensuring the washer is
between the pedal and the split pin.
6 Apply copper grease to the 31mm steel
bush [F].
7 Insert the bush into the pedal (Fig 1.2).
8 Locate 1 M8 x 70mm stud and screw an
M8 nyloc nut on to the end leaving
approximately 5 clear threads. Slide a
washer on to the stud pushing it up to
the flat side of the nut.
9 Offer up the pedal to the uppermost
hole on the clutch pedal bracket and
insert the stud.
10 Place another 8mm steel washer on the
stud.
11 Screw on 1 M8 nyloc nut, do not over
tighten, the clutch pedal should move
freely (Fig 1.3).
1.3
12 Fit the clutch pedal stop M8x65mm set
screw and rubber foot grip (Fig 1.4).
1.4
2Fitting – Brake Pedal
1 Feed the two master cylinders [B]
through the bulkhead and attach using
two M8x30mm set screws per cylinder
(Fig 2.1). An 8mm steel washer is
required on each end of the bolt. Secure
using M8 nyloc nuts.
2.1

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•4
NOTE:
Ensure that the master cylinders are
positioned as the image below. The set
screws securing the cylinders should have
nylocs on the cylinder (engine) side of the
bulkhead.
2 Fit the bias bar in to the pedal by
removing one of the clevises and sliding
it in to the tube on the pedal.
3 Refit the clevis and locking nut. For now
set it up so that the ball of the bias bar is
in the middle (Fig 2.2).
2.2
4 Apply copper grease to the 31mm brake
pedal bush.
5 Insert the bush into the pedal, as per
the clutch pedal (Fig 1.2).
6 Line the pedal assembly up to the
mounting hole in the chassis (Fig 2.3).
7 Locate an M8x60mm set screws from
your parts. Fit an M8 washer to the set
screw.
2.3
8 Secure the pedal to the chassis with the
set screw pushing it through the bush.
9 Fit an M8 washer and secure with an M8
nyloc nut.
10 Place a locking nut on the push rods and
screw the push rods into the clevis
assembly on the balance bar. It may be
necessary to remove the master
cylinder dust clip to enable the push rod
to rotate (Fig 2.4).
2.4
NOTE:
The locking nut is used to screw the
pushrods in or out of the clevises. Screw the
nut on until it locks against the shank of the
pushrod. A spanner can then be used to
rotate the push rod and thus screw it in to
the clevis.
11 Hold a straight edge against the brake
and clutch pedal rubbers, adjust the
pushrods until the brake and clutch
pedals align (Fig 2.5).
12 Tighten the lock nuts against the clevis
when they are correctly aligned.
2.5
3Fitting –Accelerator Pedal
1 Using a 5mm bit, from the inside of the
footwell, drill through the lower throttle
cable hole (Fig 3.1).
3.1
NOTE:
Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the
chassis as the cable could pull through it.
This operation is done from the engine bay
(see below).
2 Fit the accelerator cable through the
chassis from inside the engine bay and
pull the inner through so that the
trunnion [L] can be fitted.
3 Fit the trunnion into the pedal (Fig 3.2).
3.2
NOTE:
Due to varying sizes of cables it may be
necessary to enlarge the hole in the trunnion
slightly.

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•5
4 Slide the inner cable through the hole in
the trunnion and lightly tighten the 2.5
mm grub screw.
5 Attach the accelerator pedal [D] to the
chassis using M8x50mm set screw, place
a washers either side and M8 nyloc to
secure the bolt.
6 Fit the M8x 70mm throttle pedal stop to
the chassis.
NOTE:
All pedal stops and accelerator cable
position are only temporary at this stage
final adjustment will be possible when the
engine is fitted.
4Fitting –Front Brake Pipe
NOTE:
Two styles of pipe clips are used. The clip in
style are used in the engine bay and rear of
the car. P-clips and rivets are used in the
tunnel.
P clips are secured with a 4.1mm closed
rivet.
1 Position the front 3-way union to the
underside of the front chassis cross
member (Fig 4.1).
4.1
2 Secure to the chassis with a M6 nyloc
nut. 7 Nm (5 ft/lbs) maximum torque.
NOTE
The pipe runs along the round tubular
triangulation brace. Secure with four push in
‘style clips’
The pipe then runs along upper cross
member to the front 3 way union.
3 Route the long front pipe from the front
master cylinder to the middle of the
front union.
4 When shaping pipes to follow the line of
the chassis lay the pipe against the
chassis and use your thumb to bend the
pipe (Fig 4.2).
4.2
5 To secure the pipe in place use a ‘clip in
style’of pipe fixing.
6 Drill the chassis using ¼” drill in the
desired position for routing pipe (Fig
4.3).
P Clip
Clip in

