A.j.s. 16ms User manual

INSTRUCTION BOOK

•

1956

SINGLE CYLINDER

MODELS

500c.c.

18S

350 c.c.

16MS

Issued by:

A.J.S. MOTOR CYCLES • LONDON S.E.18

Proprietors : ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LTD.

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INSTRUCTION BOOK

Price

TWO SHILLINGS and SIXPENCE

Factories:

BURRAGE GROVE and MAXEY ROAD

PLUMSTEAD, S.E.18

Telephone: )sen i l7(3221WOOlwich

Telegrams: "ICANHOPIT, WOL-LONDON"

Cables: "ICANHOPIT, LONDON"

Codes: A.B.C. 5th and 6th Edition; Bentley's; and Private Codes

Registered Offices:

PLUMSTEAD ROAD, PLUMSTEAD

LONDON, S.E.18 .. ENGLAND

Issued by:

A.J.S. MOTOR CYCLES • LONDON S.E.18

Proprietors: ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LTD.

A•J•S

350 c.c. SINGLE CYLINDER MODELS 500 c.c.

1956

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Carburetter

Controls

Data

Driving

Electrical Equipment

Engine

Forks and Frame

Free Service

Guarantee

Index

Information

Lubrication

Maintenance

Repairs and Service

Spare Parts

Tools and Special Equipment

Transmission

Wheels and Brakes

Page

CONTENTS

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A.V.C. unit

Battery

Brake adjustment, front

Brake adjustment, rear

Brake anchorage, rear

Brake pedal adjustment

Brake shoe adjustment

Carburetter

Clutch

Controls

Dynamo Removal

Engine lubrication

Flywheels

Fork exploded view

Fork damper details

Front chain adjustment

Gearbox

Gear lever positions

Headlamp

Hub bearing details, front

Hub bearing details, rear (Standard)

Hub bearing details, rear (Trials)

Hub, rear and front

Lubrication chart

Oil tank

Oil pump

Sparking plug

Spring frame

Spring frame, Teledraulic leg

Tank fixing details

Tappet adjustment

Tools

Valve lubrication

Valve spring compressor

Valve timing

Wire connector, snap type

Wiring diagram

Illustrations

Page

ILLUSTRATIONS

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SINGLECYLINDERMODELS

350 c.c. Model 16MS

500 c.c. Model 18S

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HE MODERN MOTOR CYCLE unquestionably provides one of the

most healthy, economical and pleasant means of transport. In

addition by reason of its superb braking, high power to weight ratio and

ease ofcontrol it is, ifused with due care, one of the safest vehicles on the

road.

It is our sincere desire that every owner should obtain from his mount

the service, comfort and innumerable miles of low cost travel that we have

earnestly endeavoured to build into it.

It must be borne in mind however, that although of simple design and

construction, it is nevertheless a highly specialised piece of engineering

and must in consequence be intelligently and efficiently maintained in

order to provide unfailing reliability.

In this book we provide non-technical instructions for carrying out all the

maintenance operations likely to be called for in normal service, together

with assisting illustrations.

To owners of long experience we tender apologies for the elementary

nature of some of the contents of this handbook, but owners whether

novice or expert are advised to read the contents from beginning to end.

We are at all times pleased to give owners the full benefit of our wide

experience in matters relating to motor cycles of our manufacture and

elsewhere will be found details of the particulars required when making

enquiries of our Service Department.

Safety on the Road

N the interest of Safety on the Road a few words of warning will not

be out of place.

The outstanding manoeuverability of a motor cycle over all other vehicles

on the road makes it necessary to exercise caution at all times.

There are unfortunately a few motor-cyclists whose reckless driving

constitutes a menace not only to themselves but also to other road users

resulting in the totally false impression in some quarters that motorcycling

is a dangerous pastime.

Take a pride in your riding technique and never rely upon the other fellow

doing the right thing.

Your example of careful, courteous and unobtrusive riding will materially

contribute to road safety and to the reputation of a fine sporting pastime.

