Whittaker Columbia 8.7 User manual

HISTORY OF COLUMBIA YACHT
Columbia Yacht was founded in 1960 in Costa Mesa, California. It started out
as small company named Glas Laminates which produced camper tops for pickup
trucks, shower stalls and portable chemical toilets. In 1961 the company's
management decided to expand into the sailboat business with the relatively
new building material, fiberglass. The company's new product was called the
Islander 24, which immediately drew much interest and sold out production for
the first year.
In 1962 a completely new model was born; the Columbia 29; A Sparkman &
Stephens design, it was to become a highly successful model. This new boat
was later to inspire the company to take on its name as its corporate title
and establish the distinctive emblem that has become known throughout the
world today.
In 1964 the success of Columbia and growth of consumer interest in the
products manufactured by Columbia warranted an expansion to the East Coast of
the United States. The move allowed Columbia to reduce the distance and
delivery time of the product to eastern customers. The new eastern plant was
located on a nine-acre site in Portsmouth, Virginia where soon all products
of the company were in full production.
In 1965 Columbia was credited with the manufacture of the largest production
fiberglass sailboat in existence. The new William Tripp designed Columbia 50
was a phenomenal success in design and racing wins and the overwhelming
demand for the product helped to boost Columbia into the leadership position
in the sailboat industry.
In 1967 Columbia became a subsidiary of the California based conglomerate,
the Whittaker Corporation.
With the addition of managerial expertise and financial support coupled with
the technical and engineering resources of its new parent company, Columbia
further strengthened its position of innovation and growth in the sailboat
industry. The company's headquarters and West Coast plant was moved to a new
location in a new modern facility located on a 10 acre site in southern
California's Irvine Industrial complex. In 1968 Whittaker acquired Coronado
Yachts and merged it with the Columbia operation under separate marketing
policies.
In 1971 Columbia embarked on a new program of building kit-boats,
Salilcrafter Custom Yachts, to appeal to a group of owner/builder customers.
This continued through 1974 when it was decided that the kit-boat business
was interfering with the overall new boat production operation.
In 1972 Columbia became a division of Whittaker Corporation.

HISTORY OF COLUMBIA YACHT (CONTINUED)
In August 1975 Columbia re-established its headquarters in the new 50 acre. 5
building site on the Intercoastal Waterway in Chesapeake, Virginia. This
huge, new, modern facility resulted in the consolidation of Columbia's
production operations on the east coast and the sale of its other two plants.
At this time Coronado products have been blended into the Columbia product
line and the brand name discontinued.
Today, Columbia has become a "grand old name" in the sailboat industry. Columbia
products are produced in Australia, Japan, and Spain under license agreements and
Columbia products are being sold throughout the world through a growing strong network
of Columbia dealers.
The Columbia family of satisfied and enthusiastic owners, over the years,
whether in racing, cruising or just enjoying the thrill of sailing, are
constantly changing and adding to the continued growth and new product
development of an industry innovator and leader, Columbia Yacht.

COLUMBIA 8.7 OWNERS MANUAL
CONTENTS
TITLE PAGE
WELCOME TO COLUMBIA YACHT
HISTORY OF COLUMBIA YACHT
FORWARD
1. PRE-DELIVERY AND WARRANTY PROGRAM
1.1 Columbia Warranty Coverage
1.2 Columbia Warranty Certificate
1.3 Pre-Delivery Service Record and Form
2. SPECIFICATIONS
2.1 General Specifications
2.2 Technical Specifications
2.3 Light Bulb List
2.4 Thru-Hull Penetrations
3. SPARS RIGGING AND HARDWARE
3.1 Mast Tune on Commissioning
3.2 Mainsail Gear
3.3 Genoa Gear
3.4 Optional Spinnaker Gear
3.5 Optional Boom Vang
3.6 Optional Reefing Gear
4. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
4.1 Basic Electrical System
4.1.1 Bonding System
4.1.2 Battery Condition Indicator
4.1.3 Battery Maintenance
4.2 Operation of 12 Volt D. C. System
4.2.1 Standard 12 Volt D.C. System
4.2.2 Optional 12 Volt D.C. System
4.3 Optional 110 Volt A.C. Electrical System
4.3.1 Optional Hot Water Heater
4.3.2 Optional Battery charger

