Yard Craft 7x7 Edgemont Garden Shed User manual

7x7 Edgemont Garden Shed
Assembly Instructions
866-210-9273
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Thank you for the purchase of this Edgemont Garden Shed. This manual is designed to simplify the as-
sembly process; however we recommend having an experienced carpenter involved in the project. Please
read through the entire manual before starting!
The building put together for this manual was a 7’x7’ Edgemont Garden Shed. It took 2 men approxi-
mately 4 hours using the tools shown. However; it may take you longer, since it will probably be a new pro-
ject for you.
Take a deep breath and get at it; the satisfaction and enjoyment of this building awaits! Have Fun!
You have purchased a product that consists of heavy, bulky pieces. With your purchase, you assume
full responsibility to have the necessary manpower and/or equipment to unload the items. You also
agree that any damage that happens to the equipment, product, or individuals during the entire con-
struction process, is your responsibility, and neither the seller, nor the manufacturer, will be held liable
for any such damage.
In addition to the materials provided you will need approximately 3 bundles of shingles, 1/2 bundle
cappers, 2 gallons of paint for the siding, 2 quarts paint for the trim, and one tube of caulk.
Tools Required For Job
-Hammer
-Screw Gun
-Tape Measure
-Tin Snips
-Carpenter Square
-(2) Step Ladders
-5/32 Allen Wrench
-Carpenter Pencil
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Shed Pad Preparation
Site Preparation
The best thing you can do to contribute to the longevity of your new building is to install
a quality pad. We recommend a minimum of a 6-12″ crushed stone base at least 2′ lar-
ger than your building in both directions. Crushed stone allows for drainage should any
moisture get underneath your shed.
Drainage is of utmost importance as the greatest enemy to any shed is moisture. If you
look at older sheds around your neighborhood you will notice that many of them are
beginning to rot around the bottom of the structure. This is because most if not all of
those sheds do not have a prepared base underneath them. As rain falls from the edge
of the roof it deflects off of the ground and splashes onto the sidewalls of the shed.
Over the years this will cause the doors and lower siding of these sheds to rot. Using
stone as a base the water is able to be absorbed into the ground instead of splashing
against your building.
IMPORTANT: Pad needs to be level for a more efficient building process!

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(1) Place the package as close to
the assembly location as possible.
(3) Remove and organize parts
from package.
(2) Cut package bands.
Unpack The Kit
(7) After all the walls are set, per-
manently anchor the walls, first; pre
-drilling the holes, using a 1/2” con-
crete bit, (Not provided) then,
move to next step.
(8) Fasten the walls to the founda-
tion, using 1/2” x 7” galvanized
wedge anchors, (Not provided) and
space them every 4 to 6 feet, or ac-
cording to local code requirements.
(9) Ask your local hardware de-
partment for any additional info on
how to properly install the anchor-
ing system, or refer to the video at
www.youtube.com/watch?
v=3JI_9ggbmcY
(4) Locate and lay out the pressure
treated 2x4 Sill Plates, cutting
them to length as needed.
NOTE: Perimeter needs to be
square, and exactly 7’x7’
Steps 5 to 9 are for concrete
foundations only.
(5) Fasten the sill sealer (Not pro-
vided) to the bottom of the sill
plate. (You will need approxi-
mately 30 feet)
(6) After making sure the sill
plates are in the proper position,
pre-drill holes, then fasten to the
foundation, using 3” Tapcon
screws, (Not provided)
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If You Got A Floor With This Unit,
(Skip Steps 4-9)

