Acoustech H-100II User manual

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Congratulations on your purchase of a H-100II powered subwoofer. It will give your stereo system unparalleled low frequency output!
Bass frequencies are critical to realistic sound reproduction. After you’ve hooked up your H-100II, you will discover just how much
punch and depth you’ve been missing. No matter what kind of music or videos you listen to… whether you listen to them loud or soft,
you will experience sound that is richer and fuller. Bass guitar and string bass will have more impact. You will be able to FEEL as well
as hear percussion – just the way you would at a live performance. If you have an audio/video system, movies will come alive with
thunderous sound effects that were never possible without the H-100II.
This manual will take you step-by-step through the setup and operating process of your H-100II. Reading this manual carefully will
ensure you get maximum performance from your H-100II.
UNPACKING
Remove the H-100II carefully from its carton to prevent any scuffing or scratching. Take a moment to inspect for any shipping damage.
If you discover shipping damage, please contact your dealer and the shipping company immediately.
Please make sure to keep your sales receipt, it will establish the duration of your warranty.
PLACEMENT
Placement is extremely important because it dramatically affects the bass quality. An optimally placed subwoofer is much more pow-
erful and nice sounding than a poorly placed one. Three factors need to be considered:
1) Distance from your main speakers – The best placement for your subwoofer is on the same wall as the main speakers. How-
ever, if you are not able to place your subwoofer on the same wall as your main speakers, avoid placing the subwoofer halfway
between the front and back walls. This is where you get a strong null from your room’s standing waves. No matter how powerful the
subwoofer is, there will not be as much bass around the center of the room.
2) Distance from a wall outlet – Since the subwoofer requires AC power, it must be placed within 10 feet of a wall outlet. We
don’t recommend extending that range with an extension cord.
3) Positioning and Proximity to walls and corners – Physical placement of the subwoofer will have a definite impact on the
frequency response and the perceived amount of subwoofer bass output. Because low frequencies have long wavelengths, they are
influenced by proximity to a boundary such as a wall or floor.
(See Drawing A below) When you place the subwoofer well away from a wall, it will produce bass at a certain level. Move the
subwoofer close to the wall, it will produce more output (about 3dB more). Putting the subwoofer in a corner will increase output
another 3dB (6dB more than when placed away from walls and corners). The main thing to remember is you can place your subwoofer
in many areas of your room dependent on how much bass you want. If you like a lot of heavy bass, put the subwoofer into a corner.
If you like smoother, less obvious bass, move the subwoofer out into the room.
Since low bass waves are very large (up to forty feet or more across!), they tend to cancel and reinforce each other, causing places
in the room where there are lots of bass and other places where there isn’t very much bass at all. To locate the best place in your
room to put your subwoofer, you can use a technique called the “subwoofer crawl”. First place the subwoofer where you will be
sitting (ex. couch or chair) in your listening area. Turn on music with steady/constant bass and walk around the room at/near knee
level until you find the place where the bass sounds most accurate and balanced. This is where the subwoofer should be placed.
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DRAWING A - Subwoofer placement

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H-100II AMPLIFIER PANEL
DRAWING B - Amp rear panel

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H-100II AMPLIFIER PANEL
1. POWER INDICATOR LED – When the subwoofer is ON, this LED light will be green. When the subwoofer is
in the STANDBY mode, it will be red.
2. POWER/AUTO ON SWITCH – This toggle switch turns the subwoofer on and off. When the switch is in the
OFF position, the subwoofer will not play. When the switch is in the ON position, the subwoofer will stay on
at all times. When the switch is in the AUTO position, the subwoofer will automatically come on when bass
frequencies are fed to it. Then after around 15-20 minutes after you stop playing music, the subwoofer will
automatically go into STANDBY mode until more bass frequencies are fed to it. STANDBY mode uses very
little electricity.
3. PHASE SWITCH – This switch is used to set the subwoofer’s phase to either normal “0º” or reverse “180º”
(out of) phase. The physical location of your subwoofer and main speakers determines the phase setting that
will sound best at your main listening position. Once you determine the placement of the subwoofer, you will
need to try both positions of this switch to determine which setting sounds better in your room. If this requires
using the “180º” mode, don’t worry, there is nothing “abnormal” about it.
