ANK L3 Phono Stage V2 Instructions for use
Copyright © 2019 ANK Audio Kits
www.AudioNoteKits.com
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Table of Contents
Section 1 —Introduction ……………………………………………..………………………….…………………… 5
1.1 About ANK Audio Kits ……………………………………………..………………………….…………………… 6
1.2 Basic Operation of the Phono Stage …………………….………………………………..…………… 7
1.2.1 Overview ………………………………….……………………………………………..…………… 7
1.2.2 Component Placement ………………………………….……..……………………………………… 8
1.3 Equipment ……………………………..………………………….………………………………………………… 9
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit ………………………………………….…………….………….…………… 9
1.4 Tips and Suggestions …………………………………………………….…………..…………………………… 9
1.4.1 Soldering …………………………………………………….……….….…………………………… 9
1.4.2 Components ……………………….…………………………….……………………………………… 10
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes ……………………………………………….……….………………….………………… 10
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings ………………………………………… 10
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………………… 10
1.4.6 Diodes ………………………………………….……………………………..………………………………… 11
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical ………………………………………………………………………………… 11
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning …………………………………………………………………… 11
1.4.9 Wire Color ……………………………………………………..……………….……………………… 12
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches …………………………..……………….……………………… 12
1.5 Build Process …………………………………………………………………………….…………………..………… 12
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Phono Stage …….………… 12
1.5.2 Organization of this Manual ………………………………………………………..…….…… 13
1.5.3 Electrical Safety Warning …………………………………….…………………..………… 15
Section 2 —Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring …… 16
2.1 Overview …………………………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 16
2.2 Installing the Feet ……………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 17
2.3 Installing the Choke …………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 19
2.4 Installing the Chassis Ground ……………………………………………………………………..…….…… 23
2.5 Installing the IEC Socket and Rocker Switch …………………………………………..…….…… 24
2.6 Mains Transformer Preparation ……………………..……………………………………….…… 25
2.6.1 Attaching the Ground Lug …………………………………………………………………… 27
2.7 Configuring the Mains Primary Winding …................................………………………… 27
2.8 Initial Mains Secondary Wiring ………………………………………………………………………………… 31
2.9 Installing the Mains Transformer and AC Connections ………………………………………… 32
2.10 Shield Positioning ….................................................................……………………………………… 38
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Section 3 —M2 Power Supply Board ………………………………….…………………….…………… 41
3.1 Overview ………………………………………….…………………………………………………………….…… 41
3.2 Installing the Valve Bases …………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 43
3.3 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 45
3.4 Installing the 6V2 Wires…………………………………………………………..……………………………….…… 48
3.5 Installing the Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 50
3.6 Installing the Bridge Rectifier ……………………………………………………………….…..…..…….…… 51
3.7 Installing the Zener Diode …………………………………………………..……..….….…… 52
3.8 Filament Section ……………………………………………………………………………….………….…… 53
3.8.1 Installing the Regulators and Heatsinks …………………………………………...…………… 54
3.8.2 Installing the Remaining Capacitors …………………………………………...…………… 55
3.9 Additional Wiring …………………………………………………………………………………........….…… 57
3.9.1 Connecting to the Mains Transformer and Choke ……………….……………… 60
Section 4 —M2 Power Supply Testing ………………………………………………….….……………..…66
4.1 Installing the Mains Fuse ……………………………………………….…………...………………...…… 66
4.2 Installing the LED Indicator ……………………………………………………………...……………….…… 67
4.3 Installing the Tubes …………………………………………………………………………….…………..….…… 67
4.4 Tidying Up …………………………………………………………………………….……………………..…….…… 67
4.5 Ohm Check ………………………………………………………………………………………..……..………...…… 68
4.6 Electrical Testing …………………………………………………………………………………..………..…… 68
4.7 Voltage Check Summary ……………………………………………………………………..…….…….…71
4.7.1 DC Voltage Checks ……………………………………………………………………..………..…… 71
4.7.2 AC Voltage Checks ……………………………………………………………………..…….…….…71
4.8 Last Steps ………………………………………………………………………………………………..…….…….… 71
Section 5 —Phono Stage Board ……………………………………………………………….….……………..… 73
5.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 73
5.2 Installing the Valve Bases …………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 75
5.3 Installing the Resistors ……………………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 76
5.4 Installing the Capacitors ………………………………………………………………………..…….…… 77
5.5 Connections from the M2 Power Supply Board ……………………………………………..…….…… 80
5.6 Installing the LED ……………………..…………………………………..………..…………………………… 85
Section 6 —Phono Stage IO Connections …………………………………….….……………..… 86
6.1 Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………..….………..…….…… 86
6.2 Installing the RCA Jacks ………………………...............................…………………………….…… 88
6.3 Installing the Ground Jack ………………………………………………...............………………….…… 89