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DATA

Capacities

Location

Engine …

Engine'…

Gear box

…

Front fork (each side)

Rear leg (each leg)

…

Rear wheel fork hinge bearing

…

Fuel Tank (all except Competition)

Fuel tank (Competition) …

Oil tank (to top level mark) …

…

350

500

…

c.c.

…

British

21·170 cub. in.

30·380 cub. in.

1 pint

6½

fl.

ozs.

3 fl. ozs.

1½

fl.

ozs.

3¾ gallons

2 gallons

5 pints

Metric

347 c.c.

498 c.c

568·2 c.c.

184·6 c.c.

85 c.c.

426 c.c.

17·04 litres

9 litres

2·8 litres

Ignition (magneto)

Engine Number

Frame Number

Bore…

Stroke

…

… … … … … Stamped on left hand side of crankcase

Stamped on seat lug of main frame, on right hand side (below the saddle)

Engine capacity, in cubic centimetres

…

350 c.c. Models—2·7187 in. ( 2Fin.)

500 c.c. Model—3·250 in. (3¼ in.)

All Models—93 mm. (3·65625 in.)

350 Models—347

500 Model—498

Carburetter, Touring and Trials Models

Type

Main jet

Pilot jet

…

Throttle valve

Choke size

Needleposition

Needle jet

…

350 c.c.

Monobloc 376/5

376/100 size 210

376/076 size 30

376/060 size 3

1·z"

Central notch

376/072 size ·1065

500 c.c.

Monobloc 389/1

376/100 size 260

376/076 size 30

389/060 size3

1 ·E"

Central notch

376/072 size ·1065

Compression ratios

Model

350

500

Normal

ratio

7·5 to 1

7·3 to 1

Low

ratio

According to piston.

See Spares List for

ratios available.

Gear box ratios

Model

Touring

Trials ……

……

…

First gear

2·65 to 1

3·199 to 1

Second gear

1·70 to 1

2·437 to 1

Third gear

1·308 to 1

1·575 to 1

Fourth gear (top)

1 to 1

Model Make

Touring 350 c.c. Lucas

Touring 500 c.c. Lucas

Trials Lucas

Type

SR-1

Racing

Rotation

Anti-clock

Point gap

·012 in.

Ignition point before top

dead centre (with control

in fully advanced position)

Normal 39°—½"

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Engine sprocket size

15 teeth

16 teeth

17 teeth

(a) 18 teeth

19 teeth

20 teeth

(b) 21 teeth

First gear

18·55 to 1

17·32 to 1

16·32 to 1

15·44 to 1

14·55 to 1

13·91 to 1

13·25 to 1

Second gear

11·90 to

11·15 to 1

10·47 to 1

9·90 to 1

9·33 to 1

8·91 to 1

8·50 to 1

Third gear

9·15 to 1

8·58 to 1

8·05 to 1

7·63 to 1

7·18 to

6·86 to 1

6·54 to 1

Fourth gear

(top)

7 to

6·56 to 1

6·16 to

5·83 to 1

5·49 to 1

5·25 to 1

5·0 to 1

Gear ratios, Touring Models

(a) Standard for 350 c.c Touring Models (b) Standard for 500 c.c. Touring Models.

Gear ratios, Trials Model

Engine sprocket size

15 teeth

16 teeth Standard

17 teeth

18 teeth

19 teeth

20 teeth

21 teeth

First gear

22·4 to 1

21·0 to

19·7 to

18·68 to 1

17·57 to 1

16·8 to

16·0 to

Second gear

17·25 to 1

15·98 to 1

15·0 to 1

14·2 to 1

13·38 to 1

12·8 to

12·18 to

Third gear

11·03 to

10·33 to 1

9·7 to

9·2 to

8·65 to 1

8·37 to 1

7·81 to 1

Fourth gear

(top)

7 to

6·56 to 1

6·16 to 1

5·83 to 1

5·49 to 1

5·25 to 1

5·0 to 1

Lighting (bulbs)

