Alternate Energy Technologies DX DRAINBACK Instruction manual

Alternate Energy Technologies
PO Box 61326
Jacksonville, FL 32236
904-781-8305
INSTALLATION
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
DX DRAINBACK

1
CONTENTS
Introduction
Basic Tools and Materials
1. Collector Location
2. Collector Orientation
3. Collector Dimensions
4. Mounting Hardware
5. Mounting Hardware Spacing
6. Pitch Pan
7. Array Mounting
8. Collector Piping
9. Collector Piping Detail
10. Sensor Mounting at Collector
11. Piping Through Roof
12. Storage Tank Placement
13. Sensor Mounting at Storage Tank
14. Drainback DX Fluid Handling System
15. Drainback DX Differential Temperature Controller
16. Drainback DX Filling and Draining
17. Drainback DX Start-Up
18. Drainback DX Maintenance
19. Operational Checklist
Systems Parts List
1
1
2
2
3
4
7
7
8
9
9
10
10
10
11
11
13
13
13
13
14
14
INTRODUCTION
We at AET would like to extend our
congratulations on your purchase of an Eagle
SunTM or Sav’n SunTM DX System. Years of
research and development backed by critical
engineering have brought you the finest solar
products you can buy. Please take time to read this
booklet thoroughly. Each step is outlined
completely and clarified by diagrams where
necessary. All questions which arise
BASIC TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Electric Drill
Drill Index (w/ ½” and ¾” Wood Bits)
Hack Saw
Tubing Cutter
Tin Snips
16’ Tape Measure
24” Level
Flashlight
Extension Cord
Slip Joint Pliers
Needle Nose Pliers
Pipe Wretches, 10” & 14”
Open End Wrenches, 9/16 & 7/16
Screw Driver 6” Flat Blade
Screw Driver 6” Philips
Wire Stripper or Knife
Wire Cutters
from this material should be answered before you attempt
installation of the system. With a little thought and careful
planning, your Eagle Sun System can be installed quickly and
easily by yourself or by a qualified plumber with a minimum
of disruption to your business or home.
“Conservation for today… Energy for tomorrow.”
Adjustable Wrenches 8”& 10
Torch and Striker
100 PSI Pressure Gage
Putty Knife
High Temperature Pipe Joint Compound
Wire Nuts or Connectors
Miscellaneous Copper Pipe & Fittings (3/4”)
Solder Flux
Emory Paper
Silicon Caulk and Roof Tar
½” I.D. and ¾” I.D. Copper Tubing & Insulation
Angle Iron
Threaded Rod, Nuts, & Washers
Stainless Screw Clamps
Thermal Adhesive
Aluminum Flashing Sheet

2
1. COLLECTOR LOCATION
Proper location and orientation of the solar
collectors is important for maximum system
efficiency. The collectors should be unshaded for
the middle six hours of the day in each month of the
year and should be located as close to the storage
tank as possible to minimize heat loss in the piping
runs. The best orientation is achieved
when the collectors are facing due south and tilted
at an angle from the horizontal of latitude + 100.
Figure 1 below shows many alternatives for
collector mounting. When roof mounting, placing
the collectors as close as possible to the peak of the
roof will make installation easier due to increased
attic access.
2. COLLECTOR ORIENTATION
Proper tilt angle for solar collectors is latitude plus
100(see latitude map). This favors the winter sun
because ambient temperatures are lower during the
winter and collector efficiency suffers. This 100
additional tilt equalizes year round performance.
Spacing can be determined from Table 1.
When collectors are mounted one behind the other,
they are spaced apart so that in the morning and
afternoon on December 21, when the sun is at its
lowest altitude, the collectors will not shade each
other and cause efficiency loss.

