Bernina Serger User manual

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 1
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Mastering Your
Serger
Owner’s Workbook

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 2
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Table of Contents
Class 1 - General Information..................................................... 3
Introduction .....................................................................................................4
Presser Feet & Accessories............................................................................5
Needles...........................................................................................................6
Thread.............................................................................................................8
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock ........................................................................10
Adjusting Tensions ........................................................................................ 12
Stitch Length .................................................................................................18
Cutting Width.................................................................................................20
Differential Feed............................................................................................22
mtc - Micro Thread Control...........................................................................28
Securing Ends...............................................................................................30
Serging a Tube..............................................................................................32
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 34
Class 2 - Four Thread Techniques........................................... 35
Serger Seams...............................................................................................36
Seaming Knits...............................................................................................38
Serger Piecing...............................................................................................46
Elasticator .....................................................................................................50
Gathering Foot and Attachment....................................................................52
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 58
Class 3 - Three-Thread Techniques......................................... 59
3-Thread Overlock ........................................................................................ 60
3-thread Overlock with mtc...........................................................................68
3-Thread Flatlock ..........................................................................................72
Blindstitch Foot..............................................................................................78
3-Thread Rolled Hem.................................................................................... 86
Cording Foot .................................................................................................88
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 92
Class 4 - Miscellaneous Techniques ....................................... 93
3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch.......................................................................94
2-Thread Flatlock ..........................................................................................98
2-Thread Flatlock with mtc. ........................................................................102
2-Thread Rolled Hem..................................................................................104
2-Thread Wrapped Edge ............................................................................106
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide....................................................................108
Product Reference List ............................................................................... 116
Class 5 - Cover & Chain...........................................................117
Cover Stitch................................................................................................. 118
Chain Stitch.................................................................................................130
Combination Stitches (1300MDC only) .......................................................136
Product Reference List ...............................................................................140

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 3
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Class 1
General Information
Class Overview
Machine Overview
Parts of the serger
Setting up the serger
Serger Accessories
Tweezers
Lower Looper Threader (700D only)
Needle Threader
(optional for 700D & 800DL)
Brush/Needle Insertion Tool
Spool Caps
Spool Cones
Thread Nets
Thread
Good quality vs. poor quality
Construction/All-Purpose Thread
Decorative Thread
Needles
Types of Needles
Sizes of Needles
Parts of Needles
Matching Needle & Thread
Threading for Overlock Serging
The Threading Path
Threading Order
First – Upper Looper (Blue)
Second – Lower Looper (Red)
Third – Right Needle (Green)
Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)
Test Serging
Basic Serging Samples
1 Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
2 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers
3 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers
4 Adjusting Tensions - Needles
5 Stitch Length Adjustment
6 Cutting Width Adjustment
7 Differential Feed - Stretch
8 Differential Feed - Pucker
9 Differential Feed - Gathering & Easing
10 Micro Thread Control - mtc
11 Securing Serged Seams
12 Serging a Tubular Project
Care & Cleaning
Removing Lint from Inside Serger
Oiling
Replacing the Cutting Knives
Yearly “Tune Up”
by Authorized BERNINA®technician
This class is formatted for owners of
the following models of BERNINA®
overlock machines:
• 700D
• 800DL
• 1150MDA
• 1300MDC

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 4
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA®serger!
This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at
your BERNINA®dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with
the features of your new BERNINA®overlock machine. In addition, you will learn about
needles, threads, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of
serging and assist you in achieving success in all of your serging endeavors.
Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA®overlock machine,
attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protec-
tors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future
as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.
BERNINA®of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing
and overlock machines, but with informative publications and classes.Along with providing
Owners Classes, your local BERNINA®dealer stocks BERNINA®books and magazines, such
as Feetures, Serger Technique Reference Guide, and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA®of
America, Inc. has a website –www.berninausa.com –offering free projects, basic sewing and
serging information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with creative
stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers,
no matter which machines are their favorites.
Learn to use your BERNINA®serger to
its full extent and enjoy being creative
with fabric and thread!
My BERNINA®overlock machine
model is: __________________
I purchased it on: ____________
at________________________
__________________________
__________________________
Introduction