6.4 Installing the MM Input Connections ………………………………………………………………….…… 90
6.5 Installing the Output Connections ………………………………………………………………….…… 94
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Section 7 —Testing ……………………….…………………………………………………….…………….. 96
7.1 Installing the Tubes ........................................................................................................................ 96
7.2 Turn-on ........................................................................................................................................ 97
7.3 Debugging ........................................................................................................................................ 97
Section 8 —Finishing Touches ……………………..…………..……………….……..……………...………… 99
8.1 Installing the Front Faceplate ………..…………………………………....……….…………………………… 99
8.2 Installing the Chassis Top ………..……………………………….…………….…………………………… 99
Section 9 —Final Thoughts ……………………..……………..…………………………………...………… 100
9.1 Congratulations ……………………..…………………………....……………....…………………………… 100
9.2 Cables …………………………………..………………………….………..………………..……………………...………… 100
9.3 Tube Rolling ……………………..………………………….………..………………..……………………...………… 101
9.3.1 12AX7 ……………………..…………………..……….……………………….…..………………..…………… 101
9.3.2 6922 ……………………..…………………..……….…………………………...………………..…………… 101
9.3.3 6X5 ……………………..…………………………………………………….…………………….…………… 101
9.3.4 ECL82 ……………………..…………………………………………………….…………………….…………… 102
9.4 Thanks ……………………..…………………………………………………..……………...…….…………….………….… 102
Appendix ……………………………………………..………………………………………….……………..….………….…… 103
A.1 World Mains Voltages Wiring Diagrams ……………………….….…………………..…….…… 103
A.2 Resistor Color Code Reference ………………………………………………….…..………………….…….…… 110
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Section 1
Introduction
Thanks for purchasing the ANK Audio Kits L3 Phono Stage V2. Our goal is to provide you with
the highest quality kit that you will build from scratch with these instructions.
This is very high end and sophisticated piece of audio equipment that will surely become a
showpiece of your sound system. We're excited that you have chosen to join us in enjoying and
appreciating superb audio and we've created this manual to help guide you through each step
of the assembly process with as much detail and clarity as possible. To facilitate the build
process, the manual has been divided into a number of sections, each focusing on a separate
aspect of the system: follow the sections in order and we guarantee you not only a problem-
free experience, but a pleasant time doing so. If you are new to building kits, or if at any time
you feel as though you need help or advice, feel free to contact us and we will do whatever it
takes to get you on the right track.
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1.1 About ANK Audio Kits
Audio Note (UK) started out in the early '90s developing several DIY audio kits while they were
building up their finished product business. DIY Audio has a long history and it was an
opportunity for knowledgeable customers to take advantage of world class designs and
components. Audio Note (UK) was focused on using the very finest materials and components
custom-made to their specifications, across their entire product line —from custom film and
electrolytic capacitors to tantalum resistors, transformers, binding posts, wires, etc. The Kit1
300B Single Ended integrated amplifier was born during development of the Meishu and it
proved to be extremely popular worldwide. The ANKit business was born!
As the finished product business and dealer network started to flourish, Audio Note (UK)
eventually moved the kit business off into a separate division; thus, in 2004, Audio Note Kits
started up and was supported by a website so that customers not located near Audio Note (UK)
dealers could order kits and have them shipped direct. Kit development continued in earnest
during the 2000s with development assisted by Audio Note (UK) engineering. Audio Note (UK)
parts were used throughout the kits, depending on the various levels and budgets. By 2013,
ANK Audio Kits (as it came to be called) had developed a wide product range covering all areas
of two channel audio: a single-ended 300B product line, an EL34 classAB and single-ended
product line, digital to analog converters, pre-amplifiers, Phono stages, and Audio Note (UK)
speaker kits. The end result today is that customers worldwide with DIY skills can now build
an entire high end audio system to their liking. With the introduction of higher levels in 2013
and the release of the Level 5 Mentor Pre-amplifier and the DAC 5.1 Signature, some customers
wanted these high end products assembled by a professional builder. As a result, ANK Audio
Kits began offering this service for Level 4 and 5 products so that a significant investment in a
kit could be turned into a work of art! Since ANK Audio Kits was born in 2004, over 2,500 kits
have been shipped to customers worldwide. Clearly, there is a real demand for high end audio
kits and ANK Audio Kits has been delivering the goods now for 15 years.