4. VOLUME CONTROL – Rotating this knob clockwise increases the output level of the subwoofer. To start
out, make sure that the VOLUME is turned all the way down (fully counterclockwise). Then, slowly adjust the
volume to blend with the other speakers in your system. Care should be taken not to overdrive the subwoofer
to the point of audible distortion.
5. CROSSOVER FREQUENCY CONTROL – If you are connecting your subwoofer to a Dolby Digital type
receiver which has a low level SUBWOOFER or LFE output that requires a subwoofer cable for connection,
you will adjust and set your subwoofer crossover through your receiver, not by using this control. Please check
your receiver owner’s manual for instructions.
If your receiver is not digital (example: stereo only integrated amp or older Dolby Pro Logic receiver) and/or you
are using the HIGH LEVEL INPUT speaker connections, you will use this control to set your crossover in your
subwoofer. This control determines what lower part of the frequency spectrum will be reproduced by the sub-
woofer and what higher parts will be handled by your main speakers. It is a “crossover” control. Rotating the
knob sets the point where all lower frequencies will be handled by the subwoofer and all higher frequencies
will be routed to your main stereo speakers. As a starting point, if you are using left and right tower speakers,
set the CROSSOVER FREQUENCY CONTROL to 80 Hz, with bookshelf speakers to 100 Hz, and with small mini
speakers to 120 Hz.
6. SUB RCA INPUT – This jack is used with a cable to connect your subwoofer to your receiver. This is the
preferred connection. If you use this connection, you will not use #10 and #11.
7. CROSSOVER FROM DIGITAL RECEIVER OR SUB SWITCH – If you are using a Dolby Digital receiver
which has a low level SUBWOOFER or LFE output that requires a subwoofer cable for connection, set this switch
to “Digital Receiver” so you can adjust your subwoofer crossover through your receiver. If your receiver is not
digital (example: older Dolby Pro Logic receiver or stereo only integrated amp) and/or you are using the HIGH
LEVEL INPUT speaker connections, set this switch to “Pro Logic Receiver” so you can adjust your crossover
through your subwoofer.
8. POWER INPUT – This connector is the AC power “in” for the power cord which is supplied with your
H-100II.
9. REMOVABLE FUSE HOLDER – By pushing in and turning counter-clockwise, you can remove and replace
the fuse. Use only the correctly rated 5 x 20 mm, 1.6 amp 250-volt replacement fuses.
10. OUTPUT TO SPEAKERS – If your receiver does not have a SUBWOOFER or LFE output, use these color
coded binding posts to run speaker wire from your main left and right speaker terminals to these OUTPUT
TO SPEAKER terminals. Note: These cannot be used in conjunction with SUB-IN low level inputs (See #6).
11. HIGH LEVEL INPUTS FROM AMPLIFIER – If your receiver does not have a SUBWOOFER or LFE
output, use these color coded binding posts to run speaker wire from your receiver’s main left and right
speaker terminals to these HIGH LEVEL INPUTS.

SUBWOOFER CONNECTION - METHOD A
Connecting to Receivers with a SUBWOOFER or LFE Output Jack
All Dolby Digital, DTS, THX, and Bass Management equipped receivers have a low level SUBWOOFER or LFE output jack. If you
have this, you will use the METHOD A connection as shown below in Drawing C. This is the recommended and easiest connection.
If your receiver does not have a low level SUBWOOFER or LFE output jack, you will use METHOD B (Drawing D) on Page 7 to
connect your subwoofer to the receiver.
For this connection, you will need a mono interconnect cable with a male RCA jack on both ends. This can be purchased at the
majority of electronics and audio stores. Make sure the length of your cable is long enough to reach from your receiver to your sub-
woofer location. The cable should lie flat with a little bit of slack to give some placement flexibility.
WIRELESS HOOKUP - If you prefer a wireless connection rather than using a subwoofer cable, you can connect your
H-100II wirelessly to your digital receiver with a BIC WTR-SYS kit. You can also add an unlimited amount of wireless H-100II
subs to your system by adding BIC W-Receivers. Please contact BIC sales at 877-558-4242, ext. #1 for more information.
HOOKUP STEPS
1. IMPORTANT: Make sure that ALL stereo
system components including the subwoofer
are turned OFF before proceeding.
2. Locate the SUBWOOFER or LFE output
connector on the rear of your receiver and
connect one end of the RCA cable to it.
3. Route the RCA cable to the subwoofer lo-
cation (trying to minimize areas where it
may be stepped on). Connect the other end
of the cable directly to the SUB IN.