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 5
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
BERNINA®Presser Feet:
• are precision engineered for specific functions
• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production
with professional looking results
• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.)
• are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as the Serging
Technique Reference Guide, Feetures, and the BERNINA®website at www.berninausa.com
Additional Presser Feet
& Accessories Available for
BERNINA®Sergers:
• Blindhem Foot
• Cording Foot
• Elasticator
• GatheringAttachment
• Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
• Standard Foot with Tape Guide
•Attachment Base
• Looper/Needle Threader
• Left Seam Guide
• Right Seam Guide
• Upper Looper Converter
• Waste Collector
•Serger Technique Reference Book
•Feet-ures Volume 2 (Unit M)
•Feet-ures Volume 3 (Unit P)
Presser Feet & Accessories

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 6
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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Needles
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many
“mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent,
damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When select-
ing the correct needle for any serging project, three things must be
considered:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier ones
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop
to be picked up by the looper
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from looper, which can’t
enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make
a stitch Need To Know
•Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger; larger
needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.
• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle
is the most inexpensive part in your serger but is one of the most
crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running
well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated to glide through fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the
needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger
groove should be used.
• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible,
with the flat side to the back.
Needle Size Conversion
European vs. Domestic
60 = 8
70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
Regardless of the system, the greater
the number, the larger the diameter
of the needle. Never use a needle
larger than size 90/14 in your serger!
Notes

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 7
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
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Needle Chart
Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey;
80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
A stretch needle has a more rounded point and
a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent
skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes
used on Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic.
A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint
needle; can be used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to
flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for
use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch
is desired.
A sharp point with a thin shaft. 60-90 corresponds
to the weight of the fabric; as the fabric gets heavier
or denser, the number is higher. Specially designed
for microfiber fabrics.
The thin, tapered point of this needle causes less
damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove.
Use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles
heavy threads.
Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a
coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery
thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be used through the eye of
an 80 or 90 needle.
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only.
Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.
Ball Point
Stretch
Universal
Jeans
Microtex
Sharp
(Schmetz)
Microfiber
(Lammertz)
Quilting
Topstitch
Embroidery
(Schmetz)
Metafil (Lammertz)
Leather
70-90
70-90
60-90
70-90
60-90
assort’d
(75 & 90)
80-90
75-90
80-90
Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger;
larger needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 8
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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Thread
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any
machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately
37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams,
frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, an
overlock machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted settings.
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread
must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a
single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long
while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during
stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality
threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into
a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause
skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in
seams. Right twist – most American
threads are twisted to the right,
causing some rolling. This gives
average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and
imported threads are twisted to
the left, giving better than average
stitch quality. Left twist resists
rolling and makes a larger loop for
the hook point to enter, reducing
skipped stitches.
Notes

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 9
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and mar-
keting of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.
Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and
Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while
holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you
with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.
Some commonly used threads:
•Polyester Overlock Thread – such as Mettler Metrocor
Thinner than regular sewing thread, eliminating bulk in serger
stitch formations. An excellent all-purpose serger thread.
•Texturized Nylon Thread – such as YLI Woolly Nylon
and Mettler Metroflock.A very elastic thread with excellent
coverage; perfect for rolled edges and knit seams. Available
in solid and variegated colors, and metallics.
•Polyester Topstitching Thread – such as YLI Jeans Stitch
& Mettler Cordonnet – this heavy thread is used for decorative
stitching, such as flatlocked seams and overcast edges. Also
nice for cover and chain stitching. Available in solid and
variegated colors.
•Rayon Decorative Threads – such as YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
& YLI Designer 6 – shiny threads for decorative applications.
Pearl Crown Rayon is twisted, while Designer 6 is untwisted.
Available in solid and variegated colors.
•Metallic Decorative Threads – such as YLI Candlelight –
adds a bit of glitz to seams and edgings.
•Decorative Sewing Threads – sewing machine threads can
also be used in the serger, and are particularly effective when
several are used together as one thread.
Storage of Thread
Thread does wear out and should be stored with care to keep it usable
as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while
very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread
in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or
drawers that close) if possible to keep it dust-free.
Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing
box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a
seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold
together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.
Thread
Notes