We believe and hope that you will have a great experience building your kit and we look
forward to hearing from you about your experience.
Regards,
Brian Smith —Director ANK Audio Kits
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1.2 Basic Operation of the Phono Stage
1.2.1 Overview
The ANK Audio Kits L3 Phono V2 is a development of one of our longest running products with a
significant following. Responding to customer requests for a Phono stage that uses standard
NOS tubes like the 12AX7 and 6922, the L3 Phono Stage V2 is a breeze to build and delivers
superb sound quality with incredibly quiet operation and no special tube matching required.
Design Elements
Our highly acclaimed and upgraded M2 Power Supply is an enhanced PCB version of the
original M2 Power Supply taken from Audio Note (UK)’s finished products line. It uses a Mains
transformer and Choke combination with a 6X5 for tube rectification and an ECL82 for
regulation of its HT supply. This latest version uses vertical heatsinks, Mundorf MLytic
capacitors, Rubycon electrolytics, and Takman 1W resistors. We believe the M2 Power Supply
provides an excellent quality/value ratio —it has also proved itself in terms of both its
reliability and sonic virtues many times over in our other product lines. Critically, for
listening to vinyl, it delivers ultra quiet power supply voltages.
The Phono stage uses the best RIAA components, including Takman metal film non-magnetic
resistors, a Mundorf EVO oil film bypass capacitor, four Audio Note (UK) Copper Foil
capacitors, four Elna SILMIC cathode bypass capacitors, and four Rel-Caps. The circuit has a
similar architecture to the L3 Phono V1 with a high gain input stage followed by passive RIAA
and no feedback, followed by an output driver tube. The sound is classic vinyl.
With the L3 Phono V2 you can build a quiet Phono stage with no tube rush, zero hum, and a
pure black background. We use our specially terminated ground cables for a perfect hum free
Phono stage. We cut, trim, twist, and terminate all the required cables for your build using
high quality Silver Plated Teflon hookup wire. The Phono Stage board also supports large film
capacitor locations for the four critical signal path locations.
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1.2.2 Component Placement
Here’s a completed L3 Phono Stage V2
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1.3 Equipment
Here is the list of equipment that will be required:
Philips screwdriver
A pair of quality wire strippers
A large, organized work area
Soldering iron station with wet sponge
Lead-based solder (4% Silver is recommended)
1.3.1 Overview of the Kit
In your kit you will find a series of kit bags containing all the hardware, wire, and parts for the
associated sections of the amplifier. See the Parts List files on the disk to match up the parts in
the kit bags with the lists. There is also a Master list for the kit.
1.4 Tips and Suggestions
We have learned a lot about kit building over the last decade from our customers and I'd like to
share some tips with you to ensure a successful project. Please read through this section
thoroughly, it will give you a good idea of what's ahead and help ensure your success!
1.4.1 Soldering
We highly recommend using lead-based solder with some silver content1on the build. You
should use lead-free ONLY if you are experienced using it and confident. Lead-free solder
requires a higher melting temperature and thus is more difficult to use. We don’t recommend
lead-free solder for first-time builders.
We suggest that you practice your soldering before starting on the kit. Feel free to request
practice parts with your kit so that you can practice tinning wires and making nice solder
joints. The key is a good soldering station with a sponge, the right temperature, a good size tip,
and experience; remember, tips can wear out so make sure your tip is working. (You can also
check out YouTube videos for soldering lessons and examples.) The solder should flow freely; if
it’s forming balls then there is likely a problem with the tip, the temperature, or (sometimes)
the surface. Feel free to contact us for help!
1For example, WBT-0800.
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1.4.2 Components
Using the Ohm setting on your multimeter is very useful when building a kit. It's a good,
practical way of measuring resistors and continuity and is much easier than reading the color
codes on the side. (With practice, the color codes can also be a good way to determine the
resistance, but that method is better left to experienced builders.)
1.4.3 Resistor Sizes
Resistors today, particularly metal film resistors, are often smaller than you might expect. It
used to be that the difference between a 1/2W and a 1W resistor was obvious: the 1W was
considerably larger. That way of looking at things sometimes now no longer applies. Please be
assured that all resistors supplied with ANK Audio Kits are rated at least per the specified
wattage: in some cases, a higher than specified wattage may be supplied.