4. Connect your main (and surround speak-
ers if applicable) to the receiver according
to the receivers owner manual.
5. Connect the included power cord to the
POWER INPUT (#1) on the back of your
H-100II. Then connect its plug to an AC
outlet ONLY. Since your H-100II draws a
moderately high amount of current, we do
not recommend plugging it into a “conve-
nience” outlet (switched or unswitched)
found on the back of receivers and other
stereo components.
6. Set the CROSSOVER FROM DIGITAL
RECEIVER OR SUB SWITCH (#2) to the
“Digital Receiver” position (on left). This will
enable you to set the crossover from your
digital receiver and disable the CROSS-
OVER FREQUENCY CONTROL (#3) on
the back of your H-100II (also see Page 5,
#5). Refer to your receiver’s owner manual
for instructions on how to set your crossover.
You also need to make sure the SUB-
WOOFER ON setting is set in your receiver.
Otherwise, the receiver will send no signals
to the subwoofer and there will be no sound.
7. Set the PHASE SWITCH (#4) to 0°.
You will later need to follow instructions on
Page 5, #3 for room settings.
8. You are now ready to turn your POWER
SWITCH (#5) on and enjoy the deep bass
you have been waiting for. You can learn
more about the “auto” feature on this switch
on Page 5, #2.
9. See Page 9 for “Initial Listening Test”.
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DRAWING C
Connecting with a Subwoofer or LFE output jack.

SUBWOOFER CONNECTION-METHOD B
Connecting to Receivers with NO SUBWOOFER or LFE Output Jack
If your receiver does not have a low level SUBWOOFER or LFE output jack (for example, older Dolby Pro Logic receivers or
stereo-only integrated amps), you will use the method shown below in Drawing D to connect your subwoofer to the receiver.
For this connection, you will need speaker wire to run from your receiver to sub (for subwoofer HIGH LEVEL INPUTS), and then
from the sub to speakers (for OUTPUT TO SPEAKERS). Speaker wire can be purchased at the majority of electronics and audio
stores. We recommend 16-18 gauge wire. The lower the number gauge, the thicker the wire is. For longer runs, use thicker
wire. Make sure the length of your wire is long enough to give a little bit of slack to for some placement flexibility.
HOOKUP STEPS
1. IMPORTANT: Make sure that ALL stereo
system components including the subwoofer
are turned OFF before proceeding.
2. Measure the length of wire you will need,
and then cut and strip ½˝ of the insulation
from each end of the four wires you will run
for hookup.
3. Locate the front left and right main speak-
er terminals on the rear of your receiver and
connect two wires to these terminals.
4. Route the speaker wire to the subwoofer
location (trying to minimize areas where it
may be stepped on). Connect the other ends
of the speaker wire directly to the HIGH
LEVEL INPUTS FROM AMPLIFIER #1.
Make sure the left and right wires are hooked
to the proper left and right channel and that
all (+) terminals go to (+) terminals and all (-
) terminals go to (-) terminals. Most speaker
wire has some marker to help you keep track
of the polarity such as color coding or writing.
5. Connect the two remaining speaker wires
from OUT TO SPEAKERS #2 to your main
left and right speakers. As in step 4 above,
make sure the left and right channels and (+)
and (-) polarity are correct.
6. Connect the included power cord to the
POWER INPUT (#3) on the back of your
H-100II. Then connect its plug to an AC
outlet ONLY. Since your H-100II draws a
moderately high amount of current, we do
not recommend plugging it into a “conve-
nience” outlet (switched or unswitched)
found on the back of receivers and other
stereo components.
7. Set the CROSSOVER FROM DIGITAL
RECEIVER OR SUB SWITCH (#4) to the
“Pro Logic Receiver” position (on right). This
will enable you to set the crossover from your
subwoofer with the CROSSOVER FRE-
QUENCY CONTROL (#5) on the back of
your H-100II (also see Page 5, #5). In most
cases, setting the crossover to the 90Hz set-
ting on the control will yield the best results.
8. Set the PHASE SWITCH (#6) to 0°.
You will later need to follow instructions on
Page 5, #3 for room settings.
9. You are now ready to turn your POWER
switch (#7) on and enjoy the deep bass
you have been waiting for. You can learn more about the “auto” feature on this switch on Page 5, #2.
10. See Page 9 for “Initial Listening Test”.
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DRAWING D
Connecting with Speaker wire to HIGH LEVEL Inputs and Outputs.