3
LATITUDE 250N 300N 350N 400N 450N 500N
COLLECTOR TILT 350400450500550600
A B A B A B A B A B A B
FLAT 29 96 33 113 37 145 41 145 44 145 48 145
501/12 25 83 29 93 33 113 37 132 41 133 44 141
902/12 22 74 26 82 30 77 34 110 38 115 41 118
1403/12 17 66 22 72 26 82 30 92 34 95 38 98
1804/12 14 61 18 66 22 74 26 81 30 85 34 87
2305/12 10 58 14 60 18 66 22 72 26 74 30 77
2706/12 7 58 11 58 15 61 19 66 23 68 27 70
3007/12 4 58 8 58 13 58 17 58 21 58 25 58
3408/12 0 58 5 58 9 58 13 58 17 58 22 58
3709/12 -2 58 3 58 7 58 11 58 15 58 19 58
40010/12 -4 58 0 58 4 58 8 58 13 58 17 58
43011/12 -7 58 -3 58 -2 58 6 58 10 58 14 58
45012/12 -8 58 -4 58 0 58 4 58 8 58 13 58
ROOF
PITCH
VERTICAL -44 -41 -37 -33 -29 -25
Table 1. All Lengths in inches
3. COLLECTOR DIMENSIONS
Collector Gross Area (ft2) Dimensions (in) Transparent Area (ft2) Weight (lb)
AE-21 20.87 35
3/16 x 85 3/16 19.22 74
AE-24 23.81 35
3/16 x 97 3/16 21.99 84
AE-26 25.35 47
3/16 x 77 3/16 23.65 90
AE-28 27.97 47
3/16 x 85 3/16 26.16 99
AE-32 31.91 47
3/16 x 97 3/16 29.93 113
AE-40 39.79 47
3/16 x 121 3/16 37.47 153
Tested: TUV (DIN 4757, RAPPERSWILL, ONORM M7714, FSEC, SRCC, Metropolitan Dade County, Miami Test Lab
Table 2. Collector Dimensions for AE series

4
4. MOUNTING HARDWARE
Provided in the Eagle Sun package is specially
designed mounting hardware to speed collector
installation. This hardware consists of four LOCK-
TIGHT hinge sets, four roof brackets, two rear
struts, and bolts (Figures 3, 4,and 5).
(a) After locating the mounting points from Table
1, the mounting bracket holes should be drilled.
(b) A heavy coating of sealant should be applied to
the bottom of the flashing plate, which should
fit flat against the roof. It is necessary for the
plate to slide under the above shingles to insure
proper drainage of water.
(c) The bottom of the roof bracket and the area
around the threaded rod should also be
thoroughly coated with tar sealant. When the
bracket is set in place, alignment with the
collector hinges is necessary before final
tightening of the nuts. This should be
completed before the sealant has time to set.
(d) The threaded rod is fastened through a 2’ x 6”
wood or 2” x 2” x ¼” steel angle bracket under
the roof as shown.
(e) The rear struts should be cut and drilled to
conform to Table 1. All bolts should be
tightened securely. A stainless steel washer
should be placed where the threaded rod passes
through the aluminum bracket.
It is very important that the penetrations through the
roof be well sealed. It should be carefully checked
that all bolts are coated with tar and that no leaks
are possible.
There are three acceptable ways to secure the
collector mounting brackets to the roof.
1. Spanner Mounting
2. Lag Bolt Mounting
3. J-Bolt Mounting
In spanner mounting after the brackets are positions
on the chalk line, a 3/8” hole is drilled between the
rafters. Aluminum flashing is positioned over the
hole where the top of the flashing is extended up
under the shingle above the3/8” hole and extends
down over it. Caulk is applied between the flashing
and the roof. The bracket is then positioned over
the 3/8” hole using sealant between the bracket and
the flashing. A piece of 3/8” all-thread is then
inserted through the hole. A washer and nut secures
the all-thread to the bracket (be sure the seal
underneath the washer and on top of the nut). The
all-thread rod should extend about 4” below the roof
rafters. Drill a 3/8” hole in a 2 x 4 and insert the all-
thread rod through it. The 2 x 4 should span 2
rafters. With a washer and double bolt secure the
all-thread to the 2 x 4. Tighten down until the
bracket is tightly secured to the roof. Be careful not
to over-tighten and bell out the roof underneath the
bracket. (See Figure 6)