5. ENGINE OPERATION
5.1 Fuel System
5.1.1 Fuel Tank
5.1.2 Fuel Filters
5.1.3 Safe Fueling Practices
5.2 Propeller
5.3 Propeller Shaft
5.3.1 Coupling and Alignment
5.3.2 Stuffing Box
5.4 Reverse and Reduction gear
5.5 Controls and Instruments
5.5.1 Engine Controls
5.5.2 Instruments
5.6 Operating the Engine
5.6.1 Break-in Procedures
5.6.2 Starting
5.6.3 Running
5.6.4 Stopping
5.7 Winterization
5.8 Optional Diesel
5.8.1 Bleeding
5.8.2 Engine Control
5.8.3 Instruments
5.8.4 Break-in Procedures
5.8.5 Running the Engine
6. PLUMBING SYSTEMS
6.1 Thru-Hulls
6.2 Fresh Water System
6.2.1 Sinks
6.2.2 Optional Hot and Cold Pressure Water System
6.2.3 Optional Shower
6.3 Manual Bilge Pump
6.4 Marine Toilet
6.4.1 Optional Holding Tank, Dockside
6.4.2 Optional Holding Tank, Dockside and Overboard Discharge
7. MAINTENANCE TIPS
7.1 Rudders, Keels and Bottom Paints
7.2 Spars, Rigging and Hardware
7.3 Fiberglass Surfaces
7.4 Woodwork
7.5 Sails

8. INTERIOR APPOINTMENTS
8.1 General
8.2 Ice Box
8.3 Alcohol Stove
8.4 Miscellaneous
9. SAILING TIPS
9.1 Basic Keelboat Sailors Library
9.2 Miscellaneous Publications
10. DIAGRAMS
10.1 Interior Arrangements
10.2 Sailplan and Sail Data
10.3 Deck Hardware
10.4 Rigging List
10.5 Electrical Schematic
10.6 Fuel System
10.7 Engine Installation
10.8 Plumbing

2. SPECIFICATIONS
2.1 GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Model Name
Model Number
Length Overall
Designed. Load Waterl1ne Length
Beam
Draft
Displacement
Ballast
Rig
Maximum Cabin Headroom
Sleeping Capacity
Vertical Clearance
Designer
Columbia 8.7
299
28’ 7”
23’ 2”
10’ 0”
4’ 8”
8,500 lbs.
3,500 lbs.
Sloop
6’ 1”
5
41’ 3”
Alan Payne
8.7 m
7.1 m
3.0 m
1.4 m
3,900 kg
1,600 kg
1.85 m
12.6 m

2.2 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
a. Hull Number: ________________________
b. Engine Standard Optional
Manufacturer Medalist Universal Motors Volvo Penta
Model: Atomic 2 MD6B
Power 10 H.P. @ 3000 RPM 10 H.P. @2,400 RPM
Serial Number: __________________ __________________
Gear Model: MS
Gear Ratio: 2.5:1 1.91:1
c. Batteries 105 amp-hr (one standard, one optional )
d. Propeller Shaft
Material: Stainless Steel
Diameter: ¾ Inches
Length: 48.75 inches
e. Propeller
Material: Bronze
Style: Solid 2 Blade
Rotation: Right hand ( Left Hand with Diesel Option )
f. Fuel Capacity: 20 Gallons
g. Water Capacity
Port: 30 Gall
g. Sail Area
100% Foretriangle 231 sq. ft.
Main 185 sq. ft.
Total (100% Foretriangle ) 416 sq. ft.