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(10) Locate the parts to assemble
the floor joists.
(12) Remove and organize them
for easy access.
(11) Locate the hardware & fasten-
ers.
Assemble Floor
(16) Continue this method for rest
of floor joists, using two 3” screws
per joist. *Holes are predrilled*
(17) Before proceeding with floor-
ing, ensure that floor is square.
Both measurements need to be
equal.
(18) If measurements are not
equal, move the ends of the band
board left or right, accordingly.
(13) After making sure the pad is
level, locate the parts to assemble
the floor joists, and scatter them
out as shown.
(14) Note: The band boards have
dado grooves precut to ensure
proper joist placement.
(15) Begin with the end joist, mak-
ing sure the band board is flush
with the joist.
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(19) Layout the flooring. (21) Attach the corner of the floor-
ing, using 2” nails.
(20) Start on the front right corner
with the first piece, making sure
flooring is flush with perimeter.
NOTE: Both pieces of flooring are
41-7/8”x84”
Install Flooring
(25) Repeat previous steps for back
piece, using an 8” to 12” nail spac-
ing, and ensuring all flooring is ei-
ther flush or parallel with the floor
joists.
(26) Finally, make sure flooring is
nailed to all floor joists, then you
are ready for wall placement.
(27) Ready for walls! Refer to next
step.
(22) Nail along the gable, making
sure flooring is flush with the floor
joist. Use an 8” to 12” nail spac-
ing.
(23) Now; nail front left corner,
again; making sure flooring is
flush with the band board.
(24) Before you finish attaching
the first row flooring to the joist,
make marks 12” on center for a
guide to adjust the joist when nail-
ing.
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(29) Use the dadoed 2x4’s for top
& bottom plate. The 2x4 plate on
the right; with dado’s on both the
top & bottom, is for the top plate.
(30) Insert two 3” screws through
the pre-drilled holes to attach bot-
tom plate to each wall stud. Make
sure bottom plate and wall studs
are flush.
(28) Locate and lay out the parts to
assemble the left wall.
Note: (Dados are 21” on center)
Assemble Walls
(36) Place the bottom of this piece
in the correct position, again; mak-
ing sure the splice looks similar to
the other grooves. Then fasten the
corner.
(31) Repeat the process for the rest
of the wall studs; then lay out the
siding as shown, with factory
edges; overlap/underlap towards
the center.
(32) Starting on the top side of the
wall, align siding with both the
dado top plate & wall stud as
shown, then fasten with one 2”
nail.
(33) Next; move along the top, to
the corner of the piece shown, fas-
ten with 1 nail, then finish nailing
along the top of this piece, using
an 8” to 12” nail spacing, before
moving to next step.
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(35) Put the next piece in place,
flush with the previous piece, mak-
ing sure the splice looks similar to
the other grooves. Then fasten this
corner of the siding, and along the
entire top plate.
(34) Now; align the bottom corner
of the siding with bottom corner of
wall as shown, before fastening.

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(37) Now; using 2” nails, fasten
along the bottom and along all
splices and studs, making sure you
mark the position of the studs (21”
on center) before nailing, using an
8” to 12” nail spacing.
(39) CORRECT! Wall needs to
be flush, and in against the floor
frame, and down against the floor-
ing.
(38) Set the wall, making sure
edges of wall are flush with edges
of floor. Note: It is VERY im-
portant that a person holds the
wall in place until wall is at-
tached firmly to floor, or braced.
(43) Now; locate and lay out the
parts to assemble the right wall, us-
ing the previous steps.
(44) Locate and lay out the parts to
assemble the rear gable wall, attach
all wall studs to top and bottom
wall plate, then set the gable wall as
shown.
(45) Place a precut block in the
rear gable corner, first making sure
it is flush.
(40) Attach entire bottom edge of
siding to floor, using an 8” to 12”
nail spacing.
(41) Fasten to floor, using two 3”
screws at every stud, trying to hit
the floor joists. Repeat the process
for the rest of the wall.
(42) IMPORTANT: Do not leave
the wall standing alone for a long
period of time, without firmly
bracing it.
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(46) Then; after making sure the
rear gable wall is flush with the
side wall, finish fastening the pre-
cut block as shown, using 3”
screws.
(48) Now; locate and lay out the
parts to assemble the front wall.
(47) Repeat on opposite corner.
(52) Be sure to fasten the precut
blocks on both sides, as done in
previous steps for rear gable.
(53) After walls are all fastened,
locate the 39-1/4” long 2x4, place it
under the door top plate as shown
here, and fasten with six 3” screws.
(54) Done!
(49) Place the door studs as shown,
making sure to have the notch for
the door latch facing down, and on
the left door jack as shown.
(50) Attach door jack studs to top
and bottom wall plate.
(51) Set the front gable wall, and
fasten to floor and side walls as
done in previous steps, and making
sure to space the bottom of the
door opening the same as the top,
which should be 39-1/4”
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(55) Align the rafters as shown,
then move to next step.
(57) Note: Two rafters will be as-
sembled using only one rafter gus-
set per rafter, the remaining rafters
will be assembled using two rafter
gussets.
(56) Place the gusset on the rafters,
making sure it is flush with rafter
edges as shown. Then fasten gus-
set to rafters, using a total of ten 2”
nails per gusset.
(61) Install rest of rafters, using
the previous steps & being sure to
place rafters in the precut dado on
the top plate, as shown.
(62) After installing all the rafters,
run a 3” screw into the rafter from
inside, as shown. Repeat for every
rafter.
(63) Finished with rafters & ready
for next step!
(58) After assembling rafters,
place them against a wall inside
the shed for convenient access.
(59) Begin with end rafter keeping
single gusset facing to interior of
shed as shown.
Important: One person needs to
hold the rafter while another
person fastens it.
(60) Make sure end rafter is down
against top plate, and in against the
siding, then screw rafter to top
wall plate, by running a 4” screw
down through the rafter. Repeat
for other end of rafter, then repeat
these steps for opposite gable.
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Assemble Rafters
Install Rafters

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(64) Place soffit under rafters, be-
ing sure to align the soffit with end
of wall and flush with rafter as
shown, then fasten using one 2”
screws per rafter.
(66) Now; place the gable siding
against the back gable as shown, (1
left & 1 right)
(65) Fasten soffit to rest of rafters,
making sure it is aligned with the
ends of rafters. Repeat for other
side.
(70) Fasten 2x4 gable brace to raf-
ter as shown, using 3” screws &
angled into rafter.
(71) Next, position the vertical 2x4
over the siding splice.
(72) Toe screw 2x4 on top & bot-
tom, using 3” screws.
(67) Install the siding with the un-
der-lap (right side) first, making
sure it is aligned with the wall
frame on the right, and placed 2”
up from bottom of floor joists.
NOTE: Fasten on bottom right
corner first, then move to left
side as shown.
(68) Next, fasten the top right cor-
ner of the siding, again; making
sure it is flush with the wall frame
as shown. Repeat with left piece,
making sure to space the center
overlap/ under-lap splice correctly.
(69) Fasten all siding securely to
wall studs & top & bottom plate,
& marking the siding where neces-
sary.
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Install Soffit & Gable Siding

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(73) Caulk along the top of the in-
stalled siding, then fasten this top
piece of siding & finish nailing
along all the splices & gable
braces.
(75) Next, position the 2x4 gable
brace, and fasten to both the rafter
& top plate.
(74) Layout the siding for the
front.
(79) Ensure that the door opening
is square.
(80) Both measurements need to be
equal. If not; push the top of the
wall left or right as needed, then
finish fastening the siding on the
left.
(81) Place the center piece flush
with the top of the door, & spaced
correctly at the splice on the left,
then fasten securely with 2” nails.
(76) Repeat on opposite side. (77) Starting with the left piece,
place the siding flush with the door
opening, and 2” up from bottom of
floor joists, then fasten corner with
one 2” nail.
(78) Now; fasten the siding at the
top corner , making sure it is flush
with the door opening, as done on
the bottom. Now; before nailing
the rest of the piece, refer to next
step.
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(82) For the piece of siding on the
right side of the door, place it
against the center piece above the
door, then refer to next step.
(84) Keep siding 2” up from the
bottom of the floor joists.
(83) Note: Position siding the
same on the bottom of the door as
the top.
(88) Starting with the right corner,
align roof sheathing with the bot-
tom & outside edge of rafter as
shown here, then attach, using a 2”
nail.
(89) Now; fasten the sheathing on
the left corner, again; making sure
it’s flush with the bottom & outside
edge of rafter.
(90) Important! Nail sheathing to
every rafter along the bottom, be-
fore moving to next step!
(85) Finish nailing the rest of this
piece, as well as double check all
other siding to ensure proper nail-
ing on every stud ect..
(86) Fasten the provided blocks to
each corner as shown, making sure
to place the block flush with the
end of the rafter, and even with
bottom of soffit.
(87) Ready to install sheathing!
Locate and layout the sheathing on
both sides, as shown here.
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Install Roof Sheathing

