Beechcraft Bonanza User manual

Before beginning construction of your Bonanza you should make these following corrections:
Fuselage Plan The correct site of the rudder/fintip block (BON9S08) is: 5/8" x 7/8' x 6-1/4'
Page
57, step 7 - Change F2 to F1 A.
Page 57, step 9 - Change F2 to F1A.
Page
58, step 17 - Change ". .along the cut lines . ." to ". .about l/l6" inside the cut lines. "
Page 58, step 2 - Change ".. Phillips head . to . Socket Head Cap Screw. ."
Page 60, step 4 - Change 1" x 1-3/4"X2" -3/8' x 1-3/8' x 1-1/2'
Page
62, step 15 - Change Fuselage to "cowl "
Page 64, step (wing)l - Add " as " after the word " such "
Page 68, step 10 - Add sure " after the word " make "
Page 69, control throw chart - Trim mixing section change references to " Down " to " Up "

WARRANTY. .... TOP Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free of defects in both
materials and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts
damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite's liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final
user
- assembled product. By the act of using the user - assembled product the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the
buyer is advised to immediately return this kit in new and unused condition to the place
of purchase.
I J
Top Flite Models
P.O. Box 788
Urbana, IL 61803
Technical Assistance - Call (217) 398 - 8970
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONSAND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Entire Contents - Copyright 1997 30051 40 BON9P03

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ................................................ 3
PRECAUTIONS
.................................................. 4
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ......................... 4
Tail configuration ............................................ 4
Engine selection
............................................. 4
Exhaust system
.............................................. 4
Retractable landing gear
................................ 4
Flaps
............................................................... 4
TOP FLITE SCALE ACCESSORIES ................. 5
Operational lighting ......................................... 5
Scale cockpit interior
...................................... 5
NOTES FOR COMPETITION MINDED
MODELERS
........................................................ 5
DOCUMENTATION ............................................ 5
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED ............................... 5
Accessories .................................................... 5
Building supplies ............................................. 6
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ....................... 6
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
............................ 7
TYPES OF WOOD .............................................. 7
METRIC CONVERSIONS ................................... 7
NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER ........................ 7
DIE - CUT PATTERNS .................................. 8 & 9
GET READY TO BUILD
................................... 10
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES ......................... 10
Make the skins for the tail surfaces .............. 10
Build the stab and elevators (straight
- tail) .... 11
Build the fin and rudder (straight
- tail) ........... 15
Build the stab and ruddervators (V
- tail) ........ 17
Make the stab tips
........................................ 20
BUILD THE WING ............................................ 21
Make the wing skins ..................................... 21
Preparations
................................................. 21
Build the outer wing panels
.......................... 22
Sheet the top of the wing panels
.................. 23
Finish the outer wing panels
......................... 24
Build the center section
................................ 27
Sheet the top of the center section
............... 28
Prepare the bottom of the wing for sheeting.28
Sheet the bottom of the wing panels
............ 30
Cut out the wheel wells
................................. 31
Build the wing tips
......................................... 31
Build the flaps
............................................... 32
Build the ailerons
.......................................... 34
Mount the flap and aileron servos
................ 34
Join the wing panels
..................................... 35
BUILD THE FUSELAGE .................................. 36
Preparation ........................... : ....................... 36
Build the bottom of the fuselage
................... 37
Mount the servos
.......................................... 38
Finish framing the fuse
................................. 38
Sheet the fuselage sides
.............................. 39
Glue the tail cone together
........................... 40
Build the turtle deck (V
- tail) .......................... 42
Hook up the ruddervators
............................. 43
Fit the tail cone
............................................. 44
Center the stab
............................................. 45
Align the stab horizontally
............................. 46
Mount the fin
................................................. 47
Build the turtle deck (straight
- tail) ................. 47
Hook up the rudder and elevator .................. 49
Build the dorsal fin
........................................ 49
Fit the tail cone
............................................. 50
MOUNT THE ENGINE ...................................... 50
MOUNT THE NOSE LANDING GEAR ............. 52
Fixed gear ..................................................... 52
Retractable gear
........................................... 53
FINISH CONSTRUCTION ................................ 55
Hook up the throttle ...................................... 55
Sheet the forward deck and bottom
.............. 56
Fit the cabin top
............................................ 57
Mount the cabin top
...................................... 58
Fit the windows
............................................. 59
Mount the wing to the fuse
........................... 55
MOUNT THE V - TAIL STAB ............................. 40
MOUNT THE STRAIGHT - TAIL STAB AND FIN ..... 45
Sheet the bottom of the wing center section 60
Make the belly pan
....................................... 60
Build and fit the cowl to the fuselage
............ 61
FINISHING ........................................................ 63
Fuel proofing ................................................. 63
Cabin details
................................................. 63
Scale details
................................................. 63
Final sanding
................................................ 63
Cover Top Flite MonoKote film
..................... 64
Painting
......................................................... 64
Join the control surfaces
............................... 65
Glue in the windows
..................................... 65
Make door and hatch outlines
...................... 66
Apply the decals
........................................... 66
GET YOUR MODEL READY TO FLY .............. 66
Balance your model ...................................... 66
Balance the airplane laterally
....................... 67
Install your receiver and battery pack
........... 67
Control surface throws
......................... 68 & 69
PREFLIGHT ...................................................... 69
Charge your batteries ................................... 69
Balance your propellers
................................ 69
Find a safe place to fly
.................................. 69
Ground check your model
............................ 69
Range check your radio
................................ 69
Engine safety precautions
............................ 69
FLYING ............................................................. 70
Fuel mixture adjustment ............................... 70
Takeoff
.......................................................... 70
Flying
............................................................ 70
Landing
......................................................... 71
TWO - VIEW DRAWING ..................... Back Cover
Flaps ............................................................. 71
-2-

