AirLiner gemini User manual

aaiirrline
TM
gemini
FOLDING SIT-ON-TOP KAYAKS
by
Assembly Instructions
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Contents
1 Kayaking Safety
3 Care and Maintenance
Repairing or Replacing Air Tubes
4 Gemini Assembly Instructions
10 Over-View of Gemini
13 Frequently Asked Questions
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Kayaking Safety
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!
Kayaking can be hazardous and can involve the risk of serious
injury or death. Kayakers are responsible for obtaining appro-
priate instruction in paddling skills, equipment safety, water
safety, rescue and first aid. It is strongly recommended that
you obtain training in kayaking safety from a qualified and
experienced kayaking instructor.
The various components of Feathercraft kayaks are subject
to wear, breakage and failure. This type of damage can lead
to accidents resulting in serious injury or death. It is your
responsibility to maintain your kayak in excellent condition.
Disassemble your kayak completely at least every two
months. Re-lubricate the framework and inspect for signs of
wear or failure. Any worn, damaged or broken parts must be
repaired or replaced. If you have any doubts or concerns
about the condition of your Feathercraft kayak, contact your
dealer or Feathercraft Products Ltd.
Kayak safety training should include the following topics:
1. Paddling skills. Paddling techniques need to be
practiced in various water conditions. Maneuvering
a kayak through rough seas, currents and tidal
zones is quite different from paddling on flat water.
2. Hypothermia. The greatest danger to a kayaker is
hypothermia or cold water immersion. Protection
against hypothermia involves more than simply
wearing the appropriate protective clothing. It
involves all aspects of kayak safety.
3. Know Your Kayak. Your safety on the water is
dependant on all components of your kayak func-
tioning perfectly. You must inspect your kayak for
signs of wear or failure before setting off on every
trip, including seams, hatches, spray skirt, rudder
and hull.
4. Spray Skirt and Safety Sock. All Feathercraft kayaks
come equipped with a spray skirt and safety sock
(except the Klondike, where the socks are optional,
and the Air Line Sit-on-Top models). These are
important safety items, but you must be fully
familiar with their use before an emergency arises.
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5. Personal Flotation Device and Helmet. The wearing
of an approved PFD is highly recommended for all
kayakers, even those who are strong swimmers. A
helmet should be worn for whitewater or surf zone
paddling.
6. Safety Equipment. The safety equipment you will
carry in and on your kayak will vary with the nature
and length of the trip. Kayak trips of any duration
however, require a pump, spare paddle, bouyant
heaving line, flares and whistle as essential items.
Safety equipment will only be of use to you if you
have the knowledge and training to use the equip-
ment in an emergency.
7. Self-Rescue and Group Rescue. The nature of kayak-
ing is such that some day you or a member of your
group will capsize. This experience can vary from
a refreshing dip in the ocean to a life-threatening
emergency. How you handle a capsize will depend
entirely on your training and experience.
The kayaking community is blessed with a wealth of materi-
al, including books, manuals, magazines, articles and videos,
and resources including schools, clubs, associations and
training centres dedicated to kayaking safety. As with any
skill, kayaking safety must first be learned and then prac-
ticed. We at Feathercraft strongly recommend that you
access resources for kayak safety in your community before
venturing out onto the water.
For more information on kayaking safety, please contact your
local kayak dealer, or your kayak or canoe association. These
websites will get you started.
University of Sea Kayaking
fwww.useakayak.org
Trade Association of Paddlesports
fwww.gopaddle.org
Sea Kayaker Magazine
fwww.seakayakermag.com
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Care and Maintenance
Avoid mildew damage —- do not store the skin wet.
When the kayak is taken apart for storage, thoroughly clean
all frame tubes with fresh water. Re-apply Bo-Shield T-9 to all
frame parts, making sure to well lubricate the telescoping
sections and the spring buttons. This should be done at least
once a month, possibly more, depending on the salt
concentration in the water you are paddling.
A Note on Disassembly
Always lubricate framework. However, after extended use in
surf and sand, the frame parts may be difficult to disengage.