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INITIAL LISTENING TEST
It’s now time to test the H-100II subwoofer in your listening environment.
1. Before turning your stereo system and subwoofer on, double-check all connections.
2. Turn the volume controls on both the subwoofer and your audio receiver all the way down (fully counterclockwise)
and check that the PHASE SWITCH is set to 0° and CROSSOVER FROM RECEIVER OR SUB SWITCH is set to the
proper setting (see Page 5, #7).
3. Turn your stereo system and then subwoofer to the ON position by using the POWER AUTO-ON SWITCH. (See
details on Page 5, #2 regarding AUTO position after performing the “Initial Listening Test”).
4. Confirm that the subwoofer’s green POWER INDICATOR LED is glowing. If it isn’t, check the power connections
between the subwoofer and the wall outlet.
5. Play a musical selection that you are familiar with. Pick a song that has regular low bass beats. Advance the audio
receiver’s volume control up to a normal listening level. If you don’t hear sound through your main speakers, turn off
the system and check connections. Also consult the troubleshooting tips.
6. If sound is coming out of your main speakers, slowly turn the sub amp’s VOLUME CONTROL clockwise until you
hear noticeable additional bass. If you don’t hear bass by the time you have advanced the subwoofer’s VOLUME CON-
TROL halfway, turn off the system and check connections. Also consult the troubleshooting tips.
7. Adjust the sub amp’s VOLUME CONTROL until you are satisfied with the amount of bass (care should be taken not
to overdrive the subwoofer to the point of audible distortion). You may want to try several different movies, tapes, com-
pact discs or DVDs while determining how high to adjust the volume. The amount of bass will vary from disc to disc
and between different types of music.
8. Now that you have adjusted the quantity of bass through the volume, it’s time to work on the quality of the bass by
experimenting with subwoofer placement in your room and adjusting the crossover and PHASE SWITCH.
a. Subwoofer Placement (Also See Page 3 “Placement”) – Subwoofer placement is extremely important because
it dramatically affects the bass quality. An optimally placed subwoofer is much more powerful and nice sounding than
a poorly placed one. While playing music, move the subwoofer around, in and out of corners, closer and farther from
the wall, etc. – as much as the power cord or other connections will allow to determine the best placement. You may
also want to try the “subwoofer crawl” technique found in the last paragraph of “Placement”, Page 3.
b. Crossover – If you have hooked your subwoofer to a Dolby Digital, DTS, THX, or Bass Management receiver, you
will need to refer to your receiver’s user manual for instructions on how to adjust and set your subwoofer crossover
from the receiver.
If your receiver is not digital (example: older Dolby Pro Logic or stereo-only integrated amp) and/or you are using
the HIGH LEVEL INPUT speaker connections, you will use the CROSSOVER FREQUENCY CONTROL on the back
of your subwoofer’s amp to set your crossover from your subwoofer. Change the CROSSOVER FREQUENCY CON-
TROL to higher and lower settings. If the crossover frequency is set too high, you’ll start to hear low midrange
(voices and instruments) through it. This will negatively affect the stereo imaging of your main speakers. If this
occurs, lower the crossover frequency setting until you hear only bass from the subwoofer. If the crossover frequency
is set too low, you simply won’t get much output from the subwoofer. As a starting point, if you are using left and
right tower speakers, set the CROSSOVER FREQUENCY CONTROL to 80 Hz, with bookshelf speakers to 100 Hz, and
with small mini speakers to 120 Hz.
c. PHASE SWITCH – Have someone change the PHASE SWITCH back and forth from 0º to 180º while you sit in
the main listening position. Leave the switch in the position where bass sounds most accurate and balanced.
9. After you are satisfied with the output of your subwoofer, you can make all your volume settings through your
receiver’s volume control. The only time you might want to re-adjust the subwoofer amp’s VOLUME CONTROL
is when you encounter a musical selection that has abnormally low – or high – bass.
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10 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
If you are having a problem with your subwoofer, please read through this “Trouble Shooting Guide”. Many times problems
are actually caused by other items in the system or the subwoofer’s interaction with those items. These problems can easily
be resolved with this guide.
Problem Cause Solution
You have a Ground Loop or prob-
lem with other equipment. This
causes the vast majority of hum
related complaints. The electrical
grounds of the components in
your system are not at the same
electrical potential.