2.3 LIGHT BULB LIST
Lamp Description
Port and Starboard Running
Bow
Stern
Masthead (Anchor )
Foredeck
Master Control Panel
Cabin Dome Lights
Cabin Swivel Lights
Instrument Panel
Type
90
1416
1416
90
212
1815
W-1141
W-1141
2W
2.4 THRU-HULL PENETRATIONS
Description
Toilet Intake –Sink
Discharge
Toilet Discharge
Engine Cooling Intake
Galley Sink Discharge
Engine Exhaust
Bilge Pumps
Scuppers
Rudder Stock
Propeller Shaft
Seal
Seacock
Seacock
Seacock
Seacock
Seacock
None (Above LWL)
None (Above LWL)
Stuffing Box
Stuffing Box
Access
Sink Cabinet
Lower Locker Door
Sink Cabinet Lower Locker Door
Locker Bin Below Galley Sink
Locker Bin Below Galley Sink
Cockpit Seat and Lazarette Locker
Cockpit Seat and Lazarette Locker
Cockpit Seat and Lazarette Locker
Companionway Ladder Aft
Engine Room
Bulkhead Panel

3.SPARS RIGGING AND HARDWARE
One of the most rewarding activities connected with sailing is
tinkering with your boat’s rigging and hardware. The best
skippers always seem to be looking aloft at the sails and then
thinking about new fittings, or new ways to improving old ones.
In this way a person acquires a thorough understanding of how
and why every piece of sailing equipment works, plus how
to repair and maintain it. As sailors, we too, are
constantly trying to achieve better and easier boat performance;
thus the gear that we install is constantly being improved. What
we hope to accomplish in this section is to give you the
background information for setting up your boat in the beginning
for normal sailing conditions.
When you need more help and information, please consult your
local dealer.
3.1 MAST TUNE ON COMMISSIONING
When the boat is commissioned it is important that the rigging
be set up so as to support the mast in a vertical position
athwartship. With the backstay and headstay only snug and all
lower shrouds loose, tighten the upper shrouds so as to position
the masthead directly over the centerl1ne or the yacht. At this
point both upper shrouds should have equal tension. A person
should be able to deflect the shrouds a couple of inches with a
light pull or push at about chest height. The rigging should not
be set up exceptionally tight. The backstay can then be adjusted
to a position that would be used in light air sailing. Next
adjust the forward lowers so that they have about one inch more
play than the uppers. Finally adjust the aft lowers so that they
have several inches more play than the forward lowers.
Additional preliminary tuning or the mast should take place
while sai11ng to windward in a medium breeze or 8 to 10 knots.
Sighting along the backside of the mast from deck level will
indicate what further turnbuckle adjustment needs to be made to
the windward side of the mast. The top of the mast should be
straight. If the upper shroud tension is correct, adjustment
should be made with the forward lower shroud. If the middle of
the mast is falling off to leeward, tighten the mast to
windward. In this breeze the, aft lower should Just be starting
to get snug but should not be carrying any appreciable load.
Always tack, and then make the turnbuckle adjustments on the now
lee or slack side of the mast and sight the mast on the new
windward side for further corrections. After a few tacks, the
mast should be straight! Secure the rigging by inserting cotter
keys into the turnbuckles; spread them open and cover with tape
to prevent any snags.