As shown in the illustration below, open the ”twist–assist“
on the aluminum tubing, and insert screw drivers to twist the
tubes apart. The keel hinge pin can also be substituted for
one of the twisting tools.
Repairing or Replacing
Air Tubes
To access the chamber for the air tube, turn the bow and
stern ends “inside out”. Hidden here is a Velcro opening to
access the air tube. Before pulling the air tube out — tie a
long string to the opposite end from where the air nozzle is.
Pull the air tube out, threading the string through the chamber.
This string will be used to feed the new or repaired air tube
back through the chamber.
Aqua Seal is used to repair holes or punctures of either the
air tubes or the hull. Follow the preparation instructions as
outlined on the Aqua Seal containers. Use the popsicle stick
to mix and apply the Aqua Seal. Secure the patched area
with duct tape. Applying weight to a patched area is also
helpful (i.e. bag of sand). To make a quick repair with duct
tape, first swab the area with rubbing alcohol or Cotol 240
Accelerator.
When re-inserting the air tube, check that the air tube does
not get twisted in the chamber. If you should need to replace
an air tube, be sure to request by the color on the nozzle
(Yellow, Red, Green or Blue).
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Gemini Assembly Instructions
gunwales
gunwales
keel
keel
1. Frame parts
Using rubber gloves, liberally lubricate frame inserts
with Bo-Shield T-9.
keel bar with drop skeg
Stern Section Bow Section
gunwale bar with foot track
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2. Roll out skin
Insert frame section stamped “B” into the bow
of the skin (end with logo).
Insert frame section stamped “S” into the stern
of the skin (end with rudder bracket).
Center the keel end pieces.
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stern bow
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3. Attach keel bar
Attach skeg to the shockcorded keel sections.
The hinged keel and gunwale frame sections have
telescoping tubing that can be adjusted for fit. The usual
positioning for the spring button is in the center hole.
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3b
3a
a) The drop skeg is positioned towards the stern. Attach the keel bar to the keel of the bow frame assembly. The keel
hinges up, and joins to the stern keel assembly. b) Push keel hinge down. Lock in place with hinge pin. The keel bar will
be “snaked” or curved quite substantially — this is what should happen. Pull the keel bar to the center of the skin and
secure with the Velcro straps.
Center the drop skeg over slot in hull.
Attach the haul cord for the drop skeg to the
bungee cord with hook tied to webbing.
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4. Attach gunwale bars
The two gunwale bars are the same and have the foot
braces and track. The telescoping section is towards
the stern. The spring button position should be the
same as the keel.
Attach stern end of gunwale bar to curved stern
gunwale section.
Rotate tube “up” and attach the bow end to
curved bow gunwale bar.
As you kneel at the bow, twist tube “down”
towards the skin, and secure with
Velcro straps. Repeat at stern.
Follow these same steps for the
opposite side.
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5b
5a
5. Inflate air chambers
a. Before beginning to inflate, position the seats.
Slide the seat side straps under the gunwale tubes and
attach to the tension lock on seat wing.
b. Inflate the Yellow and Blue air chambers first,
followed by the Red and Green. The Yellow and Blue
chambers can be “less firm”, allowing the paddler to sit
a little lower.
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6. Complete installation of seat
All other seat straps connect to buckles with
grey webbing. Thigh straps connect to
buckles with black webbing. Three thigh
straps are attached. The fourth strap is
attached to the carry-bags.
There is a web strap sewn to the inside
channel of the keel. To keep the seat
from sliding forward, connect the strap
to the buckle on the underside of the
seat.
7. Install deck mesh
Straps for mesh go through the “gaps”
in the webbing sewn along the deck.
IMPORTANT
To avoid ripping the webbing from
the deck fabric, attachments are
always made through the two-tone
loops.
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Notes:
1. Foot braces are oriented with screw heads facing in
towards the center of the kayak to avoid abrasion.
2. When using the rudder, run the cables under the deck
webbing, and through the gunwale velcro closures to
the bow foot braces.