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,
THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY
PRECAUTION
YOURSELF
& OTHERS - FOLLOW
Your Beechcraft Bonanza is not a toy, but a
sophisticated working model that functions very
much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance,
if you do
not assemble and operate your Bonanza correctly,
you could possibly injure yourself or spectators and
damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience
totally enjoyable, get assistance with assembly
and your first flights from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler.
You’ll learn faster and
avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready
to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information
about flying clubs in your area whose membership
includes qualified instructors.
You can also contact the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300
chartered clubs across the United States. We
recommend you join the AMA which will insure you
at AMA club sites and events. AMA Membership is
required at chartered club fields where qualified
flight instructors are available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll
- free
phone number below:
SINCE 1936
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie,
IN 47302
Fax (765) 741
- 0057
(800) 435 - 9262
Your Top Flite Gold Edition Beechcraft
Bonanza is intended for scale and general sport
flying including
mild aerobatics such as loops,
stall turns, rolls, etc. Its structure is designed to
withstand such stresses.
If you intend to use
your Bonanza for more abusive types of flying
such as racing, aggressive aerobatics, or flying
from rough fields, it is your responsibility to
reinforce areas of the model that will be
subjected to the resulting unusually
high stresses.
I NTRODU CTl ON
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold
Edition Beechcraft Bonanza.
From this kit you can build either the V35B
V-tail (1970, 1971
) or the F33A straight tail (1970,
1971).
If you like the looks of the V - tail best, don’t
be intimidated. Actually, the V
- tail is a little easier
to build than the straight tail because it has fewer
parts! See page 7 for more comments on the
differences between the V
- tail and the straight tail.
Since this is a scale model with lots of detail,
you’ll find it takes a little longer to complete than
the sport models you’ve built before. But since this
is a Top Flite Gold Edition kit, it isn’t more difficult
to build than those sport models. The Top Flite
Bonanza uses the same materials and standard
construction techniques you’ve already become
accustomed to. You won’t have to learn anything
new to end up with a first class scale model! Not
only that, nearly all of the trim schemes you’ll find
on full size Bonanzas are quite simple and should
be easy to duplicate with Top Flite MonoKote film!
The Top Flite Beechcraft Bonanza is an excellent
Sportsman or Expert Scale subject. Its large size
and accurate scale outline afford you the
opportunity to go all out with as many extra details
as you like. And with the abundance of Bonanzas
at airports around the country, finding a full scale
plane to model shouldn’t be a problem. The option
of building either a V
- tail or conventional tail opens
up the possibilities even more!
-3-
Anyone who has mastered a low wing sport
model should be able to fly the Bonanza without
difficulty. It handles very much like a full size
Bonanza
- smoothandpredictable.
Because of its 81” wingspan, the Top Flite
Beechcraft Bonanza is eligible for IMAA* events. In
order to be IMAA legal some of the control
components and hardware may need to be
replaced to conform to Giant Scale rules even
though this model does not require heavy duty
hookups.
Several scale accessories specially designed for
the Top Flite Bonanza are available separately
including a full cabin interior, in
- cowl exhaust
system, and a complete lighting kit. See the Scale
Accessories section on page
5 for more
information.
*IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)
is an organization that promotes non
- competitive
flying of giant scale models.
IMAA
International Miniature Aircraft Association
205
S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
Please inspect all parts carefully before
starting to build!
If any parts are missing,
broken or defective, or if you have any
questions about building or flying this model,
please call us at (217) 398
- 8970 and we’ll be
glad to help.
If you are calling for replacement
parts, please look up the part numbers and the
kit identification number (stamped on the end
of the carton) and have them ready
when calling.

PRECAUTIONS
You must build the plane according to the
plans and instructions.
Do not alter or modify the
model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model.
In a few cases the plans and
instructions may differ slightly from the
photos. In those instances you should assume
the plans and written instructions are correct.
2. You must take time to build straight, true
and strong.
3. You must use a proper RIC radio that is in first
class condition, the correct sized
engine and
correct
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.)
throughout your building process.
4. You must properly install all R/C and other
components
so that the model operates properly
on the ground and in the air.
5. You must test the operation of the model before
every flight
to insure that all equipment is
operating, and you must make certain that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check external nylon clevises often and replace
them
if they show signs of wear.
6. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot
you must
fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced
R/C pilot.
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide
you with a top quality kit and great instructions,
but ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how
you build it;
therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the
performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied
as to the performance or safety
of your
completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow
directions to end up with a well
- built model that
is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
TAIL CONFIGURATION
You may build your Bonanza as a straight tail
or a V - tail. Complete instructions are provided for
both. The main differences in construction are
building the tail surfaces themselves, the way
they mount to the fuse, and the turtle deck
sheeting.
If you wish to utilize the elevators as
ruddewators (elevators and rudder) on the V - tail,
you will need a computer radio with V
- tail mixing
or a servo mixer such as the Ace MixMaster
(ACEM2510). However, the Bonanza will fly just
fine with elevators only and no rudder input.
Do
not be intimidated by the V - Tail configuration. It
flies beautifully and is as easy
to handle as the
straight tail.
ENGINE SELECTION
Recommended engine size:
.60 to .91 cu. in. 2 - stroke -or- .90 to ,120 cu. in. 4 - stroke
The Bonanza will fly well with any of the
recommended engines. The 4
- stroke engines
and most
.75 2 - stroke engines will turn a larger
prop at lower RPM’s. This is often desirable for
scale realism. Many
.60 2 - stroke engines
produce about as much horsepower as the
popular
.75 or .90 2 - stroke engines and will fly
the Bonanza well.
If you use a .60 2-stroke, a
ball bearing, Schnuerle - ported engine is highly
recommended. Our prototype Bonanza weighed
13 pounds with all of the options, including flaps,
scale cockpit interior and operational lighting,
and was flown with a SuperTigre
G - 75. It turned
a Top Flite Power Point 12x8 prop at 9,600 RPM.
This engine provided excellent performance
and more than enough power, even in gusty
winds.
Although larger engines can be used to
power this model, the extra horsepower is
not needed.
The included adjustable engine mount will
hold a range of engines from
.60 2 - stroke
through 1.20 4
- stroke.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
A Top Flite header and muffler are available
that will fit inside your cowl. They are designed
for 2
- stroke engines mounted horizontally, as
used on the model and shown in the instructions.
For part numbers see the accessory list on page 6.
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
You may build the Bonanza either with fixed or
retractable landing gear. Of course, fixed gear
will be much easier to install than retracts; but we
provide detailed instructions on retract
installation
so you should have no trouble. We
chose the Robart #BZA80 retracts because they
are specially designed for this model. This
landing gear is a special adaptation of the Robart
#640 mains and the #631 nose gear. Other
systems may work as well but it is up to you to
make modifications to fit them into the model.
This model was designed to incorporate scale
flaps; however,flaps are optional are not
necessary for an excellent flying experience.
Without flaps, the takeoff roll is longer and the
landing speed is faster.
The flaps are not difficult to build, but they do
require good craftsmanship to
fit well. Flaps add
nicely
to the model’s flight characteristics and
scale appearance while causing no bad effects.
Only slight trim correction is needed when they
are used with the recommended throws. They
are a highly recommended
fun option for those
who wish to install them. More information on
the use of the flaps may be found in the
“Flying” section.
For part numbers see the accessory list on page
5.
-4-
FLAPS