3.1 CONTINUED
Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the
rigging, especially after the first sail in a strong breeze. In
windy conditions it is actually desirable to have the mast head
"fall-off" slightly to leeward, giving the mast a smooth, even
curve from head to deck. After a few more sails in strong
breezes, the rigging should be checked again for tune, as
additional stretch will occur.
3.2 MAINSAIL GEAR
In addition to spars, the mainsail gear consists of a stainless
steel braided tail halyard, cunningham line, topping lift,
internal outhaul, mainsheet, and ball bearing traveller. The
cleat and an optional winch, if ordered, are mounted on the
starboard side of the mast. After hoisting the main, insert a
pre-sprung, cotter pin in the hole located in the luff groove
just above the gate so that the head of the pin prevents the
slides from leaving the luff groove when the sail is lowered.
The outhaul consists of an internal tackle with a purchase of
5:i giving ample power to adjust foot tension when under sail.
The outhaul is controlled from the bottom of the boom near the
gooseneck to allow adjustment even when the boom is eased such
as on a broad reach.
The mainsheet consists of a six-part tackle terminating at a cam
cleat on the traveller car. The ball bearing traveller is
conveniently located on the bridge deck. Athwartship control is
achieved by pushing the blocks and car to the desired position
on the traveller and securing it there with one or both of the
spring loaded traveller stops.
The main cunningham dead ends on an eye strap on the port side
of the mast. It is passed through the cunningham cringle then
down to a clam cleat on the opposite side of the mast. As the
wind freshens the cunningham can be taken in to help control
draft and keep it forward in the sail.
After hoisting sail, remember to ease the topping lift at the
aft end of the boom so that the mainsail can be properly
sheeted.
3.3 GENOA GEAR
The trend in modern yacht design has been to smaller mainsails
and larger jibs or "Genoas". Usually any sail that overlaps the
mast is considered a Genoa and is identified by the amount of
the overlap.

3.3 CONTINUED
Example: If the distance from the face of the mast to the bow
(“J" on the sail plan) is 10 feet and a line 15 feet
distant (LP) was drawn parallel to the headstay then
any Genoa with a clew (aft lower corner of sail) on
that line would be a "150% Genoa".
It is extremely important to realize that these large sails can
concentrate very high loads over a very small area, hence the
gear must have high safe working loads.
All of the Genoa Gear has been designed and prepared to accept
those extreme loads. The track is thru bolted and all blocks
have ample safety factors. All other fittings are of the best
possible design and strength for the job intended.
Most fitting failures occur from improper usage, usually by
trying to use an under designed fitting instead of the proper
factory recommendation. If loads are expected to come close to
the safe working load of the block, then the next size 1arger
must be used. Please remember that if a line turns back on
itself, like all halyards, spinnaker sheets and guys, then the
load on that block is almost doubled.
Genoa Gear consists of a braided tail stainless steel halyard
with halyard winch, sheets, inboard adjustable fairlead blocks,
two speed primary winches and related cleats. Snatch blocks can
be added as outboard fairleads by attachment to the perforated
toe rail. Due to the large loads imposed on Genoa sheets, it is
important that the angle from a sheet fairlead block does not
impart a twisting movement on the block that could lead to
failure. The primary winches are located towards the after end
of the cockpit coamings to provide a fair lead for a large range
of genoas without the need for a footblock. If an oversized
Genoa is used that twists the fairlead block, then a footblock
should be added for turning the sheet.
When the Genoa is hanked on, one will notice two tack hooks on
the stemhead. The tack cringle of the headsail should be placed
directly on this hook doing away with the need of a shackle. The
halyard leads to a winch and cleat on the port side of the mast
that provides sufficient power to tension the luff. Increasing
tension on the halyard will tend to pull the draft forward in
the sail. Angle of twist as well as relative foot and leech
tension can be adjusted by fairlead position and sheet tension.