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(91) Adjust gable rafter, to be par-
allel with the roof sheathing, then
fasten, using 2” nails spaced 8 to
12 inches apart.
(93) Make marks 21” on center for
guidance on rafter placement.
Then, fasten sheathing to all raf-
ters, using an 8” to 12” nail spac-
ing.
(92) Repeat for opposite end.
(97) Position the gable fascia, then
refer to next step.
(98) Align the fascia with the rafter
and sheathing as shown, then fasten
with one 2” trim nail.
(99) Repeat on opposite side, then
move to peak as shown here, and
align the fascia in the peak as
needed. Fasten securely, then re-
peat these steps for other gable.
(94) Repeat previous steps for the
back side.
Note: If the marks on the
sheathing do not align properly
with the rafters, you will need to
lift a corner of the building, to
adjust it.
(95) Now; put the top pieces of
sheathing in place, and fasten them
securely.
Now we are ready for fascia!
(96) Layout the gable fascia pieces
as shown (1-left & 1-right)
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Install Trim

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(100) Fasten a bird box block to
the corner, using three 2” Trim
nails.
(102) Lay out the corner trim for
each corner.
(101) Repeat for the other three
corners.
(106) Done! Repeat these steps for
the fascia on the back side.
(107) Install right side door trim,
staying 1/2” to the right of the door
frame, and flush with the top of the
door frame.
(108) Now; install left side door
trim, staying flush with the top of
the door frame.
NOTE: Trim spacing needs to be
40-1/2” (inside to inside) as shown
in next step.
(103) Attach corner trim to side
wall, making sure it is flush with
the gable wall as shown, using 2”
trim nails spaced 8-12” apart,
along edge of trim.
(104) Install the other corner piece
as shown. Repeat for rest of cor-
ners.
(105) Fasten fascia to rafters, using
two 2” trim nails per rafter, and
making sure fascia is flush with
the top of the rafters, and with the
gable fascia.
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(109) Be sure to check the trim
spacing, which should be 40-1/2”
Also check the spacing for the
middle & bottom.
(111) Install 1x4x39-1/4” door
slam strip under the door header,
keeping it flush with the outside of
the door frame.
(110) Last of all, fasten the top
piece, making sure you divide it
out evenly across the top.
(115) Install latch using 2” black
screws.
(116) Attach L-handle on the inside
of door as shown, using a 5/32
Allan Wrench. Adjust as needed.
(117) Make a mark on top of door,
12” in from hinge side.
(112) Find the hardware bag and
locate the following.
(113) Fasten door hinge to trim,
using 2” black screws, and making
sure to keep top of door approxi-
mately 1/4” down from trim &
against the trim on the right.
(114) Fasten the other hinges,
keeping door against the trim on
the right side.
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Install Doors

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(118) Now; make another mark on
the inside of the door header,
again; 12” in from hinge side.
(120) Fasten the other section of
the spring to the header of the
door, using two 2” black screws.
(119) Install the door spring to the
door, using two 2” black screws.
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