Operational lighting
ROTATING BEACON
ING
\
NAVIGATION LIGH T S STROBE LIGHT
(GREEN
- RIGHT, RED - LEFT)
An operational lighting system (TOPQ7912) has
been developed specially for the Top Flite
Bonanza and was installed in our prototypes.
Guidelines are provided in this manual for building
the wiring into the wing and building brackets to
hold the wing tip and tail navigation lights. You can
install the lights in the fuse at any time. The
instructions included with the lighting kit provide
information on how to hook everything up. The
lighting kit includes one rotating beacon for the top
of the fuselage, one landing light for the front of the
cowl, and three navigation or
position lights for the
wing tips and tail cone (green in the right wing tip,
red in the left wing tip, and white in the tail cone).
If
you would like to add the strobe lights in the wing
tips, order RAM #RAM01 (RAMQ2301) and
purchase additional clear lenses directly
from RAM.
Scale cockpit interior
Your model won't be complete without the Top
Flite Beechcraft Bonanza Scale Cabin Interior
(TOPQ8402). It includes the floor, side panels, full
instrument panel and six seats! You can install the
Cabin Interior at any time because the cabin top is
removable but it's easiest
to build the cockpit into
the model while it's under construction. The servos
and pushrods are located
so the Cabin Interior can
be installed without any modification.
NOTES FOR COMPETITION
MINDED MODELERS
We designed our model from Beechcraft's own
1969 3
- view drawings and from measurements
taken from a V35B at a local airport. The model
scale is 1 5 .
If you plan to enter your Bonanza in scale
competition (it's lots of fun, and the runways are
almost always paved!), this kit qualifies for
Fun
Scale
and the Sportsman and Expert classes in
Sport Scale. Fun Scale and Sport Scale have the
same flight requirements where you must perform
ten maneuvers of which five are mandatory.
If you
have never competed in a scale contest, you could
start out in Fun Scale. In Fun Scale, the only
documentation you need for static judging is any
proof that a full size aircraft of this type, in the
painffmarkings scheme on your model, did exist.
A
single photo, kit box cover, even a painting is
sufficient proof!
If you're interested, contact the
AMA for a rule book which will tell you everything
you need
to know. Look in the back of the AMA
magazine
Model Aviation for a schedule of events.
The trim scheme of the Bonanza on your kit box
was
inspired by several trim schemes and is not
taken from one particular plane.
If you are not too
concerned with an exact scale trim scheme you
can duplicate the one on the kit box, make a
variation of the one on the box, or design your own
trim scheme.
If you are going to compete in scale
competition use the photos in your documentation
package as a guide for your trim scheme.
DOCUMENTATION
three view drawings and photo packs of full size
Beechcraft Bonanzas are available from:
Scale Model Research,
3114 Yukon Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 979
- 8058
OTHER ITEMS REQUIRED
Accessories
These are additional items you will need to
complete your Bonanza that are
not included with
your kit. Order numbers are in parentheses
(GPMQ4130). Our exclusive brand is listed
where possible:
TOP is the Top Flite brand, GPM
is the Great Planes brand, and HCA is the
Hobbico brand.
4 - to 6 - channel radio with 6 to 9 servos
(2) 24 " extension for ailerons
(2) 12 " extension for elevator and rudder servo
(1) " Y Harness for ailerons
3-1/2" Main Wheels (ROBQI51 6)
2-3" Nose Wheel (ROBQI513)
(6) 3/16 Wheel Collars (GPMQ4309)
14 oz. Fuel Tank (GPMQ4106)
2-3/4" White Spinner (GPMQ4525)
36 " Medium Silicone Fuel Tubing (GPMQ4131)
1 / 2 R/C Foam Rubber Padding (HCAQ1050)
1/5 Scale Pilot Figures (WBRQ2485)
Fuel Filler Valve (GPMQ4160)
Exhaust Deflector (HCAP2175)
3 - 4 rolls Top Flite Super MonoKote covering,
see
Finishing on page 64
Paint, see Finishing on page 64
Propellers, see the engine instructions
Items for V - tail with elevator only:
(1) " Y Harness for elevator servos (if building
V
- tail with elevator only)
For Flaps, the following additional items will be
required:
(1) " Y Harness
OR
(2) 9 " Servo Extensions
(1) Dual Servo Extension
Robart #309 Super Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)
Two standard servos
-5-

For an In Cowl Muffler setup, the following
items will be required:
O.S .61SF & FX Top Flite Header (TOPQ7920)
SuperTigre .61-.90K Top Flite Header (TOPQ7925)
SuperTigre .75-.9OG Top Flite Header (TOPQ7926)
.61-.75 Bonanza In Cowl Muffler (TOPQ7917)
BUILDING SUPPLIES
Here's a checklist of supplies you should have on
hand while you're building.
We recommend Great
Planes Pro CA and Epoxy.
Glue/Filler
4 oz. Thin CA (GPMR6003)
4 oz. Medium CA+ (GPMR6009)
2 oz. Thick CA - (GPMR6015)
CA Accelerator (GPMR6035)
CA Debonder (GMPR6039)
CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
30
- minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
6
- minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
Pro Wood Glue (GPMR6161)
J & Z Products Z RC/56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
Microballoons (TOPR1090)
Milled Fiberglass (GPMR6165)
Lightweight Hobby Filler (Balsa Color, HCAR3401)
Auto body filler (Bondo@or similar)
3M #75 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1900)
Denatured or lsopropyl Alcohol
Tools
#11 Blades (HCAR0311, 100 qty.)
Single Edge Razor Blades (HCARO312, 100 qty.)
Razor Plane (MASRl510)
X-Acto@Building Square (XACR7726)
X-Act0 Building Triangle (XACR7725)
T
- Pins (HCAR5100 - small, HCAR5150 -
medium, HCAR5200 - large)
3/32 " 9/32 "
1/8 5/16 "
5/32 " 9/64" or #29
Q 3/16" u11/64"or#10
1 / 4 13/64
" or #7
Drill Bits: 1/16
" 17/64 "
Tools (Cont.)
1/4 - 20 Tap and drill set (GPMR8105)
8-32 Tap and drill set (GPMR8103)
Kyosho" LexarP Curved Scissors (KYORl01 0)
Long handle 9/64 ball driver (GPMR8004)
Long handle 3/32
" ball driver (GPMR8002)
Silver Solder (GPMR8070w/flux)
Masking Tape
Wax Paper
Easy - Touch' " Bar Sanders*
Heat Gun (TOPR2000)
Trim Seal Tool (TOPR2200)
Hot Sock (TOPR2175)
Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
EASY - TOUCH TM
HAND SANDER
*A flat, durable, easy to handle sanding tool is a
necessity for building a well finished model. Great
Planes makes a complete range of
Easy - Touch Bar
Sanders
(patent pending) and replaceable
Easy - Touch adhesive - backed sandpaper. While
building the Bonanza we used two 5-1/2" Bar
Sanders and two
11" Bar Sanders equipped with
80
- grit and 150 - grit adhesive - backed sandpaper.
Here's the complete list
of Easy - Touch Bar Sanders
and adhesive backed sandpaper:
5
- 1/2 Bar Sander (GPMR6169)
11
" Bar Sander (GPMR6170)
22" Bar Sander (GPMR6172)
80
- grit (GPMR6180)
150
- grit (GPMR6183)
220
- grit (GPMR6185)
12' roll of Adhesive
- backed sandpaper
Assortment pack
of 5 - 1/2 strips (GPMR6189)
We also use 3M 320
- grit or 400 - grit wet - or - dry
sandpaper
for finish sanding.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
There are two types of screws used i\n this kit:
number and a length.
Sheet metal screws are designated by a
For example #4 x 5/8":
Machine screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length.
For example 4
- 40 x 3/4":
When you see the term test fit in the
instructions, it means that you should first position
the part on the assembly without using any glue,
then slightly modify or
custom fit the part as
necessary for the best fit.
. Whenever the term glue is used this means you
should rely upon your experience to decide what
type of glue to use. When a specific type of
adhesive works best for that step we will tell you
what type of glue to use.
Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use
either 30 - minute epoxy or 6 - minute epoxy. When
30
- minute epoxy is specified it is highly
recommended that you use only 30
- minute epoxy
because you will need the working time and/or the
additional strength.
- Occasionally we refer to the top or bottom of the
model or
up or down. To avoid confusion, the top
or bottom of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred
to as
the top even
if the model is upside down during
that step,
i.e. the top main spar is always the top
main spar even if the wing is upside down when
you are working on it. Similarly,
move the former
up
means move the former toward the top of the
fuselage even
if the fuselage is upside down when
you are working on it.
Incidence and Thrust Angles: The incidence
angles and down thrust angles shown on the
fuselage side view are in reference to the stepped
main fuselage stringer (the 1/4"
x 3/8" x 36 "
stepped stringer), which is set at 0 " . The right
thrust shown on the bottom view is in reference to
the centerline of the fuselage. Remember, this is
-6-