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 10
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
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Mastering
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Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to
match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated.
Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb
and slide the fabric under the presser foot. Release the tip of the presser
foot and begin serging.
Serge to the end of the fabric. Continue stitching off the fabric until you
have a 3”- 4” thread chain. Cut thread chain.
Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced
stitch graphic on page__ of your Owner's manual.
Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__
of the Owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and
correcting any stitch irregularities.
Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of
stitching.
Trim and mount the sample.
Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Left Needle Right Needle Upper Looper Lower Looper
Record your serger’s “personal” tension settings
for a balanced overlock in the chart below:

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 11
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5 Cutting Width...............................2-3
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5 Stitch Length..........................2.5mm
Left Needle.................................. 3-5 Differential Feed ............................ N
Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Stitch Selection Lever.................. 

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 12
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions
Lower Looper - Increased Tension
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors
to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.
Locate the thread tension levers on the front of the serger. From left
to right, these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right Needle,
Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.
Adjust the lower looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the
fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the
stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.
Trim, label, and mount the sample.
Lower Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the lower looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.
The looper threads are very loose.
Label, trim, and mount the sample. Return the thread tension levers
to normal.
Fabric ................................................... 6 pieces firm fabric, each 3” x 6”
.........................................................1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”
Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 13
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
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Adjusting Tensions Samples
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5 Cutting Width...............................2-3
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5 Stitch Length..........................2.5mm
Left Needle.................................. 3-5 Differential Feed ............................ N
Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Stitch Selection Lever.................. 

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 14
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
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Mastering
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Adjusting Tensions, continued
Upper Looper - Increased Tension
Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge
of the fabric. The lower looper thread is pulled tightly to the front
of the stitch.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Upper Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the upper looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge
of the fabric. The upper looper thread is visible on the back of the
fabric. The looper threads are very loose.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Return the thread tension levers to normal.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 15
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA®Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions Samples
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5 Cutting Width...............................2-3
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5 Stitch Length..........................2.5mm
Left Needle.................................. 3-5 Differential Feed ............................ N
Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Stitch Selection Lever.................. 

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 16
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
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Mastering
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Adjusting Tensions, continued
Right Needle - Decreased Tension
Adjust the right needle thread tension lever to 2 (down) to decrease
the tension on the needle thread.
Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the
back of the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Left Needle - Decreased Tension
Adjust the left needle thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension
on the needle thread.
Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the back
of the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Both Needles - Increased Tension
Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension levers to 7 to
increase the tension on the needle threads.
Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.
Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The lower looper thread is pulled to the front
of the sample and the stitch is puckering the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Return both needle thread tension levers to normal.

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 17
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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Adjusting Tensions Samples
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5 Cutting Width...............................2-3
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5 Stitch Length..........................2.5mm
Left Needle.................................. 3-5 Differential Feed ............................ N
Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Stitch Selection Lever.................. 
increased left & right needle tensions
decreased left needle tension
decreased right needle tension

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 18
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
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Mastering
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Stitch Length Adjustment
Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the
folded edge.
Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the
settings as needed. Set the cutting width and the differential at their
normal settings.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. Serge to the first mark along the
folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.
Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.
Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return stitch length to its normal setting, 2.5mm.
Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 19
©2006 BERNINA®of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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Stitch Length Adjustment Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5 Cutting Width ...............................2-3
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5 Stitch Length..........................2.5mm
Left Needle.................................. 3-5 Differential Feed ............................ N
Right Needle ............................... 3-5 Stitch Selection Lever.................. 
4mm 3mm 2mm 1mm

Notes
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®SERGERS 6/2006 20
©2006 BERNINA®ofAmerica, Inc.
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Mastering
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Cutting Width Adjustment
Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
Divide and mark the fabric into three equal sections along the folded
edge.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions
for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5).
Rotate the upper knife up. Adjust cutting width to 3. Rotate the upper
knife down into cutting position.
Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the knife edge
is on the mark.
Adjust cutting width to 2mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the cutting width to 1mm and serge to the end of the fabric.
Mark the cutting width settings on the sample.
Rotate the upper knife up. Return the cutting width to its normal setting,
2mm. Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
Compare the cutting width sample to the balanced 4-thread sample
to see how cutting width affects the balance of the overlock stitch.
Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread...............................................................4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock