Bernina Funlock 004D User manual

Important
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Dear customer
Congratulations on your choice!
Your Bernette Funlock 004D/004 is made to the highest standards. It will cut, sew and neaten for you in one smooth
operation giving a professional look to anything you make.
The 4 thread Bernette Funlock is particularly suited to sewing stretch fabrics. Let your wardrobe and home benefit
from the Bernette’s superb sewing qualities. Our comprehensive Instruction Manual introduces you step by step to
the joys of overlocking and also gives you some useful sewing tips.
We wish you many happy hours of overlocking pleasure.
Safety Regulations
The following safety regulations must be observed without fail: It is important to pay attention to the needle and knife
while sewing as these are potential sources of injury to fingers. Movements within the area of the needle, knife or
looper such as threading, changing needles or presser feet, or raising the knife, may only be done with the machine
switched off (power switch at “O”). When cleaning or lubricating the machine replacing the bulb or when sewing is
finished, machine should be disconnected from the electricity supply. All repair work, especially electrical repairs
(e.g. renewing the cable connection out by one of our authorized service agencies.
Please note:
Funlock 004 is not equipped with differential feed. All points relating exclusively to Funlock 004D are marked with
the symbol. ✱
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Contents
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Safety regulations 1
Contents 2
Details of the machine 3
●Accessories 4
Preparing the machine 5
●Foot control 5
●Assembling the thread stand 5
●Thread, cones, spools 6
Using the machine 7
●Main switch 7
●Handwheel 7
●Looper cover, cloth plate 7
●Presser foot lifter 8
●Changing the presser foot 8
●Inserting the needles 9
●Raising the upper knife 9
Threading 10
●Preparations 10
●Upper and lower looper 11/12
●Right-hand and left-hand needle 13/14
Threading/trial sewing 15
●3 thread Overlock 15
●Sewing test/tension 15/16
●Adjusting tension 17
Adjustments and settings 18
●Stitch length 18
●Cutting width 18
●Differential feed ✱19/20
●Gathering ✻20
Setting/Practical sewing 21
●Presser foot pressure 21
●Roll hemming 22
●Sewing in tape 23
●Thread breakage, unpicking seams 23
Maintenance 24
●Changing knifes and light bulb 24
●Cleaning and lubricating 24
Trouble shooting guide 25
Technical data 26
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Details of the machine
Details of the machine
1. Looper cover
2. Looper cover opening indent
3. Knife guard
4. Cloth plate opening lever
5. Cloth plate
6. Stitch plate
7. Presser foot
8. Lower looper thread tension dial
9. Upper looper thread tension dial
10. Right needle thread tension dial
11. Left needle thread tension dial
12. Thread take-up cover
13. Thread guide plate
14. Presser foot adjusting screw
15. Sewing light 21
16. Power/light switch
17. Handwheel
18. Machine socket
19. Thread stand 20
20. Anti-vibration cone
21. Spool holder pin
22. Retractable support rod
23. Thread guide
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24. Open thread guide
25. Presser foot lifter
26. Foam pad
27. Stitch length adjustment knob
28. Differential feed adjustment knob
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Details of the machine
View with looper cover open
1. Upper looper
2. Upper knife
3. Lower knife
4. Selection lever for overlocking or roll hemming
5. Lower looper
6. Lower knife setscrew
View with cloth plate open
1. Cutting with adjustment knob
2. Stitch length adjustment knob (004)
Accessories
1. Electronic foot control
2. Lower knife
3. Net
4. Spool caps
5. Tweezers
6. Cleaning brush
7. Looper threader
8. Needle threader
9. Set of household needles
10. Small screwdriver
11. Large screwdriver
12. Oiler
13. Accessory bag
14. Dust cover
4

Preparing the machine
Attaching the foot control
Plug foot control into machine socket (A) and then into main
socket (B). The foot control regulates the sewing speed. The
sewing speed can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the
pressure on the foot control.
Thread guide
Raise, the support rod fully, turning slightly until the
positioning catches engage (C). Position the thread guide on
the thread stand so that the arrow is to the front (D).
Thread Stand
Attach the separately packed spool holder to the fixed spool
holder.
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Preparing the machine
Thread cones/spools
The anti-vibration cone should be used with the wider edge
at the bottom on the spool holder pin when sewing with
cones.
Large spools
If large industrial spools are used, position the anti-vibration
cone upside down on the spool holder pin, i.e. with the wider
edge at the top.
Household spools
Remove the anti-vibration cones. Place spools on spool
holder pins and push the spool capon with the rounded side
downwards.
Thread net
If threading slip and get twisted, cover the spools of upper
and lower looper with the nets supplies in the accessory bag.