the bottom view so right thrust is viewed as an
offset to the left from the bottom.
When you get to each step, read that step
completely through to the end before you begin.
Frequently there is important information or a note
at the end of the step that you need to know before
you start.
Photos and sketches are placed ahead of the
step they refer to. Frequently
you can study photos
in following steps to get another view of the same
parts.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS USED IN
THIS
BOOK AND ON THE PLANS:
Deg = Degrees
Fuse
= Fuselage
LE
= Leading Edge (front)
LG = Landing Gear
Lt
= Left
Rt
= Right
Stab
= Stabilizer
TE = Trailing Edge (rear)
" = Inches
Elev
= Elevator
Ply
= Plywood
TYPES OF WOOD:
. , . .. . . . _ . .. . . . . .
Balsa Basswood Plywood
Inch Scale
0 " 1 " 2 " 3 "
INCHES X 25.4 = MM (CONVERSION FACTOR)
1/64 " = .4mm 3/4" = 19.0 mm
1/32
" = .8 mm 1" = 25.4 mm
1/16
= 1.6rnm 2" = 50.8 mm
3/32
" = 2.4 mm 3 " = 76.2 mm
118" = 3.2 rnrn 6 = 152.4 mm
5/32
" = 4.0 rnrn 12 " = 304.8 mm
3/16
= 4.8 mrn 18 = 457.2 mm
114" = 6.4 mrn 21" = 533.4 mm
3/8
= 9.5rnm 24 " = 609.6 mm
1/2" = 12.7rnrn 30" = 762.0 mm
5/8
= 15.9 rnrn 36" = 914.4 mm
NOTES FROM THE DESIGNER
Scale Accuracy: The Bonanza was designed using three
view drawings from Beechcraft dated 1969. In addition,
measurements of all aircraft components were taken from a
V35B Bonanza at a local airport.
Wing Design: The TF Bonanza was designed with an "1-
Beam " type of wing spar rather than the more traditional "D-
Tube
" type construction. Actually, the design could be
called an
" I - Tube " . This simplifies construction and is
approximately
50% stronger than D - Tube designs. The
wing was designed with an absolute minimum number of
seams that must be sanded on the finished wing. The result
is a very smooth wing.
Flaps: Flaps on the full scale aircraft allow steeper
approaches and slower landing speeds. They do exactly the
same on this model. The improvement in performance is
well worth the effort.
Landing Gear: If you are installing fixed gear you will note
that the strut extends
out from the center of the groved rail
instead of the end. This allows landing stresses
to be
distributed across three ply reinforced ribs, rather than
being concentrated at the end of the rail.
If you plan to
install retractable landing gear, I highly recommend the
Robart units especially designed for the Bonanza. They are
very robust and include shock absorbing struts. One of our
prototype models was built with Robart
#606HD mains and
a #607 nose unit. Though adequate, they required a lot of
maintenance and occasional repair. Gear doors would look
great on this model but you will have
to do some
modifications
if you want to install then. The mounting rails
4 " 5 " 6"
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160
Metric Scale -7-
are designed to minimize damage in the event of hard
landings or contact with obstacles.
Fuselage Design: The fuselage design is fairly
conventional. The cabin top is a LARGE ABS piece and
it
drove many of the other design elements - such as how to
get it into the box! But it does simplify construction and
looks great.
It is designed to be removable but if you are not
concerned with access
to the fuel tank and cabin interior it
can be permanently glued in place, allowing the seams
to
be filled in. We found that if you choose your trim design
carefully, the seams are pretty well hidden.
The cabin area is reinforced with
1/8 lite ply. While it is
more than strong enough,
I would recommend that you
reinforce the area with some basswood rails along the
bottom of formers F2, F4 and F6 across the width
of the
fuselage. We have included ample extra 1/4" x 3/8"
basswood material for this purpose.
V-Tail vs straight tail: I personally feel that a Bonanza is
not a Bonanza if it isn't a V
- Tail. If you are intimidated by
rumors about V
- Tails being hard to build or difficult to fly,
you shouldn't be. The V
- Tail is easier to build and just as
easy
to fly. I, on the other hand, was intimidated by the
V-Tail!
Just kidding. It was designing the model to be either
aV
- Tail or straight tail, using the same basic mounting
structure and pushrods and showing
it all on the plans that I
found intimidating.
Do You Need a Computer Radio? NO!! A computer radio
will simplify radio installation and allow full utilization of the
ruddervators but it is in no way required. Simply connect the
ruddervator servos together with a Y
- cable and use them as
elevators. Or use one of the many mixers available
to
obtain V - Tail mixing. Incidentally, this model duplicates
virtually all of the flight characteristics of the full size aircraft.
The rudders are somewhat ineffective and it has the
characteristic Bonanza tail wiggle. The
full size aircraft has
differential throw when rudder is applied
- the ruddervator
having more up throw than down. This compensates for a
nose down tendency otherwise. Try
to duplicate this if you
use a computer radio. We used a Futaba radio and
did get the required compensation as you will note in the
recommended control throws section.
Will It Really Fly On a .60 Size Engine? YES!! And very
scale like as well. Our test flying was done with a new
Super Tigre .75 with a TF in
- cowl muffler. It was during
winter and it was cold so we weren't able
to dial in the
engine very well.
It was turning a TF 12 - 8 Power Point prop
at 9,600 RPM and we never felt a need for more power.
It
flew in a very scale like manner.
Good luck and good flying.
I hope you enjoy building and
flying your Bonanza as much as
I did designing it.