5
Figure 6. Spanner Mounting
In lag bolt mounting you must locate the center of
the rafters along the top and bottom chalk lines.
One method is to have one man on the roof and
another in the attic. Using a hammer the man on the
roof can tap the roof and determine where it is
denser sounding. The roof man can drill a pilot hole
while the attic man helps with distance corrections.
Then the attic man can call of the distance to the
next rafter while the roof man drills corresponding
pilot holes. Flashing the brackets is done as
previously described. Secure the brackets to the
roof using a ¼” x 3” stainless lag screw, a flat
washer, and a lock washer (Figure 7).
Figure 7. Lag Bolt Mounting

6
J-bolt mounting is done very similar to lag screw
mounting except instead of drilling into the center
of a rafter, a hole must be drilled directly beside a
rafter. The size of the hole must be slightly larger
than the bolt diameter. This is more easily
accomplished if the attic man would drill a pilot
hole through the roof along side the chosen rafter.
Fit the bolt through the mounting brackets and insert
the bolt (J side first) through the hole in the roof.
Work the J underneath the rafter. Pull the J-bolt
snug against the rafter before tightening the nut.
Use double nuts or lock-washers to securely fasten
the mounting bracket to the J-bolt (Figure 8).
Figure 8. J-Bolt Mounting
5. MOUNTING HARDWARE SPACING
AE-Series Center Line to Center Line (in.)
Model Size (ft) Outside Box Dim. (in.) AE-MH AE-FM AE-RM
AE-21 3 x 7 35.1875 x 85.1875 88.4375 88.9375 86.9375
AE-24 3 x 8 35.1875 x 97.1875 100.4375 100.9375 98.9375
AE-26 4 x 6.5 47.1875 x 77.1875 80.4375 80.9375 78.9375
AE-28 4 x 7 47.1875 x 85.1875 88.4375 88.9375 86.9375
AE-32 4 x 8 47.1875 x 97.1875 100.4375 100.9375 98.9375
AE-40 4 x 10 47.1875 x 121.1875 124.4375 124.9375 122.9375
MSC-Series Center Line to Center Line (in.)
Model Size (ft) Outside Box Dim. (in.) MSC-MH MSC-FRM MSC-FM
MSC-21 3 x 7 35.8750 x 86.1250 90.5 87.375 37.125
MSC-24 3 x 8 35.8750 x 98.1250 102.5 99.375 37.125

7
MSC-26 4 x 6.5 47.8750 x 78.1250 82.5 79.375 49.125
MSC-28 4 x 7 47.8750 x 86.1250 90.5 87.375 49.125
MSC-32 4 x 8 47.8750 x 98.1250 102.5 99.375 49.125
MSC-40 4 x 10 47.8750 x 122.1250 126.5 123.375 49.125
Table 3. Distance between centerlines of top and bottom mounts for all AE and MSC series
6. PITCH PAN
The pitch pan is necessary any time standing water
is encountered (Figure 9). The purpose is to provide
an adequate seal around any penetration in the roof.
(a) The pitch pan is placed in the proper position
and flat on the roof.
(b) Its flange is sealed with roofing felt and hot tar.
(c) The holes are sealed on the inside with roofing
tar to a sufficient level to insure a permanent
seal.
Figure 9