Over-View of Gemini
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Install rudder
Insert the rudder pin through the “key hole”.
Rotate rudder 180º.
Attach rudder cables with sister clips. White haulcord is
attached to clip beside seat.
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Sister Clips (two of these
clips are mounted on each
side of the rudder).
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Connecting rudder control to stern foot brace
Webbing adjusters are connected to the foot brace.
Unscrew thumb-knob on foot brace; stem of knob goes
through grommet. Re-attach
knob to foot brace. Slide brace
on to track. Ensure brace can
slide easily on track. (If not,
check knob that you re-attached.)
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Ladder-lock buckle
Tab with loop – adjusts rudder cable length
Thumb screw knob
Brace foot plate
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Frequently Asked Questions
The following are general “Frequently Asked Questions”
about Feathercraft kayaks.
What is the Warranty ?
All Feathercraft Kayaks come with a five year warranty on all
parts and workmanship. Our service and support will contin-
ue well after that, as your Feathercraft Kayak is expected to
last 10 to 15 years.
The best advertising available is a happy kayaker paddling
their Feathercraft!
Materials and Construction
The Hull
For years we used hypalon. This was the best product avail-
able. Hypalon is a rubber and neoprene laminate that is
extremely rugged and durable. To make a hull of hypalon
fabric various glues and chemical compounds are required
to bond the sections together. It is a toxic, incredibly labour
intensive job. Huge developments have been made in the
fabric industry in recent years. And now other fabric options
have become available.
All fabric hull material begins with a cloth weave of either
polyester or nylon. Then the fabric is coated with either
polyvinyl chloride (PVC vinyl), urethane or hypalon. The best
cloth weave is made of high-tenacity fibers woven in a tight,
balanced weave (i.e. a similar number of threads going both
lengthwise and across the fabric).
Urethane is harder than hypalon rubber and much harder
than PVC, hence having higher abrasion resistance. Urethane
coated fabrics have typically been used as heavy duty truck
and equipment tarps and on inflatable rafts. We found that
these massed produced, single coated fabrics are too stiff to
stretch over our sleek frame works. We had to work with our
supplier to develop the combination of strength and supple-
ness that we require. The base fabric is made from high
tenacity nylon fibers, an 840 denier balanced weave. The fab-
ric is scorched (heated) and dyed. To ensure high adhesion
of the coating to the fabric, a solution coat of thin urethane is
impregnated into the fibers. This is followed by successive
applications of urethane coats. The outer coats are harder
than the inner coats. The fabric is extremely tough, yet sup-
ple. The advantages are obvious: high abrasion resistance,
high UV resistance, resistant to fading, supple, light weight,
weldable. The disadvantage is that this fabric, which is made
in small quantities for Feathercraft, is considerably more
expensive than hypalon.
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Different Hull Fabrics are Used by Different Manufacturers.
a) PVC This material may seem quite robust because of its
cloth support. However, PVC (vinyl) is soft and abrades rela-
tively easily. It has very poor UV resistance, and after a few
years becomes quite brittle. Its main advantage is that it is
inexpensive (about one quarter the cost of hypalon and
Duratek). PVC can also be welded.
b) Urethane: This is a very hard and abrasion-resistant materi-
al. It is also considerably lighter than hypalon, and is more
resistant to many toxic chemicals. Previously, we could not use
urethane as a hull fabric because it was incredibly difficult to
bond using traditional glueing methods. But we knew it could
be welded, and that this was the direction we wanted to go. A
special fabric was developed for us to use as a hull fabric. New
equipment has also become available allowing us to create the
complicated shapes and curves of our hulls.
c) Hypalon: This has traditionally been the standard for expe-
dition-style skin kayaks. Hypalon is basically neoprene (a
synthetic rubber) with additives patented and supplied by
DuPont. These increase UV resistance and allow the material
to be dyed. The best hypalon is still made in Europe. The type
we used for years, came from France. We changed our hull
fabric for two reasons: one, to get away from the toxic chemi-
cals required to fabricate the hulls; and two, for our sit-in
models, we wanted to weld a skin that would be completely
sealed, water-tight and dry. Hypalon can not be welded.