GET READY TO BUILD
1. Unroll the plan sheets, then roll them inside
out
so they lie flat.
2. Remove all the parts from the box. Use a
ballpoint pen (not a felt
- tip pen) to lightly write the
name or size on each piece so you can identify it
later. Use the
die - cut patterns on pages 8 & 9 to
identify and mark the die
- cut parts before you
remove them from their die
- cut sheets. Many of the
parts already have numbers stamped on them, but
in some cases the number is located alongside the
parts. You may remove all the die
- cut parts from
their die sheets now or wait until you need them. If
a part is difficult to remove, don't force it out but cut
around it with a
#I1 blade. After you remove the
parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges
to remove slivers or die
- cutting irregularities. Save
some of the larger scraps of wood.
DO NOT PUNCH OUT THE
ROUND LIGHTENING HOLE
W4, W5, W6
Note: If you are going to install retracts, don't
punch out the round
lightening hole in the die - cut
3/32 " balsa wing ribs W4, W5 and W6. Instead,
apply thin CA around the lightening hole to glue it
in place.
3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab,
fin, wing and fuse.
Store smaller parts in zipper - top food storage
bags.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
Make the skins for the tail surfaces
1. See the Hot Tip that follows and use six
1/16
" x 3 " x 30 " balsa sheets to make two
1/16 " x 9 " x 30 " stab skin planks. If you're building
the straight
- tail, make a third plank for the
finlrudder skin from three more 1/16 " x 3 " x 30 "
balsa sheets. Hey, if you're building the V - tail it
looks as if you are going to have three sheets
of
1/16 " balsa leftover!
HOW TO MAKE THE SKINS
A. Use a straightedge and a sharp #I1 blade to
true the joining edges of the sheets. When you
trim them, do not cut all the way through the first
time but make
several passes so you slice the
wood instead of splitting it.
B. Tightly tape the sheets together with masking
tape placed about every
4 " along the seams. The
sheets will not lay flat because they are tightly
taped together.
C. Place wax paper on your workbench. Flip the
sheets over and apply a bead of aliphatic resin
(wood workers glue such as Great Planes Pro "" )
between the seams. Immediately proceed to the
next steD.
-10-
D. Use a credit card or thin peice of plywood to
squeegee the excess glue from the seam. Wipe
the glue off your squeegee with a paper towel or a
stick of wood. Immediately proceed to the
next step.

INCORRECT: SHEETS
NOT FLAT AND EVEN
.... y
CORRECT SHEETS ARE
FLAT AND EVEN
. . ....
E. Press the joining edges of the sheets down
with your fingers
so they are flat and even. Place
weights on top of the sheets to hold them flat.
F. Squeegee the glue, press the seams flat, and
place weights along the other glue joint. Let the
glue dry.
G. Use the same procedure to make the wing
skins when you build the wing.
2. After the glue is dry, peel off the masking tape
and decide which side of the planks will be the
outside. Use a bar sander or a large, flat sanding
block and 150
- grit sandpaper to sand the planks so
they are flat, even and smooth. The idea is to do
the sanding
before you glue the skins to the
structure.
3. Cut the 9 " x 30 " sheets in half, making four (or
six for the straight tail)
9 " x planks.
LE Grain
Stab
TE ! -
Elevator (Ruddervater)
Elevator (Ruddervater)
4. Cut the stab and elevator skin templates
from the plan. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint
pen to mark their outline onto the
9 " x planks
(do not use a felt
- tip pen). The templates are
slightly oversize to allow for slight variances in
construction. Note the
grain direction. Cut the
stab and elevator skins from the planks. If you're
building the straight tail do the same for the fin and
rudder skin.
Note: The template shown on the
plans for the elevator (ruddervator) is larger than
needed. You will need to trim this to the correct
size when you fit the skin into place.
Beech Fact: Let's get it straight. All Bonanza 35's
(that's A through V including the very first
Bonanza
- the 35 are V - tails. Models 33 through 33C
are
Debonairs (more on the Debonair in a later Beech
Fact).
Models 33E through G are straight tail
Bonanzas, as well as the very last Bonanzas
produced: the 36 and A36. But
it's not that simple. The
designations didn't necessarily proceed from A,
to B,
to C, etc. There were variations of some of the models
such as the V35, V35TC. V35A, V35A-TC and
so on.
Or, the F33, F33A and F33C. But, the
number
designation rule
still applies. Now you can really
impress your friends!
- 11 -
I I
If you're building the V - tail, skip to " Build the
stabilizer and ruddervators
"on page 17.
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND ELEVATORS
Build the right and left stab halves simultaneously.
The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail
stab with dashed lines indicating the V
- tail stab.
The right half of the stab plan shows the V
- tail stab
with dotted lines indicating the straight tail stab.
STI. Position the plan so the stab is over your
flat building board (or cut the stab from the wing
plan) and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.
s1s
ph
ST2. Glue both die - cut 118" balsa straight tail
LE braces
together and both die - cut 3/32 " balsa
S1S ribs together.
ST3. Test fit the die - cut 3/32 " balsa stab ribs
S2S through S7S in the notches of both die - cut
1/8" balsa stab TE spars Place both
assemblies over the plan and add the LE brace.
See the photo at step ST4.

-
ST4. Use a small square to align the stab TE
spar at rib S2S over the plan. Pin rib S2S over its
location on the plan with a T
- pin about in front
of the TE spar.
ST5. Use the same method to align the TE spar
and pin the rest of the ribs on both sides of the stab
to your building board over the plan.
ST6. Pin the fronts of the ribs to your building
board over the plan.
ST7 Add botn de - cut
1 8 " balsa elevator LE
spars (S8) to the assembly.
ST8. Make sure all the jig tabs of all the ribs are
contacting your building board. Glue the stab TE
spar and elevator LE spar to the ribs with medium
CA. Don't use large amounts of CA or build up
fillets of glue. Later we will instruct you to reinforce
glue joints that don't
look strong.
ST10. Glue the die - cut 1/16 plywood straight
tail TE doubler
to the front of the TE brace (it's
the one with straight edges).
STI 1. Add the center rib S1 S and glue it into
position.
ST12. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft
sweep of the leading edge. Cut two shaped
5/16 " x
15 " balsa stab/fin leading edges to a length of
13-314" and bevel the joining ends to match the
plan. Glue them to the ribs and the LE joiner
so the
top is even with the top of the ribs. The bottom will
extend below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.
-12-
ST13. Cut a 1/16 notch in center rib S1S behind
the LE brace. Test fit the die
- cut 1/16 " plywood
straight tail LE doubler in the notch. Deepen the
notch as necessary
so the top of the doubler is
even with the top of rib
SIS. Glue the doubler to
the LE brace and glue rib S1 S to the doubler.
ST14. Cut the end off both SlAS ribs at the
embossed line and set those little pieces aside.
They will be used later to glue the aft end
of S1 AS
into position. Fit the to the elevator LE
spars, pin them
to the plan, and then glue them to
the elevator LE spars.