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•6
4.3
7 Using a rubber mallet, gently tap the clip
into the hole and remove the brake
pipe.
NOTE
Take CARE when forming the brake pipes.
We would prefer you to practice on a piece
of scrap pipe.
Do not attempt to RE-BEND or RE-MAKE
incorrectly formed brake pipe bends as
premature failure of the brake, due to
fracture, may occur.
When a bend is required close to the brake
pipe union, a useful method is to use a
13mm spanner over the union and bending
the pipe around your thumb.
8 Route the left hand pipe from the front
union to the left hand side flexible pipe
bracket (Fig 4.4).
4.4
9 Repeat the procedure for the right hand
side.
5Fitting – Pressure Switch
NOTE:
The brake pressure switch operates the
brake lights when the brakes are applied. It
is mounted underneath the master cylinders
on a mounting bracket welded to the
chassis.
1 Place 1x10mm copper washer on to the
thread of the pressure switch.
2 Screw the brake pressure switch into
the middle of the three way brake union
applying a maximum torque of 7 N/m (5
ft/lbs) (Fig 5.1).
5.1
3 Fit the union to the chassis using an
M6x30mm set screw. and a 6mm steel
washer either side of the union.
5.2
NOTE:
When correctly fitted the copper washer
should be slightly squashed as this will seal
the union and prevent fluid loss.
6Fitting –Rear Circuit
NOTE:
The rear brake line runs through the tunnel
and requires P-clips. It is worth noting that
this method of fixing can only be done when
the pipes are routed in their final position.
1 Position the rear 3 way union on the flat
plate located to the right of the tunnel
and behind the rear bulkhead (Fig 6.1).
6.1
2 Fix the union to the M6x30mm chassis
stud with M6 nyloc nut placing a washer
either side of the union (Fig 6.2).
6.2
3 From the (rear) master cylinder, route
the small section of pipe to the nearest
part of the pressure switch union (Fig
6.3).

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•7
6.3
4 From the pressure switch union route
the pipe to the rear brake union.
Through the tunnel (Fig 6.4).
NOTE:
Fix the pipe through the tunnel using P-clips
not push in clips.
6.4
5 Place P-clips over the brake pipe to be
routed and drill the chassis with a
4.1mm drill bit in the desired position.
6 Position a 4.1mm rivet in to the hole
through the P-clip.
7 Pull the rivet up with a rivet gun to
finally secure the pipe.
8 The left and right rear brake pipes run
down the upper surface of the top
chassis rails (Fig 6.5).
6.5
9 Use ‘Push in clips’to secure placing
them at 150mm apart.
6.6
10 The final clip should be mounted 35mm
away from the upper wishbone mounts
on the top face of the chassis rail (Fig
6.6).
7Fitting –Fuel Pipe
NOTE:
The fuel pipe used measures 8mm diameter.
They are routed through the tunnel with the
rear brake line. Two hard lines required,
providing a return feed and return.
The pipes are held in place using the 8mm P-
clips. Remember that the P-clips can only be
fitted when the fuel line is in the correct
position.
To bend the fuel pipes a mini pipe bender
will be required (see below).
1 Get one of the two fuel pipes and put a
mark 100mm from one end. This is the
lower of the pipes.
2 Bend the pipe 33°, this bend is
considered the vertical plane (Fig 7.1).
3 Create a mark at 355mm and bend at
57° in the vertical plane.
4 Create a mark 470mm from the
previous one and bend at 8° towards
you in the Horizontal plane.
7.1