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Using the machine
Power/light switch
The power/light switch is conveniently placed on the hand-
wheel side of the machine in front of the socket.
• Off (A)
• On without light (B)
• On with light (C)
Handwheel
The handwheel turns forward, i.e. in the same direction as on
a household sewing machine.
Looper cover
To open press to the right with your thumb in the indent
provided and tilt the cover towards you. To close, push it up
and press lightly to the right. The cover engages
automatically.
Cloth plate
The cloth plate opens automatically by pushing the lever
downwards. To close the cloth plate, push it towards the
machine and press gently until the cover engages.
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Using the machine
Two-step presser foot lifter
To raise the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever on the
rear of the machine, until it engages (A). It can be raised
again to maximum height and held in this position to provide
more space between presser foot and stitch plate (B).
Changing the presser foot
• Turn power switch to “O”
• Raise the presser foot
• Turn handwheel towards you until needles are fully
raised.
Press the catch (C) to release the presser foot from the
clamp. Raise the presser foot to the highest position (B)
and remove the presser foot to the left. To attach the
presser foot, place it under the shaft. The groove in the
shaft should line up exactly with the presser foot pin
(D). Lower the shank and the presser foot will engage
automatically.
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Using the machine
Inserting the needles
Needles can be inserted quickly and easily with the practical
brush-cum-needle inserter (A).
• Turn power switch to “O”.
• Turn handwheel towards you until needles are fully
raised.
• Lower the presser foot.
Using the small screwdriver, loosen the needle set- screws
and remove the needles (B).
Place right-hand needle, flat sides towards the back, into the
hole of the needle inserter and insert the needle as far as
possible into the needle clamp. Tighten the set-screw lightly
and then insert the left-hand needle in the same way and
tighten both setscrews (C).
Needle and machine
Your Funlock is equipped with needle system 130/705 H
(household needles). These should be purchased when
replacement needles are required. Use needles no. 70 – 90 on
your Bernette.
Raising the upper knife
• Turn the power switch to “O”
• Turn the handwheel towards you until needles
are fully raised.
• Open looper cover.
Press the upper knife holder (D) to the right. Turn the knob
clockwise (E) until the knife is in the position illustrated (F).
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Threading
Preparation/Tips
• Turn power switch to “O”
• Support rod with thread guide must be fully raised.
• Open the looper cover and cloth plate.
• Turn the handwheel towards you until needles are
fully raised.
• Raise the upper knife.
Thread the machine carefully and in the correct sequence.
Invaluable threading aids simplify threading:
• coloured threading illustration
• colour coded thread path on the machine.
• threading accessories.
Thread guide bar
Slide thread into the two slits to form an S-loop.
Thread tension
The thread must lie correctly between the tension discs for
perfect stitch formation. When a slight resistance is felt on
the thread, it is lying correctly between the tension discs.
Needle threader
Insert thread into threader. Push the rigid end of the threader
through the looper or needle eye and pull it completely
through the eye.
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Threading
1. Upper looper thread, blue markings
Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the blue
marking on the thread guide.
(1) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the blue
guide.
(2,3) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(4) Thread guide.
(5) Thread tension dial.
(6,7,8,9,10) Thread guides
(11) Turn handwheel towards you until upper looper is in the
position illustrated. Thread looper eye.
(12) Lift presser foot, place thread underneath and lower
presser foot.
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Threading
1. Lower looper thread, red markings
Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the red
marking on the thread guide.
(1,2) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the red
guide.
(3,4) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(5) Thread guide.
(6) Thread tension dial.
(7,8,9,10,11) Thread guides
(12) Using the looper threader, pass the thread from the right
hand side through to the left hand-side of the machine. Turn
the handwheel towards you until the lower looper is in the
left-most position. Insert the thread into the slit on the lower
looper.
(13) Using the looper threader, pull the thread through to the
right side again. Turn the handwheel towards you until the
lower looper is in the right-most position, and thread the
looper eye so that the thread lies in the long groove on the
lower looper.
(14) Take the thread over the upper looper. Raise the presser
foot, place the thread under it and then lower the presser
foot.
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Threading
3. Right-hand wheel needle, green markings
Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the green
marking on the thread guide.
(1,2) Bring thread up from spool and take it through the
green guides.
(3,4) Make S-loop around the thread guide bar.
(5) Thread tension dial.
(6,7,8) Thread guides.
(9) Thread guide on needle clamp.
(10) Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are
fully raised. Thread the right-hand needle.
(11) Raise the presser foot, place thread underneath it. Lower
presser foot.
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Threading
4. Left-hand needle, yellow markings
Place the spool on the spool holder pin underneath the
yellow marking on the thread guide.
(1) Bring the thread up from the spool and take it through the
yellow guide.