Location

Head lamp (Pre-focus)

Pilot lamps

Rear lamp

Speedometer

Type

Double filament

Single contact

Double filament

Single contact

Voltage

Wattage

30X24

18 & 3

1·8

Part

number

312

988

352

53205

Oversize parts

The following are the only " oversize " variations provided for the 350 and 500 c.c. Single Cylinder machines

Big-end rollers : Cylinder re-bore : Pistons and rings : ezisrevo.ni040·dna.ni020·ezisrevo.ni040·dna.ni020·ezisrevo.ni100·

Pistons (standard Size)

All measurements are subject to a toleration limit of + or — ·0005 in.

Model

350

500

Top of skirt diameter

2·7176 in.

3·2490 in.

Front to rear clearance

·001 in.

Part number

013504

013505

Piston ring gap

Normal

Permissible maximum

Piston ring clearance in groove

·006 in.

·030 in.

·002 in.

Sparking Plug

Model

All Make

K.L.G. Type

FE80

Thread

mm.

Reach

in.

Point gap

·020 to ·022 in.

Valve timing (SeeIllustration 10)

All timing gears are marked for ease of setting. With Marks coinciding correct timing is assured.

Valve Guide Projection (Top of Guide to Boss)

inlet—½" Exhaust—½"

Valve timing pinion

Retained by nut, threaded vin. by 26 threads per in. Left hand thread. Part number 000221.

C—S

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Wheels (bearing end play) 002 in. (just a perceptible rim rock).

THROTTLE TWIST GRIP

AIR CONTROL

EXHAUST VALVE LIFTER

LEVER

CLUTCH LEVER

FRONT BRAKE LEVER

REAR BRAKE PEDAL

GEAR CHANGE LEVER

KICK-STARTER PEDAL

LAMP CONTROL SWITCH

AMMETER

HORN BUTTON

GEAR BOX FILLER CAP

RIDER'S FOOTREST

PETROL TANK FILLER CAP

OIL TANK FILLER CAP

HEADLAMP DIP SWITCH

DUMMY GRIP

SPEEDOMETER, MILES PER

HOUR DIAL

SPEEDOMETER, TOTAL

MILEAGE

SPEEDOMETER, TRIP

MILEAGE

SPEEDOMETER, TRIP

RECORDER RESET KNOB

GEAR POSITION

INDICATOR

PILLION FOOTRESTS;

FORK TOP BOLT

(Remove to add oil)

Illustration 1

Controls

Weight

Model with empty tanks

350

500

Standard

375 Ibs.

386 Ibs.

Trials

320 Ibs.

—

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CONTROLS

(1) Throttle twist grip. On right handlebar. Twist inwards to open. When

fully closed engine should Just idle when hot.

(2) Air. Small lever on right handlebar. Pull inwards to increase air supply

to carburetter. Once set, when engine has warmed up, requires no alteration

for different road speeds. Should be fully closed when starting engine from cold.

(3) Ignition. When fitted, Small lever on left handlebar. Advances and retards

ignition point. Pull inwards to retard. Retard two-fifths of total movement for

starting. (Only used on Competition Models).

(4) Valve lifter. Small lever close to clutch lever. Lifts exhaust valve from seat,

releasing compression in combustion chamber, enabling engine to be easily

rotated for starting. Also used for stopping engine If throttle stop Is set as

advised above.

(5) Clutch. Large lever on left handlebar. Grip to release clutch so that drive

to rear wheel is disconnected.

(6) Front brake. Large lever on right handlebar. Grip to operate front wheel

brake and, for normal braking, use in conjunction with rear brake application.

(7) Rear brake. Pedal close to left side foot rest. Depress with left foot to apply

rear brake. Apply gently and use increasing pressure as the road speed decreases.

(8) Gear change. Pedal In horizontal position close to right foot rest. Controls

selection of the four speeds, or ratios, between engine and rear wheel revolutions,

with a " free," or neutral, position. See illustration 2.