Pedal Area and Pipes 2•8
5 Create a mark 470mm from the
previous one and bend at 8° towards
you in the Horizontal plane.
6 Create a mark 675mm from the
previous and bend towards you at 90°
7 Bend the pipe 90° in the opposite
direction as close to the end of the
previous bend as possible. The result
should be a kink towards you of
approximately 25mm, with the pipe
traveling in the same direction as before
the previous bend (Fig 7.2).
7.2
8 Make a final mark 70mm from the end
of the previous bend.
9 Bend 90° towards you. This finishes
pipe 1 (Fig 7.3).
7.3
10 Get the other fuel pipe and put a mark
80mm from one end and bend at 33°
this is the vertical plane.
11 Put a mark 340mm from the previous
and bend in the same plane and
direction at 57°.
12 Put a mark 460mm from the previous
and bend at 8° in the horizontal plane
towards you.
13 Put a mark 680mm and bend 90°
towards you.
14 Bend the pipe 90° in the opposite
direction as close to the end of the
previous bend as possible. The result
should be a kink towards you of
approximately 25mm, with the pipe
traveling in the same direction as before
the previous bend.
15 Put a mark at 100mm and bend at 90°
towards you. This finishes pipe 2.
16 Position both fuel pipes in their correct
location, tape can be used as a
temporary fixing while holes are being
drilled.
17 Place an 8mm P-clip over the fuel pipe
and position as required (Fig 7.4).
7.4
18 Drill the chassis using a 4.1mm drill bit.
19 Position a 4.1mm rivet in position and
pull up using a rivet gun (Fig 7.5).
7.5
20 Repeat the process until the pipes are
secured.

Revision 94
Chapter 3
Wiring Loom
Contents
INTRODUCTION ..............................................................1
Tools Required ................................................................1
Standard Parts ................................................................1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF WIRING LOOM.............................................. 6
Loom Fixing Method .....................................................6
1Positioning- Tunnel Saddles..................................6
2Positioning- Front Loom saddles............................6
3Positioning- Rear Loom saddles. ........................... 7
4Fitting-Fuse Box .................................................. 7
5Fitting-Rear Loom ............................................... 7
6Fitting-Engine Loom ............................................ 8
7Fitting-Dash & Instruments .................................. 9
8Fitting-Digital Dash............................................ 10
9Fitting-Battery Cables ........................................ 10
INTRODUCTION
When routing the wiring loom care must be taken not to route it in such a way that damage from sharp edges or heat may occur. The loom
saddle positioning and spacing must be so the cabling is secure and not loosely fitting around the engine bay or tunnel area. Around the
chassis, saddle spacing should be approximately 100mm-150mm. In the tunnel sections spacing should be 150mm but again as the loom exits
the rear of the tunnel spacing distance must be reduced so the loom is fitted securely.
Please note Westfield Sportscars accept no responsibility for damage caused by modification to supplied STD looms. Modifications to wiring
looms are done at the customer’s discretion and alteration of supplied Westfield parts voids any warranty associated with the product.
Before you start remove the loom from its packaging (taking care not to lose the connectors supplied). The fuse box comes pre-wired. Care
should be taken not to disconnect any wires from the fuse box before marking their position. The best way to do this is mark the terminals
using a permanent marker, then put masking tape around the fuse box and mark the terminal positions.
Two different instrument looms exist depending on whether you have an Analog or Digital dash.
Tools Required
A. Pop Rivet Gun
B. 4.1mm and 7mm Drill Bit
C. Pliers
D. 13mm Spanner
E. Rivsert Tool
F. Possi Driver
G. 3mm Allen Key
Standard Parts
A. M5 x 25mm Dome Headed x2
B. M5 x 16mm Dome Headed x5
C. M5 Rivserts x5
D. M4 x 20mm Dome Head x3