3.4 OPTIONAL SPINNAKER GEAR
With the trend to larger genoas, the spinnakers also get larger
and need larger and stronger gear to handle them. As with the
Genoa Gear, our Spinnaker Gear has been designed and fabricated
to meet extreme loads that this beautiful sail can produce.
Spinnaker Gear is complete consisting of a spinnaker pole,
reaching strut, mast car with control line, spinnaker halyard,
topping lift, foreguy, afterguy, and two sheet snatch blocks. If
the boat is equipped with the optional winch package consisting
of two secondary and main halyard winches, then the secondaries
may be used for sheeting. When not in use the spinnaker pole and
reaching strut are conveniently stored forward in the deck
chocks on the port and starboard sides respectively.
When rigging the spinnaker the snatch blocks may be attached to
the transom quarter castings or an aft section of the perforated
toe rail. The foreguy is led through a block shackled to the
stemhead and secured to one of the forward mooring cleats. The
bails which are an integral part or the bow pulpit are a
convenient place to secure halyards, sheets and guys when one is
in the process of setting up for a spinnaker hoist. Height of
the inboard end of the pole can be adjusted with a control line,
which secures on a mast cleat. A thumbscrew I. also provided on
the pole car as an auxiliary means of locking the pole in
position. The spinnaker halyard leads to a cleat on the port
side of the mast. In beam reaching conditions, when the pole is
eased forward near the headstay, very high compression stresses
may be exerted upon the pole. The reaching strut allows for a
better angle of pull for the afterguy, thus reducing the loads
to a safer point. This also eliminates chafe of the afterguy on
the upper shroud.
If you are not familiar with spinnakers, it is recommended that
you learn the required techniques before trying to hoist and set
one yourself. Have a few experienced friends join you for the
first couple of spinnaker drills so that you can enjoy the
pleasures of this sail without the complications that can
accompany incorrect procedures.
3.5 OPTIONAL BOOM VANG
The boom vang permits control of the twist in the mainsail when
off the wind. It has also been used as a preventer against gybes
and to prevent the boom, from bouncing around in light wind
and/or a chop. The vang consists of a tackle with a purchase of
4:1, which is self-cleating. There are snap shackles on each
end. It may be rigged from the welded bail on the boom down to a
swivel bail, near the base of the mast.

3.5 CONTINUED
This allows one to play with the sheet without constant vang
readjustment. Also, in this position, a gybe may be accomplished
without down rigging the vang. Alternately the vang may be led
to the rail where a greater downward force can be exerted on the
boom. The vang should be slack when going to weather. When the
sail is eased to the point where the traveller cannot be used to
control leech tension, the vang should be employed. A good
starting point for setting the vang is to tighten the leach so
that the top batten is parallel to the boom.
3.6 OPTIONAL REEFING GEAR
The 8.7 may be equipped with three Quick Reefing systems (also
known as California Reefing, Slab Reefing or Jiffy Reefing)
intended for use with a flattening reef and two sets of reef
points. This system provides rapid reefing ability with a
minimum loss of speed as well as permitting excellent control of
mainsail shape. The short reef line attaches with a shackle to
the fixed eye on the end of the boom. It is reeved through the
flattening cringle in the sail, back to the fixed eye on the
opposite side of the boom, then forward through the adjustable
eyes to a clam cleat on the boom. The medium reef line attaches
to the aft adjustable eye and the long reef line to the forward
adjustable eye on the boom. They are then reeved through the
first and second reef cringles in the same manner as the
flattening reef.
To operate the flattening reef, ease the sheet slightly and pull
the reef line till the boom is drawn up to the flattening
cringle and then resheet. The main cunningham should be adjusted
in conjunction to optimize sail shape. To put in the first reef
start by removing the cotter pin sail stop. Make sure the
topping lift adjustment will prevent the boom from drooping.
Ease the mainsheet and main halyard. Tighten the reef line till
the reef clew cringle and boom are brought together. Slip the
reef tack cringle over the tack hook on the gooseneck in such a
manner that the luff leads upwards without a twist from the
hook, not downwards. Rehoist and tension the halyard then
resheet the main and continue sailing. The reef is shook out by
reversing this procedure. The second reef can be taken in using
the same procedure.
The boom reef eyes are adjustable to accommodate the reef
cringle locations in your sails. They should be set up at the
dock or in a practice session to provide an appropriate amount
of tension in both the leach and foot of the sail.
If the genoa is equipped with a reef cringle for tack and clew,
it may be reefed as follows. First, tie in an auxiliary sheet
to the reef clew cringle.

3.6 CONTINUED
A genny reef line with an eye splice in one end may be slipped
over one tack hook, passed through the tack cringle and led to a
forward mooring cleat. After easing the halyard the tack reef
cringle is hauled down to the stemhead and secured, and then the
halyard is retighten and the sail sheeted in. Alternately,
although there is less control on the sail during the reefing
process, the halyard may be eased and the tack reef cringle
slipped over the opposite tack hook to secure it.

4. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
4.1 BASIC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The Master Power and Auxiliary Control Panels feature integrated
simplified controls and circuit breaker protection to permit
safe and efficient operation of your boat's electrical
equipment. All panel components have been carefully selected for
their proven performance in marine applications. The basic panel
is of a metal alloy, which is inherently corrosion resistant and
is doubly protected to optimize resistance to reduce the effects
of the marine environment.
Electrical current is directed from a 12 volt battery (a second
optional 12 volt battery is available) through the Master Power
Control Panel for engine starting, battery charging and
accessory loads. Panel selection of "BAT 1" Or "BAT 2"
determines which of the two batteries if so equipped will be
utilized for engine starting and subsequent charging. The
standard single battery circuit is connected through the "BAT 1"
position. Before activating the electrical system, use the
Battery Condition Indicator to ascertain the condition or your
batteries.
The boat is completely wired when it leaves the factory with the
exception of the mast harness hookup. When the mast is stepped,
the polarized connector in the mast should be joined with the
mating connector protruding from the deck mast step. When the
mast is unstepped the mast harness should be disconnected at
this connector.
4.1.1 BONDING SYSTEM
The entire yacht is electrically bonded. Basically this means
that major isolated metallic objects have been electrically
connected with a common bonding conductor which is attached to
the keel. This in turn acts as a ground plate. This system
minimizes electrolytic corrosion due to stray currents,
minimizes radio interference and provides a low resistance path
for high voltages such as those that can occur when lightning
strikes. The rig, including mast, stays, and shrouds have been
bonded for lightning protection of personnel and vessel.
Nonetheless, as far as practical, one should remain inside a
closed boat and avoid making contact with metallic masses"
during a lightning storm.

4.1.2 BATTERY CONDITION INDICATOR
This type or "indicator" or "meter" is technically referred to
as a "Suppressed Zero Voltmeter". Note that calibrations do not
start at zero but provide a full-scale reading from 8 or 10 to
16 volts, depending on the meter. Below 8 or 10 volts the
battery charge is so low that terminal voltage readings are
meaningless. Approximate voltage range interpretations are as
follows:
Engine Not ) Bellow 11 ------- Very low battery charge
Running or ) 11-12 ------------ Low battery charge
At idle ) 12-13 ------------ Well charged battery
Engine ) 13 to 13 1/2 ----- Low charge rate
Running ) 13 1/2 to 15 1/2 - Alternator & Voltage
Above ) Regulator OK
Idle ) 15 ½ or above - Voltage. Regulator out of
Adjustment
It is important for you to understand that the reading on the
Battery Condition Indicator Dial is indexed from the toggle test
switch position regardless or the master switch position unless
it is in the "BOTH" position. When the Master Switch is in the
"BOTH" position, the Battery Condition Indicator Dial will
indicate the potential or the highest charged battery no matter
which way the toggle test switch is indexed. When the Master
Switch is in either the "OFF", "BAT 1 " or "BAT 2" positions,
the meter will read the condition of the battery towards which
you index the Toggle Test Switch. Note that panel and meter
illumination, is also provided by this same Toggle Test switch.
Before activating the electrical system, check the condition of
both batteries and then select the strongest battery for engine
starting. Index the Master Switch to the strong battery and then
start your engine. It will usually require about 15 or 30
minutes of engine running time to bring the starting battery
back up to normal charge. Check the Battery Condition Indicator
to assure that charging is normal and when the selected starting
battery has been restored it may be placed on reserve by
switching to the other battery so subsequent charging and
accessory loads will be confined to this second "battery". It is
a good practice to bring the first selected battery up to full
charge before putting it on reserve and changing to the second
battery.
Use the Master switch in 'BOTH" position only for emergency
starting when both batteries are low, or for “top off” charging
when both batteries are near full charge. When both batteries
are completely charged, transfer to either battery, keeping one
battery in reserve.
Never move the Master Switch to “OFF" while the engine is
running or the alternator diodes may be burned out.