(9) Kick-starter. Vertical pedal on right hand side of gear box.

(10) Lighting switch. In top of head lamp. Controls lamps by a rotating lever which

has three positions :

(1) " OFF " Lamps not on.

(2) " L " Pilot lamps, rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.

(3) " H " Main head lamp, rear lamp and speedometer lamp on.

(11) Ammeter. In top of head lamp. Indicates flow of electric current, in, or out,

of battery. (" Charge " or " Discharge.")

(12) Horn switch. Press switch on left handlebar.

(13) Gear box filler cap. Located on top edge of kick-starter case cover. Allows

Insertion of lubricant and access to clutch inner wire and internal clutch operating

lever.

(14) Footrest for rider.

(15) Petrol tank filler cap. Located in top of fuel tank. To release, slightly depress,

turn fully to the left, and then lift away. There are two locking positions. The

middle position, between the fully tightened down and " lift away " positions,

is in the nature of a " safety " device to prevent loss that might be occasioned by

unauthorised meddling.

(16) Oil tank filler cap. Located on top edge of oil tank. To remove unscrew.

(17) Dipping switch. Trigger switch on left handlebar. Used to select normal or

" dipped " beam of head lamp when main lighting switch lever is in the " H "

position. (The main head lamp bulb has two filaments.)

Refer to Illustration 1 page 8.

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DRIVING

Although various quality fuels are again available owners are advised to use only the

best. The small economy that might be considered to accrue by using the cheaper

grades is more than offset by the advantages obtained by using only Number One

Grades.

FUEL

FUEL SUPPLY

Two fuel feed taps are situated underneath the rear end of the petrol tank. (One each

side.) Both must be shut off when the machine is left standing for more than a few

minutes.

STARTING THE ENGINE FROM COLD

(a) Check that there is sufficient fuel in the petrol tank.

(b) Check that there is sufficient oil in the oil tank.

(d) Pull outward the plunger of off-side petrol tap.

(e) Check that the air control lever is in the fully closed position.

(f) Open the throttle not more than one-sixth of the total movement of the twist grip.

(g) Depress the plunger on the top of the carburetter float chamber until It can be

felt the chamber is full of petrol.

(h) Raise the valve lifter lever and, while keeping it raised, turn over the engine several

times by depressing the kick-starter pedal, three times, the object being to fret

the engine. (This only applies if the engine is cold.)

(i) Depress the kick-starter until compression is felt, then raise the valve lifter lever

and ease the engine just over compression. Then, after allowing the kick-starter

pedal to return nearly to its normal position, give it a long swinging kick with the

valve closed. Flywheel momentum will carry over compression and the engine

should fire immediately. If it fails to do so repeat exactly the same process.

Do not allow kick starter to return violently against its stop.

The kick-starter mechanism must be allowed to engage properly before putting heavy

pressure on the kick-starter crank pedal pin. That means there are two definite

and separate movements when operating the mechanism by depressing the crank.

The first is a slow and gentle movement which ends when it is felt the quadrant has

engaged with the teeth on the ratchet pinion.

The tap plungers work horizontally. To open, pull plunger out. Push right in to close.

Normally, only use the tap on the right hand side of the machine and then the other

side will act as a reserve supply. Always re-fuel as soon as possible after being forced

to call upon the reserve and then, at once, close the " reserve " tap.

It will be noted that, by fitting two petrol feed taps. It is possible to remove the petrol

tank from the machine without the necessity of first draining It of fuel.

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Illustration 2

Showing the gear indi-

cator drum which upon

assembly is set to record

the various gears and

neutral position, as the

respective figure or letter

N registers with index

markonthe gearboxshell.

Upon re-asembly, after

dismantling for any pur-

pose, the index disc should

be correctly re-set for

future reference.

The first slow and gentle movement is essential to avoid damage to the teeth of the

kick-starter quadrant.