1.4.4 Capacitor Manufacturers and Voltage Ratings
Occasionally, depending on parts availability, we may use capacitors from different
manufacturers. These will always be of equal or higher quality! As a result, some of the
pictures in the manual may look a bit different at times. With regard to voltage ratings,
normally, the voltage rating of the supplied capacitors will be exactly what you see on the
parts lists. Occasionally, a part may be supplied with a higher voltage. Think nothing of it!
1.4.5 Electrolytic Capacitors
For those who have not built a piece of electronics before, here is a little lesson on capacitors.
There are basically two types of capacitors that we use in the kits: electrolytic and signal
capacitors. Of these, electrolytic capacitors require special attention. Electrolytic capacitors
are “polarized,” which means they have a POSITIVE (+) and a NEGATIVE (–) lead and typically
have values like 100uf 450V, 10uf 160V, or 470uf 35V.
These capacitors need to be installed
correctly or else they will possibly blow up at some point!
Each electrolytic capacitor will have a
wide stripe
on the NEGATIVE side. Always ensure that
this stripe (NEGATIVE) is positioned correctly. There are several keys on a printed circuit
board to help you to know how to position the capacitor:
1. There may be a "+" on the board indicating where to position the POSITIVE lead.
2. The segmented half of the circular stencil on the board shows where to position the
NEGATIVE lead. The unsegmented ('half-moon') part of the circle is where the POSITIVE
lead goes.
3. The POSITIVE lead goes to a square solder pad while the NEGATIVE lead goes to a round
solder pad.
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1.4.6 Diodes
When installing diodes note that they are oriented with a stripe —
match the stripe on the
diode with the banding (||) stencil on the board.
1.4.7 Hardware/Mechanical
Not all of us are mechanically oriented. So, the kit is well laid out such that all the hardware is
provided and bagged in individual sections, so things should make sense. Start thinking
mechanically because about a third of the kit is mechanical. The first thing to remember is
that good hardware is beautiful: we use all stainless steel metric hardware in the kits. It truly
is a thing of beauty: don’t rush your hardware! Here are a few helpful things to understand:
We use British metric hardware (M3, M4, M5, screw size 10mm, 15mm, etc..) as opposed
to the American imperial system (5/1000th or 50/1000th, 1 inch, 3/4 inch). Please
familiarize yourself with the hardware in the kit.
The screws will be called M3 or M4, which is the diameter of the shaft. The length of the
shaft will be in millimeters, so you will encounter things like an M4 screw 16mm, a PAN
head screw (which is a round spherical head), or a COUNTERSUNK or FLAT head screw
(a screw head that needs to be flush with a surface —for example, under a
transformer). So if you are asked to use an M3 16mm CSK screw, this is an M3 size
(obviously), which is a thinner shaft diameter than an M4; 16mm is the length of the
shaft; and the head type is CSK, which is a countersunk or flat head screw.
Once you have the screws mastered, look at the matching nuts such as M4 nut or M3 nut
and corresponding washers.
Standoffs are common in the kits (again, they are either M3 or M4 size, with different
lengths). They are typically threaded, so the screw goes into them.
If any of the hardware is confusing or something is not fitting right, please email us.
1.4.8 Wire Stripping and Tinning
When it comes to wires, we typically use 18 gauge (thicker) and 22 gauge in the kits. It's PTFE:
Teflon silver-plated copper wire. Basically this is classed as hook-up wire; we typically twist
wire for you when it needs to be. The other wire we use is called shielded cable, like an AN-A
(Audio Note (UK)) for signals. This is two-conductor wire: one is for the signal and the other (a
big ground braid wrapped around the signal wire) is the shielding, which helps prevent the
cable from picking up noise. You should practice stripping some 18g or 22g wire, and then try
tinning this wire; this is the process of adding solder to the bare wire so that the invisible
coating on the wire is burned off. This makes for easy soldering to a PCB, an RCA connector, or
a transformer terminal. So it's a good idea to practice this a little before starting the kit.
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1.4.9 Wire Color
In the earlier sections of this manual, particularly those sections dealing with the Mains
transformer and Choke wires, the colors of the wires should match the color of the wires in
your kit. If they don't, or if you're unsure about things, contact audionotekits@rogers.com.
Later on, at the Interwiring stage, there may be some differences between the descriptions (or
pictures) of the color of wires that you will connect and the color of the wires supplied with
your kit; for example, depending on inventory, we may supply a Black–Red twisted pair instead
of a Green–Red (or vice-versa). Don't worry! Just be sure to check the wiring diagrams
carefully and connect the correct points together and all will be well!
