Aion Electronics Halo Fuzz User manual

1BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Halo Fuzz
Electro-Harmonix Big Muff Pi
Controls & Usage
The Big Muff is a thick distortion/fuzz pedal with a ton of sustain. The controls are as follows:
• Tone controls allow for EQ adjustments
• Mid / Presence control (optional) sets the frequency of the tone control
• Sustain controls the amount of distortion
• Volume sets the overall output
Modications&Experimentation
The AMZ Mid / Presence control has been included as an optional modication. To preserve “symmetry” of
the control layout whether you use it or not, the Tone pot has two possible orientations: middle (for a 3-knob
triangular layout) or to the side (for a 4-knob square layout with the Mid control on the other side). Tobypass
the midrange knob, jumper the pads marked MID BYP in the lower-right side of the PCB.
The diodes in both gain stages have extra pads in case you want to stack them. The middle two pads of each
diode are connected, so you can t two in a row in a stand-up conguration. If you only use one diode in each
direction then just skip the two middle pads and solder it to the two outer pads as in the silkscreen.
Another option is the usage of a JFET gain recovery stage (as in the BJF Fire Red Fuzz) instead of the
standard bipolar transistor gain stage. I don’t know how big of a difference this makes in the overall sound, but
it can be fun to play around with and can be added to any variant. To use this, include C101 and R101 and use
a JFET such as 2N5485 in Q4. Since JFETs normally have different pinouts than BJTs, an extra pad has been
provided to keep you from having to twist the legs. Assuming the pinout is D-S-G, just shift the whole thing
down so it’s still facing the same direction as the silkscreen but offset by one pad.
The Halo Fuzz project is a DIY version of the Big Muff Pi,
one of the most popular (and copied) fuzz pedals next to
the Fuzz Face. There are plenty of DIY Big Muff projects
already, but in order to justify its existence I’ve tried to
make mine the most exible one out there.
I researched a lot of different BMP variants and created
a layout that can accommodate any of them, but the real
fun is in coming up with your own version. This circuit is
endlessly tweakable, so load up a PCB with sockets and
start experimenting!
I have included parts lists for a few of the more well-
known variants, but it’s not exhaustive and there are
many other types of BMPs that can be built on this board
besides the ones listed.
Minorupdate,10/2015: The pot positioning (and
resulting drill template) has been revised slightly to make
it consistent with most other Aion projects.
Halo Project LinkOverview

2BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Parts
Variant:TriangleBigMuff
This is the rst version of the Big Muff Pi, released in 1969.
Variant:VioletRam’sHead
This is the second version of the Big Muff Pi, released in 1973.
Capacitors
C1 100n
C2 (omit)
C3 100n
C4 100n
C5 560pF
C6 50n
C7 100n
C8 560pF
C9 50n
C10 4n
C11 10n
C12 100n
C13 100n
C14 100uF
C15 100n
Capacitors
C1 100n
C2 470pF
C3 100n
C4 100n
C5 470pF
C6 100n
C7 100n
C8 470pF
C9 100n
C10 4n
C11 10n
C12 100n
C13 100n
C14 100uF
C15 100n
Resistors,cont.
R18 39k
R19 39k
R20 390k
R21 100k
R22 12k
R23 2k7
R24 100R
Semiconductors
Q1 - Q4 2N5088
D1 - D4 1N914
Resistors,cont.
R18 39k
R19 39k
R20 390k
R21 100k
R22 10k
R23 2k7
R24 100R
Semiconductors
Q1 - Q4 2N5088
D1 - D4 1N914
Resistors
R2 3k3
R3 82k
R4 390k
R5 820R
R6 22k
R7 1k
R8 8k2
R9 (omit)
R10 390k
R11 150R
R12 12k
R13 8k2
R14 82k
R15 390k
R16 820R
R17 22k
Resistors
R2 39k
R3 100k
R4 470k
R5 100R
R6 15k
R7 1k
R8 8k2
R9 100k
R10 470k
R11 100R
R12 10k
R13 8k2
R14 100k
R15 470k
R16 100R
R17 15k

3BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Variant:RedArmy
This is the seventh major version of the Big Muff, released in 1991 after production had moved to Russia. For
the “Green Russian” version, use 470pF or 500pF capacitors for C2, C5 and C8.
Variant:CreamyDreamer
A boutique BMP from the late 1990s that claims to replicate the Smashing Pumpkins “Siamese Dream” tone.
Part values taken from Kit Rae’s Big Muff Pi site. Ignore the connection from Q3’s emitter (Q2 on Kit Rae’s
schematic) - the 100R resistor that separates +9V from the ltering and polarity diode makes no difference.
Capacitors
C1 100n
C2 430pF
C3 100n
C4 100n
C5 430pF
C6 47n
C7 100n
C8 430pF
C9 47n
C10 3n9
C11 10n
C12 100n
C13 100n
C14 100uF
C15 100n
Capacitors
C1 1uF
C2 470pF
C3 47n
C4 1uF
C5 470pF
C6 1uF
C7 1uF
C8 470pF
C9 1uF
C10 4n7
C11 10n
C12 100n
C13 100n
C14 100uF
C15 100n
Resistors,cont.
R18 22k
R19 20k
R20 470k
R21 100k
R22 10k
R23 2k7
R24 100R
Semiconductors
Q1 - Q4 2N5088
D1 - D4 1N914
Resistors,cont.
R18 47k
R19 47k
R20 390k
R21 100k
R22 10k
R23 2k2
R24 (jumper)
Semiconductors
Q1 - Q3 2N5089
Q4 2N5088
D1 - D4 1N914
Resistors
R2 39k
R3 100k
R4 470k
R5 390R
R6 12k
R7 1k
R8 10k
R9 100k
R10 470k
R11 390R
R12 12k
R13 10k
R14 100k
R15 470k
R16 390R
R17 12k
Resistors
R2 39k
R3 100k
R4 470k
R5 (jumper)
R6 15k
R7 1k
R8 8k2
R9 100k
R10 470k
R11 (jumper)
R12 15k
R13 8k2
R14 100k
R15 470k
R16 (jumper)
R17 15k

4BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Variant:FireRedFuzz
A boutique BMP clone from BJFE in Sweden. It’s somewhat close to a Violet Ram’s Head, but take note of the
alternate JFET gain recovery stage.
*FortheJFETgainrecoverystage, omit R20 and add C101 and R101. JFETs have different pinouts than
bipolar transistors, so an extra pad has been provided to keep you from having to twist the legs around.
Assuming your JFET’s pinout is D-S-G (typical for 2N5485), keep the transistor facing the same direction as
the silkscreen but shift it down by one pad. (The two outer pads are connected.)
**FortheJFETsintherstclippingstage, tie together the source and drain. However, make sure to check
the datasheet for your brand of JFET. 2N3819s tend to be D-G-S, different from a 2N5485, but sometimes
different brands have different pinouts. For a D-G-S pinout you will need to tie together the two outer pins
which takes some dexterity. Leave plenty of space around the middle pin so nothing shorts against it!
Capacitors
C1 1uF
C2 (omit)
C3 1uF
C4 100n
C5 470pF
C6 100n
C7 100n
C8 (omit)
C9 1uF
C10 3n9
C11 10n
C12 220n
C13 1uF
C14 100uF
C15 100n
C101 10uF
Resistors,cont.
R18 22k
R19 22k
R20 (omit)
R21 68k
R22 14k7
R23 6k8
R24 100R
R101 2k
Semiconductors
Q1 - Q3 BC550C
Q4 2N5485*
D1 - D2 2N3819**
D3 - D4 1N914
Resistors
R2 33k
R3 100k
R4 470k
R5 100R
R6 15k
R7 470R
R8 8k2
R9 100k
R10 470k
R11 100R
R12 10k
R13 8k2
R14 100k
R15 470k
R16 150R
R17 15k
AdditionalPartNotes
• Forallvariantslistedabove, the Sustain and Tone pots are 100kB and Volume is 100kA.
• In some of the congurations, capacitors such as C4 and C7 are 1uF. I left space around these so you
can use Panasonic ECQ-V lm capacitors. Some others such as WIMA box lm will t as well.
• Values above are assuming the midrange mod is not used. If you do use this mod, you’ll want R18 to
be 2.2k or 3.3k and C10 to be 12n. This may not always sound exactly like the original since many of the
variants get their distinctive sound from the tone section, so it’s advisable to socket R18, R19 and C10
and experiment.
• Potentiometers are Alpha 16mm right-angle PCB mount.
• I recommend using these dust covers / insulators from Small Bear to insulate the back of the pots from
the board and prevent shorts. If you don’t use these, use some electrical tape or cardboard to act as
insulation. The right-angle pots will make direct contact with the solder pads otherwise.

5BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Schematic
Besides the pots, no part
values are shown on this
schematic as every variant is
vastly different.
See variant parts lists above
for values.
GND GND
GND
GND
GND GND
GND GNDDNGDNG GND
GND
100R
100uF1N4001
100kB
100kB
25kB
100kA
+9V
GND
4k7
IN
+9V
OUT
RPD
R2
R3
R4
6R5R
R7
R8
R9
R10
21R11R
R13
R14
R15
71R61R
R18
R19
R20R21
R22R23
R24
C1
C2
C3
C4
C7
D1
D2
C5
C6
C8
C9
D4
D3
C10
C11
C12
C13
C14 D5
C15
3Q2Q1Q
Q4
SUS
1
2
3
TONE
1
2
3
MID
1
2
3
VOL
1
2
3
C101
R101
LEDR
LED
SW

6BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
General Build Instructions
These are general guidelines and explanations for all Aion Electronics DIY projects, so be aware that not
everything described below may apply to this particular project.
Build Order
When putting together the PCB, it’s recommended that you do not yet solder any of the enclosure-mounted
control components (pots and switches) to the board. Instead, follow this build order:
1. Attach the audio jacks, DC jack and footswitch to the enclosure.
2. Firmly attach the pots and switches to the enclosure, taking care that they are aligned and straight.
3. Push the LED1 into the hole in the enclosure with the leads sticking straight up, ensuring that the at side
is oriented according to the silkscreen on the PCB.
4. Fit the PCB onto all the control components, including the leads of the LED. If it doesn’t t, or if you need
to bend things more than you think you should, double-check the alignment of the pots and switches.
5. Once you feel good about everything, solderthemfromthetop2as the last step before wiring. This way
there is no stress on the solder joints from slight misalignments that do not t the drilled holes. You can
still take it out easily if the build needs to be debugged, but now the PCB is “custom-t” to that particular
enclosure.
6. Wire everything according to the wiring diagram on the last page.
1FortheLED: You can use a bezel if you’d like, but generally it’s easier just to drill the proper size of hole
and push the LED through so it ts snugly. If you solder it directly to the PCB, it’ll stay put even if the hole is
slightly too big. Make absolutely sure the LED is oriented correctly (the at side matches the silk screen) before
soldering, as it’ll be a pain to x later! After it’s soldered, clip off the excess length of the leads.
2Noteonsolderingthetoggleswitch(es): It will require a good amount of solder to ll the pads. Try to be as
quick as possible to avoid melting the lugs, and be prepared to feed a lot of solder as soon as the solder starts
to melt. I recommend waiting 20-30 seconds between soldering each lug to give it time to cool down.
“RPD”and“LEDR”resistors
The resistors marked “RPD” and “LEDR” are generally not original to the circuit and can be adjusted to
preference. “RPD” is the pulldown resistor to help tame true-bypass popping, while “LEDR” controls the
brightness of the LED. I generally use 2.2M for the pulldown resistor and 4.7k for the LED resistor.
Sockets
Since double-sided boards can be very frustrating to desolder, especially components with more than 2 leads,
it is recommended to use sockets for all transistors and ICs. It may save you a lot of headaches later on.

7BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Drilling & Placement
Print this page and have an adult cut out the drilling template below for you. Tape it to the enclosure to secure
it while drilling. Note that the holes are shown slightly smaller than they need to be, so drill out the holes as
shown and then step up until they are the correct size for the components.
Note that the TONE pot has two possible orientations depending on whether you use the Midrange pot or not.
The center or triangle-conguration orientation is shown in gray. If you’re using the four-pot conguration, do
not drill out the gray hole.
Parts Used
• Switchcraft #111A enclosed jacks
• Kobiconn-style DC jack with internal nut
Hammond1590B
(bottom/inside view)

8BIG MUFF PI / HALO FUZZ
Standard Wiring Diagram
This diagram shows standard true-bypass wiring
with a 3PDT switch. When the switch is off, the
input of the circuit is grounded and the input jack
is connected directly to the output jack.
The SW pad is the cathode connection for the
LED. This will connect to ground to turn it on
when the switch is on. Usage of the on-board
LED connection is not required if you have
specic placement needs for your enclosure,
but’s incredibly convenient.
The wiring diagram also makes use of star
grounding principles where all of the grounds
connect to a single ground point (in this case the
sleeve of the input jack). This is best practice
to avoid added noise caused by improper
grounding. The sleeve of the output jack is
unconnected.
If using a painted or powdercoated enclosure,
make sure both jacks have solid contact with
bare aluminum for grounding purposes. You may
need to sand off some of the paint or powdercoat
on the inside in order to make this happen.
Make sure to double-check the markings of the
pads on the PCB for your particular project – they
are not always in the order shown here!
IN GND OUT SW
+9V
SLEEVE
TIP
TIP
License / Usage
NodirectsupportisofferedforthesePCBsbeyondtheprovideddocumentation.It is assumed that you
have at least some experience building pedals before starting one of these. Replacements and refunds will not
be offered unless it can be shown that the circuit or documentation are in error. I have in good faith tested all of
these circuits. However, I have not necessarily tested every listed modication or variation. These are offered
only as suggestions based on the experience and opinions of others.
Projectsmaybeusedforcommercialendeavorsinanyquantityunlessspecicallynoted. No bulk
pricing or discounting is offered. No attribution is necessary, though a link back is always greatly appreciated.
The only usage restrictions are that (1)youcannotresellthePCBaspartofakit, and (2)youcannot
“goop”thecircuit,scratchoffthescreenprint,orotherwiseobfuscatethecircuittodisguiseitssource.
(In other words: you don’t have to go out of your way to advertise the fact that you use these PCBs, but please
don’t go out of your way to hide it. The guitar effects pedal industry needs more transparency, not less!)