ST15. Sand the top of the leading edges, stab
and elevator spars, and the TE brace
so they
match the contour of the ribs.
Do not change the
shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.
ST16.
THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT!
Arrange the T - pins so every other rib is held down
with one pin near the front and one pin near the
rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs
at the same angle. This will allow you to finagle
the stab off your building board by lifting it up and
to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place
(the T
- pins are concealed).
ST17. Use your favorite method to glue the stab
skin to the stab. We recommend using aliphatic
resin to glue the skin to the ribs and TE spar, and
CA for only the leading edge. Apply glue to the stab
structure. Working quickly, position the stab skin
and hold the leading edge down until the CA
hardens. When the CA is hardened, wet the front of
the skin with a
50/50 mix of alcohol and water and
press it to the rest of the frame, holding it down
with weights until the glue dries.
Note: If you choose to use CA for the entire job, be
aware that residual accelerator you may have used
earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure
quickly. You'll have to work rapidly.
STI 8. Glue the elevator skin to the elevator. You
can use CA for this step since the skin is small and
easy to position. Make sure the trailing edge
contacts the
stoppers on the top of the jig tabs on
ribs S7S and S2S.
ST19. After the glue has thoroughly dried,
remove all the T
- pins you can reach. Carefully lift
the stab (with the elevators) from your building
board. Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out
the rest
of the T - pins.
ST20. Use a razor plane or a #I 1 blade to trim
the
bottom of the LE so it is the same size as the
front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.
ST21. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading
edges, stab spars, elevator spars and the TE brace
so they smoothly blend.
L
ST22. Glue the little tips you cut off the end of
the
S1 AS ribs to the sheeting and S1 AS.
BEVEL THE TE TO MATCH THE RIBS
TOP SHEETING'ON ELEVATOR ,
THE BOTTOM SKIN
WILL FIT LIKE THIS
TOP SHEETING
'
ST23. Use a bar sander and 150 - grit sandpaper
to bevel the trailing edge of the top elevator skin
S O
it will accommodate the bottom skin. While you
sand, apply pressure only to the sheeting and use
the ribs to set your sander at the correct angle.
Do
not bevel the trailing edge to a sharp edge but
leave about 1/32
" squared off. Hint: Support the
TE with the edge of your workbench or a platform
while you sand.
ST24. Glue four die
- cut 1/8" balsa elevator
torque rod blocks
between both sets of ribs Sl AS
and S2AS.
ST25. Cut twelve 1-7/8" long hinge blocks from
the
1/4 x 3/8" x 3 6 balsa stick. Glue them evenly
spaced to the stab TE spar and the elevator LE
spar where shown on the plan. Glue the die
- cut
1/8" balsa
stab gusset to the hinge block and rib
S7S as shown on the plan. Position the gusset
so it
is even with the bottom of the hinge block
so you
do not break it when you cut the hinge slot. Align
the grain as shown on the plan.
-13-

ST26. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and
any protruding hinge blocks
so they are even with
the bottoms of the ribs.
ST27. Reinforce any glue joints that do not
look strong.
ST28. Glue the elevator skins to the bottom of
the elevators
so the trailing edges align.
ST29. Glue the stab skins
to the bottom of the
stab.
If you have not used any accelerator on the
stab you may glue the skins on with thick or
medium CA. Otherwise, use aliphatic resin. Work
over a flat work surface and be careful not to add
any twist into the stab as you press the skins to the
stab frame.
Optional: Use the die - cut 1/8" balsa
straight tail stab cradles S2T and S7T to hold the
stab flat on your workbench while you glue the
bottom skins on. Use the stab cradles the same as
the wing cradles shown in steps
1 - 5 on page 30.
ST30. After the glue dries, use a bar sander with
150
- grit sandpaper to sand the sheeting even with
the ends of the stab and elevators.
ST31. Cut the ribs and separate the elevator
from the stab. Sand the excess sheeting and rib
stubs from the TE of the stab and the LE of the
elevator. Sand the elevator sheeting even with
rib SIAS.
ST32. Glue a die - cut 1/8" balsa stab TE (S10) to
the TE
of both stab halves. Glue a die - cut 1/8"
balsa elevator LE (also S10) to the LE of both
elevators.
ST33. Sand the stab TE's and the elevator LE's
so they are even with the ends of the stab and
elevators. Sand the stab TE and elevator
LE's so
they blend with the tips and skins.
ST34. Use two T - pins, placed in the center of
the leading edge of one of the elevators near the
ends, to align a straightedge and draw a centerline
with a ballpoint pen.
ST35. Mark the other elevator and the TE of the
stab the same way.
ST36. Cut the hinge slots on the centerlines of
the elevators and the stab where shown on
the plan.
'3/4'
ST37. Cut six hinges from the 2 " x 9 " CA hinge
strip
as shown in the sketch. Snip the corners off
the hinges
so they go into the slots easier.
Temporarily join both elevators to the stab with the
hinges.
If necessary, adjust the hinge slots so the
elevators and stab align.
ST39. Skip ahead to Make the stab tips on
page
20 to make the tip blocks (the straight tail and
V
- tail tips are shaped the same way). When you're
done, return to step ST40.
ST40. Using the plan, accurately mark the
location of the
1/8" elevator joiner wire and horn
(from now on referred to as just the elevator
joiner)
on the elevators.
ST38. Locate the 3/4" shaped balsa stab tip
ST41. Drill a 9/64 " hole and cut a groove in the
center of both
LE's for the joiner. Test fit the
elevator joiner in the elevators.
Hint: Use a 1/8" brass tube sharpened at one end
to cut the grooves.
blocks. The tip blocks match the V - tail stab tips,
so use the plan to reshape them to fit your straight
tail stab.
-14-
Cut a small groove in the TE of the stab
so the horn on the elevator joiner will not bind