After the engine has started, slowly open the air lever until it runs evenly. Then set

the throttle so that the engine is running at a moderate speed (neither racing nor ticking

ever) and allow to warm up. While doing this, check the oil circulation as detailed In

page 13. The machine can then be taken on the road.

NOTE—Do not race up the engine from cold and do not flood the carburetter to such

an extent that petrol is dripping because then, in the event of a backfire, there

is a danger of such loose petrol igniting. This cannot possibly happen if the

starting Instructions are carefully followed, but, in the event of a fire, there Is

no cause for panic. Merely turn off the petrol tap to isolate the main supply,

open wide the throttle and turn over the engine by operating the kick-starter

pedal when suction will extinguish the fire.

STOPPING THE ENGINE

To stop the engine, close the throttle, raise the valve lifter lever and keep ft raised

until the engine has ceased to revolve.

ON THE ROAD

Having started and warmed up the engine, take the machine off the stand, sit astride it,

free the clutch by pulling up the large lever on the left bar and engage the lowest gear.

Next, slowly release the clutch lever and the machine will commence to move forward.

As it does this, the engine speed will tend to drop as it picks up the load so it will be

necessary to increase the throttle opening, gradually, to keep the engine speed gently

rising.

When well under way, disengage the clutch, slightly close the throttle, engage second

gear and release the clutch lever, then open up the throttle to increase the speed of

the machine. Repeat these operations in order to engage third and top gears.

To engage a higher gear the pedal is pressed downward with the toe and a lower gear Is

obtained by raising the pedal with the instep. To engage first gear from the neutral

position, the pedal is therefore raised. After each pedal movement, internal springs

return the pedal to its normal horizontal position.

The pedal must be moved to the full extent of its travel when selecting a gear, either

up or down. It must not be "stamped down " or jabbed, but firmly and decisively

moved till it stops. A half-hearted movement may not give full engagement. Keep

the foot off the pedal when driving and between each gear change because, unless the

lever can freely return to its normal central position, the next gear cannot be engaged.

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Important

Never drive away at high speed when starting a run with a cold engine. Give the oil a

chance to warm up and thin out, particularly when the machine is cold. Until the oil

reaches its normal running temperature the circulation is restricted. Seizures can be

avoided by taking this simple essential precaution.

Before leaving the machine, turn off the fuel supply.

STOPPING THE MACHINE

To stop the machine, close the throttle, declutch by lifting the large lever on the left

handlebar, and gently apply both brakes, increasing the pressure on them as the road

speed of the machine decreases. Place the gear change foot pedal in the neutral position

and stop the engine.

RUNNING IN

Although it is customary to quote permitted maximum speeds on the various gears

during the period of running in, these are really no guide to overdriving, the only essential

thing to avoid being the use of large throttle opening.

If the precaution is taken of limiting the use of the throttle to about one-third of Its

opening during the first 1,000 miles, irrespective of the road speed, and whether on the

level or climbing, the necessary conditions for running in will have been observed.

Special attention must be given, during the running in period, to such details as valve

rocker adjustment, chains, brakes, contact breaker points, and steering head bearings,

all of which tend to bed down in the first hundred miles or so. Particular note must be

made of the adjustment of steering head bearings, which, if run in a slack condition, will

be quickly ruined. After this bedding down process has taken place, adjustments to

such details will only be necessary at lengthy intervals.

After about 1,000 miles have been covered larger throttle openings may be gradually

indulged in for short bursts only.

Until at least 2,000 miles have been covered the owner of a new machine is strongly

advised to curb his natural desire to learn the mount's maximum capabilities. Restraint

in this direction will be amply repaid later.

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If, at first, the lowest gear will not engage, release the clutch lever and after a second or

two, make another attempt. This condition may exist in a new machine, but it tends to

disappear after a little use.

Always endeavour to make the movements of hand (on the clutch) and foot (on the gear

pedal) as simultaneous as possible, and remember, in all gear changes, a steady pressure

of the foot is desirable. This pressure should be maintained until the clutch is fully

released. It is not sufficient just to jab the foot pedal and then release the clutch lever.