8
7. ARRAY MOUNTING
Tile roofs are a little more difficult to mount
solar collectors on but following this procedure will
render a leak free installation.
The solar panels are mounted on two rails
located at the top and bottom of the solar collectors.
The collectors are secured to the rails using the AE
rack mount hardware (AE-RM). The 1 5/8”
Aluminum unistrut rails are anchored to the roof by
usuing six or ten inch stainless stell 3/8” hanger
bolts. These bolts are lag screw on the bottom and
3/8 NPT thread on the top. A ten foot length of
unistrut should be anchored at three points, the
middle and both ends.
Procedure
a) Cut 12” x 12” square pieces of lead flashing.
b) Locate the roof rafters beneath the tile where
the hanger bolts will be attached. Drill a 3/8”
hole through the tile.
c) Slide the 12” x 12” lead flashing under the tile
located above the 3/8” hole, then drill through
the lead flashing into the hole.
d) Screw lag portion of the 3/8” hanger bolt into
the rafter.
e) Cut strips of the lead flashing about 1 ½” long
and wide enough that when you fold it into a
tube is slightly larger in diameter as the hanger
bolt.
f) Using an acid core solder, weld the seam of the
tube together.
g) Slip this tube over the top of the hanger bolt
protruding from the roof, then solder it to the
12” x 12” lead flashing.
h) Thread down a stainless 3/8” nut to the bottom
of the thread and seal the top of lead tube to the
nut with a polybutalene caulk. Slip a 3/8”
stainless washer on top o the nut.
i) Place the 1 5/8” aluminum unistrut rail on the
hanger bolt and secure with another 3/8”
stainless washer and net.
The rail is now secured, weather tight to the tile
roof. Next, mount the AET solar collector to the
rail using the AE rack mounts (AE-RM). See
Figure 10.
Figure 10

9
8. COLLECTOR PIPING
All collectors and piping must be sloped a minimum
of ¼” per foot for drainage. All piping must drain
without any fluid “traps.” Soldered connections
should be made with 95/5 solder.
The piping of the system should be considered
before a final decision is made on how the
collectors are mounted. Piping should be made of
not less than ¾” I.D. copper tube of the type
meeting local codes, insulated with Armaflex or
similar, and painted or wrapped with aluminum tape
where exposed to ultraviolet radiation.
Figure 11 Figure 12
9. COLLECTOR PIPING DETAIL
The outlets of the collector are ¾” copper nipples
(Figure 13). They should be piped as shown.
Figure 13
REDUCING
COUPLING

10
10. SENSOR MOUNTING AT COLLECTOR
The controller heat sensor is mounted to the nipple
outlet of the collector (Figures 14). A stainless steel
screw clamp should be used. The entire nipple
should be wrapped thoroughly with insulating tape
so that the sensor is isolated from the outside air.
Figure 14
11. PIPING THROUGH THE ROOF
Piping through the roof should be weatherproofed
as shown in Figure 15.
(a) One inch holes are drilled through the roof on
the same plane as the supply and return header
nipples. Do not drill the hole above the supply
header of the collector. This will prevent the
collector from draining. Placing the hole below
the supply header is acceptable, but it is more
aesthetic if it is located on the same plane
(b) A copper flashing is placed around the hole
with its base cemented to the roof and its upper
edges slid under the adjoining shingle.
(c) The copper tube supply and return line is then
pushed up through the hole in the flashing.
(d) A “coolie cap” is then slid over the copper tube
till it meets the flashing. After piping to the
collectors is completed, the “coolie cap” is
soldered to the copper tube.
(e) Polybutalyne adhesive is then placed on the top
and bottom of the flashing, providing a
weatherproof seal. The sensor wire should also
be run through the return flashing.
Figure 15
12. STORAGE TANK PLACEMENT
To minimize expense and heat loss, the tank should
be placed near the collectors and central to points of
greatest water demand. It should be located in as
warm a spot as possible. It should be located with
adequate ventilation, with a minimum of 6-8 inches
of clearance and with ready access to controls and
serviceable parts.
Provision should be made to prevent water damage
in case of leakage. A catch pan with a minimum of
¾” drain line at least 2” in height may be installed
and pitched for proper drainage. Electrical service
of 240V should be available for the element and
110V for the pump and controller.