(2,3) Make S-loop around thread guide bar.
(4) Thread tension dial.
(5,6,7) Thread guides
(8) Thread guide on needle clamp
(9) Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are
fully raised. Thread the left-hand needle.
(10) Raise the presser foot, place the thread underneath it.
Lower presser foot.
When threading is complete, lower the upper knife and close
the looper cover and cloth plate.
Note: If the lower looper has to be re-threaded, cut both
needle threads off at the needle and removes surplus thread
from below. Thread the looper and then re-thread the
needles.
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Threading, Trial sewing
3 thread overlock (right needle)
For a 3-5 mm wide 3 thread overlock stitch, remove the
left-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the right-
hand needle. (See Page 11-13).
3 thread overlock (left needle)
For a 5-7 mm wide 3 thread overlock stitch, remove the
right-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the left-
hand needle. (See Page 11,12,14).
Sewing test
After threading make a trial run. Always use a double layer
of fabric in order to be able to check the stitch formation and
thread tension properly.
• Set upper and lower looper tension dials to 4 and needle
tension dials to 4.
• Upper knife in cutting position.
• Presser foot lowered.
• Raise the front of the presser foot slightly with your
thumb and position the fabric under the foot just up to
the knife. Release the presser foot Sew.
• At the end of the seam continue sewing a 5-6 cm (2-2
½”) long thread chain (A).
• Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain
over the thread cutter on the presser foot shank (B).
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Thread tension
Check your trial run
1. Upper looper thread (blue)
2. Lower looper thread (red)
3. Right-hand needle thread (green)
4. Left-hand needle thread (yellow)
Perfect stitch formation is when both looper threads meet at the
fabric edge. The needle threads form straight stitches for a
stretchy and durable seam.
Thread tension
Thread tension should be properly adjusted to suit the various types
of work.
The ideal tension setting for most fabrics and threads is between 3
and 5. However this can vary quite considerably when special threads
such as filament, wooly nylon, buttonhole twist (cordonnet), perle
yarn or decorative threads are used.
Infinitely variable adjustments can be made from 1-9. Turn to the left
for less tension. Turn to the right for more tension.
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Thread tension
Adjusting the thread tension
Turn tension dials by only half or one number then test
sew again and check the results.
The loops are formed on the underside;
Tighten the upper lower thread tension, blue or loosen
the lower looper tension, red (A).
The loops are formed on the upper side;
Tighten the lower looper thread tension, red or loosen
the lower looper tension, blue (B).
The right-hand needle thread forms loops on the
underside;
Tighten the right-hand needle thread tension, green (C).
The left-hand needle thread forms loops on the
underside;
Tighten the left-hand needle thread tension, yellow (D).
The edge of the fabric curls up; tension of both looper
threads is too tight;
Loosen upper and lower looper thread tension, blue and
red (E).
The fabric puckers during sewing;
Loosen the right or left-hand needle thread tension,
green or yellow (F).
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Adjustments and settings
Stitch length
004:
• Turn power switch to “O”.
• Open cloth plate, loosen knob and adjust to desired
length. Tighten knob and close cloth plate.
004D:
• Turn dial to stitch length desired can be adjusted
while sewing.
The stitch length is infinitely variable from 1-4 mm. Most
overlock work is done with a basic setting of 2-3 mm.
Cutting width
• Turn power switch to “0”.
• Raise the upper knife.
• Open the cloth plate.
• Turn cutting width adjustments knob in the direction
desired.
• Lower upper knife.
• Close cloth plate.
The position of the lower knife determines the width of
the seam.
1=3.5 mm seam width
2=4.5 mm seam width
3=5.7 mm seam width
Reduce the cutting width if the edges of fine fabrics curl up
when being sewn. Adjust the cutting knob to a higher
number (A).
Increase the cutting width knob to a higher number (B).
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Adjustments and settings
Differential feed
There are two feed dogs one front (A) and one rear
(B).
The two feed dogs move independently and the
distance each feed dog travels during one complete
movement can be adjusted.
The differential feed prevents fluting or waving in
knitted or stretch fabrics and movements between the
layers of fabric.
It also ensures pucker-free seams in smooth fabrics
such as nylon or closely woven fabric (C).
Perfectly flat seams in knits or stretch fabrics.
The distance traveled by the front feed dog should be
greater than that of the rear feed dog. The front feed
dog, therefore, feeds an amount of fabric, which the
rear feed dog, can take up behind the needle without
stretching the fabric.
Pucker-free seams in nylon or closely woven
fabrics.
The distance traveled by the rear feed dog should be
greater than that of the front feed dog. The front feed
dog, therefore, holds the fabric back so that the rear
feed dog can take it up behind the needle without any
puckering (D).
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