When actually in motion, it will be found sufficient to merely free the clutch a trifle,

to ease the drive when changing gear and, with reasonable care, changes of gear then

can be made without a sound.

Do not unnecessarily race the engine or let in the clutch sufficiently suddenly to cause

the rear wheel to spin. Take a pride in making a smooth, silent get-away.

When changing up to a higher gear, as the clutch is freed, the throttle should be slightly

closed so that the engine speed is reduced to keep in step with the higher gear ratio.

Conversely, when changing down to a lower gear, the throttle should be regulated so

that the engine speed is increased to keep in step with the lower gear ratio.

Do not slip the clutch to control the road speed.

The clutch is intended to be used only when starting from a standstill and when changing

gear. It must NOT be operated to ease the engine, instead of changing gear, or be held

out, in order to " free-wheel."

The exhaust valve lifter is NOT used in normal driving on main and secondary roads.

When travelling slowly, such as may occur in traffic or on a hill, and the engine commences

to labour, it is then necessary to change to a lower gear. Engine " knocking " or

" pinking " and a harshness in the transmission are symptoms of such labour. A good

driver is able to sense such conditions and will make the change before the engine has

reached the stage of distress. The gear box is provided to be used and consequently

full use should be made of the intermediate gears to obtain effortless running and smooth

hill climbing.

Keep the feet clear of the brake and gear pedals when not actually using them and keep

the hand off the clutch lever when not in use.

Drive as much as possible on the throttle, making the minimum use of the brakes.

When using the machine on wet or greasy roads, it is generally better to apply BOTH

brakes together, because sudden or harsh application of either brake only, under such

conditions, may result in a skid.

In all conditions, it is advisable to make a habit of always using both brakes together

rather than habitually using the rear brake and reserving the front brake for emergency.

NOTES ON DRIVING

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LUBRICATION

LUBRICANTS TO USE

Efficient lubrication is of vital importance and it is false economy to use cheap oils and

greases.

We recommend the following lubricants to use in machines of our make.

FOR ENGINE LUBRICATION

HOT

above 50° F

SAE 50

Mobiloil D

Castrol Grand Prix

Energol SAE 50

Essolube SO

Shell X-100 Motor Oil 50

COLD

32° F to 50° F

SAE 30

Mobiloil A

Castrol XL

Energol SAE 30

Essolube 30

Shell X-100 Motor Oil 30

EXTREME COLD

below freezing point (32° F)

SAE 20

Mobiloil Arctic

Castrolite

Energol SAE 20

Essolube 20

Shell X-100 Motor Oil

20/20W

NO T E —For the British Isles and much of Europe the Cold and Hot recom-

mendations approximate to Winter and Summer conditions re-

spectively. The Extreme Cold recommendations refer to wintry

conditions in parts of Northern Europe, Canada, the Baltic and

Scandinavian countries, and high mountainous districts where ex-

treme cold is the average condition.

FOR GEAR BOX LUBRICATION

HOT

above 50° F

SAE 50

Mobiloil D

Castrol Grand Prix

Energol SAE 50

Essolube 50

Shell X-100 Motor Oil 50

COLD

32° F to 50° F

SAE 50

Mobiloil D

Castrol Grand Prix

Energol SAE 50

Essolube 50

Shell X-100 Motor Oil 50

EXTREME COLD

below freezing point (32° F)

SAE 30

Mobiloil A

Castrol XL

Energol SAE 30

Essolube 30

Shell X-100 Motor Oil 30

NOTE—Fo r the British Isles and much of Europe the Cold and Hot recom-

mendations approximate to Winter and Summer conditions re-

spectively. The Extreme Cold recommendations refer to wintry

conditions in parts of Northern Europe, Canada, the Baltic and

Scandinavian countries, and high mountainous districts where ex-

treme cold is the average condition.