1.4.10 Optional Finishing Touches
From time to time we get asked about some of the build details of the ANK Finished Products
that you can see in the pictures in the "Assembled Kits Gallery!" (https://ankits.smugmug.com/)
on our website. It's important to understand that these stunningly beautiful products were
done by an accomplished professional builder with decades of experience and that some
particulars of the build may be beyond most of us. However, experienced builders who want to
incorporate some of these finishing touches should feel free to do so. While we don't officially
support or supply parts for these optional enhancements, there's no reason why you couldn't
or shouldn't do them if you want to and feel that you can handle them. Without getting into the
details (you're on your own here), what you'll want to get hold of are: heatshrink (to bundle
wires), cable ties (to secure large capacitors), stacked (male/female) standoffs and cable
clamps (to elevate and secure signal cables), and cable sleeving. You can get some of these
from your local hardware store (for example, 1/4" Cable Clamps) and other, more specialized,
parts from online distributors such as Grainger, Digi-Key, Mouser, or Cable Ties and More. If
you do decide to dress your build with some of these, please send us a picture or two. We'd love
to see what you did!
1.5 Build Process
1.5.1 Some Good Rules of Thumb for Building Your Phono Stage
Take your time, prepare, and try and work on a small task each time you start to build
the kit.
Instead of rushing through another section —use the end of your session to check your
work. Always ask yourself if the step you are performing makes sense.
Have fun with your build and savour the experience. Take the time to do a really good
job!
Feel free to contact us via email audionotekits@rogers.com if you have any questions
or suggestions during your build —and feel free to send us pictures, etc. We'd be
pleased to give you tips along the way.
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1.5.2 Organization of this Manual
We have divided the build and the manual into the following sections:
1. Introduction
2. Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring
3. M2 Power Supply
4. M2 Power Supply Testing
5. Phono Stage Board
6. Phono Stage IO Connections
7. Testing
8. Finishing Touches
9. Final Thoughts
Appendix
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Here's another way of looking at how the manual is organized and how the sections fit into the 'big
picture': the main sections are mapped so that they mirror how the components will be positioned in the
Phono Stage chassis:
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1.5.3 Electrical Safety Warning
Please be aware of proper electrical safety.
There are sufficient voltages in this kit to give you a very nasty and harmful shock, so be
careful when powering on, debugging, and probing around.
Please contact ANK Audio Kits via phone or email (audionotekits@rogers.com) to discuss any
precautions necessary when building the kit if you feel unsure about what you are doing at
any stage of the build.
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Section 2
Mechanical Assembly and Initial Mains Transformer Wiring
2.1 Overview
In this section we will install the feet, IEC socket, rocker switch, and the Choke, as well as make
the important initial connections to the Mains transformer and install it in the chassis.
When you receive the kit you will have a series of kit bags. In the following sections we'll be
using the:
Hardware bag (made up of individual bags for each section of the kit)
IEC bag (containing the Rocker Switch, IEC and premade cables, fuses, etc.)
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2.2 Installing the Feet
Let's start by installing the feet on the chassis —this will make it easier to work with as we
install the transformers, Choke, etc.
Turn the chassis upside down.
Take a foot and insert an M4 screw with washer into the foot —it’ll be tight but push it in.
Install each foot in the hole in the chassis closest to the corner and secure it with an M4 nut
on the inside of the chassis. Don't overtighten the screw; you could damage the foot.
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When completed your feet will look like the picture below. You're on your way!
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2.3 Installing the Choke
We're about to start on the first major section of the Power Supply, including the installation of
the Choke, the chassis ground, IEC, and rocker switch, and the preparation of the Mains.
Let's begin by installing the Choke. This looks simple, but given the tight clearance between the
Choke and the back of the chassis, it can be a bit frustrating. Here's a suggested way to go
about it:
Arrange for good lighting from above so that you can see well, especially towards the rear
of the chassis.
Neatly lay out the necessary hardware close at hand:
4 M4 screws
4 M4 washers
4 M4 Keps K-Lock Nuts (these are M4 nuts with attached locking washers)
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Turn the chassis right side up.
Take the Choke —which is marked CH-180 underneath —and hold it in one hand in mid air
while you install the four M4 screws and washers from above into the four holes on the
base of the Choke, so that you can then insert the whole unit into the chassis.
Table of contents