4.1.2 CONTINUED
The engine alternator is the normal source for battery charging.
Functioning through a voltage regulator the current output is
automatically adjusted to the needs of the battery and the
demand on the system. The rate of battery charging or
discharging is indicated on the Battery Condition Indicator. If
the amp light on the engine instrument panel is on or the amp
meter indicates a discharge condition with the engine running
and all accessories off, then the alternator circuit is not
functioning properly.
4.1.3 BATTERY MAINTENANCE
When charging, the lead-acid storage battery converts electrical
energy to chemical energy. This energy is stored and released
when needed by discharging, i.e. converting the chemical energy
back into electrical energy. A potential for electrical energy
is set up between the positive and negative battery plates which
are interconnected by an electrolyte of sulfuric acid and water.
The nature of this electrolyte corresponds to the state of
battery charge in such a manner that when discharged the
electrolyte is mainly water. Since the density or specific
gravity of water and sulfuric acid are different, a measure of
the specific gravity obtained by a hydrometer gives an accurate
indication of the state of charge. Therefore, it is recommended
that specific gravity measurements be made periodically. As a
general guide the normal range for full charge is between 1.220
and 1.280. For maximum battery life the following care is
recommended. First, maintain a constant level of charge
(checking with the hydrometer) rather than allowing it to run
down repeatedly with the need for excessive recharges. This can
be accomplished by normal operation or the use of a battery
charger if the battery will remain idle for extended periods.
Maintain the electrolyte above the plates by adding water to
replace that which has been lost through evaporation. Keep the
battery clean, particularly the terminals. After scraping
corroded areas away from the terminals and battery posts, wipe
them clean with a baking soda water solution. After reconnecting
terminals protect them with a light layer of grease or gasket
compound such as "Permatex".
The batteries are located under the forward end of the quarter
berth, and can be serviced by lifting the access hatch in this
berth.
4.2 OPERATION OF 12 VOLT D.C. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Accessory loads may be selected as desired by indexing the
appropriate panel breakers to ON" so current may flow from the

4.2 CONTINUED
selected battery to the desired accessory. A circuit overload
will cause the accessory circuit breaker to "trip", i.e. the
breaker will automatically open the circuit and its handle will
flip to the "OFF" position. After correction of the fault, the
breaker may be manually indexed "ON".
4.2.1 STANDARD 12 VOLT D.C. SYSTEM
The Cabin Light switch activates power to the light branch
circuit. After it is energized the individual cabin lights, can
be turned on and off with their own switches. There are two
lights in the forward cabin, one in the head, one over the
folding table, two in the main cabin over the settee berths, one
in the, galley and one at the navigators station.
If the cabin lights start getting dim, this is fair warning that
the battery needs a charge or is getting old., Remember that you
have a battery whose charge and water level must be checked at
least once a month. If your boat is to be unused or stored for
extended periods or time, it is advisable to remove the
batteries and store them in a warm, dry location.
The Running Lights switch activates the red and green lensed
lights forward, and the white 12 point stern light aft.
When under sail at night, these are the only navigation lights
that should be shown, except for the shining of a white light on
the sails if you feel there is a real need for greater
recognition.
The Bow Light switch is for the 20 point white light on the mast
and is to be used in conjunction with the running lights when
under power or when motor sailing
The MastHead Light is a 32-point white light located on top of
the masthead that meets the international and inland rules for a
light to be used at anchor.
The Foredeck Light is mounted on the forward side of the mast
with the bow light on top and the single foredeck light shining
downward and forward. It illuminates the foredeck without
getting light into the skipper's eyes and is more "streamlined
than lights hanging down from the spreaders
4.2.2 OPTIONAL 12 VOLT D. C. ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES
There is room in the optional 12 volt D.C. control panel for six
additional branch circuit breakers. Matching breakers are
available through your local Columbia dealer. Recommended