FOR HUB LUBRICATION AND ALL FRAME PARTS USING GREASE

Mobilgrease No. 4 Castrolease Heavy Energrease C3

Esso Pressure Gun Grease Shell Retinax A, or C D .

FOR TELEDRAULIC FRONT FORKS AND TELEDRAULIC REAR LEGS

Mobiloil Arctic (SAE-20) Castrolite (SAE-20) Energol SAE 20

Essolube 20 (SAE-20) Shell X-100 Motor Oil 20/20W (SAE-20)

FOR REAR CHAINS

Mobilgrease No. 2 Esso Fluid Grease Energrease A.O.

Castrolease Grease Graphited

Heated Until Just Fluid

See Application instructions, page 19.

When buying oils and greases it is advisable to specify the Brand as well as the grade

and, as an additional precaution, to buy only in sealed containers or from branded cabinets.

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ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

This is by dry sump system. Oil feeds, by gravity, from the oil tank to the pump in the

crankcase. The pump forces oil to various parts, which then drains to the bottom of

crankcase sump. The pump then returns oil to the tank. This process Is continuous

while the engine is revolving. The pump is so designed that it has a greater capacity

on the return side to that on the delivery side to ensure that all oil is extracted from

the crankcase. A magnetic filter in the sump removes foreign matter collected

by the oil in its passage through the engine. A metal gauze strainer is fitted to the oil

feed pipe in the oil tank to prevent pieces of fluff, etc., which may find their way into

the tank when replenishing, from entering the oil pump. (See Illustration 4.) It should

be cleaned in petrol each time the oil tank Is drained.

ENGINE OIL PUMP

The pump has only one moving part. This is the plungerwhich revolves and reciprocates.

Rotation is caused by the worm gear on the timing side flywheel axle. Reciprocation

is caused by the guide pin which engages In the profiled groove cut on the plunger.

Oil Is fed to the pump through the lower of the two oil pipes between tank and crank-

case and Is returned through the upper pipe.

If, for any reason, the crankcase is dismantled the oil pump plunger must be removed

from Its housing before attempting to separate the crankcase halves. It is

not necessary to remove the small timing pinion which will pass through in situ.

Important

Under no circumstances should either the pump plunger or guide screw be disturbed in

ordinaryroutinemaintenance.

ENGINE OIL CIRCULATION

The oil pump forces oil through :—

(a) Passages drilled through the timing side flywheel axle, timing side flywheel and crank

pin to lubricate the timing side bearing and the big-end bearing. The splash passes

to interior of cylinder, to lubricate the cylinder and piston, and then falls into the

crankcase sump.

(b) A passage in timing gear case where it " builds up " to a predetermined level to

lubricate the timing gears and then overflows into the crankcase sump.

all rocker gear and valve stems are lubricated and then falls through the push rod

cover tubes and tappet guides to the timing gear case and, from there, drains into

the crankcase sump, as detailed in (b)

The oil pump extracts oil in the crankcase sump and returns it to oil tank. On its way

it passes the magnetic filter located in the crankcase sump.

D—S.

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Illustration 3

Engine Oil Circulation

THE OIL TANK AND FILTER

The level of oil in the supply tank should never be allowed to fall below the low level

mark and, upon replenishment, should not be higher than the top level mark other-

wise, when starting the engine, the bulk of oil in the crankcase sump may be greater

than the space available in the tank.

A metal gauze strainer is secured in the tank end of the feed pipe union.

After the first 500 miles, again at 1,000 miles, and subsequently at 5,000 mile intervals,

it is recommended that the oil tank is drained, the oil filter cleaned in petrol and the

tank replenished with new oil.

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CHECKING OIL CIRCULATION

Provision is made to observe the oil in circulation and it is advisable to do this before

each run.

If the filler cap on the oil tank is removed the end of the oil return pipe will

be noticed below the level of the filler cap orifice and the returning oil can be seen

running from it. This check should be made immediately after starting the engine from

cold. This is because while the engine is stationary, oil from all parts of the interior of

the engine drains back into the crankcase sump, so that, until this surplus is cleared, the

return flow is very positive and continuous. Therefore, if the oil circulation is deranged,

the fact is apparent at once by the lack of a steady return flow.