11
13. SENSOR MOUNTING AT STORAGE TANK
On the American Appliance open loop tanks the
heat sensor is located behind the bottom front cover
Procedure:
1.) Remove the two screws that secure the bottom
cover to the tank.
2.) Remove the fiberglass insulation until the shell
of the tank is visible.
3.) Locate the ¼” threaded stud and nut and the
two sensor wires that were factory run from the
top of the tank.
4.) Remove the ¼” nut from the stud and place the
10 K snsors on the stud. Secure it with the nut.
5.) Attach the wires on the sensor to the factory run
wires. Note: it does not matter which wire is
attached to the other.
6.) Replace the insulation and bottom cover.
14. DRAINBACK FLUID HANDLING SYSTEM
The drainback system is a non-pressurized closed
loop system. There are two variations available, the
“Eagle SunTM” and the “Sav’n SunTM” DX. The
“Eagle SunTM” system utilizes a closed loop Rheem
tank with a wrap-around heat exchanger. The
“Sav’n SunTM” DX system utilizes an open loop
solar storage tank with a heat exchanger inside the
drainback reservoir.
The “Sav’n SunTM” DX Drainback System
(Figure 16)
This system is comprised to the following
components:
•Two pumps (CP-009F and CP-003) and flange
(Optional: Substitute CP-009F with CP-008F)
•One storage tank (OST-80TCE)
•One differential controller (DTC-GL30)
•One drainback reservoir with heat exchanger
(DB-10-10X)
Two fill valves (½” boiler drains) are installed on
the inlet to the heat exchanger and one on the top of
the drainback reservoir. A hose is attached to the
drain valve on the inlet to the heat exchanger. The
other drain valve located at the top of the reservoir
is opened to allow air to escape. The system is then
filled with water through the inlet to the heat
exchanger. This way water first fills the heat
exchanger then fills the drainback reservoir. You
want to fill the reservoir unit the water level reaches
the top of the site glass. At this point both drain
valves are closed and the water is shut off. It is
important that the system be filled in this manner to
prevent the heat exchanger from becoming air
locked.
When the differential control turns the pump on,
water is pulled from the reservoir and circulated up
through the solar collectors and back. This
circulated water heats the heat exchanger, which in
turn heats the water in the solar storage tank. When
the pump shuts off, all the water in the solar
collectors is drained back into the reservoir.
It is important to slope the lines going to and
coming back form the collectors so water is able to
drain. It is recommended to maintain a ¼” slope per
foot. The pipe should never run uphill. Some
installations may require a horizontal run of these
pipes. In these situations a gallon of propylene
glycol can be added to the reservoir. If the
drainback reservoir is located in an unconditioned
space that experiences hard freeze, once again, a
gallon of propylene glycol can be added.

12
Figure 16. Drainback System with DX Reservoir.

13
15. DRAINBACK DIFFERENTIAL TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER
See instructions provided with controller in box. ALL CONNECTIONS SHOULD BE MADE IN
ACCORDANCE WITH LOCAL ELECTRICAL
CODES!
Specifications:
OPERATING VOLTAGE
105 to 125 vac, 60 Hertz
CONTROL RELAY CONTACT RATING
One third HP inductive load.
TURN-ON DIFFERENTIAL
100F (+10F) for Storage Sensor at 1350F
TURN-OFF DIFFERENTIAL
50F (+10F) for Storage Sensor at 1350F
SENSOR MATCHING ACCURACY
10F or less at 1350F
MAXIMUM SENSOR TEMPERATURE
3000F
Figure 17
16. FILLING AND DRAINING THE DX RESERVOIR
Filling the “Sav’n SunTM” DX Reservoir:
1.) Open fill valves “A” and “B”
2.) Open gate valve “A” and close gate valve “B”
3.) Attach hose to fill valve “A”
4.) Fill reservoir to the top of the site glass
5.) Shut off fill valves “A” and “B”
6.) Remove fill hose
7.) Open gate valve “B”
Draining the “Sav’n SunTM” DX Reservoir
1.) Shut off controller and wait until all water is
back in reservoir
2.) Attach hose to fill valve “A”
3.) Open fill valve “B”
4.) Open fill valve “A” (fill valve “B” MUST be
open first)
When filling the potable water side of the DX
system be sure to open the hot water faucet in the
bath tub to release the air from the system.
17. DRAINBACK DX START-UP
After installation and final inspection, the system
should be filled and checked for leaks for ½ hour.
(see Figure 20). To charge the system:
a) Connect hose to fill valve A.
b) Open fill valves A and B.
c) SLOWLY Fill the system with water until
water reaches to the top of the site glass.
d) Close fill valves A & B.
e) Turn on pump and let run for 5 minutes
f) Check for leaks at collectors and in attic.
g) Switch controller to automatic mode.
If the sun is shining and the tank is cool, the pump
should turn on and the water should circulate. The
return lines from the collectors should be hotter than
the inlet lines and the collector glass should be
slightly warmer than ambient temperature.
18. DRAINBACK DX MAINTENANCE
Maintenance of a drainback system is minimal. The
storage tank should be partially drained every 6
months to allow minerals to be removed preventing
scale build up (this is recommended for all water
heaters).
The collector glass should be kept clean for best
system performance. Rain water will usually
suffice, but a garden hose can be used during dry,
dusty weather.