against the stab when the elevator deflects
downward. Test fit the elevators to the stab, with
the elevator joiner in place, and make adjustments
if necessary.
Beech Fact: The Bonanza was (and still is) a
remarkable airplane and held many world records. In
1949 it held the world record non - stop distance for all
light planes flying 4,957 miles in 36 hours, 2 minutes
from Honolulu to New Jersey piloted by Capt. Bill
Odon. In 1958 it held the same record flying 7090
miles in 45 hours, 43 minutes from Manila to
Pendleton, Oregon flown by Capt. Pat Boling.
BUILD THE FIN AND RUDDER
ST1. Place the fin plan over your building board
and cover it with wax paper.
BEVEL THE NOTCHES IN THE
FIN
RIBS AND SPARS TO MATCH
THE ANGLE ON THE PLANS
ORIGINAL NOTCHES
ST2. Test fit the die - cut 3/32 " balsa fin ribs R2
through R6 in the notches of the die - cut 1/8" balsa
fin TE spar (R7) and rudder LE spar (R8). Place
the assembly over the plan.
If the ribs fit tightly into
the notches of the fin
TE spar and the rudder LE
spar, remove the ribs and bevel the notches in the
spars and the ribs as shown in the sketch.
ST3. Use a small square to position the fin TE
spar over the plan near rib R2. Align rib R2 over
the plan and pin it to your building board. Use one
pin near the front of the jig tab and one T
- pin
!ar the rear of the jig tab.
ST4. Use the same method to align the fin TE
spar over the plan at each rib. Pin the rib to your
building board. Glue the ribs to the spars with
medium CA. Use small drops of CA and do not
build up fillets. Later, we will remind you to
reinforce the glue joints.
Refer to this photo for the next three steps
ST5. Cut rib R1 apart between the spar notches.
Add fin rib
R1 and rudder rib R1A to the spars. Pin
them
to the plan and glue them in position.
ST6. Sand the fronts of the ribs to match the aft
sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped
5/16
" x15 " balsa stab/fin leading edge to a length
of 12-1/2". Glue it to the front of the ribs so the top
of the LE is even with the top of the ribs. The
bottom of the
LE will extend below the bottom of
the ribs but will be sanded flush later.
ST7. Sand the upward facing edges of the
leading edge and the sub spars
so they match the
contour of the ribs.
Do not change the shape of the
airfoil by sanding
too much.
ST8. Arrange the T - pins so they all go into the
jig tabs at the same angle. This will allow you to
finagle the fin and rudder off your building board by
lifting it up and to one side after the top sheeting is
glued in place (the T
- pins are concealed).
ST9. Glue the fin and rudder skin to the
structure. The bottom of the fin skin should extend
below rib R1 by approximately 1/4"-1/2"
so you can
trim it later. Make sure the trailing edge
of the
rudder meets the stoppers on the top of the jig tabs
on ribs R6 and
R1 A. Note: The rudder skin was cut
wider than needed, to allow enough material to trim
it
to size now.
ST10. After the glue has thoroughly dried,
remove all the T
- pins you can reach. Carefully lift
the fin (with the rudder) from your building board.
Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out the rest
of the T
- pins.
ST11. Use a razor plane or a #11 blade to trim
the right side of the
LE so it is the same size as the
front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.
ST12. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading
edges, fin spar, rudder spar and trailing edges so
that they blend.
ST13. Bevel the trailing edge of the left rudder
skin the same way you did the stab.
-15-

ST14. Glue the four die - cut1/8"balsa rudder
torque rod blocks betweenR1A and
R2 in
the rudder.
ST1 5. Cut six 1-718" long hinge blocks from the
1/4" x 3 / 8
x 36" balsa stick. Test fit, then glue the
hinge blocks, evenly spaced,
to the fin TE spar and
the rudder LE spar where shown on the plan.
ST16. Glue the die - cut 1/8" balsa fin gusset to
the hinge block and rib R6. The gusset should be
raised
so it is even with the left side of the fin TE
and rib R6
(so it does not interfere with the
hinge slot).
ST17. Trim the elevator torque rod blocks and
any hinge blocks
so they are even with the ribs.
BEVEL FIN POST
FRONT SIDE
ST18. Cut a 5 " long fin post from a 114 " x 318 " x
36 " basswood stick. Bevel one end so it matches
the plan. Bevel the sides to accommodate the
sheeting. Set the fin post aside for now.
ST19. Reinforce glue joints that don't
look strong.
ST20. Glue the other rudder and fin skin to the
right side of the rudder and fin. Optional: Use the
die
- cut 1/8" balsa finlstab cradles RlC and R6C
to hold the fin and rudder flat on your workbench
while you glue the right skins on.
ST21. Sand the tip of the fin and rudder sheeting
flush with rib R6.
ST22. Cut the ribs and separate the rudder from
the fin. Sand the excess sheeting and rib
stubs
from the TE of the fin and the LE of the rudder.
Sand the bottom of the rudder even with rib A.
ST23. Glue a die - cut 118" balsa fin trailing edge
(R9) to the fin TE spar and a die - cut 1/8" balsa
rudder leading edge (R9) to the rudder LE spar.
Sand the fin TE and rudder LE
so they blend with
the tips and skins.
ST24. Use the straightedge and pin technique to
draw a centerline on the LE of the rudder and the
TE of the fin.
ST25. Cut the hinge slots on the centerline of
the fin and rudder where shown on the plan.
ST26. Cut three more hinges from the hinge
strip and temporarily join the rudder to the fin. If
necessary, adjust the hinge slots
so the fin and
rudder align.
ST27. Securely tape the rudder to the fin with
masking tape on both sides. Sand the ends of the
fin and rudder
so they are even.
ST28. Draw a centerline on the top and bottom
of t he 518" x 718"
x 6-1/4" balsa fin tip block. Cut
the block into two pieces as shown on the plan.
Sand the edges you just cut
so they are smooth
and match the angle on the plan.
-16-
ST29. Use thick or medium CA to glue the
rudder tip block only to the rudder. Use the
centerline on the rudder tip block as a guide to
make sure it is centered on the rudder and fin.
ST30. Glue the fin tip to the fin, making sure
there is a 1/16" gap between the fin tip and the
rudder tip.
ST31. Use a razor plane or a hobby carving
knife followed by sanding to carefully shape the fin
and rudder tip blocks. Inspect your progress
frequently and use the centerlines as a guide.
Hint: Stick a T - pin through the top of the rudder tip
into the fin. This will hold the rudder tip while you
shape it.
ST32. Shape the LE of the fin as you did with
the stab.
ST33. Separate the rudder from the fin.
ST34. Shape the leading edge of the rudder to a
" V " as you did with the elevators. Use the
centerline on the leading edge as a guide. Make
sure the angle of the
" V " will allow the throws
indicated in the back of this manual.
ST35. Rejoin the rudder to the fin with the
hinges. Shift the rudder upward
so there is
approximately a 1/32" gap between the rudder tip
and the fin.

ST36. Sand the top of the rudder tip so it
matches the fin tip (since you raised the rudder
slightly).
What a ni 9 pie P f workmanship! Put the stab
and fin in a safe place, clean
off your workbench,
vacuum the floor, read the following
Beech Fact,
then skip to page 21 and build the wing.
Beech Fact: At first, the Bonanza model existed only
in the V
- tail configuration. The original straight tail
Beech, introduced in 1959, was named the
Debonair.
It was intended to be a less expensive, bare essentials
model in the Beechcraft lineup to compete with Piper's
Comanche and Cessna's soon
- to - be - released 21 0.
However, after many upgrades and changes, the
Debonair evolved into what was basically a straight tail
Bonanza.
So in 1968 Beech decided to drop the
Debonair name and called both the
33 and the 35, the
Bonanza. Neat - O!
BUILD THE STABILIZER AND
RUDDERVATORS
The right half of the stab plan shows the V - tail stab
with a dashed line indicating the straight tail stab.
The left half of the stab plan shows the straight tail
stab with dashed lines indicating the V
- tail stab.
Build the
right side of the stab first so your
progress matches the photos.
V1. Position the plan so the stab is over your flat
building board (or cut the stab from the wing plan)
and tape it down and cover it with wax paper.
V2. Test fit.the die - cut 3/32 " balsa stab ribs
S2V
through S7V in the notches of the die - cut 1/8"
balsa stab TE spar (S9) and the ruddervator LE
spar (S8). Place the assembly over the plan.
V3. Use a small square to help align the
ruddervator LE spar S8 over the plan at rib S2V.
- 17-
Pin the rear of the jig tab on S2V to the plan. Use
the same procedure to pin the rear of the jig tabs
on the rest of the ribs to the plan.
V4. One at a time, align the fronts of the ribs
over the plan and pin the jig tabs down
to your
building board.
V5. Still without using glue, join rib SIV to the
assembly and pin it to your building board.
....
V6. Glue two die - cut 1/8'' balsa V - tail LE
braces together. Place them in the notches of ribs
S1 V and S2V as shown on the plan.
V7. Make sure all the jig tabs of all the ribs
are contacting your building board, then glue the
stab
TE spar, ruddervator LE spar and the V - tail LE
brace to the ribs with medium CA. Don't use large
amounts of CA or build up fillets of glue. Later we
will instruct you to reinforce glue joints that don't
look strong.
V8. Bevel the fronts of the ribs to match the aft
sweep of the leading edge. Cut a shaped
5/16 " x 15"
balsa stab/fin leading edge to a length of
Glue it to the fronts of the ribs
so the top is even with
the
top of the ribs. The bottom of the LE will extend
below the ribs but will be sanded flush later.

