Baby Lock A-LINE Lauren BL450A Assembly instructions

Model BL450A
Getting to Know:
A-LINE SERIES
Baby Lock Consumer Helpline: 800-313-4110
www.babylock.com

Model BL450A
Introducing Lauren, the easy-to-use serger from the Baby Lock A-Line series of sewing
machines. Lauren loves to give projects a finished look with reinforced stitches and
decorative edging. Practical and steady, Lauren will make sure every thread stays in place
with a professional look.
This Getting to Know You Guide will take you through a simple, step-by-step process on how
to thread your serger and set tension dials for balanced stitches. Once you’re familiar with
your machine, refer to the instruction and reference guide (packaged with your machine) for
additional directions.
Like all machines in the A-Line Series, Lauren has the features and the durability to handle all
of your projects – you can always count on her to be there for you. Be sure to ask your Baby
Lock Retailer about Lauren’s friends in the A-Line Series, like Audrey, Natalie and Grace.
From classic tailored looks to modern-day fashions, the machines in the A-Line Series will
help you sew and serge with success – all with the quality you’ve come to expect from
Baby Lock.

Setting Up Your Serger
Thread Spools
Threading Your Serger
Extension Bar
Thread Sequence
When threading, it’s important to consider the type of thread you use for serging. Remember, a serger creates
a finished look with reinforced stitches, so strong thread is an important ingredient. A top quality, long staple,
polyester or poly/cotton blend is the best choice. Skipped stitches and broken threads are often the direct result
of using old or inferior thread.
Serger cone thread is designed for serging and feeds
freely from the top. When using decorative threads, a
spool net may be needed. Regular thread spools can
also be used if you insert a spool cap from the accessory
packet into the top of the spool. The spool cap forms a
smooth edge, allowing the thread to feed off evenly.
New owners may be apprehensive about threading the
serger. It’s much easier than it appears. In fact, there
are two methods for threading your serger: Tying-on
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method, but manual threading is almost as quick. It’s a
good idea to practice threading your serger manually. At
some point in time, you will need to re-thread a looper or
all of the thread paths and the time to learn is NOT in the
middle of a sewing project! Practice now, and you’ll be
serging with confidence in no time.
1. Pull the extension bar up as far as it will go.
2. Rotate the thread guide hanger so that the thread
guides are right above the spool pins.
3. Place the cone thread or spools on spool pins.
The thread guides and tension dials are color-coded,
and a color-coded threading diagram is located inside
the front cover of the serger. Proper threading sequence
is the most important rule to remember when threading
your serger:
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Stopper Right
Needle
Thread
Left
Needle
Thread
Upper
Looper
Thread
Lower
Looper
Thread
Back view
Extension Bar Thread Guide Hanger
1

Manual Threading
Threading the Upper Looper
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thread guides.
1. Pass thread through top thread guide hanger from back to
front.
2. Bring thread down and pass through thread guide and
under pretension disc.
3. Bring thread straight down through the slot so that it
passes between the tension discs. Give the thread a tug
to be sure it is secure between the tension discs.
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9. Use tweezers to pass thread through the upper looper eye
from front to back. Pull at least 3 inches (7cm) of thread
through the upper looper.
1
2
4
5
6
8
9
7

2
4
5
6
8
9
7

Manual Threading
Threading the Lower Looper
A. Pass thread through top thread guide hanger from
back to front.
B. Bring thread down and pass through the thread guide
and under pre-tension disc.
C. Bring thread straight down through the slot so that it
passes between the tension discs. Give the thread a
tug to be sure it is lodged between the tension discs.
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the left.
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toward the left.
G. Turn handwheel toward you until the lower looper is
in extreme left side position. Pass thread through hole
using the tweezers.
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right position. Use the tweezers to pass thread
through lower looper eye, front to back. Pull at least
3 inches (7cm) of thread through lower looper over
upper looper and toward the back of the machine.
Remove the free arm cover and thread the lower looper thread as illustrated below.
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A
D
E
F
B
C
G
H
Remove free arm cover by swinging the extension table out
with the lever in locked position. The free arm cover will stay
attached to the extension table.
3
G

Manual Threading
Threading the Right Needle
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marked thread guides.
a-c. Refer to steps 1-3 in threading upper looper thread.
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g. Position thread into right side opening of guide.
h. Pass thread behind right side of guide plate.
i. Use the tweezers to thread the right needle eye front
to back. Pull at least 3 inches (7cm) of thread through
the needle eye.
TIP:Practice threading your machine at least once a day
until you are comfortable with the process.
a
b
c
d
e
f
g
h
i
d
e
f
g
h
i
Right needle
threading
Guide
Plate
Inset of Guide
4

Manual Threading
Threading the Left Needle
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A-C Thread first 3 steps same as first 3 steps in
threading upper and lower looper.
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guide and pull thread up.
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across top and down.
F. Position thread into left side opening of guide.
G. Pass thread under left side of guide plate.
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front to back. Pull at least 3 inches (7cm) of
thread through the needle eye.
TIP: Practice threading your machine at least
once a day until you are comfortable with the
process.
Left needle
threading
D
E
F
G
H
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
Guide Plate
5
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H