14
19. OPERATIONAL CHECKLIST
Before the system is turned on, the piping and
electrical systems should be evaluated to see if they
match the supplied drawings. If you are satisfied
that the system is installed correctly, it should be
filled and powered according to the preceding
instructions. When the system is in the operational
mode, care should be taken to check all piping for
leaks and to make sure sufficient insulation has been
used to provide maximum system efficiency. All
modes of operation should be checked by the
installer to assure proper functioning under all
conditions.
TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Problems with systems usually fall under two
categories: system leaks or lack of sufficient solar
heated water.
LEAKS
If leaks exist the system should be shut down for
repairs. Make sure the electrical circuit to the
controller is off. Close off the cold water inlet or in
case of a leak in the closed loop system, isolate as
much of the system as possible and then drain and
repair the affected area.
There is a possibility that what appears to be leaks
may be condensation on the pipes. Also water
escaping for the T & P valve may be an indication
of proper function as they are designed to vent off
excess temperature and pressure.
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER
If insufficient hot water is available a system
malfunction may not be indicated. A low amount of
solar radiation or heavy water demand can be the
cause.
If no excessive demands are put on the system and
ample solar radiation is available, the system should
operate properly. The pump should run each sunny
day until a full supply of hot water is stored. If the
pump does not run, there is a problem on the
electrical end of the system. Either the pump,
controller, or sensors are malfunctioning. The
controller can be bypassed by running a power cable
directly to the pump and checking its function
separate from the control system. Make sure that
the problem is not a blown fuse or a tripped breaker.
If the pump runs normally when powered
externally, the control circuit is the problem area.
Eagle Sun controllers use thermistor sensors to
determine modes of operation. A controller tester is
available from AET for checking differential
function. Check sensor wiring. If no faulty wiring
can be discovered, replace sensors.
If the pump is running all the time, even when the
collectors are cool, then the storage sensor or
collector sensor may be open. It is also possible that
the sensor wire itself is at fault. To check this, test
the continuity with an ohm meter. Be sure to
disconnect the sensor when performing this test.
Test the wire with both ends open, then retest often
twisting the 2 sensor wires together at one end. The
system can be set on a timer or switched on
manually until the controller is properly
functioning.
OTHER PROBLEMS
A noisy pump is an indication of worn bearings
obstruction or loss of prime. As a rule of thumb
about 8 to 12 degrees should be expected as a
normal gain across a collector in bright sun at
proper flow rate.
SYSTEM PARTS LIST
Solar Collectors
Set of Mounting Hardware for each collector
Hot Water Storage Tank
High-head Pump
Pump Flanges
Low-head Pump (on DX Systems only)
Differential Temperature Controller
Controller Sensors
Drainback Reservoir
Installation Manual