V9. Check the fit of the sub spar (S11) in the
die
- cut notches of the ribs SIV, S2V and S3V.
Make any adjustments needed.
VIO. Test fit, then glue the sub spar in
position. Use a 90" triangle to insure that the sub
spar is vertical.
V11. Cut the end off rib SlAV at the
embossed line and set that little piece aside. Glue
SlAV to the ruddervator
LE spar over its location
on the plan.
V12. Sand the top of the leading edge, sub
spar, elevator TE spar and the ruddervator
LE spar
so they match the contour of the ribs. Don't change
the shape of the airfoil by sanding too much.
V13.
THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT!
Arrange the T
- pins so every other rib is held down
with one pin near the front and one pin near the
rear and make sure all the pins go into the jig tabs
at the same angle. This will allow you to finagle
the stab off your building board by lifting it up and
to one side after the top sheeting is glued in place
(the T
- pins are concealed).
V14. Use your favorite method to glue the
stab skin to the stab. We recommend using
aliphatic resin
to glue the skin to the ribs and TE
spar, and CA for only the leading edge. Apply the
glue. Working quickly, position the stab skin and
hold the leading edge down until the CA cures.
When the CA is cured, wet the front of the skin with
a
50/50 mix of alcohol and water and press it to the
rest of the frame, holding it down with weights until
the glue dries.
Note: If you choose to use CA for the entire job, be
aware that residual accelerator you may have used
earlier can make the CA you use for this step cure
quickly. You'll have
to work rapidly.
V15. Glue the ruddervator skin to the
ruddervator. You can use CA for this step since the
skin is small and easy to posidon. Make sure the
trailing edge contacts the
stoppers on the top of the
jig tabs on ribs S7V and S2V.
V16. After all the glue has dried, remove all
the T
- pins you can reach. Carefully lift the stab
(with the ruddervator) from your building board.
Trim the jig tabs from the ribs and take out
- the rest
of the T
- pins.
V17. Use a razor plane or a #I 1 blade to trim
the
bottom of the LE so it is the same size as the
front of the ribs and matches the airfoil shape.
V18. Sand the bottoms of the ribs, leading
edges, stab, ruddervator spars and trailing edges
so they blend together.
-18-
V19. Glue the little tip you cut off the end of
rib SlAV to the sheeting and SIAV.
For clarity we've drawn a /ine indlcating the bevel .
BEVEL THE TE TO MATCH THE RIBS
TOP SHEETING ' ON ELEVATOR
THE BOTTOM SKIN
WILL FIT LIKE THIS
TOP SHEETING
'
V20. Use a bar sander and 150 - grit
sandpaper
to bevel the trailing edge of the top
ruddervator skin
so it will accommodate the bottom
skin. While you sand, apply pressure only to the
sheeting and use the ribs to set your sander at the
correct angle. Do not bevel the trailing edge to a
sharp edge but leave about 1/64 squared off.
Hint:
Support the TE with the edge of your
workbench or a platform while you sand.
V21. Glue four die - cut 1/8" balsa ruddervator
torque rod blocks
between ribs SlAV and
SS2AV You can see the torque rod blocks in the
following photo.

V22. Remove a small section of rib S2v
between the LE brace and the sub spar. Now you
should have a slot in rib
S2V like the one in the
photo below.
DO NOT cut the slot shown in rib S1 V
until instructed to do so later.
I
V23. Cut six 2-118" long hinge blocks from
the
1/4" x 3/8" x 36 " balsa stick. Glue the hinge
blocks evenly spaced to the stab TE spar and the
ruddervator
LE spar where shown on the plan.
Glue the die
- cut 1/8" balsa stab gusset to the
hinge block and rib
S7V as shown on the plan.
Position the gusset
so it is not on the centerline of
the hinge
so you do not break it when you cut the
hinge slot. Align the grain as shown on the plan.
V24. Trim the ruddervator torque rod block
and any protruding hinge blocks
so they are even
with the bottoms
of the ribs.
V25. Reinforce glue joints that don't look
strong.
V26. Glue the bottom stab and ruddervator
skins to the bottom of the stab and ruddervator.
Work over a flat surface and be careful not to add
any twist into the stab as you press the skins onto
the stab frame. Make sure the
TE of the
ruddervator skins align. Optional: Use the die
- cut
1/8" balsa V
- tail stab cradles S2V and S7V to
hold the stab flat on your workbench while you glue
the bottom skins on. Use the stab saddles the
same as the wing saddles shown in stepsl
- 5on
pages
30.
V27. Use a bar sander with 80 - grit sandpaper
to sand the sheeting even with rib
S7V.
V28. Cut the ribs and separate the
ruddervator from the stab. Sand the excess
sheeting and rib
stubs from the TE of the stab and
the
LE of the ruddervator. Sand the root of the
ruddervator sheeting flush with rib SIAV.
V29. Cut 4-3/8" off the small end of the die-
cut
1/8" balsa stab TE (S10). Glue the stab TE to
the stab
so the root end aligns with the inner edge
of rib
S3V as shown on the plan.
V30. Shape the stab TE so it blends with the
stab and tip.
-19-
V31. Glue a ruddervator LE (also S10) to the
LE of the ruddervator and sand it
so it blends with
the skins and tips.
V32. Use two large T - pins, placed in the
center of the leading edge of the ruddervator near
the ends, to align a straightedge and draw a
centerline with a ballpoint pen.
V33. Mark the trailing edge of the stab the
same way.
V34. Cut the hinge slots on the centerline of
the ruddervator and the stab where shown on the
plan.
Do not cut the hinge slot in the stab nearest
the root until instructed to do
so.
V35. Cut three hinges as shown in the sketch
from the
2 " x 9 " CA hinge strip. Snip the corners
off the hinges
so they go into the slots easier.
V36. Temporarily join the ruddervator to the
stab with
two hinges. If necessary, adjust the hinge
slots
so the ruddervator and stab align.