Tying-on Threading Methhod
1. Place the thread spools or cones on the spool pins and bring the new thread through the thread guide
hanger, back to front.
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that are through the thread paths. Clip the thread tails of the knot.
3. Note the tension settings* and turn all tension dials to the smallest number.
4. Slowly run the machine until upper and lower looper thread knots come through the eyes of the
upper and lower loopers.
5. Stop the machine and cut needle threads above the eyes of the needles.
6. Rethread eyes of needles manually.
7. Return tension dials to the original settings.
8. Place all four threads under and to the back of the presser foot.
*TIP:Before changing the tension dial settings for the first time, write the factory settings in your instruction book.
The Lauren serger comes with thread already threaded through the thread paths. Simply tie the ends of your
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6

Serging
End of Seam
Starting to Serge
Before beginning a project, test serge on a fabric scrap to make
sure the machine is threaded properly and the tensions are set
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1. Place all threads under the presser foot and toward the
back (Diagram A).
2. Lower the presser foot.
3. Turn the handwheel toward you 2 or 3 times to make sure
a thread chain is forming.
4. Press the foot control while gently pulling threads toward
the back, making a 2-3" thread chain.
5. Place the fabric under the toe of the foot, aligning the fabric
edge about 1/4" to the right of the foot (Diagram B).
6. Gently hold the thread chain behind the presser foot with
your left hand and start serging.
1. When the needle reaches the end of the fabric seam,
chain-off by running the machine until the thread chain is
about 2-3" long.
2. Stop the machine and cut the thread chain (Diagram C)
leaving a 3" - 4" thread tail.
3. To secure the seam, place a dot of seam sealant at the end
of the seam. Let dry and trim the thread chain or pull the
thread chain back through the seam using a yarn needle.
Serging is somewhat different than sewing with a conventional sewing machine. You can serge without fabric
under the foot to create a thread chain for decorative purposes. The machine won’t jam. With the Lauren serger,
it isn’t necessary to lift the presser foot to insert the fabric; just place it at the toe of the foot and start to serge.
Be careful not to pull the fabric – the machine will feed it evenly without help. At the end of a seam, just serge
off the edge of the fabric
A
B
C
7

Tension Guidelines
Needle Tension
Looper Tension
3 - or 4 - Thread Seaming
It is easiest to become familiar with tension adjustments if you practice using different thread colors, that match to
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tension dials to a higher number to tighten the tension or to a lower number to loosen the tension performance.
The upper and lower looper threads should interlock
right over the cut edge of the fabric. (Diagrams A-3
and A-4)
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the fabric OR if the fabric edge curls up, the
upper looper tension is too tight and the lower
looper tension is too loose.
(Diagrams B-3 and B-4)
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underside of the fabric OR if the fabric edge
curls under, the lower looper tension is too tight
and the upper looper tension is too loose.
(Diagrams C-3 and C-4)
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stitching, either both loopers are too tight OR
the stitch width may be too wide for
lightweight fabrics. (Diagram D)
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A-4
B-4
C-4
Three-thread Seaming Four-thread Seaming
A-3
B-3
C-3
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8
Sew a test seam and, if stitches are visible from
the right side of the fabric (Diagram F), tighten
left needle tension. If the seam begins to pucker
or draw up lengthwise, the needle tension is too
tight. (Diagram G)
On the 4-thread stitch, if the inside straight stitch
forms loops on the back side of the fabric, tighten
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This adorable tote can be constructed
quickly and easily using a serger. It’s even
reversible for a totally different look!
Instructions:
9
Lauren's Tote
Skill Level: Beginner
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1. Cut:
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the outside top
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inside fabric
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straps
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outside base
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outside base center strips
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outside base
2. Thread the serger for a four thread stitch
with the woolly nylon extra thread in the
upper and lower loopers and maxi lock
thread in the needles.
3. Place the 7” long strips into two sets of
seven in the following color order: blue,
green, blue, gold, blue, green, blue.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
4. Set your serger for
3-thread wide stitch with
left needle, upper looper
thread and lower looper
thread between 2.0-4.0.
5. With wrong sides
together, serge first set
of strips together. Then
serge second set of
strips together. (Fig. 1)
6. Now you have two
larger pieces for the
outside base of the
tote bag. Press seams
outward. (Fig. 2)
Supplies:

For other exciting projects like this one, visit our Web site at www.babylock.com
7. With right sides together, serge one 8-1/2” x 16-1/2” outside top piece to
one of the outside base sections. Press the seam. Repeat for the second
half. (Fig. 3)
8. Place the two outside pieces together and serge along both sides and
across the bottom leaving the top edge open.
9. Place the two 17” x 16-1/2” inside fabric pieces right sides together.
10. Serge across the bottom and down one side. When serging the other
side seam, leave an opening about 4” long for turning.
11. Pull the bottom corners into a point and measure approximately 1" inch in
from the point.
12. Serge the point off and repeat for the other corner on the opposite side.
This will give the bag a flat bottom.
13. Repeat this step for the outside bag bottom corners.
14. With right sides together, serge each strap piece lengthwise.
15. Turn the straps right side out and press.
16. Place the outer bag section and the inside bag section with right sides together.
17. Insert the entire strap between the layers on each side. Position each of the strap ends 4” from the side seam
and hold in place with a pin.
18. Serge around the top edge catching only the raw edges of the straps. Do not serge over the pins.
19. Turn the bag right side out through the 4” opening in the side.
20. Press to shape the bag.
21. Cut a piece of cardboard and insert it into the base of the tote.
22. Use a hand needle and thread to tack it into position
to keep it from sliding when you reverse the bag.
23. Use the hand needle and stitch the opening closed.
Fig. 3