OUTLET IN OIL RETURN PIPE.

LEVEL INDICATOR LINE.

OIL RETURN PIPE. 7 VENT PIPE.

OIL FEED PIPE.

OIL FEED GAUZE FILTER.

DRAIN PLUG.

Illustration 4

Interior view of the oil tank showing the metal strainer mounted on the entry

end of the feed pipe union, the return flow pipe from the engine to tank via

the small spout, located so that it can be inspected by removing the tank filler

cap, and air vent pipe, provided to ensure freedom from air-locks.

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TO REMOVE THE MAGNETIC FILTER (located in the crankcase)

Incorporated with the crankcase drain plug is a powerful magnetic filter. To remove

the filter merely unscrew the plug.

As the metal particles will adhere very strongly to the magnet they must be forcibly

removed by wiping the magnet with a greased rag. The grease will help to retain the

metal particles on the rag. Keep the magnet away from iron filings, etc., that may

litter the bench, and do not bring the magnet into contact with large pieces of iron

and steel, such as a bench vice, for this will impair the efficiency of the magnet and

consequently its action as a filter.

To remove and clean the feed pipe metal filter:

First drain tank and then release the oil feed pipe from the rubber connecting sleeve on

the metal feed pipe protruding from the bottom of the oil tank.

The metal filter may come away with the rubber sleeve, in which case there is no need

to disturb it. On the other hand it may remain in the oil tank bottom pipe, in which

case it may be withdrawn by grasping the ringed open end and pulling away.

After removal the filter should be cleaned in petrol and allowed to dry before re-fitting.

Reverse the above procedure to re-fit the filter and pipes.

ADJUSTMENT OF OIL FEED

The Internal flow of oil is regulated by fixed restrictions. No adjustment is provided

except for the oil feed to the inlet valve stem. This adjustment is made by a needle

pointed screw located in the right side of cylinder head. (See Illustration 5.) It is

locked in position by a nut. The approximate correct setting is one-sixth of a complete

turn from the fully closed position. Once set it requires little, or no, adjustment.

Inlet valve squeak indicates the oil feed adjustment is not open enough. Excessive oil

consumption, a smoky exhaust or an oiled sparking plug, generally indicates the oil

feed adjustment is open too much,

EXHAUST VALVE STEM LUBRICATION

The exhaust valve stem is lubricated by oil flowing through a passage drilled in the

cylinder head. No adjustment is provided.

LUBRICATION POINTS TO REMEMBER

A clogged metal strainer, in the gravity feed pipe, will cause improper, or no, oil

circulation. This can only occur as the result of adding dirty oil when replenishing the

tank.

Both end caps on pump plunger housing must be air-tight

Check oil circulation before starting each run.

GEAR BOX LUBRICATION

Use one of the grades of Oils specified. In no circumstances must heavy grease be used.

Lubricant is inserted through the filler cap orifice mounted on top edge of kick-starter

case cover.

The gear box must not be entirely filled with oil. An excess will cause leakage. Check

the level every 1000 miles and top-up if necessary.

A screwed drain plug in gear box shell, low down at rear, facilitates gear box flushing

and change of lubricant. An oil level plug, adjacent to K-S spindle, indicates maximum

permissible oil level (content 1 pint).

HUB LUBRICATION

Keep hubs packed with grease. This prevents entry of water and dirt. Grease nipples

accessible through hole in hub disc. Inject small quantity of grease. Excessive grease

may impair efficiency of brakes.

BRAKE DRUM BEARING (Competition Models excepted)

The independent ball bearing upon which the rear brake drum is mounted on spring

frame models is packed with grease upon assembly and requires no further attention

for a considerable time.

During a general overhaul however it is recommended that the bearing is dismantled

and re-packed with fresh hub grease.

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