A very common ground loop source is cable TV or satel-
lite cabling. Very few installers take the time to ground
the cable to the house ground, causing a 60 Hz hum that
the subwoofer reproduces. Disconnect the coaxial cable
from your TV or cable box. If the hum goes away, the
cable is the cause. In that case contact your cable com-
pany or get an inexpensive 75 ohm ground loop isolator
on line or at a local electronics store. Ground loops can
also come from faulty electrical wiring in your home.
Consult a licensed electrician to evaluate and possibly re-
pair the AC wiring in your home.
• It is possible that some cables have a poor or broken
ground due to poor construction, oxidation, or damage.
Also, poorly shielded cables can potentially pick up noise.
Try another cable or speaker wire. Also, move the signal
cable away from AC cables, power transformers, or other
EMI sources.
You have an amplifier problem. • Disconnect all interconnects from the amplifier. If still
hums, call or email technical support.
A light dimmer or other triac
based (SRC) device is on the
same AC circuit.
Your speaker wires or intercon-
nects are the cause.
• Use an AC line filter or plug the unit into a different cir-
cuit.
• The unit is going into STANDBY mode during the quiet
passages. Try turning the source signal up. On a Dolby
Digital receiver, turn the SUBWOOFER level up in the
SPEAKER SET-UP menu. After you turn the signal up, turn
down the volume knob on the subwoofer to compensate.
• An alternative is to turn the subwoofer ON/AUTO/OFF
switch to the ON position. When playing, it does not use
any more power and does not affect reliability.
• Check to see if the crossover through the receiver is set
too low, or if setting crossover from the sub, check to see
if the crossover set through the sub is set too low. This
will greatly reduce the signal going to the sub and hence
make it go into STAND BY MODE.
The source is not providing
enough signal.
Noise is being generated by
upstream equipment.
• When you shut down your equipment, turn off the sub-
woofer first. When powering up, turn on the subwoofer
last.
1) HUMMING
OR BUZZING
NOISE
3) Subwoofer
goes into
STANDBY
MODE while
material is
playing.
2) Subwoofer
thumps when
the system is
being turned
on and off.

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Problem Cause Solution
AC power is not getting to the
amplifier.
• Unplug your subwoofer. Unscrew the outer screws on the
back of the sub amp. Wiggle the amp out and make sure
both (+) and (-) leads from the amp are securely connected
to the (+) and (-) leads on the woofer. If not, this will solve
the problem.
5) NO OUTPUT
FROM SUB
LED LIGHTS
UP GREEN with
Power Switch
set to AUTO
4) NO OUTPUT
FROM SUB
LED DOES NOT
LIGHT UP
6) NO OUTPUT
FROM SUB
LED LIGHTS
UP RED with
Power Switch
set to AUTO
7) LOW BASS
OUTPUT from
SUB
8) LITTLE/NO
SOUND from one
main speaker
Fuse is blown or subwoofer
amplifier is not working.
Connection between 12” woofer
and sub amplifier is loose or not
connected.
12” woofer or sub amplifier is
faulty.
The subwoofer is not receiving a
signal.
Subwoofer amplifier may not
be not working. See solution to
troubleshoot.
Volume level on subwoofer or
receiver’s subwoofer output is too
low.
Subwoofer is not placed correctly.
You used speaker level connections
and have mixed up the polarity of
the wires, thus shorting one chan-
nel of the main amplifier.
• Determine whether the woofer or amplifier
is defective.
Unplug your subwoofer. Unscrew the outer screws around
the woofer. Take the 12˝ woofer out of the cabinet and per-
form one of the testing steps below:
1) Touch the woofer’s (+) and (-) terminals to the (+) and
(-) terminals on a 9-volt battery. If you hear a popping
noise, the woofer is good and the amp needs repair. If you
do not hear a popping noise, the woofer is bad.
2) Touch the woofer’s (+) and (-) terminals to the (+) and
(-) leads of a speaker wire connected to a main channel of
your receiver. If the woofer plays fine, then the amp needs
repair. If it does not play, then the woofer is bad.
• Make sure the switch on the back of the sub is in the “ON”
position.
• Check that you are using the correct power cord and that
it is plugged in securely at both ends and make sure that the
AC outlet the subwoofer is plugged into is working. Try an-
other power cord.
• If you have determined you are using the correct power
cord, it is plugged in securely at both ends, and your AC outlet
has power but the LED is still not lighting up, check your fuse
(see #9, Page 5). If this does not correct the problem, your
amplifier needs service. Please contact BIC Tech Support.