How tough is the hull?
The hull is extremely durable. With some care, you should
get 10 to 15 years of use. You should treat the craft with the
same respect and care that you would a fiberglass hull. Try
to avoid dragging it over rocks, or crashing it onto coral or
barnacles. But don’t worry, if it is unavoidable, it can take the
abuse. (We just don’t recommend it all the time.) The interest-
ing thing with a skin hull, if you meet up with a solid object
like a rock or chunk of coral, the fabric “gives”, so the impact
is not as intense. A fibreglass hull would just “crunch”.
Can I repair the hull?
Patching the hull is similar to patching a bicycle tire. Aqua
Seal can be used to fill small cosmetic nicks. To make a quick
fix with duct tape, or one of the “Quick Patches”, first clean
the area with rubbing alcohol or Cotol. Patching instructions
are detailed on the adhesive in the repair kit.
The Deck
The deck fabric is polyester with a light coating of urethane
on the underside. Allow the skin to dry completely before
rolling up for storage.
The Frame
The frame is made from 6061-T6, and 6063-T832 anodized
magnesium/aluminum alloy, and is the strongest, yet lightest
in weight. This same alloy is used extensively in the aircraft
industry. We have had surprisingly few repairs, considering
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the number of boats that we have sold. Tour operators tell us
that they have far fewer repairs than with wood-frame
kayaks. One of the many beauties of a folding kayak is that
should a piece break or get lost, that single piece can be
repaired or replaced.
The alloys that we use are very corrosion-resistant, and are
used extensively in the marine industry. The clear anodized
coating protects the aluminum from pitting. However, regu-
lar maintenance and lubrication are required to ensure that
the sliding frame members do not seize together.
Framework Care & Maintenance:
1. Disassemble your kayak every two months.
2. Rinse the frame thoroughly with fresh water to
wash off the sea salt and make assembling the
frame much easier.
3. Lubricate joins, tubes, extension bars, and spring
buttons with Bo-Shield T-9.
4. Let the skin dry completely on the frame before
storing the kayak in its pack.
Repairs
A Standard Repair Kit is included with each kayak and contains:
1. written assembly instructions
2. Aqua Seal repair adhesive and Cotol accelerator
3. 1 oz dropper bottle of Bo-Shield T-9
4. sandpaper
5. 2 Quick Patches
6. patch fabric for deck, hull, sponsons, pack-bag
Preparation for glueing a patch to the Urethane hull :
1. Round the corners of your patch.
2. Ensure area is clean and dry.
3. Roughen smooth surfaces. Swab the area with
Cotol.
4. For a two hour cure time, combine one part Cotol to
three parts Aqua Seal.
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5. As the adhesive itself is slippery, secure patched
area with duct tape, and/or apply weight to the
patch (ie, bag of sand). To apply a patch to the deck,
ensure the fabric is clean and dry.
Sponsons
Sponsons are the air tubes that create your kayak. They are
made from urethane and the seams are welded. Urethane is
an extremely tough, yet light material. Each air tube is in a
separate chamber.
Pre-caution:
If the kayak is not being paddled, but is in the sun during the
heat of the day, release the air from the sponsons. Air in the
sponsons will expand, and could potentially rupture the
sponson.
The sponson can be repaired using the same technique and
repair adhesive as the hull. To remove the sponson, turn the
ends of the kayak skin inside out. The sponson chamber is
accessible at either end. At the bow end of the sponson,
there is a tab with a hole punched. Attach a long piece of
string or rope to the end of the sponson. Disengage the air
hose from the opposite end, and pull the sponson through
the chamber. Once the repair has been made, pull the spon-
son back through the chamber with your rope. Be sure the
sponson lies flat and does not get twisted.
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Feathercraft Products Ltd.
4-1244 Cartwright Street on Granville Island,
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada V6H 3R8
Telephone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
www.Feathercraft.com [e-mail]
Updated Sept 07
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Feathercraft Kahuna 18
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