• Make sure your digital receiver is set to “SUB ON”.
• Recheck the connections between the receiver and the sub-
woofer.
• Set the subwoofer level to a minimum. Use a different RCA
cable to hook the sub to a DVD players analog output or to
an MP3 player. Play some music and slowly turn the volume
up on the sub. If the sub plays, then the sub is fine and the
problem lies either in the subwoofer cable, the setting on
the receiver, or you have connected to the wrong jack on
the receiver. If still no sound, contact BIC Tech Support.
Increase the volume control located on the back of the sub-
woofer and the subwoofer level or LFE level on the receiver
or other source. It is best to set the level of the subwoofer
relative to the other speakers.
• Correct the polarity of the speaker wires by matching the
(+) and (-) from the receiver/amplifier to the (+) and (-) of
the subwoofer’s speaker level input.
For BIC tech support, please call 877-558-4242, ext. #2 or email [e-mail].
See “Placement” Page 3 of this manual.

CARING FOR YOUR H-100II
The H-100II enclosure is finished in a very high quality
polymer laminate covering that is both attractive and
excellent protection for the wood cabinet. To remove
dirt or fingerprints use a damp, soft cloth. You may also
use high-quality furniture polish on the wood laminate
to maintain the original luster.
Converting H-100II to 220-240
Volt Operation
The H-100II can be converted to 220-240 volt opera-
tion. For instructions, email [e-mail]
or contact tech support at 877-558-4242, ext. 2.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
We suggest that you read the LIMITED WARRANTY
completely to fully understand your warranty/service
coverage. Be sure to save the sales receipt in a
safe place. It will be necessary for warranty
service.
If you believe your H-100II requires service, please first
check the “Troubleshooting Guide” on page 10 and 11
of this manual. Many times problems are actually caused
by other items in the system or the subwoofers interac-
tion with those items. If you require service, please con-
tact us at 877-558-4242, ext. 2. Our techs will then
assist in determining what part requires service and we
will, at our option, repair or replace the defective part.
H-100II Powered Subwoofer
Limited Warranty
If the H-100II proves to be defective in materials or
workmanship within seven years (two years amplifier)
from the date of the original customer’s purchase, we
will, at our option, repair or replace the defective part.
*DISCLAIMER THE WARRANTY STATED HERE-IN IS
IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IM-
PLIED, INCLUDING MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS
FOR PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND ALL OTHER LIABILI-
TIES AND OBLIGATIONS OF B.I.C AMERICA, ALL OF
WHICH ARE EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED. B.I.C AMERICA
HAS NOT MADE AND DOES NOT HEREBY MAKE ANY
OTHER REPRESENTATION, WARRANTY OR COVENANT
WITH RESPECT TO THE CONDITION, QUALITY, DURA-
BILITY, DESIGN, OPERATION, CAPACITY, FITNESS
FOR USE OR SUITABILITY OF THE B.I.C ELECTRONIC
PRODUCT.
© 2017 B.I.C America
TM
Certified BEST VALUE Performance
B.I.C America
925 N. Shepard Street
Anaheim, CA 92806
1-877-558-4242 (4BIC)
www.bicamerica.com
Exclusion of Certain Damages
B.I.C America’s liability for any defective product is
limited to repair or replacement of the product at our
option. B.I.C America shall not be liable for incidental
or consequential damages of any kind or character be-
cause of product defects. Some states do not allow lim-
itations on how long an implied warranty lasts and/or
do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages, so the above limitations and
exclusions may not apply.
This Warranty Does Not Cover:
• Damage caused by abuse, accident, misuse,
negligence, or improper operation.
• Products that have been altered or modified.
• Any product whose serial number has been altered,
defaced, or removed.
• Normal wear and maintenance.
• Damages caused by shipping. (All claims for shipping
damage must be made with the carrier.)
• Sustained cosmetic damages.
Warranty Service
Warranty service must be performed by a B.I.C author-
ized service center. All warranty repairs must be
accompanied by the original bill of sale and a
B.I.C warranty claim form. No other documents are
acceptable or required. This warranty gives you specific
legal rights, and you may also have other rights which
vary from state to state.
Due to our continual efforts to improve product quality as new
technology and techniques become available, B.I.C America re-
serves the right to revise its Speaker Systems specifications
without notice.
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